k OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. [Ekterld at Statio.nkes" Hall.] THE HISTORY AND TOPOGRAPHY OE THE COUNTIES OF CUMBERLAND AID WESTMORELAND, COMPRISING THEIR ANCIENT AND MODERN HISTORY, A GENERAL VIEW OF THEIR PHYSICAL CHARACTER, TRADE, COMMERCE, MANUFACTURES. AGRICULTURAL CONDITION, STATISTICS, Etc., Etc. BY WILLIAM WHELLAN. PONTEFRACT ; W. WHELLAN AND CO. LONDON : WHITTAKER & CO., AVE MAKIi LANE. MANCHESTER: GALT AND CO., DUCIE PLACE, EXCHANGE. MDCCCLS. 10 I '' y Digitized byjhe Internet Archive in 20ra%ith fuhding from UriWrsity of Tomnto http://www.archive.org/details/historytopograOOwhel PREFACE In the present Work the object of tlie Publishers has been to supply to the people of Cumberland and Westmoreland a complete and modern history of the two Comities. The only histories of Cimiberland and Westmoreland which enjoyed any degree of reputation are those of Nicolson and Burn, and Hutchinson — a reputation by no means undeserved: but they are now old books; a long cliapter of the manorial history has passed over since they were published ; many things are changed, and many are changing; hence the want of a New History of Cumberland and Westmoreland, iind the present attempt to supply that want. The mtroductory portion of the Work consists of a General History of the Counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, from the eai'liest period, by Thomas Wright, Esq., M.A.,' F.S.A., one of the most distinguished archaeologists of our age and country, author of " The Celt, the Roman, and the Saxon," and numerous other works. In the composition of this part of the volume, Mr. Wright has endeavom'ed to treat the History and Antiquities of the two Counties in such a manner us to show what light the discoveries of the ai-chsologist can throw upon the condition of this part of England, dm-ing centmies which present little more than a blank in our ordinary annals. This is followed by an article on the Geology of Cumberland and Westmoreland, with particular reference to the District of the English Lakes, from the pen of the Rev. J. G. Gumming, M.A., F.G.S., Professor of Geology iu the Queen's College, Birmingham. From Mr. Ciunming's repeated sm-veys of these districts, and his intimate knowledge of their various strata, he has been able to make many interesting additions to this department of science, and the pubHshers have no doubt that the Work, with its accompanying Geological Map, will contain a more accm'ate account of the Geology of the two Counties than any that has as yet issued from the press. The eminent authoress, Hai'riet Mai-tineau, has also contributed an article on the Lake District, which gives an interestmg description of the past and present state of that " Switzerland in Miniature," its folk-lore, customs, and superstitions. The Tiipogi-aphy embraces a full account, uudcr tlieir respective AVards, of the City and Diocese of Carlisle, and all the baronies, manors, boroughs, towns, ports, parishes, chapelries, townships, villiiges, and hamlets, in the two Counties, clearly sliowing tlieir boundaries, area, rateable value, population, landowners, seats and pedigi-ees of the families of the nobility and gentry, succession of incumbents, nature and value of church livings, tithes and their commutation, description of churches, chapels, and public buildings, endowed and other schools, hospitals, charities, benevolent, literaiy, and scientific institutions, poor-law unions, courts of law, manufactures, markets and fairs, and a vaiiety of statistical and other information, extracted from MSS. in the British jMuseum, Parliamentary documents, and other authentic sources. Generally speaking, in the manorial history, the Author has taken Nicolson and Burn's accovick ; and Glanoventa, which appears to have been on the sea- coast, and has been placed at Ellenborough, but the e.\act site of it is very doubtful. The road we have been fol- lowing here joined another road, which appears to have run round by the coast to Luguballium. Jluncaster, or Mulcaster, almost at the southern extremity of tho coast of Cumberland, the name of which seems to pro- claim it a Roman station, appears to have stood on this road ; as did Moresby, near Whitehaven, which is iden- tified by inscriptions found on the site with the Morhium of the Notitia, a place occupied by the cavalry called equites cataphractarii. We have the remains of other stations in Papcastle, near Cockermouth, and near Maryport, which may have been respectively the Arbeia of the Notitia, which was occupied by a detach- ment of Barcarii Tigrkienses, and the Glanoventa of the Itinerary. From the latter place one road pro- ceeded along the coast to the termiuation of the Wall of Hadrian at Bowness, while another turued ofl" in a north-easterly direction to the important town and citadel which occupied the site of what is now called Old Carlisle and is generally behaved to be the Olenacum of the Notitia, and was continued thence to Luguballium. It is from the important record just mentioned, the Notitia Imperii, composed just before the fall of the Roman power in Britain — for it is ascribed to about the year 410 — that we obtain a list of the towns and stations along Hadrian's Wall, which crossed the island at what has been termed the lower isthmus, resting one end upon the western coast at Bowness, and the other on the Tyne at the weU-known spot named from it Wallsend.' The eastern portion of this marvellous barrier, running over wild and desolate districts, where it has been little disturbed by the process of cultiva- tion, presents far more imposing remains than the western part, and every station and post mentioned in the Notitia is identified without any difficulty. Im- mediately after crossing the border of Cumberland from Northumberland, we meet with one of the most remarkable and interesting of these ruins of the mural towns, at a place now called Birdoswald. Besides con- siderable remains of the walls of this place, which still remain standing' between thirty and forty inscribed stones have been found within the area, of which no less than seventeen commemorate the first cohort of the Daciaus. As we know from the Notitia that these Dacians held the station of Amboglanna on the wall, which must have been somewhere in this neighbour- hood, we can have no hesitation in identifying that station with Birdoswald. After this place, however, it becomes very difficult to identify the stations, but Castlesteads, or, as it is also called, Cambeck Fort, appears to be sufficiently well established as the repre- sentative of the Petriana of the Notitia. Watch-cross, near Bleatarn, is supposed to be the site of Aballaba, 1 Tho Homan Wall, an Historical and Topographical Description of the Barrier of the Lower Isthmus, extending from tho Tyiic to the Solway, deduced from numerous personal surveys, I'y tho iiev. John Collingwood Bruce, bvo, London, Id'j'i. OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. which was garrisoned by a detachment of Moors. There was evidently another station at Stanwix, and another at Burgh-upon-Sands, which, perhaps, repre- sent the Cougavata and Axelodunum of the Notitia, which were occupied respectively by the second cohort of the Lergi and by the first cohort of Spaniards. The remains of other stations occur at Drumburgh and at Bowness, but whether either of these be the Ga- broseutum or the Tunnocelum of the Kotitia is very uncertain. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Cumbrian portion of the wall are remains of other stations and towns, some of which were evidently places of importance. Such are Bewcastle, to the north of the wall ; Whitley Castle, a little to the south of it and just within the borders of Northumberland ; Old Town ; Brampton ; and Nethevby. Whitley Cas- tlu and Brampton are supposed to have been the Alioua and Bremetenracum of the Notitia, and Neth- erby the Castra Exploratorum of the Itinerary of Anto- ninus. Others, however, believe that the Aliona and Bremetenracum of the Notitia are identical with the Alone and Bremetonacis of the Itinerary ; and the present rector of Bewcastle, Rev. J. Maughan, a diligent investigator of the antiquities of his neigh- bourhood, assuming this, suggests that Bewcastle itself is the Galava of Antoninus, and Castletou, in Eoxburghshire, the station of Glanoventa.^ This must be taken as a very imperfect list of the Roman towns and stations in the district represented by the modern counties of Cumberland and Westmore- land. It contains, in fact, only the places which lay upon two of the gi-eat lines of roads which entered into the official itineraries, and the principal mili- tary posts existing at the time of the Notitia. This last-mentioned record enumerates in this part of the island another place, bearing the name of Virosidum, which is believed to have stood on the coast of Cum- berland. That curious relic of antiquity known as the Eudge Cup, on which were inscribed the names of 1 A Memoii- on the Eoraaa Station and Eunio Cross at Bewcastle. By Hie Rev. Jolin Maughau. 8vo, Carlisle, lHa7. Of course this suggestion would carry the tenth Iter of Antoninus, in which these places occur, quite out of the Une which is usually given to it, and identify it with the Roman road called the Maiden Way. Mr. Maughan adduces in favoiu- of his suggestion the rather curious eircomstance that tlie valley in which Bewcastle stands has tUl very recently been known by the name of Wali/evva, which he supposes to be a corruption of Galava. Nothing, however, is more dangerous than to found arguments upon similarity of sounds in names Uke these, and I hesitate in changing the direction hitherto given to this Iter until we have some more decisive evidence on one side or on the other. Horsley has conjectured, on what grounds I am quite ignorant, unless it be because Bewcastle would signify in Anglo- Saxon" the bee castle," that that place was called by the Romans A}>iatorium. several stations on this part of the wall, enumerates two, Mais aud Banna, which are not mentioned else- where. Mais has been conjectured, however, to be the Magna of the Notitia (Carvoran), and Horsley believed Banna to be Bcwcastle." Of the Roman roads which traversed this part of Biitain, the principal line appears to have been that of the second and fifth Iters of Antoninus, which formed a branch of the great northern road known to the Anglo-Saxons as the Watling-street, which it left at Eburacum (York), proceeding thence to Carlisle, and so on to the stations on the borders of the Caledonians. This road is in some parts very distinct, and has been found to be no less than twenty-one feet broad. The other line of road described by the compiler of the Itin- erary, which occupies the tenth Iter, has hitherto been considered as proceeding from Lancashire through the lake district to the sea, and there can be no doubt that a road did run in that direction, and that there are remains of stations, as at Kendal, Ambleside, and Keswick, which may answer to those in the Itinerary, while traces of cross roads are met with in all parts of that district. Any person who has travelled between Ambleside and Keswick must have been struck by the bold appearance, as it is seen at a distance, of the Roman ro:;d up the steep side of the mountain called from it High-street. Another very remarkable Roman road left the great road first men- tioned in our enumeration, at Brovonacee, or Kirby Thore, passed Hadrian's Wall at Amboglanna, or Birdoswald, and directed its course by the Roman stations at Bewcastle and Castletou to the north, and received from the Anglo-Saxons the perhaps mythic name of the Maiden Way. The course of this road to the north of the wall has been carefully aud ably investigated by the Rev. John Maughan, of Bewcastle, who commu- nicated an excellent survey of it to the Ai'cliceological Institute.^ A Roman road ran, as I have already stated, - A Roman altar, found at Birdoswald, was dedicated to the god Silvanas, by the hunters of Banna ( deo saxcto biivaxo vesatobes 3ANNE s. s.) SO that Banna probably stood in that neighbourhood, j aud Horsley's conjecture may be right. It is not unlikely that this 'Eudge Cup mentioned above belonged to these same "hunters of Banna," perhaps a society or club formed from the stations of Mais ( Magna), Aballaba, Axelodunum,Amboglanna,and Banna,ihe names inscribed in tliis order upon it, of which Baima ( if it were Bewcastle ) would be the most advanced station towards the wild hunting district, and Amboglanna (Birdoswald) the one of these stations nearest to it, and of most importance, where we might expect to find such an altar erected by them. 3 Printed in the Archaeological Journal, Vol. XI. The meaning of the name Maiden Way has been the subject of all sorts of conjectures among writers who will have it" to be a corruption from the Celtic: aud I take the opportunity of deprecating the practice which has pre- vailed so much of rejecting the plain meaning of English names in order to substitute that of some far-fetched derivation, from supposed HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES along the coast, au J another accompanied the wall across the island. Many roads of less importance may be traced branching of from diiferent stations on these larger lines, which must have formed a complete net-work over this pai't of the island. As might be supposed from this description of the bolder monuments of Roman occupation, this district has furnished abundance of antiquities of every descrip- tion. The roads are, as in other parts, accompanied with earthworks of various forms, which have served as camps, or as inclosures of residences, or for other pur- poses, many of which, without much apparent reason, have been pronounced to be British. The mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland are celebrated for the number of those monuments of a remote antiquity, which have been commonly called Druidical circles, but the real origin and date of which are absolutely unknown. A solitary cromlech is also scattered here and there over the hills, and sepulchral tumuli, or barrows, are abundant almost everywhere. To return from the monuments of uncertain date to those with the history of which we are better acquainted, the sites of Roman towns and stations, which in this part of the country are usually distin- guished by the name of Bin-ens, no doubt from the Saxon lurh, have furnished an extraordinary quantity of sculptures and inscribed stones. Upwards of a hun- dred and fifty of the latter are given by Lysous and Horsley as found in Cumberland, to which we might add many found since their time, and a considerable number have been found in Westmoreland. A large proportion of these consist of altars, dedicated either to the known gods of ancient Rome, or, more numerously, to local deities, generally of the localities, in Germany, Gaul, &c., from which the colonists of these towns in Britain came. Another very numerous class consists of sepul- chral monuments, commemorating sometimes the mili- tary— officers and soldiers — but more frequently their wives or children, and often presenting touching traits of domestic affection. Some of these inscribed stones are tablets, which have no doubt been placed on the walls of temples and other pubho buildings, declaring the reverence of the local authorities and people for the • Celtic or other tongue, of which they are pretended to he corruptions. The road of which we are now speakmg is tronslalfd into Latin in early Border records hy via piiellartim, and there is a story anions the peasantry of the district through which it runs, tliat it was made by women carrying the stones in their aprons. I liavc no doubt that this is the degraded representative of some early mythic legend of the Anglo-Saxons connected with this road and with Its name. We Itnow that it was the constant practice of the Saxons to give mythic names of this kind to monunienls of former times, which were extra- ordinary by their greatness or by some other characteristic, and of whicli they did not know the origin. We have examples in the names of the Watliug-sueet and the Irming street. reigning emperor, or stating bow much different detach- ments of the legionaries or auxiliaries had contributed towards the local public works. Of the altars given in Lysons as found in Cumberland, no less than thirty- two are dedicated to Jupiter, and a considerable num- ber to Mars. Among the local deities, those which occur most numerously are Belutucadrus and Cocidius. both of which are identified in the inscriptions with the Roman Mars; the worship of the former appears to have been brought into Cumberland by troops from the east established here. Both seem confined to the two coun- ties ; and the altars to Cocidius were dedicated severally by soldiers of the second, sixth, and twentieth legions, and by a cohort of Dacians, so that the worship of this deity also may have been bnjught from the east. Several altars are dedicated to the Sun and to Mithras, which also point to the east. Early in the last century, an inscription was found in the neighbourhood of Lanercost, dedicated ntmpha; brig — to the nymph of theBrigantes. Another altar, dedicated to the nymph of the Brigantes, is given by Gale as having been found in Britain ; but as these Roman altars are universally dedicated to foreign deities, I am inclined to think that the Brigantes here intended were one of the tribes of that name on the conti- nent, perhaps in Spain, and that these altars may have been dedicated by Spanish soldiers. Many of these in- scribed stones are of considerable historical importance; they give the names of emperors or of consuls, whose dates are known, as well as of officers commanding in the stations or districts, whose dates are less certain, and they add names to our list of the pro-praetors or governors of Britain. The sculpture of the monuments found in this part of Britain, though generally rather rude, is sometimes, when it appears to have belonged to public buildings, of a superior class. It would be in vain to attempt here to give any account of the numerous other classes of antiquities found upon the Roman sites of Cumberland and Westmoreland. Beyond the names of persons commemorated on these stones, and the light they and tlie other monuments of antiquity throw upon the condition of the country, the history of this district under the Romans is almost a blank. As the hostilities in this province for a long period were confined to the northern borders, the troops stationed here must have been in a constant state of movement and agitation, which increased as the attacks of what were now called the Picts of the North, and their allies the Gaelic Scots of Ireland, became more frequent and more formidable. The original population of the country must have been greatly diminished, not only by the ordinary causes which lead to the diminution of a conquered race under such circumstances, but [because OF CUMBERLAND AST) WESTMORELAND. the Romans were very unlikely to leave in such a posi- tiou a conquered race strong enough to rise and co-operate with foreign invaders. Moreover, we know that the process of extermination had commenced as early as the middle of the second century; for we learn from the contemporary writer Pausanius,' that under Anto- ninus Pius more than one-half of the tribe of the Brigantes was cut oif, for an act of turliuleut insubordination in making war on another British tribe, the Genuni. To these causes also we must add the continual drawing away of the British youth to serve as Roman au.xiliaries in foreign countries, while the population of other countries, especially from Germany, was as continually imported into Britain to recruit the Roman population. At the same time the language of the Romans, as in Gaul, gradually superseded the Celtic, whatever branch of it may have been spoken here, and after four hundred years of absolute foreign rule, in the fifth century, the ■whole physiognomy of the population of our island must have been entirely changed. Among the vast quantity of antiquities of every description belonging to the Roman period dug up in different parts of our island, not a letter or a scrap has been found which did not bespeak Romans or settlers under the Roman name — nothing which we can call British, in the usual sense given by antiquaries to that term. Writers of the later period of the Roman empire in the west state that the municipal towns in Britain were remarkable for their political turbulence, which is easily accounted for by their distance from the imperial court and by their insular position. Long before the supre- macy which Rome claimed over them had been abandoned, they had been in the habit of confederating together and electing emperors of their own. When at length Honorius, in the year 4 i 0, acltuowledged their freedom, by addressing letters to them in which he exhorted them to provide for their own safety, he only recommended to them a task which they had abeady shown themselves capable of performing; for, a very short time before, as ■we learn from the historian Zosimus, the cities of Britain had confederated together and repulsed a fonnidable invasion of the Saxons. These cities, in fact, were the military colonies founded by the Roman auxiliaries, who formed the sole soldiery, after the legions, whose espe- cial business it had been to hold the cities in obedience, wore withdrawn. It appears from the Notitia, a work which was compiled under the reign of this same Hon- orius, that of the three legions which had been stationed in the island during the whole Roman period, the sixth (from York) aud the twentieth (from Chester) had already been taken away, and that the second had been removed from Isca (Carleon) to Rutupia; (Richborough), where it was no doubt waiting for orders to embark. Yet, in this same record, we find the same cohort of Dacians (or nominally Dacians) at Amboglanna, the same Jloors at Aballaba, Lergi at Congavata, Spaniards at Axelodunum, Thracians at Gabrosentum, Morini at Glannibanta, and Nervii at Aliona and Virosidum, and the same troops in occupation of Olenacum, Breineten- racum, aud Tunnocelum, as had been settled there at the first colonisation of this district by the Romans. I have used the word nominally to intimate that these different bodies were not necessarily composed at that time of people from the countries after which they were officially named, because it had long become the custom to recruit them from any foreign country, and probably mostly from Germany, which was the great source from whence the Romans of the lower empire obtained their soldiers for the armies in the west. When they had once been left to confederate against the foreigner, the towns soon began to form rival confederacies among themselves, and later traditions, as well as the slight allusions of contemporaries, show them to us engaged in fierce domestic quarrels, in which one party or the other called in the assistance of those very Saxons, Picts, and Soots, whom their real interests required them to keep far away from their shores. We have no means of ascertaining what part the towns of the dis- trict, now represented by Cumberland and Westmoreland, acted in these troubles, but it is evident that it was exposed to an overwlielming invasion of foreigners, no doubt Picts from Scotland and Scots from L-eland, who overran the whole country, ruined everywhere the monu- ments of Roman civilisation, and overthrew the altars, not, as the book ascribed to Gildas pretends, of the ■ Christian churches, but of unmistakable Roman and other paganism. It is a curious circumstance, that at Plumpton Wall, believed to be the Roman Voreda, five altars were found in the year 1S13, bearing severally figures of Jupiter, Apollo, Mars, Mercury, and Venus, to whom they were no doubt to be dedicated ; but the}' were in an unfinished state, as jthough they had been in the process of making at the moment when the decisive eruption of the barbarians occurred. Of its destructive efTects, every Roman station that has been examined affords conclusive evidence. Thus, at the site near SI ai-y- port which is supposed to have been the Roman Glauo- venta, when the Senhouse family, the proprietors of the ground, caused it to be e.xcavated in 1706, "they found the arch of the gate beat violently down and broken ; and, on entering the great street, discovered evident marks of the houses having been more than once burnt to the HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES ground and rebuilt, an event not unlikely to have hap- pened on so exposed a frontier. The streets had been paved with broad flag-stoues, much worn by use, particu- larly the steps into a vaulted room, supposed to have been a temple. The houses had been roofed by Scotch slates, which, with the pegs that fastened them, lay confusedly iu the streets. Glass vessels, and even mirroi-s, were found : and coals had evidently been used in tlie fire-places. Foundations of buildings were round the fort on all sides, and coins and urns iu great num- bers. These, with the three roads known to have pointed towards the station, prove it to have been a large and populous town."' We know nothing of tlie condition of this district between the period at which these ravages took place and the seventh century. There are good reasons for believing that, contrary to the received chronology of the Anglo-Saxon chronicles, the Angles had established themselves iu the north of Britaiu before the invasions of the Saxons in the south, and they seem very soon to liave extended their influence across the island to the western coast. There is no apparent reason for doubting that they found a population there which was at least partly Celtic, perhaps foreign, and which, apparently weak in itself, seems to have been usually in alliance with the Britons, as they are termed, of the western lowlands of Scotland. Ecgfrid, king of the Northum- brian Angles, must have been master of Cumberland and Westmoreland before the year 684, when he sent a hostile expedition to Ireland. He gave the city of Luguballium, or, as it was called during the later Eoman period, Lugubalia, that is, the king's rights and revenues in it, to the church of Lindisfarne. In his rash expedition against the Picts in the year 635, when Ecgfrid perished in the disastrous battle of Nechtans- mere, or Drumuechtan, he left his queen at Lugubalia, iu a convent of nuns, which had been founded in that city, and of which the queen's sister was abbess. It was there that she was visited by St. Cuthbert, who was then Bishop of Lindisfai'ue, and therefore superior lord over the city. It is evident, from Bede's account of this ^'isit, that the citizens of Lugubalia still knew their town only by its old Roman name, and it is more than probable that they had continued from the Roman period to hold possession of it and defend it successfully against the attacks of the invaders, for they led him about it to point out to him with pride the beauty of their town walls and public buildings, especially glorying iu a fountain, or conduit, of marvellous workmanship, built by the ancient Romans. Bedo tells us that it was the Angles, J Ljaons, Cumberland, p. cxlij. his own countrymen, who had corrupted the Roman name into Luel, which appears to have been adopted also by the Celtic population of the county, who pre- fixed the name by which they were accustomed to designate the Roman fortresses, caei; or car ffrom the Roman castnimj, and hence was formed the uioderu name of Caerluel, or Carlisle. - For at least two centuries after this period, we have as little exact information relating to the history of this portion of the territory of the Brigantes as during the several centuries preceding it. Under the Anglo-Saxons, however, it had been divided into two parts, perhaps in consequence of their marking two successive advances in the tide of conquest, and these were known to the Anglo- Saxons by the distinctive appellations of Cumbraland, and Westmoringa-land, or, as the latter was subsequently written, West-mora-land, or West-mera-land. These words, which we meet with first in the Anglo-Saxon chronicle about the middle of the tenth century, had plain and simple meanings in the Anglo-Saxon langus^e, the first signifying the laud of valleys,' the second, according as we read it, Westmora, or Wesimera, the western land of moors or the w-estern land of lakes. It is hiu-dly necessary to say that this is the origin of the modern names of the two counties. In 873, according to the Anglo-Saxon chronicle, the Danish chieftain Halfdene established his winter quarters on the banks of the river Tyne, and over-ran the Xorthumbrian kingdom, carrying his ravages even into the territories of the Picts and of the Strathclyde Britons. In the year following, Halfdene distributed the lands of the Xorthumbrians among his own Danish followers, who proceeded at once to take possession of them, and, in the words of the authority just quoted, "they thence- forth continued ploughing and tilling them." It was a - The passage of Bede is so curious lliat it despn-es to be given here in the orif;iual language. — Igitur dum Ecgfridus rex ausu teme- raiio exercitum iu Pictos duoerat, . . . . \ir Domini Cuthbertos .... vcnit ad Lugabaliaiu civitatem, quoe x)opulis Anglontm eorrupte Luel vocatur, ut allcqueretuv reginam, qute ibidem in monasterio suas sororis eventuni belli expectare disposuit. Postera autem die deduceutibus eum civibus ut vidcret mceuia civitatis fou- temque iu ea miro quomlam Romanoruni opere exstruoluin, repente turbatiis spiritu, ut stabat super baculum, etc. Bedie J'tia 8. Culh- berli, cap. xxvii. 3 The derivation of Westmoreland can hardly be disputed : and that of Cumberland seems equally natural. Both arc correctly de- scriptive of the couutiics to which they apply. Antiquaries have supposed, however, that the latter country received its name from ii.'! early inhabitants, who had been called Ciimbri, which a little imagi- nation idcntilied with Cymry, although I cannot think that there is any reason for believing that the original British populatiou of tliis district were of the Cymric race. I am not aware that the Latin word Cumbri, for the inhabitants of Cumberiand, is found at any period earlier ihun that at which it may be merely a Latinized form of the Anglo-Saxon name. OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. memorable year for its influence on the future fate of our country, for, according to the same chronicle, it was that in which Rollo esttblished in NorraauJy the dynasty which was to pro^luco William the Conqueror. Tlie Scottish chroniclers of a later period, anxious to establish a supposed claim of the Scottish kings to the border counties, invented apparently, a history of it during the period following this Danish conquest, no part of which is deserving of any credit, while its more prominent incidents are evidently absurd. It is pretended that Gregory, a king -whose accession to the Scottish throne these chroniclers place in 87 G — the same in which Halfdeue completed his conquest — im- mediately assisted " the Britons " in driving the Danes out of the kingdom of Northumbria ; that the Britons subsequently quarrelled with their allies, invaded Scot- land, and experienced a disastrous defeat ; and that the result of this was that these Britons agreed to a peace, by which they ceded Cumberland and Westmoreland to the Scots, and, withdrawing entirely from those counties, retired into Wales. Gregory, we are told, held an as- sembly of lois nobles at Cai-lisle about the year 880. Cumberland remaining, according to this account, in the possession of the Scots, their king, Constautine, in 916, granted it to Eugenius, the presumptive heir to the throne, and ordered that thenceforward the earldom of Cumberland should always be the app.anage of the heir apparent of Scotland. After the celebrated battle of Brunanburgh, King Athelstan took possession of Cumberland and Westmoreland, but his successor Edmund restored it to the King of Scotland, and it was agreed by treaty, that the heir apparent of Scot- land should possess Cumberland as before, on condition of performing homage for it to the King of England. It is added that soon after this the Cumbrians rebelled, and chose a man named Dunmaile for their Idug, upon which, in the year 945, King Edmund led an army thither, laid waste and conquered the country, and, having deprived the two sons of Dunmaile of their eyes, restored Cumberland to King Malcolm by a new treaty of alliance. We have more substantial grounds for believing that this part of the island remained in the possession of the Danes until the reign of Edward the Elder, to whom, according to the English chroniclers, it submitted aud remained subject to the Anglo-Saxon crown under his successor Athelstan. In 945, the Danes of Cumberland appear to have rebelled, and, according to the Anglo- Saxon chronicle. King Edmund, who had conquered Northumberland in the preceding year, " ravaged all Cumberland, and granted it all to Malcolm, king of the Scots, on the condition that he should be his ally as well by sea as by land." But the Danes of the north appear to have continued more or less in a state of tur- bulent independence during the lemainder of the tenth century. In 966, as we learn from the Anglo-Saxon chronicle, they ravaged Westmoreland under a chief named Thored, the son of G unner. According to another historian of good authority, Heni-y of Huntingdon, the Danes, whose chief strength at this time lay in Cumber- land, became again troublesome, aud provoked King Ethelred to such a degree, that he marched into that county in great anger, " and ravaged it well-nigh all." He seems to have followed the old policy of giving Cumberland in the hght of what at a later period would be called a fief, to a Scottish prince, Malcolm, son of King Kenneth, in order that the Scots might have an interest in defending the northern frontier against the Danish invasions. We are told that this same iJalcolm, after he had succeeded to the throne of Scotland, defeated, at Burgh-upon-Sands, Uchtred, earl of Northumberland, who had invaded Cumberland in combination with the Danes, probably from Ireland. During the whole period of the Danish kings of England, Cumberland appears to have remained more or less as a dependency of Scot- laud, but after the accession of Edward the Confessor, the Anglo-Saxon crown asserted its superior right, and Edward gave it, with the other northern counties, in 1053, to the well-known Siward, earl of Northumberland. The Scots, however, had regained possession of Cum- berland at the beginning of the reign of Yv'illiam the Conqueror, and held it in the year 1070, when a war broke out between the two countries, iu the sequel of which it was conquered from the Scots, and the earldom was given to Eanulph de Meschines, the ancestor of the earls of Chester. William took the earldom of Cum- beriand into his own hands in 1072, and gave llanulph the earldom of Chester in exchange for it. The county of Cumberland has preserved a vei^ interesting class of monuments of Anglo-Saxon times in its ancient crosses, inscribed usually in Anglo-Saxon runes. The earliest of these is preserved in the church- yard of Beckermet, two mUes from Egremont. It is, in its present sfcite, a cyhndrical column, bevelled to a square near the top, and on one of the bevels may be traced an inscription in runes, like all these early inscriptions, in verse, and commemorating, as it has been read and translated by the Rev. Daniel H. Haigh, of Erdiugtou,^ Tuda, bishop of the Northumbrians, who perished iu the terrible pestilence which ravaged the whole island in the year 664. The inscription mentions 1 Iq a pnpe^ ou " The Saxon Cross at Bewcastle," published in the transactions of the Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle-npon- Tynf. HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES the pestileuce, and is doubl}' valuable as identifying Beckermet as the site, hitherto unknown, of the early monastery of PaegnuliBch, where Bede says that Bishop TuJa was buried '• honourably." A cross of very similar character, but without inscription, is preserved in the churchyard of the neighbouring parish of Gosforth. A better known monument of this description, of the same antiquity, and more important for its size, the object of its inscription, and its profuse sculpture, is preserved, though much mutilated, at Bewcastle. The Bewcastle inscription has been differently read and interpreted by Mr. Haigh and Mr. Maughan ;' according to both, it commemorates Alcfrid, king of Northumberland, who died, like Tuda, in the year of the great plague, G64. Other crosses, of very early character, are found at iMun- caster, Dearhara, Rockliffe, and Irton. In the church of Bridekirk, near Cockermouth, there is a Saxon font, remarkable for its profuse and rather highly finished sculpture, among which we perceive a figure, not ill executed, of the sculptor himself at his work. His name is given in a runic inscription, which is read without difficulty as follows : Eicard he me iwrocte. And to dis merth gemr me brocte; Wlrcli nwy lie interpreted, " Richard he me wrought, and to this beauty carefully me brought." From the language, it is probable that this font belongs to the first half of the twelfth century. While on this subject, it is but right to state that the most remarkable of all the crosses with runic inscriptions yet discovered in this island is preserved close upon the limits of Cumberland, on the other side of the Scottish border, at Euthwell in Dumfriesshire, and is said to have formerly stood at a place in that neighbourhood called Priestwoodside, so that it may fairly be considered as belonging to this class of Cumbrian antiquities. The Piuthwell runic inscription has been long known, and has puzzled many of the northern antiquaries ; it was first properly ex- plained by Mr. Kemble, who found that it consisted of fragments of a poem iu the Northumbrian dialect of Anglo-Saxon on the Holy Cross, a poem which, curi- ously enough, is still preserved in manuscript in the West-Saxon dialect. There is another class of local antiquities which mark the passage of different races over the soil — the names of places and the dialect of the modern inhabitants. Generally speaking, the first rude inhabitants of a country may be supposed to have given distinctive names only to the bolder landmarks, such as mouu- ' A Memoir on the Roman stotion and Kunic cross nt Bewcastle, by the I!ev. John Maughan. 8vo. 1807. tains and rivers, and the more striking natural features, and such alone are those in England which still bear evidence of a Celtic derivation. AVhen the Romans settled here they appear to have found nothing which answered to their notions of towns, and they, therefore, gave their own names to the towns and stations which they established here. Some confusion has arisen on the subject of the names of the Roman towns in Britain, from the circumstance that each was founded by a detachment of the troops in the service of Rome, and that these, derived often from widely different countries, imported hither names of towns or villages in the country from which they came, just as the English colonists of North America have, at a later period, planted there the names of places which were familiar to them in their ancient homes. Hence we find names of places in this island, under the Romans, which recur in the ancient geography of Gaul, Spain, and other countries. The Teutonic invaders were peoples not accustomed to towns, and when they began to settle they shared the land among themselves, and seem to have accepted as they found them the towns which had not been destroyed in the fury of invasion. The towns which thus remained no doubt retained the names by which they were known under the Romans, whatever way have been the origin of them ; and we still trace them in most of the modern names of the same places with such modifications as might naturally he expected. But the Angle and Saxon settlers, bringing with them ■a language of their own, which was entirely different from that which existed amongst the peasantry who preceded them, gave names taken from their ow^n language to each allotment of land, to the family resi- dences they built on them, to the farms and inclosures, and to all the minor objects, while they almost naturally took the names of the greater and more striking features of the country, such as the mountains and rivers, from the older inhabitants. This is exactly the case in the English colonies in North America, and was the origin of the modern nomenclature of local names iu Old England also. It seems to be generally agreed by those who have most carefully investigated the subject, that the number of names taken from the Celtic, found in Cumberland and Westmoreland, is comparatively small. The Roman towns in these two counties seem to have been almost all destroyed iu the earlier in- vasions, and Carlisle is the only one of them of which the name exists, though almost concealed, in that by which it is still known. The great mass of the local names are here, as in other parts of England, undoubtedly Anglo-Saxon. But still we trace among them a mixture of names, presenting peculiarities of form, which are not OF CUMBERLAND AND 'NVESTMORELANI). found in tlie southern parts of England, and which seems to indicate tlie presence of other settlers. Some of these we can hurdi}- doubt wore introduced bj the Danish invaders. These, and some other peculiarities found here and in other parts of England, liaTe been made the ground- work for theories relating to the influence upon our country of the Danish and Scandinavian invasions, which I believe arc carried ver}' much too far, in conse- quence of generalising rashly individual facts which have often been misunderstood and e.\aggerated, and upon assumed facts which are really nothing but mis- takes.' The exaggeration of this theory of the influence of the Xorthmeu, as far as names and language are con- cerned, rests upon one great ground of fallacy, which may be explained by an illustration. A few years ago, a very talented literary contemporary amused himself and bis readers by translating some of the best of Moore's melodies into Latin, and Greek, and French, and then presenting these as the originals from which Moore copied ; and at least one of our respectable journals /took the matter seriously, and believed that the Irish bard had been convicted of discreditable pla- giarism. In this same manner, though not intention- ally, the supporters of the Danish theory just alluded to translate the Anglo-Saxon names into Danish and Norse, and then they turn round and compare them, cot as they should at the least do, with the language of the Anglos, but with the Saxon of Wessex, which was no doubt the least like the Danish, or Norse, of any of the Teutonic dialects imported into this kingdom. We are to a certain degree acquainted with the peculiarities of form of the early Northumbrian dialect, but we know very little comparatively of its peculiarity in words, except that we have no right for assuming that any common words in the Danish, or in the other languages of the North, may not have been found in it in its coiTcspoudiug form, and the general similarity in the 1 This theory of the exclusive influence of the Danish invasions was first brought surikingly before public attention in the work of Professor Worsaae, of Copenhagen, which was translated into Enghsh, under the title of " An Account of the Danes and Norwe- gians in England, Scotland, and Ireland," London, ]8.j2. I cannot help thiniing that there is rather too strong a tincture of national partiality in tlie spirit of Professor Worsaae's researches. His prin- ciples have been taken up with regard to Cumberland and Westmore- land, and argued both ingeniously and cleverly, by Mr. Eobert Ferguson, in a little volume, entitled " The Northmen in Cumber- land and Westmoreland," 12mo. London and Carlisle, IS.'jG. But, like most such speculative theories, it is founded far too much upon lounds and resemblances of words, which are in many cases merely apparent, and in some are nothing better than puns. To find in the name of the village of Kirkby Thore, a proof of the worship of the god Thor there by the Danes, or in that of Woodriggs, the trace of "a sacred grove," is atleabi carrying this description of philological investigation upon very imsafe grounds. languages, though acknowledged as a fact, is over- looked as an argument. Ift this way, a very large pro- portion of the names of places heaped together to sup- port this theory, have, as is not denied, their repre- sentatives in the Anglo-Saxon dialects, and are really only Danish and Norse when they are translated into those languages. Thus, I see no reason wliy strand in composition should be considered rather to represent the Norse strand, than the Anglo-Saxon word which is ! literally identical with it ; or why the Norse bekr should be considered as the origin of the word heck, applied to a brook in the modern dialects of the north of England, rather than the Anglo-Saxon bee. It is a common case in the local dialects of the present day, that of two words equivalent, or nearly equivalent, one is more commonly in use in one locality, and the other word in another, just as beck in the north of England holds the place of brook in the south ; and this no doubt was similarly the case in the Anglo-Saxon dialects of old. For instance, to take one of the words which has been most frequently quoted — it appears that by, or bye, was, in Anglo-Saxon, used in the same sense as ham, though it is of rare occurrence in the dialects of the south. Now, it is well known that, although ham in the terminations of places is not uncommon in the northern parts of England, yet those ending in by, which are very rare in the south, are much more prevalent. We should naturally take this as evidence that the Northern Angles were accustomed to use by in preference for what the Saxons called a, ham. But it is taken for granted, I think too hastily, that all names ending in by are of Danish origin, and that they are marks of the settlement in that locality of the Danes, although in perhaps the majority of cases the other part of the name is clearly Anglo-Saxon.' At the same time there can be little doubt that the- northern invaders have left traces of their presence in this island in some names of places, and nowhere more than in Cumberland and Westmoreland. The fells, the fords (in many cases), and the thwaitcs, seem certainly to remind us of the fjeld, the _fiord, and the thvet, of Norway : and there are other curious resemblances of 2 It is curious, that of two places the names of which are perfectly identical, and have been given, no doubt, from similar circumstances, the southern one in Anglo-Saxon, deora-hj (now Derby), has the termination assumed to be Danish, and the nortliem one, deora-hum ( Durham), has the more usual Anglo-Saxon termination. It is true that Derby was one of the midland towns held by the Danes, and that it was also called in Anglo Saxon, North-weonhige; but it is by no means a solitary instance of an Anglo-Saxon place having pos- sessed two names, one of which, and that the one least known in the previous period, superseded the other. Though Derby certainly existed before the Danish invasion, it is hardly known in history. Both words, however, dcora-by and deora-ham are strictly Anglo - Saxon in form. 10 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES names in the northern districts ; but still, it ought only to be accepted as a conjecture, that these were derived from late Norse settlers. The traces of the Danes are more endeut in names of places which are formed from the proper names of their Danish possessors, but these, I think, are in most cases combined with Anglo-Saxon adjuncts, which show us how easily the invaders, when they established themselves in our island, amalgamated with the people they found here. In fact, there was this great difference between the Danish invasions and the original Anglo-Saxon invasions, that the Danes were uot under the necessity of forming for themselves new towns and villager, or even new fa'-ms, and that they found all los;Uities beai-ing names which they understood, and which, therefore, they had no great reason for changing. The small proportion of really foreign words in the dialect of the north shows us further, that the influence of the language of the invaders at least was verv limited. The ravages committed in these parts during the long and melancholy period marked by the Danish invasions, were more destructive even than those of the age which intervened between the Eomans and the Saxons. The early monasteries and churches had all been destroyed, and of some of them we can harJ.ly discover the sites, while the population had been reduced to a state of wild barbarism. Even the city of Carlisle, which had escaped the ravages of Picts and Scots, had been utterly ruined by the Danes, probably during the con- quest of Northumbria by Halfdene in 875, and it could no longer boast, as it did in the seventh century, of its beautiful walks and public buildings. It is said to have remained in ruins about two hundred years, when William Kufus caused it to be rebuilt and fortified, in the year 1092. The few words in which the Anglo- Saxon chronicler recounts the events of this year, give us a striking idea of the state from which Cumber- land had not recovered at the close of the eleventh century: "This year," we are told, " King William ■went northward to Cnrlisle with a large army, and he repaired the city, and built the castle, and he drove out Dolfin, who had before governed that country ; and, having placed a gaiTison in the castle, he returned to the south and sent a great number of English peasantry thither, with their wives and cattle, that they might settle there and cultivate the land." This Dolfin was the son of the great Cospatric, earl of Northumberland, and he had perhaps already contributed towards the restoration of Carlisle. During the works of restoration in Carlisle Cathedral, in 1855, an inscription in Scan- dinavian runes was found on a stone in the west wall of the south transept, which >Yas easily distinguishable from the ordinary mason's marks on the stones around. Mr. Maughan, of Bewcastle, in a pamphlet already quoted, has given the following reading and interpreta- tion of this inscription : Tolfinn hraita at Ulphara this stain — Dolfin inscribed this stone in memory of Ulfar. AVe learn from some of the old historians, such as Roger de Hoveden and Simeon of Durham, that Dolfin, the son of Cospatric, had a son named, in their Latin, Ulfius, who was treacherously murdered at York, in 1064, by Tosti, son of Godwin, earl of Northumberland. As tins does not appear to present the characteristics of an older grave-stone used in buildiii:^', it. i- .inijcetured that Dolfin may have begun this pur ( f tli- ( ;itliodral of Carlisle. It must not be concealcil, liowcvcr, that a very good scholar in northern literature and antiquities. Dr. Charlton, of Newcastle-upon-Tyne, has given, in a paper read before the Society of Antiquaries of this town, a very different reading and interpretation, which he considers to have been a satirical allusion to the mason's marks, by some one of the masons who perhaps despised them. According to Dr. Charlton the inscrip- tion is, tolfohnar raila theksi runor a thisi stain — twelve idlers cut these marks on these stones. The connection of Dolfin with the building of Carlisle Cathedral may probably be considered as very doubtful ; though it is believed to have been commenced as a conven- tional church in the reign of the second AVilliam, and to have been completed under Henry I. In 1138, Athehvold, or Athelwolf, the king's confessor, under whose influence the building was completed, was made first bishop of Carlisle. At the same time, powerful chiefs, who were taught that their worlJly errors might he atoned for by expending their wealth in religious foundations, laboured to repair the ruin of two centuries. In 1088, Ranulph de Meschines, who held large estates in Cumberland, and was intimately connected with the town of Carlisle, founded the Benedictine nunnery of Wetheral, of which the gate-house is now almost the only relic. Immediately afterwards, the king, William Rufus, founded another religious house for the same order of nuns, at Ai-mathwaite, in the parish of Ainstaple. One of Ranulph 's sous, William de Meschines, lord of Egremont, cleared the site of the ancient house of Bene- dictine nuns at St. Bees, which had been founded by St. Bega, about the year 650,and had been entirely ruined by the Danes, and raised upon it a monastery of Benedictine monks, which became celebrated for the miracles pre- tended to be performed at the shrine of the saint. Little beyond the conventual church, which is now that of the parish, remains of the monastic buildings of St. Bees. The Prfemonstratensian abbey of Shap, the only monastic abbey of any importance iu Westmore- OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMOEELAND. 11 laud, the ruins of which are still seen iu a picturesque situation on the banks of the Lowther, was founded about the year 1119, by Thomas, one of the sons of Cospatric. In 11 38, the second Ranulph de Meschines, the elder brother of the founder of St. Bees, built the abbey of Calder, which is still represented by interesting ruins. A Scottish prince, who then held Cumberland in fee of the English crown, Henry, the sou of David I., founded, in 1130, the Cistercian abbey of Holme-Cul- tram, which boasted, among its eai-lier monks, of the celebrated magician, ilichael Scott. A lord of Gilslaud, nineteen years later, built the Augustinian priory of Lauercost, the church of which still remains a perfect and beautiful example of early English architecture. During the period at which these monastic establish- ment rose, there was also a great movement in building churches for parishes. Many of the parish churches throughout Cumberland and Westmoreland are still entirely or partially Norman, and some of them present interesting examples of what the continental architects call the Romanesque style of architecture. In Cumber- land, and especially as we approach the Scottish border or the coast, these earlier parish churches are so massive in their construction that they assume the character of small fortresses, and were evidently designed not only for rehgious worship, but for refuge during the inroads of the Scots ; and the old chroniclers have recorded more than one instance in which the invaders forced the churches, and committed the greatest barbarities in them. This combination of the church and the strong- hold is by no means confined to the earlier period, but is found in later buildings, as in the two veiy remark- able churches of Burgh-upou-Sands and Kewton-Arlosh, the latter of which is kno^vu to have been built early in the fourteenth century. The same activity in church- building seems to have continued through the twelfth, and far into the thirteenth centuries ; and both coun- tries present us with some good examples of early English, as well as of the Norman style of ecclesias- tical architecture. But good examples of decorated or perpendicular work are much rarer ; and from the thirteenth century till the time of the Ileformation, little appears to have been done to the churches of tliis part of England beyond necessary repairs. The Normans have left the marks of their footsteps here in their fortresses no less than iu their churches. That of Carlisle, built by William Rufus, whose massive keep still remains, may justly take the lead in the Norman castles of Cumberland. It is a curious cir- cumstance that the Normans seem to have experienced a similar difficulty in the pronunciation of the name of Carlisle as in that of Lincoln, which they pronounced and wrote Nicole ; and they softened the former name to Cardeol or Carduel. It was under this form that the composei-s of the romance-cycle of King Arthur intro- duced into their narratives a city which they somewhat arbitrarily adopted as a chief residence of their great British hero. " At Carduel " says the poetess Marie in the Lai de Lanval, " King Arthur, the brave and courtly, was dwelling, on account of the Scots and the Picts, who were committing great destruction iu the countiy." '■ Under the influence of these romances, not only the neighbourhood of Carlisle, but the whole of the two north-western counties, became in a manner classic ground. Arthur is represented as passing his days, in company with his knights of the round table and the ladies of his court, hunting in the forest of Inglewood, and an adventure, which forms the subject of an early English poem, is described as having occurred on the banks of the Tarn AVadling, a small lake in the parish of Hesket, where there are still the remains of a medieval castle. From this spot, according to the story, Arthur proceeded to sup, sleep, and hold his court ne.xt day, in his hall at Plumpton, the Voreda of the Romans ; another instance, out of many, of the way in which the ruins of ancient towns and stations became identified with mediaeval legend and fable.'- On the river Eden, in West- moreland, iu the wild district which formed the forest of Mallerstang, are seen the ruins of an early castle, which bears the name of Pendragon Castle, and which, accord- ing to the legend, was built by Uther Pendragon, the father of King Arthur, who made it his favourite resi- dence. It is said that he wished to strengthen it by turning the course of the Eden round its walls, but that he was foiled in the attempt, and his supposed failure is commemorated in a popular local proverbial rhyme, — ■ Let Uther Peudiagon do wliat be can. The river Eden will run as it ran. The local points out a spn jg near the castle as 1 A Cardiieill sejuma li reis, Artus, h prex e li ctu-teis. Pur les Eseo9 e pur les Pis, Qui destruiseient mult le pais. Poesies de Marie de France, ed. Eoquejhrl, vol I., p. 202. The reader must not suppose that this form of the name was confiuert to the romances. Jordan Fautosme, the Anglo-Norman metrical chronicler of the Scottish iuvasiou of Cumberland in 1173, always calls this city Cardiiil ; and a Latin distich on the death of King David, preserved in the Chronicle of Melrose, gives a similar orthography: — Postquam castellis regnum munivit et armis, Bex CarduiUm fcrtur obisse senex. 2 The old English poem of "The Anturs of Arther at the Tame wathelan," has been printed several times, but is given most correcdy in Robson's Three English Metrical Komauces, 4to., lSi2. (Cam- den Society Publication.) 12 HISTORY AND AXTIOUITIES Uther's favourite well, and tuUs how the Saxons threw poison in it, which was the cause of the death of the king and of a hundred of his knights. To return to a more historic period, one of the earliest of the Norman castles in Cumberland, was doubtless that which William de Meschines built at Egrcmont, the head scat of his branch of the fiimily, and of which nothing now remains but the gateway-tower. The castle at Bcwcastle was perhans also a Norman building, or at least as old as the Norman period; and there are remains of a keep apparently of the same period at Graystock. West- moreland is much more remarkable for its Norman castellated remains than Cumberland, probably because during the Norman period it formed virtually the English border. The massive Norman keep of Appleby Castle was imagined by some of its possessors to have been built by the Romans, and has been long known by the name of Ctesar's Tower. There was probably a Norman fortress at Kendal, the castle of which has been supposed to occupy the site of a Roman fort. The present remains belong to a later date. The massive Norman keep of Brougham Castle has also been taken by some of the old antiquaries for Roman work, — it also stands upon the Roman station. Brough, or Burgh-under-Stanemore, on the site of the Roman Vertera, has another massive Norman keep, which, like that at Appleby, is known by the name of Cajsar's Tower, and appears also to have been called formerly the Roman Tower. Two reasons, perhaps, would lead to the establishment of the earlier castles in these positions ; first, the Roman ruins would probably then furnish abundant materials for the builder, and, secondly, they lay along the route in the line of the old Roman road, by which the Scottish invaders would advance southwardly into England. The strength of these fortresses, indeed, and the energy of the Enghsh government under William and his two sons, seem to have restrained the turbulence of the Scots for a while. It is stated by some of the early chroniclers, that the Scottish kings had accepted a com- position from the Conqueror and from his successor for all the claims they pretended to the county of Cumberland, and it certainly remained in the undisputed possession of the English crown until the reign of Stephen. The troubles ■which quickly gathered round the throne of this monarch encouraged the King of Scotland, David I. to make an attempt to gain possession of the northern counties, which he invaded in the year llBff, and, under pre- tence of acting in the interests of Stephen's rival. Prince Ileni-y, who had been educated at his court, made him- self master of all the fortresses in Cumberland and Northumberland, with the exception of Bamborougb. It would appear from the accounts of the old chroniclers, which differ in some particulars, that Carlisle and New- castle-upon-Tyne were taken by surprise, or by treachery. Stephen immediately marched into the north, but his expedition ended ouly in a treaty, by which he ceded to the Scottish king the city of Carlisle and eventually the whole of Cumberlaud. David now established himself in that city, with a gamson of "ferocious Scots," as Ordericus Vitalis calls them, who struck terror into the whole of the north country by the barbarous atrocities they committed on the inhabitants, without distinction of age, or sex, or condition. The papal legate, who was then in England, was induced to interfere, and, having arrived at Carlisle on the 25th of September, 1138, he succeeded in obtaining from the Scots a promise to re- lease all their female prisoners, who were to be brought to Carlisle before ilartinmas for that purpose, and they engaged in future to abstain from the violation of churches and from the atrocities which had rendered their name hateful to the miserable population of tho northern districts. The year following, David was defeated in the celebrated battle of the Standard, and fled to Carlisle as a place of safety. The King of Eng- land was not David's only rival in his claim upon Cum- berland. In 1143, the two kings of England and Scotland being then at peace, Ranulph de Meschines, earl of Chester, who, like the Scottish monarch, was a partisan of Stephen's rival, laid claim to Cumberland as the inheritance of his family, in opposition to David's son Henry, who had been invested with the principality by his father; and the quarrel, we are told, was ouly arranged by an agreement, which must have arisen from the interference of Eug Stephen, that Ranulph should have, instead of Cumberland, the honour of Lancaster. In the year 1118, David conferred the honour of knighthood upon his nephew, afterwards Henry II. of England, at Carlisle ; and so formidable a display of military force was brought together on this occasion, that Stephen, in alarm, advanced with an army to York. The peace, however, was not broken this year; but, in the j'ear following, David, Henry, and Ranulph of Chester, met at Carlisle, and tlierc entered into a league against Stephen as usurper of the English crown. It is said that Prince Henry, on this occasion, swore solemnly to confirm to David and his heirs the territories he held in England in the event of his own accession to the throne of the latter country. Prince Henry of Scotland died at Carlisle in 115"2, and his father David followed him to the grave in the following year. Malcolm IV. the successor of David, held possession of Cumberland, as well as Northumberland, until after OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. 13 the accession of Henry II. but that monarch, instead of fulfilling his engagements to Malcolm's father, sum- moned him, in 1157, to restore those two counties to the Enghsh crown, and Malcolm, awed by Henry's power and greatness, complied, in return for which, Henry confirmed him in the county of Huntingdon. Malcolm seems stQl to have been unwilling to abandon his hold upon Cumberland, and the dispute led to a meeting between the two kings, at Carlisle, in the fol- lowmg year, but, how it was finally adjusted is not quite clear, though it is certain that the English crown recovered its rights. Malcolm, dying in 11G5, was succeeded on the throne of Scotland by William the Lion, who was watching eagerly for an excuse to recover his claims to Cumberland, when the opportunity was offered by the rebellion of the young King Henry against his father, in the year 1173. The account given of the Scottish invasion in this and the follow- ing years, by Jordan Fautosme, a coutemporaiy, who was present at many of the scenes he describes, and has left us a narrative in Anglo-Xorman verse, gives us not only a curious picture of the time, but it shows the importance of these great Norman fortresses as bulwarks of the crown, if they did not give very efficient protection to the population of the border.' According to the account of Fantosme, tht; King of Scotland at first entered into the war unwillingly, and yielded only to the earnest persuasion of his nobles, and to the temptation of regaining Xorthumberiand and Cumberland, which the young King Henry offered him as the price of bis alliance. Before he decided, he sent a messenger to Henry II. in Normandy, with a formal demand of what he called his inheritance in the north of England ; and it was only when this demand was in- dignantly rejected by the father, that William the Lion openly espoused the cause of the son. He then sent to the latter for his contingent of Flemings to assist him in taking the English castles, for it appears that the Scots were very unskilful in attacking fortresses, and even with the assistance of their Flemish allies, who were more accustomed to siege operations, their success was not very great. When, soon afterwards King William, at the siege of Wark, ordered a perriere, or engine for throwing large stones, to be employed against the castle, the first stone that was thrown from it went backwards instead of forwards, and struck down one of ■ The metrical narrative of Jordan Fantosme has been preserved in two manuscripts, and was printed in one of the volumes of tlie Surtees Society, under the title, " Chronicle of the War between the English and the Scots in 1173 and 1174, by Jordan Fantosme," 8to. 1840. King William's own knights.'^ At length, the Scottish king having assembled a formidable army, crossed the border and laid siege to Wark Castle, in Northumber- land, but, failing in his attempt upon the fortress, he abandoned it, and laid siege to Alnwick, with no better success. Greatly mortified at the failure of his first siege operations, William yielded to the councils of his chiefs, who urged him to march against (Jarlisle, which was well garrisoned and commanded by Robert de Yau-\- " Sir King of Scotland," they said, " of all your claims, Carlisle is the most difficult to obtain, and as the young king is willing to give you all, we advise you to go and conquer that first. If Robert de Vaus refuse to sur- render it, you must cause him to be thrown down from the ' great ancient tower.'' Lay siege to it, and make your whole army swear publicly, that they will not stir from it until they have seen the city on fire, the master wall broken down with your steel picka.ves, and Robert himself hung upon a lofty gallows. Then you will see Robert de Vaux falter ; you will, no doubt, find his pride fallen, and his resistance will not be very obsti- nate." Next day the Scottish army marched to Carlisle, and it had no sooner arrived before the walls, than a furious attack was made upon the gates ; but it was repulsed with heavy loss to the assailants. Soon after this, William the Liou received certain intelligence that an English army, commanded by Richard de Lucy and Reginald, earl of Cornwall, was rapidly advancing against him, and he immediately raised the siege of Carhsle, reerossed the border, and fell back upon Rox- burgh. The precipitancy with which the Scots fled was unnecessary, for Richard de Lucy was obliged to aban- don the north, and hurry back with his troops to East Anglia, to resist the Earl of Leicester and the other partizans of the young King Henry, who had organised a formidable insurrection there. The winter put a stop to active hostilities on the Scottish border, but in the spring, WilUam the Lion, having received a lai'ga reinforcement of Flemiugs, again invaded Northumberland, and attacked the castle of Wark, with fm-ious resolution, but its commander, Roger d'Estuteville, had had time to sti-engtheu liis ~ Oez, seiguurs, de la periere cument ele ala; La premiere piere qu'ele nnkes Inr geta. La piere de la funde a peine reversa, E un de lur chevaliers a terre agraventa, Ne fiissent ses armes e sun escu qu'il a, A nul de sun lignage ne revenist-U ja. Jordan Fantosme, p. 5S. ' De la grant tur antive ferez le devaler.— /orrfn;( Fantosme, p. 2S. Anllve is the Latin antlqua. The appUcation of tliis epithet to the keep or donjon of CarUsle Castle so early as the reign of Henry U. is curious. 14 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES garrison, and the resistance was so great, that the Scots were obliged to abandon their enterprise in disgrace. At this moment, however,- the Scottish king was joined by Roger de Mowbray, and other powerful barons of the young king's party, and liis forces were thus so much increased, that he resolved on a new attempt to reduce Carlisle. " Away goes King William," to translate the languiige of Fantosme, " Away goes King William, with his vast liost towards Carlisle, the fair, the strong garrisoned city. Lord Eoger de Mowbray and his chivalry, and Lord Adam de Porz, join themselves to William's border men. The Scottish carls lead the hated people, who never had any repugnance to perform fiendish actions. They continue their march, without any event to interrupt them, until they come in sight of Carlisle, full of beauty ; the sun glitters upon its walls and tui-rets. He who has a merry banner, gladly displays it ; and the trumpets sound in even' rank. You might hear the tumult of the terrified city. But, Lord Robert de Vau.^: gently exhorts the citizens not to be dismayed or to show any cowardice, for, as he assures them, if God keep his life safe and sound, he fears not all this bustle, nor the King of Albany. The king, on the other hand, summons Roger de Mowbray and Adam de Porz to council, with Walter de Berkeley, who was also one of his followers. ' Now behold, gentle knights, much noble display ; you cannot count the white nor the red, so numerous are the banners raised against the sun. Go to Robert de Vaux, and say, that I send him this message. Let him deliver the castle to me with- out a moment's delay ; he will have no succour from any man living, nor\vill the King of England ever more be his defender ; but if he refuse to surrender, you may tell him, upon your oaths, that he shall lose his head for it, and that his children shall die. I will not leave him a single friend or relation whom I will not ruin, unless be obey my commandment.' " The three barons proceeded to Carlisle on their mission, and they were introduced to Robert de Vaux. " He was clad in a hauberk, and was leaning on one of the battlements, (a un kernel puiant) and held in his hand a keen sword, with a sharp edge, which he handled caressingly." Robert, at first, received the king's messengers rather rudely, but he soon became more courteous, and lis- tened attentively, while the}' announced to him the Scottish king's demand. He replied, that he cared nothing for King William's threats, but that, as he held the castle for King Henry, and could only in ac- cordance with his duty deliver it to him by his order, he required a truce to give him the time to proceed to Normandy and consult with his liege lord. King William was angry at this reply, but he neither granted the truce required by Robert de Vaux, nor attempted an immediate assault upon Carlisle, but, while one part of his army apparently began to invest it, he marched southwards with the rest, made himself master of the Castle of Appleby, which had been left in the charge of Gospatric, the son of Orm, without any garrison to defend it, and attacked Brough, after placing in the former a garrison under three constables.'' Brough was better provided for defence than Appleby, for there were no less than six knights in it, with their followers. The castle was very soon attacked on all sides ; and the Flemings and the border men made a lierce assault upon the garrison, and the first day took from them the out- works, which the defenders had soon abandoned, and shut themselves up in the tower. Here they might have hold out for some time, but the Scots applied fire to the tower, and they were reduced to the alternative of surrendering or being burnt. " But a new knight had come to them that day. Now listen to his deeds and his great courage. When his companions had all surren- dered, he remained in the tower, and seized two shields, which he hung on the battlements, and held his ground there a long time, and threw at the Scots three sharp javelins, with each of which he struck a man dead. When these failed him, he takes up sharp stakes and hurled them at the Scots, and overthrew some of them, and ever keeps shouting, ' you shall all be vanquished soon.' Never by a single vassal was strife belter maintained. When the fire deprived him of the de- fence of the shields, he is not to blame if he then sur- rendered." The Castle of Brough was beaten down, with " the best part of the tower.''^ The loss of Ap- pleby and Brough caused great alarm to Robert de Vaux, in Carlisle, who sent a messenger in haste to Richard de Lucy, to press him anxiously for assistance. The entire defeat of the rebels in East Anglia, had left King Henry's two ministers, Richard de Lucy and Ranulph de Glanville, at liberty to provide for the safety of the north, and they returned Robert do Vaux an encouraging answer. On the very day of its arrival, the Scottish king returned to his camp before Carlisle, and rendered confident by his recent successes, and ignorant of the approach of Lucy and Glanville, * Quiint il ot Appelbi, le cliastei e la tor; K mettent lii tledfinz lur scrjnnz mnrchis, K ireis cuuestables el chaste! unt asis. Jordan Fantosme, p. 60. When he had Appleby, the castle and the tower; And tliey placed within it their border officers. And they have appointed three constables in the castle. ^ Ore est Dure abatuz e le mielz de la Im.— Jordan Fantosme, p. 08. OF CUMBEELAND AND WESTMOKELAND. 15 repeated his summons to the English garrison, but again without effect ; and he proceeded to attempt the castle of Prudhoe and Alnwick. The defeat and capture of William the Lion, before the latter place, put an end to the war. The possession of the northern counties, however, still continued to be a subject of dispute between the two crowns, and many years passed before it was finally adjusted. At the time of the coronation of Richard I. in ] 1 94, William the Lion tried to obtain Northumber- land by purchase, but failed. The demand for the resti- tution of Cumberland and Northumberland was formally repeated on the accession of King John, who, to gain time, evaded the demand, and William never obtained a direct reply ; but his successor, Alexander II, had no sooner ascended the throne, than the war between Iving John and his barons offered him an opportunity of pressing his demands in a more effective manner. William joined the party of the barons, invaded Cum- berland in 1^16, sacrilegiously plundered the abbey of Holme- Cultram, and laid siege to the city of Carlisle, ■which was delivered up to him by order of the barons ou the 8th of August in that year, but the castle still held for the King of England. Soon afterwards Louis of France, whom the barons had chosen for their king, recognized, with their consent, the claims of the Scottish crown to the throe northern counties, Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Northumberland. On the pacifica- tion which followed the accession of Henry III., Car- lisle was surrendered to the English, but it is pretended that the dominion of Cumberland was to remain with the King of Scotland, It is evident, however, that no such agreement with regard to the county was ever acted upon, and we find Alexander 11., in 1235 and again in 1237, icakiug pressing demands for the re- storation of the three northern counties, which he claimed as his inheritance. In the year last-mentioned, a conference on the subject was held at York, in the presence of the papal legate, by whose influence chiefly the King of Scotland was induced to give up bis claim, ' in consideration of a grant of lands in Cumberland or j ^Northumberland of the value of two hundred pounds, which he was to hold of the King of England, by the annual payment to the constable of the Castle of Car- lisle of a falcon. In 1242, the manors of Penrith, Langwathby, Great Salkeld, Sowerby, and Carlatton, were granted to the Scottish king in pursuance of tins agreement. Thus ended the Scottish claims to dominion in the northern counties of England. The massive Norman castle, as we have seen, contri- buted largely towards saving the northern counties from conquest during the invasions of William the Lion, who lost his time and wasted his armies in sitting down before a few fortresses, which, from their comparatively small size but massive character might be held by a few men against a host. The Norman keep, indeed, which really composed the castle, was capable only of containing a very small garrison, which might hold out, if provi- sioned, any reasonable time until succour arrived. But after the commencement of the thirteenth century, a new system of warfare began to prevail, which was accompanied with new military tactics. The massive keep was now exchanged for an extensive fortress, as it was to be manned by a far more numerous garrison, forming sometimes a little army. These new fortresses inclosed an area, sometimes of considerable extent, which was usually surrounded with more than one circuit of fortifications, consisting of a combination of walls and towers. This new style of fortification is usually distinguished as the Edwardian castle, because it arose and prevailed chiefly during the reigns of the first three Edwards. The Edwardian fortress is often an addition to, and in a manner a development of an older Norman castle ; but the position chosen by the Norman was not always that which seemed best to the military eye of the Edwardian age, and hence a great number of the castles of this period were quite new. Thus, the castle of Cockermouth is entirely Edwardian in cha- racter, though it is beUeved to occupy the site of an older Norman fortress. Cumberland was much richer in Edwardian castles than Westmoreland, which contains hardly a single example of any importance. Naworth Castle, the seat of the earls of Carlisle, which was built early in the reign of Edward HI., was an example of this stvle of castellation, but it has undergone at different times extensive alterations. Another was Piose Castle, the seat of the bishops of Carlisle, which was built about the same period. Penrith, Kirk-Oswald, and Scaleby, may he mentioned as other examples of the Edwardian castle of some importance ; and we have smaller examples of the castle or castellated mansion, of the Edwardian and subsequent periods, at Rocliffe, Muncaster, Hayes, Armathwaite, Dacre, Greystoke, Highhead, Askerton, &c. The importance which the individual gentleman was beginning to assume so early as the thirteenth cen- tury caused each to be desirous of literally making his house his castle, especially in districts so unsettled as the border counties, and during that and the century following the grants of permission from the crown to private gentlemen of licences to embattle, or castellate, their houses are very frequent. Durmg a few years the northern counties enjoyed a comparative degree of tranquillity, for the peace was preserved between the two countries if they had not 16 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES become veiy hearty friends ; but they were destined to experience a new age of disasters, when the death of Alexander III. in 1990, followed by that of bis daughter Margaret, opened a field to the ambition of the house of Plantagenct. After the crown of Scotland had been adjudged to John Baliol, and he hnd been accepted as lung by the Scots, the King of England delivered to him Penrith, Salkeld, and the other manors, which h:id been given to the Scottish kings in consi- deration of their claims to the border counties, but a little later, when Baliol had offended the King of Eng- land, Edward began his hostility by seizing upon these manors, which were never restored. In the spring of ]390, John Comyn, earl of Buchan, with an army for- midable in numbers, but hastily raised and tumultuous, invaded Cumberland, ravaged the country barbarously, and laid siege to Carlisle on the 98tli of March. Having been driven from Carlisle in disgrace, the Scots recrossed the border, after which they threw themselves upon Northumberland, and finally, returning into Cumberland, burnt the priory of Lanercost on the 8th of April. "Wallace, after his victoiy at Stirling in the September of 1997, again invaded the English border. The coun- ties of Northumberland and Cumberland were overrun during several weeks by these ferocious invaders, who laid the country waste with fire and sword, and subjected the miserable inhabitants to every description of cruelty and outrage. CarUsle was summoned, but as the garri- son showed no inclination to surrender, the Scots con- tinued their march, and ravaged the forest of Inglewood and the whole of Allerdale to Cockermouth. Tbe severity of the season compelled them about the middle of November to return into Scotland. Towards Christmas, Sir Kobert Clifford raised the men of Cumberland, and, joining with the garrison of Carlisle, retaliated by invading and ravaging the whole of Annandale. The success of the Scots lasted but a short time, for the victory of Falkirk (July 29, 1998) re-established the power of Edward in Scotland, and, after a successful campaign, he returned with his army to Carlisle, and held his parUament there in the month of September. On his way towards the south, he learnt that the Scots were again in anns, and he immediately signed his writs summoning his barons to meet hira in arras at Carlisle on the eve of the day of Pentecost in the following year. Various circumstances prevented the English monarch from invading Scotland during the year 1299, but in the summer of the year following he marched into that country by the western border. The rather authoritative interference of the pope, however, served as a reason or excuse for a truce, and at the end of August, Edward, having returned over the border, proceeded to Holm- Cultram, and remained there and at Carlisle until the lOih of October. He returned thenco to Dumfries, where the truce with the Scots was concluded on the 30tli of October, and Edward was at Carlisle again, on his way to the south, on the 3rd of November. The revolt of the Scots under Bruce in 1305 brought a renewal of hostilities. Edward now chose Carlisle as the rendezvous of his armies, and he summoned his barons to assemble there on Midsummer-day 1306. On the 28th of August, tbe king himself with his queen arrived there, and they remained there until the 10th of September, when they left to pass tbe remainder of the month in Northumberland. Edward was suffer- ing under tbe united effects of age and disease, and he moved about on the Scottish border slowly. He was at Lanercost at the beginning of October, and remained there, with the exception of a short visit to Carlisle, until the 20th of February, 1307. On the 1st of March he removed to Kirk Cambock, and on the 4th to Lin- stock Castle, where, during six days, he and his queen and court were the guests of the Bishop of Carlisle. On the 19th, the king met his parliament at Carlisle, where, in defiance of his health, he was preparing for another expedition against the Scots. The armj' had been ordered to assemble at Carlisle on the 8th of July. King Edward, whose mind was fiir more vigorous than his body, left Carlisle on the 28th of June, and, although he had hitherto been obliged to be carried in a litter, he remounted his war-horse; but the effort was too much for liim, and he was obliged to halt the same day at the hamlet of Caldecote, a short distance out of the city. Next day he resumed his journey, and on the 5th of July he reached Burgh-on-the-Sands, which was his last halting place. He expired there on the 7th, and a commemorative pillar now marks the spot on which he died. Tbe misgovernment of the reign of Ed- ward II. exposed the border counties to continual de- vastations, and the fuiy of the Scots appears to have been especially directed against Cumberland, on account of the confiscation of Penrith and the other manors which had belonged to the Scottish kings. The district of Gikland was twice overrun by the army of Robert Bruce in 1311, in the second of which invasions the Scottish king occupied the Abbey of Lanercost during three days. Next year Bruce penetrated to Durham, which city was plundered by his followers, and on his return he attacked Carlisle, but w^as repulsed with con- siderable loss by the garrison. He left, but returned by a forced march, and attempted to surprise it by night. His men were actually mounting the walls, when the garrison was aroused by the barking of a dog, and the assailants were again defeated with loss. The OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMOEELAXD. ir booty carried off on this occasion from Northumberland, Westmoreland, and Cumberland, is said to have been immense. After the battle of Bannockburu in 13 U, Brace's brother Edward and Sir James Douglas, after an excursion through Northumberland and Durham into Yorkshire, returned through Cumberland and burnt Appleby and Kirkoswald, on their way. At Christmas, Gilsland was ravaged again, and this inroad was followed by a still more formidable invasion in 1315, directed by the Scottish king in person. The chieftain whose terrible ravages had gained him celebrity under the name of the Black Douglas had led theway, and had laid waste the dis- trict of Egremont, plundered the monastery of St. Bees, and destroyed its manor-houses of Cleator and Stainborn. The united forces of the Scots made an attempt upon Carlisle, but after attacldng it mih persevering resolu- tion during ten days, they were eventually beaten away by the garrison, under its brave commander, Andrew de Hercla. Hercla was subsequently created earl of Caiiisle as a reward for his ser\TLces, but he had hardly enjoyed his honours a year, when ho was accused of treasonable correspondence with the Scots, condemned, and executed at Carlisle. In 1317, the Scots again laid waste Gilsland, the neighbourhood of Brough-under- Stanemore, and other parts of Cumberland and West- moreland. In 1332, the northern counties were invaded by the Scottish king and dreadfully ravaged. Robert Bruce burnt Rose Castle, plundered the Abbey of Holm-Cultram, and laid waste all the western side of Cumberland to Duddon Sands. He then proceeded into Lancashire, and on his return encamped during five days near Carlisle. The unsuccessful expedition of Edward II. in the same year, was followed by a new iuva^n of Cumberland, in the course of which Robert Bruce established his head quarters for several days at Beaumont, near Carlisle, from which his soldiers carried their ravages far over the surrounding country. In all these expeditions the houses of the inhabitants and every thing which was not portable were destroyed, and the live stock and all the population which did not escape, or were not slain, were driven away into Scotland. The accession of Edward III. brought victory back to the standard of England, but did not save the northern counties from a repetition of these destructive inroads. In the summer which followed that event, the court moved to York, while the Enghsh anny assembled at Newcastle, and reinforcements were sent to the castle of Carlisle ; yet an army of fourteen thousand Scots, commanded by Randolph and Douglas, swept over Cumberland, and wasted the country as far as the county of Durham. The flight of Edward Baliol from Scotland in 133'2, drew after it a destructive invasion of the district of Gilsland, which had so often before been the scene of the ravages of the Scots. In 1337, the Scots entered the county of Cumberland by way of Arthuret, destroyed about twenty villages in their pro- gress eastward, and carried home an immense booty. They returned the same year, attacked Carlisle, and burnt the suburbs and the hospital of St. Nicholas, as well as Rose Castle. In 13-12, they made an inroad through Gilsland, and advanced as far as Penrith, which was burnt. In a similar invasion in 1345, Carlisle and Penrith were burnt. Next year David Bruce in person, taking advantage of the absence of Edward HI. in France, subjected the Enghsh border to a much more formidable invasion. He entered Cumberland, took Liddel Castle by assault, beheaded the gover- nor, and massacred the whole garrison. The Scots plundered the monks of Lanercost.and after committing, as usual, frightful destruction, marched by way of /ftraworth to Ridpath. These devastations were re- venged by the battle of Neville's Cross and the capture of the Scottish king. From this time, the border remained for some years free from such visitations, or, at least, no inroads occurred of sufficient magnitude to have found a place in history ; but they were resumed after the accession of Richard II. to the throne of Eng- land. In the summer of 1 380, the Scots laid waste the forest of Inglewood, surprised the town of Penrith, at the period of the great annual fair, when it was of course more than usually filled with people, and com- mitted a barbarous massacre of the townsmen and strangers. They carried back to Scotland a very great booty, and a multitude of people as captives, but they were accompanied in their return by a pestilence which was then raging in the north of England, and which is said to have swept away one-third of the population of Scotland. On this occasion the invaders also made a fierce attack upon CarHsle, and they are said to have set fire to one of the streets by throwing in combustiles attached to arrows, but the report of an approaching army compelled them to withdraw across the border. These attacks appear to have been repeated in the following years, for we find the abbot of Holm-Cultram paying a large sum of money to the Earl of Douglas in 1383 to save his abbey from being burnt. During the hostilities between the two countries in 1383, the Scots under Douglas, with their French allies, overrun and ravaged Cumberland with dreadfid ferocity, and, after laying waste the lands of the principal border barons, made an attack upon Carlisle, but they were again beaten off with loss. Encouraged by the weakness of the English government, the Scottish borderers became bolder, and, independently of the greater military raids, the English IS HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES counties were now exposed to continual depredations. In 1387, the Earl of Fife, with the Earl of Douglas and the lord of Galloway, raised an army of thirty thousand men, and, by a rapid march, fell suddenly on the rich and heautiful district of Cockermouth, which had not expe- rienced such a visitation since the days of Robert Bruce. After plundering and ravaging this country during three days without opposition, they made another attack upon Carlisle, and burnt the suburbs. It is related that on tliis occasion, Lord Douglas's illegitimate son, Sir WiUiani Douglas, distinguished himself by his extraordinary bravei-y. On a narrow drawbridge in the out-works, he is said to have encountered three armed citizens, of whom he slew one, and compelled the other two to yield. It was perhaps on this occasion that the Scottish army was attacked and defeated, and driven across the river with the loss of eleven hundred men. The chro- nicler, who has recorded this engagement, says that it took place a few days before the feast of St. Lawrence. Next year Gilsland was again invaded with great bar- barity. It is said that the Scots shut up in some houses two hundred decrepid people, women and childreu, and deliberately burnt them. The ruin to which these border districts were thus exposed during more than a century must have been dreadful, and is quite sufficient to account for the rarity of monuments of the ecclesiastical architecture of th^ period between the thirteenth century and the fifteenth, which has been remai'ked especially in Cumberland. In most of the churches, which present a diversity of styles, the Nonnau or the early Enghsh appears to be followed immediately by the perpendicular. Little, too, seems to have been left of the older domestic architec- ture of the two counties, and most of the old manor houses now existing date from the fifteenth or, more generally, from the sixteenth century. We cannot doubt, indeed, that everything in the shape of buUding, except massive stone walls, must have been hopelessly ruined. We hear liltle of border raids in the fifteenth century, and even the wars of the roses seem to have affected these remote districts very slightly. A Scottish army in the interest of Heni-y VI. besieged Carhsle and burnt the suburbs in 14C1, but this appears as a sohtary event in history, and any subsequent inroads of a serious character occur only m combination with some greater poUtical event. In 1522, the regent Duke of Albany advanced to Carhsle at the head of a Scottish army, but that place was well provided for defence, and he withdrew without any further hostihties. During the hostilities between the three countries in 1 ."^2.3, Lord Maxwell made an inroad into Cumberland, defeated a force which at- tempted to resist him, and did considerable damage. The last struggles of feudalism in the northern rebellions of 1536, called popukrly the Pi]gi-image of Grace, and 1 569, caused a certain degree of agitation on the border, which continued to manifest itself at times during the rest of the reign of Ehzabeth, but was finally put an end to by the union of the two crowns on the head ol' James I. The last inroad of the Scots happened im- mediately after the accession of that monarch to the EngUsh throne, when a party of two or three hundred entered Cumberland and carried their depredations as far as Penrith ; but they were attacked and dispersed by a detachment of the garrison of Berwick, sent by the king who was in that town on his way to England. The practice of plunder, however, had become so habitual among the borderers, that in spite of the severe punish- ment with which it was visited, it long continued to prevail, and even the gallows seems hardly to have been looked upon as a disreputable end to the unlucky stealer of sheep or horse who chanced to fall into the hands of the law. A border anecdote has been repeated more than once, which relates especially to the parish of Bewcastle. We are told that a. stranger visiting that place was surprised to find that the tomb-stones in the churchyard commemorated none but females, and he made a remark to that effect to tlie old lady who accom- panied him as a guide. " Oh, sir," she rephed feelingly, "they're a' buried at that weary Caerl!" In the sequel, the astonished inquirer learnt that no male inhabitant of that district was known to have ended his days other- wise than being hanged at Carlisle. However, the opening of the fifteenth century brought with it a comparative degree of personal security, and the landholders began to return to their estates and rebuild their houses. In tliese, strength for jS^nco was an important consideration, and most of them had a massive square tower, of three or four storeys, with a vaulted chamber on the ground floor. This was the retreat of the family in case of an incursion of ihe Scots. The larger houses had yards, strongly walled, in which the cattle were shut up at night, or in times of danger. Examples of the towers are stiU found attached to some of the older country houses in Cumberland. Houses of an older date than the sixteenth century are rare in Cumberland or Westmoreland, but both counties can boast of some interesting examples of the domestic architecture of that period. Naworth Castle, which is one of the fuiest examples of the later baronial residences, was built chiefly during the reign of Ehzabeth, upon the remains of an edifice of the fourteenth centurj'. Dacre Castle, in Cumberland, is one of the larger examples of the tower of which wc have been speaking, and is like- wise a building originally of the fourteenth century, but OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. 19 considerably altered in the sixteenth. Another example of the tower occurs at Yanwath Hall, in Westmoreland ; and others will be found in Cumberland, at Kirk- Andi-ews upon Esk, as well as at Irtou Hall, Mun- caster. Nether Hall, and Netherby. Among the finest of the Elizabethan mansions are Drumburgh Castle, Dalston Uall, and Harby Brow, Hardi-igg, Hew- thwaito, and Lamjilugh Halls, in Cumberland ; and Levins, Wharton, and perhaps Clifton Halls, in Westmoreland. Local history may be considered as in some degree co-existent with feudalism, and ceases to possess any general interest at the period when the multiplicity of separate independencies were absorbed in the centrali- sation of power under which feudalism perished. The border counties, as a natural consequence of their position, preserved a general interest longer than the southern districts, and it was not imtil some time after the union of the two crowns that this interest was entu'ely destroyed. A considerable extent of territory lying to the north of the Esk, and extending to a certain extent on both sides of the real boundary line of the two countries, was known as the debatable ground, because it was the subject of conflicting claims between the two crowns. This territoiy was occupied chiefly by the rather numerous clan of the Grames, or Grahams, whose chief dwelt at Netherby, and who, by theii- depredations, had made themselves equally obnoxious to the two crowns. These depredations had been carried on with unusual boldness during the later years of the reign of Elizabeth, and, as they were not checked by the proclamations of her successor. King •James determined to put an end to them in a summary manner, by the expulsion of the whole clan. An assess- ment was made on the county of Cumberland, in 1606, to defray the expenses of what was termed in those days the " transplantation" of this clan, who were embarked at Workington, and sent partly to Ireland and partly to the Netherlands. The love of their old country seems to have been still powerful with the banished Grames, and some of them ventured to return, and a proclamation for apprehending them appeared in 1614. Nevertheless, some of the branches of this clan had been allowed to remain, no doubt on account of their more peaceful beha\-iour ; and Eichard Graham, of Esk, was created a baronet in 1620, and purchased Netherby and the barony of Liddell. The family is at present repre- sented by the Eight Hon. Sir James Graham. There still remained, however, in the debatable ground, a multitude of wild freebooters, who were known by the name of moss-troopers, from the character of th e country in which they found shelter, and who gave great trouble to the legal authorities, and no little occupation, as has been already intimated, to the executioner at Carlisle. The great opponents of these marauders were the Howards of Naworth, the ancestors of the earls of Carlisle ; and the Lord William Howard, who held the office of Warder of the Western Marches during the reigns of James I. and Charles I., was so continually in the saddle in pursuit of them that he became popularly known by the name of Belted Willie. The two counties appear not to have been so much agitated as many other parts of the kingdom, during the civil wars of the reign of Charles I. Their inhabitants, many of whom were old Catholic families, took less part in the new political principles which were then abroad, and they joined early in the association of the northern counties to raise forces for the king, who had an ai-my there in 1644. After the gi'eat defeat of Marston Moor, July 2, 1644, Prince Eupsrt led the forces he had saved from the battle back through Lancashire to join these Cumberland and Westmoreland levies. Earlier in the year Slontrose had raised a small army in Cumberland, with which he crossed the border and took possession of Dumfries, but the approach of the Earl of Callander compelled him to fall back upon Carlisle, where, according to some accounts, he was besieged, but our information on this subject is of a very uncertain character. Carlisle was subsequently occupied by the royalist troops which had formed the garrison of York, and received for its governor Sir Thomas Glenham. At some period dming these events, an attempt was made to raise a force for the parliament in Cumberland, but they were easily defeated and dispersed. The royalists of these pai-ts were now, however, threatened with more serious dangers, for the Scottish army, under General Lesley, was approaching this part of the border. Towards the end of September, he defeated, near Great Salkeld, a detachment of royalists, commanded by Sir PhiHp Musgrave and Sir Henry Fletcher, and drove them to Carlisle, whence he continued his march to take part in the siege of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Newcastle was taken by storm in the month of October, after which Lesley returned into Cumberland with .part of the Scottish forces, and the siege of Carlisle was regularly opened. The garrison and townsmen held out resolutely dming several months, although reduced to the greatest distress by want of provisions, until the king's defeat at Naseby deprived them of all hopes of relief, aud they sur- rendered, aud obtained honourable terms, on the 25th of June, 1645. Lord Digby and Sir Marmaduke Langdale made an attempt to revive the royalist influ- ence in Cumberland, in the folio vving October, but they were entirely defeated by Sii' John Brown, the governor 20 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES of Carlisle Castle, and made their escape, not without difficulty, to the Isle of Mau. At the close of the fol- lowing year, the Scottish garrison, which had till then held possession of Carlisle, was withdrawn and sent away, and orders were given for dismantling the castle. It was not till two years after this period that new events occurred to give importance to the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland. The first signal of these new troubles was the surprise of Carlisle by Sir Thomas Glenham and Sir Philip JIusgrave, at the end of the April of 1648; and immediately after- wards Sir Marmadukc Langdale assembled a force of upwards of foui- thousand men, raised chiefly in Cumber- land and Westmoreland, upon a heath about five miles from that city. Lambert, vrhe then commanded for the pai-liament in the north, advanced to Penrith in the middle of June, and made that place his head quarters, while Langdale fell back upon Carlisle, of which Mus- grave had been made governor. The castles of Grey- stock, Rose, and Scaleby, were taken by the Parliamen- tarians on this occasion, and the two former are said to have been burnt. This movement of the royalists in Cumberland had been concerted with the party headed by the Duke of Hamilton in Scotland, who had at this moment gained the superiority in the Scottish councils, and resolved upon taking up arms to liberate the king. The Scottish army, which was veiy ill equipped, numbered at that time nearly fifteen thousand men, of whom about four thousand were cavaliy. A few days afterwards he was joined by General Monro, who brought a reinforcement of two thousand foot and one thousand horse from Ireland. The main body of the Scottish army lay about Wigton; and it was further reinforced by the forces under Su: Mannaduke Langdale, which now amounted to about four thousand foot and eight thou- sand horse. Lambert, whose army was quite insuf- ficient to contest the ground with so formidable a force as this, fell back from Penrith upon Appleby, where the Scots were driven back in an attempt to dis- lodge the Parliamentarians. Lambert, however, continued his retrograde movement to Bowes, where lie received some reinforcements from Yorkshire. Hamilton had now begun bis march towards the south, leavuig Carlisle in charge of a Scottish garrison, under the command of Sir William Livingston, whom he had appointed its governor in the place of Sir Philip ^lusgrave. The Scottish army remained a month in Westmoreland, without performing auy exploit worth mentioning. The soldiere, who were turbulent and undisciplined, overran the country, plundering and committing such barbarous outrages as exasperated the inhabitants to the highest degree, until it was so ex- hausted that they were compelled to remove out of it by the want of provisions. ^Monro, with his Irish troops, was left at Kendal, with orders, in case the main array was attacked, to fall back upon Appleby or Carlisle according to circumstances, while Hamilton, ruled by the advice of the Earl of Callander, directed his march through Westmoreland, in the direction of Preston. The disasters of Preston and Warrington so com- pletely ruined the Scottish army, that about fifteen hundred of Hamilton's horse were all who reached Monro, to carry him the first intelligence of the misfor- tune of the rest. Monro had advanced from Kendal to Kirby Lonsdale, where he received intelligence that Cromwell was advancing upon him from Yorkshire, and he immediately retreated to Appleby, and sent a messenger to convey the information to the Duke of Hamilton and bring back his orders, but he soon after- wards learnt that Cromwell had taken the road to Pres- ton, and then he resumed his quarters at Kirby Lons- dale. It appears that the messenger he had sent to Hamilton had been intercepted, and the sui-prise and alarm of the Scots at Kirby Lonsdale, on receiving their intelligence in this abrupt manner of the capture of Hamilton and the loss of his army, may be easily imagined. The cavalry refused to remain with them, but continued their headlong flight to Scotland,'plun- dering and committing so many outrages on the way, that the peasantry, in their exasperation, slew every straggler they met with. Monro, also, began his re- treat, but, with the same spirit which actuated his followers, he took the eastern road, intending to set fire to the coal-pits at Newcastle. The Hamiltonian party, however, had now been overthrown in Scotland, and he was met by an order of the committee of estates to return without further hostilities, in consequence of which he mai-ched direct to the border. The royalists of Cumberland had been active, and seem to have reckoned on recovering the superiority during these events. Sir Philip Musgrave, with a por- tion of the royalist militia of Cumberland, presented himself before Carlisle, where the Scottish governor refused to admit him ; while Lieutenant Bii-d, who held Cockermouth Castle for the parliament, was be- sieged by about five hundred of the royalist forces of Cumberland during more than a month, until he was relieved on the 29th of September, by the arrival of Colonel Ashtou, whom Cromwell had sent from Lan- caster to his assistance. Carhsle was delivered by the Scots to Cromwell on the 1st of October, and received a strong garrison, consisting chiefly of cavahy, as they were designed for the suppression of the moss-troopers. OF CUMBEKLAND ASD WESTMORELAND. 21 The garrison appears to liave been increased in subse- quent years, as we read of a detachment of a thousand men having been sent into Scotland, in the December of 1050, and of another detachment of two thousand men sent by ^lajor-General Harrison, then governor of Carhsle, against a party of Scots, who threatened the border in tlie June of the following year. Both Cumberland and Westmoreland were reduced to great distress by the ravages of the Scots during the expedition of the Duke of Hamilton. The petitions of the inhabitants of the former county, when seeking to be eased of the burthen of supporting the garrison of Carhsle after the expulsion of the Scots, complained that families of the first quality had hardly bread enough for their own consumption, with nothing to drink but water ; that people died of starvation in the public roads; and that there were in the county of Cumberland no less thau thirty thousand families who had neither seed nor bread corn, and who were entirely without money to buy them. The parhament ordered a collection to be made for their relief. The border counties again enjoyed a long period of tranquiUity. During the Scottish Jacobite rebellion of 1715, another attempt was made to penetrate into England by the route through Cumberland. Towards the end of October, Brigadier Mackintosh with his Highlanders had formed a junction at Kelso with the English insurgents under General Forster and Lord Kenmui'e ; and at the beginning of November they crossed the border and took up their quarters at Brampton, where Forster opened his commission trom the Earl of Mar, which appointed him commander-in- chief of the army in England, and at the same time the Pretender was proclaimed. The rebels marched thi-ough Cumberland and Westmoreland, halting for a while at Penrith and Appleby, but meeting with no sympathy from the population of the countiy through which they passed, and many of the English troops had deserted before they reached Kirby Lonsdale. The ill-conducted expedition ended speedily by the capture of the rebel army at Preston. In the more formidable rebellion of 1743, these coun- ties were chosen as the line of march of the Pretender into England. The Pretender left Kelso on the 6th of November ; and, after making a demonstration as though he would enter Northumberland, in order to deceive General Wade, who was at Newcastle, he crossed the Esk on the 9th near Longtown, and entered Cumberland, passing that night at a place called Reddings on the road to Carlisle. Having assembled his whole army here on the 10th, he con- tinued his march. A party of Highland cavalry had already sho^vn themselves upon Stanwix bank, but had retired after a few shots from the castle. Carlisle had been left in a veiy defenceless condition, its whole garrison consisting of a company of invalids under the command of Colonel Duiund, and the fortifications in a ruinous state ; but the whole body of the mihtia of Cumberland and Westmoreland had been drawn into the city, and the mayor, Mr. Pattison, talked of defending the place with resolution. Accordingly, the summons to sun-euder was received in silent defiance, and the rebels, after firing a few shots, marched on the 11th to Bi-ampton, in consequence of a report that Genei^al Wade was advancing to the relief of Cai-hsle. Charies Edward Stuart slept on the 9th at a Mr. Murray's, three miles south of Carhsle : on the 10th at Black Hall, m St. Mary's parish; and on the 11th at Warwick Hall. As no more was heard of Wade, a sti'ong (hvision of the Scottish army resumed the siege of Cai-- lisle on the 13th, and the town and ganison at first made great show of resistance ; but, when preparations were made for an assault on the ] -jth, both the mayor and the governor agreed to capitulate ; and the Duke of Perth took possession of Carlisle in the name of the Pretender, who was next day proclaimed there, the mayor and municipal bodies attending with the sword and mace can-ied before them. The rebels took, in the castle and city, a great number of cannon, fifteen cohorn mortars, and an abundance of cannon-balls, gi'enades, small bombs, about a hundred barrels of gunpowder, and other military stores. Among the ai-ms were many of the Highland broad swords taken at Preston in 17 1 5. On the -^Ist and Q2ud, the Scot- tish army, leaving a garrison of two hundred men in Carlisle, marched to Penrith, and thence advanced to the southward through Lancashire. The subsequent fate of this expedition is well known, and belongs but pai'tially to our border counties. The Pretender reached Penrith on his retreat on the 17th of December, during the night of which day the Duke of Cumberland and Major-General Oglethorpe, who were in pui-suit, slept at Kendal. Next morning, Oglethorpe's light horse, accompanied by many -of the squires and farmers of the country armed and mounted, rode early in the pureuit, and came in sight of the rear of the rebel army, as it was making its way laboriously over Clifton moor, but as the Pretender had sent most of his horse to protect the baggage and artilleiT, Ogle- thoi-pe did not feel strong enough to attack it, and fell back upon Kendal. Lord George Mun-ay, who com- manded the rear of the Pretender's ai-my, sent forward the baggage, and remained behind to check the pursuit. Learing a few men in a farm-house on the road, he 22 HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES marched rapidly through the village of Clifton, with ahout three hundred foot and a troop of horse, to take possession of Lowthcr Hall, where he fouud a servant of the Dulce of Cumberland, from wliom he learut that the duke was advancing with four thousand cavalry and some infantry, and that ho intended to estabUsh his head quarters at Lowther Hall the same evening. Lord George fell back in haste upon the village of Clifton, and despatched a messenger to Prince Charles, who sent some regiments back to reinforce him. These were placed under cover of the hedges and walls in a line from the village of Clifton to the house of a Quaker, named Savage, at the foot of the moor. One of Savage's family, however, made his way through the fields un- observed, as the night had now set in, and informed the Duke of Cumberland of the dispositions of the rebel forces. The EngUsh made an attempt to dislodge the latter, in spite of the darkness, but they were repulsed with some loss. Nevertheless, the rebels made a hasty retreat to Penrith, expecting to liud their prince there, but he had no sooner heard of the skirmish than he fled precipitately to Carlisle. The night was so dark, and the moimtain roads in that winter season so bad, that the rebels, though not pursued, suffered greatly, and Charles Stuart was obliged to abandon his horse and proceed on foot, and in this condition he reached Carhslo nest morning, the IDth of December. The Duke of Cumberland had slept that night in the house of a loyal Quaker, in the outskirts of the village of Clifton, but in the morning he continued the pursuit. The rebels remained only one night in Carlisle, and on the 20tb, leaving a garrison of three hundred men in the castle, continued their retreat, and at night re- crossed the river Esk into Scotland. They had quitted Carlisle so precipitately, that they were obliged to leavo there all their artillery and a great part of their bag- gage ; and at the time they were crossing the Esk, the Duke of Cumberland was already within eight miles of CarUsle, which was formally invested next day. The siege operations were delayed by the want of siege artillery, which had to be brought from Wliitehaveu ; but the duke's batteries were in a condition to open fire on the 28th, and the Scottish garrison sun-endered at discretion on the 30th. The suppression of this rebel- lion may be considered as closing the history of the Scottish border. C|e ic0{0gn 0f (^iimbcitintr mxii Mtstwmdiwxii, T\'ITH PARTICl'LAK REFEEEXCE TO THE DISTEIOT OF THE ENGLISH LAKES. Some few years ago I burst into the studio of a clever artist, an intimate friend, and found Mm occupied in putting some- finishing touches to a landscape compo- sition. The general effect was pleasing enough, and the arrangement of light and shade exquisite ; still, when asked my opinion upon the production, I was obhged to express dissatisfaction. My fi-ieud slightly coloured. What was it wliich oflfended me '? Want of congruity, I rephsd; — want of truthfulness to nature. Even had you not expressly informed me of the fact, I should have been assured that it is no real landscape -which is here pourti-ayed. I then questioned him as to his summer ramblings. Had he ever sketched in Kent? Yes, many a time. Had he ever visited Wales or Cumberland? Yes, both. Perhaps he had crossed over into the Isle of Man ? Yes ; he had some Manx sketches in his portfoho. And therefore, I con- tinued, in composing this picture from your note-book, you have placed on one side of your lovely Kentish valley, with its hazel copses and hop-clad slopes, the towering porphyritic peaks of Scawfell and Great- Oable, and on the other the beautifully rounded out- line of Bein-y-Phot or Greebah, the softer clay schists of whose smface have been ploughed up by the passage over them of ice-floes and icebergs, and then degraded during ages of quiet upheaval from the depths of an arctic sea. And see, I added, this mass of rock which so picturesquely occupies the foreground, and is pre- sumed to have been detached and to have fallen from this frowning porphyritic precipice, is a veritable lump of mountain limestone, one of the blocks which the action of the boisterous sea which beats on the ii-on- bound coast of old Mona, has torn down from the singular patch of limestone which juts out between Port St. Mary and Perwick bay. My friend, with his characteristic candour, owned the correctness of my remarks, and acknowledged that, to be a proficient in his art, he ought either to paint direct from nature, or, if he composed a picture, to become a geologist. Perhaps some might be inclined to exclaim, " Cur ego amicum offendam in nugis:" i.e., " Wliy get in a passion with such trifles as these ;" or, with the same classic author, to afBrm that " to poets and painters sufficient liberty must be allowed." Granted ; yet our old friend Horace is quite as decided as to the necessity of iinitij in a poem or a picture ; and that man as much offends against true art, truth, and nature itself, who " paints a granitic pealv a-top of a chalk cliff", as he who pourtrays " a dolphin in the woods, or a wild boar in the midst of the sea." The fact is, that both poets and painters of some eminence have been guilty of many (so to speak) geological anachronisms. The terras granitic and adamantine sound very grand, and help to round a line, if they do not always express a truth ; and so, also, it is very easy to paint gigantic breakers dashing against impossible coasts, and fi-om ignorance of the effects of the atmosphere on rocks of different texture, to display, on the same canvas, such "an aggregation of scenery as it is not hkely, if at all possible, should occur on the face of nature. Geology, though an infant science, has already added immensely to the intellectual enjoyments of the human race. The history of no country can be considered complete without the chapter of its physical history ; and for a tourist to enter upon a district, guide-book and map in hand, but that guide-book or map defective in geological description or coloming, is much the same as if he should walk into a picture gallery vrith a catalogue of its contents, but that catalogue unnumbered, or the 24 GEOLOGY OF numbers so placed as not to con-espond witli the ticlcets attached to each separate painting. The following pages are intended to supply to the present volume such a synopsis of the geology of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and more especially of the lake district, as may hel[) the general reader to a just appreciation of the varied beauties which belong to this locality; and, whilst gaziug on the lovely retire- ment of the vales, and the deep quiet of those azure lakes in which majestic mountains glass themselves, to enable him to revert to the period when the mountains •were being heaved up with volcanic throes from the depths of the primeval ocean, or, subsequently, were being degraded by the action of the glacier and the avalanche, whilst an arctic sea reached far up into the country, changing the valleys into icy fiords, whence it bore far away vast spoils of poqjhyry, greenstone, and granite, and spread them over a sea bottom which has since become the plains of Yorkshire, Lancashire, Cheshire, and Staffordshire, stranding also a portion on the southern coasts of the Isle of Man. When I first became acquainted with Cumberland and Westmoreland, I was but a tyro in earth-science. It is a fearful country for the young student in geology to break ground in. Torn in pieces, and then crumpled up in almost every possible contortion — intersected with vast dykes of protruded and intruded igneous rocks — starred in every direction with faults, and then scored with the ice tracks of a thousand ages ; — how is such a country to be unravelled? Where must the student begin? — where can he end? No wonder, then, that at the end of three months, though many a rock had yielded to the more energetic blows of my youthful hammer, and my packages were considerably heavier on my exodus from the country than at my advent to it, I had not advanced far into a knowledge of the structiu-e of the mountain masses, and of their relation to the rocks of other regions I was in almost total ignorance. At that time, the great sub- divisions of the oldest strata of the globe — the inner garments, as it were, which wrap about the giant limbs of Mother Earth, had scarcely been made out ; and the terms Cumbrian, C'amlrian, Silurian, Devonian, were only beginning to find a place in the vocabulary of geologists. The patient, untiring laboui's of an humble individual, Mr. Otley, who must ever be regarded as the father of Cumberland and Westmoreland geology, had indeed worked out the chief problems of relative age of the different deposits, and had traced out almost accu- rately the boundaries of each ; but the subject of metamorphism [i.e., change of form or' structure of rocks) had hardly been touched upon, and the diluvial theory of the transport of boulders, and of the gravel and sands of the later tertiaries, reigned supreme. The orderly mind of the venerable father of English geology, WiUiam Smith, accustomed to trace out that beautiful sequence of the strata of the secondary period, which in no quarter of the globe is better developed than m the south and east of England, started back at the confusion of this area of volcanic action ; and the maps which he and his talented son-in-law. Professor Phillips, had accomphshed, could only at the time place the rocks of the lake country under the one great nomenclature of the clay-slate and grauwacke-slate system. It was reserved to Professor Sedgwick, applying a mind power- ful in itself, but trained to closer reasoning by the studies of that university of which he has long been so bright an ornament, to bring forth order out of chaos, and after many a footsore ramble amongst the mountains and glens of his almost native district, to lay before the Geological Society of London the result of years of investigation, in a series of papers which must ever form the ground-work of any geological description of this area. Whatever future research may do in determining, by means of larger suites of fossils, the actual equivalents of the rocks of the lake district and surrounding country, when placed alongside those of Wales and other palaeozoic and hypozoic districts, whatever may be the nomencla- ture wliich future geologists may find it most convenient to adopt in reference to these vast groups of strata — whether the name Cambrian, as first bestowed upon them by Professor Sedgwick, be retained, and whether it be regarded as corresponding with a portion of the lower Silurian of Sir Roderic Murchison, still it is very unlikely that any material alteration can take place in the classification which Professor Sedgwick has made of the rocks of these counties, or in the outline which he has traced of the different areas which they occupy. The tribute which that eminent geologist Professor PhiUips has given to the work of Professor Sedgwick is most just when he says, " From his judgment it is seldom safe to differ." In later years I have several times gone over this locality, again and again making various traverses, chiefly with the view of tracing the direction of the currents of the boulderclay and post- tertiary period, and the map which Professor Sedgwick has deposited in the library of the Geological Society of London, has certainly been my most faithful guide in following up to their true situs, or origin, the several drifted materials. An old writer, in speaking of the Isle of Jlan, has described it as " ane parke in y'' sea, impaled with rocks." Such might, in former ages, have served for the description too of the English lake district. The CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. 25 plains which encircle it on every side (in which we may include the fragment of the drift fringing its western margin) forraod the bed of a sea, out of which uprose the pinnacles of slate, porphyry, syenite, and granite, in the midst of which repose those exquisite waters whicli have given a character and celebrity to this portion of England. In endeavouring to give to the general reader a notion of the structure of the area of Cumberland and West- moreland, and of the causes which have led to its present appearance, I shall only presume that he possesses a very small quantity of geological knowledge, and can excuse my using very simple terms and illustrations. It is necessary that he should be aware that the rocks of which the crust of the globe on which we live is composed may be divided first of all into two great classes, viz., ir/neous, or those which have been forced up from below by the action of fire, and aq\(£ous (or perhaps, rather, as we should call them, sedimentary), i.e., those which have been deposited from above after having been mecha- nically suspended in, or rolled along by, water. To the former class, in modem times, belongs the lava poured forth from volcanoes ; and to the latter class belong the mud, sand, and gravel which settle down either in fresh water lakes or at the bottom of the sea. Both the above classes have in some places undergone a change in their original constitution, and, from some causes which I will not now discuss, have assumed a crystalline, or semi-crystalline appearance. They have hence been called inetamorpliic, i.e., altered rocks. In the district of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and particularly in the midst of the lakes, we meet with the most perfect examples of these different classes of rock, and I proceed to give a short account of the origin of each, and the localities where they may best be studied. I will not speculate upon what may have been the original condition of our globe, but presume that wo have come to that chapter in its history when the physical operations going on upon its surface were similar in kind, though, perhaps, not altogether in degree, to those which we witness now; — when, as now, the earthquake and the volcano were upheaving and breaking the surface of oiu- earth, and the sea and air were at work upon the upheaved surface, pulling it down again to one general level. The earliest stratified rocks of this district, as far as we at present know, are the Skiddaw slates, whose general character is dark, glossy, laminated, and argil- laceous. Though deposited originally as mud at the bottom of the primeval sea, it is only very lately that organic remains, that is, fossils, or relics of ancient life, have been discovered in them. We are indebted for this discovery to Mr. John Ruthven, of Kendal, whose labours in working out the details of these beds, and of the greater part of the strata of this district, are beyond all praise. Previous to his discoveries, it had been usual to term the Skiddaw slate as hypozoic, i.e., below the range of life upon our globe. But I would observe here, that even should no organic remains be found in any particular rock, it would always be unsafe to say that at the period of its formation there was no animal life upon the surface of our earth. The sea bottom of that locality might at that time have happened to be so deep as to he below the lowest known zone of animal life. There are vast areas at the bottom of our present oceans which must be regarded almost as marine deserts, destitute of a fauna or flora, except of a microscopic character. Besides, many strata (as, for instance, the lower portion of these Skiddaw slates) have, since their deposition in the form of mud, undergone great changes, in which such a general derangement of the particles of which they were made up has been effected as to obli- terate all traces of organised life which may once have existed in them. These Skiddaw slates may best be studied by making a traverse across the country in a south-westward direction, beginning from Calbeck Fells. The scenerv' which passes before the eye in this district is of the wildest character, for the strata have been crampled up and tossed about in grand confusion. I have never dwelt on a prospect which has gratified me more than that which is presented to view on a summer's eve, to one looking westward from Lattrigg, towards Causey Pike, Grassmoor, and Whiteless. I can only compare it to that of a troubled ocean running really " mountains high," and fixed all on a sudden in a solid condition. The boundary of the Skiddaw slate district will be found by drawing a curved line first northward, then north-westward, from Mell Fell at the foot of Ulleswater, by JIungrisdale, towards Hesketh, then turning westward to Isell, thence through Cockermouth south-westward to Egremont. From a few miles south of Egremont, we shall find the southern boundary as a rather irregular line passing across Ennerdale near the Great Coves, orer Highstile, Honister Crag, and the head of New- lands, thence by Wallow Crag near Keswick, by Wanth- waite Crag and Wolf Crag, and back again to the soutli side of MeU Fell. It should be observed also that we have a great mass of the Skiddaw slate brought up, contorted and altered, in Black Combe, in the south-western corner of Cumber- land, at a point far distant from the proper Skiddaw slate district. 26 GEOLOGY OF Next above the Skiddaw slates, we liave a mass of green slates and porph_yries of vast thickness. It would seem that whilst the ordinary aqueous deposits were going on at the bottom of the sea of that period, there •were constant outbursts of igneous matter from the bowels of the earth. Sometimes the ejected matter (ejected, probably, at a great depth in the ocean, and therefore under great pressure) first disturbed, then overlaid, the aqueous deposits, forming breccias and masses of plutonic rock. Again, these masses were degraded and rubbed down into fine mud, and the result deposited either in beds of plutonic silt by themselves, or they were mixed with the ordinary deposits of the then sea bottom. We meet with similar appearances, though of a differ- ent geological age, and belonging to an entirely different and later system, in the south of the Isle of Man. There the ordinary deposits of limestone, of the carboniferous period, are distinctly seen mingled with igneous rock ; basaltic masses with dykes sometimes rising up through the beds of limestone — sometimes overlying them — at other times alternating with them, and even mingled in such a manner that the ordinary fossils of the carbon- iferous period are found embedded in masses of trap- tuff; and the mi.^ture of volcanic ash and mud with calcareous mud is so intimate that it is difficult to name some hand specimens of the resulting rock, or to say which most predominates in them, the volcanic or the calcareous element. As in the case of the Skiddaw slates, so in reference to these superior green and porphyritic slates, we must observe that a change in their constitution has taken place since their deposition and consolidation. This change may have been eftecled by long contact under great pressure with heated masses of granitic rocks; and we may well notice that great masses of syenite do actually break out in the midst of them in several instances, as, for example, in the vale of St. John, near Keswick, and on the southern side of Ennerdale. As might naturally have been expected, the change, or tnetamorphism, has most intensely affected the more porphyritic portion of this series. Having at a pre- vious period been in a fused condition, it more readil;^ assumed the crystalline character when again subjected to heat. It is not surprising that in such a series of rocks, deposited under circumstances generally so unfavorable to life or to the preservation of organic remains, we have not met with any fossils. They may, however, yet bo found embedded as in the Isle of Man, even in volcanic products. In fact, in the upper portion of them wc do meet with organic remains in a calcareous band, which has been named by Professor Sedgwick the Coniston limestone, and which, though formerly regarded by him as belonging to and forming the base of an upper group of strata on the parallel of the Bala limestone of North Wales, has ultimately been included in his lower sub- division of the Cambrian strata. In the same subdi- vision he includes the gi-oup of dark coloured slates and clay flagstones lying just above the Coniston limestone band, and to which he has given the name of Coniston calcareous slate, or Brathay flags. The total thickness of these beds of limestone slate and flagstones is not less than 1,800 feet. Their general appearance indicates an altered condition of the sea bottom at the time of their deposit, and a cessation, for a long period, of those out- bursts of igjieous matter which had previously been disturbing it. Thus, the circumstances were more favourable to the development of life, and to the preservation of the remains of the earlier forms of animated being. The area of this division of the rocks of the lake district lying immediately above the Skiddaw slate, and for which we may still retain the name of the green roofing slate and porphyry series, though including in it also the Coniston Umestone, calcareous slate, and Brathay flags, may be thus defined. Its northern boundary will, of course, be the same as that of the upper portion or southern boundary of the Skiddaw slate series last considered. Its western boundary is an irregular line (interrupted by the ele- vation of Black Combe and the granite of Eskdale), beginning near Calder Abbey, and terminating in the Duddon estuary. Its southern boundaiy is a curved line passing from a little south of Broughtou towards Coniston-water-head, where it is broken off by a great dislocation and carried northward. Wc may follow it again through Hawkshead Fould, thence by Wray across Windermere to Low Wood ; after that it crosses the valleys of Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Long Sleddale to Shap Wells, where it is disturbed by the granite. Its eastern boundary will be a hue drawn at the foot of the mountain limestone escarpment from Shap to Pooley Bridge. In this area ai-e included the loftiest peaks of the lake district, Scawfell and Helvellyn, and some of the grandest scenery, as Wastwater, Bon-ow- dale, Langdale, Grasmere, UUeswater. The Coniston limestone may be best studied at Coniston-water-head, in a quariy by the roadside, thence to Ambleside, where a good suite of fossils may be collected. A very fair collection from the same lime- stone may be also made by the roadside, half-way between Lowwood and Ambleside, where a disused CUMBERIAND AND WESTMORELAXD. 27 lime-kilu points out the particular locality of the impure limestone' beds. The Coniston or Brathay flags may be well seen in some fine quarries at Brathay, between Ambleside and Hawkeshead. Above the Coniston flagstone wc have first a series of gritty beds (named by Professor Sedgwick the Conis- ton grits), and then coarse dark-coloured fissile or schistose beds, in the upper portion of which the slatij cleavage is but httle developed. They may, perhaps, be regarded as middle silurian. The series of rocks next in the ascending order has been divided by Professor Sedgwick into the Ireleth, the Howgill, and the Kendal group, named from the locahties where each is best exhibited. The Ireleth group consists of quartzose slates, with intei-veuing bauds of impure limestone ; the Howgill or lui'kby Moor group has a more arenaceous character in its lower portion, and the upper is made up of micaceous flags and schists extremely fossiliferous. They occupy a large area over the greater portion of Low Fumess in Lancashire, the whole of the south of Westmore- land (excepting the portion covered by the carboniferous limestone), as far east as the valley of the Luue, and reaching up to the great Pennine fault. They may, however, bo well considered as one series, or more simply subdivided into Ireleth slates, and Hayfell and Kirkby Moor flags. — {Vide Geological Map.) Both the lithologioal character of these beds, and also the included fossils (upper silurian) indicate that some movement was going on continuously over this district during their deposit. The change in species between the Coniston limestone and flagstone and the superior Coniston grits is so great, as to have led Professor Sedgwick to the conclusion that we are here to look for the true termination of the Silurian series, and to place all the rocks below the Coniston grit in the series named by him many years ago from the locahty where they occur, the Cambrian ; but which seem, from their included fossils, to be on the same geological parallel with a portion of the Lower Silmiau strata of Sir Koderick I. Murchison. It is a remarkable fact, that this Cambrian series, as defined by Professor Sedgwick, contains seventy-two, at least, weU-ascertained species of fossils ; and that the remaining slate-beds above them in the lake district, which are certainly Upper Silurian, contain ninety- two species of fossils, whilst out of this large number of 165 species in all, not more than five are common to the two series. If, therefore, there be any good reason for separating the palreozoic rocks below the old red sandstone into the two divisions of Upper and Lower Silurian, or, as some have proposed, and as is noted in the table accom- panying the Geological Map, into three divisions, — Upper, Middle, and Lower Silurian, — the same reason seems to hold good for retaining the name Cambrian for the lower portion, as first named by Professor Sedg- wick from that part of North Wales where beds of the same age and contauiing similar fossils occur. By means of the igneous forces at work beneath the earth's crust, a tremendous convulsion took place, affecting the whole of this district after the deposit of the Kendal or Kirkby Moor group with its superior tilestone and before the formation of the old red conglomerate.' This convulsion elevated the district generally along an axis which runs from north-east to south-west through Skiddaw Forest and Grassmoor Forest. — [Vide Geological Map.) The consequence was that the lower rocks were brought up and elevated into ridges in such a way that their general dip was more rapid and pre- cipitous towards the north-west than towards the south- east and the general elevation of the district greater on the south-east than on the north-west side of the a.xis of convulsion. We may trace to this circumstance, perhaps, the fact that the beds on the north-west side are more sud- denly covered up by newer deposits and that the upper beds of the slate rooks, where they are seen on the south-east side of the lake district (as for instance about Kendal), are less contorted than on the opposite side of the axis of disturbance. The disturbance which so greatly afi'ected the Cum- berland and Westmoreland mountains appears to have been at the same time general in the British isles occurring just before the Devonian or old red sand- stone era. In the neighbouring Isle of Man, we have a parallel mountain range of the same age. We meet again with evidences of a like direction of movement occurring at the same period in Wales, in Ireland, and in the south and north of Scotland. We might well imagine some vast earthquake wave passing over the British isles, and leaving these indelible records of its transit in vast mountain piles whose crests run parallel to each other, and the circumstance of these ranges being more precipitous on the north-west than on the south-east side is one well worthy of consideration and may lead to speculation as to the direction in which the force of translation (so to speak) has acted. Such a speculation must not, however, be supposed to set aside considerations of the subsequent eilect of denudation and waste, due, perhaps, to the direction of powerful oceanic currents, acting upon these ranges at the period of their elevation and for ages afterwards. 28 GEOLOGY OF We come now to the next great division of the rocks of Cumberland and Westmoreland. These are the beds of the Old Red Sandstone and Conglomerate, belonging to the Devonian series. Li the ra\-ines and hollows formed by the last named great disturbance (in which the mountain ranges -would appear as a series of islands in the ancient ocean) were deposited a mass of boulders, pebbles, and sand, after- wards consolidated. Beds of such materials are found mantUng round the older slate rocks in the district of Cumberland and Westmoreland, as well as in other parts of the British Isles and resting unconformably upon them. And prior to their being deposited, a great wear and tear of the older rocks bad occurred, jagged edges being planed down so that the Old Red Conglo- merate often rests on a smooth surface, though uncon- formably to the dip of the older beds. The beds of Old Red Sandstone and Conglomerate are of very varying thickness. The circumstances under which they were accumulated will readily account for this fact. In the neighbourhood of the lake district, as in the Isle of Man, we seem to have before us merely the relics of the margin of the Devonian strata, which attain such enonnous proportions both in Scotland and in the south-west of England, but which arc here only feebly represented. I think one of the most iastructive localities for stu- dying the Old Red Sandstone is at Shap Abbey. Just across the stream eastward, opposite the abbey, is a fine escarpment of the Devonian series, capped with the Carboniferous Limestone. I have never yet seen a spot where the Carboniferous Limestone is unconformable to the Old Red Sandstone, though everywhere the conglo- merate rests on the upturned and worn edges of Silurian schists or tilestones. Such seems to be the case in the neighbourhood of the lake district, and the section at Shap Abbey e.'chibits it very finely. The Devonian series does not here appear more than thirty feet in thickness, resting upon upturned claret-coloured schists ; but at Mell Fell, on the northern side of Uileswatcr, the Old Red Conglomerate is of enormous thickness. Many yeare ago (in 18-48), in a publication embracing the geology of the Isle of Man, I hazarded a conjecture that the Old Red Conglomerates were accumulated in a sub-arctic climate. I grounded this conviction on a comparison of this formation with that of the vastly more recent Boulder Clay of the post tertiary period, which most, if not all the geologists of the present day, allow to have been accumulated under such climatal conditions. The degraded and smoothed surfaces of the rocks under the conglomerate can thus be readily accounted for. I have seen notliing since I hazarded the expression of that conviction to shake me in it, but rather still more to confirm me. It was at the time objected against me by the talented author of " The Old Red Sandstone" (the late deeply lamented Hugh Jliller), that there were found in some Devonian beds the remains of plants indicating a sub- tropical flora ; but my answer was and is that these plants are mostly found in a fragmentary condition, indicating that they had been transported from a distance, and we know that, through the action of the gulf stream, the tropical plants of the West Indies are now often found, not only on the north-west shores of Scotland, but even farther north. After such great disturbances and elevations of moun- tain chains occurring just before the Devonian period, there must have been a considerable change in the character of tlie climate of these islands, and the ten- dency would seem to have been to render them colder than at the immediately previous period. I have not been able, as I before stated, to discover any distinct evidence of convulsion occurring between the Old Red Sandstone and the Carboniferous deposits next supervening, including the Mountain Limestone with the superior Coal measures. But there seems to have occurred a quiet subsidence of this area through the whole carboniferous period, more intensely developed on the north-western side of the lake district, where the coal beds attain their greatest thickness. Such changes in the relative level of sea and land, if widely extended, as was probably the case, would produce also a change in climate, and hence it is no objection to the theory of the Old Red Conglomerate having been originated in a Rub-arctic climate, that the immediately supervening Carboniferous deposits exhibit the influence of a sub- tropical atmosphere and ocean. These deposits must have occupied vast ages in their formation; and we know that throughout the Tertiary period there are strata in close proximity with each other, indicating as violent changes in the climatal conditions of the area now occupied by the British Isles. To this circumstance of the subsidence of the area of Cumberland and Westmoreland during the Carbo- niferous deposits, is owing the fact that in most places they bury up and overlap the Old Red Sandstone, and are found resting on the silurian and Cambrian slates. This is more particularly the case along the northern and western edges of the lake district, owing to the causes which I have before alluded to, viz., tlie more rapid general dip of the beds, and also their greater waste and destruction whilst exposed in a shattered condition to the action of oceanic agents. ;UMBERLAND AND WESTMORELVND. 29 Tlie Jlountain Limestone loay liave surrouuded the lake district as a fringing coral reef; or, if we suppose that the first great distortion of the slates had not very greatly raised the area, it may have even overlapped the whole, and been subsequently denuded in that uprising of the country which I now proceed to notice. Towards the close of the Carboniferous period, after the deposition of the coal beds, and previous to the form- ation of the upper Xew Red Sandstone and probably of the Jlaguesian Limestone and Conglomerate and lower Xew Red Sandstone strata, the agencies at work beneath the crust of the earth raised up the entire lake district in a vast ellipsoidal dome, during which it was cracked and starred in directions generally at right angles to the axis of elevation. This axis of elevation lies along a curved line drawn through Scawfell (which appears as the point of greatest intensity of the elevating forces), from a little to the south of the Calder river on the west to Orton on the east, where it is cut across by the great limestone fault of the Pennine chain. From this axis the great north and south valleys run down at right angles, radiating, however, from each extremity like the spokes of a wheel. The inspection of even a common map of the district will illustrate this statement where the lakes them- selves rest, and the rivers flow in valleys formed in the lines of these faults ; but this is more distinctly indi- cated in the geological map accompanying this work. It is to this gigantic disturbance that we chiefly owe the present configuration and main features of this portion of the British Isles. It was a disturbance, however, not limited to this spot, but very general at that period, both in Europe and also in America. By it not only was the country of the English lakes eleva- ted in the manner I have just named, but its previously isolated character was altered to that of a peninsula. Previous to this event, during the deposit of at least a portion of the Cai-boniferous strata, the sea seems to have flowed continuously around the Lake District, a ridge was now formed which connected this district with the elevated tracts of the great Pennine chain, shutting up the channel on the eastern side of the Lake Country and forming a deep bay to the north- east, now occupied by the vale of Eden. In this bay and in the seas which subsequently washed the north-west and south of the Lake District, were then deposited the beds of the New Pied Sand- stone and of the Magnesian Limestone and Conglo- merate, which truly indicate the outline of that portion of the country occupied by the lakes of (Jumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancashire. Not any of these beds actually reach up to the lakes themselves, aud the same might be said of the Coal measures and ' the ] ilountain Limestone in then- present position, though it is probable, as I have before stated, that they did i overlap some portion of the lake area prior to its ele- I vation by the last-named general disturbance, by which j the valleys aud basius were originated in which the I lake waters repose. Whether the before-named elevation was sudden, or j continuous through a long period, we have not any j distinct evidence. It caused faults, traversing the lunestone beds, as is distinctly seen in the neighbom-hood of Kendal, and therefore it must have commenced after their deposi- tion. The Xew Red Sandstone also rests unconformably in many places on the Carboniferous deposits, and this circumstance indicates that some great elevation of the area had taken place in the interval between the two. But that the whole area of Cumberland and Westmore- land has also been further elevated since the deposit of the Xew Red Sandstone is shewn by its mchned posi- tion in several places, as for example about Furness Abbey and in the neighbourhood of St. Bees. It is highly probable, though not absolutely certain, that very shortly after the deposit of the Coal measures, and the Magnesian Limestone and Conglomerates, and prior to the formation of the upper Xew Red Sandstone, occurred that remarkable con/ulsion which first elevated the Pennine chain in the east of Cumberland and West- moreland, and gave the principal features to the eastern boundary of these two counties. It will be seen, by reference to the geological map, that along the eastern side of the vale of Eden, a remarkable dislocation of the limestone strata has taken place. A magnificent waU of carboniferous limestone towers aloft to a height, in some places, of more than two thousand five hundi'ed feet above the plain of Cariisle aud the valley in which the Eden flows. Beds of the very same hmestone are buried under the Red Sandstone of these plains. On the eastern side of this axis of disturbance, the strata dip gently towards the plains of Yorkshire, but on the western side of it they are thrown down in a more precipitous manner, dipping at angles vai-yiug from 30° to 8U\ and in some places ai-e placed on end, or vertically. Along this axis, between Brampton and Brough. the lower rocks of the Silurian series are, for a distance of ten mUes, frequently thrust through, forming conical hills, as at Duftou Pike, Knock Pike, Keisley Pike, and Murton Pike, overtopping the lower edge of the Carbon- iferous Limestone. A small strip, also, of Old Red Conglomerate manifests itself in the neighbourhood of Hilton. The distortion and confusion of stota along 30 GEOLOGY OF this magnificent line of disturbance, is such as to render it extremely dilScult to trace correctly each rock, and to lay it down on a geological map. The tattered and zig-zag character of what have been termed the edge beJs, latUcs all attempts at correct delineation on a reduced scale of the country, though the leading fea- tures are sufficiently obvious. The dislocation and distortion becomes even more than ordinarily compli- cated in those parts where the general direction of the line of fault is disturbed, and forms re-entering angles, as in the country from Brough towards Ravenstone- dale. No doubt this is due iu a great measure to the influences of other faults which intersect this great axis of dislocation, as those of Cross Fell, Kirby Stephen, and Lunedale. This magnificent dislocation of strata is not confined to the eastern side of the vale of Eden, but reaches down to the south in an irregular line as far as Kirby Lonsdale, near which place it is cut across at right angles by the double Craven fault, which runs in a direction thence nearly east-south-east for thirty miles to Warfedale. In like manner, the northern extremity of this great axis of disturbance, which has received the name (not altogether a correct one) of the Pennine fault, is cut across at right angles by another called the Tynedale fault, which runs eastward, with some irregularity, for a distance of fifty miles, to New- castle-upon-Tyne. The course of the Pennine fault from Brampton to Brough is south-east by south; at this latter point it turns in a direction south-west by south to aear Kirby Lonsdale, and its total length from the point where it is intersected by the Tynedale fault till it meets the double Craven fault is not less than fifty-five miles. I have said that the period of the first disturbance which dislocated the strata in this direction must pro- bably be between the time of the deposit of the Mague- sian Limestone and that of the New Red Conglomerate. The evidence for such a supposition is this: It may be taken as an almost general rule, well established by observation and mathematical calculation, that faults in the same district at right angles to each other are contemporaneous. Hence we argue that the Tynedale fault and the Craven faults were contemporaneous with the formation of the Pennine range. In confirmation of this view we may also observe that in the Tynedale fault the strata on the northern side of the disruption are tlirown down and in the Craven faults those on tho south. Now, if we examine closely the Tynedale fault we shall find near Newcastle that it has distinctly affected not only the Coal Measures but also the lower New Red Sandstone and the Maguesian Limestone. I have be- fore stated that tho upper New Rod Sandstone is in some places unconformable to the Carboniferous Lime- stone, the Coal, and the Magnesian Limestone ; and if this want of conformity could be distinctly traced to the effects of that disturbance which originated the Tynedale, Pen- nine, and Craven faults, we should be able very approx- imately to fix the date of that remarkable phenomenon. At the upper eud of the valley of the Eden, we have a partial development of beds of the Magnesian Lime- stone and Conglomerate in such a situation in reference to the overlying New Red Sandstone, as to lead to the suspicion that the want of conformity between them might be due to some elevation of the Pennine chain. The Carboniferous series of Cumberland and West- moreland (more distinctly developed as we cross the border of the counties into Yorkshire), consists of the mountain limestone strata, the millstone grit, and the coal measures. The Mountain Limestone may itself also be resolved into an upper and lower division. The lower limestone consists of dark beds of a very pure limestone, full of shells, corals, and crinoidea, and is that portion of the series chiefly exhibited in the coun- ties of Cumberland and Westmoreland. On the east side of the vale of Eden, under Cross Fell, we find mixed up with it some gritty beds, with shale, and poor coal. Its total thickness varies from 500 to 800 feet, or even more. The upper Limestone strata, or Yoredale rocks, of Professor Phillips, consists of Hmestoue, grits, shale, chert, and thin seams of coal increasing more and more towards the north. Fossils are extremely abundant in these beds, brachiopoda and crinoidea being prevalent iu the limestones, and terrestrial plants in the coal and grit. The alternation of beds seems to point to au alternate rising and sinking of this area during the period of their deposition. They may be well studied iu the rich mining district of Alston Moor, at Hesket Newmarket, and Cockermouth, near Dalton in Low Furness, and further south agaiu about Kirby Lons- dale, and, crossing the border, they may be finely observed in Dentdale, and under lugleborough Fell and Wernside. To the Mountain Limestone succeeds the Millstone Grit, hardly seen in Cumboland and Westmoreland, except iu the extreme north-eastern portion of the former county, and in a degenerate form in the neighbourhood of Cockermouth. Generally speaking it increases in thickness towards the south. It may almost be re- garded as a lower member of the great Coal formation, and it contains a few thin seams of coal. On the eastern side of the Pennine range, the millstone grit assumes larger proportions, and a remarkably tabular mass of it forms the summit of Ingleborough. CUMBERLAND AXD -WESTMOKELAND. 31 Tlie trae coal formation which next succeeds the above is of extreme importance to the prosperity of Cum- berland and "Westmoreland. In the former alone of the two counties it is developed. From near St. Bees Head it extends along the coast by Whitehaven and Workington to Maryport, thence its uortheni boun- dary is a curved line foUowiug partly the course of the Ellen river, and then bending eastward to near Blen- nerhasset and Rosely Hill, where it suddenly terminates. It occupies a breadth inland of about sis miles in its southern portion, gradually diminishing northwards. On its northern edge the coalfield is overlaid by the New Red Sandstone, under which no doubt it would in many places be found, though it might not be at depths at present remunerative in the working. It appears again over a little space in the north-west of Cumber- land, mantling round a nucleus of Mountain Limestone in the neighbourhood of Aikton and Little Brampton. The total thickness of the coal-bearing strata in the neighbourhood of Whitehaven is hardly less than three hundred yards, — being made up of many seams, the greater portion unworkable ; but one of them, the main band, bemg ten feet in thickness, and wrought with great earnestness. The dip of the beds being seaward, the excavations have been carried under the bed of the sea. Before leaving the consideration of the carboniferous strata, a word or two should be said respecting a sin- gular igneous mass interpolated in them. The Whin- Sill, as it is called, is a great mass of basalt and greenstone iuterstratified with the lower rocks of the Yoredale series, and exliibited along the southern and western brows of Cross Fell, the great Pennine range, along the eastern side of the vale of Eden, passing round the northern end along the escarpment of Moun- tain Limestone into Teesdale, and thence stretching eastward into Northumberland. Its thickness and composition are variable. In some places, as at Hilton Beck, it is not more than twenty-four feet in thickness ; at Caldron Snout, on the other hand, it attains a thick- ness of more than two hundred and forty feet. It has greatly altered the beds underneath it, whilst those above it, except at Caldron Snout, are not much changed. From these circumstances, as well as from the vast extent of country in which it is exhibited, with a general conformity to the beds of the carboniferous series, I conclude that it has been poured out in the carboniferous sea, perhaps at two or three intervals, from some great vent in the neighbourhood of Caldron Snout. We have an analogous formation in beds of apparently the same age in the south of the Isle of JIan, which I have described in a memoir read before the Geological Society of London, in 1848. The Manx whin bed (consisting of basalt greatly altering the underlying limestone, of trap ash and trap breccia), is remarkable for an interposed bod of black limestone, containing peculiar organic remains, and in the beds of trap ash we also meet with Mountain Limestone fossils. I am not aware that any organic remains have yet been discovered in the AMiin-Sill of the Pennine range, but it is quite possible that they may hereafter be found in the more ashy portion, or iit that which approaches the character of a volcanic breccia. Altogether, the phenomena of the Whin-Sill are of a most interesting character, and will greatly repay the visit of the geologist to the localities where it is developed. It has been fully described, together with its accompanying whin dykes rising up in the form of basaltic walls, by Professor Sedgwick, Mr. Hutton, and Professor Phillips. Over the coal measures spreading out far and wide in the north of Cumberland, from Brough, at the head of the vale of Eden, to the shores of the Solway Frith, and across the border into Scotland (forming the extensive plain of Carlisle), we have a series of beds deposited in water to which the name of the Xew Pied Sandstone formation has been given. A strip of this same forma- tion occupies the low ground to the west of the Cumber- land mountains, along the sea shore from St. Bees Head to the Duddon river ; it is also spread out in Low Fumess, and again on the southern shores of Morecambe Bay, whence it reaches through the plains of Lancashire and Cheshire, through Staffordshire, Warwickshire, the southern parts of Derbyshire, and' the northern of Leicestershire, and so round through Nottinghamshire and Yorkshire to the mouth of the Tees. It nowhere occupies a high level. At the period of its being formed, the sea washed the sides of the moimtains surrounding the lake district. Its colour on a geological map points out pretty distinctly what was the amount of land above the level of the sea at the commencement of the secondary period. It is made up of three principal divisions, the lowest consisting of red marl and red sandstone, the equiva- lents of the Hoihe todteliegende of the continental geolo- gists ; the middle portion is a magnesian limestone and conglomerate, as seen under St. Bees Head, and a mag- nesian breccia, as seen near Brough and at Stenkrith Bridge, near Kirby Stephen, at the head of the vale of Eden ; the upper consists of red gypseous marls and red sandstone, with accumulations of gypsum, as seen in various parts of the plain of Carlisle. The two former divisions belong certainly to the Permian strata, as also, jirohably, does a portion of the latter. It is not unlikely, however, that the discovery of organic remains, such as have been found in Cheshire, may hereafter determine a 32 GEOLOGY OF considerable portion of the upper Kew Ked Sandstone of Cumberland and AVestmoreland to belong to the Trias, or lowest beds of the Secondary period. A wide gap now occurs in the geological history of this portion of England. In other parts of England and the world there occurs a vast series of deposits, viz., those of the whole of the Secondarj' period from the New Red Sandstone upwards, and the whole of the Tertiary up to the boulder clay, of which there seems to be no record whatever here. I would by no means liave it inferred that I believe that any of these strata at any time absolutely covered this district, and were afterwards borne away, though such 7night have been the case. I am rather inclined to believe that this portion of the British Isles lay above the sea-line during the whole of this long period, and that no maiine deposits were then being spread upon it. This is, however, a mere matter of geological speculation, respecting which anyone may venture to e.xpress what- ever opinion he pleases. It seems, however, pretty certain that at the commencement of the Boulder Clay period, which is the next of which we have any traces in the lake district, the whole country was in the condi- tion of dry laud, which sank gradually beneath the waves of an icij sea and as gradually rose again. The period is one deeply interesting to the geologist as the connecting link between the past and present in the history of the condition of our globe. It is a period geologically recent, though beyond the date of all human record ; but it may not necessarily be beyond the period of the existence of the human race on the globe. Strange enough, though so recent in a geological sense, it is one respecting wiiich more doubt and uncertainty exists than perhaps any other. One reason is, that this formation, for it is truly such (as much so as the Old Red Conglo- merate, or any of the older water-moved, sedimentary strata), was, till very recently, looked upon as a mere surface accumulation, such as the Noachian deluge was presumed to have left behind. There is, however, no scriptural or physical evidence that the flood of Noah was of a violent character, but rather the reveree. The Bible describes the rivers, for instance, which watered the garden of Eden, by names and courses known as existing in the daj-s of Moses. The existence of the same river courses before and after the Noachian deluge is an evidence against any violent cataclysmal action on the surface of the eai-th. The flood of Noah answered all the purposes of the Almighty as a judgment on our guilty race, and as an everlasting warning. But had it been of that violent character which some have assigned to it, in order to account for the transport of vast masses of rock over hundreds of miles, the ark of man's safety must itself have been dashed to atoms, without some special miracle for its preservation, of which we have not even a hint in Holy Writ ; and we should also find buried in the debris some relics of the family of man, which we do not find. It may be well here to notice more particulaily the various phenomena connected with the Boulder Clay and Drift period, as truly represented to us in the Lake Dis- trict;— they will, perhaps, help us to an understanding of the agencies at work in this particular locality for a vast series of ages. Any person who chooses may go and certify himself of the following facts in the valleys and mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland. If we e.xamine the sides and bottom of the valleys, more especially those which run north-east and south-west, we shall notice — first, that they are scratched, smoothed, polished, and grooved in a particular manner ; — that in many places are accumulations of both boulders and angular fragments of rock. He will notice that not only are the boulders and rocky fragments scratched and scored in a remarkable manner, but that, on removing a mass of the debris, the solid rock under- neath is also carved with lines running parallel with the general direction of the valleys. Now, such a phenomenon might be accounted for by the descent of glaciers from tlie mountain summits, bearing along on their surface the fragments of rock torn by the power of frost from the beetling crags which tower aloft in the midst of this region of mountain peaks of slate and porphyry ; and, perhaps, we might rest satisfied with this solution of the phenomena if we study only the valleys of the lake district. But let us ascend the sides of the valleys till we come to the sum- mits of the ridges by which they are formed, and let us mount some of the eminences that seem to bar their openings into the more level country. Still the same phenomena present themselves to our view. The ridges running out on each side of the valleys are scored and polished — there are transported blocks of porphyry and slate perched upon every ridge and knoll. We may here be told that this is merely the extension of the glacier action — that the glacier filled up the whole of the vallej-, and obtruded itself over the ridge, and crowned every neighbouring summit. Such a suppo- sition is not beyond the bounds of possihilitij, though scarcely ^.roJ«6?(? if viewed in connection with the extent of the mountain peaks aud snow-fields which are requi- site for generating glaciers of such magnitude. But there is another phenomenon to be accounted for, and that is, that boulders of the rocks of the lake dis- trict are found, not only in the valleys and on elevated ridges and eminences of the lake district, but carried CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. towards the south far over the plains of Lancashire and Cheshire, and reaching down into Staffordshire, and resting upon the hills of Derbyshire ; and, to the south-east, carried across the great Pennine chain, occu- pying the plains of Yorkshire as far as Holderness, and the cliffs of the east coast of England. It seems diffi- cult to allow simple glacier action to have resulted in phenomena such as these. Some have imagined the phenomena to be due to diluvial action, and have stated that great oceanic waves dashed over the land in particular dii'ections, can-ying away vast fragments of rock over hills and valleys, strewing them to a considerable distance, and leaving them here and there in vast heaps. Others, again, have suggested that not one set, but sevei'al sets of waves have been generated, at different geological epochs, by the upheaval of mountain summits displacing vast bodies of water, and causing a drift of the disintegrated masses seaward. There is no doubt but that the sudden uprising of mountain chains would produce powerful waves ■which could move masses of rock to a certain distance, but there is no extraneous and independent evidence of such tremendous convulsions having occurred in the boulder period. We do not, for instance, as far as I am aware, find pleiocene beds tilted up by mountain elevations in the neighbourhood of boulder clay de- posits, at least not in the British Isles ; nor am I aware that ever in the historic period has the elevation of a range of country transported to a great distance such vast masses of rock and debris as are presented in the formation of which I am speaking. There are, besides, in the boulder clay itself, very clear proofs to my mind, that it was not produced by violent cataclysmal action. These proofs I have stated elsewhere, and this is not the place to go into them. — (Vide Quarterly Journal of the Proceedings of the Geo- logical Society of London, vol. vii., page 1-3, Ac, 1849. I may mention, however, just one powerful argument against the diluvial theory; and it is this. Not only are the rocks under the boulder-clay grooved, scratched, and pohshed in certain directions, but also the rocks and boulders in it : and the boulders are scratched, not merely crosswise, but along their length, — proving that they must, during this scratching process, have been held tight in some matrix, and not rolled loosely along in water. Now, it is always the safest plan in geo- logical mvestigation, to assume that the surface of our globe has always been acted upon by the same or neai-ly the same agencies as at present are at work in modifying it. All the differences in temperature and climate, for instance, which from geology we learu 5 have existed in past ages at any particular locality, we may easily conclude to have originated from a dif- ferent arrangement of the sea and land. When we find, in the present day, in the southern hemisphere icebergs along the west coast of South America, in latitudes corresponding with Spain and Southern Italy in our northern hemisphere, there is no difficulty in allowing that with a different configuration of the land in the northern hemisphere they may formerly have existed in the seas surrounding Great Britain, and that our mountains may have been clothed with glaciers reaching even down to the sea. Let us, therefore, assume that this was the case at the close of the pleiocene period, and, at the same time, that there was first a gradual subsidence, or sinking down, of the area occupied by the British Isles (such as we know now to be going on as respects a portion of Scandinavia), and that there was subsequently a gradual re-elevation of this area, what then would be the consequence ? The mountains clothed in glaciers would constantly be send- ing down masses of rock into the valleys, these valleys often terminating with the character of the Norwegian fiords. At first some of these glaciers might end off before they reached the sea, depositing then: remains at various levels, and scratching and grooving the bottom and sides of the valleys iii their progress. Some of them would reach even into the sea itself, and this would ultimately (as the land went down) be the case with all of them. The extremities of these glaciers, with their superincumbent load of scratched rocks, ' would then be torn off, and, by the action of currents, drifted out to sea or stranded upon neighbouring shores; along these shores, also, would be foimed ice-floes and coast-ice, rising and sinking by the action of the tide, and oftentimes driven by the foi-ce of the winds high and diy upon the land ; there is no difficulty in accounting in this way for all the appearances of scratching and grooving which we find on rocks under the boulder clay and in it. We have no difficulty in accounting in this way for the transport of bloclis (large or small), of pebbles, gravel, and sand, from one locality to another, how- ever distant. Nor have we any great difficulty in solving in this way the most remarkable phenomena of all connected with this period, namely, the elevation within very short distances of immense masses of rocks from a lower to a much higher level, without presuming upon the intervention of any violent diluvial action. Many years ago I pointed out a very remarkable example of this kind of transport in the Isle of Man. Blocks of the South Barrule granite are there elevated from their parent rock to a height of above 800 feet above it, within the distance of two mUes. I then pre- 34 GEOLOGY OF it possible that, being frozen in coast-ice, they had been driven upwards by powerful waves of translation, originating in the elevation of some unknown inouutai)i chain, or it might be the elevation of Cumberland and some portion of Scotland. I do not now say that this is impossible, but I think it not very probable. Wc are indebted to that eminent naturalist and antarctic esplo- rator, Mr. Charles Darwin, for what I believe to be the proper solution of this apparent dilhculty. It has already been pai'tly alluded to. As the land went down, the sea retaining, of course, its own general level, the blocks of slate, porphyry, or gi'anite, frozen into ice, were continually stranded higher and higher, relatively with the land. Many were, of course, carried out to sea and dropped at lower levels, and some, by this con- tinued wear and tear of the stranding, woiild be ground down to powder; but others, also, would remain and be driven upon the sides, or even perched on the top of every mountain peak which just jutted up above the sea, and when the whole of this area was again elevated, whether suddenly or gradually (as I believe), these blocks would be left in every position, from the summit of a mountain down to its deepest valleys, just as we now find them. And in this way wo can easily account for the spread of the rocks of the lake district not only over the plains of Lancashire, Chesliire, Warwicksliire, and Staf- fordshire, and upon the sides of the Lancashire and Derbyshire hills, but also their transport over the pass of Stanemoor, across the Pennine chain, into the valleys and plains of Yorkshire, and far away to the eastern shores of England. To take, for example, the transport of the boulders of Shap granite, so remarkable and distinct in its character that it can be recognised in hand specimens : glaciers descending from the eastern side of the lake district would transport masses of this granite into the vales of the Eden and the Lune. During the gradual submergence of this area let us suppose a general arctic current from the north-west, such as now flows in the same direction from Davis Straits, impinging on the shores of Great Britain. Its general course would be modified by the straits through which, in different places, it would have to pass, and its direction would be altered at particular spots by the alteriug condition of the coast during sub- mergence. The blocks brought down into the vale of Eden would first be drifted up higher and higher at the southern end of that valley, whilst those in the valley of the Lune might remain almost comparatively unmoved. At one period of the submergence the elevated land connecting the lake district witli the Pennine chain would be placed under the sea, and the current would flow on. between the lake country and what is now Yorkshire uninterruptedly to the south and south-west. Many blocks would be borne in this manner altogether away, but some would be driven up on the east shore. Ulti- mately the submergence would be such as to allow of the water of the ocean flowing on to the east and south- east through the pass of Stanemoor. When this was the case, a very powerful current would be generated through this channel, forcing its way from the lake mountains (then appearing as a series of islands in an arctic sea), directly into the sea covering the area which is now Yorkshire and the east of England. In this way blocks might then be transported direct from the granite boss of Wastdale Crag, near Shap Wells, through the Pennine chain, without any intervention of a glacier descending into the sea. I myself think this very probable. What the climate of the lake district was during and immediately after its re-elevation, we may not be very positive, yet there is good reason for believing that it continued of an arctic character, and that the moun- tains, when again upraised, were covered with snow and glaciers. I have noticed in several places accumulations in the valleys having greatly the appearance oi moraines; for instance, between Crummock-water and Loweswater, betw'een Seatoller and Rosthwaite, in the vale of St. John, at the head of Hawswater, and at the foot of Langdale. Now though as respects the scratching and grooving of the rocks at any spot, there is no reason why it may not have taken place prior to the submergence of the district ; yet, as respects the moraines, I think they would all have been carried away, or greatly spread out, by the force of the waves of the sea during the sinking and uprising again of the land, so as to leave no marked traces of them. The continued existence of the mo- raines (if, indeed, the noticed accumulations be such), indicates, therefore, a cold chmate for some time after the lake district began to re-emerge from the waters of the ocean. During this upheaval there would be con- siderable denudation, both of the hard rock, split up by the frosts and shattered by the impinging of icebergs, but more especially would the materials of the boulder clay be liable to a re-sorting and re-distribution ; and all these would be spread out far and wide over the sea bottom, in varying forms, the larger boulders nearest the mountains, the pebbles and coarse gravel farther olT, and, still farther, fine mud and sand; also whilst the more arctic climate continued they would all be conveyed occasionally to great distances, and dropped on the sea bottom far away from the lake district. The extent of the submergence of the lalie district is an interesting matter of speculation. Assuming the truth of the theory of its sinking down quietly in an icy sea, unaffected by violent cataclysmal action, the CUMBERLAND AND -W-ESTMOKELAND. 35 extreme height on the mountains at which any stranded .blocks are found will be an evidence that the sea reached at least up to that particular point, or rather that the land had gone do\fn so far into the icy waters. On evidence of this Idnd I have elsewhere shewn (vol. i. " Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal ") the probabihty that the neighbouring Isle of Man went down, as respects the present relative level of land and sea, at least 1,600 feet at that period. On Moel Tryvaen, in North Wales, there are deposits of the glacial epoch at the height of more than 1,800 feet above the present sea line. I set down the submergence of the lake district at about the same amount. It must evidently have been sufficient to place the pass of Stane- moor under water, unless we should choose to affirm that the Pennine range has been elevated to its present position unconnectedly with the lake district since the glacial period, or that the granite blocks travelled into Yorkshire by some method diflerent to that which we have supposed. Another question remains, namely, what was the extent of the re-elevation, — what the amount of the re-emergence immediately after the glacial epoch ? I am not at present aware that the counties of Cumber- land and Westmoreland afford any clear evidence per se. The raised beaches round about the Solway Firth and Morecambe Bay, and the cav»s in the neighbourhood of St. Bee's, taken in connection with similar phenomena occurring on all the coasts of the Irish Sea, have led me to the following conclusion. Towards the end of the glacial period the whole of the area of what is now the Irish Sea was so far elevated that the previous sea-bed became dry land. A vast treeless plain was formed connecting all the surrounding countries, and similar to the barren lands of the present day round about Hudson's Bay, in North America. Over this plain ranged the Cervus Mcgaeeros, or Great Irish Elk, whose remains are abundantly found upon it in fresh water marls, occupying basin-shaped depressions. After the formation of the vast treeless plain the land became stationary for a long period, probably many thousand years, during which the sea quietly eat back its way into the drift-gi-avel plain and excavated deep caverns in the soUd rocks, whenever they formed the coast hne. These caverns are seen at heights of from fifteen to twenty-five feet above the present sea level. In this way a separation between the Isle of Man and Great Britain aud Ireland was again effected. A re-union, however, again occurred at a subsequent period by a farther elevation of the Irish Sea. A con- necting plain was again formed. And that the country became covered in many places with wood, and the climate had greatly altered in its character and become milder, is also evident. Yet this was not the last change. A partial subsidence again occurred, which may have happened within the human, or historic period. The forests were buried under the sea : the remains of them, with beds of peat, are found on all our coasts between the present high and low water mark, and they even reach down some way beyond the low water line. The facts I have stated are becoming more and more distinct every day. As to whether the explanation of them which I have proposed be correct or no, each one will form his o\vn opinion. We are thus brought down from the earliest period of the geological history of the counties of Cumber- land and Westmoreland to those pages which relate to their present physical condition and the agencies which are now at work in modifying it. To describe the present features and scenery of these counties is not the object of this notice, as they are graphically given by an abler pen in another portion of this work, aud there- fore I shall make only one or two remarks in reference to changes which they are now undergoing. The quantity of detritus brought down year after year by the mountain riUs and rivtdets is exceedingly small, and Professor Sedgwick has remarked, with his usual acumen, that " the erosion of the rivers and torrents, liowever indefinitely continued, could not account for the hollows and inequalities of any one of our mountain chains." Yet it is evident from the deltas which actually have accumulated where these rivulets enter the lakes, that had they been playing their part through a very long lapse of ages these lakes must now have been quite filled up, unless there were some agents at work to remove the material so collected. The real mystery seems to be, why were not these hoUows com- pletely filled with boulders, gravel, sand, and clay during the glacial epoch, when glaciers were descending into them, or they were buried far below in the glacial sea ? The depth of Wastwater, for e.xample, is in some places forty -five fathoms, so that its bottom is upwards of 100 feet below the level of the sea. Y'et it is not formed by the accumulation of detritus at the bottom of the valley in which it lies, for the river flowing from it is actuaUy cutting its way thi-ough the solid rock. (I have obsei-ved a similar phenomenon in reference to Loch Ness, in Scotland.) I think this circumstanie of its depth is a proof that it has not, geologically speaking, been long elevated above the action of the sea. Wast- water is formed (as, indeed, aU our Enghsh lakes are formed) in a great fault or dislocation of the strata. On the southern side the shores are extremely steep, and the depth of the water rapidly increases from the shore. 36 GEOLOGY OF Now, at the present time, in the area of the Irish Sea, between the coasts of the Isle of Man and Mull of Gal- loway, there is a deep chasm existing, so that in one place the plumb-line goes down aU at once from between eighty and ninety to one hundred and forty and one hundred and fifty fathoms. Yet this chasm is kept per- petually open, and whilst the sea has been flowing over it perhaps thousands of years no accumulation of gravel and sand has taken place in this natural cavity. Now, in the same manner in -which this submarine valley is kept from being filled up, might the EngHsh and Scotch lakes be kept open at the period in which they were submerged below the sea level. If, therefore, vre could accurately measure the deltas which have been pushed forward into them by the actual mountain-streams now at work, and determine the exact addition made to these deltas year by year ( however small ), we might approxi- mate to the time which has elapsed since the upheaval of the sm-face above the level of the sea. In the account above given of the geology of Cumber- land and Westmoreland our attention has hitherto been almost exclusively given to the sedimentary strata, that is to say, to the strata which have been deposited in the form of mud, sand, and boulders, by mechanical action in the waters of the primeval ocean. But, as I have shewn, these strata have, in many places, been fre- quently disturbed or altered in their appearance by the intrusion of, or contact vrith, other rocks of a veiy dif- ferent kind, forced up in a molten or semi-fluid con- dition fi'om the bowels of the earth. An account of the district would be very incomplete without some notice of these so called igneous rocks, that is, the granite, syenite, porphyries, and trap rocks, which burst through and over- lie the sedimentary rocks, or dislocate and alter them in various places. The granite seems to claim our first attention, not because of the age of its absolute eruption, respecting which we can affirm little positively, but because it has generalhj been regarded as forming the lads of the stratified deposits, and exhibits itself as a nucleus round which are folded many of our mountain chains. There are tliree remarkable kinds of granite rock pre- senting themselves to our notice in the area of the lake country, and it has been remarked as a fact well worthy of study, that these varieties break out apparently unconnected, and only one is found in each of the three groups, into which the slate rocks of this district have been divided. In the Skiddaw slate, we have bursting out in the valleys of the Caldcw, and near Syningill, between Saddli;back and Skiddaw, a granite, composed of dark mica, grey quartz, and light coloured felspar. This has usually been regarded as the oldest granite iu the district. It is certainly newer than the Skiddaw slate, as it has altered and elevated it, but there is no distinct^ evidence of its intrusion amongst the porphyries and green slates, though it seems associated with that first great general disturbance, which we have noticed as affecting the lake district along au axis passing through tins spot. By far the largest development of Cumberland granite is found ranging from Bootle nearly to Scawfell, on both sides of the Mite and the Esk, in the middle division of the slate series. It is of vaiying texture, generally reddish, with a deficiency of mica, thus passing into syenite, sometimes earthy in structure, sometimes as- suming the spheroidal form of basalt, at others forming compact semi-columnar rocks. It appears at Nether AVastdale Head to pass into the great mass of fine grained red sj^enite, wh^ch runs northwards through the mountains of Ennerdale, and which may be well studied at Reveling Pike, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, and in the neighbourhood of Floutern Tai-n, and Scale Force. The fine Red Porphyritic Granite, or Wastdale Crags, near Shapwells, has before been alluded to. Its pecu- liarity consists in the large crystals of red felspar, which are interspersed iu a more compact base of grey and red felspar, with specks of dark mica and quartz. It has pierced and metamorphosed the slates and flags of the uppermost division, and has cut off the Coniston lime- stone at AVastdale Head. It must, therefore, be more recent than these rocks, but of its actual age we have no clear evidence. The vast number of basaltic, poi-phyritic, and syenitic dykes and masses which protrude themselves in the greatly disturbed district of the lakes, woidd occupy too ranch room separately to describe. \\e meet with them on the south side of Black Combe, in the bed of the Duddon, at Hawskead, in the valley above High Borough Bridge, in Wet Sleddale, iu Kirk Fell, at Armboth near Thirlmere, in the vale of St. John, on Carrock Fell, between Tottlcbank Fell and Brown Hall, in the moun- tains of Buttemere, westward about Scawfell, and at the head and foot of Wastwater. The red porphyritic rock of St. John's vale, three miles from Keswick, with the intersecting dyke from Armboth Fell, and the syenite of Carrock Fell, with its crystals of hyperstheno and intermingled titaniferous iron ore, are particularly worthy of study, and will well reward the collector of the rocks and minerals of this district. It is not the object of this geological notice to enter upon a description of the mines and minerals of these counties, they belong rather to the subject of CVMBEELAND AND -nESTMOrEL-^Nr. 37 mineralogy and political economy. The rich mining district of AJston Moor is well known, and profit- able veins of lead and copper have been opened on Coniston Old Man, in Xewlands, on Garrock Fell, and Patterdale. The wad, or black-lead mine of Borrowd&le, has been long famous, the rich veins of hematite iron ore at Dalton, constitute some of the most valued sources of profitable export ; and the coal field of Whitehaven adds in no small degree to the mineral wealth of Cum- berland. To these, we have to add the magnificent products of flagstone and slate at Ingleton, Horton. Howgill, Kendal, Ireleth, Bootle, and Kii-kstone. The New Ked Sandstone strata also afford vast supplies of building materials, a fact which may be well studied in the magnificent quarries in the neighbourhood of Carlisle in the north, and near Fumess Abbey in the south. AVith these must be taken into consideration the beds of Gypsum, which are scattered iu various parts of the great New Red Sandstone Plain, stretching northward and westward from the vale of Eden. Let us now, before parting with the subject, take a rapid review of the Geological History of Cumberland and Westmoreland, gathering into small compass the facts which have been stated at length in the preceding pages. What vast ages has the mind to hurry through in such a review, ages not to be measured by the revolutions of oiu- planet about tlie centre of our solai- system, but of the sun itself, with that nebular cluster of stars of which it is but an insignificant uuit about some vastly far-off and unseen centre of stellar gravity. The mists of chaos roU away, and there spreads out before us a mighiy ocean, beneath whose depths are being deposited beds of dark blue impalpable mud, des- tined hereafter to be exhibited in the form of Skiddaw Slate. Respecting the denizens of this ocean we know nest to nothing, they may have been many or few : but their organisation, at least judging from the scanty remains of them hitherto met with, was cf the lowest type. Ere long the sea bottom is distxu-bed and ele- vated, and masses of molten matter aie poured forth over it from volcanic vents. Showers of ashes and pumice darken the air, and falling back into the waters are spread out in layers over extensive areas. Again and again the convulsive outpourings occur. Through long periods the waves of ocean dash against coasts of porphvTy and green stone, and wearing them gradually away, deposit the spoils in the form of large sheets of plutonic mud. A troublous time is it for all organised beings whilst these green slates and porphyries of Cum- berland and Westmoreland are being elaborated. At length there is a period of comparative rest, and corals and zoophytes multiply and replenish the waters of the deep. The Coniston hmestone, though of no great thickness, covers a large area, exteuding beyond the lake country; and there is no doubt it must have required m:my an age for its formation. In the same period of quiesence must have been deposited also the next, superior Coniston flags. But the scene shifts again, and we have before us an ocean teeming with life, but that life greatly differing in character from that which had previously existed. In the Coniston grits, the Ireleth slates, and the Hay- fell and Kirby ;Moor flags ^^ which come next in order as a lake district group), we meet with the remains of animals of which not six per cent are of the same species as those which are found in the Coniston flags and all the rocks below. This is an evidence of some great change in the character of the sea bottom and the chmate of the period ; whence originating, can be httle more than a matter of geological speculation, yet ex- tremely interesting, when viewed as points of identifi- cation between the Lake District rocks and those of North and South Wales. After the elaboration of many hundred feet of such strata there comes again an epoch of great change. We look again upon the scene, and it is one of violent con- vulsion by which the whole of the Lake District is elevated on an axis, running irom north-east to south- west, from Skiddaw forest to the mountains of Enner- dale. Such a grand convulsion, not restricted to this locaUty, but extending through the British Isles, must ■ have greatly altered the contour of the sea and land, and with it the character of animal and vegetable lile, ushering in the Devonian and old Red Sandstone period. With it come strange ichthyic forms, the Pterichthys, Cephalaspis, Asterolepis, and Coccosteus. A stormy period of struggling elements is this, for first the jagged edges of the upturned slates are broken off, and the fragments worn down and rolled about into the form of boulders, which in some places accumulate to the depth of many hundred feet, I hold by the hypothesis of the existence of a somewhat arctic chmate, and the preva- lence of glacial action on the lake ri?giou dming some portion at least of this perioil. Tet change is pressing on and we are introduced in due time to the subtropical scenes of the carboniferous period, when giant tree ferns and lofty palms adorn the land, the dehcate nau- tilus ploughs tlie sunny surface of the sea and spreads forth its sail to the balmy breeze, and the ever active coral insect is building up the atol and the coral reef. Hence are originate*.! the coal-fields of Whitehaven and the thick deposits of mountain Hmestone mantling round the Cumberland and Westmoreland moimtains. It is 3S GEOLOGY OF CUMDERLAND AND WESTMORELAND. a period of gradual sinldng of the sen bottom, -nlien those masses of calcareous rock, destln' i ; ' : : > 1 . to pre- sent so elevated aud bold a west. i. great Pennine mnge, are being buiui->i ! i . m^ below the surface of the briuy waters wliich beat agiiiust the insulated peaks of Skiddaw, Helvellyn, ScawfeU, and Grassuioor. Again, the elevatory process succeeds, powerful in character as well as extensive in its effects, raising aloft the submerged beds aud giving an additional lift t'j the altitude of the Lake District, impressing in fact upon it the general contour which it is intended ulti- mately to possess. Now is formed the ridge of Orton seal's connecting this district with the Yorkshire range and cutting off the flow of the ocean on its eastern side. Presently is elevated the great Pennine range, and the lofty western escarpment of Cross Fell is formed. But the ocean no longer teems with zoophytic and coraline life, nor the land with the previously abundant tropical vegetation. There seems to be a dying out of all paleozoic forms of life, and the earth and ocean must be replenished with a new creation. But the ferruginous sea which spreads out the beds of sand destined ultimately to form the meadow lands of the Vale of Eden aud the plains of Carlisle, with those of Lancashire, Cheshire, and Staffordshire, seems little adapted to sustain as yet the new race. Either the marine organisms of the New Red Sandstone period are few and far between, or the character of its sand beds is unsuited to preserve and transmit to our gaze their remains. Amidst this uncertainty darkness settles down upon the scene, — a long night comes on in which we can, from our lake mountains, catch no sight of the wonder- ful creations which are going on in other regions. The whole of the Secondary period is a blank, and the Eocene, Meiocene, and Pleiocene of the Tertiary cannot be guessed at. Our story hurries on to its end. Dawn at length approaches, — a cold icy dawn, — and, as we stand shivering on our mountain summit, the howling of the wintry tempest, the roar of the avalanche, and the crash of icebergs, salute the ear. Erratic fragments from distant mountains, torn do-mi by the mighty, ever- working glacier, go careering by southwards, ploughing up the sea bottom in their progi-ess, and scratcliing and graving the far-off shores on which they are stranded, and vast boulders of granite are home away a hundred miles and more from the coasts of Cumberland aud Wesmoreland. At length day comes on, the arctic winds have ceased, and beneath a genial atmosphere the submerged plains again raise their heads above the waters. Upon these plains the magnificent megaceros goes bounding far away, whilst herds of fat bisons crop the verdant her- bage. Such are the scenes of the pleistocene era. Fm-ther stiU the land becomes covered with dense forests as it continues to rise from the bosom of the deep. Anon the elevating process ceases, and again there is a quiet sinking of a large portion of the previously uplifted area. The sea reclaims its own, and the forests are overthrown. " Piscium et summa genus hreret ulmo, Nota quae sedes fuerat columbis." Last upon this varying scene comes man; and the reign of the beasts of the field, the fowls of the ah-, and the fishes of the sea, gives way to that of him who was made to be monarch and lord over all. \nk\) d tlje Jake gistrkt The Lake District of EnglanJ, — that is, the mountain- ous region in which the lakes are enclosed, — occupies two counties, and extends over a part of a third. The highest mountains are on or near the boundary line between Cumberland and Westmoreland : but there are some lofty peaks and ridges, and several lakes and tarns in the detached portion of Lancashire, which lies beyond Morecambe Bay. The point of junction of the three counties is at a spot close by the road ou Wrynose, where three ancient stones, called the Shire Stones, have been from time immemorial so gi-ouped as that any person who chose to occupy them with three limbs, might boast of being in three counties at once. As these stones might easily be passed unnoticed, a more conspicuous mark, in the form of a pillar, has been recently set up by the public spirit of a resident of Ambleside. From this point, the boundaiy of Lanca- shire runs along the river Duddon to the sea ; and in the other direction, by Langdale Tarn and Elterwater to the head of Windermere. About half-way down the lake, it strikes the eastern shore, and follows the little river Winster into Morecambe Bay, near Medup. The highest mountain ridges divide Cumberland from West- moreland, the boundary line running over Bow Fell to DunmaUe Raise, then crossing Helvellyu, and passing through Glencoin, to strike the western shore of Ulles- water. Between Ulleswater and the river Eden, it follows the course of the Eamont. Thus, of the mountains, Coniston Old Man and Wetherlam are in Lancashire ; the Langdale Pikes, the Troutbeck and Eydal groups, and Place Fell are in Westmoreland : Skiddaw and Saddleback, the Borrowdale group, Scaw- fell, the Pillar, Great Gable, Grassmoor, and Black Combe are in Cumberland; while Wrynose, Bow Fell, and Helvellyu are ou the boundary lines. Of the larger lakes, Coniston, Esthwaite, and part of Win- dermere are in Lancashire ; Pijdal and Grasmere lakes, Haweswater, and a part of Windermere, and of Ulles- water are in Westmoreland : wliile Cumberland contains Thirlmere, Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite, Buttermere, Crummock Water, Loweswater, Ennerdale Lake, Wastwater, and part of Ulleswater. If Brothers' Water, (in Westmoreland) is included among the lakes, as it usually is, though only three-quaiters of a mile in length, and half a mile broad, the whole number is sixteen; of which two are in Lancashire, four in West- moreland, and eight in Cumberland ; while two are divided by boundary lines. The English mountain district, like every other, presents the likeness of a national citadel, well sur- rounded with out-works. The highest peaks are near the centre ; and to the highest peaks always belong the deepest valleys and most difficult passes. As the ridges spread outwards from the centre, they decline in height, then- valleys are shallower ; all the featm-es of the landscape ai'e milder, and the sldrts spread out in gentle undulations down to the plain or the sea. In the case of our English group, the ridges melt down into sea-shore, from the Solway, all round to the Lan- cashire coast; that is, for nearly two-thii-ds of its circumference; and the rest subside into the moor- lands of Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland. Frnm whatever direction the group is approached, — from the dreary sands of the Solway or Morecambe Bay, from the green shores of the western sea, or from the dai-k slopes of moorland to the east, the likeness to a vast citadel is equally striking. Here did race after race come for refuge, imder a series of 40 SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. invasions. The Britons fled hither from the Romans, and maintained themselves against the Saxons. The Saxons fled hither from the Normans ; and here they . resisted for centuries the amalgamation with their conquerors, which had taken place in all the southern parts of the island. To this day the citadel character remains, in a somewhat figurative sense. Ancient notions, prejudices, and customs hide, from generation to generation, in the interior fastnesses, and even hold some of the outworks. Strangers are struck by strong local peculiarities as soon as they alight at the railway stations, or dip into the shallowest outlying valley ; and when they penetrate to the deep, dark lakes, and sleep at the foot of solemn precipices, they seem to have become the guests of a generation of two centuries ago. The dwellings are of grey stone, rough and substantial ; the walls two feet thick, and the floors flagged ; and the yawning chimney, with its furniture and space, is like nothing more modern than Queen Elizabeth's time. The caiTed chests and high-backed chairs, the heavy wooden settles, the linsey-woolsey of the women, and the wooden shoes of the children, and the home-spun coats of the men, the stone fences, with their antique steps ; and above all, the mysterious walls, which strag- gle up the mountain sides, apparently useless, and certainly ugly, — all carry back the imagination through many centuries, and give an impression of a sample of old England, preserved through all the changes of a piodern time. The straggling walls are so distinctive a feature of the region as to require special notice. The stout Eomans made no difficulty of storming this citadel any more than any other which it suited them to take ; and they marched right into, or over, the fastnesses of the region. AVe know this by the traces they have left. Not only have we still their camp at the head of Win- dermere, which involved no great mountain travelling : we have vestiges of a wonderful road of theirs along the very top of the Troutbeck ridge, — one peak of which is called High Street for that reason. The Saxons and Normans sat down before the citadel ; but they did not take it till the garrison had nearly died out. As the Normans pressed on the Saxons, the Saxons entered where the Britons had found refuge before; but this was not till long after they had made a lodgment in the more fertile and accessible parts of the district. For instance, it was in or about a.d. 915 that the Saxon Edmund slew the king of Cumbria, Dumhnail, in Dunmaile Eaise, where a cairn marks the place of battle. The two sous of the slain king were Winded, and their territory given to Malcolm of Scotland, to hold in fee. This was when the Saxons had long been the reputed lords of the laud ; and it does not appear that they were well settled in the district till long afterwards. The straggling walls mark their recession, in their turn, before a new race of invaders : a recession so slow and partial that the feudal age was nearly over before the region was thrown open. There are no ruins of feudal castles in the interior ; and such Norman traditions as remain hang about the outskirts. The heart of the Lake District was, for a long course of years, almost as much of an unknown land to knight or abbot as Mauritania or far Cathay. There were, as we have said, no feudal castles in the interior. But there were abbeys in the surrounding levels ; and broad lands were given to Norman nobles, comprehending nearly the whole circumference. Cart- rael Priory and Furuess Abbey occupied the two penin- sulas stretching into Morecambe Bay; Calder Abbey lay between the mountains and the sea on the west ; St. Bees stood above the surf on that coast; Lanercost Priory on the north ; Wolverdale Monastery and Shap Ahhej nearly complete the circuit. In the intervals stood many a strong dwelling, whose park stretched inwards towards the mountains, over gentle Iiill and shallow dale. A ring-fence of Norman possessions en- closed the mountains ; and the nobles and monks spread their flocks and their tillage over the slopes, up to the natural defences of the region. Their lands were divided into tenements, and the tenements into portions small enough to be given to emancipated serfs. By arrange- ments among the holders, military aid was so afforded to the owner as to permit the greater number of settlers to apply themselves to the care of stock and to tillage. As shepherds and husbandmen they obtained access to the hills, which would have been denied to armed men ; and they gradually hutted themselves on the uplands, and then enclosed crofts round their dwellings, for the pro- tection and sustenance of their flocks, without opposition from the mountaineers. The sprouts of the ash and the holly were a chief part of the food of cattle in those days ; and the walling in of the crofts was partly to pre- serve the woods, and partly to protect the animals from wolves. The feudal proprietors encouraged this gradual encroachment by herdsmen and shepherds ; and the walls seem to have crept up wherever wood could grow, in days when the whole region was one great forest. The forest is gone, and the walls remain, without beauty, and without apparent use ; but they answer some purpose, even to the mere observer, if they indicate the mode and degree in which the last invaders encroached on the last resistants who struggled for possession of Old England. The distribution of the estates into tenements gave rise to the name, as well as to the mode of^ife of the SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 41 dalesmen. Strangers are surprised to find that it is tlie dwellers on the hills, and not in the valleys, who are the dalesmen of the region. The name is derived from the word deijlcn, to distribute. As each tenement was divided into four portions, and as each tenement fur- nished an armed man to the border, or other wars, on demand, three out of four tenants remained in their crofts, and industiy was spread over the region, through all the ravages of feud with the Scots and among baro- nial neighbours. The uplands were cut up into portions, each of which had its own herd, or flock, or tillage, according as the ground was woodland, or pasture, or fit for cultivation ; and the dalesmen were the distributed men. The most remarkable change that the district has ever undergone was, perhaps, that which succeeded the union with Scotland. The border wars at an end, there was no further drain of able-bodied men from their homes ; and a repose, like nothing else in England, settled down upon the Lake District. The men now- shared the monotony in which the women had lived. For a whole lifetime entire families never were further from home than the next fair or market, or spring or autumn sale of household goods ; and strong traces of this seclusion remain, even to this day, in some of the most retu-ed vales, — where the women speak with the awkwardness which attends an unaccustomed action. It is not only that the dialect is unintelligible to strangers, but that the mind is so sluggish, the thoughts so unused to be dressed in words, that the rustics speak their native language as learners speak a foreign one. And yet the other great change of modern times has pene- trated this part of the country, like every other. The growth of the manufacturing system modifies life in the lake district to an extent only exceeded by the border wars. The process and the existing state of things are perfectly clear and easily described. The first breaks in the forest which once covered the whole district — clotliing the ridges and filling up the valleys — appeared when the husbandmen and herdsmen made their dealings, and let in the sunshine over broad tracts of the mountain sides. Still, though the people grew their own flax and hemp, as well as wool, the woodlands were preserved with some care, for the sake of food and shelter for cattle and sheep. Wordsworth was told by old people, in his youth, of a time when the squirrel could go from Wythburn to Keswick (six miles) on the tops of the trees, without touching the ground. But the consumption of wood went 'on without any attempt to repaur it ; and large spaces of rocky ground were left bare which had better have been covered ; and bogs began to spread, as they usually do where the felling of forests has not been accompanied by drainage. The wool and flax were still spun at home, and the clothes were made up by the itinerant tailors who went from homestead to homestead to construct the family suits, being paid by board and lodging, and a small gift over. As the flocks and cattle suffered more fi-om the snow- drifts on the bare uplands, and as the spread of the swamps occasioned more and more loss, this affair of the clothing became more expensive and diSicult. The dalesmen were unconscious of the process, but they were passing through a period of transition which must end in making clothing cheap, in partially restoring theii- woods, and in providing for their sons and daugh- ters at a distance from home. In brief, the coppices of the district ai-e now more valuable for bobbins for the manufacturing districts than the flax, hemp, and wool of the same area could ever be again. According to the news of the South Carolina cotton-fields, and the Australian sheep-walks, and the mulberi-y plantations of Italy and India, is the con- dition and prospect of the woodlands of the Lake District. Every autumn a group of men may be seen traversing the uplands from coppice to coppice : the agent, well booted, making his way through bog, brambles, and moss, and squeezing through the underwood, to value the trees. A labourer follows with paint-pot and brush, to mark the doomed trunks; and a bargain is finally struck with the bobbin-mill owner, on behalf of the landowner. In some parts, the woods, within a certain limit, are divided into twenty portions, one of which is felled every year, — wood of twenty years' growth being considered best for the purpose ; but the order is broken in upon, more or less, according to the state of the cotton, wool, and silk markets. The domestic changes which have attended the intro- duction of this new element have been such as must give a new aspect to the whole life of the dalesmen in general. Foimerly, the wheel was whining from morning till night iu every fai'mhouse ; and there was employment for the whole famUy when everything was grown and made at home, and when any surplus, from either field or loom, was sure of a sale. For many years after cotton goods became cheap enough to be bought all through the dales, the pacldiorse which brought them first, and the carrier's waggon which suc- ceeded it, took away the old homespun in return for the new calicoes; and there was still work for the daughters in the domestic manufacture. But, at length, spinning-machines grew and multiplied in Lan- cashire and Yorkshire till the demand for bobbins brought the coppices of the lake district into request, and changed the course of industry. The first effect was to lav the hill sides barer than ever ; but, when the 42 SUKVEY OF THE LAKE DISTEICT. wood began to grow again, and the residents found that the demand was likely to be a permanent one, they began to cherish their woods, and to plant more on soil which would answer no better purpose. This might be all very well — a gain to some people, and no loss to any — but there are incidents connected with the change which cannot but sadden the observer, while they must not be passed over in any faithful account of the distiict. The lads and lasses who used to be busy at home, making all the domestic clothing and utensils, — the dairy ves- sels, baskets, fishing tackle, etc., — obtaining whatever else was wanted from the pedlar who dropped in upon them twice a year or so, now find their skill discredited by modern improvements, and then- fortunes hopeless at home. They are scattered through the neighbouring towns, or working in the Laucashu-e and Yorkshire mills. The pai-ents, and the one son at home, would have, they thought, more produce to sell at market and fairs ; but here again they are met by agricultural im- provement. Ah-eady under disadvantage as to climate and soil, they cannot compete with the farmers of more advanced agricultural districts. The decline of the domestic fortunes is regular and inevitable when it has once set in. The land is mortgaged: the "statesmen" ("estatesmen" originally) haunt the fairs and markets, losing more and more, and too commonly resorting to the old solace on such occasions, and coming home drunk. The amount of intemperance among that class, both in the villages and tlie dales, is something incredi- ble to strangers, and by fai- the most painful feature of the transition stage. As the mortgages grow more oppressive, the heu-s sell the lands; — estates which have belonged to the same name for centuries have changed hands ; and the old names are found eveiywhere among the shopboys, domestic servants, and labourers of the towns and villages. The old yeomanry of the district have nearly passed away, and strangers have come into their place. The spectacle is a sad one, but nobody has a right to complain. If the indigenous proprietors could not keep up their old waj's intelhgently, nor adopt new ones, they must inevitably give place to a science and an activity which can regenerate the woodlands, and fill the valleys with grain, and cover the hill-sides with flocks. Amidst the depressed and discouraged class of " states- men," some hearty specimens of the old order may here and there be found ; but it must strike every traveller in the district that the mountaineer farmer is everywhere becoming remarkably like the agricultm-ist of a more level region. The improved value of the copses acts both as cause and effect in creating and sustaining bobbin-mills, of which there are four, not far apart, in the southern part of the district, viz., at Staveley, Troutbeck, Ambleside, and Skelwith. But even in that neighbourhood charcoal- bmning goes on with some activity. In ancient times the monks of Furncss Abbey made great profit of their ironworks, through the abundance of their woods, after those of the eastern counties were exhausted. The mineral treasures of the north-west of England would have availed httle without the charcoal and peat of the district ; and even the discovery of the Newcastle coal- field did not affect the iron works at Fumess. The oregatcs (ways) of the Furness peninsula at this day testify to the amount of business done, — many roads and lanes remaining entirely constructed of the slag and refuse of the smelting process. And the huts of the charcoal-burners still delight the eye amidst the wood- lands of the southern part of the district. The wood- cutters remain on a particular spot till their work is done ; and they build an abode for the time by piling up stems of trees, and heaping heather upon them for a roof. This is the most picturesque thatch that can be seen; and the structure is so shaggy and wild that it might not be known for a dwelling but for the blue smoke breathing out from the hole in the roof, or the fire before the door, where the pot is boiling. The grimy charcoal-burners, or the children at play in the red light, remind the traveller of the forests of Germany; and the life is really not less wild. When the children see a stranger sketching, or botanising, or in any way exploring, they say he is " spying fancies ;" and he is a sort of magician in their eyes. Among the latest speci- mens of the old wild race of forest men were the brothers Dodgson, whose memory has been preserved in Cartmel for above a century. We complain of men being too much engrossed by business in our towns at this day ; but these brothers were so intent on their wood-cutting that they devoted Sunday to cooking for the whole week. They lived chiefly on oatmeal porridge, varying the diet with dried peas and hard beans. When they were growing old, they found the need of some domestic help and comfort ; and at last the one relieved his mind to the other, saying, " Thou mun out and tait a wife.' " Aye," said the brother, " if thear be a hard job, thou oUus sets yan tult." lie obeyed, however; and when the old fellows were chopping away — rain or shine — at past eighty, there was a wife's face at the door of the hut, and children helping with the faggots. The brothers left plenty of money ; but it melted away as fast as misers' hotirds usually do; and the name is now known only by tradition in Cartmel. Much more recently, and more within the verge of modern civilisation, another story was mournfully enacted. A young charcoal-burner was about to marry SUBYEY OF TlIK LAKE DISTRICT. 43 a farmer's daughter, wben, as be sat on a stone, watch- ing his fire and taking his dinner, a flash of lightning struck him dead. Kitty Dawson, his beloved, went to his hut the day after the funeral, in a crazed state, and would never leave it again. She passed her days in sitting on that stone, or calKng her lover through the wood. Though she was never intruded on, there were always comforts in the but, and kind eyes on the watch. One winter day, some sportsmen entered the but to leave food there, silencing their dogs, and moving quietly. But she could never more be disturbed, — she was lying dead. Another distinctive class of the district are much like what they were of old, — the slate-quarrymen and miners. The quarrymen, who are met with in the very wildest spots, are a hardy and athletic race, who can bring down from the top of a crag to the ground, from sk to twelve hundredweight of slate at once. A Joseph Clark, remembered by the existing generation, accomplished feats which could hardly be surpassed by the strong men of the border iu the middle ages. In one day he made seventeen journeys from top to bottom of Honister Crag, — that is, seventeen miles of chmbing and sharp descent, — carrying up, each time, a hurdle weighing SOlbs., and biinging down each time 040lbs. of slate. He once cai-ried double that quantity, each time, in three successive journeys. His greatest day's work was bringing 11,770 lbs. His abode was thi'ee miles from the quarry; but ha thought httle of the addition of a six miles' wallc to his daily business. He complained of nothing but thirst, and did not appear to suffer from toil so stupendous, continued through a long course of years. Wherever the passenger observes heaps of refuse on the mountain side, or near his path, he may be sure of seeing men worth knowing. They may be found standing on ledges iu the recesses of the quarry, or seen moving in the depths below, looking like pigmies, or creeping along the face of the crag, several hundred feet overhead. In the latter case, there are little cham- bers built up in the refuse, to afford shelter from wind and storms. Ranges of these may be seen, if carefully looked for, near the summits of Honister and the adja- cent crags ; but it too often happens that a quarryman is caught by the wind before he can get to shelter, and blown out from the face of the crag, like a bird from its perch. When the slate is closely compacted, and offers a pei-pendicular siuface, the quarryman goes to work as the shepherds do when they want to destroy eagles' eggs. His comrades let him down by a rope, and he tries for a footing to rest on while he drives in his wedges. Seen from below, men thus employed look like summer spiders dangling from the eaves of a house. There are more resources and better roads than there used to be ; and there is less breakage of men's bones, as well as of good slate ; but, between the needless risks they run, aud the sudden storms they encounter, and the vast weights they carry or draw, and the slipping of the foot, and the dizzying of the head by drink, there are widows and orphans coming in almost every year from the quarries to live in the towns, and subscription lists going round oftcner than from any other local accident, except drowning iu the lakes. There are other black chasms in the mountain sides. There is copper mining and lead mining among the fells, besides the ironworks in the Fui-ness peninsula. The lead miners have, perhaps, been the least stable class ; for their fortunes are precarious. At one time the value of the plumbago in Borrowdale was so little known that the shepherds used it freely for marking theii- sheep ; and then, when it was found to be the best material for pencils ever known, the proprietors at once obtained from thirty to forty shilhngs a pound for the lead of a single " sop," which yielded upwards of twenty- eight tons. In those days, houses were built at the entrance, where the workmen were obliged to change their clothes under inspection, — so strong was the temptation to embezzlement. The high wages of such prosperous periods have alternated vnth entu-e suspen- sions of business, when the lead became too poor for even blacking stoves, or when it seemed lost altogether; and such vicissitudes work mischief on the character of the labouring class. The old copper-mines have been sufficiently prosperous to offer a temptation to the open- ing of new works ; and the characteristics of the mining class are spreading into new vales, and crossing from one mountain side to another. The successor of Eobert Walker, " The Wouderful " (celebrated by Wordsworth), complains that the trauquiUity of the parish of Seath- waite is disturbed by the sinking of a shaft in the neighbouring hill side, — the miners drawing people away to diversion on Sundays. At Coniston, where the great copper-mine of the region has been worked from the earliest recorded times, the people, who sometimes receive as wages from the mine no less than £2,000 per month, are known by their eagerness after open-air sport. They shoot at everything they see flying, and hunt every- thing they see running ; so that not only did the eagles disappear there sooner than anywhere, but the ravens are gone, though the last pair showed every inchnation to cleave to their crag in Yewdale through all chances and changes. Like the general working class of the region, the miners are quite suificiently thrifty, — • abundantly fond of gain. While poets and romancers have taken for granted that there must be patriarchal u SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. generosity and rural innocence among tlio dalesmen, the clergy declare that they find it necessary to preach against worldliness, instead of exhorting to foresight and thrift. While the people appear to have no con- ception of personal cleanliness, or civil and orderly in- door habits, they keep their houses and furniture clean and bright, hoard goodly clothing, and are exceedingly fond of high profits. They would prosper better with more iutelUgeuce and modern knowledge ; but their back- wardness in these respects does not prevent their haring a keen eye for the main chance. Youthful lovers find that there are hard fathers in the vales as elsewhere ; and the young dalesmen have reason to know that the rural heiress can take very good care of herself and her fortune. In this matter there is probably little differ- ence between the old times and the new, unless it be in the broadest highroad of the summer tourist. PUySICAL CHANGES. The changes wrought by nature in the features of the landscape are perhaps more conspicuous than those which affect the characteristics of the people. The sea works roughly in such a recess as Morecambe Bay, stirring up the sands very destructively. Several vil- lages specified in Domesday Book are so utterly gone that no trace of them has remained within the memory of man. Others have become isolated at high water, or have been wholly engulfed since the beginning of the last century. The old village of Aldingham has disappeared since that time. The fresh-water forces of the interior operate to the same effect, causing occasional ravages as terrible as any that the marauding Scots left behind them in their old forays. One instance will suffice. In 1700, a flood descended the ravine between Grassmoor and Whiteside, on Crummock Water, carrying down every- thing that it could sweep from the mountain side, and from the vale below, and ending with laying bare of all soil a piece of arable land which extended between the valley and the lake. Full-grown trees were flourishing there in a considerable depth of earth when the sun set, and at sunrise there was a clean floor of rock. The accumulated material smothered ten acres of land. In the place of a stone causeway, fortified by an embank- ment, apparently as strong as the hiUs, there was a swift-flowing river in a sunken channel. The village of Brackenthwaite, unintentionally buUt on a rock, was safe in the morning ; but it stood perched on a knoll, with chasms all about it. The flood and its burden poured into the little river Cocker, and so swelled it that the plain between the mountains and the sea was under water for a considerable time. If such mischief could be done iu one night, the perpetual operation of impetuous waters cannot be insignificant. Slides are frequent, as in all hilly countries subject to rains ; and the leaping rocks thus displaced play many tricks. Sometimes they lodge in a chasm, and form a bridge ; sometimes one bounds into a pool, and forms the basis of an islet; and then, again, it stops short in a meadow, and makes a resting-place for the shepherd, or a shelter for his lambs. The continuous conveyance of silt by the streams alters the forms and dimensions of the lakes so materially that no one of them looks the same from one haK century to another. This perpetual deposit alters the currents more than any occasional slide of stones and gravel. New promontories gradually arise, and the sweeps of the bays contract, tiU reeds fill up the space of the marginal waters, and new acres are seen growing for the husbandman of a future generation. There is scarcely a vale in the whole district which does not show green meadows, and especially a " waterhead," which must have been a part of the lake not very long ago ; and in Grasmere the effect of the process is re- markably evident. From any of the slopes above the north-east of the vale of Grasmere the lake looks a mere pond, the small remains of a sheet of water which must once have occupied the whole basin, except where the knolls made islands, like those of the Windermere of our day. While the lakes are thus contracting, and hinting of a time when they will become dry land, new pools are opened, and then deepened and expanded into a promise of future lakes. A tree falls, or a boulder lodges on a well head. In either case the waters spread through the soil, and lodge round the obstruction, making a swamp, which is constantly increased by the fall of more trees, as their roots are loosened. The drowned vegetation decays, and sinks, and waterplants appear, no one knows how. Fish come in time, and their fry, and the seeds and insects, which presently abound, bring birds, and birds bring men. The waterfowl squabble among the reeds ; and the hill echoes send the souud to the sportsman's ear. He finds the heron wading in summer, and the snipe rocldng on the bulrush in autumn ; and divers popping on the surface of the pool, and perhaps the wild geese encamping for the night. When the waters stretch to barriers of rock where they can grow clear and deeper, and receive constant accessions from the hill ooze and drip, the new tarn is safe. The shepherd follows on the track of the sportsman, and his flock in time transform the rough ground into sward, by manuring and browsing. Next appears the first work of art in this wilderness. The sheepfold is a mere enclosure, formed by piling the stones which lie about into high walls, some one of which must afford SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 45 shelter from drifting snow, whichever way the wind brings it. These folds are usually placed ou the lowest ground in the hollow, and as near the water as ma}' be. After the fold comes tlio hut, looking much like a deserted chalet ; and there the cows can be sheltered in bad weather while out on the fells, — to say nothing of the herdsman. In time, the farmstead rises on the slope above the tarn; the plough drives iu among the stones ; and the stones congi-egate in the shape of fences. The sounds of the fai-m-yai-d scare away the wildfowl : oats take the place of heather ; and the draining of the tilled land once more enlarges the lake. The clatter of horses is heard on the stony road ; men pass that way, and open new tracks over the ridges. The pedlai- drops down into the vale with his gay commodities, and his news from the town ; and before the dark sycamores at each end of the house have met to make a canopy, there are sons and daughters settled within call, and a new hamlet (something ending in " thwaite,'' probably), has taken its name and place among the hills. If sudden changes in the aspect of the sceneiy are caused by slides which lay bare the green up- lands or sloping fallows, or by clearings of the woods, or by floods, nature gradually restores the smooth and tranquil surface of the landscape. The birds and the breezes cany seeds to every ledge, and cast them into clefts in the bare precipices, so that the birch and mountain-ash show themselves where there seems to be no soil nor room for a root to strike. The wildest rock-face thus becomes feathered from its base to its ridge ; and every autumn fall of leaves and flight of seeds helps the process. Wherever the rill, or the mere drip from above, deposits soil, grass and weeds appear ; and they creep up the slopes with visible progress from season to season. Exquisite mosses and delicate ferns line the recesses kept moist by the spray of waterfalls, and clothe the stone fences till they become richer in vegetation, and far more grateful to the eye than the hedges of the southern counties. By this kind of tinting and of drapery, the barreness of new greystone buildings, and the glare of white ones, are presently tempered. So many processes are continually going on that the newest and rawest fissure of a rent mountain, where all is rigid, motionless, and bare, is sure to become in com-se of yeai's filled with beauty. There is motion from waving trees and tall grass, as well as from winds and waters ; and every variety of hue, from the gayest wildflowers and mountain berries to the sombre greens, greys, and browns of the fir, and the rocks and their heather. Some further operations are, however, becoming necessary from the hand of man. Inundations are more frequent and mischievous than formerly, and are evidently on the increase. In the neighbourhood of such of the larger lakes as are prefen-ed for residence, the levels are oftener laid under water than they were twenty years ago ; and there is more flooding of houses, and injury to health as well as property. Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite Lake effect a junction of their contents much too often, to the injury of the town of Keswick and the surrounding levels ; and the lowlands round Windermere, and even the two valleys of the Kotha and the Brathay at its head, are flooded several times in the course of a winter, as weU as after the July rains. The main cause of the evil is the new fashion, excellent in itself, of agricultural drainage. Modern improvement, which every wise man welcomes, sends down masses of water in an hour which it would have taken a week to carry off before drainage was thought of The thing wanted is a proper carrying out of the system of di-ainage, and not any going back from what is already done. When steamboats were set up on W^indermere, a good deal of money was spent in deepening the south end of the lake, — and this was very well; but the outlet wauts enlarging too ; and a weir is, in such a case, not to be tolerated. Now that steam-mills are to be had, water power must give way to the public health and conve- nience ; and every facility must be afforded to the waters to flow away as rapidly as they are brought down by the drainage-pipes of improved farming. One other modem feature of the scenery must be ■ pointed out. At regular times, — once a month, for the most part, — a taU, old shepherd may be seen, with his staff and his dog, traversing the highest central ridges, sometimes below and sometimes above the clouds. He has business up there, higher thau he ever led his sheep. He has the charge of the rain- guages, some half-dozen of them, set up on various heights, and well secured against the gales. He goes the round of them, and records the results. In his youth superstition and fear held possession of the places where science has now established a footing; and the old shepherds, to whom, above all men, their neighbours looked for goblin stories, can now read off the registers of nature, and teach the wise, instead of amusing the ignorant, by telling what they find on the mountain top. The district can show no change more suggestive than this. SURVEY FROM THE SUJI5IITS. The diameter of the Lake District is only thirty miles. It is a singular case of the concentration of all the attributes of a mountain region within so small a 46 SUEVEY OF THE LAKE DISTEICT. compass. Elsewhere, either the proportions are alto- gether lai-ger, or, as in Seotlauil and many other countries, long spaces lie between the objects of interest. The way to obtain a conception of the pro- portions and relations of the heights, valleys, and lakes, in our own district, is to stand on the ridge called Esk Hause, and look abroad on a clear day. Esk Hause is a ridge among the centi-al and loftiest peaks, of which the Scawfell Pikes and Bow Fell are the conspicuous points. The head-waters of the Esk and Duddon are on this ridge ; and it commands, to singular advantage, the primary valleys of the region, — thi-ee lines of landscape, which, with their accessories, con- stitute the Lake District. Looking northwards, Bor- rowdale is seen lyiug immediately below, and extending to Derwentwater, beyond which the opening continues past the town of Keswick, past Skiddaw, over Bas- senthwaite Lake, to the Solway and Scotch mountains. This is one line. The next tends to the south-east. It begins with Langdale, Mug just underneath, passes by the opening of the Brathay valley to Windermere, and onwards to the dim outline of lugleborough, in Yorlvshire. The third line is intermediate, tending south-westwards. It follows the course of the Esk down Eskdale to the sands; and while Blackcomb rises to the left, the glittering sea bounds the view beyond. The three lines are rarely seen in equal clearness ; for, if the sun favours one, another is shadowy or misty ; but by spending a bright summer's day on the ridge, the geography of the district may be better understood than it could be by any other method of actual obser\-ation, unless it were from a balloon. To follow these lines may be the best way of studying the mountain area in print, as on the spot. from this ridge the ancient domains of Furness Abbey may be traced. The abbey itself lies south and seawards, among the last levels of the peninsula, which is hidden by the screen of the great Conistou mountain. From the sea to the Sliire Stones — not far below Esk Hause— the whole territory lying between Windermere and the Duddon belonged to the abbey; and again, looking northwards, the whole of Borrowdalc. The hamlet of Grange, at the mouth of Borrowdalc, owes its name to the barns in which the produce was stored, and where monks lived to take care of it. The passes are so steep, and the vale is so efToctually hemmed in by mountains, that it was thought sufTi- cient to take care of the entrance. So Grange stands in the defile where the shoaly Derwent is spanned by twin bridges, and the monks were supposed to hold the key of Borrowdale. It was this character of a recess which gave rise to the old storv, which a Borrow- dale man hardly likes to hear of even at this day, and which makes the name of the cuckoo a signal for a faction fight at fairs or in wayside inns. Spring was so dehghtful, we are told, to the Borrowdale people in old times, and the note of the cuckoo so gladsome, that the inhabitants set about building, a wall, to keep in the cuckoo, and make spring last for ever. This wall stretched aci-oss the entrance, at Grange. Unfor- tunately, the cuckoo got away ; but this was because the wall was built one course of stones too low. It is simply for want of a top course on the wall that eternal spring does not reign in Borrowdale ! Not only is the word gouk (cuckoo, and also foolj not to be uttered, but the mention of the cuckoo is sure to be followed by a knock-down blow from a Borrowdale man, if time and place allow of it. It is not now difficult to drop into the dale from the surrounding heights, the most southerly of which are the loftiest. From Esk Hause there is a foot-track to Sprinkling Tarn, whence a rill flows to feed Sty Head Tarn, on the pass between Wastdale and Borrowdale. Another way is by the Stake pass from Langdale ; a third is by the steep road from Buttermere ; and a fourth is from the direction of Helvellyn, — a footpath from Leg- borthwaite and Watendlath, which drops into Borrowdale behind Rosthwaite. The twin passes of the Stake and Sty Head descend ou each side the " tongue " which splits this vale, like almost every other, into a fork at its higher end. The mountain Glaramara is the "tongue" of Borrowdale ; and that part of the recess is still deeply secluded, while settlements thicken towards the other end. From the top of the Stake Pass to Grange is about eight miles; and within the last six there are dwellings, — first, mere farmsteads with their appur- tenances, and a few miners' cottages ; then tlie hamlet of Piosthwaite, and finally, Grange. Within a few years several goodly mansions have risen up from the levels, which is rather strange, considering the swampy character of the low grounds, and the vast fall of rain in that mountain basiu, amounting to no less than from 120 to 100 inches by the rain guage at Scathwaite. Borrowdale can hardly be more celebrated than it has been ever since the scenery of the district began to be appreciated ; but it is now so frequented that the local tra- ditions of primitive manners sound very strange. For in- stance, the great event of an innovator having entered the vale, some generations ago, is fixed in the people's minds by an anecdote. This ncw-fanglcd personage wanted some lime, — an article never heai-d of. He sent an old man a long way for the new commodity, with horse and sacks, — there being no carts because there was no road. Fioturning from beyond Keswick, the messenger and PA'ETEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 47 his horse were overtaken by a shower ; and immediately after, the old man was alarmed by seeing liis sacks begin to smoke. He got a hatful of water from the river : but the more he wetted his sacks, the worse the smoke grew. As nothing could be clearer than that the devil must be in any fire which was aggravated by water, the teiTified man tossed his whole load into the river, where it hissed so fearfully as to make him glad to be rid of it. — Another resident is repoited to have suffered more than this by introducing an innovation, being rescued at last by a bright native wit, such as may often be found in the dullest places. A Borrowdale "statesman" went one day to a distant fair or sale, and brought home some- thing terribly new, — a pair of stirrups. He jogged home with his feet fii-mly jammed into his stirrups, — so firmly that by the time he reached his own door he could not get them out. The alarm and lamentation were great ; but there was no use in ciying over misfor- tunes ; so the good man patiently sat his horee in the pasture for a day or two — the family bringing liim food — till the eldest son declared that he had an idea ! The horse would suffer by exposure ; and it would be better for the horse, and no worse for his father, that they should be in the stable. The idea was applauded ; and the farmer had his food brought to him in the stable for a few days more. By that time, the second son had an idea. Tt was a pity that the horse should not be useful, and, for that matter, the father too ; and it might be possible to carry him on his saddle into the house. By immense exertion it was done, — the horse being led beside the midden-heap, in the yard, while the girths were loosened, to soften any unlucky fall. The good- man found himself under his own roof again, spinning wool in a comer of the kitchen, as he sat astride his saddle. There he remained, through the cleverness of his second son, till his youngest, a bright youth, in a bright hour, came home full of learning fi-om the college at St. Bees. After duly considering the case, he, like his brothers, had an idea. His counsel was, that his father should draw his feet out of his clogs. This was done, amidst family acclamations ; and the good-man was restored to his old way of hfe. His wife was so proud and delighted, that she declared that if she had a score of children she would make scholars of them all. The learning of Bon-owdale, however, did not all come from St. Bees. Philosophy might be native there as elsewhere ; and one genius amved at a conclu- sion, on a certain occasion, which could hardly be outshone within the walls of any college. A stranger came riding into the vale on a mule, which he left at a farmhouse, as he had an en-and up the pass. Neither the farmer nor his neighbours had ever seen such a creature before ; and some natural misgivings induced them to consult the wise man of the vale. (They were sensible enough to keep a Sagum or Medicine- man, to supply their deficiencies in msdom.) The wise man came, contemplated the creature, drew a circle round it, and consulted his books while his I channs were burning. At length he announced that he had completed his discovery. There were so many things that the creature could not be, that there re- mained no doubt as to what it must be. It was a peacock ! Borrowdale could thenceforth boast of a visit from a stranger who came riding on a peacock. Tf every valley abounded in anecdotes like Borrowdale, there would be no end of describing the district; but it is not so. The unique character of that valley as a recess, and the deep seclusion of its old inhabitants, made Bon-owdale remarkable for simplicity and dulness in a region where the people in general seemed as primitive as possible in the eyes of the few who came from afar to see them. Borrowdale opens upon Derwentwater, — perhaps the best known of the lakes, though not one of the largest, nor perhaps in itself the most beautiful. It is about three miles long, and has an average breadth of a mile and a half. Its depth is inconsiderable; and hence its singular clearness, and mirror-like expanse. Its islands, and certain promontories and passes of the surrounding heights, are connected with the names and histories of the Eatcliffes, Earls of Derwentwater; and they are believed to have left records on even the sky. The aurora borealis is there called " Lord Derwent- water's lights," because it was particularly brilliant the night after the execution of the Earl, who was " out" with the Jacobites in 1715. The cleft in Wallabarrow crag, which is called the Lady's Kake, takes its name from its being the way of escape of his wretched wife, who climbed it in the night, carrying away the family jewels, to be used on behalf of her husband. The ancient abode of the Eatchffes was on the hUl called Castle-head, built, according to tradition, within the compass of a Druidical circle : but the materials were removed to Lord's Island, on the lake, 'where their more modern mansion stood. The island of Piamp's Holme was theirs also ; and tradition connects with their family the hermit of the seventh century, St. Herbert, the dear friend of St. Cuthbert, who inhabited a third island, called after him, and died on the same day with his holy brother of Lindisfam. Vicar's island is the fourth of those which stud the northern end of the lake, and reduce its apparent extent. The noted float- ing island of Derwentwater is a mere mass of decayed vegetation, and soil formed from it, which rises to the 48 SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTKICT. surface when distended with gasses, and siuks when collapsing by their discharge. Derwentwater is surrounded by very noble land- marks. At one end Scawfell Pike rises above the lofty Borrowdale mountains ; and at the other, Skiddaw swells from the levels in lonely majesty. Along the western side, Cat Bells rises to a height of 1,400 feet, with Causey Pike, COO feet higher, just behind it; and the fine wooded steeps of \Yallabarrow and Falcon Crag enclose the eastern shore. It is from this ridge that the Ban'ow fall and that of Lodore descend, from a taru in the upland valley of Watendlath. The fall of Lodore is one of the finest in the district, and unique in its character. A steep ravine of vast boulders separates the towering rocks of Gowder Crag and Shepherd's Crag ; and the contents of the tarn in the valley, which lies 150 feet above Derwentwater, come gushing and dripping down in a multitude of little streams, or in a succession of roaring cascades, according to the season or the weather. At the north end of the lake lies the town of Kes- wick, on the plain which stretches at the base of Skiddaw. That plain, as seen from any of the sur- rounding heights, and especially from Castlerigg on the road to Ambleside, presents one of the richest scenes in England. Besides the town and environs of Keswick, there are villages where the woollen manufacture flou- rishes, and many farmsteads, and two conspicuous churches, in one of which, the white old-fashioned Crosthwaite Church, Southey is buried, and his monu- mental statue reposes. The Derwent and the Greta ■wind through the level ; and roads intersect it, losing themselves at last in climbing the slopes and penetrating the recesses of the hills ; and the fields and woodland show every variety of green under the summer sun, though they are too apt to be flooded in the winter months. The mountains of this group have a peculiar character, being bare and pointed ; but every peculiarity becomes reduced as the valley opens to the north. Bassentbwaite, four miles in length, and one in breadth, is the outlying lake in this direction ; and, except that Skiddaw towers on its eastern shore, it presents no marked features. Lord's Seat and Barf are tho highest hills on the western side ; and from them the fells subside in undulations to the plain. The Derwent flows out much enlarged from the northern end of Bassenthwaitc, and takes its course towards Cockermouth. The open vales of Isell and Emblctoii, lying north-west of Bassentbwaite, are the limit of the Lake District in that direction. The rich vale of Lorton, adjoining Embleton, and tra- versed by the high road from Keswick, connects with the gi-eat Derwentwater valley its dependency, in which lie Loweswater, Crummock Water, and Buttermere. In describing Borrowdale, mention was made of an open- ing towards Buttermere. At the branching of the fork, below Glaramara, in Borrowdale, there is a road to the west which passes through the farmyard at Seatoller, and ascends very steeply to Honister Crag, at the head of Buttermere Vale, commanding as wild a scene as can be found in the region. The slate quarries of Honister Crag, rising to 1700 feet, have been already referred to. The waterfall which pours beside them rushes down the vale in a channel so winding as to require many bridges or courses of stepping stones, so frequently must the road cross it. This stream is the infant Cocker. The highest peaks of the region are at hand to the south ; but tho vale leads on to a group which is only secon- dary. The four mountains which cluster round the south-western side of Buttermere range from Bed Pike, 2,750 feet, to the group a few hundred feet lower, of High Crag, Hayrick, and High Stile. They pour down cataracts in noble force, one of the most conspicu- ous of which is on the side of Buttermere, Sour Milk Ghyll by name. It descends from a tarn (Burtness Tarn) on Red Pike. Another appears to close in the Vale of Newlands, above Buttermere Haws, tumbling down the rocky side of Great Robinson. A much greater one is Scale Force, on the neighbouring Crum- mock Lake, a fall of 160 feet in a chasm of Melbreak. Tarns abound in these clustered mountains, where the clouds congregate naturally. The tarns of the district are small stiU-water lakes, lying on high ground. Those which are found in upland vales are not particularly beautiful, their margins being swampy, and their envi- rons not usually striking. But the true mountain tarns are very fine — deep, dark, and still, with wild heathery knolls or perpendicular rocks overshadowing them. AVhen their stillness is broken, it is by tumult. Some rush of wind lashes the surface into foam, and catches up the spray so that it may be seen whirUng out like smoke from a distance. Such waterfalls as have been spoken of, — Lodore, and those of the vales about But- termere,— each torrent descending from a taru, indicate the uses of those little high-lying lakes to which the district owes so much. But for them there would be more both of drought and of flood. They cause a dis- tribution of water, which fertilizes without inundating. The agricultural drainage already existing shows some- thing of the consequences of bringing down too much at once of the produce of the rains ; and but for the tarns, the whole body of rainfall would rush from the heights in a flood. While the lower brooks are rising and swelling the rivers, which immediately expand the lakes, SL'RVEY OF THE LAKE DISXr.ICT. 49 there is no contribution from the heights till the tarns overflow. The higher brooks empty themselves into the tarns, and by the time tliey are full, the waters below are subsiding. There are no fewer than fifty- four in the district, in all varieties, from the reedy pools of shallow upland vales, and clear basins with a margin of firm turf or clean sand, to the black pits of water which lie under precipices, or in hollows so deep that one at least is said to reflect the stars at noon day. Where they abound in the Buttermere group, the aspect of the mountains is remarkably rude. They show long sweeps of orange and grey stones, and red peaks and yellow promontories ; and huge hollows filled ^yith deep blue shadow, or breathing out white mists to curl up the black precipices. Such is the character of this lofty central region, from the topmost peak of Scawfell to the Screes above Wastwatcr. Such is the character of Eed Pike, as it towers above the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water. Buttermere is a small lake, — only a mile and a quarter in length, and little more than half a mile in breadth. Crummock Water is the same average breadth, and three miles long. The two lakes are separated by a narrow meadow, a mile across, subject to inundation, but divided into fields and clumped with trees, — ^a platform rescued from the waters to aflbrd a noble view of a circle of mountains. Opposite to Melbreak, the swelling masses of Wbiteless, Grassmoor, and Whiteside guard the lake, — the last mountains in this direction. The land subsides in undulations towards the Vale of Lorton, the boundary spoken of before as that into which the highlands melt to the north. One small lake, Lowes- water, lies beyond Crummock Water, to the north-west. It is only a mile long, and half as broad ; and its northern end opens upon the wild moor which lies be- tween the mountains and the sea. We must return to the head of Derwentwater, to notice the two isolated mountains there, Skiddaw and Saddleback. Skiddaw is the fourth English mountain for height, being 3,022 feet above the sea, and 2,911 above Derwentwater. It is separated from Saddle- back by the Glenderaterra, which rushes down to fall into the Greta. Blencathra, as Saddleback was called of old, is 2,787 feet in height. It is distinguished by the noble view from its summit, preferred by many to that from Skiddaw ; and by the depth and darkness of its tarns. In one of these, Scales Tarn, it is that the stars are said to be visible at noonday ; and another. Bow- scale Tarn, is that which is believed by the country people to be inhabited by a pair of undying fish, — the immortal fish celebrated by Wordsworth in his " Song at the Feast of Brougham Castle." Many legends, and much superstition hang about this neighbour- hood. Druidical circles seem to have left traces or traditions in many spots, and a well preserved one remains at the foot of Saddleback. Its forty-eight stones form an oval ; and on the eastern side, within the line, there is a small recess formed by ten stones, making an oblong square. According to the tradition which is re- lated in regard to this, as to various other druidical circles, the last human sacrifice was attempted there, and in this way: — The priests in an ancient time settled among the mountains, where there were stones suitable for their temples; whereas the rest of the people went down to the level grounds, and settled in a clearing of the forest, beside a river. A fever soon made havoc among them ; and the oracle demanded a sacrifice to appease the divine wrath. The lot fell on a girl who was betrothed ; and on the day of sacrifice she was con- ducted, with the usual ceremonies, to the temple, ou the western side of which a little hut of wickerwork, like a beehive, was set up. When she was presented to the assembled people, crowned with oak, and with mistletoe in her hand, her wretched lover saw her from a distance. He resolved to brave divine vengeance rather than contribute a twig to her pile, as every spec- tator was religiously bound to do. He saw her enter the hut ; he saw the multitude pass before it, each casting his branch against the walls ; and he saw the priest heap up the dried wood and leaves against the door, while the arch-priest was procuring, fire from two sticks. He saw the pile blaze, and, at the same mo- ment, a miracle : — Every mountain round gave forth a torrent, and all the floods rushed towards the temple as to a centre, and made an island of the little hut, ex- tinguishing the fire, and then flowing back to tbeii- sources. The maiden came forth safe, — not a hair singed, nor a leaf of her gariand withered. The arch- priest, skilled in interpreting thunder, seems to have understood also the " voice of many waters," for he pro- claimed that the god had forbidden human sacrifice henceforth for ever. Even now the druid stones are not like others in the eyes of the country people. Shy as they are in speaking about them, theyreally believe that nobody can count the druid stones correctly, and that a treasure is buried under the largest. Its weight, eight tons, prevents a search on the part of any curious indi- vidual ; and it is to be hoped that no body of men will be found barbarous enough to overthrow the stone. In ascendiug Saddleback by the stream fi-om Scales Tarn, a scene of natural magic is traversed, — so like a miracle that some superstition on the part of the country folk may be excused. There is no doubt whatever as to the facts of the appearances ou Souter Fell, — those 50 SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. appearances being spread over a course of years, and attested, not only by the inhabitants of all the dwellings within view of the mountain, but by twenty-six wit- nesses, selected for the purpose. The facts were re- lated in the Lonsdale Magazine, and other records of the time ; and, instead of being overthrown by inquiry, they were confirmed by disclosures of a similar pheno- menon seen in Leicestershire in 1707, and on Helvellyn, on the eve of the battle of Marston Moor. Souter Fell, it must be premised, is full of precipices ■which render any march of troops impossible in any part of it ; and the north and west sides present a sheer perpendicular of 900 feet. On midsummer eve, 17o5, a fai-m-servant of a Mr. Lancaster, living half a mile from the mountain, saw the eastern side of the summit covered with troops, which pursued their onward tramp for an hour. They came, in distinct bodies, from an eminence in the north end, and disappeared in a nicho in the summit. The man was ridiculed and reviled when he told what he had seen, as original observers are wont to be when they have anything new to tell. He had to bear it for two years before he had a com- panion in his disgrace. His employer, ]\Ir. Lancaster, then observed, on midsummer eve, some men following their horses on the same part of the fell, as if they were returning from a hunt. He thought nothing of this ; but, looldng up ten minutes afterwards, he saw the men mounted, and followed by a countless multitude of soldiers, five abreast, coming and disappearing as before. The entire household now watched the spectacle till darkness covered the summit. The family declared that the forces were manceuvred, and each company commanded, by a mounted officer, who galloped in various directions. As the light faded, the troops seemed to intermingle ; the officers rode at unequal paces ; and then it was too dark to see more. All the Lancasters were now insulted as their servant had been before ; but they too were justified in course of time. On the approach of midsummer eve, 17 1.5, they selected and invited twenty-six persons whose testimony ought to be received with respect; and the company saw all that had been seen before, and more. There were car- riages now among the troops ; and everybody knew that no carriages ever had been, or could be, on the summit of Souter Fell. The multitude was beyond imagina- tion, for the troops occupied a space of half a mile, and marched quickly till night hid them. The figures were so distinct that people went up, the ne.\t morning, to look for the hoof-marks of the horses ; and they were scared at the fresh and untrodden appearance of the gi-ass and heather. The story was attested on oath before a magistrate at the time ; and the whole countr)-- side was, in consequence, appalled about the issue of the rebellion then going forward. It came out that on that evening some of the rebel forces were exercising on the western coast of Scotland. Unless we knew in what part, we can have nothing to say to the prevalent con- clusion that the movements of that force had been re- flected " by some transparent vapour, similar to the fata morgana," — the theory offered by the Lonsdale JMagazine. Some other facts came out, — at least as much to the purpose : that Mr. Wren, of Wilton Hall, and a farm-servant, had had a little private experience of their own in the summer of 1743, when one evening they saw on the mountain a man and a dog pursuing some horses along a place so steep that a horse could scarcely, by any possibility, make good his footing. Their speed was prodigious ; and they disappeared so instantaneously at the southern extremity that ilr. Wren and his servant went up ne.xt morning to find the body of the man who must have been killed. No trace of man, dog, or horse could be found ; and the pair kept their vision to themselves till encouraged to speak by what happened two years afterwards. They were insulted just as much, after all, as if they had not had the Lancasters and their twenty-sis friends for fellow- witnesses. Our first survey from Esk Hause has thus compre- hended (somewhat figuratively) the chief mountains — Skiddaw, Saddleback, Grassmoor, Eed Pike, and Lord's Seat ; to which we may add several mountains of infe- rior rank, and the remarkable peak of Honister Crag. Of the chief lakes, we have noticed Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite ; Buttermere, Crummock Water, and Loweswater. Of waterfalls, Lodore and Barrow Falls ; Sour Milk Ghjil, on Buttermere, and Scale Force. Of rivers, the Derwsnt, the Greta, and the Cocker. Of fcirns, more than would be remembered if enumerated. SOUTH-E.\STERN SURVEY. The second great opening lies south-eastwards from Esk Hause ; but we must take it in its whole extent, beginning northwards at the vale of St. John at the foot of Saddleback. Pursuing it from this end, we iind the lake of Thirlmere, (formerly Leatheswater'; occupying the valley at the foot of Helvellyn, which thrusts its great bulk between this lake and Ulleswater to the east. Ulleswater lies among the last of the north- eastern mountains of the district ; and it is only about its head that any considerable peaks are assembled. At the foot of the lake, which is ten miles long, the heights hare sunk into hills; and the hills presently subside into the open country stretching towards Penrith. A SUnVEY OF TrtI LAKE DISTRICT. 51 few more ridges interpose between Ulleswater and the railway and opea moors to the east, the last of those ridges being the Shap Fells. They enclose the shallow vales of Mardale, Swindale, Wetsleddale, Lougsleddale, and Kentrnere ; the only lake of any note being Hawes- water in Mardale, — a miniature of Wastwater, which remains to be described hereafter. Parks and noble- men's seats abound outside this corner of the mountain district ; Brougham Castle and Hall being in the neigh- bourhood of Penrith, and the terrace of Lowther Castle overlooking the basins of both Ulleswater and Hawes- water. Greystoke Park lies north of Ulleswater, and Gowban-ow Park stretches down to the margin of the lake. In that park is the ravine which contains the exquisite waterfall, Ara Force ; and from its woods and slopes, graced with deer, the walli of four miles along the lake to Patterdale at its head, is one of the loveliest the region affords. On the opposite side of the lake, Place Fell rises abruptly from the water; while about the head there are groups of mountains looking like promontories in their projection into the landscape, and throwing up from their midst the great summits of St. Sunday's Crag, Herring Pike, Stridding Edge, and, finally Helvellyn, — the next to the Scawfell Pikes, and only 105 feet lower than the highest. The height of Helvellyn is 3,035 feet; and from its summit the tract we are now considering is commanded in all its features. On the one hand below lies Thirlmere, and on the other Ulleswater, while Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite lakes stretch away to the south and the peninsula beyond them till the land line melts into the sea. Immediately below, at various heights, some of the deepest tarns of the district lie all around, — the chief being Eed Tam, Keppel Cove Tarn, and Grise- dale Tarn in the pass from Patterdale to Grasmere, at the junction of three mountains, — Helvellyn, Seat- sandal and Fairfield. The two roads between which Helvellyn occupies the chief space run southwards till they meet at Ambleside. The Patterdale road, which runs from UUeswater to Windermere, ascends the Kii-k- stone pass,— the most considerable pass for carriage transit in the district, being 1200 feet above the sea level. At the foot of the ascent lies Brothers' Water, the smallest of the lakes, except Eydal. It is three- quarters of a mile, and Piydal half a mile in length, and the one is half, and the other one-third of a mile in breadth. Hayswater, a tam beloved of anglers, and overhung by High-street, is high up among the hills to the left. The hamlet of Hartsop lies in the level, where Brothers' Water spreads out among .the meadows, and the rough track mounts to the tarn above. The heights which enclose the pass are those of Scandale to the west, and of Coldfield to the east. Xear the top stands the fragment of rock which is supposed to have given its name to the pass, as it strongly resembles, from some points of view, a minia- ture church. The summit of the pass is occupied by the " Highest Inhabited House in England," a wayside public-house, so designated by the ordnance sm-veyors, whose testimony is exhibited in an inscription over the porch. From this point, two roads diverge — the one descending immediately upon Ambleside, and the other (the eastern one), passing through Troutbeck before it strikes the margin of Windermere. Troutbeck has no lake, but only the stream indicated by its title, and it is chiefly remarkable for the primitive character of its inhabitants and their abodes. To pass thi-ough it is hke going back two centuries for a morning walk. On the other side of this narrow, scooped-out valley, the subsidmg ridges give access to shallower vales, by wliich the mountain district melts down towards the east. The descent of above three miles from the top of Kirkstone pass to Ambleside is steep. In the Market- place the road joins that which has run on a lower level from the foot of Helvellyn. Thirlmere lies high, — five hundred feet above the sea level. It is two miles and three-quarters in length,' and in some parts so narrowed by promontories, as hardly to afford any fair- average of breadth. It is called, however, half a mile broad. At one point, where promontories and shoals unite, it is crossed by a bridge, or a causeway, supported by little bridges. A ■ rough road on the western side, seldom visited by any but angling or sketching strangers, presents the finest views of the lake, as well as of the massy Helvellyn which overhangs its opposite side. This is a haunted lake. A large black dog swims across it at night as often as the bells of a visionary house on the liill side are set ringing, and lights appear in the windows. A table is said to be spread in that ghostly dweUing by unseen hands, and mortal ears have heard the clatter of the plates and dishes. A murdered bride comes up from the bottom of the lake at intervals, to keep her wedding feast. Therd is a house at Armboth which really has something remarkable about it. Two or three miles off, on a bright moonlight night, the glittering windows are reflected in the lake : and, if a slight fog gives a tinge to the reflection, the appearance is that of an illummated mansion ; whereas the real hou se IS a very humble one, placed in a nook, and overshadowed bill, so that it is hardly noticeable by dayhght. From Thirlmere the road passes through the hamlet of Wythburn, from whose little inn travellers begin the ascent of Helve%u. It then descends Dunmail Piaise, 52 SUnVEY OF THlte-AKE DISTFJCT. where, as has been related, the last king of Cumbria was defeated and slain in a.d. 945. The boundary line be- tween Cumberland and AVestmoreknd is marked by the stream which rises on the east of the road, whence it is carried over the summit of Helvellyn to Ulleswater. The descent from Duumail Raise is upon Grasmere, follow- ing the com'se of the Rotha, which, rising in the Raise, runs through the lakes of Grasmere and Rydal, and falls into Windermere at its head. Grasmere is rather more than a mile in length, and rather less than a mile in breadth. It forms a small part of an area, level for the most part, but diversified by knolls, rocky or wooded, which were once, no doubt, islands, like the one which now remains in the lake, and the two which adorn its neighbour mere at Rydal. The whole is enclosed in a basin of hUls, more steep than lofty, but singularly inviting to the clouds. The amount of rain whicli falls at Grasmere is a serious drawback upon residence there, though for beauty it is by many considered incompara- ble. In the old-fashioned church of the village is a monumental medallion of "Wordsworth, with an inscrip- tion perhaps somewhat too boastful for a sacred place ; and in the churchyard are the graves of himself and his deceased children. Hartley Coleridge lies buried near his old friend. From the high peaks behind Grasmere, there are several roads through the region we are now consider- ing : viz., from the head of Langdale to the limits of the Lake District. The mail-road which we have been following proceeds southwards past Rydal lake, on the margin of which stands Hartley Coleridge's dwelling ; past the foot of Rydal Mount, so sacred to the admirers of Wordsworth ; past Rydal Park, where the charms of ancient forest and modern park are united ; through the valley of the Rotha, sheltered to the north by Fairfield, forming a great cul-de-sac, and sending down Rydal Beck, to make wateifalls in the park ; through the little post town of Ambleside, a mile from the head of Win- dermere, along the margin of Windermere, and finally to the railway station, just above TBowuess, midway down the lake. The road ceasing to be a mail route, con- tinues along the lake to Newby Bridge, at its foot ; and then the mountains and lakes being left behind, it runs down into the Furness peninsula, passing through the brisk little town of Ulverston, and the smaller town of Dalston, to Furness Abbey and the sea. This is the easternmost of the roads which traverses the region under notice. After Fairfield, the head of which is 2,950 feet above the sea level, it does not skirt any con- siderable mountain, unless Wansfell be so regarded. It rises to the height of 1,590 feet, on the eastern shore of Windermere. Tlie hill called Loiighrigg, which forms tlio central dividing ridge between the valleys of the Rotha and Brathay, of Rydal, Grasmere, and Langdale, is only 1,108 feet high. Interposing between the lofty peaks in the centre of the district and Windermere, it is the first token of subsidence towards the south. Beneath its shelter, in the valley of the Rotha, stands Fo.v How, the residence in which Dr. Arnold, of Rugby, passed his holiday seasons, and where he hoped to spend his latter years. In the same valley, and just above Ambleside, is the Stock Ghyll waterfall, — not a very mighty "force," but remarkably beautiful. Along this route, dwellings are multiplied so that, from the railway station to beyond Grasmere, there is little intermission of mansions, villas, farms, and cottages, with lauds pertaining to them. Bowness and Ambleside trade in tourists, and are busy and thriving places ; and Rydal and Grasmere see new houses rising every year. The case is different with the other roads traversing the same portion of the district. The Langdale Pikes, which command everything to the south of them, rise to the height of 2,400 (Harri- son Sticlde), and 2,300 (Pikes' Stickle), and supply several streams from their tarns. Following the course of those tams, there is one path down into the secluded Easedale, lying behind Grasmere, and another into Langdale, near the fissure in which the famous Dun- geon Ghyll Force pours its thundering flood. From Langdale, there are several passes into other vales ; — the Stake pass, leading over into Borrowdale, as we have already seen ; Rosset Ghyll pass, leading to our lofty stand point, Esk Hause, and the Wall End ascent, leading out of Langdale to the neighbouring vale, which is the scene of a considerable portion of " the Excursion" of Wordsworth. Blea Tarn in that little vale is the mere by which the Solitary dwelt. Lang- dale is remarkable for the regularity with which its opposite heights advance and recede, so as to divide the vale into areas, sometimes winding, and sometimes circular, and nowhere spreading out into a level which will admit a lake. A small stream winds through it, and the spurs of the mountains are occupied by dwell- ings above the margin of the winter inundations; the frequency of which is denoted by the paving of the roads and paths. This vale, as seen from High Close, a point of view above Langdale chajjcl, is one of the most striking in the district. Bow Fell and the Pikes close it in gradually to the north-west; the fissure of Dungeon Ghyll is clearly discernible, and the falhng foam of the beck from Stickle Tarn; thence the vale is traced by the attenuating spurs of the hills, and at the outlet, there are the prodigious Thrang Slate Quarries SUnVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. and the powder mills at Langdale chapel. Opposite is the chain of pools called Elter Water, and thence the valley widens, till it discloses AVindermere, and the boundary of Yorkshire hills beyond. It is a primitive region, this through which lay the pack-horse route to Whitehaven, before even the car- riers cart was introduced. That road is still visible, winding from Fell foot up the mountain side towards the Shire Stones, before mentioned. AVhitehaven is now reached by railway along the coast; but here, in the heart of the mountains, the pedlar still plies his trade, tramping over the passes and along the vales, and dropping into every rural dwelling, however secluded. The little chapel is itself a relic of an older time — a good specimen of the order of chapels which is dis- appearing. The place is homely ; and the people are literal and familiar beyond belief in their understand- ing of religious matters. In this very chapel, not many years ago, the clergyman, Eev. Mr. Frazer, was preaching from the te.\t "Behold, I come quickly." lie had not proceeded far in his sermon when the rotten old pulpit fell, enveloping in rubbish an elderly dame who sat just under it. As soon as he could collect himself, the pastor congratulated the good woman on her escape; but she was in no mood for sympathy, and replied, tartly, " If I'd been kilt, I'd been rcet saiTat (rightly served), for you'd threatened ye'd be eomin' doon sune." Loughrigg now rises on the left hand. At its foot on the other side, Grasmere and R3'dal lakes are lying ; while on this side a quiet little valley spreads out, to receive the waters of the Brathay, a little river which rises in Elterwater, and runs into Windermere after a junction with the Rotha. There is a pretty modem church in the Brathay valley, on a knoll which com- mands a fine view of the central mountains. The various routes have thus far joined so as to make one along the cour.se of Windermere. There is still another belonging to the same opening, which takes a parallel couree by Coniston and its lake. Leaving Langdale by the Wall End issue, it passes through the Vale of Wordsworth's Solitary, and de- scends into the valley, and down upon the tarn of Little Langdale, and to the settlement of Fell foot, whose name speaks for itself Through a wild region of slate quarries, and under the shelter of Wetheriam, it leads to the bright beautiful openings at the head of Coniston, where stands the last high mountain, and spreads the last long lake in this direction. Coniston Old Slan is the fifteenth in rank of the mountains of the district, its height being Q.GSa. The lake is si.^ miles long, and averages half a mile in breadth. At its foot the hills become undulating moorland, and the mooriand turns into red soil towards Ulverston, and into sand before it reaches the sea. The views from the Old Man (as the highest point of the mountain is called, — the usual cairn on the summit of each mountain being called " the man ") are considered finer than any in the district except those from Scawfell and Helvellyn, — if indeed those of the latter be an exception. After the tracks leading to the copper-mine are left behind, precipices spring to a great height, casting their shadows into the black tarns at their base ; and the most grotesque crags, infested with foxes, are piled up with singular wilduess. The edge of the rock at the summit overhangs Low Water Tarn at a height of 600 feet, while the tarn itself is 2,000 feet above the sea level. The " Old Man " erected here by the counti-y people, and removed by the Ordnance surveyors, who substituted an inferior one, contained a chamber of refuge, most welcome to shepherds and travellers in case of sudden storms. From that pin- nacle, the Isle of Man is conspicuous in good weather ; while in other directions may be seen Ingleborough in Yorkshire, Lancaster, and even Suowdon. Instead of the chains of lakes seen from the central peaks, there is here a fine stretch of sea ; and when the estuaries are full, the coast is a beautiful spectacle. The shores of AMudermere and Coniston, wooded, and thickly in- habited, form a gay scene nearer at hand. There is no view more thoroughly distinctive of the district than that which is commanded from the heights on the opposite (the eastern) shore of Coniston lake, near the head. Nowhere else perhaps is the grouping of the mountain peaks, and the indication of their recesses, so striking; and, as to the foreground, the overlapping of the slopes, the green undulations, the glittering water- fall on the mountain side, the diversified woods, the bright dwellings, scattered among the knolls, and the clear lake, with its boat-houses and moving skiffs, convey the strongest impression of fertility, prosperity, and comfort, nestling in the bosom of the rarest beauty. At the extremity of this region lies Furness Abbey, of which it is necessary to speak in this place only as a ruin. Its situation is beautiful, as the position of rehgious houses usually is. It stands in a wooded glen, with a stream flowing beside its walls. It must once have nearly filled the glen, in the days when its beacon- fire was visible all over Low Furness, and drew all eyes in case of disturbance or expected invasion. The remains indicate the space of sixty-five acres which its boundary-wall enclosed, and on which may still be recognised the mill, the granary, the fish-ponds, the ovens and kilns, and other oflices. The walls are of 54 SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. red stoue of the peninsula, fudod by time to tbe palest pink hue. Ferns and mosses fringe its ledges, and tall grasses grow round its fallen stones. The scent of violets is sweet within the nave in dewy spring morn- ings, and the secret staircases in the walls, and the chapter-house, where so much mystery once kept guard, are laid open to the free air and sky. The Abbey was founded in A.D. 1127 ; it flourished for four centuries, during \Yhich its abbots \Yere absolute rulers over a broad territory. It was humbled to the dust at the time of the Eeformation, so that its last abbot was glad to accept, as a life annuity, the proceeds of the rectoiy of Dalton, valued at £33. Gs. 8d. of the money of that time; and now, in the nineteenth century, it stands crumbling in its exposure to the elements ; the dwelling of its abbots, after being a farm house, has become a hotel ; and the railway passes through the glen, cutting its way through the wood, Hke the hurri- cane cleaving a path through the American forest. WESTEr.N SUEVET. We have now surveyed the northern, eastern, and southern portion of the Lake District. The western is perhaps the finest and most interesting, from its charac- teristic features and its close connexion with the group of central peaks. Scawfell itself overhangs its principal lake, — Wastwater. This portion lies within the Cum- berland boundary, and extends from the central peaks to tbe sea, and from the mountains above Crummock Water to the DudJou. The summit of Scawfell Pike is visible from EskHause. It is 3,100 feet in height-, but three more he below it, and with it compose the mountain called Scawfell. One of these. Great End, faces Borrowdale. Another, Lingmell, aflfords the best ascent on the Wastwater side. The two Pikes are about three quarters of a mile apart at their summits, being separated by the great chasm called Mickledore. The ordnance surveyors have set up a staff on a cairn on the highest peak, which cannot be henceforth mistaken by any traveller. Herdsmen and shepherds never want to go there in the way of their vocation ; for there is not a blade of grass there, nor any vegetation, e.Kcept moss. Blocks and in- clined planes of slate rock, cushioned here and there with moss, compose the peak. It is difficult of access and dangerous mthout a guide, from the abundance of its chasms and precipices ; but the view from the highest English mountain, the centre of its highlands, may well tempt the lover of fine scenery. On the one hand cluster the heights already described. On the other arc Great Gable, 2,925 feet above the sea; the Pillar, 2,893; Hay Cocks, Steeple, Bed Pike, and High Stile, above Crummock Water. From the re- markable alluvion at the base of Scawfell, Wastdalc Head, there is a striking route to Ennerdale Lake, a lake less visited than most, and less beautiful than many, but yet presenting fine features in the rocky heights amidst which it lies. It is two miles and a half long, and half a mile broad ; and it is so wUd, in the character of its shores, and in its position among the mountains, as to have caused more terrors and disasters to strangers than any other spot in the district. At every house from Wastdale Head to Ennerdale Bridge, stories may be heard of adventures and escapes of pe- destrians and horsemen in Mosedalc, and the passes of Blacksail, and Scarf Gap. A young man attempting this route some years ago, struck into the deep ravine between Great Gable and Eark Fell; and when he came out at night upon a sheet of water, was confounded to find it the same he had left in the morning. He had walked completely round Kirk Fell. "jThree young ladies passed the night on the mountain, once upon a time, from having got bewildered in this intricate region. At first their story was disbelieved ; but one ha dropped her pocket book, and another had seen a dead sheep in a particular spot; and these incidents being \erified, the adventure of the Kendal ladies remains one of the wonders of the dales. Blake Fell, a wild, high lying moor, separates Enner- dale fi-om Crummock Water. These moorlands, tree- less, except where farmhouses or sheepfolds lie in the hollows and are sheltered by sycamores ; and all grassy and undulating, with a descent towards the coast, are an interesting feature on the western skirts of the Lake District. They ai-e too exposed and dreary for some tastes ; but they have an imposing character of their own for those who are not afraid of the risks to be en- countered among them ; — risks of sultry heats, of biting cold, and of sweeping storms. From them the grouped mountains may be best studied for their forms and light and shade. From them the passing storms may be best seen hastening out to sea, and veiling and unveiling the Isle of Man. From them may be best seen the wonderful spectacle of lakes and vales lying far below in yellow sunshine and blue shadows, while the spectator is enveloped in gloom and tempest. From them too, may the coast be best surveyed, with its little ports and fishing villages lying at the mouth of each river, and stretching out on sandy promontories, washed by the surf which is noiseless so far off. The railway may be traced, emerging from woodland or enclosures, and showing its cobweb construction against the yellow sands, threading the towns and villages, as it were, upon its slender string. The smoke of Workington, at SURVEY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 55 the mouth of the Derwent, is visible from Blake Fell ; and Whitehaven with its shipping, near the bluffs of St. Bees. From Cold Fell, crossed from Eunerdale to the south, several little towns are seen lying in the gi-een hollows, or through vistas between grassy slopes. Among these is Egremont (" The Mount of Sorrow" in the original Norman). It was at the gate of Egi-emont Castle that the horn was hung in crusading days, of which Nomian tradition afforded Wordsworth so pretty a tale to tell. The ruins of the castle stand on an eminence on the seaward side of the little town, Nvhich has nothing else of romantic interest to show. Wastwater lies, as has been said, at the base of Scaw- fell. It is the most solemn and imposing of all the lakes — three miles long, half a mile wide, and in some parts reaching a depth of 270 feet, a depth considerably exceeding that of any part of either Windermere or Ulleswater. It is usually grey and shadowy, being bordered on its south-east side by the Screes. The lines of this singular range are almost unbroken in all directions. For two-thirds of their height there is a prodigious slope, — a sweep of slaty dc'hns rushing down sheer into the lake, without afford- ing any trace of a path for man or brute. TMien the summer tempest or winter gale shakes the crags above, down comes a slide, sending up dust from the shore, and spray from the water. The upper third of the height consists of crags, bare of vegetation, except where ferns line the waterdrips, and grass grows out of the crevices. Here the grey masses are relieved by red soil, and streaked with the colours found where kon is present. The great fissure called Hawlghyl], and other crevices, breathe out vapours which may be almost always seen ascending, or floating along the craggy rampart. The opposite shore is cheerful and com- paratively open. It sends several bright streams into the lake, and affords a channing succession of pro- montories and little bays, above which winds a practicable road to the marvellous recess of Wastdale Head. From a distance, the hollow in which the lake is hid is seen to lie between the bases of 3Iiddle Fell, Yewbarrow, Great Gable, all the Scawfell ridges, and the Screes. When the head of the lake is reached, a turn of the road discloses the finest " water head" in the district. As among the Alps, so here, the loveliest low-lyuig spots are the levels wliich have been won from the lakes by the hand of nature in the course of cen- turies ; and here the finest instance is at Wastdale Head. It is so shut in that exit from it appears to be impossible, except by the lake. The mountains come down with a sheer sweep to the green and perfect level, which is divided into little fields, and graced by a farm- house here and there, and a little chapel, containing eight pews. This nook has a chapel and school, and no public-house ; and if the people are not wiser, or more cleanly than those of other places, they are more sober. There is more than one exception to the reproach of dirt; and in one dwelling, at least, life may be as com- fortable as it must be picturesque in this, the veiy heart of the district. Besides the lake, the modes of egress are by the Wastdale road, just described ; by the ascent of Scaw- fell, by JMosedale, leading out between Yewbarrow and Kirk Fell ; and by the Styhead pass, into Borrowdale, the road to which is seen from below, slanting up the precipitous front of the gable to the height of 1.000 feet. This is all ; and nowhere can the seclusion of human dweUings appear more complete ; for no- where else in the district is a dalehead overhung by such lofty mountains. In descending from this nucleus of summits to the more open regions, the lit is seen making its way to the sea ; and next to the Irt, the Mite ; and next to the Mite, the Esk, which descends, as has been seen, from the watershed at Esk Hause, where the Duddon also rises. The town of Kavenglass stands on the bay formed by the estuaries of the Irt, Mite, and Esk, and it may be seen from the heights above Eskdale, which is the chief feature of the last opening pi-oposed for survey from Esk Hause. The high road which crosses these vales, in their whole series from the Duddon to the Calder, commands charming views of the heights above, the richly diversified coast below, and the valleys which widen from the one to the other. Ou the Calder, and a few miles from Wastwater, lie the rains of Calder Abbey, — a small but vei-y beautiful ruin of a Cistercian monastery, founded in a.d. 1134, and partaking in the fortunes of its neighbour abbeys. It is charmingly situated in low ground, with wooded hills closing it in ; and it is most carefully preserved. Another great object of interest among these vales is Stanley Ghyll Force, in Eskdale, — usually pronounced the finest waterfall in the district. If the fall is not the finest, its glen certainly is; — a ravine whose sides are feathered with wood from base to ridge. Two crags part to give passage to the waters, which have not to be sought in a hollow, as at Ara Force (which otherwise this fall most resembles), but are seen from a distance through an avenue of wooded heights. Above this ravine the high moorland of Bhker Fell extends from Eskdale to the valley of the Duddon. Here the lark may be heard ; and it is an infrequent X^leasure to hear the lark in a mountain region. The narrow vales are au unsafe abode for small bkds, wliile SURVFA' OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. the rocks afford a harbourage for birds of prey. The eagles are said, though -n-ith some doubt, to have dis- appeared ; very few ravens, if any, remain ; but liawks abound; and those who would hear the lark must go out to such places as Birker Moor. Here the central peaks sink out of view, being lost entirely on the verge of the Duddou valley. The deepest part of the vale, and that in wliich lie the stepping stones celebrated by TV'ordsworth, is hidden below the skirts of this raoor. It rushes among broken rocks, and is overhung with scattered masses of woodland ; but it widens and slackens as it flows, till it spreads over the level sands of its ' estuary. In this vale, which comprehends Seathwaite higher up, and Ulpha lower down the stream, the bounding heights ai-e sometimes a green and smooth pasturage, and elsewhere a rough brown heather, broken up by occasional rocks, and new plantations, or remnants of the old forest. Grey stone cottages are scattered about, and more substantial farm- steads, where the massive sycamore overhangs the roof, and the light birch casts its quivering shadows on the field plots. This is the Seathwaite (there are several), where Robert Walker, named " the Wonderful," spent the sixty-six years of his ministry. The story of the good man's vast charities and astonishing course of life is told at length in the notes to "Wordsworth's Duddon Sonnets ; and there is probably no lover of poetry in the kingdom who is unacquainted with the focts. The little churcli is much like what it was when he taught the children of the parish there, and sat spinning beside the altar, to keep himself warm by exercise, — sending the children in detachments to his household fire. Tlie turf seat round the old yew is there, and the old men rest on it still, after their walk over hill and dale. The little sun-dial is there,— the whitened post which tells the time in summer to neighbours who have no clocks. The neat white cottage is there, with its frontage of evergreens and roses, where Robert Walker lived, and which is still the parsonage. Here, in 1802, he died, after having been curalc of Seathwaite for sixty-six 5-ears, and an example to all country pastors for all time. The man- ners of his day were those of a preceding century ; and strong traces are found of their peculiarities wherever an old-fashioned pastor and flock keep themselves secluded in their own vale. Odd sprinklings of learning are found here, as over the border, where Englishmen would hardly look for them; and there seems to bo hardly any medium between scholarship and absolute ignuranci of books and what they teach. It was in Ulpha, in this vale, that Gunson the innkeeper lived, to whom some travelling students sent a note in Latin, requesting to have their bill. Gunson immediately sent in the bill in Greek, which was too much for the young '"men, who were humbled to ask for it in English. It was here that the farmer lived who rebuked his " heigh- larned" wife for declaring, in a trying time, that she did not fear poverty, but could be content with food and raiment. " Thoo fule," said the husband : '• thoo dusn't think thoo'st to hev mair than other folk. Tse content wi' meeat and claes." It is in these vales that the people retain the primitive custom of doing on Sunday any farm-work to which the weather — so precarious among the hills — is favourable, with the sanction, as in Switzerland, of " the priest," as the curate is called. It was in the chapel at Ulpha that "the blind priest" officiated, a few years since, who was not only on the most famihar terms with his people, but apt to jest from the pulpit, like the pastors of the Reformation, and of many a century before. When the bell rang rather early, one Sunday morning, calling the people unex- pectedly from tending their stock, farmer T was out after some cow, pig, or sheep, and was the last to enter the church. As he came " thunuerin' down the aisle," the priest inquired " Wha's comin' now ?" and, being informed by the clerk that it was John T , he inquired further, " a-foot or a-horseback ?" The old characteristics are, as has been seen, dying out ; but it is in these comparatively untrodden vales, lying off from the high road, that they will linger longest. Yet the railway spans the estuary of the Duddou, within view from a point not much lower down than tliis old Ulpha Kirk. A wild and pleasant mountain track leads from the vale over Walna Scar to Coniston. The high road runs south to Broughton, where, four miles from the bridge at Ulpha Kirk, the head of the Furness peninsula is reached. Such is the Lake District of England, seen from end to end, across and ai'ound, in and out. It contains within its small compass a wonderful aggregation of beauties, by which the northern counties are distin- guished, and must continue to be so, from aU others south of the border. Englishmen who have never visited Switzerland or the Tyrol have missed what cer- tainly is unequalled in the way of natural scenery : but next to those transcendent displays of the charms of earth, water, and sky, there is perhaps no region which combines so many features of grandeur and beauty as the Lake District of CuaiberlanJ and Westmoreland. dtograpljixal j£sat|tic(ii of Ciinikrkiib. SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, EXTENT, POPULATION, DIVISIONS, ETC. CuMBEELAND is a maritime, lake, and border county, extending from 54° 11' to 55° 12' north latitude, and from 2° 17' to 3" 37' west longitude. It is of an irregu- lar oblong form, bounded on the north by Scotland and the Solway Frith, on the west by the Irish Sea, on the south by Lancashire and Westmoreland, and on the east by Dui'ham and Northumberland. Its length from Eavenglass to Spadeadam Waste is 64 miles, its greatest breadth 34 miles, average breadth 22 miles, and circuit about 215 miles, 75 of which are coast. The area of the county is 1,565 square miles, or 1,001,273 statute acres, of which about 300,000 are mountain and lake. The population in 1801 was 117,230; in 1811, 133,605; in 1821, 156,124; in 1831, 169,202; in 1841, 178,038; and in 1851, 195,492 ; showing an increase of 60 per cent in the number of inhabitants during the last fifty years; of this number 90,244 were males, and 99,248 females. There were, in 1851, 36,763 inhabited houses, 1,545 uninhabited, and 239 in process of erection; the num- ber of persons to a square mile was 125, of inhabited houses 23 ; the number of persons to a house was 5 '3, of acres to a person 5-1, and of acres to a house 27-2. Cumberland was formerly divided into five wards (divisions similar to the hundreds of the midland and southern counties), viz. :— Cumberland, Allerdale-below- Derwent, AUerdale-above-Derwent, Leath, and Eslcdale ; but, in 1833, a new ward, that of Derwent, embracing portions of the two Allerdales, was formed for magisterial purposes, and for taxes, in 1843. At the quarter ses- sions held at Carlisle, October 20th, 1857, the ward of Allerdale- above -Derwent was still further cui-tailed, and a new division formed from it, viz. : — the Bootle Division.' This new arrangement, which came into operation on the 1st January, 1858, does not extend to police purposes. For the election of members of parliament the old arrangement of wards is still fol- lowed, Cumberland, Eskdale, and Leath wards forming the eastern division, and the two Allerdales the western. Cumberland contains one city, Carlisle ; the parliamen- tary boroughs of Cockermouth and AVhitehaven; and the market towns of Alston, Aspatria, Bootle, Bramp- ton, Egremont, Harrington, Hesket Newmarket, Ireby, Keswick, Kirkoswald, Longtown, Maryport, Penrith, Eavenglass, Wigton, and Workington. For ecclesiastical purposes the county is comprehended in the province of York, and the diocese of Carlisle, with the exception of the parishes of Alston and Over Denton, which belong to the diocese of Durham. The ward of AlIerdale-above-Derwent, formerly in the dio- cese of Chester, was, under tlie provisions of 6 and 7 Wilham IV., c. 77, and of an order in council dated 10th August, 1847, annexed to the see of Carlisle, on the demise of Bishop Percy, in 1856. .According to the Census of Religious AVorship, taken in 1851, it ajJiiears that there were at that period 389 places of worship, of which 161 belonged to the Church of England, 130 to the Wesleyau Methodists, 24 to the Independents, 17 to the Scottish Presbyterians, 9 to the Baptists, 8 1 This new [division embraces the parishes of Bootle, Comey, Muucaster, 'Waberthwaite, Whicham, and Whilbeck; and the town- ships of Birker and Austhwaite, Milloni, and CHpha, in tlie parish of Millom, and the townships of Eskdale, and Wasdale, in the parish of St. Bees. 58 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMIiEELAXD. to the Catholics, and 3-4 to the smaller bodies. The uumber of sittings provided by the Church of England was 58,688 ; by the Wesleyau Methodists, 26,489 ; by the Independents, 7,247 ; by the Scottish Pres- byterians, 0,070; by the Catholics, 2,877; by the Baptists, 2,290 ; and by others, 0,707, making a total of 110,374 sittings. Cumberland is included in the Northern Circuit, and the assizes are held at Carlisle twice a year. The Mid- summer and Christmas quarter sessions are held at the same place, and the Easter and Michaelmas at Cooker- mouth. County courts are held at Alston, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Keswick, Penrith, Whitehaven, and Wig- ton. The county returns four members to the imperial parUament, two for the eastern and two for the western tlivision. Carlisle sends two members, the borough of Cockermouth two, and Whitehaven one. Under the provisions of the Poor Law Amendment Act, Cumber- land was apportioned into the following nine unions, viz. : — Alston, Penrith, Brampton, Longtown, Car- lisle, Wigton, Cockermouth, Whitehaven, and Bootle ; the statistics, &c., of which will be found in the notices of the parishes and townships in which the workhouses are situated. Cumberland is said to have given the title of earl to Eandulph de Meschines, but we have nothing upon which we can depend as authentic to confirm this. In 1525, Henry, Lord Clifford, was created Earl of Cum- berland, and the dignity continued in his family till the demise of Heniy of the fifth earl, in 1643. It was revived the following year, in favour of Prince Rupert, but only to become extinct on his death, in 1682. Prince George of Denmark was the next who bore the tide, which he enjoyed from 1689 till his decease, in 1708, when the title of earl was discontinued. In 1723, Prince William Augustus, son of George II., was created Duke of Cumberland, but dying without issue, in 1763, the dukedom remained in abeyance for two years, when it was given to Prince Henry Frederick, brother of George III., who also died childless, in 1790. In 1799, Ernest Augustus, fifth sou of George III., was Cleared Duke of Cumberland, and held the dignity till his demise, in 1851, when the title descended to his son, the present King of Hanover, and Duke of Cumberland. StJRFACE. The surface of this county is considerably diversi- fied, the east and south-west being very mountainous, rugged, and uneven, while the north and north-west pajts ai-e low and flat, or gently undulating. Hills, valleys, and ridges of elevated ground occupy the centre. The mountainous district in the south-west is the , most interesting to the traveller, for here are situated Saddleback, Skiddaw, and Helvellyn, and the lakes of Ulleswater, Thirlmere, Derwentwater, and Basseuth- waite, whose beautiful and romantic scenery annually attracts tourists from every part of the kingdom, from the Continent, and even from America. Several of the other districts, though not mountainous, are hilly, and present an endless variety of landscape. Some of the valleys are traversed by rivers, and afford, perhaps, a greater variety of delightful scenery than any other county. The mountains of Cumberland are exceedingly numerous, and many of them immense in elevation and singular in structure. They enter into the composition of almost every view, and either by their sublime heights, their romantic forms, the dignified grandeur of their aspects, the immensity of rocks composing them, or the imposing, wild, and awful majesty of their appearance, are peculiarly calculated to excite our interest and admiration. Two distinct ranges run, the one towards the north, to which belongs the Cross Fell ridge ; the other and most gigantic towards the south, of which the highest summit, Skiddaw, is 3,022 feet above the level of the sea. Besides this noted peak, the most striking of the loftier mountains, which are termed fells, and are familiar to tourists, are Scawfell, Saddleback, Helvel- lyn, Bow Fell, Grasmere FeU, Wrynose, High Pike, Pillar, &c., the scenery of which, in general, is abrupt and bold. Between these grander heights are many liO-ls of various degrees of elevation ; some of them cut through by clear and rapid torrents ; othei-s based in richly wooded, highly cultivated valleys, fertilised by quiet brooks and rivers ; others dipping their precipitous and craggy sides down into the beautiful and celebrated lakes, the picturesque and varied beauties of which have so often been described in "stately prose and melodious verse." The following are the names and altitudes of the principal mountains, and the districts in which they are situated : — Name. Situation. Altl udc in Feet Scawfell (high point) Eskdale 3,100 Helvellyn Keswick 3,05.5 Skiddaw Keswick 3,023 Bow Fell Eskdalo 2,ni] Cross FeU Alston 2,001 Pillar Wastwater 2,893 Saddleback Keswick 2,787 Grasmere FeU Keswick 2,750 High riUe Hesket Newmarket 2,101 Black Combo Duddon Mouth i,nn) Dent Hill Egremont 1,110 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CVMEEHLAND. 59 EIVERS. The principal rivers of Cumberland are the Eden, Esk, Derwcnt, Duddon, and Eamont, with their numer- ous tributaiy streams. The Eden rises on the borders of Westmoreland, on the side of Hugh's Seat, one of the mountains of the Pennine Chain, and passing Kirkby Stephen and Appleby, shortly afterwards quits the county for Cum- berland. Its course in Westmoreland is about thirty miles, no part of which is ua^^gable. It has numerous affluents, among which may he named the Beelah, or Belay, the Helbeck, the Troutbeck, and the Crowdundale on the right bank, and the Leath and the Eamont on the left bank. The Eden entei-s Cumberland on the south, and runs to the east of Penrith, passing Kirk- oswald, Armathwaite, Corby, Warwick Bridge, and Carlisle, receiving in its course the Croglin and the Irthiug on its right bank, and the Petteril and the Caldew on its left, and discharges itself into the Solway Frith, near Piockliffe, where it forms a fine estuary. The scenery along the coast of this river in Cumberland, which is about thirty-five miles, is veiy varied and beautiful ; the banks being adorned by the mansions and pleasure-grounds of Skirwith Abbey, Eden Hall, Nuuneiy, Armathwaite, Low House, Corby Castle, Warwick Hall, and Eickerby. The Esk, which gives name to Eskdale Ward, is formed by the junction of the Black and Wliite Esk, the former of which rising near Ettrick Pen, in Dumfries- shire, runs past Eskdale Muir to Kingpool, to join the 'White Esk from the same part — thence it goes through some fine scenery in Eskdale, by West Kirk, Longholm, '■■ Cannobie Lea," across the border to Netherby, flowing through a beautiful valley, in a south-west direction to Longtown, and after receiving the waters of the Liddell and the Line falls into the Solway Frith, near Rockliffe Marsh. Its course in Cumberland is about ten miles. The Derwent has its source in Sparkling Tarn, among the mountainous crags at the head of Borrowdale, and having poured its foaming waters over vaiious precipices, passes through Styhead Tarn, and forms the lake of Derwentwater at Keswijk, where it is joined by the Greta. It then pursues its course through an extensive tract of meadow land to Bassenthwaite Water, from which it emerges at Ousebridge. Again confined in a rocky channel, it takes a westerly direction, and flows rapidly through a narrow vale to Cockermouth, where it is joined by the waters of the Cocker, and then pursues its course through a more open country to the sea at Worldngton. The scenery along the whole ex- tent of this river is exceedingly varied and interesting. It is, perhaps, the most limpid and colourless stream in England. The Duddon, Green tells us, in his own picturesque style, " is a fine river, and its feeders flow precipitously in theii- descent to the valley. It rises on the Three County Stones on Wrynose, from which place to its junction with the Msh sea, it separates the counties of Cumberland and Lancashire At GoldiiU Crag it brightens into agitation, and, after various changes, becomes at Wallowbarrow Crag one scene of rude commotion, forming in its course a succession, not of high, but finely formed waterfalls. But these furious waters, suddenly slumbering, become entranced, dis- playing little signs of life along the pleasant plains of Douuerdale. At Ulpha Bridge suspended animation is again succeeded by the clamorous war of stones and waters, which assail the ear of the traveller all the way to Duddon Bridge. From that place to the sea it passes on in an uninterrupted and harmonious calm- ness." The sea flows nearlj' nine miles up its channel, and its estuaiy contains about 13,000 acres of land at low water. The Eamont takes its rise in the lake of Ulleswater, which is supplied by several smaller streams. From the most northern portion of the lake, the Eamont flows iu a north-westerly direction along the Cumberland border to the point where the Eden leaves Westmoreland and falls into that river. This is a remarkably clear and limpid stream and is much resorted to by anglers. We subjoin the other rivers in aljihabetical order. The Bleng has its souixe near Ponsonby Fell, and after passing near Gosforth, fells into the Irt between Nether Wasdale and Santon, after a course of about six miles. The Calder rises not far from Ennerdale Water, and, taking a south-westerly direction, flows by Calder Abbey, between Ponsonby and Stella Park, falling into the sea at Calder-foot, after a course of about eight miles. The Caldew, which is called near its source Cald-beck and Caldew-beck, rises on Caldbeck Fell, in the vicinity of Skiddaw, and runs twenty-five miles, in a northerly dnection to the river Eden at Carlisle,' passing in its course Hesket Newmarket, Sebergham, and Dalston. The Cocker issues from Buttermere lake, and passes through Crummock Water, to the north of which a pretty large stream connects it with Loweswater. It afterwards passes northward, a little more to the east, intersects the vale of Lorton, and flowing onwards to Cockermouth, joins the Derwent; its course from Crummock Water to Cockermouth being about six miles. The Croglin rises at Hoftenside Beacon, on Thack- thom Fell. It then takes a west-south-westerly CO GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. direction, and contributing to the beautiful scener)- at Nunneiy, where it forms several cascades, after a course of twelve miles falls into the Eden. The Ellen or Elne rises from Caldbeck Fells, and passing by Uldalc, Ireby, Bolton, Torpenbow, Whitehall, Harley Brow, Bleuncrhasset, Aspatria, Hayton Castle, Outerby, AUerby, Dearham, Ellenborough, and Nether- hall, enters the sea at Maryport, after a course of about eighteen miles. The Ehen or Enn flows out of Ennerdale Water, passes by Ennerdale Chapel, Cleator, Egremont, and St. Bride, and after a course of about eleven miles from the lake, falls into the sea at Enn-foot. The Esk, in Allerdale-above-Derwent Ward, is formed by the junction of some small streams which rise near Bow Fell. It then runs through the valley of Eskdale, and passing by Muncaster and Waberthwaite, falls into the sea at Piavenglass. Its course is about thirteen miles. The Gelt rises in Croglin Fell, and passing through Geltsdale, and near Castle Carrock, falls into the Irthing, near Corby. Near to where the river is crossed by the bridge ou the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway there is some very beautiful scenery. The Greta is formed by the junction of St. John's Beck from Thirlmere, and the Glenderamakin from Mungrisdale, by way of Threlkeld ; and after receiving the Glenderaterra from between Skiddaw and Saddle- back, it passes Keswick and joins the Derwent, soon after that river issues from Derwentwater. When the rains are heavy, the Greta often rises so suddenly as to cause the Derwent to flow back to the lake, which is speedily filled from all quarters. The Irt, issuing from Wastwater, passes by Nether Wasdale, Santou.Irton, betneen Driggand Carlton, and falls into the sea in the neighbourhood of Eaveuglass, after a course of about eight miles. The Irthing has its source in Spadeadam Moss, on the borders of Northumberland, and runs about thirty miles south-east past Naworth Castle and Lanercost Abboy to the river Eden at Warwick Bridge, receiving in its course the Ivingwater, near AValton, and the Gelt, below Irthington. Some very fine scenery adorns the banks of this river. The Kershope is a small stream, which for a course of about si.x miles from Dove Crag to its junction witli the Liddell forms the boundary between Cumberland and Scotland. The Kingwater rises near Side Common, and after a course of about ten miles falls into the Irthing. The Line is formed by the junction of two streams rising near Christenburgh Crags, called Black Line and White Line, which unite about ten miles from their source, and afterwards pass Shank Castle, BrackenhUI, Kirklinton, and Westlinton, and fall into the Esk, not far from its junction with the sea. The course of the Line, after the confluence of the two streams, is about twelve miles. The Liddell rises in Scotland, and for about eight miles forms the boundary between that country and Cumberland, falling ultimately into the Esk. The Lowther has its source at the foot of Shap Fells, in the middle of Westmoreland; and flowing at first north-east, and gradually afterwards due north, passes Shap Abbey, about two miles beyond which it receives the waters of a small stream from Haweswater, and passing by Lowther Castle, finally joins the Eamout, near Brougham Castle, at a point about two miles south-east of Penrith. The Mite has a course of about seven miles. It rises in Burn-moor Tarn, and runs through Miterdale, faUing into the sea at Ravenglass. The Nent rises in the south-eastern extremity of the parish of Alston, and falls into the South Tyne, near the town of Alston, after a course of about si.^ miles. The Petteril is formed by the union of several small streams, which flow from Greystoke Park, Skelton, and Hutton, and proceeding northwards falls into the Eden in the neighbourhood of Carlisle. Near Penrith this river is 430, and near Upperby 70 feet above the level of the sea — its average fall per mile is twenty- four feet. The Sark runs between Cumberland and Scotland for about si.x miles, near Solway Moss, and empties itself into the Solway Frith. The South Tyne has its source in a swamp or bog ground about seven miles east by south from the summit of Cross Fell, and a little below Alston enters Northum- berland. The Tees rises in the same swamp, about a mile from the source of the South Tyne, and for nearly fouy miles forms the boundaiy between Cumberland and Westmoreland. The Wampool has its source in Brocklebauk Fells, at Dockwray joins the Wiza, which rises near Piosley, and runs by Westward, Old Carlisle, and Wigtou. After the junction of the two streams, the Wampool passes by Gamblcsby, and falls into the sea[about half a mile west of luikbride, its coui-so being about twelve miles. The Waver has its origin in Brocklebauk and Cald- beck Fells, and flows by Waverton, Duudraw, and Abbey Holme, falling into the sea about half a mile from the latter place, after a course of twelve miles. GEOGRArHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. 61 The larger rivers abound with sahnon, trout, brand- ling, and various Itinds of fish, and the smaller streams with trout and eels. LAKES, TAKXS, ETC. The principal lakes of the county are Ulleswater, between Cumberland and Westmoreland ; Thirlmere, at the entrance of the Vale of St. John ; Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite, connected by a stream in the Vale of Keswick; Buttermere, in the north-east of Borrowdale, and to the north a little, Crummook Water and Lowes- water ; the three last mentioned connected by the Cocker, which running northwardly through the fine vale of Lorton, falls into the Derweut at Cockermouth. Besides these, and Overwater,W^ast\vater,Osmerdale, and Devock- water, there are several smaller lakes, called tarns — Burn-moor Tarn, at the head of Miterdale ; Tarn Wad- ling, near High Hesket ; Talkin Tarn, in the parish of Haytou ; Martin Tarn, in that of Wigton ; &c. All the lakes are well stocked with fish, particularly with trout, pike, and perch. Ulleswater, Ennerdale, Crum- mock, and Buttermere contain char. Tarn Wadling is said to produce some of the finest carp in the kingdom. The following is a tabular view of the principal Cum- berland lakes : — Lakes. Nearest Length Breadth Depth Height in feet above Market Towns. Miles. Miles. Feet. the level of the sea. Ulleswater ... Penrith 9 ,,„ 380 Bassenthwaite. Keswick i 08 aio Derwentwater . Keswick 3 72 528 Crumraock ... Cockermouth. 3 153 240 Wastwater ... Ravenglass ... 3 370 ICO Thirlmere Keswick 2J lOS 473 Ennerdale Whitehaven... 2^ 80 _ Buttermere ... Keswick H 00 2i7 Loweswatei ... Cockermouth. 1 i CO — There are several picturesque waterfalls, of which the following are the principal, with their respective situations and height in feet : — Scale Force, near But- termere, 190 ; Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, 194; Lowdore Cascade, near Keswick, 100 ; Soui-Milk Force, near Buttermere, 90 ; Airey Force, Gowbarrow Park, 80 ; Nunnery Cascade, Croglin, 60. In addition to the tarns, cascades, &c., just enume- rated, this county possesses the following natural curiosities ; — The Bowder Stone, in Borrowdale ; the grand and varied echoes of Ulleswater; saline springs at Crosthwaite, Drigg, Gilcrux, Stanger, &c. ; sulphur springs at Aikton; sulphureous springs at Biglands and Bewcastle ; sulphureous and chalybeate at Melmer- by ; chalybeate at Bewcastle, Brampton, Great Salkeld, and Iron Gill, in Sebergham ; Gilsland Spa, near Lanercost, whose waters are similar to those of Har- rogate, in Yorkshire ; medicinal waters at Holywell, at Lanercost, and Kirkland, in Wigton ; a mineral spring at Rockliffe, the water of which tints paper a beautiful gold colour ; and a petrifying sprmg at Sebergham.' EO.iDS, TURNPIKE TRUSTS, .\SD BRIDGES. Cumberland is crossed from south to north, and from east to west, by two important roads ; one of which, from south to north, is a principal road from London to Edinburgh and Glasgow. It enters the county near Penrith, and passing by Plurapton Wall, Plumpton Street, High and Low Hesket, and Carleton, reaches Carlisle : from which place it proceeds through Stanwix, Blackford, Westlinton, and Arthuret, to Longtown, about four miles beyond which it quits the county for Scotland, previously giving off a branch three miles north of Carhsle to Glasgow, by Gretna. The road from east to west extends from Newcastle, by Nether Denton and Brampton, to Carlisle, where it crosses the great north road. It then proceeds by two branches, the one through Old Carlisle, joined by the Wigton road, and the other past Bassenthwaite Water to Cockermouth, and thence to Whitehaven and the Irish Sea. There is also a cross road from Penrith through Keswick, where it meets another froq| Kendal to Cockermouth, and from Penrith to Hexham, etc., joined to which, at Alston Moor, another road crosses the south-western extremity of Northumberland to Brampton, and thence to Longtown. Many other roads radiate from and in- tercommunicate with these, which are the principal roads in the county. From " The Abstract of the General Statements of the Receipts and Expenditure on account of the highways of the parishes, townships, etc., in the several counties of England and AVales, for the year ending 2.jth March, 1855," which was pre- sented to parliament July 10th, 1857, we learn the following particulars relative to the highways of this county: — Number of returns, 230. Balance, 25th March, 1851: in hand, ±'3,114 12s. 4d.; overspent, £314 15s. 4d. Receipts : from rates or assessments, £13,758 lis. lOd. ; team labour performed in lieu of rates, £191 4s. 2d.; other work performed in lieu of rates, £94 Us.; turnpike trusts, £22 lis. 5d. ; other 1 A more detailecl account of the various mountains, lakes, tarn &c., will he found in the article ou the Lake District, hy Harrii Martineau, at page 38 ; as also in the accounts of the various parishe &c., in which they are situated. 62 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUirBERLAND. receipts, £881 3s. 9d.; total, £'li, 948 r,s.M. Expen- diture: manual labour, £7,286 3s. 6ii. ; team labour, £1,9.50 7s. 4d.; materials, £2,853 7s. 8d.; tradesmen's bills, £809 9s. 9d.; salaries, £606 ]0s. lid.; team labour performed in lieu of rates, £191 4s. 2d.; other ■work performed in Lieu of rates, £94 14s. ; turnpike trusts, £121 5s. lid.; other payments, £961 6s. 4d.; total, £14,873 15s. 7d. Balance, 25th March, 1855 : iu hand, £2,364 16s. Id. ; overspent, £490 9s. 6d. An abstract of the general statements of the income and expenditure of the several turnpike ti'usts in Eng- land and Wales, from January 1st to December 31st, 1854, was laid before parliament in November, 1856. From this document it appears that the income derived from the fourteen tui'npike trusts in Cumberland was as follows: — Parish composition, in lieu of statute duty, £285 lis. lid.; fines, £0 18s. 9d.; incidental receipts, £315 4s.; total, £13,786 6s. 6d.— Expenditure : manual laboui-, £4,899 5s.; team labour and carriage of ma- terials, £1,856 6s. Od.; materials for surface repairs, £728 lis. 8d. ; land purchased, £ 11 15s.; damage done in obtaining materials, £20 8s. 8d.; tradesmen's bills, £242 18s. 8d.; treasurers' salaries, £166 Is. lid.; clerks' ditto, £261 14s. 6d.; surveyors' ditto, £762 Is.; law charges, £400 4s. 8d. ; interest of debt, £1,790 2s. 8d.; improvements, £602 9s.l0d.; debts paid off, £400 ; in- cidental expenses, £308 lis. lid.; total, £12,450 12s. Debts: bonded or mortgage, £91,499 13s. 5d., at 2 per cent.; floating, £20; unpaid interest, £742 7s. 6d.; balance due to treasurers, 31st of December, 1854, £612 8s. 9d.; total, £92,824 9s. 8d. — Arrears of Income: arrears of tolls for current year, £78 ]5s. ; arrears of parish composition for current year, £187 2s. lOd.; arrears of former years, £7 IBs. 9d.; balance in treasurers' hands, 31st of December, 1854, £2,800 8s. 3d.; total assets, £3,074 4s. lOd. There are two hundred and forty-eight bridges throughout the county of Cumberland, a list of -which we subjoin, with their situations, and the waters which they cross : — AVhat water across. Parishes where b Kames of Bridges Abbey Lanercost Abbey Mill, or KawortU Nawortb, or Cumcitch Brampton Galo Beck Aircy Aircy, or Dockwray Groystoke Allonby Mclo Beck Bromfield Alston Tyno Alston Antbom Anthom Beck Bnwness Ellen riumbUnJ Eden Ainstablo Beck Waver Kirbeck Arkleby Armathwaite Armatbwaite Little Ashes nstiiblf and ITcsket Bock Grange Bell Blackford Cairn Cttldew Blackford Beck St. John's and St. Brid- llayton SebcrKliani Kirklinton and SUmvix Names of Bridges. Blennerhasset Bolton Gate Boot, Distir.glon What water across. rarishes where g Blackbock Blackburn Blacksyke Bridgefoot Bridgofoot Briggill W'hitbeck PctterU Bleug Bleng Lostrigg, Man-ow Briggill Brongh Ilill Broiighton Beck Bullgill Eiimside Burthwaite Bustabeck, Little Bustabeck Calder Bridge Calleywath, or Hutton Calthwaite, Little Csponcleugh Brough Hill Beck Dovenby Beck Ellen Heather Burthwaite Beck Bustabeck Carwiuley, High Carwinley, Low Chalkside Cliapel Bridge Cleator. East Cleator, West Cockbridge Cocker Bridge Colliergate Crofton Croglin. High Crookdall Crosby Crossgill Dacre, High Dacre, Low Dalemain Dale Kaven Dearham Derwent, Cockennouth Dodd, or Longwathby Down-in-the-Dale Calley. or Dacre Beck Petteril Calthwaite Beck Cam beck ;Naworth Beck Caldew Eden Carwinley Burn Carwinley Bum Colliergate Beck Wharopool Croglin Water Crosby Beck Crossgill Bum Calley, or Dacre Beck Callev, or Dacre Beck Calley, or Dacre Beck Dale Karen Ellen Derwent BriggiU Down-in.the Dale Beck Highberry Beck Eamont Ehen St. Bridget's and Haile Hesket and Hutton Wigton and Bolton Brigham Greystoke Gosforth Gosforth Torpenhow Bolton Distington St. Boos St. Cuthbert's Dean Workington Brigham Addiogham and Long- wathby Brom6eId Penrith; half of bridge in Westmoreland Bolton Bridekirk Gilcrux and Crosscan- Bassenthwaite Castls Sfiwerby and Irthington Brampton .St. Mary St, Mary and Stanwii Arthuret and Kirk- Sebergbam and West- Bassentbwaite Cleator Extra-parochial Brigham Arlecdon and Lamplngli Tlmrsby and Westward Croglin and Kirkoswald Wigton and Bromfield Dacre Addiugham and Kirk- Dearham Brigham Addingham and Long- St. Bees (in Wastdale Head) Stanwix Aikton and Thursby Penrith; half of bridge iu Westmorland Kgremont Egremont Kgremont and St. John's Arlecdon Errning HUl Chalk Thursby Petteril Hesket FanUlsinill PartofllaUburn Artburet Forest Irt St. B.-es (in Nether Wast- Friar Waingate Kingwater Abbey Lanercost GarrigiU Gale Tyno Alston Gate Caldlwck, Littlebcck Caldbeck Gattle, High Gattle Kirkandrcws Gattlo, Old Gattlo Kirliandrews Cattle, Low Gattle Klrkandn'ws Gattle, Smalrastown No water or water course KH-kamlrows Gelt, High, or Castle Ci^ck Gelt Castle Carrock and Hay- Gelt, Low, New Gelt Branipton and Havton Celt, Low, Old Gelt Brampton and Havton Gelt, Middle Gelt Hayton GEOGRAPHICAL DESCUIPTIOX OF CUMBERLAND. 63 Names of Briilges. GUdcraaale Glencoyne What water across. Gildcrsdale Bura Glencoyno Beck Glingcr Foot Glinger Bum Greystoko Old PotterU Ilailo Kirbeck Ilairbeck Hairbeck llallburii Hallbum llaltcliffo CaldeiT Uarraby Petieril Harrington,orBeckstone Harrington Beck Hazlerigg Dale Raven Hesket Newmarket Caldew HighbeiTy 1 nighberry Beck Holmerooke Irt Howeiid Hallbum Howford Heather Howwath Wbampool Button Uall Ircby, Low Ellen Irthing Irthing Isel Derwent Wisa Keekle Keekle. Low Keeklo KidburagUl Ciilbeck Kirkcambeck Cambeck Kii-koswald Raven Laiths Petferil Lamb Gicndermackin Lanefoot Marrow Lazonby Eden • Leader Distington Beck Leiisebow, or Leases Whitbeck Leases Galebeck Le..«ate Cnimmock Little Salkeld Melmerby Beck, Longwatbby Eden Lorton, High Whitbeck lorton, Low Cocker Longtown Esk Longtown, HtUo Longtown Littlel Lostrigg Lostrigg Lowhouses Lowhouses Bum LowmiU Caldew Lowntbwaito Lowathwaite Bee Ijowrow Lowrow Beck Marbleflat Slarblebeck Maryport Ellen MatterdaIe,orDockwTay Dockwray Beck Meckliii Mecklin Beck Melmerby, High Melmerby Beck Melmerby, Low Jlelmerby Beck Micklethwaite Whampool Caldbeck Mill Millrigg Moorhouse Mill Mountain Beck Mosedale Mumpsball Muncaster Muncaster Mill Mungrisdale Nenthall Kenthead Nentsbury Netherbeck Newbiggin Newbiggin Newby Newmills Newsham North Rowbeck Nunnery Onsebridge Overbeck Parcelstown Pealgill Peelwjko Crowdundale Beck Derwont Overbeck Not known ^¥ave^ Pealgill Bum Dubwath LiddeU Parishes where situate. Alston; half of bridg in Northumberlan d Greysloke; half of bridge in Westmoruland Kirkandrcws Greystoke Haile Gosforth Arthnret Greystoke and Caldbeck St. Cuthbort's Harrington Addingham Castle Sowerby and Caldbeck Scaleby and Irthington Castle Sowerby and Dal- Arthuret Kirklinton Aikton and Kirkbride Button Ireby Brampton Isel Wigton and Westward Arlecdonand Distington Cleator Arlecdon Abbey Lanercost Kirkoswald Skeltnn Greystoke Aviecdon and Lamplngh Lazonby and Kirkos- Distington Brigham Melmerby Wiglou and Bromfield Addingham Edendailand Longwatb- by Brigham Brigham Arthnret and Kirkan- Arthuret Dean Alston Greystoke and Caldbeck Kirkland; half of bridge in Westmoreland Abbey Lanercost and Denton Denton Crosscannonby Greystoke Melmerby Melmerby Thursby and Wigton Caldbeck Wigton Kirkland; half in West- moreland Thursby and Wigton Drigg and Carleton Greystoke and Caldbeck Abbey Lanercost and Denton Muncaster, half in Mil- St. Bees (in Wastdale) Kirkland ; half in West- moreland St. Cuthbert's Irthincrton and Hayton Brampton Greystoke Bassenthwaite Ainstable and Kirkos- Bassenthwaite St. Bees (in Wastdale) Arthnret Bolton Skelton Not known Kirkandrews; half in Scotland Caldbeck PetH!ril Petteril Petteril Names of Bridges. Pikelandsgate Plumpton Foot Plumpton, High Plumpton Street Pooley Poorhouse, or Kirkgate Hudbeck Potterbank Townend Beck Powdreigh No regular water Powmangham Powmangham Priestbridge Doveuby Beck Rack Lyne Kaven, High Raven Red Dial Wisa Rethwaite Waver Eobertsgato Blackbeck Roebanks Roe Eontonsyke Bleng Irthing Kushgill Bum Sandraw Beck Sandy Beck Sandysyke Part of Sark Millrace Cocker Scarrow HUl Beck Dovenby Beck Caldew Raygill Beck Waver Briggill Beck Skirwith, Little Beck Briggle Beck Som-steps Beck t water across. Parishes where s Sandraw Sandy Beck Sandysyke Santon Bridjfe Sark Skirwith, Little Skirwith Mill Som-steps Southwaite Stakes Stockdalewath Street .Stubb Sunderland Sunnygill Thorpe Trough Hoa: Ullock Unthank Walk Mill Walk MiU Wath Warwick Waterside Waver Bridge, or Low Water Waverton Westlinton Whahouse Whelpow Wheygill Whitbeck Wisa Wisa, Low Wolt Woodrow Workington Petteril Esk Slarrow Dale Raven Walk Water Keekle Ehen Caldbeck, Little Eeck Waver Waver Wisa Troutbeck Waver Derwent Caldbeck Hesket and Lazonby Penrith Hesket and Lazonby Dacre; half in West- moreland Brigham Kirkoswald Arthnret Wetheral and Warwick Bridekirk Stapleton Kirkoswald and Ren- Westward Westward St. Bridget's and Hallo Castle Sowerby and St. Mary's Castle Sowerby Sebergham and West- Arlecdon Gosforth Bramptonand Irthington Castle Sowerby and Skel- Bromfield Arthuret Kirkandrews; half in Scotland Kirkandrews Brigham Abbey Lanercost and Denton Bridekirk Sebergham Kirkoswald Bolton Kirkland Kirkland Kirkland Kirkland and Long. wathby Hesket St. Bridget's Castle Sowerby and Dalston St. John's and Haile Wigton Isel Melmerby and Onsby St.Bees (in NetherWast- dale) Abbey Lanercost and Denton; half in North- umberland Greystoke and Cros- thwaite Greystoke St. Bees (in Eskdale) Bassenthwaite Cleator Cleator Caldbeck Wetheral Wigton Wigton Kirklinton and Arthuret St. Bees'(in Eskdale) Caldbeck Castle Sowerby Wigton Wigton Greystoke Wigton Workington It would be superfluous ou our part to make anj- remarks on the great benefits that have been conferred upon the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland by the introduction and general use of railways. The 64 GEOGR.VPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. extension of commerce — cheap and facile transit for agricultural, mineral, and other produce — improve- ments in harbours — the increase in the manufacture of iron, (tc, are some of the results of the formation of railways in this district; and sufficiently testify by their favourable influence on the social condition of the population, the great benefits already procured for these two counties. The railways at present existing in the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland are the following : — a portion of the Caledonian, the Carlisle and Silloth Bay, the Cockermouth and Work- ington, the Kendal and Windermere, the greater portion of the Lancaster and Carlisle, the Maryport and Carlisle, a portion of the Newcastle and Carlisle, the Port Carlisle, a portion of the Ulverstone and Lancaster, the Whitehaven, Cleator, and Egremont, the greater portion of the Whitehaven and Furness, and the Whitehaven Junction. The Caledonian was incorporated by the 8 and 9 Vic. cap. 16'2, for a line from Carlisle to a junction with the Scottish Central at Castlecary, with branches diverging therefrom at Cairstairs, to Edinburgh and Glasgow. From Carlisle, the line proceeds across the Calder by a viaduct, and thence over the river Eden by another viaduct, after which, it passes by King Moor and Kook- liffe station, and crosses the Esk by a viaduct of seven arches, thence passing over the Glasgow road and along the Guards' embankment, formed through a deep moss which absorbed thousands of tons of earth before the foundation was sufficiently sohd to bear a train, it shortly afterwards crosses the Sark, and quits Cumberland. The Carlisle and Silloth Bay Company was incorpo- rated July 10th, 1855, to make a railway from the Port Carlisle line at Drumburgh to the boat lighthouse in SiUoth Bay, and a dock and a jetty at the latter place. The first soil of the railway was cut at Drumburgh, on the 31st of August, 1855, the works were at once commenced, and the line opened on the 98th of August, 1856. The line is identical with that to Port Carlisle for eight miles and a half, two-thirds of the length of the latter. The Silloth line commences strictly at Drumburgh. At the village of Kirkbride there is a station for the convenience of the locality. Three miles further west, not far from where the Wampool and the Waver cuter Morecambc Bay, the line passes within a short distance of Long Newton, or Newton Arlosh, and a little past Abbey Holme, where there is a station, passes through the heaviest cutting in its whole extent, viz., Kingside Hill, and shortly after- wards arrives at Silloth. The Cockermouth and Workington Company was incorporated iu July, 1845, by the 8 and 9 Vict. cap. 120. The line is from Cockermouth to Workington Harboui-, where it joins the Whitehaven line. Its length is eight and a half miles; and it was opened throughout 28th April, 1847. After leaving Working- ton, the stations are Workington Bridge, Camerton, Broughton Cross, Brigham, aud Cockermouth, where the line at present terminates. The Kendal aud Windermere Company was incorpo- rated by 8 and 9 Vic. cap. 32, (1845), for a line from the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway at Oxenholme to Birthwaite, near Windermere Lake, ten and a quarter miles. The line was opened on the 21st of April, 1847. The stations on the line after leaving Oxenholme, are Burnside, Staveley, and Windermere. The Lancaster and Carlisle Company was incorpo- rated by 7 and 8 Vic, cap. 37, (1844), for a single line, in the first instance, until the Act authorising the Caledonian was passed, when it was made a double line, continuing the Lancaster and Preston to Carlisle, and there forming a junction with the Caledonian. Cost, £'22,000 per mile. Length, seventy miles. The joint station at Carlisle was built at a cost of £] 64,500, of which the Caledonian contributed £63,367. By an arrangement with the Glasgow and South Western, and Maryport and Carlisle, they have become joint tenants of that station. This hue enters Westmoreland from Lancashire, and passing the Burton and Holme station soon reaches jMilnthorpe, whence it crosses the canal at the tunnel, and pursues its course through a fine and well-wooded country to the village of Sedgwick, where the magnitude of the Sedgwick embankment is seen to advantage. Its course is now by Natland to Oxenholme, previous to which the Burton turnpike road is crossed, about two miles south of Kendal ; and after passing an embankment, and through some heavy rock cutting. Oxenholme station is reached, where the line is joined by the Kendal and Windermere Railway, which a£fords an easy and delightful means of access to the Lake District. A fine view of the town of Kendal is enjoyed at this station ; whilst far beyond rise the mountains of the west, the giants of the Lake District. From Oxenholme, the line proceeds upon embankments aud through cuttings, with occasional views of Kendal and its ruined castle ; and soon after passing the Birk- land cutting, skirts the base of the lofty Benson Knot, one of the highest hills iu the neighbourhood, and passing thence through heavy rock cuttings and across an embankment, reaches Docker Gill viaduct, one of the most beautiful structures on the line. A mile from tliis splendid piece of work Graygrigg summit is reached, where a heavy cutting of hard material, called samel, is passed through ; and another mile onward is the Low 65 Gill embankment, one of the highest in England. After passing Low Gill station, the line skirts the Dillicar hills, and soon afterwards passes through the great Dillicar cut, and is then carried over the Borrow Water, near its junction with the Lune, upon a neat viaduct. Borrow Bridge, a romantic spot, celebrated for trout fishing, the scenery about which is the most beautiful along the whole line, is ne.xt passed, and the traveller seems to be completely hemmed in on all sides by stupendous bills. The village of Borrow Bridge appears on the right, at a short distance from the line, which, passing through the Borrow Bridge cutting, reaches the Lune embankment, 1)5 feet deep, formed through the old bed of the river, which has been diverted from its course, through a tunnel excavated in the solid rock, 50 feet from the top, and made nearly parallel to the ravine. Proceeding onwards, the Lune excava- tions, Loup's Fell cutting, the Birbeck embankment, and the Birbeck viaduct, are passed, shortly after- wards the foot of the great iucHne — a plain of eight miles — rising 1 in 75, is reached. Proceeding from Tebay station, Shap Wells is reached, the line passing through the Fells, over which Prince Charles Edward and his army marched in 1745 ; and, leaving the Shap summit, a cutting through limestone rock is entered, and before it approaches Shap village the line runs through a circle of large boulder stones, said to be the inner circle of an ancient Druidical temple. From Shap the line proceeds on the east side of the town of Shap, along a heavy cutting, and passing thence under a skew bridge along the flat portion of the route, called Shap Mines, and, following the valley of the stream, it again runs under the turnpike road, and thence passes Thrimby, through a thick plantation. Here the cha- racter of the scenery is considerably altered, the bare, rugged, and sterile mountains being succeeded by fertile pastures and picturesque prospects. The Kendal turnpike road is crossed, for the last time, by a skew bridge at Clifton, near the entrance to Lowther Park and Castle, the seat of the Earl of Lonsdale. The scenery between Shap and Clifton is very attractive — Cross Fell, Saddleback, Skiddaw, and the other hills in the Lake District appearing to great advantage. From Clifton station the Hne proceeds along the Lowther embankment, and about 50 miles from Lancaster and 20 from Carlisle crosses the river Lowther on a magni- ficent viaduct, 100 feet above the stream ; its arches, sk in number, are of 60 feet span each. A mile and a half beyond, the line crosses the Earaont, on a viaduct of great beauty, consisting of five semi-cheular arches. Leaving the county of Westmoreland at this point, the line enters Cumbei-land, and shortly afterwards passes through a large cutting, and then, runuing nearly level to the town of Penrith, reaches the station adjoining the ruins of the ancient castle. From Penrith the country is flat and uninteresting. The line enters the valley of the Petteril, through which it pursues almost a direct course to Carlisle, past the following stations : — Plump- ton, Calthwaite, Southwaitc, and Wreay. The Maryport and Carlisle was incorporated by Act 1 Vic. cap. Ill (1837),— 28 miles. It was opened, Maryport to Aspatria, loth July, 1840; Carlisle to Wigton, in May, 1844; and completed 10th May, 1845. The Act of 1855 (17 and 18 Vic. cap. 79, June 26th) provides that new capital, for doubling the line and other improvements, may be raised to the extent of £77,712 10s. in £12 10s. shares, making a total of £420,000, with borrowing powers to the extent of £135,000. Lea^'ing Maryport, and passing Dearham Station, the line reaches Bull Gill, and SA miles further comes to Aspatria, jpleasantly situated on the river Ellen ; it shortly afterwards arrives at Brayton. After crossing the Waver it reaches Leegate, 3 J miles beyond which is Wigton, and passing Curthwaite and Dalstou stations, arrives at Carlisle. The Newcastle and Carlisle was incorporated on the 22nd of May, 1829, as a line between these two towns, crossing from the east to the west coast of England ; also a branch-line of 12 miles to Alston, and one to Swalwell. Total length, 78^ miles now open. A short extension from Alston to Nenthead is in abeyance. This hne enters Cumberland near Piose Hill station, and passing Low Eow and Milton, in the neighbourhood of Brampton, crosses the ravine of the Gelt by a skew bridge of three arches, and arrives at How Mill station, close to which is Haytou Church, and in the distance may be seen the white turrets of Edmond Castle and Castle Carrock Church. The next station is Wetheral, ■where the Eden is crossed by a magnificent bridge, con- sisting of five semicircular arches, each of SO feet span, and raised to an elevation of 99^ feet above the summer level of the stream, with a parapet of 4i- feet in height. The entire length of the bridge is 624 feet. ■ The situa- tion of this viaduct is perhaps unrivalled.- Looking from it towards the south the spectator has a fuU view of both sides of the river and their noble woods, the grounds of Corby, and the ancient church of Wetheral; and turning in the opposite direction, he is charmed with the exten- sive prospect before him, embracing as it does every variety of rural beauty, and terminating in the distant mountains of Scotland. Leaving AVetheral, the line passes by Scotby and arrives at Carlisle. The Port Carlisle Piailway was incorporated August 4th, 1853, by the act 17 Vic. cap. 119, for converting the 66 GEOGEAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. canal between Carlisle aud Port Carlisle into a railway. It was opened for goods on May JJ2nd, 1854, and on the 32nd of the following June for passengers. Quitting Carlisle, the line passes Kirkandrews and Burgh stations, from the latter of which it proceeds by Dram- burgh aud Glasson to Port Carlisle, a total distance of 11 J miles. The Ulverstone and Lancaster was incorporated by Act 14 aud 15 Vic. cap. 102, 24th July, 1851, for a railway from the Furness at Ulverstone, to a junction with the Lancaster aud Carlisle at Cai-uforth, seven miles north of Lancaster, thus completing a direct line from Whitehaven and the west coast of Cumberland to the south of England. The T^^litehaven, Cleator, and Egremont Company was incorporated by the 17th and 18th Vic. cap. 64, June 16th, 1854. The share capital amounts to £75,000, with borrowing powers to the extent of one- third of that amount. The line, including the Egre- mont branch, is about seven miles in length from the point at which it joins the Whitehaven and Furness Junction Railway. It was opened for the conveyance of passengers on June 1st, 1857, having previously, for about eighteen months, been in use for mineral traffic. The Whitehaven and Furness' Company was incor- porated aist of July, 1845, by the 8 and 9 Vic. cap. 100, for a railway from Whitehaven to a junction with the Furness, near Dalton; and subsequently extended to a junction at Whitehaven, with the Whitehaven Junction, and fixing the junction with the Furness at Foxfield, neai- Broughton: total length, 35 miles. On leaving Brouglitou, and crossing the Duddon by a wooden bridge, the luie enters Cumberland, and then proceeds along the coast by Green Road, Under Hill, Holborn Hill, Silecroft, Bootle, Eskmeals, Ravenglass, Drigg, Seascales, Sellafield, Braystones, Xethertown, St. Bees, and Corkicle stations, to Whitehaven. The Whitehaven Junction was incorporated on the .30th of June, 1844, for a railway from the Maryport Junction (Maryport and Carlisle), to Workington Junc- tion (Cockcrmouth and Workington), to Whitehaven (Whitehaven and Furness). Length, 12 miles. On quitting Whitehaven, Farton is the first station reached, whence the line proceeds by Harrington, Workington, and Flimby, to Maryport. In addition to these the following lines are projected: The Carlisle and Hamck, the Lancaster and Carlisle and Ingleton, and the Eden Valley. CJ,IMATE, SOU., AGRICULTURE, ETC. The climate, as might be readily inferred from the great extent of coast, and the numerous and lofty mountains, is various, the elevated portions of the county being cold aud piercing, while the lower paits are mild and temperate. The whole county, however, is exposed to wet and variable weather, particularly in the autumn, yet it is very salubrious, and remarkable for the longevity of its inhabitants. Lysons has a list of 144 persons of not less than 100 years of age who were buried between the years 1663 and 1814. The greatest ages are, Robert Brown, aged 110, buried at Arthuret, in 1606; Richard Green, 114, at Dacre, in 1680 ; Thomas Fearon, 112, Bridekirk, in 1701 ; Jane Hodgson, 114, Harrington, in 1717; Thomas Dicken- son, 112, Bootle, 1745; Mary Singleten, 110, Dear- ham ; Rev. George Braithwaite, 110, Carlisle, in 1753 : Mark Noble, 113, Corney, in 176B ; aud James Bell, 113, Penrith, 1772. John Taylor, who died in 1772, aged 135, was noticed in a communication of Bishop Lytletton's to the Society of Antiquaries. The obi- tuary of the Gentleman's Magazine also records Ann AVUson, 110, Alston, 1705; John Noble, 114, Comey, 1772; aud John Maxwell, 132, Keswick Lake. The annual mean quantity of rain at Carlisle is about thirty inches ; at Wigton, thirty-four inches ; at Whitehaven, fifty inches ; and at Keswick, sixty-eight inches. Api-il. on an average, is the driest month in the year ; the wet months are July, August, September, and October, in each of which about twice as much rain falls as in April ; and about one-third less rain faUs in the first sis months of the year than in the last six months. The soil of this county varies considerably, often differing much in the same parish, and sometimes even in the same field. The mountainous districts are bleak and barren, the prevailing soils being mossy, or dry gravel covered with heath, and they are chiefly used as sheep pastures and preserves for moor-game. Some good land of dry brown loam is found in the valleys and on the sides of the smaller mountains ; and on the margins of the rivers there is much valuable ground, consisting of a rich brown loam. On the coast, the soil is a light sand, or gravel. The lowland country, extending from Carlisle in every direction for about thirty miles, is fertile, though a considerable portion of it is cold wet loam, and black peat earth ; this land has been much improved by draining, wliich is now carried on to a great extent, and with the best results. There is a good deal of fertile clayey loam, in the neighbour- hood of Wigton ; while sand and light loam prevail near Brampton, and likewise near Penrith. In the west of the county, there is some wet soil on a clay bottom, and also some hazel mould. The subsoil, in many places, is a wet sterile clay. In consequence of the cultivation of extensive commons and waste lands, the aspect of GOVERNMENT OF THE COUKTY, ETC. 67 this county has been completely changed. Within the last sL\ty years more than 250,000 acres have been enclosed. Many of the commons, which previously aflorded only a scanty pasturage to a few half-starved sheep and cattle, are uow covered with fertile cornfields and profitable herbage, and have hawthorn fences, good roads, and commodious farm buildings. '■ The agriculture of the county," says a recent writer, '■has improved considerably of late yeai-s, and great quantities of com, and other kinds of produce, are now exported. Cattle, sheep, poultry, grain, potatoes, butter, bacon, &c., are the principal exports, and are shipped from Whitehaven, Port Carlisle, Workington, and Maryport. The land bemg generally divided mto small farms, the dairies are necessarily on a small scale, but theu- produce is excellent, aud commands a high price in the market. Many of the farms do not exceed 100 acres, and some are not more than 40 or 50 acres. They are generally let on short leases. Many persons, provincially called statesmen, occupy thek own land, which, in some instances, have been possessed by the same family for centuries in an unbroken line of descent, and this circumstance gives them an air of independence which forms a peculiar trait in their character. In some places, a small part of the land lies in open town fields, which cannot have the benefit of the common improvement in husbandry. In other places, there are certain common lands that are annually stocked with horses and cattle, on a fixed day, by the owners or occupiers. These lands are always in grass. In the high and mountainous districts the chief object of attention, on the part of the farmer, is their sheep stock, though, of late yeai-s, a large portion of the liigh lyiug land has been brought into cultivation. In some of these places the climate is cold, the com backward, and the harvest late. The valleys and low ground are cultivated chiefly for grain, aud produce excellent crops of wheat, barley, and oats ; these are alternated with turnips and potatoes, or fallow. Some of the lands that are well supphed with water, are kept as meadows or pastures for dairies, and for rearing and fattening cattle. Candlemas is the usual time for entering upon farms, and the rents are paid half-yearly, in equal por- tions, at Lammas and Candlemas. The modem fai-m- houses have a handsome appearance, being generally built of stone, and roofed with blue slate. The old farm buildings and cottages have clay or mud walls, and are thatched with straw. There is a great variety of cattle and sheep. A peculiar breed of sheep, called Herdwicks, from their being fanned out to herds at a yearly sum, is met with on the mountains, at the head of the Duddon and Esk rivers. The ewes and wethers, and many of the tups, are polled ; their faces aud legs speckled, and the wool short and coai-se. They are lively and hardy little animals. The tups are in great request, to improve the hardiness of other flocks. There are several agricultural societies and cattle shows in the county, which give a stimulus to agricul- ture, and encourage improvements in the breed of live stock, by distributing rewards and premiums. At Car- lisle, Whitehaven, and Penrith, are horticultural and floral societies, which are well supported, and are of service in exciting attention to the cultivation of fruits govi:rsi£EST of the couxtt, etc. The division of England into counties, as well as into hundreds and tythings, is ascribed to Alfred, but there is evidence that some counties bore their names, and had those divisions, 150 years earlier. The govern- ment of coimties is vested in several officers, the chief of whom is the lord lieutentant, whose office was insti- tuted in England in the third yeai- of the reign of Edward VI., 1519. This officer is regai-ded as the chief magistrate of the county, and his appointment, which is vested in the crown, is veiy rarely bestowed upon any but a supporter of the government for the time being. The office is held during pleasure. The duty of the lord lieutenant is to organise and superin- tend the discipline of the mflitia of his county, the command of which is vested in him. He is empowered to select, from amongst the principal gentlemen of the county, deputy lieutenants, who are to officer that force, aud in his absence to be his representatives. He may, therefore, in the event of war or civil commotion, be regarded as responsible for the defence of the county, and, as a necessary consequence of that, he is the sole disposer of the patronage of the militia. The lord lieutenant is also generally cmtos rotulonmi, or keeper of the roUs and records of the county. The following have held this high and important office for Cumber- land : — 1689, Sir John Lowther, Bart, (afterwards Viscount Lonsdale); Charles, Earl of Egremont ; IT] 5, Henry Lowther, tliird Viscount Lonsdale. The office has since remained in the Lowther family, and is now held by the present Earl of Lonsdale. ^ The next officer in dignity and authority is the sheriff, upon whom the civil administration has long devolved. He receives the charge of the county under letters patent, direct from the monaixh ; though in ancient times he was appointed by the freeholders of the county. The office is held for one year, formeriy it was I See accpnnt of tbe Lowtlier family at a subsequent page. GS GEOGEArHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. hold for a much longer period. lu his judicial capacity, the sheriff presides at the county court, and by him all county meetings are summoned ; the election of the county members, and of the coroners, is conducted by him, and he makes a return of those duly elected. He is unable, however, to try any criminal offence, and can- not act as an ordinary justice of the peace during his term of office. As a keeper of the Queen's peace he is strictly the first man in the county, and superior to every noble within the shire. In the preservation of the peace he is armed with ample powers, and for his assistance he may command all the people of the county to attend him; these form the ^;os.se comitatus. In his ministerial capacity he executes all writs and other processes directed to him from the courts ; he summons and returns the juries for all trials, and is responsible for the due execution of the judgment of the courts, civil or criminal, — from the exaction of a farthing damages to the execution of capital punishment. As the king's bailiff, the rights of the crown are in his especial custody : he must seize all lands devolving on the crown by attainder or escheat, levy all fines, take charge of all waifs or strays, etc. The following are the high sheriiTs of Cumberland from 1155 to the present time. Eustachius de Baliol, for •i years. Eoger de Leyburne, for 2 years. William de Dacre. Eanulph do Dacre, for 3 years. Edwaed I. Eobt.de Chauncey, bishop of Carlisle, for 2 years. Robert de Hampton, for 3 years. Jobn de Swynburn. Gilbert de Culwen, for i years. Robert de Bras, for 3 yrs. Michael de Hercla, for la years. William de JIulcastre, for 5 years. Jobn de Lucy, for 2 years. William de Mulcastre, for 3 years. Edwahd it. Andrew de Hercla, for 1 5 years. Anthony, Lord Lucy. Henry de Moulton. Robert de Bruyn. Edward III. PcterdeTilliol, forS years. Eanulph de Dacre, for 0 years. Richard de Denton. Anthonydo Lucy,for7yrs. Hugh de Moresby, for 2 Henky II. 1202. 1155. Mildred de Carlisle. 1150. Richard de Lucy. 1200. 1157. Robert Fitz-Troyte, forlC years. 12CS. 1173. Adam, son of the said 1209. . Robert, for 2 years. 117.0. Robert de Vaux,for 10 yrg. na5. Hugh de Morewick, for 4 j.^,^ years. EicHAr.D I. 1275. 1100. William Fitz AdeUne, for 9 years. 1277. 1190. Robert de Tatershall. 1279. John. 1200. William de Stuterille, for {-^•'• 4i years. 1280. Robert, Lord Courtney, for 1^ years. ■^~"«- 1206 Eoger do Lacy, for 5 years. Eobert de Veteripont. ''^'f^';- Hugh, Lord de Neville, l'^"'^- 1210 1211 for 4 years. 1215 Eobert, Lord de Eoos. 121C Eobert de Vaux. 1308. Henry III. .„,„ Eobert de Veteripont, for J'~^- WaUer Vauclerk, bishop ^^^0. 1217 1222 ofCarlisle,for 10 years. 1233 Thomas do Multon, for 4 1327. years. 1330. 1237 William de Dacre, for 12 years. 1338. 1240 Jc.hndeBaliol,for7years. 1337. 125C William de Fortibus, for 1343. 5 years. 1201 Eobert do Muucaster. 1315. Thomas de Lucy, for 5 yrs. 1350. Eichard de Denton, for 2 1352. Hugh de Loutbre.for 3 yrs. 1356. Wilham de Thirlkeld. 1357. Eobert deTylliol,for2yrs. 1359. William do Lancaster, for 2 years. 1301. Eobert deTylliol, for 2 yrs. 1303. Christopher de Moresby, for 4 years. 1307. William de Windesor, for 2 years. 1309. AdamdeParving,for3yrs. 1372. John de Denton. 1373. Eobert de Jlowbi-ay. 1374. John de Derwentwater. 1375. Jobn de Denton. 1370. John de Derwentwater. 1377. John le Bruyn. ElCHAKD II. 1378. John de Derwentwater. 1379. William de Stapleton. 1380. Gilbert Curwen. 1381. John de Derwentvater. 1382. Amand Monceaux. 1383. Robert Parving. 1384. Amand Monceaux. 1380. John Thirlewall. 1380. Amand Jlonceaux. l;3S7 John Thirlewall. 1388. Peter Tylliol. 1380. John Ireby. 1300. Eichard Redman. 1391. Christopher Moresby. 1392. Jobn Ireby. 1303 Thomas Musgra^-'e. 1391 Richard Redman. 1395 Peter Tylliol. 1390 John Ireby. 1397 Eichard Redman. 1398 William Curwen. 1399 Eichard Redman. Henky IV. 1400 William Legh. 1401 William Lowther. 1402 Riohard Redman. 1403 WiUiam Osmunderly. 1404 Peter Tylliol, for 2 years. 1400 Richard Skelton. 1407 William Lowther. 1408 Robert Lowther, for 2 yrs. 1410 John de la More. 141] Robert Rotington. Henry V. 1413 Richard Redman. 1414 Isaac Harrington. 1415 William Stapleton. 141C Christopher Curwen. 1417 John Lancaster. 1418 William Osmunderiey. 1419 Robert Lowther. 1420 John Lamplugh. 1421 William Stapleton. 1422 Nicholas Radcliffe. Henby VI. 1423 William Legh. 1424 Christopher Culwen. 1425 Christopher IMoresby. 1420 Ki,.]„,l„^ Kn^lrliff... 1427 .T(.l'ii r, ,•: •., ',,!. 1428 1429 ('ill. -. 1 ... 1 ■■.!. .!.\. 1430 Thuiiu>, ,.,■ 1,. .'.;.. ic.' 1431 John Pemiington. 1432 John Skelton. 1133 John Lamplugh. 1434. Christopher Culwen. 1435. John Pennington. 1430. John Broughton. 1437. Henry Fenwick. 1438. Christopher Curwen. 1439. Christopher Moresby. 1440. Hugh Lowther. 1441. John Skelton. 1442. WilUam Stapleton. 1443. Thomas Beauchamp. 1444. Thomas de la More. 1445. Christopher Ciinveu. 144B. John Skelton. 1447. John Broughton. 1448. Thomas de la More. 1449. Thomas Crackenlhorp. 1450. Thomas Curwen. 1451. John Skelton. 1452. Robert Vaux. 1453. Thomas de la Jlore. 1454. * » 1455. John Hodleston. 145U. Hugh Lowther. 1457. Thomas Curwen. 1458. Eichard Salkeld. 1459. Henry Fenwick. Edwap.d IV. 1401. Eichard Salkeld. 1402. Eobert Vaux, for 2 years. 1404. John Hodleston. 1405. Thomas Lamplugh. 140C. Richard Salkeld. 1407. Eobert Vaux. Ii03. Jobn Hodleston, for 2 years. 1470. William Legh. 1471. Clu-istopher Moresby. 1472. WiUiam Parr. 1473. John Hodleston. 1474. William Legh, for 2 years. 1470. Richard, Duke of Glou- cester, for 5 years. ElCHAED III. 1484. Richard Salkeld. 1485. John Crackenthorp. Heney VII. 1480. Christopher Moresby. 1487. » 1488. Christopher Moresby. 1489. Thomas Beauchamp. 1490. • 1491. • 1492. John Musgrave. 1493. • 1494. Edward Redman. 1495. Richard Salkeld. 1490. Christopher Moresby. 1497. Thomas Beauchamp. 1498. Christopher Dacre, for 7 years. 1500. Hugh Hutton. 1500. Christopher Dacre. 1507. John Hodleston. 1508. John Eadclyfte. Henry VIIL 1510. Thomas Curwen. 1511. John rouniiigton. 1512. John Skelton. 1013. John Crackeuthorji. 1514. ICdwnrd Musgrave. 1015. .John Radcljffe. 1010. John Lowther. 1517. Thomas Curwen. 1518. Gawen Eglesfield. 1519. John Radcliffe. 1520. Edward Musgrave. SHEKLFFS OF CUMBERLAND. C9 15-21. • • • 15'^2. Christopher Dacre. 1523. • 1524. John Eadcljffn. 1595. Christopher Curwen. 1526. Christopher Dacre. 1527. John Badclyffe. 1525. Edward Musgrave. 1529. WilHara Pennington. 1530. Thomas Wharton. 1531. Richard Irton. 1532. Christopher Dacre. 1533. William Musgrave. 1534. Christopher Curwen. 1535. Cuthbert Hutton. 1536. Thomas Wharton. 1537. Thomas Curwen. 1538. John Lamplugh. 1539. John Thwaytes. 1540. Thomas Wharton. 1541. Thomas Dalston. 1542. WiUiam Musgrave. 1543. John Lowther. 1544. Thomas Salkeld. 1545. Edward Aglionby. 1546. Thomas Sandford. Edwaed YI. 1547. Thomas Wharton. 1548. JohnLegh. 1549. John Lamplugh. 1550. John Lowther. 1551. Richard Eglesfield. 1552. William . Mary. 1553. Thomas Legh 1554. Richard Mu 1555. Thomas Sandford. 1550. Robert Lamplugh. 1557. John Legh. Elizabeth. 1559. WiUiam Pennington. 15G0. Thomas Dacre. 1501. Thomas Lamplugh. 1562. Hugh Ayscough. 1503. William Musgrave. 1564. Anthony Hodlestou. 1565. Christopher Dacre. 1560. William Pennington. 1507. Richard Lowther. 1508. John Dalston. 1509. Cuthbert Musgrave. 1570. Simon Musgrave. 1571. Henry Curwen. 1572. George Lamplugh. 1573. John Lamplugh. 157J. William Musgrave. 1575. Anthony Hodleston. 1570. Richard Salkeld. 1577. Henry Tolson. 1578. John Dalston. 1579. George Salkeld. 1580. Francis Lamplugh. 1581. John Lamplugh. 1582. Henry Curwen. 1583. Christopher Dacre. . 1584. Wilfrid Lawson. 1585. John Dalston. 1586. John Midleton. 1587. George Salkeld. 1588. John Dalston. 15S9. Richard Lowther. 1590. Henry Curwen. 1591. Christopher Pickering 1592. John Southaik. 1593. WiUiam Musgrave. 1594. Gerard Lowther. 1595. John Dalston. 1590. Lancelot Salkeld. 1597. Christopher Dalston. 1598. Wilfrid Lawson. 1599. Thomas Salkeld. 16U0. Joseph Pennington. 1001. Nicholas Curwen. 1002. WUliam Orfeiu:. James I. 1003. Edmund Dudley. 1604. W'iUiam Hutton. 1005. John Dalston. 1600. Christopher Pickering. 1007. Wilfrid Lawson. 1608. Christopher Pickering. 1609. Henry Blencowe. 1010. William Hutton. 1011. Joseph Pennington. 1012. Christopher Pickering. 1613. Wilfrid Lawson. 1614. Thomas Lamplugh. 1015. Edward Musgrave. 1016. Eichai-d Fletcher. 1617. William Musgrave. 1618. William Hodleston. 1619. George Dalston. 1620. Henry Curwen. 1621. John Lamplugh. 1622. Henry Featherstonehaugh. 1023. Dudley. 1024. Richard Sandford. Charles I. 1625. Richard Fletcher. 1626. Henry Blencowe. 1627. Peter Senhouse. 162S. Christopher Dalston. 1629. WiUiam Layton. 1630. WiUiam Musgrave. 1631. Christopher Richmond. 1632. Leonard Dykes. 1633. John Skelton. 1634. William Orfeur. 1035. Richard Barwise. 1636. Wilfrid Lawson. 1037. Patricius Curwen. 1638. Timothy Dacre. 1639. Timothy Featherstonehangh 1040. » 1041. Christopher Lowther, Ert. 1042. Henry Fletcher, Bart. 1043. ... 1644. • , „ . . f Thomas Lamplugh. ■"'"I Wilfrid Lawson. 1646. WilUam Briscoe. (WiUiam Briscoe. Henry Tolson. 1648. John Barwys. COHIIOSWEALTH. 1649. John Barwys. 1650. Charles Howard. 1651. W^iUiam Briscoe. 1652. John Bai-wys. ,„,„ (WiUiam Halton. •^^"'■■^ I Wilfrid Lawson. 1654. Wilfrid Lawson, for 4 years. 1658. George Fletcher, Bart. 1659. WiUiam Pennington. Charles II. 1660. WUUam Pennington. 1601. Daniel Fleming. 1002. John Lowther. 1063. Francis Salkeld. 1604. John Lamplugh. 1605. Thomas Davyson. 1647 1000. WiUiam Dalston. 1067. Richard Tolson. 1008. WiUiam Layton. 1009. Miles Pennington. 1070. Thomas Curwen. 1071. Anthony Bouche. 1072. Richard Patrickson. 1736. John Dalston. 1737. WilUam Hicks. 1738. John Gaskarth. 1739. Joseph Dacre Appleby. 17iO. Richard Cook. 1741. Montague Farrer. nry Fletcher. 1073. Bernard Kirkbride, for 2 1743. Humphrey Senhouse. years. l^^l- Jerome TuUie. 1675. WiiUam' Orfeur, for 2 1745. Joshua Lucock. years l'''^"- Christopher Pattinson. 1677. W^iUiam' Blennerhasset, 1747. Thomas Whitfield. for 2 years. I'^S- Walter Lutwick. 1679. WiU'rid Lawson. I'iO- Henry Richmond. 1680. George Fletcher, Bart. Jolm Ponsonby. 1681. Leonard Dvkes,for 2 jrs. 1750. Richard Hylton. 1683. Edward Hassel. 1V51. George Irton. 1684. Andrew Hodleston. 1752. George Dalston. ^^ 1753. Henry Curwen. James 11. j-^^ WiUiam Fleming ]^rll- w°,r"'*p^"'^'T'^T?I^t 1^55: Timothy Featherstinebaugh }??!!• ;j\;ll>amPemjington,Bart. ^^gg_ AVUfrid Lawson, Bart. TNI... . K ■yi^'j^ John Stephenson. 1758. John Senhouse. 1759. James Spedding. B7. John Dalston, Bart. 1088. Henry Curwen. Wllliam and Mary. 1689. Edward Stanley. 1690. Wilfrid Lawson. 1691. Richard Lamplugh. John Gale. 1700. WiUiam Dalston. George III. 1692. Christopher Richmond. i7gi_ jo]m Langton. 1693. Joseph Hodleston. j-g.i. John Richardson 1091. Henry Broughton. jygg, Henry Aglionby. W^illiam III. 1T64. Henry Ellison. 1095. John Ballendvne. 1765. Samuel Irton. 1696. John Ponsonby. 1766. John Chnstian. 1697. John Latus. 1"67. Thomas Lutwick 1 698. Timothy Featherstonehaugh 1768. GUfnd Lawson 1699. Thomas Dawes. 1700. Robert Carieton. 1701. Thomas Lamplugh. Anxe. 1702. Richard Crackenthorpe 1703. John Dalston. 1704. John Senhouse. 1705. John Briscoe. 1700. Christopher Curwen. 1707. Robert Pennington. 1708. Richard Lamplugh. 1709. Richard Hutton. 1710. WiUiam Ballentine. 1711. Robert Blacklock. 17 12. John Fisher. ] 713. Charies Dalston. 1714. Thomas Pattiuson. George I. 1715. Humphrey Senhouse. 1716. Thomas Broughton. 1717. Henry Blencowe. 1718. Robert Lamplugh. 1719. John Ponsonby. 1720. Thomas Fletcher. 1721. John Stanley. 1722. Joshua Laithes. 1723. Peter Brougham. 1724. Joseph Dacre Appleby 1725. John Fletcher. 1720. Thomas Lutwick. 1727. John Ballentine. George II. 1728. Edward Hassel. 1729. Gustavus Thompson. 1730. Eldred Curwen. 1769. John Robinson. 1770. Michael le Fleming. 1771. John Spedding. 1772. WiUiam Hicks. 1773. John Dixon. 1774. George E. Stanley. 1775. Anthony Benn. 177(i. Roger Williamson. 1777. Robert Waters. 1778. John Briscoe. 1779. WiUiam Hasell. 1780. Christopher AgUonby. 1781. Thomas Storey. 1782. WUliam Dacre. 1783. John Orfeur Yates. 1784. John Christian. 1785. Edwai'd Knubley. 1786. William Wilson. 1787. Thomas Whelpdale. 1788. Frederick F. Vane. 1789. Thomas Denton. 1790. WUliam Browne. 1791. Edward L. Irton. 1792. Edward HasseU. 1793. Thomas Eattinson. 1794. WUliam H. Milboume. 1795. James Graham, Bai-t. 1796. James Graham, of Bai-ock Lodge. 1797. Hugh Parkin. 1798. Sir Richard Hodgson. 1799. John Hamilton. 1800. Sir John C. Musgrave. 1801. Su- Wilfrid Lawson, Bart. I8O2! Edward HasseU. 1803. Robert Warwick. 1731. Richard Musgrave, Bart. ISOl! J;;'- ^ »^,,„,. 1732. Edward Stanley. 1733. Henry AgUonby. 1734. John Benn. 1735. Fletcher Partys. 1806. J. B. D. Dykes. 1807. J. Tomlinson. 1S08. Thomas Irvin. 70 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. 1809. 1810. 1811. 1813. 1813. 1814. 1815. 18ie. 1820. 1821. 1832. 1823. 1824. 1830. 1831. 1832. Miles Ponsonby. Sir Henry Fletcher. Jolm Losli. Thomas Hartley. Sir Wastel Brisco. T. Benson. AV. Ponsonby Johnson. William Brown. Sir Philip Musgrave,Brt. Milham Hartlev. Thomas Salkelj. Geokge IV. Wilfrid Lawson. John Marshall. William Crackenthorpe. Edward Stanley. Thomas Henry Graham. Matthew Atkinson. Humphrey Senhouse. William James. Thomas Parker. Edward W. Hassell. Wnjxui IV. C. Parker. J. Taylor. Henry Howaid. S3:l. Henry Curwen. ^•'U. Henry Howard. '^:I5. liicliard l-'oi-gusou. bW. Thomas Irwin. 1837. Sir F. F. Vane, Bart. 1838. John Dixon. Id39. Thomas Hartley. 1840. Sir George Musgrave. 1841. J. R. Walker. 1842. F. L. B. Dykes. 1843. Robert Hodgson. 1844. George Harrison. 1845. T. Featherstonehaugh. 1840. Joseph P. Senhouse. 1847. G. W. Hartley. 1848. H. D. Maclean. 1841). A. F. Hudleston. ISnO. Thomas Salkeld. 1851. G. Head Head. 1852. G. H. Oliphant. 1S53. F. B. Atkinson. 1854. T. A. Hoskins. 1855. T. S. Spedding. 1850. Sir R. H. Vane, Bart. 1857. Chas.Featherstonehaugh. 1858. Anthony Benn Steward. Besides the lord -lieutenant and sheriff, the county possesses the following officers: — an under -sheriif. appointed by the sheriff; justices of the peace, all appointed by the crown ; a county treasurer, and a clerk of the peace, generally an attorney, -who is ap- pointed by the custos rotulonim : the county coroners are elected by the freeholders, as the knights of the shii-e were formerly. The revenue of the county is chiefly derived from rates which are struck by the justices of the peace in quarter sessions. The rates, which were formerly col- lected by the high constables — or constables of wards — are directed under 7 and 8 Vic, c. 33, to be collected by the Boards of Guardians, and to be paid by them to the county treasurer. The county expenditm-e is chiefly incurred in maintaining bridges, gaols, poUce, prisoners, lunatic asylums, and the various county officers ; some of whom are paid, although the majority of the officers are honorary, and are discharged gratui- tously. For the year ending April 7th, 1837, the receipts, including a balance of £483 8s. 8d., amounted to £10,343 3s. lOd. From four successive rates amount- ing to 2Jd- in the pound, £0,800 lis. 4d. was raised, £2,541 2s. 6d. was received from the lords of the treasury for the e.xpense of criminal prosecutions, £318 17s. 3d. for the maintenance of prisoners, and £121 13s. for the conveyance of prisoners to depots for convicts. Fines produced £111 5s. lid., and the marking of weights and measures £7 19s. 8d. £115 9s. 5d. was received from the governor of the goal, for mats, &c., and £14 8s. for the subsistence of deserters and revenue prisoners. Eents brought in £190 17s. 3d. The expenditure was as follows : — Gaol of Carlisle, £2,496 15s. 3d. ; conveyance of convicts to depots, £115 5s. 6d. ; court-house, £88 lis. 8d.; the various lock-ups in the county, £881 13s. 8d. ; conveying prisoners to gaol, £109 3s. 5d. ; criminal prosecutions, £1,741 5s. 2d.; bastardy returns, £6 10s. Cd. ; clerk of the peace, £434 os. lOd. ; coroners, £386 2s. Cd. ; county surveyor, £1,596 4s. lid.; repayment for bridges, £156 2s. Od. ; crier of court of quarter ses- sions, £4; baihffs, £40 17s. 6d. ; high constables, £160; treasurer of county, £110; queen's prison, £15; weights and measures, £19 2s.; lunacy, £320 19s. 8d. ; printing and advertising, £10 9s. ; returns of fines to clerk of the peace, £9 12s. ; militia, £27 14s. 6d. ; interest account, £317 17s. 6d. ; intended lunatic asylum, £196 17s. 6d. ; incidental expenses, £56 Os. 4d. ; and balance due county, £]',]49 lis. 7d. COUNTT COKSTABDLAItY. The constabulaiy for the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland was established at the January Quarter Sessions, 1837, under the provisions of the acts 2 and 3, 3 and 4, and 19 and 20, Vict. For police purposes the two counties are united, and are under one chief constable, being the only counties in England that are so. On the election of the cliief constable, eighty-two candidates offered themselves, including officers of the army and navy, civil officers, and private gentlemen. .T. Dunne, Esq., was unanimously elected, and subse- quently appointed by the secretary of state. He at once entered upon his duties. The head quarters of the force wore fixed at Carlisle, where a house was taken for the purpose, in which the business of the constabulary is transacted. Shortly after his appoint- ment, the chief constable visited all the principal and most important points of the two counties, for the purpose of organising the force as speedily as possible. The authorised numbers were soon enrolled, put into working order, and located throughout the two counties upon the basis laid down by the courts of Quarter Sessions. In every instance where it was in tlie power of the chief constable to fix the station of any officer, he was guided as far as possible by the elements of rating and population, so as to endeavour to give to each district the proportion of police it actually paid for, paying at the same time due regard to any other peculiar wants and requirements which were found to exist iu the neighbourhood selected, with the view of placing. the constable iu the position where he might be COUNTY CONSTABULARY. of most use to the jiublic generall}'. With regard to the tlivisional police forces which previously existed, all the officers who, upon examination, were found qualified, were re-appointed. The force has been recently in- spected by the inspector-general of constabulary, under the provisions of the constabulaiy act, who highly approved of its state, and in consequence of his report of its efficiency and discipline, government pays one- fourth of the cost. In order that the arrangements of the chief con- stable may be duly carried out, the two counties have been divided into eight districts, — six in Cumberland and two in Westmoreland, the former of which are co- extensive with the various wards as they existed in 1857. In Westmoreland the East and West wards form one division, and Kendal and Kirby Lonsdale wards the other. Each division comprises several stations or detachments, which are subdivided into beats, so arranged as to connect the different divisions and detachments. The distribution of the force at present, 1858, is as follows : — Cumberland. — AlUrialc- above -Benvent Ward. — One superintendent, one inspector, two sergeants, and twelve constables, at Whitehaven ; one inspector and two constables at Workington ; one sergeant at Bootle ; one sergeant and one constable at Egremont ; with con- stables at Arlecdon, Cleator, Cleator Moor, Dissington, Gosforth, Hill-in-Millom, Harrington, Hensingham, Eavenglass, and Saint Bees. Allcrdale-helou-Derwent Ward. — One superintendent, one sergeant, and one constable at Wigton ; with con- stables at Abbey Holme, Aspatria, AUonby, Caldbeck, Ii-eby, and Kirkbride. Derwent Ward. — One superintendent, one sergeant, and two constables, at Cockermouth ; one inspector and one constable at Keswick ; one inspector and three constables at Maryport;' with constables at Bassenthwaite, Dearbam, Great Clifton, and Grey- southen. Cumberland Ward. — One superintendent, one in- spector, and two constables at Carhsle ; with con- stables at Burgh, Dalston, Kingstown, Stanwix, and Wetheral. Eskdale Ward. — One superintendent, one sergeant, aud one constable at Brampton ; one sergeant and one constable at Longtown ; with constables at Castle Carrock, Enkerry Hill, Smithfield, and Walton. Leath Ward. — One superintendent, one inspector, and three constables at Penrith ; one sergeant and one constable at Alston ; with constables at Armathwaite, I One of these is maintained out of local rates, under local acta of parliament and for special duties. Castle Sowerby, Greystoke, Hcsket, luikoswald, Lang- wathby, and Watermillocks. Westmokeland. — East and West Weirdo. — One superintendent, and one constable at Appleby ; one inspector at Shap; one sergeant at Ivirby Stephen, and constables at Askham, Brough, Morland, Orton, Patterdale, and Temple Sowerby. Kendal and Kirby Lonsdale Wards. — One superin- tendent at Kendal ; one inspector and one constable at Kirby Lonsdale ; with constables at Ambleside, Beu- thwaite Green, Bowness, Burton Holme, Milnthoqie, Old To\\'n and Staveley. The constables are not posted permanently at any station, but moved from one place to another, at the discretion of the chief constable, who, by the act of parliament, has the general disposition and government of the force ; this power the chief constable may also delegate to the superintendents. Police stations, combining accommodation for the constabulary, with lock-up cells for prisoners under temporary confine- ment, have been provided or are in course of erection in different places in the two counties. The proportion of square miles to each poUce officer is about 21, and usually comprise several villages and townships, all of which he is expected to pay attention to, both by night and by day, according to a system of patrolling regulated by the chief constable, tested by conference points. A diary of the duty performed is entered daily by each constable in his journal, copies of which are transmitted weekly to the chief constable's office through the superintendents. The duties of the police in the rural districts differ much from the routine in large towns, being of a more comprehensive nature ; and each constable, not being so immediately under the eye of a superior, is left more to his own discretion, and greater responsibihty attaches to him. Hence the necessity of strict discipline, and the difficulty of always attaining the requisite degree of efficiency in a dispersed force. The county constabu- lary, besides the ordinary duties of parochial and special constables, in serving summonses, the apprehension of offenders, warning coroners aud summoning jurors, conveying prisoners to gaol, and acting as peace officers generally, have undertaken the inspection of weights and measm-es, as also that of low lodging houses, and, in some districts, act as assistant reUeving officers, for casual vagrants, and inspectors of nuisances. They have likewise the charge of lockups, and the custody of prisoners temporarily confined in them. The combina- tion of several of these offices is in pursuance of the recommendations of the parliamentarj'' commissioners, aud effects considerable saving to the county. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCPJPTION OF CUiMBEELAKD. The following tabic shows the number, grade, and pay of the force in 1S5S : — CUMBERLAND COXSTABULAUY. Grade. Pay. Cliicf Constable £-JoO per annum, including allow- ance for travelling expenses, Westmoreland paying one-fourth. Chief Clerk £75 per annum, Westmoreland pay- ing one-fourth. Snperintendent £175 per an. ) out of which they are Superintendents ! £150 do. ]" to find it keep a horse. Inspectors ( 26s. per week. Sergeants j 238. do. Constables— 1st class | 20s. do. Constables— 2nd class ... 18s. do. Constables— 3rd class ! 17s. do. Total, exclusive of one Constable at Maryport, paid for by the Trustees, under act 3rd and 4th Victoria, cap. 68, sec. 19. WESTMORELAND CONSTABULARY. Superintendents . . , Inspectors Sergeant . . Constables— 1 lit <;];i Constables— 2nd CI The following scheme of progressive pay has been prepared by the chief constable and approved of by the justices :— Eank. To increase on present pay for good 1 service after | months. mon^ths. 3 years. 1 7 years. Per week. Per week. £| Per lllan'num. Suporintenaents .. .. Inspectors & Sergeantb Constables .. .. "l" "2" 1 2 12 0 2 £ s. d. 10 8 0 A Merit Class to consist of 20 men at 21s. per week, to be promoted for any extraordinary vigilance, zeal, and energy displaved in the discharge of their duties, and for e-icmplnry good conduct and respectability, each of whom sliould be dis- tinguished by an honorary badge. The total cost of the force is as follows : — Cumber- land, £5,] 10 rs. less £1,277 lis. ild. allowed by government; net cost, £3,83i2 I3s. 3d. AVestmorelaud, total cost £1,521 Is. less £380 5s. 3d. government allowance ; net cost, £1,140 15s. 9d. In accordance with the regulations of the secretary of state each superintendent, inspector, sergeant, and constable, receives annually a complete suit of police clothing with great coat and extra trousers in alternate year, together with 2s. Gd. per month in lieu of boots. A cape and a stock with clasp are supplied when required. In addition to the above each officer is supplied with a truncheon, handcuffs, lantern, journal, and instruction book, together with a small knapsack, to contain a change of linen when employed away from home on special duty. An allowance of Is. per month is also made to those members of the force who u.se lanterns, to supply themselves with oil and cotton. These arti- cles of clothing, &c., are inspected monthly, and each man is held responsible for keeping them in good order. The uniform is dark blue, the superintendents being distinguished by a frock coat with black buttons and embroidery. Under the provisions of the constabulary acts, a superannuation fund has been established, for old and deserving officers. This fund is supported by certain fines or portions of fines, in cases where the police are the informants, and those inflicted on members of the force for misconduct, together with a deduction of 2s- per cent from the pay of each member of the force. PAELI.^MENTAEY EEPHESESTATION. This county has sent members to parliament since the reign of Edward I. The following are the names of the members as far as we have been able to discover from that period to the present time. Edward I. 1290. 'Walter de Blulcasli-e, Hubert de Multon. William de Boyville. Robert de Haverington, Hubert de Blulton. Kobert de 'Witteriug, William de Boyville. Richard de Slajter, Robert de Wittering. Jobn de Wiggeton, Robert de Tilliol. Robert de Joneby, Nicholas de Apresby. John de Lucy, William de Bampton. John de Denton, WilUam de Langrigg. 1-395. 1297. 1300. 1301, 1302. 1300. 1307. 1307. 1308. 1.309. 1310. 1311. 1312. 131:;. 13U. 1315. 1310. 1318. 1323. 1324. 1325. 1320. William le Brun, William le Brun, WiUiam de Mulcn Rol.ert de Lcybiii i \\'l'l.,;M ■ il'. Ar,D II. Alexand< r I i ; i : ,\ Walter de Kirkbride. Robert 1, 1 , - i.tlton. Robert dc Lr\ I i.i,: - , A;_:.auder de Bastenthwaite. John de Boyvillf, Adam da Slielton. Hugh de Louthic, John de Orreton. Richard de Denton, John de Skelton. Robert de Mulcaster, Robert Paynwick. Robert le Brun, John de Orreton. Edw.^kd III. 1327. Robert le Brun, John de Orreton. John de Orreton, Robert Parving. Peter Tilliol, Robert Parving. 1328. Peter Tilliol, John de Skelton. Robert de Eglesfield, Richard de Salkeld. Peter Tilliol, Robert Parving. 1330. Peter TiUiol, John de Orreton. Jobn de Orreton, Thomas Hardegill. 1331. Richard de Denton, Ptobert Parving. 1332. Richard de Denton, John do Haverington. Richard de Denton, Robert Pan-ing. Peter de Tilliol, Richard de Denton. PARLIAMENTARY REPRESENTATION. 1333. Peter de Tilliol, Richard de Denton. Richard de Denton, John de Haverington. 1331. Hugh de Moriceby, Willinm English. Richard de Denton, John de Haverington. 1335. Peter de Tilliol, Richard de Denton. 1337. Peter de Tilliol, Richard de Denton. 1337. Richard de Denton, Hugh de Moriceby. John de Orrelon, Thomas de Skelton. 1338. Thomas de Hardegill, Richard de Bury. John de Bovvilie, Adam de Skelton. 1339. Peter de Tilliol, John de Haverington. John de Orreton, John de Haverington. 1310. Alexander de Bastenthwaite, Robert le Brun. Peter de Tilliol, John de Orreton. John de Orreton, John de Haverington. 1311. Peter de Tilliol, Hugh de Louthre. 1313. Richard de Denton, John de Orreton. 1344. Hugh de Louthre, Henry de Malton. 1.347. Peter de Tilliol, John de OiTeton. 1318. John de Orreton, Thomas de Hardegill. 1349. Peter de Tilliol, John de Orreton. 1350. Richai-d de Denton, John de Orreton. 1352. Richard de Denton, Robert de Tilliol. Henry de Malton. 1353. Richard de Denton. 1354. Thomas de Rokeby, Thomas de Hardegill. 1355. Richard de Denton, John de Orreton. 1357. John de Orreton, Robert de Tilliol. Robert de Tilliol, Adam Parving. 1360. John de Orreton, Christopher de Moriceby. Henry de Malton, Robert de Tilliol. 1362. Robert Tilliol, William EngUsh. 1363. William English, Christopher Moricebv. 1364. Richard de Tilliol, WiUiam English. 13B5. Christopher Moriceby, William Stapilton. 1368. Joseph de Pvkering, John de Demon. 1369. William English, Richard Mowbray. 1371. Robert Curwenne, William de Stapilton. Gilbert de Curwenne. 1372. Robert Mowbray, John de Denton. 1373. Gilbert de Curwen, Adam Parving. Gilbert de Curwen, John de Camberton. 1376. Gilbert de Curwen, WilliaTn Stapilton. 1377. John de Denton, Amand Monceaux. RiCHAED II. 1377. Robert Mowbray, Richard del Sandes. 1378. Peter de TiUiol," Clement de Skelton. John de Derwentwater, Thomas de 'nTiitrigg. 1379. Richard de Mowbray, William de Curwen. 1380. Peter de Tilliol, William de Hutton. 1381. Gilbert de Curwen, John de Denton. Richard de Snlkeld, John de la More. 1382. Clement de Skelton, Thomas Bowet. Clement de Skelton, Thomas de Dalston. 1383. Thomas Blenkinsop, Amand Monceaux. John de Kirkby, John de Brougham. 1384. Thomas de Lamplough, John de Ireby. 1385. Peter de Tilliol, Richard de Beaulieu. 1386. Amand de IMonceaux, John de Thirlwall. 1387. John de Derwentwater, John de Ireby. 1388. Robert de Mulcastre, Amand de Monceaux. 1389. William de Threlkeld, Amand Monceaux. 1390. William Stapilton, Thomas del Sandes. 1391. Peter de Tilliol, John de Louthre. 1392. Geoffrey Tilliol, John de Louthre. 1393. Clement de Skelton, Robert de Louthre. 1394. William Stapilton, Thomas del Sandes. 1396. John de Ireby, Clement de Skelton. 1397. Peter Tilliol, William de Osmunderlowe. Hekry IV. 1399. William de Leigh, RoUand Vaux. 1400. Robert de Louthre, William de Stapilton. 1101. William de Leigh, John de Skelton. 1103. Robert de Loullire, William de Louthre. 1101. John de la More, William de Beaulieu. 1406. Robert de Louthre, John de Skelton. 1107. William de Stapilton, William de la More. Henry V. 1113. Peter Tilliol, William de Beaulieu. 1414. Robert Louthre, William de Leigh. Christopher de Curwen, John de Eglesfield. 1117. Peter Tilliol, Robert de Louthre. 1418. Peter Tilliol, Thomas de la More. 1419. Peter 'lilliol, Nicholas Randolf. Heney VI. 1422. Peter Tilliol, John Skelton. 1423. Christopher Curwen, William de Leigh. 1124. Peter Tilliol, Christopher Curwen. 1125. Peter TiUiol, Hugh de Louthre. 1427. Christopher Curwen, Nicholas Radcliffe. 1128. Thomas Parr, Thomas de la More. 1129. Thomas Parr, Thomas de la More. 1430. Christopher Curwen, Hugh de Louthre. 1434. Thomas Curwen, William Dykes. 1436. William Stapilton, John Brougham. 1441. Ra. de Dacre, Thomas Curwen. 1446. John Pennington, William Martindale. 1118. Thomas Cmrwen, Hugh Lowther. 1419. John Skelton, Richard Bellingham. 1150. Thomas de la IMore, Thomas Crackentliorpe. 1154. Thomas Colt, Thomas de la More. 1439. Thomas Curwen, William Leigh. Edward IV. 1467. John Hnddleston, Richard Salkeld. 1472. John Parr, Richard Salkeld. 1477. William PaiT, James Moresby. Edw.ied VI. 1547. Thomas Wharton, Knt.; Richard Musgrave. 1552. Richard Musgrave, Henry Curwen. Masy. 1553. Thomas Wharton, Knt.; Thomas Dacre, jun., Knt. 1554. John Leigh, Robert Penruddock. Robert Whitley, Richard Minshoo. 1554. Thomas Dacre, Robert Penruddock. 1555. Thomas Threlkeld, Henry Methuen. 1556. Leonard Dacre, John Dalston. Elizabeth. 1558. Leonard Dacre, Henry Curwen. 1562. Leonard Dacre, Henry Curwen. 1570. Henry Percy, Knt.; Simon Musgrave, Knt. 1571. Simon Musgrave, Knt.; Edward Scroope. 1584. Thomas Scroope, Thomas Bowes. 1585. Robert Bowes, Henry Leigh. 1588. Thomas Scroope, Knt. ; Robert Bowes. 1592. Nicholas Curwen, Wilfrid Lawson. 1596. John Pennington, Knt.; Christopher Pickering, Knt. 1000. William Huddleston, Gerard Lowther. James I. 1603. Wilfrid Lawson, Edward Musgrave. 1614. Wilfrid Lawson {?), George Dalston, Knt. 1620. George Dalston, Knt. ; Henry Cui-wen, Knt. 1623. George Dalston, Knt.; Ferdinand Huddleston. Charles I. 1625. George Dalston, Knt. ; Patrick Curwen. 1625. George Dalston, Knt.; Patrick Curwen. 1627. George Dalston, Knt.; Patrick Curwen. 1639. George Dalston, Knt.; Patrick Curwen. 1610. George Dalston, Knt.; Patrick Curwen. William Ermyn, Richard Tolson. CojiaONWEALTH. 1653. Robert Fenwick. 1654. Charles Howard, William Briscoe. 1055. Charles Howard, William Briscoe. 1657. Charles Howard, William Briscoe. 1059. Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Col. WilUam Briscoe. 1 The rolls of Parliament for this period are not available. 74 CKOGEArHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. 1695. 1697. 1701. 1703. 1705. 1707. 1714. 1741. 1747. 1754. CnAKLES II. 1660. Charles, Lord Howard; Wilfrid Lawson. 1661. Patrick Curwen, Bart. ; George Fletclier, Bart. John Lowther, Richard Lamplu^h. 1679. Jolin Lowther, Bart. ; Richard Lamplugh. Edward, Lord Morpeth ; ,Tohn Lowther, Bart. 1680. George Fletcher, Ban.; John Lowther, Bart. James II. 1885. Richard, Viscount Prestou ; John Lowther, Bart. Wn,LiAM AND Mahy. 1689. George Fletcher, Bart. ; John Lowther, Bart. 1C90. George Fletcher, Bart. ; John Lowther, Bart. William III. George Fletcher, Bart.; John Lowther, Bart. George Fletcher, Bart. ; John I.owther, Bart. Edward Hassel, Knt. ; George Fletcher. Anne. Richard Mnsgrave, Gilfrid Lawson. George Fletcher, Richard Musgrave. James Lowther, Gilfrid Lawson. James Lowther, Gilfrid Lawson. Geokge I. James Lowther, Gilfrid Lawson. Christopher Musgrave, Bart. ; Gilfrid Lawson. George II. James Lowther, Bart.; Gilfrid Lawson. James Lowther, Bart.; Joseph Pennington, Bart. James Lowther, Bart.; Joseph Pennington, Bart. James Lowther, Bart. ; John Pennington, Bart. James Lowther, Bart. ; John Pennington, Bart. William Lowther, Bart., on Sir James' deatli. William Fleming, Bart., on Sir William Lowther's death. Geoege III. James Lowther, Bart. ; John Pennington, Bart. W'ilfrid Lawson, Bart., on Sir James making his election for Westmoreland. Sir James Lowther re-elected on Sir Wilfrid's death. Henry Curwen, Henry Fletcher. Sir James Lowther, Bart. ; Henry Fletcher. Sir James Lowther, Bart. ; Henry Fletcher. Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. ; William Lowther. Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. ; Humphrey Senhouse. Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. ; John Lowther. Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. ; John Lowther. John Lowther, Viscount Morpeth. John Lowther, "Viscount Morpeth. 1818. John Lowther, Viscount Morpeth. George IV. 1820. Sir John Lowther, Bart.; J. G. Curwen. 1826. Sir John Lowther, Bart. ; J. C. Curwen (died 1829); Sir J. R. G. Graham, Bart. William IV. 183(1. Sir John Lowther, Bart. ; Sir J. R. G. Graham, Bart. 1831. Sii- J. R. G. Graham, Bart. ; Wilham Blamiie. Two additional representatives were given to Cum- berland l)j' the Reform Act of 18.32, when the countj- was formed into two divisions. The eastern division comprises Cumberland, Eskdale, and Loath ward.s, and the western the two AUerdales, as they e.tisted previous to the change made in 1833. The city of Carlisle is the place of election for the eastern division, and the polling places are Wigton, Alston, Brampton, Long- town, Heskct Newmarket, Kirkoswald, Dalston, and Penrith. The place of election for the western division is Cockermouth, at which, and at Bootle, Aspatria, Egremont, and Keswick, are polling places. The 3784. 1790. 1796. 1802. 1806. 1812. number of electors is, — eastern division, 5,352 ; western division, 4,141. The following have represented the county since the Reform Act : — EASTERN DIVISION. 1832-35. Rt. Hon. Sir J. R. G. Graham, Bart.; Wm. Blamire. 1835-37. Rt. Hon. Sir J. R. G. Graham, Bart. ; Wm. Blamire. (Mr. Blamire accepted the Chilturn Hundreds in Septemher, 1836, when William James was elected.) WESTi;n\ Dn-isioN. 1832-35. Edward Stanley, Viscount Lowther. (The latter accepted the Chiltem Hundreds in Maixh, 1833, when Samuel Irton was elected.) 1835-37. Edward Stanley, Samuel Irton. Victoria. eastern division. 1837-41. William James, F. Aglionby (died July, 1840), Hon. C. W. G. Howard. 1841-47. Hon. C. W. G. Howard, William James. 1847-52. Hon. C. W. G. Howard, William Marshall. 1852-56. Hon. C. W. G. Howard, WiUiam Marshall. 1857. Hon. C. W. G. Howard, WilUam Marshall. WESTERN DIVISION. 1837-4]. Edward Stanley, Samuel Irton. lHil-47. Edward Stanley, Samuel Irton. 1847-52. Edward Stanley, Henry Lowther. 1H52-5G. Henry Lowther, Samuel Irton. 1857. Henry Lowther, General Wjndham. TE.\DE, COMMEKCE, ETC. First in importance, as in utility, the working of coal and the coal trade claim precedence in a notice of the mercantile affairs of the county of Cumberland. "In a country like England," says Ansted, " deprived of any large quantity of wood by the advance of civilisation, where should we obtain means for enduring the inclemency of the weather, or enjoying any comforts at our homes, if it were not for large supplies of coal'? But we must look further. Where would be our manu- factures? where would be oiur iron, — tlie staple of all manufactures, — if there were not abundant and cheap supplies of valuable fuel where the ores of these metals occur '? Without coal could this country have advanced beyond its condition many centuries ago ? Could there have been education ? Could there have been printed books available for the multitude ? Could there have been food and raiment for ourselves ? Or could science have advanced ? Must not England have remained in the background, its inhabitants unable to exercise that intellectual activity which they have exerted iu placing their country in advance of the whole ■world ? Without coal there would have been no extensive use of steam, even if the vast power of that agent had been dis- covered. Without steam and iron, where should we now be in the advance of civilisation over the world ? Coal is indeed the indispensable food of all industry. It is a primary material, by whose aid we engender force, and obtain power sufficient for any purpose that has yet been imagined." TRADE, COMMERCE, ETC. The coal-bearing strata of Cumberland wiU be found described at page 31. Coal is worked to a great extent at Whitehaven, Workington, and in the vicinity of IMaryport, whence it is exported in considerable quan- tities. It is also found in the eastern part of the county, whence the chief supply for Carlisle, Brampton, Penrith, and the neighbouring country is obtained. The following is a list of the collieries of the county in 1856, with their situation and owners' names : — Name of Collierj". Situation. Onuers. Aspatria Aspatria John Hanis. Bolton Wigton Addison & Co. Broughton Moor Marypoit Fletcher, Ross, & Co. Camerton Workington Thombury cS: Co. Cleator Moor Whitehaven Barker & Co. Clifton Workington . . I. and W. Fletcher. Croglin Gen. Wyndham. Crossbarrow and another.. Workington.. .. Messrs Fletcher. Crossbarrow Workington . . — Golighdey. Maryport. . .... W. Mulcaster & Co. Addison & Co. Gen. Wyndham. Messrs. Walker. Steel & Co. Harris & Son. WUson & Son. Mulcaster & Co. John Hanis & Son. Steel & Co. J. Curweu. — Drewrj. Earl of Lonsdale. Messrs. Wilson & Co. Nicholson & Co. Orossby Crummock New Colliery Dean Moor Dearham Dovenby Ellenborough Flimby Flimby Grey Souihen Oilerux Harrington Harrington Priest Croft Wigton . . Keay Pit Whitehaven Seaton Maryport. . Seaton Maryport. . Threapthwaite Whitehaven . . Cleator Company. Weary Hall Wigton Addison & Co. '" ■ ' " "■ ■ Whitehaven .. Earl of Lonsdale. Workington . . J. Curwen. Workington . . Maryport . . These 28 collieries produced, in 1856, 913,8911 tons of coal, which were disposed of as foUow : — 925,435 tons were shipped at Maryport, 118,239 at Workington, 10,926 at Harrington, and 211,347i at Whitehaven, making a total shipped of 56o,947i tons. The coal sent by railway for land sale amounted to 64,310 tons, 64,6y8 tons were used at iron-furnaces, 3,500 for col- liery and iron-mine consumption, and 215,500 for localj consumption in the principal towns and manufactories, making a grand total of 913, 891^ tons as above. The quantity of coal, coke, and anthracite shipped at the ports of the county, and sent coastways to the other ports of the United Kingdom, in 1836, was as follows, in tons: — Whitehaven, coals, 207,947; anthracite, 775. Workington, coals, 129,275 ; coke, 5 ; anthra- cite, 130. Maryport, coals, 291,068; coke, 2,877; anthracite, 1,521. The quantity of coal exported to foreign countries during the same year was — White- haven, 3,943 tons; Workington, 1,514 tons; and Maryport, 4,075 tons!' J The total coal produce of the United Kingdom in 1856, was 68,645,450 tons, showing an increase of 2,193,380 tons over the coal produce of the pravious year; and, at the average price of coal at llie pit's mouth, gives a money value equal to ^16,663,862. Alston is the principal seat of the lead mines, which are almost exclusively the property of Greenwich Hos- pital, having been granted to that institution by Act of ParUament, on the attainder of the unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, in 1716. We subjoin a list of the various lead-mines of the county, with their produce of lead-ore, lead, and silver, in 1856. Kames of Mines. Alston Mooe. Leased toTarious parties, but be- onging to Green- wich Hospital. Long Cleugb iRampgiU ^Capel Cleugh iBrowngill .Cars and Hanging Shaw Scalebum Middle Cleugh Bentyfield, S. Vein JSmall Cleugh Tyne Bottom Guddamgill Cowper Dyke Heads . . . 1 JFletcheras VPriorsdale Bntyfld., E. End, Sun Vn, Black Syko BlagiU Brigal Bum Brownley Hill Carrs West of Kent .... ClargiUBum Clargill Head Cow Gap Crag Green, North Vein CrosBgiU Head Dowpot Syke Douke Bum, East End.. Douke Bum, West End. . Farnbfiry Foreshield GallygiUSyke Gallygill Bents Grassfleld GuttergUl, East End. . . . Holyfield Hudgill Burn Lee House Well Low Birchy Bank Middle Syke MoralleFell NattrasE, Middle Vein . . Nattrass, North Vein . . Nentsbury, North Vein.. Nentsbury Pasture Park Grove Peat Stack Hill Rodderap Fell Slote Thomgill Slit ThoragiU. East End Thorngill. West End.... WellgiU. Cross Vein..,. Windy Brow ^Sundi , Calvert f Clargill Head . Dosey East Crossfell . J Lady Vein ... '] Patter Syke , . South Crossfell Stow Craig ... Tees Side and Metal Band ^ Smittergill Head / RoughtengtU . . . { Driggitt Goldscope 1 Yewthwaite -; Force Crag [ Kennyside Lcad-ore.l Lead 7.311 8 .i,321 Silver and copper are found in some of the mines in le same veins as the lead-ore: the table which we GEOGEAPniCAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBEELAND. have just given from the Mining Records shows the quantity of silver produced. The quantity of copper sold by private contract, of which returns have been obtained from the mines, was as follows : — Coniston mine, 3,059 tons, 8 cwts., 2 qrs., valued at £27,861 14s. 7d. ; Greenbourne mine, 20i tons; Pioughton Gill, 45 tons, 1 cwt. ; Driggith, 8 tons ; Alston Moor, 13 cwt., 2 qrs. In no part of the world has the production of iron advanced with fnore rapid steps than in the north of England, nor is there perhaps a limited district where the ores and their resulting irons are more varied in character. The ores of iron raised in the northern counties belong, geologically speaking, to three different formations, viz., the Carboniferous Limestooe, the Coal Pleasures, and the Lias, the former of which alone demands our attention. The principal mass of the Carboniferous or Mountain Limestone of the iron-pro- ducing district under consideration, emerges from be- neath the Coal Measures of Durham and Northum- berland on the east, and is bounded by a steep declivity overlooking the vale of Eden on the west. It reaches a culminating point in the long mountain ridge of Cross Fell, and forms the vast tract of moorland which near Alston extends for some twenty-five miles in width, and in the high desolate region adjoining the Scottish border stretches almost from sea to sea. After an interval of some miles towards the west, the same formation rises again from beneath the New Red Sand- stone of Penrith, and the Coal Measures of Workington and Whitehaven, and lapping as a narrow belt round the older slaty rocks of the Lake district, almost entirely encircles this the most beautiful region of England. The structure of the central high land first mentioned, in which are situated the towns of Alston, He.xham, and Haltwhistle, differs materially from the contemporaneous formation which occurs far- ther south in England and Wales, and which consists principally of uninterru]>ted beds of limestone to a vast thickness. In the north the actual limestone plays but a subordinate part, and alternates with strata of gritstone and shale, locally termed " hazle " and " plate." Certain ores of iron are interstratified with these beds ; nodules of clay ironstone, the argillaceous carbonate, are met with in some of the bands of shale, the mode of aggregation being analogous to that of the similar ores of the Coal Measures. At Ilareshaw, near Bellingham, towards the source of the North Tyne, four furnaces were erected some years ago, to smelt the clay ironstones which were obtained from the series of " sills " or beds intervening between the so-called "great limestone" of the Alston district, and the " second " or " little limestone " which lies about si.xty feet above it. They produced excellent iron, but the expensive cartage of the ore, and the absence of rail- way or canal communication, were fatal for the time to the success of the establishment. Masses of brown iron-ore (the hydrous sesquioxide of iron) appear in some instances to form regular layers, although their presence is probably in close relation to the veins of metallic minerals which in great numbers intersect the rocks in and around Alston Moor. It is not until farther and systematic workings shall have been followed out, that the tme nature and extent of these apparent strata can be determined. The majority of the mineral veins or lodes of the Alston district, celebrated for their productiveness of lead-ore, range nearly from east to west, intersecting the whole of the above-mentioned beds, but yielding their riches far more abundantly in certain strata than in others. Some of these lead veins, in a part of their course, are charged with brown irou-.oro instead of the usual veinstone of fluor spar and quartz and its con- comitant lead- ore. Thus the rich lode of Roderup Fell where it crosses the valley of the Tyne, above Alston, and is known as the Craig Green or Bracken Syke vein, is seen in the so-called " scar " limestone, as a vein of brown iron-ore from 16 to 20 feet in width. Hitherto, however, from the remote position of the district, these repositories of an ore so well calculated to produce a good quality of iron have been veiy little Since the late extension of a branch railway to the town of Alston, certain of the lodes, apparently pro- ducing nothing but this kind of ore, have been exten- sively wrought. Thus the Manor House vein has been opened very near the railway station, for the Shotley Bridge Company, and hundreds of tons have been raised from a very small area at the extremely low cost of Is. 7d. per ton.* The vein is about 14 feet wide striking east and west, with a northerly dip, and throw- ing down the measures on its north wall about 12 feet. Its productiveness is increased by tongues or " flats " which penetrate to the distance of a few feet between the layers of the scar limestone which it here inter- sects. The hematite (red iron-ore, sesquioxide of iron) of Whitehaven, occurs in the carboniferous limestone near the outcrop or surface edge of the slaty rocks upon * It is worthy of note, tbnt here, as in so many otlier localities, our forefathers had availed themselves of the occiirrfiice of a rich ore to work it for their small charcoal furnaces ; on the late opening of these works, remains of ancient galleries and a horse shoe were found, although the existence of old workings was not betrayed by any surface appearances. TRADE, COMMEECE, ETC. 77 which that fonnation rests. The greater part of the excavations from which it is extracted are subterraneous, and so extensive is often the mass of iron-ore iu which the workings are earned, that it is difficult in such situations to obtain a clear idea of the nature of this important deposit. But at a place called Todholcs, near Cleator, an open work has for some time been iu operation, which throws gi-eat light on the subject. A slight anticlinal axis has brought the iron-ore to -within a small distance of the surface; and the superficial covering of fifteen to twenty feet in thickness, wliich contains very numerous angular fragments of gray limestone in its lower portion, being removed, the red iron-ore is worked as a quarry. The floor of the deposit is a white and red mottled shale, almost of the nature of a fire-clay, and is evidently a bed belonging to the limestone series ; bore-holes have been sunk iu it to a depth of thirty or forty feet without meeting with any other material. Tiie surface of this shale is very uneven on a large scale, although the actual planes are smooth, and frequent sudden depressions or ridges throw it up or down for a few feet, disturbances which appear to be regularly followed by the superimposed hematite. Between the shale and the iron-ore there lies, very generally, a baud of conglomerate, from three to eight inches thick, of small pebbles of white quartz. The magnificent bed of hematite which then follows, varies from fifteen to upwards of 30 feet in thickness, and is for the most part a dense mass of red ore sub- divided by iiTegular and jiearly vertical joints. Small cavities rarely occur, adjacent to which the ore assumes those botryoidal forms commonly termed " kidney ore,"' so well known in miueralogical cabinets, and which exhibit this mineral in a high state of purity. In such parts of the mass rock crystals occur, and calcareous spar and arragonite appear to be the substances which were last crystallised in the hollows. With a general parallelism to the floor of the deposit, two, and some- times three bands of greenish black shale, from one to eight inches thick, are distinctly interstratified with the iron-ore ; and the presence of these partings, with the overlying roof of impure limestone which makes its appearance on the dip, leaves on the mind almost a conviction that the hematite occurs as a true bed. And yet it is difiicult to remain satisfied with the view of the regular contemporaneity of the ore with the Hmestone strata. In other mines of the district the presence of a definite and nearly vertical boundary along one side of the workings is more nearly akin to the ijhenomena of a vein, and it is very possible that a systematic examination of the whole group of localities might lead to the assigning of a later date for the intro- duction of the iron-ore into chasms and hollows which had been formed in the already consolidated beds, and thus bring the nature of the repositories of Whitehaven into coincidence with the more clearly-marked ores of Ulverstone. There seems occasionally to be a second bed, in a somewhat higher position, which rests upon a limestone floor ; but hitherto so small an area has supplied the requirements of a single mine that the physical struc- ture of the district is veiy imperfectly understood, both as regards the extent of these unrivalled deposits and their exact position among the members of the moun- tain limestone. A shaft which has recently been sunk at High House near Cleator, through a greater depth of cover than usual, yields the following section : — Ft. in. Dark Sbale 156 0 Coarse Grit, called " Millstone " Grit . 36 0 Shales 30 0 " Whii-lstone " 32 0 Shales 5i 0 Red limestone 7 0 Shale 18 Hematite pierced to depth of . . 32 0 When the ore is worked as a mine, galleries are driven out from the shaft fourteen or fifteen feet in height, forming " rooms " with substantial pillars left between them ; and after a certain area has thus been prepared, the pillars are " robbed," the roof falls, and the surface of the land commonly gives way. The depressions which ensue and often become pools of water, with the crushing action on the neighboming workings, render the last stages of the operation some- what insecure, and necessitate special caution. A small proportion only of the ores of the White- haven district is smelted on the spot. The coal of the neighbouring field is ill suited for smelting purposes ; and the admirable coke of the Newcastle district has to bear so expensive a carriage, that but one ironwork, that of the Whitehaven Hematite Iron Company, has, for some time past, been in action. This establish- ment, situated near Cleator, is placed close upon the edge of the coalfield, and possesses three blast fur- naces, smelting no other ore than that of the district, which the company purchases from its neighbours. Hot blast is employed, and a certain quantity of shale has to be added to the usual materials, in order to supply in conjunction with hmestone the requisites for a slag. The quantity of iron-ore produced in the county during 1S5G, was 267,256 tons, of which 259,167 rs CxEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. tons were hematite from the Whitehaven district ; and 8,089 hematite and hydrated oxide from jMston Moor. Of the 239,167 tons raised in the neighbourliood of Whitehaven, 152,873 were shipped at Whitehaven, 65,675 were sent away by rail, and 39,617 tons used at the ironworks in the district. The destinations of the ore were as follow: — Wales, 124,630 tons; Staf- fordshire. 20,768 tons; Scotland, 15,865 tons; New- castle, Middlesbro', itc.,- 51,470 tons; and to France, 817 tons. The following are the hematite iron mines near Whitehaven, with their proprietors: — Agnes Mines Berks Mine Bigrigg Moor Bigrigg . Ditto . . . . Cleator Moor . Cleator (sundry mines) . Crowgarth Goosegreen . Hesket Pit High House Mine Knockmurton Cop Langhorne . . Low Ling . Parkside Todholes . Woodend Yatehouse Tulk and Ley. James Henry Attwood and Son. S. and J. Lindow. Anthony Hill. Wilsons, Peile, & Co. Anthony Hill. WTiitehaven Hematite Iron Compy. Anthony Hill. Fisher, Dees, Fletcher, & Musgrove D. and J. H. Robinson, Richard Bar- ker, and Thornton. S. W. Smith and Company. Thomas Carmichael. Earl of Lonsdale & Gen. Wyndham. Fisher, Dees, Fletcher, & Musgrove .Tohn Stirling. Henry Attwood and Son. Tulk and Ley. The following were the blast furnaces in 1856 : — Names of Works. Oimers. Furnaces FiirMcoa built. m blast. Cleator Moor OTiitehaven Hematite Iron Co. 1 3 Duddon . Harrison, Ainslie, and Co. 1 0 Seatoul S. W. Smith and Co. 2 0 Harrington C. H. Plevins. 1 o The total produce of pig-iron from the hematite ore furnaces of Lancashire and Cumberland, was 25,530 tons. Millom produced 2,268 tons of iron pyrites, which sold for £1,100, and contained 47 per cent of sulphur. From the Alston Moor mines 443 tons, 10 cwts. of barytes (carbonate) were obtained ; and 378 tons, 5 cwts. of zinc (blende and calamine), valued at £'1,405 9s. The plumbago of Borrowdale has long been famous for its fine quality. It is found in detached pieces called according to the size sops or bellies, so that the supply is very irregular, the miners being frequently engaged for a long period in seeking for the graphyte. Some years since a very large quantity of plumbago • Works not completed. was obtained from Borrowdale ; this has been stored by the proprietors, and sold in small parcels from time to time. The mine has not been worked for several years ; it was examined by some skilled miners since the cessation of the work, and their opinions were not such as would lead us to believe that any large quantity of black-lead would be discovered by any extension of the workings. Cobalt has been found in small quantities at New- lands, and antimony at Bassenthwaite. Lapis Calami- nans, small quantities of Maiiganese, Galena, and spar of various kinds and different colours and forms are found in several places. Slate of a pale blue colour, and of the finest quality, is abundant in the county, particularly in the neighbourhood of Ulleswater and Keswick. Limestone is very abundant in many parts of Cumberland ; and in some places it is burnt in large quantities for exportation, particularly to the west of Scotland. The quantity produced at Alston, in 1856, was 2,411 tons, 11 cwts. The principal ports of Cumberland are Whitehaven, Worldugton, Maryport, and Harrington. Skinbumess appears to have been at one time a haven of some importance, and was the rendezvous of the English fleet which Edward III. employed against* Scotland. SiUoth, on the bay of the same name, is a rising port, which at present engages a large amount of public attention, and for which a prosperous future is con- fidently anticipated. Cumberland appears to have possessed manufactures from a very early period, for we learn from a charter of William de Fortibus that there were fulling mills at Cockermouth and Dearham in the reign of Henry III. A manufactory of fustian was established at Carlisle m 1660, and one of broad cloth at Cockermouth about the same period. About thirty years afterwards we find iron-forges at Millom, and fulling-mills at Bassen- thwaite, where woollen cloths were dressed called Skid- daw greys. From the beginning of the 18th century the manufactures of the county have gone on increasing, and now afford employment to several thousands of the population. The cotton trade is located principally at Carlisle ; the manufacture of coarse linen, sail- cloth, &c., at Whitehaven and other places ; paper on the rivers ; woollens at Keswick ; earthenware, iron, copperas, &c., in different localities, and at White- haven, JIaryport, and Workington, are several ship- building yards, where every kind of manufactory connected with shipping is carried on. There were formerly considerable saltworks at Bransted, near Whitehaven, Netherhnll, and Workington, but they have long been discontinued. Cumberland produces a great variety of plants, many of which, whose habitat is among the mountains, are of rare occurrence in other parts of the kingdom. A list of them is annexed : — Acer campestri, Mireliouse 'Woocls. Adonis autumnalis, near Bromfield. Agrimonia Eupatoria, Lamplugh churchyard. A. Eupatoria, var. odorata, Lorton. Agrostis vulgaris, var. pumila, common on high elevations. Alchemilla alpina, I'orrowdale House, Helvellyn, Scawfoll, Skiddaw, Screes. jlKsma Jiafans, Derweatwater. A. p'.antago, Keswick. A.ra- nunculoides, Eskmeals. Allium arcnarium, hanks of the Derwent. A. ursinum, Salter Hall. A. vineale, Bearpot, near Workington. Allosunis crispus,^Xa.sti3a\e, Ponsonby, Lamplugh: everywhere in the Lake district. Anagallis ccrulea, Hensingham toUhar. A. tcnclla, Seroggs, Loughrigg, near the Inn, Patterdale. Anchusa sempervirens, Gosforth, Sandwith. Andromeda polifulia, Moss near Bromfield, Moresby, Drum- hurgh. Anthemii vmritima. Coulderton. Anthriscus vulgaris, Workington Bridge. Anthyllis vulneraria, Maryport railway. ' Apargia autumnalis, Ennerdale. Apium graveolens, Workington Mai'sh. Aquilegia vulgaris, shore of Bassenthwaite Lake, Dovenby. Arahis hispida, on the shores. A. hirsuta, Shouldthwaite, Moota. A. petrea, Screes. A. striata, Lamplugh Hall, Pardshaw HaU. Arhutus uva-ursi, Grassmoor, Crummock, Beetle Fell, Bracken- thwaite. Arenaria pcploides, Seaton, Flimby. A. serpyllifolia, Pard- shaw Hall, Cockerraouth. A.verna, Helvellyn. Armeria maritime, Helvellyn. Arum maculatum. Wood Hall, Branlhwaite. Arundo arenaria. Sea-shore, Coulderton. A. calamagrostis, Elver Derwent. A. phragmites, Piiver Derwent. Asarum Europmum, near Keswick. Asperula odorata, Lowdore Fall. Aspidijim angulare, Whicham. A. dilatatum, Keswick. A. lo- batum, Flimby, Walla Crag, Caldbeck. A. oreopteris, Pon- sonby Fell, Ulpha. A. spinulosum, Keswick, &c. Asplenium Adiantum nigrum, common. A. altemi folium, said to be found in the Lake District. A. marinum, rocks near Whitehaven, St. Bees Heads. A. rutumuraria, common. A. sepientrionale, Borrowdale, Sci-ees, near Lorton. A. Trichomanes, Carleton, &c. A. viride, Castlerigg Fell, river Irthing, edge of Scout ScaiT, ,\shness, Ghyll, Cross Fell. Aster tripoHum, Eskholme, Holborn Hill. Athyrium ovatum, Roth., near Keswick. Atriplex laciniata, St. Bees and Harrington shores. A. patula, Workington north shore. AtTopa Belladonna, once plentiful round Egremont Castle, but now only retained in a few gardens there. Ballota nigra, Workington. Betula alba, var. pendulosu. round Dcnventwater. Bidcns cernua, Braithwaite, Cloffocks. B. tripartica, Keswick Cass, Bootle. Bleclmum horeale, common. Botrijchium Lunaria, not rare on dry pastures. Brassica Monensis, Flimby and St. Bees shore. Cakile maritima, Seaton shore. Callitriche pedunculata, Ennerdale. C. verna, Whinlatter. CalUrapalustris,var. radicans, margins of lakes. Camelina sativa, Workington Mill Field. Campanula glomerata, foot of Ulleswater, Hardendale. C. lalifulice, common in hedges. Cardamine amara, Moorside Woods, Bearpot. C. hirsuta, ele- vated situations on WhilUmoor. C. pratensis, common, sometimes double. Carduus acanthoses, Carlisle Castle. Carex ampullacea, Cocker side. C. arenaria, Harrington shore. C. dioica, plentiful at Wythburn Head, Orgill. C. extensa, Marron side. C./i'/i/brmis, Workington. C. /ara. Hard- knot. C. limosa, var. irrigua, Gilsland. C. pallescens, Sellafield. C. pulicaria, Hunday. C. rigida, Helvel- lyn, Skiddaw, Scawfell. C. riparia, Stubbin Mire. C. stricta, Bullgill Bridge. C. vesiciria, Braithwaite. C. vulpina, Yeorton Hall. Carlina vulgaris, Ennerdale. Catabrosa acquatica, Coulderton shore — scarce— perhaps extinct. Centaurea Scabiosa, Eaglesfield. Cerastium Alpinum, rocks above Eed Tarn, Helvellyn. C. tetrandum, CocTiermouth. Chara aspersa, H arras Moor. ■ C. flexilis, Whillimoor. Chelidonium majus, Kirkland, St. Bees. Chieranthus fructiculosus, walls of Scaleby Castle. Chcerophyllmn sijlvestre, Gillfoot and Whicham. Chrysosptenium alternifolium, Portinscale Bridge. C. oppositi- folium, common in wet woods. Cicuta virosa, Keswick, Walton, Irthington. Circma alpina, margins of Ulleswater and Derwent Lakes, Ashness Ghyll, Barrowside. C. lutetiana, Keswick. Cladium mariscus, Cunswick Tai-n. C I inopodium vulgare, Mockerin, PapcasUe. Cnicus acaulis, Barrowside, Hardknot. C. heterophyllus, Armboth, AVatendlath. Cnidium Silaus, Seaton, Schoose Farm. Cochlearia anglica, Workington shore. C. grcenlandica, var, alpina, rilis on Helvellyn. C. officinalis, Coulderton Shore, Fleswick Bay. Comarum pulustre, common in meadow ditches. Convolvulus arvensis, Fitz toll-bar. C. soldanella, on the shore at PartoD, Maryport, Eavenglass, Coulderton, and Har- rington. Corydalis solida. Vale of Newlands. Cotyledon umbilicus, Ehenside, Gosforth. Crambe maritima, near St. Bees, below Bavenglass and Bootle, Coulderton shore. Crepis tectorum, Woodcock Nook, near Egremont. Crithmum marltimum, St. Bees rocks. Cynoglossum officinale, FUmby. Cystopteris Bangmtata, Helvellyn. C. dentata, Naddle. C. fragilis, Whinlatter. Cystea dentata, Naddale, Braithwaite, WhiUimoor. C. fragilis, St. Bees Moor. Dancus carota, Eavenglass. Drosera anglica, Helvellyn. D. longifolia, Ullock Moss, near Gilpin Bridge, Borrowdale. D. rotundifolia, common in hogs. Eteocharis acicularis, Egremont. E. fluitans, Cogra Moss, in Lamplugh. E. caspifosiw, Murton Moss. E.multicaulli, Ennerdale Lake. E. palustris, Loweswater Lake. jB. pauciflorus, Murton Moss. 80 GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF CUMBERLAND. Empeirum nigrum. Cross Fell, SkidJaw, moors and boga. Epilobium alpinum, Kesn-ick and Gowbarrow Park. E. alsini- folium, Whinlatter. E. hirsutum, river Eden and its tributaries. Epipaclis latifolia, Dean Scales, Bridge Foot, CockermouUi Koad. E. palmtris, near Cunswick Tarn. E(juisctum arvcnse, common. E.Jluviatile, Flimby, Salter Hnll, Parton rocks. E. pnhistre. Cold Fell. E. sylvaticum, Watendlath, &c. E. varicgatum, Gilsland, in the Irtbing. Eriophorum angustifolium, Calder Gbjlls and Edge Tarn. E. poli/slachion, Brigham Moss. E. vaginatim, common in bogs. Erodiiim cicutariiim, Gosforth. E. marilimum, St. Bees. Eryngiuvi maritimum, common along tbe sea sliore. Erylliriea centaurium, Bootle, Distington, and a pure white variety in Loweswater. Euonymus Eurnpreus, Lowdore Woods. Euphorbia exigua, Bridge Foot. E. lielioscopia, Gosforth. E. paralia, Haverigg and Harrington shores. E. peplus, Egremont, Bootle station. E. portlandica, Braystones, Drigg shores. Fedia dentata, Frisington. F. olitoria, Moresby Hall. Fesluea vivipara, on the mountains. Gakohdolon luteum, Crosedale. Galiopsis versicolor, near Carlisle. Galium boreale, margins of lakes, Hclvellyn, river Irthing. O. cruciaium, Lamplugh, &o. G. Mollugo, Crofton Hall, Pardshaw, etc. G. palustre, Brackenthwaite, Lowdore. G. saxalile, St. John's Vale. G. Verum, Tallentire, Lamplugh, Lowdore. Genista anglica, Drigg, Bootle. G. scoparia, Bridekirk. G. tinctoria, Seaton, Tallentire, Arlecdon. Genliana Amorella, Tallentire Hill. G. campestris, Tallentire Hill, Workington Warren. G. pneumonanthe, between Maryport and Flimby. G. vcrna, till recently on Egre- mont Green. Geranium cohmhinum, Fell Foot, Newby Bridge, Cockermonth. G. lucidum, Lowdore Bridge. G. phoeum, Kirkland. G. pratense, Lamplugh. G. pusillum, Etlerby Scar. O. pyrendicum. Dale Head, Thirlmere. G. Rohertiamim, St. John's Vale. G. rotundifolium, Yeorton Hall. G. sanguineum, rabbit warren, between Workington and Maryport, St. Bees shores. G. sylvatiaim, St. John's Vale, Keswick. Glaux maritima, Ravenglass, St. Bees. Glaucium luteum, Flimby, Coulderton, Bootle shores. Gnapluilium dioicum, Penrith Fell, Kirkland, Helvellyn, Screes. G. Gallicum, Drigg, Gosforth. G. germanicum, Drigg. G. minimum, Fieldhead in Eskdale. G. rectum, base of Helvellyn. G. uliginomm, Arlecdon. Glechoma hederacea, Barrow Side. Grammitis ceterach, Sandwith, Mosser, Gosforth, ic. Gymnadenia cnnnpsea, Wanthwaite, St. John's Moota. Habenaria albiila, Watendlatb. //. lifolia, margin of Derwent- water, Wythburn Head, Watendlath. JI. chloranlha, abundant in moist situations. U. viridis, Watendlath. Ihllcborus viridis, Duddon Woods, Plumland. Hesperis mittronalis. Dale Head, Thirlmere. Ilieracium alpinum, Helvellyn, at Grisedale Tarn. 77. auran- tiacum, near Keswick. 11. subaudum, Ennerdale, in side woods. II. imbellat^tm, Kirkland How. Ilippuris vulgaris, Dub Mill. Htirdetim murinum, Flimby. II. maritintim, Coulderton. Hamulus Lupulus, hedges near Keswick and Grasmere, Egre- mont. Ili/drocotele vulgaris, in bogs near lakes. Hymenophyllum Tuniridgensi, Screes, Ponsonby Hall. H. Wilsoni, Lowdore Fall, Nook, Scale Force, Walton Crag, Haweswater, Dungeon Ghyll, Ponsonby. Ilijosci/amus niger, Cockerraouth, Flimby, Harrington. Ili/pericum calt/cinum, Irton. H. elodes, Birker Moor, Aitcha Moss, Ullock Moss. H. hirsutum, Camerton, Clifton. H. humi/usum, Lowdore Fall. H. perforatum, Keswick woods. II. pulchrum, Castlehead woods. II. quadran- guium, Clifton. Iberis nudicaulis, near the Hards, Abbey Holme. Impaliens noli-mi-tangere, Stock Ghyll Force, Scale Hill. Imperatoria Ostruthium, Gilsland woods. Inula Ilelenium, Mosser. I. dysenterica, St. Bees Heads. Isoetes lacustus, in most of tbe lakes. Jiisione mvntana, common. Juncus ccenosus, Millom Marsh. J, filiformis, margins of Der- wentwater and Crummock. J. triglumis, rocks above Red Tai-n, Fairfield, Loweswater, Helvellyn. J. uligi- nosus, Workington. Lathrcea squarmariu, wood near Wigton, Winder Scar, Cuns- wick wood. Lemna minor, ponds in Whillimoor. Leonunis Cardiaca, ^^'orkington Row. Lepidium Smithii, margin of Derwentwater ; near Brayton Hall; Abbey Holme. Listeria cordiita, Castlerigg Fell, Melbreak. X. tiidus-avis, Flimby wood, Wood Hall. L. ovata, common. Lithospermum arvcnse, Stanger. L. maritimum, Bootle shore and Workington. L, officinale, Mosser and Westward Parks. L. purpura, caruleum. Castle Carrock. Zittorella lacustris, margin of Derwentwater, Wythburn. Lobellia dortmanna, plentiful in the lakes. Lonicera caprifoUum, Lorton Hall. L. Xylosteum, Workington Park. Lotus major, road sides. Luzula campestris, common on bare heaths. L. campestris, var. congesta, Ullock Moss. L. congcsta, common on bare heaths. L. Fosteri, Lowdore, woods between the mountains and tbe sea. L. pilosa, common in woods. L. sylvatica, banks of the Marron. Lychnis alpina, Brackenthwaite. Lycopodium alpinum, on all tbe mountains. Sty Head, A-c. L. annotinum, said to be found on Langdale Pikes, near Bow Fell. L. clavatum, on all the mountains. L. inundatum, Shoulthwaite, Wastdale, in a bay half way between Keswick and Wythburn. L. Sdaginoides, Lycopodium Selago, Hardknot, Helvellyn. Lycopus arvensis, St. Bees. L. europwus, Bibton Hall. Lysimachia nemorum, Castlehead wood and Lamplugh. L. thysijlora, Keswick. L. vulgaris, Keswick, Ennerdale, Lorton. Lythrum hyssopifotium, said to grow at tbe south end of Der- wentwater. L. silicaria, Ennerdale, Newlands ; Becker- met. Malva Moschata. Cockermouth Road. Matriearia chamomilla, Sylcroft. Meconopsis Cambrica, near Ambleside, Naddale. Melampyrum pratense, common in old woods. Mentlui genlilis, Dalston. M. piperita, M. hirsuta, near Sykes in Naddale, in ditch sides. M, rotundifolia, Lowdore. ileum athamanticum. Fell End in Ennerdale, Docker Garths, Kendal, ne.ar Keswick. J/j/oso(is cratcnsis, Bransty, Schoose. Trientalis Europcaa, Keswick and Bewcastle. Trifulium arvcnse.'EWmhy. T.fiJiforme, Gosioith. T. officinale, Workington Station, Etterby Scar. T. ornithopodiaides, AVorkington Warren. T. procumbens, Drigg. T. striatum, SL Bees. Trijlochin maritimum, Cloffocks. T. palustre, common at the edges of bogs. Triticum juncum, Braystones. Trollius europa:us, margins of lakes, Arlecdon Churchyard, Kirkland, Aspatria, near Whitehaven. Turritis glabra, Stainburn. Tijpha latifolia, Naddle, Crofton, Chapel Suoken, Brayton. I'lex nana, Gosforth, Lamplugh Eells, Whinlatter, Wastdale. U. nanus, var. major, Bab. Great Robinson. Vrlica urcns, Distington, Ullock. 7'tricularia minor. Cooper, Abbey Holme, neai- Ennerdale water; ditches on west side of Derwentwater, Shoulthwaite Moss, Eskmeals. U. vulgaris. Derwentwater. T'accinium MyrtilHs, common on woods and on mountains. J'. oxycoccus, common iu bogs. V. vitis idaa, summit of Skiddaw, Iron Crag, Swinside Fell, Helvellyn, Scawfell, Great Gable, &c. V. uliginosum, near Gamelsby in Aikton, Wardren Moss, Moorside Parks. Valeriana divica, in bogs, near Bampton, Shap, Pooley Bridge Kendal, &c. I'eroniaa Anagallis, St. Bees and Ellen. V. Itederifolia, Dis- tington, Workington. V. montana, Walla Crag. V. sculellata, Ullock Moss. Vicia angustifolia, Stainburn, Santon. V. sylvatica, Clifton Woods, Parton. Viola hirta, Barrowfield Wood. 7'. lutea, Skiddaw, Brighnm. V. palustris, Spitol Wood. Zoslera marina, Bootle shore. In the compilatiou of this short list of the rarer Cumberland plants, we have derived the greatest from the article on botany iu Harriet Mar- tiueau's admirable Guide to the Laies. CHARITIES. From an early period, it has been usual, in the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland, as well as elsewhere, for pious or charitable persons to settle or demise money, property, rent-charges, and other pro- ceeds, for the purpose of supporting the poor, endowing schools, providing clothing, &c., in particular districts or locaUties, or for e.xtending and improving the means already in existence for carrying out these objects. Many of the charities remain in operation to the present day ; some of them improved by the kindred spirits of their managers, others allowed to dwindle into insignificance, some appropriated by the cupidity of individuals, and some of them lost iu a manner that cannot now be traced. For the preservation and good management of the immense amount of property in- volved in these endowments, an act was passed, 58 Geo. III., cap. 91, "for appointing commissioners to inquire concerning charities in England, for the educa- tion of the poor;" and another, 59 Geo. III., cap. 81, to amend the previous act, " and to extend the powers thereof to other charities in England and Wales." Both these acts were continued by others, 5 Geo. IV., cap. 58, and 1 0 Geo. IV., cap. 57. In pursuance of their provisions, commissioners were appointed, whose labours were continued during a series of years, and whose voluminous reports tended materially to elucidate this hitherto little known subject. So important was this inquiiy considered, that another act, 5 and 0 William IV., was passed, " for appointing commissioners to continue the inquiries concerning charities in England and Wales, until the 1st day of March, 1807." In that year, the concluding report appeared. In common with the chai'ities of other counties, cities, and towns of England and Wales, those of Cumberland and West- moreland were carefully investigated and the results placed on record. From this authentic source of infor- mation, it is intended to collect the ^materials for an account of each of the parochial and other charities in the two counties, with a statement of such changes, modifications, and additional particulars as have oc- curred since the date of the commissioners' reports, so far as they can be procured. These accounts will be arranged with their respective localities. CEinkrlan^ IHar^. Cdmberlakd Wabd, which comprises the city of Carlisle, and is the most fertile division of the county, is bounded on the north by Eskdale Wai'd, on the north-west by the Solway Frith, on the south-west by AUerdale- below-Derwent Ward, and on the south-east by Leath Ward. It is of an irregular oblong form, extending about twenty miles from east to west, and about eight miles from north to south, and is watered by the rivers Eden, Petteril, Caldew, Wampool, and Waver, with their numerous tributary streams. The scenery of the fii-st-named river is very picturesque, and is much admired ; on the Petteril and Caldew there are several mills and manufactories. The railways passing tlu'ough the ward are the Newcastle and Cai-Usle, the Maryport aiid Carlisle, the Lancaster and Carlisle, the Caledonian, the Port Carlisle, and the Carlisle and Silloth. Cumberland Ward comprises seventeen parishes, — Beaumont, Bowness, Burgh -on -Sands, Crosby-on-Eden, Christ Church, Dalston, Griusdale, Kirk Andrews-on-Eden, Kirkbampton, Orton, Eockliffe, St. Cuthbert, St. Iilary, StanwLx, Upperby, Warwick, and Weatheral ; one chapelry, Wreay ; and two e.xtra-parochial places, Eaglesfield Abbey and Kiugmoor. '■ THE CITY OF CARLISLE. Carlisle, an episcopal city, a parliamentary and muni- cipal borough, and the capital of the county of Cum- berland, is situated in 54° 53' north latitude, and 2^ 65' west longitude. It is 301 miles north-west by north from London by road, and 300 miles by the North- Western and the Lancaster and Carlisle railways. The city is seated upon an eminence, surrounded by a fertile plain of rich meadows, and is nearly encom- passed by three streams, the largest of which, the Eden, passing Carlisle ou the north side, receives the other two — the Petteril on the east and the Caldew on the west of the city. From the neighbourhood of Stanvrix, on the other side of the Eden, Carlisle is seen to great advantage, while the southern approach is also beautiful and picturesque. The eye commands an extensive prospect towards the north and east, and in tlie middle rises the city, overtopped by the massive towers of the castle on the west; the cathedral still higher in the centre ; and in the east arise the em- battled towers of the court houses. The atmosphere is dry and pure, and the soil chiefly sand and clay, while the proximity of the city to an inlet of the sea, and its due distance fi-om the mountains on all sides render the temperature moderate and temperate. The city, the parliamentary and municipal boundaries of which are co-extensive, consists of the townships of Botchergate, English-sti-eet, Scotch-street, Fisher-street, Castle-street, Abbey-street, Pvickergate, and Eaglesfield Abbey, with part of Caldewgate township. Its popula- tion in 1801 was 9,521, in 1811, 11,645; in 1821, 14,531; in 1831, 19,069; in 1841, 21,878; and in 1851, 26,310, of whom 12,077 were males, and 13,633 females. The number of inhabited houses, at the same period, was 3,950 ; of uninhabited, H9; and there were 38 in course of erection. The following table gives the population of the different townships in the city from the latest parliamentary returns : — ISOl ISll H21 1S31 1S41 1351 Abbey-Street .... 83T 77i 1,024 1,246 1,2S0 1,099 Botchergate .... 1,019 1,801 2,202 4,161 5,460 7,431 Caldewgate 1,990 2,669 3,915 5,104 5,558 7,693 Castle-street 1,0T5 890 901 1,007 971 1,102 Eaglesfield Abbey — — — — 51 693 English-street ...2,334 2,674 3,249 3,773 3,8S0 3,632 Fisher-street 294 369 393 443 478 471 Scotch-street 1,181 1,473 1,612 1,887 1,844 2,003 Eickergate SOI 997 1,235 1,448- 2,209 2,915 Military iu barclis. — — — — 231 1S3 The history of Lugubalia or Carlisle during the Pioman period is as much involved in obscurity as that of the other portions of the county, though there is little doubt that it was a place of some importance, 3 That part of Caldewgate township within the city of Carlisle, comprised, in 1851, 7,405 inhabitants, s No return was made for Eaglesfield Abbey prior to 1841. 1 Christ Church, and Upperby parishes, have been formed imder Lord Blandford's act (1850) from the former parish of St. Cuthliert. 84 CUMBERLAND WARD. and contained its temples, and palaces, and public edi- fices, like the other cities and stations of the empire. It appears to have been one of the Civitales Latii jure donata, or cities under the Latian law, of which there were only ten in Britain, and as such enjoyed peculiar exemptions and privileges. The Scots seem to have looked upon it with no friendly eye, even at this early period, for we learn from two of their own writers, Fordun and Boethius, that it was captured and burnt by them, during the absence of the imperial legions, in the reign of Nero. It must, therefore, have been subsequent to this event, and most probably in the time of Agricola, that it was fortified as a strong frontier town. The defences constructed at this period appear to have been, hkc all the other works of the Romans, of great strength and durability, for despite the many at- tacks which were made upon the city at different times, and the numerous repairs which these attacks rendered necessaiT, much Roman masonry remained till a com- paratively recent period, as we learn from Leland and others.' During the time that Britain was held by the Romans, Cumberland was tolerably secure from the at- tacks of the Picts and Scots, but no sooner were the protecting legions withdrawn than these wild sons of the north overran the country, and Carlisle, from its situation, being almost the first object of attack, was laid in ruins, and its inhabitants put to the sword. From the departure of the Romans, we hear no more of Lugubalia till the seventh century, at which time the Angles possessed the northern parts of England, and acknowledged Eogfrid for their king. This mon- arch visited the city, gave orders for its re-edification, caused a wall to be erected for its defence, and founded, as is generally believed, a college of secular priests to attend to the spiritual wants of the inhabitants. It is to the Angles that the change of the name of the city from Lugubalia to Carlisle is ascribed by the early chroniclers and historians. In the year 608, St. Cuthbert arrived, and was gladly received by the people, who took him to see the fortifica- tions and other remains of antiquity which their city l"In fligsyng to make new building yn the towue often tymes hath bene, and now a lale, found diverse fuudntions of the old cite, as pavimcntes of streates, old arches of dorea, coyne, stones squared, paynted pottes, money hid yn pottes so old and muhlid that when yt was strongly toucliid yt went almost to mowlder; as yn M . . glalbys howse yn dyggyng for the squaryng .... his gardin and orchard, the which ston . . . eth much sowtb. The bole site of the towne is sore chaimgid. For wher as the streets where and great cdiliccs now be vacant and garden ploltes. In the felds about Cair luel yn plow- yng bath be found diverse cornelines and other stonys well entayled for seales, and other places of Cumberland in plowynge hath be fownd brickcs conteyninge the prints of antique workes."— Xt'/unrf's Ilin. Tol.vii, p. 01. possessed.' Lugubalia, with the surrounding country for fifteen miles, was subsequently granted to the see of Lindisfarno, to which it remained attached till the reign of Henry I. On the invasion of Cumberland by the Danes, under Halfdene, in 875, Carlisle, as it was now called, is said to have been destroyed ; but if the statement of some of the Scotch historians be correct, that Gregory, King of Scotland, held an assembly of his nobles here in 880, this destruction must liave been only a partial one, and oue that could be soon repaired. But certain it is that some- time about this period, the city fell into the hands of the Northmen, by whom it was laid in ruins. It con- tinued in this state for about two centuries, during which time there was " never an inhabitant to be seen, but some few straggling Irish, who lodged themselves among the ruins. There was no face nor appearance of a city, but the very foundations were so buried in the earth, that it is said large oaks grew upon them, so that it looked more hke a forest than a place of civil govern- ment, and this is not only attested by our own histo- rians, but also made out by some discoveries that have been late made of large unhewn oak trees buried ten or twelve yards in the ground." Matthew, of Westminster, is the only writer who speaks of the restoration of Carlisle previous to the reign of William Rufus. He tells us that Ranulph de Meschines, as soon as he had received Cumberland from the Conqueror, at once began to rebuild the city ; and further informs us, that the Conqueror him- self, on his return from Scotland, in 1072, gave orders for fortifying Carlisle. If we are to place any reliance on this information, it is manifest that the work of restoration must have proceeded slowly, and made but little progress till the reign of the second Norman king ; for the same writer, in common with the other historians of the period, attributes the restoration of Carlisle and the rebuilding of the castle to William Rufus, who visited the city and placed a garrison there in 1093. The same monarch subsequently sent a number of labourers from the south of England to settle in and around Carlisle, to reclaim the neighbour- ing lands and to bring them into cultivation, and Sir Francis Palgrave considers it not unlikely that these colonists were the people who were ejected from their homes by Rufus, when the New Forest was in course of formation. These extensive operations, there is little doubt, occupied many years, and must have been far from finished when Tyrrell's arrow laid the Rod King low, and Henry T. ascended the English throne ; for in 1122, ' See page fi. ' Dr. Todd's MS. account of the City of Carlisle. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 85 or twelve years after his accession, Henry being at Carlisle, disbursed money towards their completion. From this fact it would appear that the premature death of William II. interfered with the carrying out of the plans devised for the restoration of Carlisle, and it is not at all improbable that the castle and the city walls were finished by David, King of Scotland, who, during several years possessed the city, and occasionally resided there.' From the important position held by Carlisle as a strong frontier town, it was frequently besieged during the many wai's between the Enghsh and the Scotch, and suffered greatly in consequence. In 1135, it fell into the possession of David of Scotland, who captured it either by surprise or treachery, and spent the three following yeai's in adding to the strength of its fortifica- tions, which according to Fordun, were completed in 113S. In the same year was fought the Battle of the Standard, when the Scottish monarch was completely defeated, and obliged to retreat to Carlisle, where he remained for three days in the gi-eatest anxiety regard- ing the fate of his son, whom he had left contending valiantly ^vith the enemy. The prince, however, es- caped, and shortly afterwards joined his father at Carlisle. In the foUowiug September, David was visited at CarHsle by the Cardinal Alberic, who had lauded in England, as papal legate. The Cardinal had passed through the tract of country which had been the 1 Dr. Todd in the work just quoted, says, " I have a manuscript account of the coimty of Cumberland, collected by an industrious person (Mr. Denton, of Cardew) about two hundred years ago, which gives a particular account and relation of this matter, and more full than I can find in any other historian. This author says, that the people wliich King William translated hither were Flemings, and that they and the Irish and E nglish had their several quarters assigned them at the building of the city, after this sort : First, in the street called Abbey street (from the Abbey, whose foundations were there laid), oiu- founder placed tlie Irish families who had lived before in little huts amongst tlie rubbish, called therefrom in old writmgs, Vicus Hyberentium, the Irish street: Secondly, in the street called Castle street, Vicus Castri, because the Castle was built at the west end of it, were placed the Flemings or Normans, wherefore it is sometimes called Vicus Francorum, or corruptly Fennell stteet: Thirdly, in Bichardgate, Vicus Kichardi, so called because it leads towards Eichardby ; and in Botchardgate, Vicus Botchardi, and in the other principal places of the city near to the ma'ket place and the church, were placed the best and principal citizens, natural Englishmen: in the suburbs on tlie west side towards Caldcoats, or Caldewcoats, or cottages, towards Dalston, in Shaddeningate, dwelt the remnant of the Flemings, whereupon the street was called Vicus Flandrentium. In the lowest part of the city, towards the north-west, stood the Fish Shambles, which made tlie street be called Vicus Piscatorum, Fisher sh-eet ; in the south-east of this were the Flesh Shambles, or Butchers' Eow, Vicus Caraificium ; in tlie middle and centre of the town was the market kept. And on the west part was built, on a large piece of ground which is near the fom-th part of the city, the Church and Abbcyfur religious worship. And it was well provided by Walterus, a devout person, who was superior of the works, after he had finished the wall and castle, to take care that the hous5 of God should be well scene of Scottish depredation, and was bo affected with the horrors that he had witnessed, that on his knees he begged of the king to consent to a peace. David was inexorable, but out of respect to the petitioner, he granted a truce for two months ; promised that all the females that had been consigned to slavery in Scotland should be conducted to Carlisle, and liberated on the feast of St. Jlartin ; and gave his word that in future wars the churches should be respected, and protection should be extended to the weak and unresisting. In the year 1149, David conferred the honour of knighthood upon his nephew (afterwards Hem-y II. of England), at Carlisle, and a year later, the same king, prince Henry of England, and Ranulph, earl of Chester, met here, and entered into a league, binding themselves to to make common cause against Stephen, who, at that time had possession of the English crown. The con- temporary writers inform us that on this occasion prince Henry solemnly promised, that on his accession, he would confirm to David and his heirs the lands in England claimed by that monarch. Prince Heniy of Scotland died at Carlisle, in 1152, where his father David also expired, on the '24th of Max, in the following year. At this period the city was of sufficient impor- tance to have a mint, which seems to have been suppUed with silver from mines in the county. Henry succeeded to the throne of England in 1154, when Malcolm of Scotland, the son and successor of built and furnished, to engage thereby the favour of heaven for the good of this new society, — for all Christians agree that if God be not well served in a city, it may be strong but it cannot be safe, — ' nisi Dominus custodierit civitatem, frustra vigilat qui cnstodit earn.' Then William II., out of his princely care and bounty, built the walls of this ruinated city of CarUsIe, built and fortified the castle, laid the foundations of the church and abbey, and placed a great number of inhabitants in all parts of the city ; but before he coiUd bring his designs to perfection, the fabric of his own body failed, and he was called out of this world by an tmespected death, wherefore, the finishing and completmg what he had so well begun, and so far advanced, was left to the royal care of his successor, Henry I., a wise and pious prince. No sooner had King Henry got the crown upon his head, but he had it in his heart to advance the good state of the new garrison here on the borders ; and if other business would not have permitted him to consider its condition, yet the frequent alarms the Scots gave him in these parts would have advertised him how neces- sary it was to keep a number of men to defend these northern cotm- ties from their insolence. Hereupon, in the beginning of his reign, he removed the Flemings and Dutch which had been placed here, as was said, into the Isle of -Anglesea, and sent in their room regiments of families of English out of Kent, Essex, and Middlesex, to inhabit the city, and to defend it too, under the command of Ranulph de Meschines, sister's son to Hugo Lupus, Earl of Chester. What expenses were needful to finish the walls and the church, were sap- plied out of the King's exchequer and put into the hands of Walterus, the supervisor of the works, who was a person of great worth and abihties, who came out of Normandy with tlie Conqueror, served him and his son in great offices, and when he had partly at his own charge, as well as the king's, built aud endowed a monastery here, he took upon him the habit of an Austin monk in it.'' CUMBERLAND WARD. David, applied to the English monarch for the fulfil- mcut of his promise regarding the land, ic, in England, claimed by the Scottish Idngs ; Ilcnrj, however, disre- ganhug the oath made to David, refused to comply, and kept them in his own hands. In 1158 the two monarohs met at Carlisle, but separated without adjusting their differences, though much time was spent in negotiations for that purpose ; " and," says Dr. Todd, '• the King of Scotland did not receive the honour of knighthood, which he had expected." From this time the city remained in the possession of Henry, who, according to Hutchinson, granted a charter to the citizens, in ■which he allowed them to take timber for building from the royal forest of Carlisle. Not long after this, in 1173, hostilities continuing between the two king- doms, WilUara the Lion, the successor of Malcolm, invaded Cumberland, and laid siege to Carlisle, which was well and ably defended by Eobert de Vaux, but learning that an English army was on its march to relieve the city, he drew off his soldiers and returned to his own country. He came back, however, in the following year, and invested Carhsle with an army of 80,000 men. The gai-rison made a determined resis- tance, and the siege lasted several months, during which the greatest privations were endured by all within the city. Being reduced to the last extremity, the brave garrison was on the point of surrendering, when the capture of the Scottish king at Alnwick put an end to the war, and brought the siege to a con- clusion.^ In 1186, Henry H., accompanied by a large army, visited Carlisle, where he was met by WiUiam the Lion and his brother David, the two kings being then on friendly terms. During the reign of this monarch a considerable portion of the city was burnt by the Scots, and in addition to the loss of property sustained by the citizens, the charters and other docu- ments by which they held their various liberties and immunities were completely destroyed. In 1193 they paid tea marks for the restoration of their rights and privileges. King .Tohn visited Carlisle in February, 1201, and stayed in the city for three days, and again iu February, 1206, when he remained for a similar period. In August, 120P, we find that he was here for one day. Four years afterwards, in 1212, we find him again in the old border city, where he airived on the 23rd of June, and staid till the 26th, when he departed for Hc.xham, wliich he reached on the same day, and proceeded thence to Durham." In 1216 CarHsle was besieged and taken by the Scots under Alexander, but the castle still held out > See page 13 for au account of the temporary writer. by Fantosme, a con- Rot. Lit. Patentium, vol. I, port 1. for John. The Scottish king repaired and strengthened the fortifications, but was not able to retain possession of the city long, for in the following year, on the paeificatiou which followed the accession of Henry III., it was surren- dered to Walter Gray, archbishop of York, for the King of England. On this occasion the canons of the cathe- dral are said to have been banished by Gualo, the papal legate, for having, through fear of death, sung mass for the Scottish king while under sentence of excommu- nication. From this time we hear no more of Carlisle till 1233, in which 3'eai-, according to the Lanercost chronicler, two convents were founded, one for the Dominican friai'S, and the other for the Franciscan. In 1283, the citizens were summoned by Edward I. to send two representatives to parliament. Nine years later, 1292, a fire broke out, which is said to have consumed many houses in the city, with the greater portion of the abbey buildings, and greatly damaged the cathedral. This conflagration appears to have been the work of au in- cendiary, who, from motives of resentment, set fire to his father's house, and was subsequently executed for the crime. During the progress of the fire, two thieves, one of whom had taken sanctuary iu the cathedral church, and the other in that of the Franciscan friars, effected their escape, for which the citizens were con- demned to pay a fine of £16 into the exchequer; the fine was, however, remitted by the king, on condition that the citizens should acknowledge that they were re- sponsible for the safe custody of felons flying for sanc- tuary to the churches within the city. In 1296, the earls of Buchanan and Mouteith, with other Scottish nobles, besieged Carlisle, when the garrison made such an energetic resistance, that after three days the assailants were glad to retire. During this siege the women took an active part in the defence of the city, and caused the enemy considerable annoyance, by pouring boiling water and casting heavy stones from the walls upon the be- siegers, " which so abated their courage and fury, that they thought best quietly to retreat, and leave the coun- try to judge that Cailisle women had more courage and valour than the Scottish soldiers.'- In the following year, Wallace, at the head of his army, summoned the city to surrender, but the garrison being well prepared to repel any attack, refused to comply, and the Scottish leader withdrew his troops, without commencing hos- tiUties. Edward I., after his victory at Falkirk, in 1298, came with his army to Carlisle, and is said to have held a parliament there on the 5th of September. Two years later wc find him again here, on his route to s Dr. Todd's MS. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 87 Scotland, when lie was attended by his army and the flower of the EngHsh nobiUty. But the mediation of the Pope brought about a truce between Edward and the Scot- tish monarch, the former of whom, after having passed the border, returned to Holme Cultram, and continued there and at Cadislo till the 10th of October. He sub- sequently went to Dumfries, where the truce was con- cluded, on the 30th of the same month, and arrived at Cariisle again, on his way to the south, on the 3rd of November. The revolt of Bruce, in 1305, recom- menced war between the two countries. The king of England appointed Carlisle as the place of rendezvous for his army, which was summoned to assemble at midsummer, 1300. Edward, with his queen and court, arrived on the 2Sth of August, and remained till the 10th of September, when he made a short excursion into Northumberland, returning to Carlisle in October. His health being in a declining state, from the united effects of disease and advancing years, he moved slowly about the Scottish border, and passed a great portion of his time at Lanercost priory, making, however, in the mean time a short excursion to Carlisle. In Janu- ary, 1807, a parliament met here. On the fii'st of the following March the king removed to Kirk Cam- beck, and on the 4th, accompanied by the queen and court, paid a visit to the Bishop of Carlisle, at Linstock Castle, where he remained for six days, enjoying the hospitality of the prelate, returning to Carlisle to meet his parliament on the 12th. This parUament consisted of Edward, Prince of Wales, the legate of the Holy See, the Archbishop of York, nineteen bishops, several mitred abbots, the officers of state, and a large jiumber of the most powerful barons of the kingdom. During its sittings an excommunication was fulminated against Fiobert Bruce, by Peter of Spain, the papal legate, assisted by the other bishops, with all the ceremonies usual on such occasions.' The army having assembled at the time and place appointed, Edward celebrated his last birth-day, in the ancient city, and on the 28th of June, set out on his march towards Scotland. The exertion of sitting on horseback, however, proved too much for the aged monarch, he having heretofore been carried in a Mtter, and he was obhged to halt at Cald- cote, in the neighbourhood of Carlisle. On the following day, believing him'self better, he resumed his journey, and proceeding by slow marches, on the 5th of July reached Burgh-on-Sands, where he expired two days afterwards. A messenger was immediately despatched to convey the tidings to prince Edward, -who arrived at Carhsle on the next day, and was at once acknowledged 1 The papal bull authorising this, is dated May the 18th, 1306 ; it is grounded on the murder of Comyn, in a church. king by the assembled prelates and nobles. He then proceeded to Burgh, to assist at the obsequies which were performed for the repose of the late monarch's soul, and shortly afterwards, abandoning the war with the Scots, returned to the south, passing through Car- lisle in September. In 1314, Robert Brace invaded England by Carlisle, and wasted aU the country as far as York.' In the fol- lowing year, he again entered Cumberland, and on the 22nd of July appeared before Carlisle, which he at once invested, little expecting the determined resistance which he met with from the garrison and its brave commander, Andrew de Hercla. " On every day of the siege," says the Chronicle of Lanercost, " an attack was made on some one of the three gates of the city, and sometimes all three together ; but not with impunity, for daits, arrows, and stones, as well then as at other times, were cast down upon them from the walls in so great an abundance, that they questioned among them- selves whether the stones did not increase and mul- tiply within the walls. But on the fifth day of the siege, they erected an engine for carting stones near the church of the Holy Trinity, where the king had placed himself, and continually threw great stones towards the Caldew-gate, and at the wall, but did no injuiy, or but Httle to those within, except that they killed one man. There were indeed within the city, seven or eight simi- lar engines with other warlike instruments, called springaldes, for throwing long darts ; and slings in sticks, for casting stones, which greatly terrified and annoyed those who were without the city. In the meanwhile the Scots erected a great herefray, in the manner of a tower, the height of which considerably exceeded that of the walls ; which, being observed, the carpenters of the city erected a wooden tower, which exceeded the height of the other, upon one of the towers of the wall towards which that engine must have come, if it had approached the waU ; but it never drew near to the wall, for when it was drawn upon wheels over moist and clayey ground, there it stuck, by reason of its weight, nor could it be drawn any further, or occa- sion any inconvenience. But the Scots applied many long ladders, which they had brought with them, for the purpose of ascending the wall in the same manner in different places, and a sow for undermining the wall of the city, if the}' found it practicable ; but neither the sow nor the ladders availed anything. They also made bundles of straw and grass in great abundance, to fill up the moat without the wall, on the east side, in order to pass over it dry ; they also made long wooden bridges ' The CJhronicle of England, by John Capgrave, London, 1858, p. 181. 83 CUMBERLAND WAED. running on wheels, that being drawn forcibly and rapidly with cords, they might be carried across the ditch ; but neither would the bundles, during tlie wliole stay of the Scots there, fill up the moat, nor those bridges pass the ditch, but fell by their weight to the bottom. On the ninth day of the siege, when all the engines were ready, they made a general assault on all the gates of the town, and attacked valiantly throughout the whole circuit of the walls, and the citizens defended them- selves as valiantly; and in like manner on the following days. Moreover the Scots employed a stratagem similar to that by which they took the castle of Edinburgh : they caused the greater part of their army to make au assault on the eastern part of the city, against the place of the Fi-iars Minors, that they might draw^ thither the party within ; but the Lord James Douglas, a valiant and wary soldier, with certain of the more bold and alert of the army, posted themselves on the western side, over against the place of the Canons and Preaching Friars, where, on account of the height [of the walls] and diffi- culty, an attack was not apprehended, and there erected long ladders, which they ascended, and they had archers in great numbers, who discharged their arrows thickly, lest any one should raise his head above the wall ; but, blessed be the Lord, they found such a resistance there that they were thrown to the ground with their ladders, and there, and elsewhere about the walls, some were taken, some slain, and others wounded. Yet no English- man was killed during the whole siege, except one man struck with an arrow, and the one above-mentioned, but a few were wounded. Thereupon, on the eleventh day, that is to say, on the feast of St. Peter ad Vincula (August 1st), the Scots, either because they heard of the approach of the English to raise the siege, or because they despaired of making any farther progress, early in the morning returned into their own land, in confusion, leaving behind them all their warlike engines above mentioned. Certain English pursuing them, took John de Moray, who, in the before mentioned battle at Stri- vellan, had for his share twenty-three English knights, besides esquires and others of lower rank, and received a great sum for their ransom. They took also ^Yith the aforesaid John, the Lord Piobert Bardolf, a man cer- tainly of the very worst disposition towards the English, and brought them both to the castle of Carlisle." This e.\tract from the chronicle will give an insight into the manner in which sieges were carried on in those days. In 1322, Andrew de Ilercla, governor of Carlisle, having vanquished the Duke of Lancaster and his adherents at Boroughbridge, was rewarded for his ser- vices by the earldom of Carlisle and the wardeuship of the Wenteru Marches. The same vear, Edward II. assembled a numerous army for the invasion of Scot- land, information of which coming to the ear of Bruce, he entered England near Carlisle, and burnt Piose Castle, plundered the Abbey of Holme Cultram, and laying waste the surrounding countiy, proceeded through Copeland as far as Preston, carrying destruction whither- soever he went. He returned with great booty, and encamped in the neighbourhood of Carlisle for five days, during which time the Scottish troops were constantly engaged in plundering. "Whereupon," says isicholsou and Burn, "Andrew de Hercia, concluding that King Edward neither knew how to govern nor defend his kingdom, and fearing that he would in the end lose it, did, on the 3rd of January, privately repair to King Piobert, at Loohraaben, and there they mutually agreed to assist and succour each other with all their might. And it was further agreed, that if the king of England should within one year approve thereof, that then Iving Robert should cause one monastery to be built in Scot- land, and endowed with 500 marks of yearly revenue for ever, to pray for the souls of all those that had perished in the wars between England and Scotland ; and should pay 4000 marks of silver to the king of England within ten yeai-s : and that the king of Eng- land should have the prince of Scotland and marry him to a relation. The earl returning to Carlisle, sum- moned all the chief of the county, as well clergy as laity, and there, more out of fear than love, they all swore that they would keep and defend the said con- vention with their whole power. And all the common people were much pleased therewith, hoping they might now live peaceably at home. But an account of all these proceedings being carried to King Edward, he was greatly surprised and troubled at it ; and publicly proclaiming the earl a traitor, sent to Anthony Lord Lucy to apprehend him, promising that he and his assistants should be well rewarded. Whereupon the Lord Lucy, having his squires and other men properly dispersed here and there upon various pretended causes, on the morrow of St. Matthias the Apostle (February 23th), he and they entered the castle of Carlisle, where the earl was, as upon common business. With Lord Lucy were three stout and daring knights. Sir Hugh do Lowther, Sir Pilchard de Denton, and Sir Hugh de iloriceby, with four squires, all well armed. And as they entered the castle they carefully left a guard at every gate. The Lord Lucy, with his three knights, went through the great hall to the place where the earl was sitting, and thus accosted him, — 'Sir, you must either surrender or defend yourself instantly.' Upon which he submitted. Then some of his servants calling out treason, the keeper of the inner gate would have THE CITY OF CARLISLE. shut it upon the knights that had entered, hut Sir Richard de Denton liilled him with his own hand, and this was the only person that was slain in the whole affair. But all that were in the castle surrendered themselves and it to Lord Lucy. But some of the family repaired with all speed to High-head Castle, to acquaint his brother John therewith, who immediately fled into Scotland, and with him Sir William Blount and many others. A special message being despatched to King Edward at York, to acquaint him with all that was done, and to know his pleasure ; the earl, in the meantime, apprehending what would be the consequence, confessed himself to several monks, who gave him abso- lution, and assured him of eternal happiness. On the feast of St. Chad (March 2nd), six days after the seizing of the said earl, an armed force, with Sir Jeffrey de Scrope, chief justiciar, arrived at Carlisle, who, the ne.\t day, tried and sentenced the said earl to be degraded, hanged, and quartered. After the pronouncing which sentence, the earl said, ' You have disposed of my body at your pleasure, but my soul I give to God.' And then, with an unchangeable countenance and uplifted hands and eyes, he was carried to the gallows and executed, having first fully explained the intention of the treaty." ' 1 History of Cumberland and Westmoreland, vol. ii, pp. 2.30, 2.31 . The judgment was in substance as follows :—Wlierea9 our lord tbi. king, on account of the loyalty which he thought he had observed in you, Andrew de Hercla, mode you earl of Carlisle, and -with his own hand girded you with the sword, and gave you a fee of the county, with castles, towns, lands, and tenements, to support the estate of an earl ; and yet you have traitorously, falsely, and maU- ciously gone to Robert Bruce to maintain him in opposition to the will of the king, this court doth award that you shall be degraded, and lose the title of earl for yourself and your heirs for ever; and that you shall be ungirded of your sword, and that your spurs of gold shall be strack off from your heels. And whereas you, Andrew, the liegeman of our lord the king, contrary lo your homage, faith, and allegiance, have traitorously gone to Robert Bruce, the mortal enemy of our lord the king, &c., this court doth award that for the same treason you shall be drawn, hanged, and beheaded : that your heart, bowels, and entrails, from which these traitorous thoughts proceeded, shall be plucked out and burnt to ashes, and the ashes be scat- tered in the wind ; and that your body shall be divided into four quarters and sent to Newcastle, Carlisle, York, and Shrewsbury, and your head shall be placed on London Bridge for an example, tliat others may learn not to commit such treasons against their liege- lord.— iJ^m. 999, Pari. Writs, ii. app. 262. The following account of this affair is given by Capgrave ; — " In this same yere Andrew Hercle, whech took Thomas of Lancastir, and broute him to the kyng, and whom the kyng bad rewarded gretely, and mad erl of Carlyle, ros ageyn the Spenseres. And whanne he say it myte not availe, thie were so wallid with the kyngis grace, he rebelled openly, and drew to the Scottis, and favoured her part agej-n the kyng. Thenne was there a nobil knyte in that cuntre, cleped Sir Anthony Lucy. He, supposing to stand the better in the kyngis grace, sodeynly fel upon this tjTant at KarlhU, took him, put him in yrunnes, and brout him to London to the kyng, and there was he schamefuUy deposed of alle worchip, and deed as a tre- toure."— C/ironicie q/ England, p. 191. 18 As some reward for his services in arresting Hercla, Lord Lucy appears to have been appointed governor of Carlisle, for we find that in 1327 the lords Urford and Mowbray were sent to that city with a reinforcement to the governor, Anthony Lord Lucy. He does not, however, seem to have held that important post for any lengthened period; for, in 1332, when Edward Baliol sought protection here after his unsuccessful attempt to obtain the Scottish crown, he was entertained by Lord Dacre, who appears to have been governor at that time. In 1334, Edward Baliol and the earls of Warwick and Oxford were sent to Carlisle by Edward III., who was then in Scotland, with instructions to defend Cum- berland against the Scots. Shortly after their arrival in the city, their force having received several additions, they made an incursion into Scotland under the leader- ship of Baliol, and then returned to Carlisle. On the 11th of July in the following year, another expedition, headed by the king in person, marched from Carlisle against the Scots, who three years later retaliated by making an irrup.tion into Cumberland and attacking Carlisle, but being unable to make any impression upon the city, they burnt the suburbs and the hospital of St. Nicholas, as well as Eose Castle. In 1345, how- ever, they were more successful, and the city itself was given to the flames. From this date we find no further notice of Cai'hsle till 1356, in which year Bishop Wel- ton granted an indulgence of forty days, upon the usual conditions, to aU those who should contribute to the repaii-s of the bridge over the Eden to the north of the city. On the demise of Edward III., in 1377, Richard II. succeeded to the EngUsh throne ; and in the thu-d year of his reign " the Scots," says Dr. Todd, "invaded Cumberland and Westmoreland, kiUing all they met, and miserably laying waste the whole country. They passed by the city of Carlisle, going through the forest of Inglewood, where they seized four thousand head of cattle and sent them to Scotland, with a smaU party to secure them. They came to Penrith on the market-day, and killed many of the people, putting the rest to flight, and spoiling the town of all goods which they were able to carry away. In their return they designed to have made an attack upon Carlisle, but finding it well manned and provided, they durst not attempt it, which some of the chief archers perceiving, made a sally upon them, and by their bows and arrows killed many of them. The Earl of Northumberland would have pursued them, but the king would not suffer him, though he had lost a thousand marks by the rapine and fury of the invaders. About two years after, as soon as they had eaten then: stolen provisions, the Scots 90 CUMBERLAND WAED. again invade Cumberland, bum part of Penrith, lay siege to Carlisle, and throw fire into it, which consumes to ashes one whole street ; and they had in all proba- bility tiiken the city, but that they were frightened away in a miraculous manner, as is reported, which was thus : — When they had put the citizens to great consternation, and were ready to make an assault, there appeared a woman to them, and told them that the king of England with a puissant anny was coming upon them. They, looking about, saw the English banner, and a vast army advancing towards them, as they sup- posed, whereupon they left their ladders and engines at the walls, and took to their heels for security, never looking behind them till they came into their own country. This woman was then supposed to be the Blessed Virgin, the patroness of the city, who had upon these occasions often appeared to the citizens and inhabitants, as Henry Knighton is of opinion ; and such religious esteem has been had towards the Blessed Virgin, that her impress with our Saviour in her arms, is the public seal of the Corporation to this day." In 1385, the same enemy, in conjunction with some French auxiliaries, invaded Cumberland, when another fruitless attempt was made upon Carlisle; and in 1387 the city was again attacked by the Scots under the Earls of Douglas and Fife, but with a similar result. " In 1391," says the writer just quoted, "this city was burnt by misfortune, whereupon the king (Richard II.) moved with compassion, gave to the citizens £40 fee fai-m-reut, and a mill for four years, to repair in part the damages which they had sustained. After the poor and unfortunate city was burnt and laid in ashes so many times by the fury of the Scots and by casualty, as has been seen, it was able to recover itself from many desolations; and even at this day the scars of those dreadful wounds are yet apparent, for the town is so thin and empty of inhabitants that it looks like a country village well walled about rather than a city which can boast of so many royal favours and immuni- ties bestowed upon it ; and these devastations which it has suffered, ai-e not only attested by our historians, but also demonstratively evident now-a-days by the several pavements which are discovered in digging wells, one above another, which arc nothing but the ancient streets, buried in vast heaps of rubbish, at the several conflagrations that the town has suffered." Dm-ing the civil wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, the city is said to have been " miserably hai-rassed," but we have no recorded particulars of that period with the exception of an act of parliament passed in 1101, in which it is stated that " Carhsle had suffered greatly in the late civil wars when besieged by the King's enemies, Margaret (the late Queen), Edward (late Prince of Wales), and Henry Duke of Exeter, when they burnt the suburbs and the city gates." In consideration of what the citizens had suffered on this occasion, Edward IV. remitted one half of their foe-farm rent of £80, and gi'anted to them the lordship of the royal fisheries at Carlisle. By another act passed in the twenty-second year of the reign of the same monarch, it was enacted that no English goods were to be sold to the Scots at any other places than Carlisle and Berwick-upon-Tweed, under pain of forfeiture. For the next forty years we hear no more of the ancient city. In 1522, however, the Duke of Albany, at that time regent of Scotland, entered Cumberland at the head of a large army, and advanced towai'ds Cai'- lisle; but finding the city well prepared to sustain a lengthened siege, he withdrew his forces without at- tempting anything of importance. In 1537 broke out the Northern Piebellion, or, as it is more generally called, the Pilgrimage of Grace, which soon spread over the northern counties; and we are informed that 8,000 men, under Musgrave, Tilby, and others, attacked Carlisle without effect, being repulsed by the gar- rison and citizens. The Duke of Norfolk, who com- manded the royal forces sent against the insurgents, intercepted them on their retreat from Carlisle. All the leaders, with the exception of Musgrave, were cap- tured, and seventy-four officers expiated with their blood their too ardent attachment to the faith and practices of the old religion, — being hung on the walls of the city. The same year Cuthbert Tunstal, bishop of Durham, and the Bishop of Orkney, met at Carlisle, as commissioners for arranging a treaty of peace between England and Scotland. Nothing farther transpires relating to Carlisle till 1568, when Elizabeth occupied the English throne, and Mary of Scotland makes her appearance here as a. prisoner. She landed at Workington on Sunday, May 10th, whence she proceeded to Coekermouth, and then, under the escort of Mr. Lowther and a number of the gentlemen of the county, she was conducted to Carlisle and lodged in the castle. She was followed to the city by the Earl of Northumberland, who was desirous of getting possession of her person, but the vigilant watch kept over Mary by Mr. Lowther prevented the accom- plishment of the earl's designs. When Elizabeth was informed of the Scottish queen's arrival at CarUsle, she sent insti-uctions to Mr. Lowther that Mary should be treated with the greatest respect, and commanded Lady Scrope, and other ladies, to repair to Carlisle and attend upon her. In order that Mary's conduct might be strictly watched and properly reported, Elizabeth THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 91 ordered Lord Scrope and Sir Francis KnoUes to pro- ceed to Carlisle for that purpose. On tbe 29th of May, Sir Francis wrote to Elizabeth, "iviu" her an account of the first interN-iew which he and Lord Scrope, tbe lord deputy, had with the captive queen. In this letter he describes Mary's great dis- satisfaction at not being admitted into tbe presence of Elizabeth, and recommends to the latter 's consideration whether it would not be more honourable in the sight of foreign princes, and of her own subjects, to suffer the Queen of Scotland to return to her own country, if she thought proper. Alluding to the possibility of her being still longer detained a prisoner, he remarks, " She cannot be kept so rigorously as a prysener with your hyghness honor (in myn opynyon) but that with devyces of towels or toys at her chamber wyndow or elsewhere in the nyght, a bodye of her agylyty and spyryte may escape beyng so near the border." It having been resolved to detain Mary as a prisoner, Sir Francis was appointed her keeper, an oi£ce which he by no means relished, though he appears to have fulfilled the disagreeable task imposed upon him with the utmost fidelity. In a letter dated June the loth, he recommends Naworth Castle as a much more secure place for her residence than Carlisle. He also, in the same letter, assures Elizabeth that every precaution should be taken for Mary's safe custody, though he seems to think that escape was possible, considering the small number of guards he had at his disposal, and that appearance of liberty which it was deemed advisable to allow her. We gather from the same letter that it was to keep up this semblance of liberty that the Scottish queen was allowed to attend service at the cathedral church. \A'itli respect to air and exercise she does not appear to have had much indul- gence, as we learn from the letter just mentioned, in which Sir Francis says, "Yesterday hyr grace went owte at a posterne to walke on a playinge green toward Skotland, and we, with 24 halberders of Master Eead's band, with divers gentlemen and other servants waited on hyr. Where about twenty of her retinue pla3-ed at footeball before hyr tbe space of two bowers very stronglye, nymbyley, and skyllfullye, without any fowle play offered, tbe smalness of theyr balls occasyonyng theyr fayre playe. And before yesterdaye since our comyng she went but twyse out of the towne, once to the lyke playe at footeball in the same place, and once roode oute a hunting the hare, she gallopyng so fast upon every occasyon, and hyr hoole retinue being so well horsyd, that we upon experyence thereoff, dowbtyng that upon a set cowrse some of her frendes owte of Skotland myghte invade and assaultc us upon the sodayno to reskue and take hyr from us, we mean here- after yff any sotche lydyng pastymes be reqwjTcd that waye, so motche to feare the indangeryng of her per- son by some sodayne invasyon of her enemyes, that she must hold us excused in that behalfe." Elizabeth, it appears, was most anxious to learn what kind of person the Scottish queen was, for in reply to some inquiries concerning Mary, Sir Francis observes, "This Ladie and Prynces is a notable woman, she seemeth to regard no ceremonious honour beside the acknowledgyng of byr estate royalle, she shoethe a disposition to speak motche, to be bold, to be pleasant, and to be very famelyare ; she shoethe a great desyre to be avenged of hyr enemyes ; she shoethe a rediness to expose hyrself to all perylls in hoOpe of victorie ; she delythethe motche to hear of hardiness and valeancye, commendyng by name all approved hardye men of hyr couutiye, althoe they be hyr enemyes, and she con- cealeth no cowardness." With regard to her attendants, and how they were disposed, Sir Francis tells us, that • she had about thirty or forty servants, including gen- tlemen servers and waiters, carvers and cupbearers ; but not more than three or four of these had lodgings in the castle. The lords Claude and Skarliug, and young Mr. Maxwell, with several other gentlemen and their servants, lay in the city at their own expense, and waited upon the queen when opportunity offered. Lord Henies, who had gone to London to try and obtain for Mary an interview with Elizabeth, shortly after this returned to Cariisle, his efforts having proved unavail- ing. An order subsequently arrived for her removal to the south, which Mary resisted as long as she could, but was ultimately obliged to comply with, and after a resi- dence of two months in Cariisle, the Scottish queen left the ancient city, which she was destined to behold no more. She was removed on the 13th of July to Lowther, whence she was taken to Bolton Castle in Yorkshire. Fears being entertained for the safety of Carlisle during the rebellion of the Earls of Northumberland and Westmoreland, in ISO'J, Lord Scrope, warden of the western marches, occupied the city, but this precaution was needless, as the forces of tlie earls did' not advance beyond Naworth, where they dispersed. In 1596, Wilham Armstrong, or " Kinmont Willie," a noted borderer, was taken prisoner on the marches, and car- ried to Cariisle, although it was a day of truce upon the borders. When the knowledge of WiUie's capture came to the ears of Lord Buccleugh, who at that time had charge of Liddesdale, he at once applied to Lord Scrope, the English warden of the western marches for the bor- derer's release, but his application being refused, he at once formed the resolution of rescuing his countiyman. 92 CUMBERLAND WARD. Coming to Carlisle during the night with a party of 200 meu, he made a breach in the city wall sufficient to aduiit a few men, who, by breaking open a postern gate soon let in the remainder, and before the garrison was prepared for resistance, Armstrong, whose place of confinement was previously known, was released and carried off in triumph. The boldness of the Scots in thus surprising au English fortress is said to have highly incensed Queen EUzabeth, and to liave en- dangered the peace of the two kingdoms. When Buccleugh was afterwards presented to the English sovereign, tradition tells us that, in a peremptory way, she demanded how he dared to undertake an enterprise so desperate; and the undaunted chieftain's answer was, " What is it that a man dares not do?" A reply which so strack the queen that she exclaimed, " With ten thousand such men our brother of Scotland might shake the firmest throne of Europe." According to Ridpath, commissioners appointed to settle the disturbances upon the borders met at Carlisle in 1596. They were empowered to hear and redress all wrongs committed since the last sitting of the com- missioners, which took place at Berwick-upon-Tweed upwai'ds of nine years previously. This arduous under- taking found them employment for several months, during which time the raids of the borderers were as frequent as ever. The Bishop of Durham was the principal commissioner on the part of England, and the Bishop of Dunkeld on the part of Scotland. Carhsle suffered severely from the plague in 1598, when 1,196 persons, or about a third of the entire population, are said to have died. The sick poor were not neglected on the occasion, upwards of i;200 being collected for their relief. On the 1 9th of August of the same year, Christopher Robinson, a Roman Catholic priest, suffered death at Carlisle, with all the revolting details usual in cases of high treason, for having celebrated the rites of liis religion, and performed the duties of his profession. He was a native of Woodside, and having studied at Douay and Rheims, was ordained and sent upon the English mission in 1592. During his imprisonment before execution. Bishop Robinson, who at that period held the see of Carlisle, had a conference with him, but failed in his attempt to make him abandon his religion. In 1600 an act of parhament was passed for the rebuilding of the two bridges over the Eden at the expense of the county, as they were both at that time in a very decayed state. On the accession of James VI. of Scotland to the English throne on the demise of Queen Elizabeth, the border inroads may be said to have ceased, as only one occurred after that event, and in 1003 the garrison of Carlisle was reduced. In 1671 James I. visited the city, and was gladly received by the citizens, who by their mayor and recorder presented him with an ad- dress, a gold cup valued at £30, and a purse containing forty jacobuses. His majesty graciously received the address, and not less graciously the cup and purse. He subsequently visited the Cathedral, and having attended a feast given in honour of the royal visit, departed on the 7th of August, after a stay of three days. Scotland being in rather a disturbed state in 1639, a garrison of 500 soldiers was placed in Carlisle, but the Earl of Stafford, not deeming this number suf- ficient, in a letter dated May 30th, advised its being increased to 1500. In June of the following year, rumours being prevalent that a Scottish army was about to enter Cumberland, orders were issued to pre- pare the various beacons, so that they might be avail- able on the shortest notice : strict watch was also to be kept on the threatened part of the county ; and the governor of Carlisle, Sir Nicholas Byron, who was appointed the same year, received authority to pro- claim martial, law, should he think such a measure requisite. In 1641, in pursuance of the provisions of a treaty made with the Scots, the garrison of Carlisle was disbanded, and the Parliament gave orders that the arms and ammunition should be carefully laid up till again wanted. Shortly after this date the civil wars commenced, and early in 1044 Montrose raised a small army in Cumberland. Having advanced as far as Dumfries, and taken possession of it, he was compelled by the Earl of Callander to fall back on Carlisle, which place, according to some accounts, was besieged by the latter. If this be con-ect, the siege must have been of short duration, as it is hardly men- tioned by any of the contemporary writers. In June of the same year, the royahst troops, under the com- mand of Sir Thomas Gleuham, took possession of Carlisle, which, in the following October, was invested by General Lesley and a detachment of the Scottish army. Sir Thomas Glenham defended the city with the greatest courage, industry, and patience, being well supported by his devoted soldiers ; and it was only after a siege of nine months, during which the garrison and inhabitants were compelled to subsist on the flesh of horses, dogs, and other animals, and when all hope was lost by the disastrous result of the battle of Naseby, that Carlisle capitulated. It was surrendered on the most honourable terms to Leslpy on the 25th of June, 1645, and was immediately occupied by Scottish troops, who continued in possession till the December of the following year. I'or three years after this siege we- THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 93 learn nothing of Carlisle ; but in April, 1648, mention of it is again made as being captured by Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Thomas Glenham, who in July gave it up to the Duke of Hamilton, who placed in it a Scotch garrison, and appointed Sir William Livingstone governor. Shortly afterwards, when Sir Philip Mus- grave, with a portion of the royalist militia of Cumber- land, presented himself before the city, the governor refused to admit him. Carlisle was surrendered to Cromwell on the 1st of the following October, pursuant to treaty made some time before, between the Mai-quis of Argyle and General Monro, and at once received a strong garrison, which, consisting chiefly of cavaliy, proved of the greatest service in repressing the tur- bulence of the mosstroopers during the three years in which its efficiency was maintained. After the resto- ration of Charles II. to the throne of his ancestors. Sir Philip Musgrave, whose devotion to the royal cause was conspicuous on every occasion, was appointed gover- nor of Carlisle, and from this period the ancient city appears to have enjoyed comparative tranquillity, dis- turbed only on one occasion when the last effort was made to replace the Stuarts on the English throne. We come now to the memorable year 17-45, at which time the population of Carlisle did not exceed 4000 persons, almost the whole of whom dwelt within the walls of the city, — the present subui-bs, with the e.\cep- tion of a few cottages outside the gates, having no e.xisteuce. The old castle and walls, the connecting links which united the Cai-lisle of that period to the dim ages of the past, and the more recent ones of Scottish warfare, were still standing ; and with the presence of a company of invalided soldiers, under the command of a governor who rarely, if ever, saw his troops ; and the closing of the gates at the boom of the evening gun, still reminded the citizens that they dwelt in what was termed a gar- rison town. The principal people in the city were the members of the ecclesiastical body, the dean and chap- ter, and the members of the corporation, between whom not the best understanding appears to have existed. In short, Carlisle, in 174.5, in regard to its condition to sustain a siege, differed from the Carlisle of border history as widely as it is possible to conceive, — its im- portance as a frontier town having disappeared after the union of England and Scotland ; nor was there any reason that would justify the authorities in its being maintained as one. The thought of an invasion from Scotland no one for a moment entertained ; and hence the astonishment and consternation felt by the entire Idngdom, when the news of the irruption of the High- landers spread over the country. The appearance of a party of fifty or sixty Highland cavalry on Stanwix bank, immediately opposite to Car- lisle, on the afternoon of Saturday, November the 9th, warned the citizens that they were about to be attacked, and caused them to man the wall as best they could. The fear of injuring the countiy people, who were thronging the road on their return from market, and among whom the Highland party had mixed them- selves, prevented the garrison from opening fire, and thus allowed the city to be reconnoitred in safety ; but when the country people had retired, a few shots were fired from the ten-gun battery of the castle, and the Highlanders at once retreated. Having been rein- forced, in the afternoon, by the arrival of part of the Peebles division, with the artillery, the prince, with a portion of the army, marched down the right bank of the Eden, which he crossed at Peatwath, near Rockhffe, and proceeded the same night to Moorhouse. On the following day considerable reinforcements arrived, and the city was formally and completely invested, — one body, under the Duke of Perth, approaching by Stanwix; another, under the Marquis of TuUibardiue, by Shad- dongate ; and a third, commanded by the prince in person, by Black Hall, fields and St. Nicholas. The fire from the castle and citadel obliged the assailants to retire, and the prince slept that night at Black Hall. The following day, Monday, the besiegers, much to the relief of the citizens, marched to Brampton, which they judged more favourable for repelling an attack which they thought Marshal W^ade was about to make upon them ; but as no more was heard of the marshal, and a few days were lost in -waiting for his coming, on the afternoon of the 13th the Highlanders returned and resumed the siege, the trenches before the city being opened the same evening. For the defence of Carlisle at this time, the garrison consisted of the Cumberland and W^estmoreland regiments of militia, two companies of invalids, numbering about eighty men, and a few volunteers, the whole being under the command of Colonel Durand, a brave and skilful officer, who was resolved to defend the place to the last, and there is no doubt that he would have kept his resolution had he been sufficiently supported by those fi'om whom he had every right to expect assistance. On the morning of the 14th, Colonel Durand received a message from the officers of the militia regiments, in which they acquainted him that having been lately extremely fatigued with duty, in expectation of rehef from his majesty's forces, and it appearing that no such relief was now likely to be had, and not being able to do duty or hold out any longer, they were determined to capitulate. On receipt of this the commandant went at once to the officers, and endeavoured, by every means M CUMBERLAKD WAED. iu his power, to induce tliem to change their resolution, but his efforts were fruitless. The townspeople shortly afterwards joined the mililia officers, upon which Colonel Durand, Captain Gilpin, and the officers of the invalids, after protesting against the proposed capitulation, retired, with the two companies of invalids, into the castle, which they were resolved to defend to the last. On the morn- ing of Friday, the 15th, the besiegers had pushed their trenches within eighty yards of the wall, and it appears intended to assault the place, and try to take it by esca- lade, but before anything could be effected, a white flag was hung out, and an offer made to treat for the surren- dering of the city. This proposal came from the officers of the militia and the inhabitants, and referred to the city alone, — not embracing the castle. An express was at once despatched to the prince at Brampton, whose reply was that the castle must be surrendered at the same time with the city, or the proposition would not be entertained. In the afteraoon these conditions were accepted on the following terms : — " That the town and castle, with the artilleiy and magazines, should be delivered up ; that the men should lay down their arms in the market-place, after which they should have passes to go where they pleased, on taking oath not to carry aims against the House of Stuart for a twelvemonth ; that the city of Carlisle should retain all its privileges ; that they should deliver up all arms, &c., and also the horses of such as had appeared in arms against the prince ; and that all deserters, particularly the soldiers that had enlisted with the Highlanders after the late battle at Preston Pans, and had fled to CarUsle, should be delivered up." These things being agreed to, the Duke of Perth imme- diately entered the city and took possession, and the next day proclaimed King James, attended by the mayor and corporation in their robes of office. The prince received the mayor and corporation at Brampton, where they presented him with the keys of the city ; and on ■Monday, the I8th, the Pretender made his entry into Carlisle. The capture of the ancient city was in every respect a fortunate circumstance for the prince, for, in addition to its moral effect, it put him in possession of a number of cannon and a large ijuantity of ammunition, besides miUtary stores of various kinds ; and, what was of still greater importance, furnished a basis for securing his further advance into England, affording a safe medium for keeping open his communication with Scotland, and a secure point upon which to retreat in case of a re- verse of fortune. The terms of the capitulation were honourably fulfilled, and the Highlanders appear to have refrained from plunder or violence. Captain John Hamilton was made governor of the castle, and a gar- rison of 100 men placed under his command ; and Sir John Arbuthnot, an officer iu the service of the King of France, received the governorehip of the city. These appointments being made. Prince Charles Edward, on the 92ud of November, marched out of Carlisle, at the head of his troops, and proceeded towards the south. It would be foreign to our purpose to follow the footsteps of the prince and his brave followers, suffice it to say that after having reached Derby, it was thought advisable to return to Scotland as quickly as possible. WTien the news of this retrograde movement reached Carlisle, Governor Hamilton began to prepare for the worst, by seizing on the markets, fi.xmg prices on all commodities, laying in supplies, and taking every pre- caution to ensure the safety of the city, which he fully apprehended would have to resist the attacks of the lung's troops. On the 19th of December, the retreating Highlanders entered Carlisle, and two days afterwards set out for Scotland, leaving a garrison in the castle, consisting of the Manchester Picgiment, 120 strong, with 270 Scotch troops, and a few others, including four French officers. The same day, the Duke of Cum- berland, with his entire army, marched from Penrith, and on his ai'iival before Carlisle, proceeded at once to invest the city, fixing his head-quarters at Black Hall, as Prince Charles had done previously. The governor of the city. Colonel Francis Townley, iu conjunction with Hamilton, the governor of the castle, resolved to do all in his power to retain Carlisle for the house of Stuart, or perish in the attempt. But his efforts were unavailing. The Duke of Cumberland, having received some cannon from Whitehaven, and being reinforced by the arrival of some Dutch troops, opened fire on the 28th of December, and on the 80th, two breaches having been made in the walls, Hamilton proposed to surrender on being allowed the privilege of prisoners of war. To this proposition the duke's answer was that they must surrender at discretion; and the only terms he would grant was that the gar- rison should not be put to the sword, but referred to the king's pleasure. On these hard conditions the garrison was obliged to give up the city, which was immediately occupied by 1,100 infantry and 120 cavalry, under the command of Brigadier Blight. The garrison, amounting to 396 officers and men, were made prisonei's, and, after laying down their arms in the market place, were conveyed for security to the cathedral, where a strong guard was placed over them. On the 31st the duke entered Carlisle, and at once ordered the mayor and town-clerk to be arrested and sent to London ; but they being able to vindicate tlieir THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 95 conduct, were subsequently restored to liberty. Several other gentlemen were also taken into custody, who did not fare so well. The duke took up his quartere in Mr. Highmore's house, where the prince also had lodged, but in a few days he returned to London, having given the command of the army to General Hawley, whom he instructed to follow the fugitives into Scotland. General Sii- Charles Howard was appointed governor of Carlisle, where a considerable garrison was left, and on his arrival there early in Januaiy his first care was to get the prisoners removed to Chester and Lancaster. " On the 10th of January," says Mr. Mounsey, " these unfortunate men left Carlisle. The officers were placed on horseback, their legs tied under the bellies of their horses, their arms jjinioned so as to afford them barely the power of holding the bridle, each horse was tied to the tail of the one before it. The privates were on foot — each man's arms tied — the whole marching two abreast, fastened to a rope hanging between them. The governor, Hamilton, went first, his horse led by a dragoon with a drawn sword ; then followed the officers, and dragoons in the rear. The foot were preceded by two dragoons, one of whom held the rope to which the prisoners were attached ; the whole were followed by a body of dragoons." ^ Governor Hamilton, Colonel Townley, and many of the ofiicers of Prince Charles's amiy, were conveyed to London, where they were tried, convicted, and suffered death, the heads of some of them being placed upon Temple Bar, and those of others being sent to Carlisle, and placed over the gates there. In the latter end of July, a number of the prisoners were brought back to Cai-hsle, where the commission for their trial was opened on the 1 •2th of August. The total number to be tried amounted to SSi. It having been found that it would be next to impossible for the judges and juries to try this large number, it was, therefore, arranged that, with a few exceptions, the prisoners should have the option of drawing lots for selection of one out of every twenty to stand trial, the nineteen remaining to submit to ti-anspoi-tation. These terms were accepted by several, and in this manner the number to be tried was reduced to 127, against whom bills of indictment ■were found by the grand jury. On the 9th of September the prisoners were arraigned, and of the large number just mentioned, very few were acquitted. Eighty-six were sentenced to death, of whom thirty-one were exe- cuted, two died in prison, and the remainder, with the exception of a few who received their pardon, were transported. At the conclusion of the assizes the 1 Authentic account of the occnpation of Carlisle in 1T45, p. 175. judges ordered the release of those who had been arrested by order of the Duke of Cumberland. " On Saturday, the 18th October," says the authority above quoted, " Thomas Coppock, Major Macdonald, Kinlock Moidart, Francis Buchanan, Brand, Hender- son, Roper, Cameron, and Macnaughton, were taken from Carlisle to GaUows Hill to suffer the execution of their sentence. . . . Coppock is said to have read a sermon to the rest, and when finished to have flung it to the crowd, but the sheriff' seized it After the bodies had hung a few minutes they were cut down, ripped open, the bowels burnt, and the heads severed from their bodies. The remains of Coppock and tw^o others were buried on the spot; the bodies of the rest were interred in the churchyard at Carlisle. The heads of Major Macdonald and Kinloch Moidart were placed on the Scotch-gate, where they remained many years. A Highland regiment, in after times, passing through Carlisle, is said to have been halted on the Sands, without the gate, in order to avoid marching under these revolting mementos."- On the 21st of October six more suffered death at Brampton, and three days later five others were executed at Pe^kh. On the 16th of November, Sir Archibald Primrose and two others suffered the extreme penalty of the law at Gal- lows Hill. Such was the closing scene of the rebellion of 1745, as far as Carlisle was concerned, but for some years afterwards a garrison was maintained there, and " watch and ward " duly and regularly kept. The nu- merous prisoners who had escaped the fate of their companions in arms were detained in captivity tdl late in the spring of 1747, when they were sent off to the various seaports for transportation. From this period the historical proceedings of Carlisle settled down into mere annals, possessing little interest to engage the attention. From the recital of deeds of war and violence, let us turn now to the records of peaceful industry, and see what progress the city of Carlisle has made since the energies of its inhabitants have been directed to such pursuits. The situation of the city affords every facility for the encouragement of manufactui-es, though we do not find any mention made of them previous to the year 1747, the year of the deportation of the pri- soners of Prince Charles's aimy, except that of a manu- factory of fustians, which was established here about the period of the Restoration. In 1747 some Ham- burgh merchants commenced the manufacture of wol- leus in the city, but after a few years, on the death of the leading partner, the concern was mismanaged, and soon ceased to exist. A few years afterwards an - Authentic account, pp. 203, 264. 96 CUMBERLAND WARD. cstablishraeut for ruakiug coarse liueiis, and a new ■wooUeu manufactory were commenced, but with the Uke unsuccessful results. Shortly after this a public brewery is first mentioned. The cotton trade was subsequently introduced, and with the best results ; the number of hands required for this branch of trade and the linen manufacture, which was equally successful, adding con- siderably to the population of the city and neighbour- hood. Kor did the good effect produced end here. Many of the old houses were taken down and rebuilt in a superior style, the means of access to the city much improved, and greater facilities for traffic given to every one. In 1758 several hundred French pri- soners were brought to Carlisle on parole, and by their expenditure in the city added considerably to its trade. We are also told that they introduced a more expensive style of living amongst the inhabitants. According to Jefferson, there were at this time only four private car- riages in the city ; and he gives the names of their owners : he adds that " about this period chaises were first kept at the inns." In 1701 calico printing was introduced by a Newcastle company, Scott, Laird, & Co. Cotton-srinning soon followed, and has continued to extend to our own days, affording employment to great numbers of the inhabitants. Iron and brass founding, and other branches of industry, were subsequently commenced. Power-looms have been recently intro- duced on a large scale. There are numerous cotton- mills ; and one belonging to the Messrs. Dixon, by its extent, rivals some of the largest in Lancashire. The woollen manufacture is again " looking up," two large factories having lately been estabUshed. Carlisle is likewise noted for its extensive biscuit manufactories. One firm has obtained the royal appointment, and exports its goods to all parts of the world. Steady increase in material prosperity has been the charac- teristic of the city for a lengthened period ; and the last ten years have witnessed great and impor- tant changes for the better in the old border city, — changes and improvements which are well described in the subjoined extract from the " Carhsle Examiner " of Tuesday, August 11th, 1857, and which, without further preface, we present to the reader : — " There are few towns in England that have made more rapid strides in social and material advancement than Carlisle. In a single decade the face of the town has been almost entirely changed. Ten years ago green pastures basked in the sunshine and waved in the wind where now a city's population has taken up its abode, or pursues its ceaseless industry. Streets of houses, of massive form, with all the convenionces that modern art can suggest — with little gardens decked in the lovely hues of summer — have sprung up as residences for the merchant, the manufacturer, and the tradesman. Streets of houses, too, have been erected for the work- ing man, in lieu of dingy alleys, creaking garrets, and fever-stricken yai-ds. The clerk, the mechanic, and even the labourer, has bad his dwelling improved, and now enjoys the freshness of the fields and the recreation derived from the cultivation of his little plot of garden ground. " Ten years ago, this very summer, was begun one of the grandest works of which Carlisle can boast. Then was formed that deep basin on the top of Gallows Hill which has since continued to pour its cleansing streams of water, received from a source a mile distant, into the heart of our city, and thence pursuing its di- rected course to the farthest extremity. Before the lapse of many mouths the same city wUl have raised a stately monument to the memory of the man who, amongst other important public works, took the foremost part in providing for his fellow-townsmen one of the greatest benefits to a community — an abundant supply of water. But that supply, ample as it then was to meet all the wauts of the town, became insufficient for the increased demand ; and only during last spring, exactly ten years after the water works company commenced their ope- rations, it was found necessary to lay down pipes of enlarged diameter to carry a more dense body of water through the streets. " Ten years ago another great boon was conferred upon the city by the establishment of the gas works. Previous to that time the town was indifferently hghted by a private company carrying on business at the head of Brown's Row — on the ground now spanned by the railway arch at the south eud of the Citadel Station. To say nothing of the reduction that was made in the rates charged upon consumers of gas, the faciUties offered by the corporation, when the old company broke up and the new works were built under their direction, tho benefits to private consumers and to the town especially, were most important. Since then the town has been well lighted on the v^Lole; shopkeepers can afford to place flaming lights in their windows, and nearly the whole of the cottage property that has since been built is provided with gas. The dim light of a halfpenny candle is superseded by a flame that illumines the whole house, and at a much cheaper rate. The gas works themselves possess all the modern improve- ments for the manufacture of this indispensable element — certainly one of the most useful and impor- tant which the civilisation of the nineteenth century has produced. Originally provided with two large tanks, the town was well supplied with gas; but, as in THE CITY 01' CARLISLE. 97 the instance of the water works, these were in time found to be insufficient to meet the growing con- sumption, and two or three years ago, it was found necessary to lay down another gasometer capable of holding double the quantity of each of the others. But in addition to the benefit accruing from the forma- tion of the gas works by the Corporation, their erection gave an impetus to the building trade in their imme- diate locality, and laid the foundation of one of the greatest improvements that has yet taken place in the citj-. This is the Nelson Bridge. Previous to the establishment of the gas house, the only means of communication between the east and west sides of the town — that is, between Botchergate, English-street, Scotch-street and Castle-street, and Caldewgate, was over the old bridge that spanned the Caldew. This route is to a great extent still adopted by the inhabitants residing in the last-named sti-eets, and to them, therefore, the opening of a new road was not of much importance. But to the residents of Botchergate, and the extensive population that surround it, the inconvenience attending so circuitous a journey was very great. The opening out a new and direct road from Botchergate to Caldewgate was a desideratum the want of which had been long felt, and was at length obtained by the erection of the Nelson Bridge. The road once formed, houses rapidly sprung into existence, and the new town on the western bank of the Caldew may be said to owe its origin to the building of the bridge. This, however, was not all that the gas works produced Three streets now radiate from the tall chimney that was called into being, where before there was nothing but the green fields and a dank reservoir to supply the gaol with water. At the end of one of these is the celebrated and extensive marble works of the Messrs. Nelson; opposite stands the equally well-known hattery of the Messrs. Carrick, which formerly stood on the other side of the dam course; in another of the streets may be heard the constant whir of the steam saw as it divides the huge tree or the slim plauk in one of the largest saw mills in the country; and on the other side of the same street is another of those wonderful biscuit manufac- tories the fame of whose productions has been wafted across the sea to the ends of the earth. Two thorough- fares diverge from the west end of Nelson Bridge. One leads to the little colony founded by the Cumberland Land Society on the Denton Holme property, and to the extensive and celebrated beetling works of Messrs. Ferguson Brothers; while it also furnishes a con- venient route to the Cemetery. The other road is along Chai-lotte-street, at the end of which it is intersected by Milboume-street, and the old road to the Holme Head. Junction-street, opened out by the Messrs. Dixon, gives a direct communication with the Dalston road and Caldewgate. In this locality several manufactories have been erected. During the period mentioned Messrs. Dixon have laid alongside their great factory a commodious building in which several hundred power- looms give work to a large number of our population. Within a few yards from the place Messrs. Joseph Eobinson and Co. have built a large flour mill and biscuit manufactory ; and close adjoining is another tall chimney and a power-loom shed belonging to Messrs. John Ferguson and Co. In the immediate vicinity the enterprising firm of Messrs. Nelson have erected works of the most novel character — being no other than a manufactory where, by means of steam and the pro.ximity of a railway, thousands of perforated bricks are daily finished and transported to their destination. " Ten years ago, or a little more, two railways and a canal had their termini at CarHsle. The one railroad carried our citizens and their merchandise to the banks of coally Tyne ; the other had only recently opened a dii-ect route to Maryport and the west. The canal brought the bales of cotton for our manufacturers from Liverpool, our timber from Quebec and the Baltic, and transported the coals that came along the Newcastle line to Scotland and Ireland. Then was opened out one of the most prosperous railways in the kingdom, — the Lancaster and Carlisle — an " impracticable " scheme in its day, but its success has since behed the prophecy — and there rolled along it the trafiic of tlie south. Next came another gigantic undertaking — the Cale- donian Railway, which forded the Esk and gave a direct communication to the heart of Scotland. A direct hue was then laid down from London to Edinburgh and Glasgow ; into which ran the traffic of the north-west part of the island. The Glasgow and South- Western Kailway nest opened up another exten- sive district, and brought traffic to Carhsle, which thus found itself the centre of a net-work of railways. With the railways came improvements — one of the first of which was the clearing away of extensive blocks of old property. The Citadel Station reared its beautiful form amid the surrounding waste, and is now the radius of four hues of railway, and one of the most attractive features in the town. The canal has now been converted into a railway, and a new line diverges from it to the Solway. " But to take five years from our decade, and what do we find ? ^Miat has been pulled down and what built up? Some of the finest streets of houses have risen into shape and form since then ; a first-class hotel stands on the site of a carrier's warehouse; CUMBERLAND WARD. gentlemen's handsome villas overlook the Eden from over- hanging banks ; nianufactories have been enlarged or rebuilt, and one of the most extensive locomotive building premises in the Idngdom is now in course of erection at St. Nicholas, by the Lancaster and Carlisle EaUway Company ; chapels have been extended and repaired ; handsome shops greet the eye at almost every step ; one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the couutiy hiis been restored, if not to its original dimensions, at least to its pristine beauty ; schools have been erected, and the benevolence of a single gentlemen has suflSced to provide a home for the out- casts and wanderers amongst our juvenile population; the voluntaiy exertions of our citizens and neighbours will ere long result in the providing of a suitable Dis- pensary for the relief of the sick poor ; the clay will this yeai- be moulded for the bricks to he used in the erection of an asylum for the most helpless of God's creatures ; and already has been laid down an extensive system of sewerage, which daily sweeps away, in its underground course, the filth of thirty thousand people. " Over and above these multifarious works, which religion, philantlu'opy, or the requirements of commerce have called forth for the comfort and accommodation, the protection and occupation of the living, the last ■want of man here helow has also been provided for. The grave has been closed that used to spread the seeds of disease among our population, and has been re-opened on a sunny hill far away from the din and bustle of the town. At Spital Moor, a mile and a half from the centre of the city, stands the Cemetery, which public decency demanded for the repose of the dead, as well as for the protection of the living. To this place hun- dreds of our citizens — some bound by the tenderest ties and others led by admiration of the lovely land- scape that is unfolded to the view — take their summer evening ramble, rendered more pleasant and refreshing by the presence of rustic seats which the Burial Board have provided in different parts of the ground, and more easy of access by the footpath which has recently been made. Here are the graves of the unforgotten dead — for they are all new, and unfarrowed with age. It is a temple of Nature, but the footprints of Art are already traceable. It has none of that soft melancholy which Ungers about older cemeteries — it is not shaded by trees, nor are its walks embowered by the majestic ivy or the enduring yew ; but its broad expanse is turned to the open sky, and the graves are visited by the gentle sunshine and the refreshing shower. The warble of birds is not heard in the overhanging boughs ; but the lark carols in the clear atmosphere above. There is not the mournful urn, or the storied monu- ment, or the sculptured bust, that arrest the eye ip other burial-grounds ; but there is hardly a grave where a shrub or a flower is not planted to note that the hand of affection has been there. Simple headstones there are too — differing in design, but having a sameness in the general effect, from their uniform size ; and there are four which may more appropriately be called monu- ments. One is a tapering pedestal surmounted by a cross, around which a wreath of evergreens is twined, to the memory of a loved child. Another, and the only one which has been erected some time, is dedi- cated to a man of genius — whose bones rest not there, but whose memory lives in his works, — the late Peter Nicholson ; a third is a square pillai', with pointed summit, bearing the name and age of a worthy country gentleman, — the late Mr. John Dalton, of Cummers- dale ; and the fourth, a newly-erected structure of filial affection, is one of the neatest Httle monuments in this locality. It is of Gothic style, and has a well-pro- portioned base, with a slender pillar and a cross. The monument is in a prominent position — being at one corner of the Roman Catholic ground — and has a strikuig effect. Of the two chapels and the curator's lodge it is sufficient to mention their general neat ap- pearance ; the continued absence of a chapel for the Roman Catholics ; and take our departure from the place where 'Nature provides for all one common grave, The last retreat of the dislxessed and brave.' Such is a resume of the chief improvements that have been effected within the boundaries of our ancient city during a period of only ten years.'' THE CATHEDH.\L. Twelve centuries have well nigh elapsed smce St- Cuthbert, quitting his beloved Lindisfarne, visited Car- lisle, and founded there a centre of Christian worship and teaching. Previous, however, to his time, the city possessed religious institutions, and there is little doubt that as soon as Christianity was planted in this part of the country, which was about the year 400, there was a church erected in CarUsle ; tradition informs us that the site of this early church is that now occupied by the cathedral. During the Danish invasions, the religious edifices of our Saxon forefathers were com- pletely destroyed, and lay in ruins for four centuries ; nor were they restored till Saxon and Dane were alike brought under the yoke of the Norman conquerors of England. The foundation of Cai-lisle cathedral is generally ascribed to Eufus, the second Nonnoii king ; but his THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 99 gjpmature death prevented him from completing the structure, a work reserved for his brother Henry I., who dedicated it to the Blessed Virgin in 1101, and attached to it a college of secular priests. Thirty years later Henry founded the bishopric ; and, with the authority of the Pope, changed the secular priests into a college of regular monks of the order of St. Augustine. " We have very little means of knowing," says the present Bishop of London, " what was the extent of the buildings of the old NoiTQan estabhsh- ment. As to the form of the church, we can make a tolerably good conjecture. It was budt of a white stone, now grey with age. Its nave, with arches such as we find in St. Maiy's parish church, and windows such as are in the corner between the transept and the nave, must have extended into the site of Mr. Gipp's house, nearly the whole way to Paternoster-row. The north transept, now entirely gone, must have a good deal resembled the south transept now standing ; and the choir probably was very short, not reaching so far as the present robing-room of the minor canons, that is, about the length of the present stalls. The con- ventual buildings would of course be on the south side, though what they were it is impossible to conjecture ; for, as far as I am informed, not a single vestige of them now remains, — cloisters, chapter-house, fratery, and prior's residence having been almost all rebuilt, it would appear, from the very foundation, in the fol- lowing age."' In the reign of Henry III. it was thought expedient to rebuild and enlarge the choir. The style of archi- tecture visible in the walls of the north and south aisles, with their windows and arcades, shows them to have been erected about the year 1250 ; and from the same data we may infer the erection of St. Catherine's Chapel, as well as the arch and pillar leading into the north transept, and the window over the door in the south transept, to have taken place at the same period. How far the work of enlargement proceeded we have no means of knowing ; but a fire which broke out in 1292, and is said to have consumed many houses in the city, and greatly damaged the cathedral, no doubt interfered materially with the rebuilding of the church, and prevented for some time the completion of the works. During the reign of Edward I. the new north transept was finished, and the choir raised to the height of the triforium : the east end also was probably carried up to the same height. The four small windows at the eastern end of the aisles are also specimens of the style of architecture prevalent at this period. 1 An Historical Sketch of Carlisle Cathedral. BJ the Rev. A. C. Tail, D.C.L., Dean of CarUsle. Loudon and Carlisle, 1855. From the time of the first Edward we hear no more of the cathedral of Carlisle till the episcopacy of Bishop Kirby, who, to secure a fund by means of which the rebuilding of the church might be proceeded with, ap- propriated for a time for this purpose the revenues of the churches of Sowerby and Addiagham. But it was not till 1352 that the work prospered. Bishop Welton and his successor, Bishop Appleby, made every exer- tion to have the church finished, granting indulgences of forty days, upon the usual conditions, to those who should render aid ; and we are told that the king, the principal families of the neighbourhood, and the pubhc treasury of Carlisle, contributed to the work. To this period belong the fine east window, with its nine lights ; the graceful triforium ; the beautiful carving of the great arches, with their rich tracery of leaves and flowers, and the decorated windows of the clerestory; all of which mark the most beautiful period of Gothic architecture. In 1401 Bishop Strickland commenced the rebuilding of the central tower, a structure not at all in hai-mony with the splendour of the choir ; and shortly afterwards some alterations were made in the north transept. Little more was done to the building till near the beginning of the sixteenth century, when Thomas Gondibour was elected prior, who at once set about ornamenting the details of the building, and restoring whatever was decayed. The beautiful tabernacle work of the stalls is usually ascribed to him, but by some they are considered to be older. The grotesque paint- ings, at the back of the stalls, appear to have been executed under his direction ; and the screens of St. Catherine's chapel, and others of similar workmanship, which once enclosed the centre of the choir from the stalls to the high altar, are said to have been erected by him. Dr. Tait says, " He probably inserted two very indifferently executed Perpendicular windows, one on the north, the other on the south side of the choir, for the purpose of admitting light to the part of the build- ing in which the high altar, we may suppose at that time stood. . . . And now we have come to the last prior, who was not unwilling, at the bidding of Hemy VIII. to become the first reformed dean. His initials, L. S., Lancelot Salkeld, you see on the screen, close below the pulpit to the north side, a somewhat remarkable piece of workmanship, speaking, when ex- amined minutely, of the waning taste in architectural decoration." From this time there is little to relate concerning the cathedral, and we may say it all in a few words. It suffered severely from the fanatical zeal of the first reformers, who thought they were doing a service when they were destroying the monuments which the piety 100 CUMBERLAND WAKD. of their ancestors liad raised, and wliich for so many centuries bad adorned tlie length and breadth of the land. Carlisle cathedral shared the fate of other churches ; the monumental brasses were torn from the tombs, the stained glass of its windows destroyed, and the ornaments and images completely demolished. But the most serious blow was inflicted upon it by the orders of Cromwell during the Parliamentary wars. The damage done on this occasion can never be re- paired. In contempt of the articles of capitulation, which stipulated that " no church should be defaced," more than two-thirds of the nave of the cathedral were pulled down, and the stones carried away to erect guardhouses, in different parts of the city, for the more effectual suppression of any feelings of attachment to royalty which might be supposed to linger in the breasts of the citizens. In 1745 the cathedral served as a prison to the unfortunate adherents of Prince Charles, and was much injured during the time they were detained there. The building having fallen into a very decayed state, it was found neeessaiy to have it repaired, and this was done by the dean and chapter in 17G4. On this occasion a new groined ceiling in plaster was put up, liiding completely the fine old timber roof; the fine screens which filled the spaces between the piers of the choir were removed, and others of much inferior workmansliip placed in their stead. In the year 1852 the dean and chapter made an arrangement with the Cathedral Commissioners, by which they agreed to convey to the latter the estates of the chapter, and to receive a certain fixed income, with a suitable provision for the support of the esta- blishment and the maintenance of the fabric of the cathedral. The Commissioners having caused a survey to be made by Mr. Christian, their architect, on his report determined to expend the sum of £15,000 upon the necessary repairs and improvements, including the purchase of the leasehold interests in two houses, the property of the dean and chapter, which had long been condemned by public opinion, as they concealed from view the matchless east window, and now stood in the way of the projected new entrance to the cathedral. In the autumn of 1853 the work of restoration was begun. The repair of tlic tower was the first work of the architect, and this was followed by the raising of the roof of what is left of the nave to its original height. In its perfect state the cathedral of Carlisle must have presented a noble and imposing appearance, but the wars of the Commonwealth swept away its glories, and what is now remaining gives us only an imperfect notion of what the structure was previous to the time of Cromwell. The church is at present nearly suiToun^ by lofty lime trees, and being situated on the most ele- vated site in the city, is seen from a great distance on every side. It is, like the great majority of cathedral churches, a cruciform structure, consisting of nave, transepts, choir, aisles, and central tower, and its origi- nal length was about 330 feet. The nave formerly extended 135 feet from the inter- section of the transept, but 39 are all that now remain, the other 90 feet being destroyed during the civil wars. The original nave seems to have consisted of eight bays, six of which have been destroyed ; the remaining two are in the Norman style, of a simple and massive character. The exterior of the nave is somewhat en- riched, the windows having small detached shafts inser- ted at their sides for the springing of the arches, which have the zig-zag, billet, and other usual ornaments of this style. The interior of the nave is massive iu its character. The main arches are circular, with plain architraves springing from immense piers, whose height is only fourteen feet, while their circumference is more than seventeen. Some of the capitals have the chevron and bell ornament, but others of them are plain. The fragment of the nave still standing has been galleried and pewed, and now serves as the parish church of St. Mary; the space formerly occupied by the remainder has been converted into a burial ground. The transepts, which are without aisles, are 114 feet long by '28 broad, and consist of three stories. The south transept is iu the same style as the nave, and is entered from the abbey by a richly decorated doorway, the capi- tals and arch mouldings of which are profusely decorated with foliage and figures, carved in the most beautiful manner ; a gable rises over it, terminating in a cross ; and on each side it is supported by strong buttresses, canopied and decorated with finely carved crockets. In this transept, on the eastern side, is a chapel dedicated to St. Catherine, but now used as a vestry for the choristers. This chapel was founded at an early period by John de Capella, a wealthy citizen, and endowed by him with certain rents, lands, and burgage houses. In the year 1300, a portion of its revenues being fraudu- lently retained, Bishop Appleby commanded the chaplain of St. Mary's and St. Cuthbert's to give public notice that the offenders were required to make restitution within ten days, on pain of excommunication. Its revenues, according to the King's Book, were valued at £3 2s. 8d. per annum. In this chapel is a large altar- tomb, ornamented on the sides with lai-ge quatrefoils, and supporting a figure of Bishop Barrow beneath a rich canopy, who, in his will, dated in 1429, bequeathed some 2>late to the cathedral, and £20 to a priest to sing THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 101 njasses in this chapel for the repose of his soul. The monument is well e.xecuted, and iu a tolerable state of preservation. On the western side of the south transept, about a foot from the ground, there is a Scandinavian Eunic inscription, which was discovered in 1855, soon after the recent restorations. The runes are of a slender character, and some are not over well defined. The Kev. Mr. Maughan, of Bewcastle, has suggested that the inscription might perhaps be read thus, — "Dolfin [raised] this stone iu sorrow for the soul of his son." Dr. Charlton is of opinion that the inscrip- tion is not sepulchral, but a simple whim of a workman, the signification being, " Tolflu made these marks on this stone." There is but one other Danish inscription known to exist in England — one recently discovered in London ; and as this in Carlisle is in great danger of being effaced and lost, it has been suggested that some means be taken for its protection and preservation. The screens here are ancient, and contain some curious tracery, with the initials of Prior Gondibour. In the south transept is a monument, erected by subscription, to the memory of Robert Anderson, the " Cumberland Bard," a native of this city, and of humble birth. His songs in the Cumberland dialect are truthful as well as amusing dehneations of rustic life as it still exists in this county. In the Norman part of the transept are two wells, from the presence of which it has been inferred that the cathedral served in times of pressing danger as a place of refuge as well as of devotion. The north transept, in its restored state, presents a fine exam- ple of the Early Enghsh style. The heavy Perpendicular tracery of the lai'ge window of this transept has been removed, and its place supplied by a very fine one of geometrical tracery, and with the best effect. Over this the newly-erected gable is pierced with a circular window of the same style, which has been fitted with stained glass, the gift of Mr. Scott, of Carlisle. In this transept is the altar-tomb of Prior Simon Senhouse, and in the west side of the same transept is a monumental win- dow, erected by subscription, to the memory of the late chancellor of the diocese, the Rev. Walter Fletcher. This window contains a full-length portrait of the deceased in the attitude of prayer. The choir, which is elegantly furnished for the cathe- dral service, is 138 feet in length, 72 feet in height, and 73 feet wide, inclusive of the aisles. It consists of eight bays, those at the several extremities being narrower than the rest, and the most easterly serving as a passage behind the communion table. The altar formerly stood two ai-ches from the eastern end, and, for the purpose of throwing additional light upon it, had the narrow lancet-shaped windows in the corresponding division of the aisle displaced, on either side, by one large Per- pendicular window ; it was removed one pier nearer to the east end in the middle of the last century. The general style of this part of the edifice is Early Enghsh; at its j unction with the transept the flat mouldings of the arches indicate an early period of that style, but towards the east it becomes more advanced, and the last division, with the whole of the eastern end, is in the Decorated style. " The east front," says Rickman, " contains one of the finest, if not the finest, Decorated window in the kingdom. It is considerably decayed ; but its elegance of composition and delicacy of arrange- ment, the harmony of its parts and the easy flow of its lines, rank it even higher than the celebrated west window of York Cathedral, which it also exceeds in the number of divisions." This window fills up the whole space between two uncommonly bold buttresses, which rise to the ridge of the roof, where they are terminated with fine crocketed pinnacles ; they have niches with enriched canopies, which have recently been tilled with statues. The whole of the accessories, including the shafts, mouldings, and buttresses, are very chaste and beautiful. The aisles at the east end have each a fine small window of two hghts, with rich tracery, deep mouldings, and clustered shafts. The south aisle has a low parapet supported by a range of brackets, and is flanked by two bold buttresses, which are crowned with fine pinnacles. The north aisle differs from the south, having its parapet carried higher, and partially enriched ; its buttresses have no pinnacles, and do not reach to the parapet, but they are pannelled and have enriched canopies. At the north angle is a small octagonal turret. The tower has an embattled parapet, with a small turret at its north-east angle, and previous to the Restoration had a leaden spire. This is the latest portion of the building, and appears to have been erected about three hundred years later than the nave. Between two small windows in the second floor is a niche containing an angel bearing a shield, as a pedestal for a statue, but there is nothing to show that it was ever occupied. The tower was thoroughly repahed during the recent restorations. Its height to the top of the vane is about 130 feet. The interior appearance of the choir is very beautiful, and seldom if ever fails to excite the admiration of the beholder. The heavy screens which formerly stood betwixt its clustered pillars have been taken away, and the visitor has an uninterrupted view of the entire structure, exhibiting a lengthened array of massive columns, with their high overhanging roof " stretching in aisles majestical," terminating in tlie glorious eastern 102 CUMBEELAND WARD. window, with its slender mullions and delicate flowing traceiy. It is in very truth — " A dim and mighty minster of old time ! A temple shadowy with remembraaces Of the majestic pastl'' The main arches of the choir are equilaterally pointed, and have a deep architrave consisting of various mould- ings, enriched with the dog-tooth ornament; and finished with a dripstone, whose extremities are supported hy a variety of heads. These arches spring from fiue clustered piers of eight shafts, whose capitals are orna- mented with foliage and grotesque figures, illustrative of domestic and agricultural pursuits, such as sowing, reaping, gi-ape gathering, and the like. At the base of the piers on the south side, the foundations of the original Norman piers of the old choir may yet be traced. The arches of the clerestory have a pierced parapet ornamented with quatrefoils. Its windows, in each compartment, consist of three pointed arches, the centre one being carried higher than the other two ; they are Early Enghsh windows, but are filled with tracery of the succeeding style, which nearly corre- sponds in every alternate group. The two Decorated windows of the clerestory in the most easterly bay of the chou: are very curious, especially that on the north side, the arch of which, instead of being pointed, is elliptical, and its tracery is continued half way down the uprights. The Early Enghsh windows of the aisles are strangely diversified in their style, form, and arrangement ; and not less so in the manner in which their workmanship is e-icecuted. The form which pre- vails in the north aisle is that of four long lancet arches of equal height, with rich mouldings. Of these the two middle ones have been pierced for windows. They liave detached shafts, with bands and capitals between them, and the space between their heads is occu- pied by a quatrefoil panel. But there are singidar variations from this form, and there are also some Decorated and Perpendicular insertions. Under these windows, against the wall, on both sides of the church, is a range of elegant small arches, with cinqucfoil heads, and a series of deep and rich mouldings running round the cinquefoil, and springing from shafts which are generally detached, but towards the east end they form an integral part of the wall. Two crowned heads occur in the south-east comer of the building. The lath and plaster ceiling of the choir of 1764 has been taken down, and the ancient and unique wagon-shaped ceiling, with its azure and gold decora- tions is once more displayed. A manuscript of the arms which originally were carved on the bosses is preserved in the Heralds* College ; among them occur those of the ancient families of Percy, ^^'arren, Mon- tagu, Mortimer, Clifford, Greystoke, Beauchamp, Dacre, Musgrave, Fitz Hugh, Neville, Vaux, Curwen, Lam- plugh, and Lowther, all of whom, there is little doubt, were benefactors of the cathedral. Under the great east window, a little to the south, is am ancient piscina, which was long built up, but has recently been restored. The stalls in the choir are composed of fiue tabernacle work, supplied by Bishop Strickland, about the year 1401. They are ornamented with numerous niches, formerly filled with small statues, surmounted by cano- pies terminated with enriched pinnacles. The images were removed about 1649. The scats of the stalls arc so constructed as to turn up, when they form small shelving seats called misereres, and exhibit knots of very curious carving, in a great variety of grotesque designs. The door by which the choir is entered from the north aisle, is a fine, and the only remaining, ex- ample of the original screens of the choir. The upper part of it is filled with rich tracery, and on the lower panels are exhibited several profiles and other carved work skilfully executed. This screen bears the initials of Lancelot Salkeld, the last prior and first dean of Carlisle. The bishop's throne is a much more recent production ; it is formed of oak, and though not splendid, is in keeping with the wainscotted screens which run round the more easterly part of the choir, and which wei'e erected from a design furnished by Lord Camelford, nephew to Bishop Lyttleton, who formerly held the see. The whole design and appearance of the choir may be pronounced elegant; but that which contributes most to this effect is the great east window before alluded to. This beautiful structure, allowed to be the finest in the kingdom, consists of an equilateral pointed arch, divided by slender mullions into nine lights ; the upper portion being filled with delicate flowing tracery, remarkable for its elegance and graceful arrangement. This traceiy is filled with stained glass ; but owing to its great elevation and the smallness of the figures, the subject depicted cannot be distinctly seen from below. It is thus described by Mr. Purday : — " The subject is the favourite one for such situations — the Last Resur- rection and Judgment. In the uppermost compartment is a sitting figure of our Saviour surrounded by angels bearing the crown of thorns and other emblems of the Passion. Lower down are angels sounding trumpets, while on every side the dead are seen pushing aside the sculptured gravestone and rising from the tomb. Among them may be distinguished popes, kings, bishops, priests, Ac. Two central compartments are occupied by the procession of the redeemed to the New Jerusalem. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 103 The towers and gates of the city appear to the right guarded by angels ; and the river of life flows under its walls. In the lowest central compartment is a repre- sentation of the punishment of the lost." It is under- stood that there is in the hands of the dean and chapter a fund, raised by subscription, sufficient to substitute stained glass of the richest character for the present plain glazing of the lower part of this splendid window, and the whole of the large window iu the northern transept. When these improvements have been effected, the venerable cathedral church of Carlisle will hear a comparison with many of the more highly favoui-ed minsters of England, and may be looked up to with no small feelings of pride by the natives of the ancient border city. A powerful organ has been placed over the north entrance to the choir, and has added mate- rially to the solemnity and impressiveness of the daily services. Among the ancient tombs in the choir and aisles of the cathedral, are two placed in low recesses in the wall of the north aisle, the arches of which are ornamented with very peculiar mouldings, in the form of the ragged staff. These are supposed to be the tombs of Bishop Welton, who died in 130-2, and his successor. Bishop Appleby, who died in 1395. Under the next window, in a low arched recess, is a slab, supporting the figure of a bishop, now much decayed. This is said to be the monument of Bishop Stricldand, who died in U19. Speaking of this tomb, the Messrs. Lysons say, " The sides of the slab supporting the effigies are ornamented with foliage, like that of Bishop Kilkenny, in Ely Cathedral. It is much more ancient than 1419, and from the style of it, was probably designed for some bishop who died before the middle of the thirteenth century." This tomb, with the two just mentioned, having been opened, and the foliage removed, since 1808, the period at which Lysons visited Carlisle, it is impossible now to judge from its style of the accuracy of the deduction then made, but if it be correct, the tomb in question may probably be that of Bishop Halton, who died in 1324, and is said to have been buried in the north aisle of the cathedral. About half-way up the north aisle is the last resting place of Archdeacon Paley ; a small brass plate let into the stone, and a smaU marble slab upon the wall, hearing his name, and the date of his decease, are all that mark the place of his inter- ment. In the south aisle, near the vestry, in an arched recess, is the tomb of Sir John Skelton, Knight. In the middle of the choir, between the pews, there is a fine example of the monumental brasses so much in use during the fourteenth century. It marks the last rest- ing place of Bishop Bell, who, after presidmg over the see for eighteen years, resumed the monastic habit, and died iu the year 1490. The monument consists of a large slab of blue marble, on which is the representation in brass of a bishop, in his pontifical vestments, with a book in his right hand, and a crosier in his left. This tomb has been well preserved, but since the removal of the litany desk, which formerly stood at its head, it has been much worn, in consequence of persons walking over it, and, unless some means be taken for its preser- vation, the inscription upon it will soon become ille- gible.' A small monumental brass plate, in memory of Bishop Henry Piobinson, is preserved. He was a native of tliis city, and died of the plague in 1061. It is a finely engraved copy from the original plate in the chapel of Queen's College, Oxford, and was presented to this cathedral by his brother. It is finely engraved ; the bishop is represented in his episcopal robes, kneel- ing, with one hand supporting a crosier, the other holds a lighted candle, and a cord, to which three dogs are attached, who appear guarding sheepfolds from the attack of wolves. Below the candle is a group of figures, bearing implements of agriculture and peaceful industry ; near their feet is a woK playing with a lamb, and various warlike instraments scattered and broken. Each part is illustrated with appropriate Greek and Latin sentences. At the bottom of the plate is a Latin inscription, to this effect. "To Henry Robinson, of Carlisle, D.D., a most careful provost of Queen's College, Oxon, and afterwards a most watchful bishop of this church for eighteen years, who, on the 13th calend of July, in the year from the delivery of the Virgin, 1610, and of his age, 64, devoutly resigned his spirit unto the Lord. Bernard Robinson, his brother and hen-, set up this memorial as a testimony of his love.-" This plate was discovered in taking down the hangings and ornaments of the high altar, in the middle of the last century ; it is now fixed iu the wall of the north aisle of the choir. In the choii- towai-ds the altar, is a flat stone, inscribed to the memory of the munificent Bishop Smith, who died in 1702 ; at the head of the stone is a shield charged with his armorial bearings, and followed by a Latin inscription. Against a pillar, be- hind the pulpit, is a beautiful monument, to the memory of Bishop Law — above the tablet is the figure of Rehgion resting upon the mitre, and supported by the cross. Bishops Ralph de Irton, who died in 1292: John de Kirkby, who died in 1352 ; John Best, who died in 1570; John Mey, who died in 1597, and Eichai'd 1 .\n engraving of this tomb \vill be found in Hutchinson's Cum- berland, and iu Cough's Sepulcliral Monuments. 2 This plate is engrnved in Jefferson's " History of Carlisle," p. 180. 104 CUMBERLAND WARD. Senhouse, who died in 16-26, were all buried in the cathedral, but tbcir tombs cannot now be identified. There are in the transepts and other parts interesting monuments or tablets to the memory of the following : Bishop Fleming, who died in 1747 ; his son, Arclulea- con Fleming, who died in 1742 ; Thomas Wilson, D.D., fourteen years dean of the cathedral, who died in 1778; Sir J. D. A. Gilpin, Knt., inspector of hospitals and an alderman of this city, who died in 1834, and Hugh James, M.D., who died in 1517. On the screens behind the stalls of the choir are a number of cmuous paintings, of great age, and rude execution, said to be the gift of Prior Gondibour. They occupy the spaces between several of the arches. Three of them are the legends of the saints, Anthony, Cuth- bert, and Augustine ; as related by the early chroniclers. A fourth is intended to represent the twelve apostles. The rhymes describing the different stages of the life of each saint as pictured below, are as rude as the paintings, and are said to have been written by Prior Senhouse. These paintings were long concealed by a covering of whitewash, which was removed by Dean Percy. Among the relics of antiquity yet remaining in the cathedral, the most remarkable is the cornu eburneum, or ivory horn, which is said to have been given to the priory in the twelfth century, instead of a written docu- ment, as evidence of certain grants made by Henry I. It was originally mounted with some precious metal, the whole of which has now disappeared. There are also two copes, used in the cathedral before the Re- formation. One of these is of embroidered silk, with a broad border of needlework, in which are representations of several saints of the church ; the other is of crimson velvet, richly wrought with gold, and having a gold border. These copes are in a decayed state, and have been deprived of some of the ornaments with which they were fonnerly enriched. In addition to St. Catherine's Chapel above alluded to, the cathedral comprised two chantries, those of St. Pioch and St. Cross, the former of which was founded in the year 1422, by Bishop Whelpdale, who, at his death, left the sum of £200 for the purpose of founding and endowing a chantry for the celebration of masses for the repose of the souls of Sir Thomas Skellory, Knt., and Mr. John Glaston, two of his intimate friends, who were buried in the cathedral. Nicolson and Burn con- sider it probable that this was the chantry of St. Roch ; its revenues were valued at £2 14s. per annum. There was another chantry, that of St. Cross, but we possess no record of the date at which, or the person by whom it was founded. It was granted by Edward VI., with all messuages, lands, tenements, profits, and heredita- ments belonging thereto, valued at £3 19s. per annum, to Henry Tanner and Thomas Bucher. ANN.4I.S OF THE BISHOPS. On the foundation of the see, in 1133, Athelwald, a Saxon, and prior of St. Mary's, was appointed the first bishop. He appears to have been also prior of St. Oswald's, at Nostell, in Yorkshire, and the king's con- fessor ; and in 1136 his name occurs as a witness to a charter of King Stephen. The churches of Wetheral, Warwick, and other places, having been granted to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, Athelwald confirmed this grant, stipulating, however, that the abbot and convent should take care that the cure of souls in those places should not be neglected, but that a decent main- tenance should be allowed to the clergymen whom they were bound to provide. This prelate died in 1155. Bernard, the second bishop, was consecrated in 1157, and in 1109 officiated at the dedication of the church of St. Maiy Magdalen, at Lanercost. He died in 1180, and the see remained vacant for thirty-two years. W'e find, however, that King John granted it in 1200 to the Archbishop of Selavonia, who was succeeded in the following year by Alexander de Lacy ; but the next regular bishop was Hugh de Bello Loco, abbot of Batele, in Sussex, who was elevated to the see in 1218. Two years later his name occurs as making grants to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, and to the monks of Wetheral. This prelate appears to have stood high in the estimation of his sovereign, Henry III., who requested the Pope to restore the rectories of Penrith, Newcastle, Cor- bridge, and Whittingham, to the see of Carlisle. He also appears as one of the sureties of Henry III. for the due performance of engagements which that monarch had entered into with the King of Scotland. This bishop died at the abbey of La Ferte, in Bur- gundy, and was succeeded by Walter Malclerk, who was consecrated in 1223, and received the temporalities of the bishopric on the 20th of October in the same year. In 1230 Henry III. granted the manor of Dalston to Walter and his suc- cessors, bishops of Carlisle. Two years later the same king, by charter, made this prelate treasurer of his exchequer, an office which the bishop retained but a short time, though he had been appointed for life. In 1234 he was instrumental in effecting the contract entered into between the king and the daughter of the Earl of Winchester, and subsequently we find his name as a witness to the great charter. In 1239 he was appointed catechist to Prince Edward, and in 1243 THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 105 was joined in commission with the Archbisliop of York and William de Cantelupe as lords-justices of the realm in the king's absence. He held the office of sheriff of Cumberland for the space of ten years. In 1246 he resigned his see, and became a Dominican friar at O.vford, where he died in 12-18. Silvester do Evordon, archdeacon of Chester, was consecrated bishop of CarUsle in 1246, on the resig- nation of Walter Malclerk, and in the following year confirmed the grants of his predecessors to the abbey of St. Mary, at York. He was afterwards made Lord High Chancellor. In 12.53 Bishop de Everdon sup- ported the Archbishop of Canterbury and others in their opposition to the king, who wished to encroach upon the liberties and privileges of the church. Two years afterwards the bishop died in consequence of a fall from his horse, his successor being Thomas Vipont, or de Veteripont, of the family of the earls of Westmoreland, who was consecrated in 1255. This bishop only held the see for a year, dying in 1256. Robert de Cheverel, or de Chauncy, called by Leland the Queen's chaplain, was the next occupant of the see, to which he was elevated in 1258. He appears to have been for some time engaged in an unhappy con- troversy with the sheriff of Cumberland, although he himself filled the office for two years. On his demise, in 1278, William de Rotherfeld, dean of York, was nominated, but he refused the proffered elevation, and the prior and convent elected Eodolph, or Ralph de Ireton, prior of Gisborne, who was consecrated in 1280. This bishop, who was of a Cumberland family, was a firm defender of all ecclesias- tical rights, nor could he be deterred from upholding those rights and privileges by any person, however high his rank or station. lu 1281 he maintained a suit against Sir Michael de Hercla, by which he recovered the manor and church of Dalston. He also strove to obtain the tithes of newly-cultivated lands within Ingle- wood Forest, which he held to have been granted to the church of CarHsle, by Henry I. " who enfeoffed the same per quoddam cornu eburneum." This suit was decided against the bishop, and the tithes were adjudged to the king, Edward I., who subsequently granted them to the prior and convent. Bishop de Ireton was called upon to take part in the various events which occurred in the country during the time he held the see of Carlisle. He was joined in commission with the Bishop of Caith- ness, to collect tenths within the Idngdom of Scotland ; and in 1291 was a confidential commissioner to the Enghsh monarch for adjusting the claims to the Scot- tish crown. He was also one of the plenipotentiaries 14 empowered to contract Prince Edward in marriage with Queen Margaret of Scotland. He died at Linstock, March the 1st, 1292, and was succeeded by John de Halton, canon of Carlisle, who was elected on the 9th of the following May. The powers granted to his predecessor seem to have been continued to Bishop de Halton, who took an active part in Scottish affairs. He was present when Baliol was adjudged the rightful claimant for the Scottish throne, in 1292, and five years afterwards witnessed Robert Bruce swear fealty to Edward at Carlisle. In 1302 Bishop Halton was ap- pointed governor of the castle of Carlisle, and had the custody of the Scottish prisoners and hostages. Three years afterwards his name occurs as one of the peti- tioners for the canonisation of Thomas de Cantelupe, bishop of Hereford ; and in 1307 we find him enter- taining the English monarch and his retinue for six days at Linstock Castle. Next year he was summoned to attend the coronation of Edward II. In 1314 he was summoned to a parliament at Westminster, but not being able to answer the summons, in consequence of Car- lisle Castle being blockaded by the Scots under Edward Bruce, he was obliged to request the rectors of Leving- ton and Brough-under-Stanemore, to appear for him, and to excuse his personal attendance on account of the position in which he was placed, and the troubles in which his diocese was involved. This prelate died in November, 1324, and William Ayremyn, canon of York was elected, but the popo appointed. John de Rosse, canon of Hereford, who, in 1339, was summoned to appear before the papal delegate, the prior of Durham, to answer charges prefeiTed against him by the prior and convent of CarUsle, for interfering with their peaceable enjoyment of several churches appropriated to them, as likewise for his seizure of their rents, which he disposed of as he thought fit. This bishop subsequently excommunicated the prior for neg- lecting to pay some tenths that were in his hands. He died at Rose, in 1332. John de Kirkeby, prior of St. Mary's, Carlisle, and the next bishop, was invested with the temporahties of his diocese by the king, on the 8th of May, 1332. This prelate, says Hutchinson, " came to his episcopacy in a most unhappy era, both in regard to the pubhc troubles and agitations in the state, and the Utigious and unhappy disposition of the clergy. He was con- tinually subject to alarms from the Scots, in conse- quence of the king of England's unfortunate expedi- tions and unsuccessful arms ; and, added to this, he had gained the hatred and contempt of that people before his advancement to the see : so that, it is said, his orduaations were held in very distant parts of the 106 CUMBERLAND WARD. kingdom, and lie was frequently out of this diocese ; and to render his life stiU more distressful, he was involved in innumerable suits with his clergy." Passing through Penrith, in the spring of 1337, he was attacked by a band of ruffians, and several of his retinue were severelj' wouuded. In the same year he was not able to raise the tenths, in consequence of most of his clergy having fled from the Scots, and was obliged to certify to the barons of the exchequer to that effect. In October the Scots burnt Rose, and devastated tlie surrounding country. In 1311 he received £-200 from the receiver of the royal funds, to pay the men whom he had in his service for the safe keeping of the western marches. Two years later he was appointed one of the commis- sioners to treat with others from Scotland, to settle and preserve peace and commerce, and in the following year was required to assist Edward BaHol, king of Scotland, who had been appointed by Edward III. captain-general of all his forces in the north. In 1348 he received instructions to convey the Princess Joan to her husband, she having been betrothed to Alphonsus, king of Castile. He died in 1352, when John de Horn- castle, prior of Carlisle, was elected, but he was set aside by the pope, and the see given to Gilbert de Wilton, in 1353. Shortly after his eleva- tion, Bishop de Wilton assembled the clergy of his dio- cese, for the purpose of obtaining a subsidy, which was at once granted, and amounted to 200 marks. He was one of the commissioners appointed by the Idng to treat for the ransom of King David of Scotland, and for the establishment of peace between the two nations. In 1359 he was joint warden of the western marches with Thomas de Lucy ; and subsequently, as one of the com- missioners, took part in the treaties which acknow- ledged Da\'id as king of Scotland, and renounced the c-laims of the English monarchs to the sovereignty of that country. As we learn from his registers, this bishop took great interest in the repair of public bridges, and the erection and adoi-nment of churches and monasteries. After a life of great usefulness, he died in 1302. Thomas de Appleby, canon of Carlisle, was the next occupant of the see, being consecrated at A^•ignon, on the 18th of June, 1301. In 1305, he, amongst other prelates, took an oath in the king's presence, at West- minster, " to keep and observe inviolably all the articles of peace lately concluded and agreed upon by his majesty and the French king." Two years afterwards, he re- ceived a joint commission with Roger de Clifford, An- thony de Lucy, and Ralph de Dacre, for the wardeuship of the western marches. In 1309, in obedience to the king's writ, the bishop ordered the rural dean of Cumberland to summon all the abbots, priors, and other reUgious and ecclesiastical persons, to array all the men capable of bearing arras, between the ages of sixteen and sixty, apprehensions being entertained of a French in- vasion; and in the same year he was again appointed to the wardeuship of the western marches, in conjunc- tion with Roger de Clifford, Thomas de Musgrave, and others. In 1373 Bishop de Appleby, with the Bishop of Durham, Edward Mortimer, Earl of March, and other noblemen, were appointed to hear and determine aU complaints and causes of action upon the borders; and they were required to see satisfaction made for in- juries done by any of the king's subjects. In 1384, during the reign of Richard II. the Bishop of CarUsle, the Bishop of Durham, the Earl of Northumberland, the Lord of Raby, and the Sub-dean of York, were ap- pointed special commissioners and ambassadors, to treat with the King of Scotland, for a truce between the two kingdoms, and for the adjusting of all differences on the borders. Eight years after this, the bishop was again appointed a commissioner, to see executed " that part of a late treaty of peace, concluded with the French king, which related to the kingdom of Scotland." This prelate died in 1395, and Wilham Strickland was chosen to succeed him, but was set aside by the pope in favour of Robert Reade, who was translated from the see of Waterford and Lismore, in Ireland, in 1376, and ob- tained the royal warrant for all the mesne profits of the see, from the demise of Bishop de Appleby. He was translated to Cbichester in the course of the same year, and was succeeded by Thomas Merkes, who was invested with the tem- porahties of his see by Richard II., and received a provision from the pope in 1397. From the will of the unfortunate Richard we learn that Bishop Merkes was one of the five prelates whom that monarch num- bered amongst his executors, and to whom he bequeathed a gold ring of the value of £20. It is a remarkable fact that the Bishop of Carlisle is the only bishop who is recorded to have taken letters of protection from Richard, and placed himself under an obligation to personally attend the king towards the coast of Ireland. On the removal of Richard, Bishop Merkes remained faithful to the fallen monarch, and in the first parliament coura- geously showed his attachment by speaking in favour of the deposed king. For this he was accused of high treason in January, 1400, and was soon after deprived of his see, and committed a prisoner to the Tower. On the 23rd of the following June, the bishop was placed in the custody of the Abbot of Westminster, in whose community he had formerly been a monk, and on THE CITY OF CAELISLE. lor November 28th received the lung's pardon, and ■was sot at liberty. In consequence of his "notable poverty," be was allowed to receive from the pope, who had con- ferred upon him the title of Bishop of Samothrace, ecclesiastical benefices to the value of ^00 marks, which the king increased to 300. Ho held the vicarage of Sturminster, in Dorsetshire, and, in 1404, the Abbot of Westminster bestowed upon him the rectory of Todenham, in Gloucestershire. It is probable he died in the latter place about the end of the year 1409. William Strickland was the nest prelate appointed to the see of Carhsle. He was elected in 1399, conse- crated at Cawood by the Archbishop of York, August 24th, 1400, and received the temporalities of his see on the 15th of the following November. Bishop Strick- land was a devoted adherent of Henry IV., from whom be received a commission to arrest all those persons in the diocese of Carlisle " who should assert that Eichard II. was still alive, and abiding in the parts of Scotland." In 1406, the Bishop of Carlisle was one of the prelates that signed and sealed the act of succes- sion, by which the crowns of England and France were entailed upon the lung's four sons. The erection of the tower and belfry of the cathedral is ascribed to this pre- late, as is also the tabernacle work in the choir, and the covering of the spire on the tower with lead. Ho built the tower at Rose Castle, called Strickland's tower, and constructed a watercourse from the river Petteril through the town of Penrith. A chautry in the church of St. Andrew, in the same town, is likewise of his foun- dation. He died on the 30th of August, 1419, after an episcopacy of twenty years, and was buried in his cathedral. His successor was Roger Whelpdale, provost of Queen's College, Oxford, who was consecrated by the Bishop of London in 1490, and had restitution of the temporahties on the 12th of March, in the following year. This prelate, who was a native of the county, having been born at or near Grey- stoke, did not long enjoy his elevation to the episcopate, for he died in London on the 4th of Februaiy, 1422, and by his will ordered his] body to be interred in St. Paul's Church, in that city, leaving];i200 for the foun- dation and endowment of a chantry in his cathedral of Carlisle. Bishop Whelpdale was a learned man, and well versed in the literature of the period in which he lived. His works ai-e a book with the title Be invocatc Deo, and some treatises on logic and mathematics. WilHam Barrow, bishop of Bangor, was the next occu- pant of the see of Carhsle, to which he was translated on the death of Bishop Whelpdale, and received the temporalities on January the 16th, 1423. la 1439 his name occurs among the bishops who protested against Cardinal Beaufort appearing at Windsor, on Saint George's day, as prelate of the order of the garter, in right of his bishopric of Winchester. In the July fol- lowing he bore a joint commission with the earls of Northumberland and Salisbury, on behalf of the King of England, for the truce concluded with Scotland, at Hawden Stank. He died at Rose Castle, the seat of the bishops of Carlisle, on September 4th, 1429, and was buried in the chapel of St. Catherine in his cathe- dral church. His successor was Marmaduke Lumley, archdeacon of Northumberland, who was raised to the see in 1430, and received resti- tution of the temporalities on April the 15th, 1431. In 1433 he was hcensed to attend the Council of Basil, the eighteenth general council, and two years later was appointed one of the commissioners to treat with the Scots. During the episcopacy of Bishop Lumley, the diocese suffered so severely from the ravages of the Scots, that the bishop could not obtain wherewithal to support the dignity of his office, and in order to enable him to do this, an application was made to the throne, in consequence of which a royal grant was issued in June, 1441, by which the churches of Caldbeck and Rothbury were annexed to the see for ever. These appropriations, however, did not take place, and the two churches are to this day rectorial. Bishop Lumley, who was of the noble family of Lumley, in the county of Durham, filled the offices of lord treasurer, lord chancellor, and chancellor of Cambridge University. He was translated to Lincoln in 1449, when Nicholas Close, archdeacon of Colchester, and one of the king's chaplains, was appointed bishop, receiving restitution of the temporalities on the 14th of March in the following year. In 1451, he, with the Bishop of Durham and others, was commissioned to superintend "the conservators of the truce and wardens of the marches, and to punish their neghgence and irregulari- ties." In 1462 he was one of a commission appointed to receive the homage of James, earl of Douglas, and all other Scottish noblemen who should apply for that pur- pose. These are all the notices of this prelate that occur during the time that he filled the see of Carhsle. He was translated to Lichfield and Coventry in 1452, and was succeeded by WiUiam Percy, a son of the Earl of Northumberiand, and a prebendary of York, Lincoln, and Salisbury, who was invested with the temporahties of his bishopric on the 24th of October, 1452, and. though he held the see for ten years, nothing is on record respecting him, except that he was chancellor of Cambridge. He died in 1462. 108 CUMBERLAND WARD. John Kingscotes, archdeacoa of Gloucester, was elected by the chapter bishop of Carlisle on the de- mise of Bishop Percy, but he only held the see one year, dying on the IGth December, 1013, when Richard Scrope, rector of Fen-Ditton, Cambridge- shire, succeeded to the vacant mitre. Nothing what- ever is recorded of this prelate, except the dates of his elevation and decease ; the latter event occurring on the 16th of May, UGS ; his successor was Edward Story, chancellor of Cambridge, who being elected by the chapter and approved of by the pope, had restitution of the temporalities on September 1st, 1468. Three years later we find his name among those of the prelates and chief of the nobility who took an oath of fealty to Edward V., then Prince of Wales ; and shortly afterwards, he, with the Bishop of Durham, the earl of Northumberland, and others, was appointed a commissioner to treat with those of Scotland at Alnwick, and the year following at Newcastle ; and in 1-173 at either of these places or any other place. In 1474 he again appears as a commissioner in the treaty of marriage be- tween the Prince of Scotland and the Princess Cicely, daughter of Edward IV. Three years later he was translated to Chichester, where he died in 1503. Pilchard Bell, prior of Durham, was the next prelate, being elevated to the see in 1478, shortly after the translation of Bishop Story. While prior of Durham, he was several times in the commissions of Edward IV., on treaty with the king of Scots. All that we learn of him during his episcopacy is, that he built the tower at Rose Castle, which still bears his name. He died in 1496, and was interred in the middle of the choir of his cathedral, where a monumental brass still recalls his memory, and requests a prayer for the repose of liis soul. His successor, William Sever, abbot of St. Mary's, at York, was shortly afterwards elected, and received restitution of the temporalities of his see on the 11th of December, in the same year, when he also received a hcense to hold his abbacy in commendam, and was included in a commis- sion with the Bishop of Durham and others, to treat about the marriage of the king's daughter, JMargaret, with James IV. of Scotland. The following year his name occurs as one of the royal plenipotentiaries in a general treaty between the English and Scottish mou- archs. In 1409 Bishop Sever's services were again brought into requisition, and ho was appointed one of the conservators of the truce, which had just been agreed upon between the kings of England and Scot- land. Three years later hewas translated to Durham, and Roger Leybourn, archdeacon and chancellor of Dur- ham appointed bis successor. This prelate was conse- crated on the 1st of September, 1 503, and received resti- tution of the temporalities on the 15th of the following October. He was a native of Westmoreland, and was educated at Cambridge, where he became master of Pembroke Hall. Little is known of him, and even the year of his demise is uncertain. His will, in which he expresses a wish to be buried in St. James's Hospital, near Charing Cross, London, bears date July 17th, 1507 ; but, whether he died in that year or the follow- ing one we have no means of ascertaining. John Penny, bishop of Bangor, was translated to the see of Carlisle by a papal rescript, bearing date, Rome, September 21st, 1508; and on the 23rd of the fol- lowing January he made his promise of canonical obe- dience to his metropolitan, the Archbishop of York. He held the see for twelve years, dying in 1520, and the following year John Kite, archbishop of Armagh, in Ireland, was translated to the vacant bishopric, when he relinquished the primacy of Ireland, but was appointed archbishop of Thebes, in Greece. Cardinal Wolsey and he appear to have been intimate friends ; and it is to the influence of the former that Bishop Kite is said to owe the alterations in his preferments. Jefferson infoims us that the fees of the translation of this prelate, " with the commendams for Carlisle and his other benefices, amounted to 1890 ducats. But the cardinal success- fully pleaded for the remission of 270 ducats." Bishop Kite, in 1594, was appointed by Henry VIII. as one of his commissioners to meet those of the King of Scot- land, concerning a cessation of hostilities ; and two years later, he, in conjunction with Ralph, Earl of Westmoreland, and others, was named as a plenipoten- tiary to conclude a treaty of peace with the Scottish monarch. In 1529 a document having been signed by several of the English bishops, approving of the reason- ableness of the scruples of Henry VIH. in the matter of his marriage with Catharine of Ai-ragon, and advising that the case should be laid before the Holy See for speedy settlement. Bishop Kite's name appears among the subscribers. In the following year he was one of the four bishops, who, with Cardinal Wolsey, Arch- bishop Warham, and the majority of the English nobility, addressed Pope Clement VII., on the question of the king's divorce. In 1530 his name again occurs in the history of the period. He appears to have been much attached to the old religion, and zealoiisly assisted his metropolitan, the Archbishop of York, in opposing the innovations proposed by Cranmer, in the convocation of the clergy. During his occupation of the see he made several additions to the episcopal residence at Rose, and otherwise improved it. He died in Loudon, on the THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 109 19th of June, 1537, and wds buried in Stepney Church. He was succeeded the same year by Robert Aldrich, provost of Eton College, and canon of Windsor. This prelate, who was a native of Burn- ham, in Buckinghamshire, received his early education at Eton, and in 1507 became scholar of King's College, Cambridge, where he took the degree of M.A. In 1529 he became B.D. at O.iiford, and was subsequently ■ advanced to the dignity of D.D. Among his contem- poraries he appears to have been eminent as an orator and poet; and, in conjunction with Cranmer and others, wrote the work commonly called the " Bishop's Book." He performed the duties of chaplain and almoner to Lady Jane Seymour, queen of Henry VIII. and mother of Edward VI. Although he held this office, Bishop Aldrich was, nevertheless, a firm supporter of the tenets of the old religion, and, in 1510, was consulted by the king on the teaching of the church with respect to the seven sacraments. When Cranmer strove to propagate the new doctrines, he met with the most determined opposition from the Bishop of Carlisle, who clung to the ancient faith in its entirety during the whole of his life. He died in 1555, and Owen Oglethorpe, dean of Windsor, was appointed his successor, in October, 1556 ; but the papal confir- mation did not ai-rive until the 28th of the following January. This prelate was bom at Newton Kyme, near Tadcaster, in Yorkshire, and becoming a member of Magdalen College, Oxford, was made proctor of that university in 1531. Four years afterwards, having attained the degree of B.D., ho was chosen president of his college, and was elected vice-chancellor in 1551. He was shortly afterwards appointed first canon and then dean of Windsor, and in the first year of the reign of Queen Mary became secretary of the Order of the Garter. In 1554 a pubhc disputation on the mass was held at O.^ford, at which Cranmer, Eidley, and Latimer stated their opinions, and were opposed by several members of the ancient faith, among whom Bishop Oglethorpe stands conspicuous. Two years after this he was raised to the see of Carlisle, as above stated. When Queen Elizabeth ascended the throne, in 1558, she at once proceeded to reintroduce Protestantism, and to put down the religion which Queen Mary had restored. One of the first indications of this change was her com- mand to the Bishop of Carhsle not to elevate at mass the consecrated host ; a command with which the bishop refused compUance, adding, at the same time, " My life is the queen's, but my conscience is my own.'' Sus- pecting the queen's intentions from this prohibition, the English bishops publicly declared that they could not, in conscience, administer the coronation oath, and refused, therefore, to assist at the forthcoming ceremony. This announcement greatly embarrassed the court ; but at length Bishop Oglethorpe was induced to separate himself from his colleagues, and the coronation was per- formed. The services of the Bishop of Carhsle were, however, soon forgotten ; for refusing, in common with the other members of the English episcopacy, with the exception of the Bishop of Llandaff, to take the oath of supremacy, he was deprived of his see in 1559, when it was offered to Bernard Gilpin, rector of Houghton-le- Spriug, in the county of Durham, but by him decUned. John Best, prebendary of WeUs, and the first Protes- tant bishop, was consecrated on the 2nd of March, 15G0. He was a native of Yorkshire, and received his education at 0.\ford, but embracing the principles of the Pieformers, was obhged to live retired during the reign of JMary. In 15G4 he received a commission from Elizabeth, by which he was empowered to arm himself and his depen- dents ; a measure deemed necessary in consequence of the unsettled and turbulent state of the diocese. Nothing further is recorded of this prelate, whom Fuller speaks of as "a grave and learned divine." He died on the 22nd of May, 1570, and was buried in Carlisle Cathe- dral. His successor was Pdchard Barnes, who came to the see in the same year. This prelate was born at Warrington, in Lanca- shire, and entering Brazennose College, Oxford, received there his degree of M.A. in 1556. He became B.D. at Cambridge, and, in 1561, was made chancellor and prebendaiy of York, and subsequently styled Bishop of Nottingham. AVheu raised to the see of Carhsle he was allowed to retain in commendam his stall and dignities at York, for one year after his consecration. In 1577 he was translated to Durham, and John Mey, prcbendaiy of Ely, was appointed to the vacant bishopric, having previously been master of Catherine Hall, Cambridge, and vice-chancellor of that university, for which he appears to have procured a new body of statutes. He held the see of Carlisle for twenty years, and fell a victim to the plague in 1597, being buried in his cathedral church on the evening of the same day on which he died. Hemy Robinson, provost of Queen's College, O-xford, was the next bishop. He was a native of Carlisle, where he was born in the year 1556. At an early age he entered the University of Oxford, and making great proficiency in his studies, soon became a fellow, attain- ing a high character as a preacher. In his twentieth year, having just taken his master's degree, he was chosen principal of Edmund Hall, and in 1581 was unanimously elected provost of Queen's College, an office which he held for eighteen years, during which no CUMBERLAND WARD. time the college enjoyed a high degree of prosperity. He was also chaplain to Archbishop Griudall. On the 27th of May, 1598, be was chosen to fill the see of Carlisle, was consecrated on the a3rd of the following July, and in the next year named one of the royal com- missioners for ecclesiastical causes. From the records of the exchequer we learn that, in 1013 Bishop Robin- son filed a bill in that court against George Denton, of Cardew Hall, who had refused all suit to his lordship's court, and having obtained a decree in his favour, se- cured thereby the rights and privileges of the see of Carlisle. This prelate died, it is supposed, of the plague, at Eosc Castle, on the l!)th of June, 1616, and was interred the same night in his cathedral chm-ch, where a mortuary brass, on the wall of the north aisle of the choir, still perpetuates his memory. Bishop Eobinson's character as a scholar stood high amongst his contemporaries. He took part in the conferences held at Hampton Court, and is said to have been held in great estimation by Queen Elizabeth. His succes- sor was Eobert Snowdon, prebendary of Southwell, who was consecrated on November 21th, 1616, in York Minstei-, by Archbishop Matthews. He only held the see for a little more than four years, dying in London, in May, 1021. Of the incidents of his episcopate we have no- thing recorded. In the following September, Richard Milbourne, bishop of St. David's, was trans- lated to Carlisle, which he held tiU 1621, when he died, leaving a bequest for the endowment of a school and the foundation of an hospital. This prelate was born at Utterbank, in Gilslaud. Previous to his promotion to the see of St. David's, he had been respectively vicar of Sevenoaks, in Kent, and dean of Rochester. Richard Senhouse, dean of Gloucester, the next bishop, was of an old Cumbrian family, the Senhouses of Nether Hall, ou whom he reflected the greatest credit by his talents and abilities. Having entered as a stu- dent in Trinity College, Cambridge, he shortly after- wards removed to St. John's, where he gained a fellow- ship, and took his degree of D.D., in 1022. He served as chaplain to the Earl of Bedford, Prince Charles, and subsequently to James I., the latter of whom gave him the deanery of Gloucester. He had the reputation of a great preacher, and was styled the " Cambridge Chrysostom." lie was killed by a fall from his horse, ou the Cth of May, 1026, and was interred in Carlisle Cathedral. The Dean of Carlisle, Francis White, was his successor, being consecrated bishop CD the 3rd of the following December. He how- ever, only continued at Carlisle till the nth of February, 1028, when he was translated to Norwich, and Barnabas Potter, provost of Queen's College, Oxford, appointed bishop. He was consecrated in London, on the 15th of March, 1028. This prelate was born at Kendal, or, as Atkinson says, in Winster Chapelry, in 1577, of poor but respectable parents. He was educa- ted at Queen's College, Oxford, where he took the degree of D.D. in 1015, and the following year was elected pro- vost, an office which he held for about ten years. He was chaplain to the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles I., by whom he was much esteemed. Bishop Potter died at his lodgings in Covent Garden, in January, 1042, the fourteenth year of his episcopate, and was buried in St. Paul's Church, Covent Garden, where the monument erected to his memory, with the sacred edifice, was destroyed by fire in 1795. James Usher, archbishop of Armagh, was the next occupant of the see. " This great advocate of what has been invidiously termed ' moderate episcopacy,' was born in Dublin, on the 4th of January, 1580, and he became one of the earliest students of Trinity College, in that city. He early distinguished himself in the Roman Catholic controversy, and gaining thus the favour of James I., he was, in 1620, appointed to the see of Heath, whence he was, five years later, translated to Armagh, the primatial see of all Ireland. He came to England in 1640, and the rebellion in the next year preventing his return to Ireland, he repaired to the king at O.x^ford, and as a means of subsistence was allowed to hold the see of Carlisle in commendam. He was greatly esteemed by the king, and was expressly summoned to assist him with his advice at the Treaty of Newport. Archbishop Usher produced many laborious works, written amid trouble and danger, and his learning and virtues commanded the respect of many who were the avowed enemies of his order. Thus he was allowed to hold the professorship of Lincoln's Inn after the bishop's lands had been sold, and Cromwell listened to his earnest remonstrances in favour of the despoiled clergy, who owed some alleviation of their sufferings to him. Usher found a home in the house of the countess dowager of Peterborough for several years, and he died under her roof at Reigate, March 21, 1650. His remains were honoured with a public funeral, to the cost of which Cromwell contributed £200 by letter of privy seal, April 2nd, 1650."' On the death of Arch- bishop Usher, the see was vacant foui- years. Ou the Restoration of Charles XL, in 1660 Richard Steriie, master of Jesus' College, Cambridge, was nominated to Carlisle. He was a native of Not- tinghamshire, and educated at the college just named. > Auuals of England, vol. iii. ] u, 1857. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. Ill and while there took his degree of D.D. Being do- mestic chaplain to Ai'chbishop Laud, he attended him on the scaffold at his execution, and was subsequently imprisoned, with some other heads of houses in the universities, on a charge made by Cromwell, that they had conveyed their college plate to Charles I. at York.- He was then deprived of his mastership, and obliged to retire into private life till the restoration of the regal power, when he was promoted to this see. During his episcopate he erected a chapel at Eose Castle, which, however, was taken down shortly afterwards. He was translated to York, in 1664, and was succeeded by Edward Rainbow, dean of Peterborough. Bishop Eainbow was a native of Bilton, in Lincolnshire, and entered Coi-pus Christi College, O.xford, in 1623, being then in his fifteenth year. He remained there for two years, after which he proceeded to Magdalene College, Cambridge, where he became tutor to several noble pupils, and obtained a fellowship. In 1642 he was appointed master of Magdalene, and four years after- wards received the degree of D.D. In 1650 Dr. Rain- bow was requested to sign a protestation against Charles II , then in course of signature, but having refused he was deprived of his ofBce, which be did not regain till the Restoration. In 1662 he was nominated vice- chancellor of his university, and two years later he was promoted to Carlisle. This prelate made considerable additions to the episcopal residence at Rose, rebuilt the chapel erected by his predecessor, and canied out many other improvements. He died at Rose Castle, March 3 Of his suiferings at this period we have the following account in a letter of his,wriuen from his prison in Ely House, October the 9th, 1613: — "This is now the fourteenth month of my imprisonment; nineteen weeks in the Tower, thirteen weeks in the Lord Petre's house, ten days in the ships, and seven weeks here in Ely House. The very fees and rents of these several prisons have amounted to ahove i£100, besides diet and all other charges, which have been various and excessive, as in prisons is usual. For the better enabling me to maintain myself in prison and my family at home, they have seized upon aU my means that they can lay theii- hands on. ... And all this while I have never been so much as spoken withal, or called either to give or receive an accoimt why I am here. Nor is anything laid to my charge (not so much as the general crime of my being a malignant), no, not in the warrant for my commitment. What hath been wanting in hmnan justice, hath been, 1 praise God, supplied by divine mercy. Health of body, and patience, and cheer- fulness of mind, 1 have not wanted, no, not on shipboard, where we lay, the first night, without anythmg under or over us but the bare decks and the clothes on our backs ; and after we had some of us got beds, were not able, when it rained, to lie dry in them, and when it was fair weather, were sweltered with heat, and stifled ^vith our own breaths, there being of us in that one small Ipswich coal-ship (so low built, too, that we could not walk or stand upright in it,) within one or two of three score ; whereof six knights, and eight doctors of divinity, and divers gentlemen of very good worth, that would have been sorry to have seen then- ser\'ants, nay, their dogs, no better accommodated. Yet among all that company, I do not • that I saw one sad or dejected countenance all the while; ng is God, when we are weakest." 26th, 1684, and was buried at Dalston. The next bishop was Thomas Smith, dean of Carlisle. This prelate was born at Whichall, in the parish of Asby, Westmore- land, on the 21st of December, 1614. He was edu- cated at Appleby School, and in the sixteenth year of his age was admitted into Queen's College, Oxford, where his early proficiency in his studies " gained him a singular repute in the university." After he had taken the degree of M.A. he obtained a fellowship, and soon became eminent as a tutor, most of the gentlemen of the college being committed to his care. When Charles I. resided at Oxford he was one of those who were appointed to preach before his majesty, at Christ Church, and before the parliament at St. Mary's. In consequence of the events which soon after occun-ed he removed to the north, where he remained till the Restoration, after which he took his degree of D.D., and became chaplain to Charles II. He was appointed to a prebend in Carlisle Cathedral in November, 1660, and a few months later received one of the " golden" prebends of Durham. He became dean of Cariisle in 1071, on the promotion of Dean Carleton to the see of Biistol ; and while holding this office he restored the deanery at his own expense, bestowed a communion service to the cathedral, endowed the Grammar School, made additions to the capitular libraiy, and proved him- self in every way a public benefactor. Nor were his good deeds confined to CarKsle, for Dalston, Penrith, Ap- pleby, Asby, and other places experienced his bounty. On the death of Bishop Eainbow, in 1684, Dr. Smith succeeded to the see, which he held for eight years, and died at Rose Castle on the 12th of April, 1702. He was buried in Carlisle Cathedral, where there is an inscription to his memory. William Nicholson, archdeacon and prebendaiy of Carlisle, was the next occupant of the see. He was bom at Orton, about the year 16.35, and, in 1670, was entered at Queen's College, Cambridge. In 1678, and the early part of the following year, he visited Germany and France, and on his return home was admitted a fellow of his college, having previously taken -the degree of M.A. He received a prebend in Carlisle Cathedral and the vicarage of Toi-penhow from Bishop Piainbow, in 1681, and nest year was made archdeacon. In 1702, on the demise of Bishop Smith, he was elected bishop, and was consecrated at Lambeth on the 14th of June in the same year. The first four years of his episcopate were spent by Bishop Nicholson in inspect- ing the vaiious churches, parsonage houses, glebe-lands, &c. in his diocese. In 1715 he was appointed lord high almoner by George I., and three years later was 112 CUMBERLAND WARD. translated to LondouJerry, wliicb see he held till Feb- ruary, 1720, when he was made arclibisliop of Casbel, but he died on tbe lith of tliat month, and was buried at Londonderry. This celebrated man was well versed in tbe several departments of human knowledge, but particularly in that of history, which he appears to have cultivated with the greatest assiduity and success, and to his industry and leai-ning the historians of this county are particularly indebted. In 1078, when at Leipsic, he trarslated into Latin Hook's Essay on the Motion of the ITarth from the Sun's Parallax, which was sub- sequently printed. Two years later he published an account of Denmark, Poland, Norway, and Iceland, in the first volume of the English Atlas, of which he afterwards published the second and third volumes, containing Germany. These were followed, in 1685, by a letter to the master of University College, on the Eunic inscription at Bewcastle, which was published in the philosophical transactions. No. 178, and also a letter to Sir A'S'iLliam Dugdale, concerning the font at Bridekirk. In 1096 appeared the first part of his English Historical Library, the second part was pub- lished the following year, and the third in 1090. After an interval of three years he published a similar work for Scotland, and in 17-24 one for Ireland. Between the publication of the two latter works, he produced, in 1705, his Border Laws, with an appendi.x; of charters and records. Besides these works, he wrote, in 1715, an essay to be inserted in Chamberlain's book, contain- ing the Lord's Prayer in one hundred languages ; and in 1719 the preface to the third edition of Wilkin's Leges Anglo-Saxonicre. The bishop published several sermons, and left to the capitular library at Carlisle his MS. collections for a history of the counties of Cumber- land and Westmoreland aud the diocese of Carlisle. In 1809 John Nichols, F.S.A. published in two octavo volumes. Letters on Various Subjects, Literary, Political, aud Ecclesiastical, to and from William Nicolson, D.D. Samuel Bradford, prebendary of Westminster, suc- ceeded Bishop Nicolson, in the see of Carlisle, when the latter was translated to Londonderry. This pre- late was a native of London, received his education at Bonnet College, Cambridge, and having been ad- mitted to orders, became chaplain to Bishop Compton, and tutor to the children of Archbishop Tillotson. He subsequently became rector of St. Mary-le-Bow, London, prebend of Westminster, master of Bennet College, and ultimately dean of the most honourable order of the Bath. After holding the see of Carlisle for five years he was translated to Rochester; and dying in 1731, was interred in the north aisle of Westminster Abbey. His successor was John Waugh, dean of Gloucester, a native of Appleby in Westmoreland, where he was born in 1000. He received bis early educatioi at Appleby School, and sub- sequently entered Queen's College, Oxford, where he obtained a fellowship. He was rector of St. Peter's, Conihill, London, in 1708; ten years later prebendary of Lincoln; two years afterwards dean of Gloucester; and in 1723 bishop of Carlisle. For eleveu years he governed the diocese with great zeal and ability, and with the greatest credit to himself. He died in West- minster, in 1734, and was buried in St. Peter's, Cornhill. Sir George Fleming, Bart., the next bishop, was the son of Sir Daniel Fleming, Knt., of Rydal Hall, West- moreland, where the future bishop was born, in 1067. He seems to have had his school education at Appleby, whence he was transferred to Edmund Hall, Oxford, which he entered in 1688, and having received his degree in arts, became domestic chaplain to Bishop Smith of Carlisle, by whom he was collated to the vicarage of Aspatria, aud in 1700 to a prebendal stall in the cathedral. The favour shown to Mr. Fleming by Bishop Smith was continued by that prelate's suc- cessor Bishop Nicolson, who, in 170.'), promoted the subject of this notice to the archdeaconry. He became dean in 1727, aud was raised to the see of Carlisle, in 1734. He enjoyed his elevation for thirteen years, and died at Piose Castle on July 2nd, 1747, in the eighty- first year of his age. He was interred in his cathedral church where a marble monument perpetuates his memory. His successor was Richard Osbaldiston, dean of York, who was descended from a good family at Hunmandby, in Yorkshire, and received his education at Cambridge. He held this see from 1747 till 1762, when he was translated to London, which sec he held for two years, dying in 1764. Charles Lyttleton, dean of Exeter, his successor, was the third son of Sir Thomas L3'ttleton, Bart., of Hagley Hall, in Worcestershire, at which place he was born in 1714. Having received his early education at Eton, he entered University College, Oxford, and on the completion of his studies became a member of the Middle Temple. He was in due course called to the bar, but not finding legal studies congenial to his dis- position, he returned to Oxford, and subsequently took orders. He was appointed to the rectory of Alve, in his native county, in 1742, and in 1747 became chap- lain-in-ordinary to George II. The following year he was made dean of Exeter, aud in 1702 received the bishopric of Carlisle, which he held for six years. He died in London on December 22nd, 1708, and was interred with his ancestors at Hagley. Bishop Lyttletoa THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 113 ^•as a zealous antiquarian, and was for some time pre- sident of the Antiquarian Society, to which he gave a considerable number of books and manuscripts. Edmund Law, the next bishop, was a native of Lan- casliire, being born at Cartmel in that county in 1703. He received his early education at Cavtmel and Kendal, and afterwards entered St. John's College, Cambridge, from which he removed to Christ's College, where he obtained a fellowship. In 1737 he was presented by the university to the living of Greystoke, and in 1743 was appointed archdeacon of Carlisle by Bishop Flem- ing ; and as the archdeaconry has the rectory of Salkeld annexed to it, he went to reside there in 174G. In 1754 he took the degree of D.D., and two years after- wards he was (-leoted master of Peter House, upon which he resigned his office of ai'chdeacon. About 1760 he received the appointment of head librarian of the uni- versity. He subsequently became archdeacon of Staf- fordshire, prebendary of Lichfield, and in 1767 received a prebendal stall in Durham Cathedral. He was elected bishop of Carlisle in the following year, and held the see till 1787, when he died at Rose Castle on the 14th of August, in his eighty-fourth year. He was buried in his catliedral. During his residence in Christ's Col- lege he published a translation of Archbishop King's " Essay on the Origin of Evil," with notes, and pre- pared for the press an edition of Stephen's " Thesaurus." He also formed an acquaintance with several literary celebrities, among others the learned Dr. Jortin, Dr. Taylor, the editor of Lysias and Demosthenes, and Dr. Waterton, the master of Magdalene College. In 1734 or 1735 he published an " Inquiry into the Ideas of Space, Time," &c. ; and while resident at Salkeld his " Considerations on the Theory of Reli- gion." About 1777 he edited Locke's works, which he published in three volumes quarto, with a preface and life of the author. Bishop Law devoted a great portion of his time to metaphysical studies, and is said to have held the writings of Locke in the highest esteem. "He was distinguished by a mild and tranquil dis- position, and the amenity of his manners endeared him to all who knew him. His countenance always wore the same kind and composed aspect, truly indicating the calmness and benignity of his temper." He was succeeded in the see of Carlisle by John Douglas, canon residentiary of St. Paul's, who was born at Pittenween, in Fifeshirc, and in 1736 was entered a commoner at St. Mary's Hall, O.'^ford, from which he removed, in 1738, to Baliol College. Having been appointed chaplain to the 3rd Foot Guards, he went to the continent with his regiment, and was present at the Battle of Fontenoy. He subsequently became tutor to Lord Pultenoy, with whom he travelled for some time, and, in recognition of his services, was rewarded by the Earl of Bath with considerable church preferment. He was consecrated bishop of CarUsle in 1787, having previously held the dignities of canon and dean of Windsor. In i791 he was translated to Salis- bury, and died the 18th May, 1807. Bishop Douglas held the office of chancellor of the most noble order of the garter, was a fellow of the Royal Society, a vice- president of the Antiquarian Society, and a trustee of the British Museum. The next bishop was The Hon. Edward Venables Vernon, who was ap- pointed on the translation of Bishop Douglas, at which time he was canon of Christ Church, Oxford. This prelate, the second son of George, Lord Vernon, was born on the 10th of October, 1757, educated at West- minster School, and afterwards removed to Christ Church, Oxford. He subsequently became Fellow of AU Souls' College, chaplain to the king, prebendaiy of Gloucester, and canon of Christ Church. In 1791 he was appointed to the bishopric of Carlisle, and upon inheriting the Harcourt estates, assumed the surname of Harcourt. In 1808, Bishop Harcourt was translated to York, and the see was oiTered to Dr. Thomas Zouch, prebendary of Durham, who declined to accept it, ia consequence of his advanced age and retired habits. Samuel Goodenough was elected bishop on the 26th of .January, 1808, and held the see till his death on the 14th of August, 1827. Bishop Goodenough was edu- cated at Christ Church, Oxford, when he took the degree of L.L.D. in 1772. He was appointed dean of Ro- chester in 1802, and six years later was promoted to Carlisle, as above stated. His lordship was a vice- president of the Royal and Linnean Societies, and one of the council of the first named learned body. Bishop Goodenough was the author of some papers, which were printed in the transactions of the Linnean Societ}-, and also of some sermons. The Hon. Hugh Percy, bishop of Rochester, was • translated to Carhsle in September, 1828. This prelate, the thii-d son of Algernon, fii'st earl of Beverley, was born on the 29tli of January, 1784. He entered the University of Cambridge as a member of Trinity Col- lege, and graduated M.A. in 1805, but subsequently placed his name on the boards of St. John's College. Having married a daughter of Archbishop Manners Sutton, he was by him collated, in the year 1809, to the rectories of Bishopboume and Ivychurch. He sub- sequently became, in 1811, chancellor and prebendaiy of Salisbuiy ; in 1816, a prebendary of Canterbury, and of St. Paul's; in 1823, archdeacon of Canterbury; and in 1825, dean of that cathedral chm-ch. He was con- 114 CUMBEELAND WAED. secrated bishop of Rochester in June, 1897, and trans- lated to Carlisle as above, retaining the chancellorship of Salisbury and the valuable living of Finsbury, during his episcopacy. Dr. Percy died at Rose Castle in Feb- ruary, 185G, aged 73 years, and was succeeded by The Hon. H. Montague Villiers, the present bishop. THE SEE OF CARLISLE. When the see was founded by Henry I. in ] 133, it ■was made suffragan to York, and its jurisdiction com- prised the greater part of the two counties of Cumber- land and Westmoreland, which were tal^en from the diocese of Durham, to which they had up to that time belonged. From its establishment till 1860, this diocese was the smallest in England, the whole of it being comprised in one archdeaconry, containing only 137 benefices ; but on the demise of Bishop Percy, on the 5th of February, in the year just named, it was, under the provisions of 6 and 7 William IV. c. 77, and of an order in council made in August, 1847, greatly enlarged by the creation of the new archdeaconiy of Westmoreland, abstracted from the diocese of Chester, with a view to the equalising of the two sees, and by which arrangement upwards of 1'20 benefices, comprising an area of 662,676 acres, were added to the former. The diocese of Cariisle now comprises the whole of the counties of Cumberland and Westmoreland (excepting the parish of Alston, which is within the bishopric of Durham), and Furness and Cartrael (Lonsdale North of the Sands), in the county of Lancaster. It is divided into two archdeaconries— the archdeaconry of Carlisle, comprising deaneries of Carlisle, Allerdale, Cum- beriand, and Westmoreland ; and the archdeaconry of Westmoreland, containing the deaneries of Copelaud, Furness and Cartmel, Kendal, and Kirkby Lonsdale. The see of Carlisle has given to the state one lord chancellor, two lord treasurers, and three chancellors to the University of Cambridge. We subjoin a list of the archdeaconries, deaneries, and paiishes which at present (1858) form the diocese. ' archdeaconhy of Carlisle. ' ALLERDALE. AUhallows., P.G. Aspatria, V. Bttssenthwaitc, V.C. Bolton, K. Bridekirk, E. BroughUin, Great, P.O. Bromficld, V. AUonby, P.O. Caldbeck, E. Camerton, P.C. Crosscanonby, P.C. Maryport, P.C. Crosthwaite, V. Borrowdale, P.C. Newlands, P.C. St John, Keswick, P.C. St. Jolm-in-the-Vale, P.C. Thornthwaite, P.C. Wythbum, P.C. Dearham, V. FUmby, P.C. Gilcrus, V. Holme Cultram, I'.C. St. Cuthbert, P.C. St. Paul, P.C. St. Jolin.Newton Ailosb,P.C. Ireby, P.C. Isel, V. Kirkbride, E. Plurabland, E. Torpenhow, V. Uldale, E. Westward, P.C. Wigton, V. 1>EANEIIT OF CARLISLE, Aikton, E. Arthui-et, E. Bewcastlo, E. Bowness, E. Brampton, V. Burgh by Sands, V. Carlisle, St. Mary, P.C. Holy Trinity, P.C. St. Cuthbert, P.C. Christchurcb, P.C. Upperby, P.C. ■Wreay, P.C. Castleearrock, E. Crosby-on-Eden, V. Cumrew, P.C. Cumwhitton, P.C. . Dalston, V. High Head, P.C. Denton Nether, E. Denton Over, P.C. Farlam, P.C. Grinsdale, P.C. Havton, P.C. Hesket in the Forest, P.C. Armathwaite, P.C. Irtbington, V. Kirkandrews upon-Eden, E. w. Beaumont, E. Kirkandrews-upon-Ksk, E. Kirkliampton, K. Kirklinton, E. Lauercost, P.C. Gilsland, P.C. Nichol Forest, P.C. Orton, E. Eockliffe, P.C. Scaleby, E. Sebergham, P.C. Stanwis, V. St. John, Houghton, P.C. Stapleton, E. Thursby, V. Walton, P.C. Wetheral P.C. w. WarwiL'k,P.C. St. Paul, Holm Eden, P.C Scotby, P.C. BEANKRY OP CtniBERLAND. this list E. means Eectorr, V. Vicarage, and P. C. Perpetual Castlesowerby, V. Eaughton Head, P.C. Croglin, E. Dacre, \. Edenhall, V., with 1 wathby, C. Greystoke, E. Matterdale, P.C. Wungrisdale, P.C. I'hrelkeld, P. C. Water Milloch, P.C. Hutton-in-the-Forest, E. Kirkland, V. Culgaith, P.C. Kirkoswald, V. Lazonby, V. Plumpton, P.C. Melmerbv, E. Newton Keigny, P.C. Ouseby, E. Penrith, V. Christ's Church, P.C. Eenwick, P.C. Salkeld, Great, E. Skelton, E. DEANERY or "WESTMORELASI*. Appleby, St. Lawrence, V. St. Alichael, V. Jlurton, P.C. Asby, E. Askham, V. Bampton, V. Barton, V. Martindale, P.C. Patterdale, P.C. Brough under Stauemore, V. Stanemore, P.C. Brougham, E. Clibum, E. Chfton, E. Crosby Garret, E. Crosby Eavensworth, V. Biiftou, E. Kirkby Stephen, V. Mallerstang, P.C. Soulbv, P.C. Kirkbv There, E. Milburn, P. C. Temple Sowerby, P.C. Lowther, E. Marton, Long. E. Morland, V. Bolton, P.C. Thrimby, P.C. Miisgrave, Great, E. Newbiggin, E. Ormside, E. Orton, V. Eavenstonedale, P.C. Shap, V. Mardale, P.C. Swindale, P.C. Warcop, V. AnOHDEACONKY OF WESTMOEELAND. Aldingham, E. Dendron, P.C. Cartmel FeU, P.C. Field Broughton. P.C. Flookburgh, P.C. Lindale, P.C. Staveloy, P.C. Colton, P.C. Finsthwaite, P.C. Haverthwaite, P.C. Eusland, P.C. Dalton in Funiess, V. Kirby, P.C. Eamside, P.C. Walney, P.C. Hawkshead, V. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 115 Hawkshead— Dissington, E. Brathay, P.C. Drigg, P.C. Sattenhwaite, P.C. Egremont, E. Kirkby Ireleth, V. St. John's, C. Eroughton in Furness, P.C. Gosforth, E. Seathwaite, P.C. Harrington, E. Woodland, P.C. Haile, P.C. Pennington, V. Irton, P.C. Ulverstone, P.C. Lamplngh, E. Blawith, P.C. MUlom, Holy Trinity, V. Conistone, P.C. Thwaites, P.C. Egton and Newland, P.C. Ulpha, P.C. Holy Trinity, P.C. Moresby, E. Lowick, P.C. JIuncaster, P.C. Torrer, P.C. Ponsonby, P.C. Urswick, V. Waberthwaite, E. Bardsea, P.C. Wbicham, E. Grange, P.C. Whitbeck, P.C. Whitehaven. See Bees, St. BiiSERy or KiEKBT LossDALE. Worldngton, E. Kirkbr Lonsdale, V. ^!:/°''"^' J"'^" Barbon, P.C. Chfton, P.C. Casterton, P.C. Tirbank, P.C. bea-vzet of kesdai. Hntton Eoof, P.C. Beetham, V. KiUJngton, P.C. Wilherslack, P.C. Mansergh, P.C. Burton in Kendal, T. lUddleton, P.C. Holme, P.C. Preston Patrick, P.C. DEASERT OF oopELA-vD. Grassmere, E. Ailecdon, P.C. Ambleside, P.C. Beckennet, St. Bridget, P.C. Langdale, P.C. St. John's, P.C. Hydal, P.C. Calder Bridge, P.C. Heversham, V. Bees, St., P.C. Crossthwaite, P.C. Ennerdale, P.C. Crosscrayke, P.C. Eskdale, P.C. Levens, P.C. Hensingham, P.C. Milnthorpe, P.C. Loweswater, P.C. Kendal, V. Mount Pleasant, P.C. St. George, P.C. Nether Wasdale, P.C. St. Thomas, P.C. St. James, Whitehaven, P.C. Bumeside, P.C. St. Kicholas, ditto, P.C. Crook, P.C. Trinity, ditto, P.C. Grayrigg, P.C. Wasdale Head, P.C. Helsington, P.C. Bootle, E. Hugil, or lugs, P.C. Brigham, V. Kentmere, P.C. Buttermere, P.C. Long Sleddale, P.C. Cockermouth, P.C. Natland, P.C. Embleton, P.C. New Hutton, P.C. Lorton, P.C. Selside, P.C. Mosser, P.C. Staveley, P.C. Setmurthv, P.C. Under Barrow, P.C. Wythop, P.C. Winster, P.C. Cleator, P.C. Windermere, E. Comey. E. Birthwaite, P.O. Dean, E. Troutbeck, P.C. The patronage of the bishop consists of the right of presentation to the archdeaconries of the diocese, the four canonries in the cathedral, and the following thirty-eight benefices : — Allhallows, P.C, Cumberiand ^£80 Appleby, St Slichael, Y., Westmoreland . . . 173 Applethwaite, P.C, Westmoreland 120 Asby West, C. {Line), Lincohi S4 Aspatria, V., Cumberland 240 Biomfield, V., Cumberland 270 Caldbeck, E., Cumberhnd 436 Chellaston, V. {Lich.), Derby 80 Clibom, R., Westmoreland 18S Clifton, R., Westmoreland 1-50 Crosby on-Eden, V., Cumberland 90 Crosthwaite, V., Cumberland 430 Dalston, v., Cumberland 283 Denton Nether, E., Cumberland XlOO Gilcrux, v., Cumberland lUO Homcastle, V. (Line), Lincoln (il2 Lazonby, V., Cumberland ;..,-. 1, ls'^3 67 62 Dec. 1.1- ■ ,: : ' i--i 92 88 Dec. 1, 1 C8 64 Dec..-..! S8 50 Dec. 4. i 7 72 67 Dec.:). , ., . -.- r,i 51 Dec. ],] . ' : :< 76 70 Dec. 1.1--. :. 1 .. 1. :-.i 66 64 Dec. 1, Iv . • ; ! 1 :l 119 119« Dec.l.l-.l !■ i ! ■; .'i3 48 Dec.], I-:.'. 1 1- .1 ;. 14 Dec. 1, ! , , . I , : ;i 26 23 Dec. 1. 1- 1 : i 1 , L " ,'i •■il 47 Dec. 1, i-;.-.,.., ii,,. 1. 1- ..; 61 50 Dec. 1, IS.ifi, to Dec. 1, l-:!7 94 86 Dec. J, 18.37, to Dec. 1, 1838 270 265 Dec. 1, 1838, to Dec. 1, 1839 61 55 Dec. 1, ls30,toDec. 1,1«10 1.59 150 Dec. 1, ]«|0, f< T)rv. 1. 1^11 192 169 Dec. 1, 1-41. 1,, |1 r. 1, 1^1-2 1.56 153 Dec. I, iM;. 1., ]:,:]. 1-1:; 86 Dec. 1, IS!.;. 1. ll.r. 1,1-U 25 23 Dec. 1, 1,M4, I„ Dee. 1, IM.', 43 25 Dec. 1, 181.J, to Dec. 1, IMC 40 23 Dec. 1, ]8!6,toDec. 1,1M7 190 174 Dec. J, 1817, to Dec. 1,18.18 61 31 Dec. 1, 18i8, to Dec. 1, l-sifl 78 19 Dec. 1,1849, to Dec. 1,1850 9 6 Dec. I, 1850, to Dec. 1, 1851 13 7 Dec. 1, 1851, to Dec. 1, ia')2 16 g Dec. 1, 1852, to Dec. 1, 1803 «9 53 Dec. l,lS.-,3, toDec. 1, 1S04 .02 36 Dee. 1, IS.-il, to Dec. 1. l.S.'iS 40 23 Dee. 1. 1 "<.•..',, to Dec. 1,1 HOG 63 23 Dec. 1, IV.O, loDec. 1, 1.S.J7 108 55 • It appears by the report for that year that epidemic typhns prevailed at Warwick Bridge during the vintcr of 1830, and tliat only 6.5 of these 119 cases were from Carlisle. Officees — 1657-8. Peesident. — The Et. Hon. the Earl of Lonsdale. Vice-Pkesidents. — The Hon. and Et. Kev. the Lord Bishop of Carlisle; the Kt. Hon. Sir J. R. G. Graham, Bart., M.P. ; W. N. Hodgson, Esq., M.P. ; the Mayor of CarUsle ; the Verj- Rev. the Dean of Carlisle. Treasubek.— Mr. John Norman. CoKMiTTEE.— E. Cowen, Esq. ; Mr. H. Dobinson ; Eev. C. G. V. Harcourt; G. H. Head, Esq.; W. N. Hodgson, Esq., M.P. ; P. H. Howard, Esq. ; Geo. Mounsey, Esq. ; John Nanson, Esq. ; G. Relph, Esq. ; John Slater, Esq. ; William Stordy, Esq. ; Mr. Waldie. Secketap.v.— Mr. H. J. Halton. Physicians.— Thomas Barnes, M.D., F.R.S.E.; M. J. Eae, M.D.; John Steel, M.D. ScKaEO.N--AroTHECAEY. — sir. EUeray Armstrong. LssrECioE.— David Little. SIatkon.— Mrs. Little. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. The Athenffium, Losvther-street, was erected in 1840, from designs furnished by Messrs. Williams of Liver- pool, at a cost of about £0,500, raised in £5 shares, but it has since become the property of G. H. Head, Esq., who purchased it for £'4, 000. This building has supplied a want long experienced in Carlisle, which, previous to its erection, possessed no room sufficiently large for general purposes. The external appearance is very striking ; the facade is of white stone from the Prudhoe quarries, and is in what may be called the Roman style of arcliitecture. The centre part is com- posed of four massive pilasters, with Corinthian capitals, and windows in the intermediate spaces. The cornices are surmounted by an open balustrade, with sunk panels, and the angles are ornamented with massive pilasters. The interior is divided, on the first floor, into entrance hall and staircase, committee room, library, museum, and lecture room ; second floor, gal- lery over the library, with spacious concert room, fitted up in an appropriate manner, and well suited for the purposes for which it was erected. The County Assize Courts are situated at the head of English-street, on the site of the ancient citadel, at the southern entrance to the city, adjoining the gaol. They were erected in 1810-11, from the design of R. Smirke, jun., R.A., pursuant to an act of parliament which was passed for the purpose of " enabhng his majesty to grant the citadel and the walls of the city of Carlisle, etc., to the justices of the peace for the county of Cumberland, for building courts of justice for the said county, &c." The courts are built in the Gothic castellated style, and two projecting coiTidors, give the whole the semblance of a fortified gateway, and recal to mind the ancient citadel. They present elegant fronts THK CITY OF CARLISLE. 129 of polished freestone of a reddish colour, and are sur- rounded with cast iron railings. The Crown Court occupies the western tower, and is connected with the adjoining gaol by an underground passage, through which the prisoners are conveyed to the dock. In the entrance hall is a fine statue of the late Major Aghonby, for many years chairman of the Quarter Sessions of the county. Over the judge's seat is a fine bust of George III. by Rossi, on each side of which are statues of Justice and Mercy. The eastern tower on the oppo- site side of the street serves as the Nisi Prius Court, and, like the Crown Court, is finished and fitted up in a very handsome and appropriate manner. Attached to this court are suitable rooms for the grand jury, counsel, witnesses, &c., with the usual offices. In the centre of the street, between the two courts, is a fine statue of the late Earl of Lonsdale. The County Gaol and House of Correction stands upon the spot formerly occupied by the Dominican Convent, near what was, in bygone days, the English gate, and is a fine structure, in the Gothic style, con- sisting of a centre and two wings, surmounted by an embattled parapet. It was completed in 1827, at a cost of £42,534, inclusive of the purchase of some land. The interim- ai-rangements consist of a governor's house, from which si.^ wings radiate, affording accommodation to thirteen classes of prisoners, with separate areas, divided by walls and lofty iron rails. The prison con- tains room for 150 prisoners, with means of extension for a much larger number. The whole is enclosed with a wall of red freestone. This edifice was begun from the designs of William Nixon, Esq., of Carlisle, but he dying during the progress of the work, the completion of the structure was entrusted to C. Hodgson, Esq., who added several improvements to the original plan. During the progress of the building several Roman and other antiquities were discovered. The office of governor or gaoler is at present held by Mr. Redin, whose salary is £305 per annum. The chaplain is appointed by the magistrates, at a salary of £125 ; he is not allowed to engage in any parochial duty, and is required to perform divine service in the chapel twice and to preach every Sunday, and on Christmas-day and Good Friday ; to read prayers daily, and to attend on prisoners under sentence of death, unless in such cases where prisoners, not belonging to the Church of England, desire to be attended by a minister of their own religion. The Rev. John F. Simpson is the pre- sent chaplain. A surgeon is appointed by the magi- strates, with a yeariy salary of £70, and an allowance for medicine at prime cost. Besides these, the principal officers, there are a matron, a schoolmaster, six turn- keys, and other subordinate assistants. For the year ending 30th September, 1857, the number of prisoners received into the gaol was 470. The number of crimi- nals was 89 less, and debtors 29 more, than those received in the preceding year. The greatest number in custody, at any time, was 102; the lowest 59, and the daily average 75. The number of County Court debtors has much increased of late, being now nearly oue-fifth of the number received. In the workroom, the prisoners manufactured 063 brush mats, 272 Samot mats, 672* yards of matting, and 2372 brushes, from which a profit was derived of £86 19s. BJd. From the chaplain's report for the year mentioned above we learn that the total number of criminals committed was 375 ; and by comparing this number with those of 1855 and 1856, it appears there is a diminution of 89 in favour of this year over the last, and of 48 over the preceding one. As suggesting a reason for the unusual increase of 1856, the chaplain found that while in 1857 the com- mittals upon military charges were 6, they amounted in 1856 to 47, and in 1 855 to 10. If the military offences bo deducted, and they cannot fairly be reckoned among the crimes of the county, the numbers would stand thus— 1855, 407; 1856,417; 1857, 369— showing the real decrease in the criminal committals. The number of debtors continues rapidly on the increase. In 1855 it was 58, in 1856, 72 ; and in 1857, 101 ; confirming the conjecture — thrown out in a former report — that an increase might be anticipated from the introduction of tlie alteration in the County Court Act, by which the cost of the conveyance of debtors to gaol, after the first commitment, was transferred from the plaintiff's ac- count to that of the counties. The behaviour of the prisoners, with two or three exceptions, was satisfactory, and their conduct in school and the classes for religious instruction met with the chaplain's entire approbation, and the report concluded by his tendering thanks to a few- magistrates and friends, through whose kind liberality a small organ had been procured. Their services in chapel being now conducted with a simplicity and order second to none in the kingdom. The surgeon reported that the general state of health of the prisoners during the year was good. No death occurred, and of the 363 cases of indisposition, but two were of sufficient im- portance to render removal to the Infirmary requisite. A girl of unsound mind was committed to the prison, who was afterwards removed to a lunatic asylum. The Guild Hall, Green Market, is a quaint old building, in which the meetings of the guilds or in- corporated companies of the city are held. The Town Hall is an ancient structure, situated in the Market Place, but without architectural pretensions. 130 CUMBERLAND WARD. The ground floor consists of shops, held upon a peculiar tenure, called cullery tenure, one equal to freehold, and this circumstance prevents being effected in the build- ing those alterations and improvements which the con- venience of the public demands. The hall is entered by a double flight of steps. Above the mayor's seat are four fine old paintings, three of which are portraits of William and Mary, and Charles, the first Earl of Carlisle of the Howard family. In the passage leading to the magistrates' office stands the ancient citi/ chest, which is formed of oak, strengthened by thick ribs of iron, and secured by five massive jjadlocks. The edifice is surmounted by a cupola, containing a clock with four dials, one of which is illuminated. Previous to the erection of the Court Houses, the assizes for Cumber- laud were held in this building, and it was here that the devoted adherents of the Stuarts were arraigned after the rebellion of 1745. The Carlisle Library and Newsroom, situated at the junction of English and Devonshire-streets, is a very elegant modern structure of white freestone, exhibiting a fine example of the Decorated style. The south-west front consists of a gabled centre, flanked by two wings with embattled parapets, and containing a doorway with flowered mouldings and an enriched triangular canopy ; above the door is a large window of four hghts, ha\-ing its head filled with good flowing tracery. The elevation in Devonshire-street is more extended. It contains in the centre a bay window, all the lights of which have crocketed canopies; the buttresses are particulai-ly light and elegant, and are crowned with enriched pinnacles. In various parts of the exterior there is some good carving, and the ornaments discover considerable luxu- riance of design and sharpness of execution. On the ground floor of the building, which has beneath a range of cellarage, is the Newsroom, and other offices. On the first floor is the Carlisle Library, having a separate entrance from Devonshire-street, which is elegantly fur- nished in a style corresponding somewhat to that of the building. The structure was completed in 1831, from designs by Eickman and Hutchinson, and the cost of erection was defrayed by shares of £50 each. The building is the property of a company. The Police Ofllce for the city of Carlisle is on the West Walls. The police force of the city was established in the year 1829, and has been increased from time to time as found necessary ; one chief constable, three ser- geants, and twenty-five constables at present constitute the force, for which the corporation obtained the govern- ment grant last year. In addition to their other duties, they have charge of the fire engines of the city. We annex tbe cost of the police establishment for each of the last tenyears— 1848, £1,176 19s. 6d.; 1849, £1,184 4s.; 1850, £1,186 8s. lid.; 1851, £1,154 9s. lOd.; 1852, £1,167 7s. 2d.; 1853, £1,185 7s. 8d.; 1854, £1,294 Is. 5d.; 1855, £1.325 Is. 9d.; 1850, £1,424 12s. 4d.; 1857, £1,814 14s. 4d. The rateable value of the pro- perty in the city in the years 1848 and 1857 was respectively £45,493 10s. 2d., and £00,908 7s. 8d. LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC IKSTITCTIONS, NEWSPAPERS, ETC. The Carhsle Library was established in 1708, but for many years after its formation the number of its sup- porters was very limited, and consequently its sphere of usefulness was much restricted. In 1804, however, measures were adopted by which the institution was placed upon a broader basis, and this change bringing a greater number of subscribers, the institution began to flourish, and has since continued in a very satisfac- tory state. The subscription list includes the names of nearly all the leading families of the city and neighbour- hood, and even some from the more distant parts of the county. The institution possesses about 10,000 volumes in the various departments of literature. The govern- ment is vested in a committee of thirteen subscribers, chosen yearly. The number of members at present is 80, who pay a subscription of one guinea each per annum. The Church of England Religious and Literaiy Asso- ciation, established in the Athenseum, Lowther-street, "consists, as its name imports, of members of the Church of England, and was designed to provide instruction and agreeable recreation for such of the operative and industrious classes of that commuuion as might, without such a resource, have become connected with institutions in which opinions are tolerated, if not openly encouraged, calculated to corrupt aud mislead those whose education may not have sufficiently prodded them with means to counteract the subtle poisons, or the open assaults of infidelity." It is well supported by the higher classes of the community, and possesses a good Ubrary, con- sisting chiefly of donations from persons who feel an in- terest in its success. The newsroom is well supplied with the metropolitan, provincial, and local newspapers. The present number of members is 100. Lectures are frequently delivered on subjects of general interest, and are usually well attended. The Mechanics' Institution, Fisher-street, was first founded in 1824, but not meeting with adequate sup- port, was closed in 1831. Two years afterwards it was re-opened, and has since maintained its place among the institutions of Carlisle. It possesses a good reading room and newsroom, with a lecture hall, and the THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 131 members have now tlie privilege of access to a well- selected library of 4074 volumes, which is rapidly iu- creasing. The number of members is 520. The Union Newsroom was opened to the share- holders and subscribers in 1831. It occupies the gi-ound of the same building as the Carlisle Library, in Devonshire-street, and is supported by subscribers, who each pay two guineas a year. The Young Men's Chrislian Association, Fisher- street, was established in 185 G, and is based upon the principles of the parent society in London. This insti- tution possesses a good reading room and libraiy, and is at present in a very flourishing condition. " To young men separated from their friends, it offers a comfortable and convenient place of resort, where they may enjoy Christian communion, and the sympathy and friendship of those who, like themselves, are engaged in the battle of life." The Bishop of Carlisle is president of the association, and the dean is one of its most active sup- porters. One of the most interesting and promising features connected with the institutions of Carlisle has yet to be mentioned. This is the existence of a number of reading rooms, libraries, and schools, which are etclu- sively under the management of working men. It is a fundamental rule of these societies that no man shall exert an influence by holding office unless he be one dependent upon weekly wages for support. It is also a rule, that any member capable of getting and doing work, shall be expelled if he leave his contribution for a month unpaid ; but in the manly spirit which has guided the whole management of these institutions, it is also a law that any member that is out of work, through real inability to obtain it, or to do it, shall be entitled to continue in the enjoyment of the privileges without payment and without responsibility. There is no one who has taken a deeper interest in the progress of working men's reading rooms than Dr. Elliot, of this city, whom Lord Brougham has well designated the '■ worthy successor of Dr. Birbeck in these good works." " In April, 1848," says a writer in Dickens' Household Words, "when everyone was daily listening for the great tidings which that period of strange excitement was continually furnishing — in April, 1848, a few poor men, most of them hand-loom weavers, clubbed their wits together for the purpose of getting a weekly newspaper. Obviously it was found requisite that they should also club their pennies. The result was, that witliin the iirst week after the suggestion had been made, fifty persons had come forward as the subscribers of a weekly penny, and a school-room had been lent to them, whereiu to meet and read their papers. These men were all of the same class ; they had originated their idea, and they were themselves managing its execution. Companions multiplied about them ; there was formed quite a prosperous little society of men contributing their weekly pennies, and it was resolved, therefore, to attempt the formation of a permanent reading room, and a committee was appointed to draw up a code of rules. The working men's reading room in John-street, Botchergate, became thus one of the institutions of Carlisle, and flourished for a few months; then news became less interesting, trade also was bad, members fell off, funds decUued, and the experiment would have been abandoned but for the judicious and well-timed assistance of Dr. EUiott, and other members of the middle class. These aided the efforts of the working men to. help themselves, with advice, and cash, and books ; their aid was fairly given, fairly taken, no abandonment of independence on the part of the men being asked or offered. This is what working men can do ; and there is no duke who can be made, by virtue of his title, more noble than the laboui-er who thus strives in his own behalf. He need not mind the good old gentleman who informs him that he ought to touch his hat and be respectful to his betters. The good old j gentleman who has let the world outrun him, and made I little effort to keep pace therewith, might much more ] properly uncover the head to him. The best minds claim him as their kindred, and the help of others ever presses upon him who helps himself. Two or three men, however poor, if they will have faith in the force of a right heart and a stout will may gather to their council other poor mechanics like themselves ; and there is no town in which, according to its size, one or a dozen true mechanics' institutions may not rise to occupy the place which Dr. Birkbeck's institutes were meant to fill, but which they have insensibly vacated." The following is a list of the working men's reading rooms, and the years in which they were established : — 1S16. Duke-street Adult School and Reading Room, Shaddon- gate. No. of vols. 519, No. of members 90. 1847. John-street Working Men's Reading Room, Caldewgate. No. of vols. 1001), No. of members 150. 18i8. Lord-sU-eet Working Men's Reading Room, Botchergate. No. of vols. 700, No. of members 250. 1853. Parham Beck Adult School and Reading Room. No. of vols. 300, No. of members 10. lS5i. Caldewgate Adult School and Reading Room, Brewery Row. No. of vols. 200, No. ot members 108. j 1851. Trinity Buildings Reading Room. No. of vols. 177, No. of members 30. 1857. Shaddongate Adult School and Reading Room. No. of vols. 70, No. of members 40. Carlisle possesses two weekly papers and one tri- 132 CUMBERLAND -WARD. weekly, the "Carlisle Journal," the " Carlisle Patriot," and the " Carlisle Examiner." The " Journal " was first published in November, 1798, by Mr. Francis Jollio, in whose family it remained for many years. It was subsequently purchased by the late Mr. Steel, at that time the editor, and it is still published by his family. It advocates whig or liberal principles, and has an e.vtensive circulation. The " Patriot" was com- menced on the 3rd of June, 1815, by a company of proprietors in £25 shares. It is now, however, private property, and is conservative in its political principlc>j. The " E.xaminer" issued its first number in May, 1857, and has for its editor and proprietor Mr. Wilks. In politics it is popularly liberal, and " goes for peace, retrenchment, and reform." COURTS OF LAW. In 1435, in consequence of the assizes having been removed to other places during the Scottish war, an act of parliament was obtained, the provisions of which are as follow: — "Whereas, by a statute made in the time of King Richard II., it was ordained that the justices assigned, or to be assigned, to take assizes and deliver gaols, shall hold their sessions in the principal or chief town of every county, that is to say, where the shire courts of the county heretofore and hereafter shall be holden. Our lord the Idng, wUliug the same statute to be observed and kept in the county of Cumberland, con- sidering that the city of Carlisle is the principal and chief town of the said county, and iu which the shire court of the same county hath been holden before this time, hath granted and ordained by the authority of the same parliament, that the sessions of the justices to take assize and to deliver gaols iu the county of Cum- berland, be holden in time of peace and truce in the said city of Carlisle, and in none other place within the same county, as it hath been used and accustomed of old times." The assizes are now held here in spring and autumn, each assize being attended by two judges, who hold their courts in the County Court Houses, which are described at page 128. The midsummer and Christmas quarter sessions for the county are held at Carlisle. Quarter sessions for the borough of Carlisle are held in the Town Hall, on the Slonday preceding each county sessions, by the mayor and two senior aldermen. The borough magistrates also sit at the Town Hall, every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday ; and the county magistrates at the Court House, every Wed- nesday and Saturday. The court of the mayor and bailiffs of the borough of Carlisle sits every Monday in the Town Hall, to try actions of debt and trover, to the amount of forty shillings. It may be adjourned at pleasure, and is held quarterly, when, by a concurrent jurisdiction, actions of debt, &c., amounting to upwards of forty shillings may be tried and determined. A Court Leet and View of Frank Pledge for the city of Carlisle was formerly held twice, but now only once a year, in October, by the dean and chapter, in their manors of Botchergate and Caldewgate. The County Court of Cumberland for the recovery of debts under £'50, is held at Carlisle, and other places in the county. B.^NKS, MARKETS, FAIRS, ETC. There are three banking establishments in Carlisle, two of which issue their own notes, viz., the Carlisle City and District, and the Carlisle and Cumberland Banking Company. The Carlisle Old Bank, J. M. Head and Co.'s, is a private bank, and issues Bank of England notes. The first banks established in Carhsle were opened about the middle of last century, by Messrs. Foster and Son, and a Mr. Wilson, and were found to be of considerable service to the trade of the city. The Market Place is situated in the centre of the city, where English-street, Scotch-street, Castle-street, and Fisher-street meet. The Market Cross is a stone structure, erected in 1682, and consists of an Ionic column, with a plain shaft and pedestal, rising from the centre of a flight of circular steps. It is surmounted with a square block of masonry, the sides of which serve as sun-dials, and is terminated by a lion bearing the arms of the corporation. Above the capital of the column is the inscription, " Joseph Reed, Maior, 1082." The market days are Wednesday and Saturday, the latter of which is perhaps the best attended market in the north of England, large quantities of grain and other farm produce being brought from a distance of twenty and thirty miles around the city. The shambles con- sist of two rows of butchers' shops, extending from Scotch-street to Fisher-street, and were erected by the corporation, who, in 1790, purchased and renewed the old shambles, which stood in the Market Place. The Fish Market occupies the spot upon which formerly stood the Main Guard, and is well supplied with various kinds of fish. Fairs for the hiring of servants and the sale of cattle are held here on the nearest Saturdays to Whitsuntide and Martinmas. Fairs are also held on the 26th of August, when they continue for fourteen days, and ou ] 9th of September. During the last named fairs, all persons are free from executions issued liy the borough court. A series of fairs for horses and cattle commences THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 133 on the Saturday after the 10th of October, and con- tinues until Christmas. There is an annual show of cattle in the large Cattle Market, near the race course, when prizes are distributed by the Agricultural Society. Races are held here annually in July. The race course is situated on the Swifts, on the south side of the Eden, and possesses a grand stand, erected in 1839. Races were first established in Carlisle about the middle of the last century — the first King's Plate was run for in 1703. B.\ILW.4YS, GAS, WATER WORKS, ETC. Carlisle possesses railway communication with almost every part of Britain, a fact that has much improved its position as a commercial and manufacturing town. The Newcastle and Carlisle line connects it with the German Ocean, and the Carlisle and Silloth with the Irish Sea; the Maryport and Carlisle with West Cum- berland, as well as with Ulverston and the peninsula of Furness, and so onward into Lancashire ; while the Cale- donian unites it with Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the Lancaster and Carlisle with London and the south. The whole of these lines, with the exception of the Newcastle and Carlisle, make use of the Citadel Station, a fine struc- ture, in the Elizabethan style, erected in 1847-8. The Newcastle and Carlisle Station is a mean structure, situated on the London Road, about a mile from the city, and possesses few, if any, of the requisites of a rail- way station. Two schemes are now before parliament for connecting Carlisle with Hawick, one by Langholm, and the other by Longtown and Cannobie. In 1819 an act of parliament was obtained for the formation of a Gas and Coke Company, and works were shortly afterwards erected at a cost of about £10,000, raised in shares of £25 each. The works were situated at the south end of the town, upon a plot of ground forming part of the present general railway station. In 1840, the corporation purchased nearly all the shares, at £43 per share, and in the following year erected the present gas works, the site of the old being required for the railway station. The want of pure water was long felt in Carlisle, and many schemes were from time to time propounded to obtain an adequate supply. At length, in 1846, a joint stock company was formed for the purpose of furnishing the city and its environs witli the limpid element, from the river Eden, and operations being at once commenced, the city is now in a very fair position as far as water is concerned. The water is raised from the Eden through a deep bed of gravel, by powerful steam engines, and forced into a reservoir on the hill, near the London Road, about a mile from the Market Place, whence it is dis- tributed to ail parts of the city. Carlisle has been put under the operation of the Health of Towns Act, and a Board of Health estab- lished, through the instrumentality of which the city has been sewered, many nuisances removed, and its sanitary condition much improved. BRIDGES. Carlisle is connected with the surrounding country by five bridges, one of which crosses the Eden, three the Caldew, and one the Petteril. During the six- teenth century, two wooden structures, called Eden and Prestbeck bridges, formed the communication between Carhsle and Stanwix, but one of them having fallen down, and the other being in a state of great dilapida- tion, an act of pariiament was passed in 1600 for rebuilding them at the expense of the county, and in their stead two narrow stone bridges were erected. In 1807 an act of parliament was again obtained for the rebuilding of Prestbeck Bridge, and a new structure was commenced in 1812, from designs furnished by Robert Smirke, jun., Esq., R.A. It was completed in 1815, at a cost of £70,000, towards which government advanced £10,000, in consequence of its being in the line of the intended new north road to Port Patrick. The bridge consists of five elliptical arches of sixty- five feet span each, and is connected with the city by an arched causeway. The piers are founded partly on the solid rock and partly upon piles, ten or twelve feet below the surface of the Eden. The material em- ployed in the principal portions of the structure is'white freestone, brought from near Gretna, in Scotland. The entire length of the bridge and its approaches is 400 yards ; its breadth within the parapet, twelve yards ; and there is a flagged pavement on each side of the carriage way for pedestrians. On the completion of this fine structure the old bridge was removed. In 1820 two bridges were erected over the Caldew, one of three arches, and the other of one, for the purpose of facili- tating the communication between the city and its western suburb. Ten years afterwards a bridge of three semicircular arches was built over the Petteril, at the southern entrance of the city ; and five years ago, another bridge. Nelson Bridge, was erected over the Caldew, opening a new and direct road from Botcher- gate to Caldewgate. On the south battlement of this bridge is the following inscription : — The Nelson Bridge. The foundation stone of this bridge was laid June 25th, A.D. 1853, by Thomas Nelson, Esq., mayor. On the north battlement is the following : — The Nelson Bridge. This Bridge was built by the following subscribers, and completed a.d. 1853. Family of the late John Mil- bourne Dixon, Ferguson Brothers, Peter Dixon and 134 CUMBERLAND WARD. Sons, John Ferguson and Company, Joseph Rome, Thomas Nelson, Corporation Gas Works Committee. COKPORATION. We have no positive information relating to the first incorporation of the burgesses of Carlisle, or the form of the original city government. The city has, however, received many marks of favour from the different monarchs of England, who, in their charters, granted to the citizens many privileges and immunities. j\lany of these documents are no longer in existence, having been lost or destroyed during the various scenes of war and tumult of which Carlisle has been the theati-e. " The first charter granted to Carlisle now named in history, was granted in the reign of Henry II., and was burned in a fire which destroyed great part of the city. This charter was confirmed by Henry III., in the 35th year of his reign, granting to the citizens freedom from toll, passage, pontage, all customs belonging to the king, with the privilege of dead-wood for fuel, aud timber for their houses, in divers places within the forest of Carlisle, by the assignment of the king's sergeants and foresters, vnth a fres guild for trade and merchandise. Edward I., by his charter bearing date the 28th June, in the aist year of his reign, setting forth that Henry III.'s charter was also burned, recites the tenor thereof from the en- rolment in chancery, and confirms the same verbatim. Edward ITI., by his charter bearing date the 7th of February, in the SCah year of his reign, setting forth that it having been found upon inquisition taken by his trusty and well-beloved Richard de Denton and John de Harrington, and returned into the chancery, that the citizens of the city of Carhsle had from time immemo- rial enjoyed the following privileges, grants and confirms the same to them accordingly, — viz., return of writs ; a market on the Wednesday and Saturday of every week, and a fair yearly on the feasts of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and fifteen days after ; a free guild, and election of mayor, bailiffs, and two coroners ; assize of bread, beer, and wine ; trial of felonies, infang- thief, and all pleas of the crown which belong to the office of sheriff and coroner ; goods of felons and fugi- tives ; freedom from all fines, amerciaments, aud suits to the county court and wapentake ; common of pasture i'or all their beasts, at all times of the year, upon the King's Moor, and liliLrty to gel turf there; with freedom throughout the whole realm of England from toll, pon- tage, passage, lastage, v.harfagc, carriage, murage, and stallage ; and that they shall have the place called • Battail Holme ' for their markets and fairs ; and shall have power to divide and devise their tenements, and shall have the city mill and the king's fishery iu the water of Eden. Richard 11. (May 20th), in the fifth year of his reign, by his charter recites and con- firms aU the same. Edward IV. (December 9th), in the first year of his reign, on the petition and repre- sentation of the citizens, that the city had suffered greatly in the late civil wars, when besieged by the said king's enemies, Margaret, late queen of England, Ed- ward, late prince of Wales, and Henry, duke of Exeter, by burning the suburbs, and even the very gates of the city and the mill, and other devastations, — remits unto them £40 yearly of their fee farm rent of £80, aud further grants unto them the keeping of the king's fisheries of Carlisle, otherwise called the Sheriff's Net, otherwise called the Fishery of Frithnet, in the water of Eden. Henry VII. (February Uth), in the third year of his reign, recites and confirms their former charters ; also Henry VHI., in the first year of his reign; Edward VI., in the first year of his reign; and Queen Elizabeth, and James I. Charles I. (July 2Ist), iu the thirteenth year ot his reign, by Inspexbnus, recites and confirms all the aforesaid grants, except the free election of mayor, bailiffs, and coroners ; and further grants that the mayor and citizens shall be one body corporate and politic, by the name of Mayor, Aldermen, Bailiffs, aud Citizens of the city of Carhsle. This charter, comprehending all others, was surrendered for the use of Charles II., August 7th, 1684, to the Lord Chief Justice Jeffries; the surrender not being enrolled, was therefore a void surrender. But this charter, witli many others, was restored, and declared valid and effec- tual, by proclamation of James II., on the 17th of October, 1088." ^ The charter of Charles I., under the provisions of which the city was governed till the year 1835, enacted, "That in all times coming, the mayor aud citizens shall be one body corporate and politic by the name of the Mayor, Aldermen, Bailiffs, and Citizens of Carlisle, and shall have a common seal ; that one of the alder- men shall be mayor ; that there shall be besides the mayor, eleven other alJermeu, two bailiffs, aud two coroners ; that there shall be within the city twenty- four other men, capital citizens, to be of the common council and assistants to the mayor, &c." They were also empowered to elect a recorder and town-clerk, one sword bearer, three sergeants at mace, aud other officers. The charter also states that the mayor, alder- men, bailiffs, and twenty-four capital citizens, or the major part of them in Guild Ilall assembled, on the Monday next after Michaelmas-day, shall have power to annually one of the aldermen to be mayor for I Jefferson's History of Carlisle, p. 149. THE CITY OF CAELISLE. 135 the eusuing year; and in case of an equal number of votes, the then major to have a casting vote. Tlio new mayor so chosen must be sworn into office by tho last mayor, if he be living, otherwise by the aldermen or major part of them; and he must continue in oiEcc till another is chosen and sworn. In like manner the tAvo bailifls and coroners are to be annually chosen and sworn. On the death of an alderman, the mayor and surviving aldermen, or the major part of them, are to elect another who shall be sworn by the mayor, and shall continue for life. The charter then states the penalties for refusing to serve any of these offices. The twenty-four capital citizens continued in office during pleasure. The mayor, recorder, and two senior aldermen, were, es-officio, justices of the peace. " And finally," continues the charter, " the mayor, aldermen, bailiffs, and citizens, shall have such and the like court leet and view of frank pledge, and other courts, issues, fines, ransoms, penalties, forfeitures, amerciaments, waifs, estrays, deodands, goods of felons and fugitives, Jelo dcse, and persons put in exegent and outlawed, and other emoluments, as former mayors, aldermen, bailiffs, and citizens, have enjoyed, by whatever name of incor- poration they were called or known." This charter, comprehending the spirit of aU previous grants, and giving some new privileges to the corporation, was sur- rendered in 108-1, to Judge Jeffreys, as above stated, but was afterwards restored as we have seen. In 1835 an act was passed for the regulation of municipal corpo- rations in England and Wales, and under its provisions the old corporation of the city was dissolved, and a new body, consisting of ten aldermen and thirty councillors established. The style of the corporate body now is the Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses of the city of Car- lisle. The municipal and parliamentary limits of the city of Carlisle are co-extensive, and comprise the town- ships of Botchergate, English-street, Scotch-street, Fisher-street, Castle-sti-eet, Abbey-street, Kickergate, Eaglesfield Abbey, and part of Caldewgate township. For municipal purposes the city is divided into five wards, the citizens or burgesses of each ward electing six councillors, who retain their office for three years, but are eligible to be re-elected. The aldermen are elected by the councillors, and during their appoint- ment, which is six years, they are members of the council, but possess no power or authority above the councillors. From the town council, consisting of both aldermen and councillors, the mayor is chosen annually. He is an unpaid officer, and the business of the town council is transacted monthly, at meetings which are open to the public. Since the establishment of this new body, many improvements have been effected. including a more efficient police establishment, and the funds of the corporation are now appfied for the advantage of the citizens generally. The funds of the corporation amount to between £2,000 and £3,000 a year, derived principally from rents and tolls, but the latter, by an arrangement with the railway companies, have been almost entirely commuted. The following is a list of the charters granted to Carlisle : — 23th .Tune, aist Edward I. 13th May, 9th Edward II. lath January, 'Jth Edward III. 7th February, 26th Edward III. 26th May, 5th Richard II. 19th March, 2nd Henr)' IV. 12thMay, 13th Henry VI. 9th December, 1st Edward IV. 2Sth January, 1st Richard III. 11th Februarv, 3rd Henry TiJ. 27th February, 1st Henrv VIIL 9th December, 1st Edward VI. 11th Febmary, 5th Elizabeth. 21st November, 9th EUzabeth. 1st May, 2nd James I. 21st July, 13th Charles L 9th April, 16th Charles II. 3rd December, 36th Charles II. LIST OF THE MAYORS OP CARLISLE. "The following list," says Jefferson, "has been com- piled from the audit-book of the corporation, where the names incidentally occur. From the circumstance of the mayoralty commencing in one year, and terminating in the next, — in some cases, the date given may be the year in which the mayor was elected, whilst in others, it may be the year in which he left office, but the names may be relied on as being those of the actual mayors." 137D. William de London. 1G35. Ambrose Nicholson. 1382. Adam Blennerhasset. 1630. William Barwise. 1567. Robert Dalton. 1637. Sir Thomas . 1598. Richard Bell. 1038. .Tobn Aglionby. 1599. Edward Aglionbye. 1039. John Aglionby. leOO. Henry Baines. 1040. John Baines. 1601. Thomas Blennerhasset. 1641. Langbome. ' 1602. William Barwise. 1642. Stanwis. 1603. Richard Warwick. 164S. Richard Barwise. 1604. Henry Baines. 1649. Robert CoUyer. 1005. Thomas Warwiclc, jun. 16.50. Thomas Craister. 1606. Thomas Browne. 1651. Thomas Craister. 1607. Thomas Blennerhasset. 1052. Cuthbert Studholme. 1608. Thomas Warwick, sen. 1653. Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Knt. 1609. John Pattinson. 1054. Thomas Cholmley. 1610. Thomas Pattinson. 1655. Thoma.s Monke. 1011. Edward Aglionby. 1656. Peter Norman. 1012. Thos. James, alias Shapp.1657. Sir Peter Lawson, Knt. 1013. Henry Brougham. 1058. Richard Lowry. 1014. Thomas Blennerhasset. 1659. Thomas SeweU. 1615. Richard Bell. 1060. Isaac Tullie. 1016. Thomas Warwicke. 1601. George Barwick, 1617. Adam Robinson. 1602. Henry Baines. 1018. Thomas PattinsoD. 1663. Henry Baines. 1019. Edward Aglionby. 1064. John Aglionby. 1020. Thomas Blennerhasset. 1605. Sir Philip Musgrave, Bart. 1621. Thomas James. 1006. John Thomlinson. 1022. Henry Baines. 1667. Thomas Stanwix 1623. Thomas Blennerhasset. 1668. AViUiara Wilson. 1624. Peter Baynes. 1609. Thomas Jackson. 1025. George Baynes. 1670. John Aglionby. 1626. Edward Aghonby. 1671. Sir George Fletcher, Bart. 1627. Matthew Cape. 1672. Sir Christ.Musgrave, Bart. 1628. William Barwise. 1673. P^bert Wilson. 1029. Peter Baynes. 1074. Thomas Stanwix. 1030. William Barwise. 1075. George Barwise. 1031. Edward Aghonby. 1076. WiUiam Tallantire. 1032. WiUiam Barwise. 1677. Charles (1st Earl of Car- 1633. John Baynes. hsie). 1034, Adam Warde. 1678. Thomas Warwick. 136 CUMBERLAND WARD. IC79. Thomas Jackson. 1703. Thomas Coulthard. 1082 Joseph ReeU. 17C4. Richard Hodgson. 1683. Edward (Lord Moi-peth) 1705. .I.iliii Davison. 1884. John How. nr,(,. Khli:,!.! iLidgson. 1085. Thomas Warwick. 1 > 1688. Basil Fielding. K '■1 -.11. 1687. Henry Fletcher. r.ni. \, ,.;:,, Ml ll.i.lgson. lO^V 17 70. .Teien.iali WherUugs. 1C,>'' 1771. Morris Coulthax-d. l(l!lo. 1, •• , ; 1 1 1 Ml. 1772. George Dalton. l(i!ll. ,l..!iM 11. .V,. 177.1. Gror.^'e Harrington. J(l!)-J. Williiim Niflhilson, it; i. Kiai. William Barwise. i:-." w 1.. liii 1 1.Ml^'son. ICllfi. John How. 1, J. :,,!,.;, Wl.erlings. 101)7. Thomas Simpson. \:-.'. M..ii;-. c.itiUhard. 1(598. Robert Jackson. 17S0. George Dalton. 109!). James Nicholson. 17H1. Joseph Potts. 17U0. Charles (3rd Earl ot Car 1782. Joseph Gill. lisle). 1783. John Senhouse. 1701. WiUiam Nicholson. 1784. Joseph Gill. ITOJ. Thomas Simpson. 1787. Sir Josph. Senhouse, Kut 170:3. John How. 1788. Joseph Potts. 1704. WiUiam Barwise. 1789. Richard Jackson. 1705. Nicliolas Robinson. 1790. Jeremiah Wherlings. 1706. ■loseph Parker. 1791. Richard Jackson. '707. Thomas Jackson. 1794. Jeremiah Wherlings. 170S. Thomas Coulthard. 179.5. Richard Jackson. 1709. Thomas Brougham. 1796. Morris Coulthard. 1710. WaUhew Pattinson. 1797. R. Hodgson. William Nicholson. 1798. Jeremiah Wherlings. i7ia. John How. 1799. Richard Jackson. 1713. Wilham Barwick. 1800. John Richardson. 1714. Nicholas Robinson. 1801. Jeremiah Wherlings. 1715. Brigadier Thos. Stanwis 1802. Richard Jackson. 1710. Joseph Parker. 1803. Jolm Hodgson. 1717. Thomas Jackson. 1804. Thomas Lowry, D.D. 1718. Matthew Pattinson. 1805. Thomas Blamire. 1719. Thomas Railton. 1800. Sir J. D. A. Gilpin, Knt. 17'.J0. William Tate. 1807. Richard Jackson. 17a. Joseph Jackson. 1808. Thomas Lowry, D.D. 1722. Tiaiolhy How. 1810. Thomas Blamire, M.D. 1723. John James. 1811. Sir J. D. A. Gilpin, Knt. 1724. Henrv HaU. 1812. George Blamire. 1725. John How. 1813 John Hodgson. 1720. Joseph Parker. 1814. Thomas Lowry, D.D. 1727 Thomas Railton. 1815. Thomas Blamire, M.D. 1728 William Tate. 1810. Sir J. D. A. Gilpin, Knt. 1729 Joseph Jankson. 1817 John Hodgson. 1730 Timothy How. 1818. William Hodgson. 1731 Henry Hall. IKV.I. Tliomas Blamire, M.D. 1732 Thomas Pattinson. 1- - -11 I. Ii, \. Gilpin, Knt. 1733 Thomas James. 1 ! i ; •■ ; |. .|-snn. 17.34 Proctor Robinson. ' ■ 1 ll-lsson. 1735 Thomas Railton. 1 ■ ' i . I'.laiiiire.M.D. 1730 John Atkinson. 1- ' 1 ■ , 1 ; i-^iin. 1737 Henry Aglionby. 1 i , lilunire, M.D. 17.38 Joseph Backhnusp. 1 1 '"'t;,'son. 1739 Richard Coulthard. 1 - • ■ \', ,i: nil 1 liidgson. 1740 William Tate. 1K2!I .Inliii Hodgson. 1741 Henry Aglionby. 1830 John Hodgson. 1742 Thomas Pattinson. 183! Thomas Lowry, D.D. 1743 Henry Aglionby. 1832 John Hodgson. 1744 Joseph Backhouse. 18.33 William Hodgson. 174S George Pattinson. 1834 W. N. Hodgson. 1740 James Graham. 1835 John Hodgson. 1747 William Tate. 1830 George Gill Mounsey. ]74S .Toseph Backhouse. 1837 Joseph Ferguson. 1750 George Pattinson. 183S Peter Dixon. 1753 George Blamire. 1839 Thomas C. Heyshara. 1755 Thomas Yeats. 1840 John Dixon. 1750 Richard Cook. 1811 John Dixon. 1757 Thomas Coulthard. 1842 George Gill Mounsey. 17,-,8 Joseph Backhouse. 1843 George Dixon. 1759 Richard Coulthard. 1844 Robert Bendle. 17110 (le-rKC Blamire. 1M45 James Steel. 1701 Thomas Yeats. 1840 James Steel. 17U2 Humphrey Senhouse. 1817 George Relph. 1848. William Stordy. 1849. George Dixon. 18-50. Joseph Rome. 1851. John Hewson. 1852. Thomas Nelson. 1853. Peter James Dixon. MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT FOIl CARLISLE. Intimately connected with the representation of the city are the incorporated companies, or guilds, of which Carlisle comprises eight, viz., merchants, butchers, smiths, tailors, tanners, weavers, skinners, and shoe- makers. The privileges of a free burgess are restricted to those who belong to one or other of these companies or guilds, and consist in a freedom from tolls within the city, and the right of voting in the election of members of parliament. No one is admitted to these guilds but the sous or apprentices of freemen. The sons of burgesses are free of all the guilds of which their father may be a member, and also of the guild or trade to which they have served an apprenticeship. The number of freemen having the right of voting for mem- bers of parliament was curtailed by the Reform Act, which disfranchised all freemen living beyond the dis- tance of six miles from the city. They now amount to about one-third of the electoral body, or nearly 400. The number of electors is 1134. The city of Carlisle has sent members to parliament since the reign of Edward I. The members were elected by the free burgesses, the members of the various guilds of the city. On a dispute in the House of Commons, in 1711, it was declared that the sons of burgesses born after their freedom, and persons serving seven years' apprenticeship within the city, have a right to be made free. We subjoin a list of the members of parliament for the city, from their first summons to the present time, as far as we have been able to ascertain. F.DWARD I. 1294. Robert de Grenesdale, Andrew de Seller. 1301. Henry le Spencer, Andrew Serjeant. 1301. Robert de Grenesdale, Alan de Grenesdale. 1305. Alan de Grenesdale. Edward II. 1307. Andrew Serjeant, Richard de Hubrickley. 1308. WiUiam Fit'z Juting, Robert Grenesdale. 1310. John de Crostone, William Fitz Henry. 1311. Alan de Grenesdale, Andrew Fitz Peter. Alan de Grenesdale, William de Tailleur. 1313. RohertGrencsdiile, Jnhri Wintnn. 1314. Robert Givm il.i'. , i:. inn-! I - mt-ur. 1318. Robert Givn I n . i : r '■ Robert r.i.in .1 n- . In ' : - I . In, 1321. John de W i t n. i ii nnn, n. i ,\-i.'.i. 1320. John Fleming, .Nicbuhis le Desiio.uer. Edwakd III. 1327. John Fleming, Robert de Grenesdale. Alan de Grenesdale, John de Capella. 1328. Robert de Grenesdale, Alan de Grenesdale. John Je Haverington, Simon de Sandford. Robert Grenesdale, John de Harding. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 137 1037. 1338. 1341. 1343. 1347. 134S. 1350. 1355. 1357. 1300. 1302. 1303. 1304. 1308. 1360. 1371. 1373. 1373. 1370. 1377. 1370. 1382. 1333. 1384. 1385. 1380. 1387. 1388. 1380. 1301. 1303. ISOfi! 1387. 130!). 1401. 1400. 1413. 1414. 1415. 1417. 1421. 1422. 1427. 1420. 1430. 1432. 1434. 1435. 1436. 1441. 1440. 1448. 1440. 1450. 1352. 1434. John Haverington, Simon Sandford. John Fleming, Adam Crofton. John de Pickering, Henry Pepir. John Fleming, Adam Croftou. Thomas Hardiill, Thomas Friskington. John de Exlington, Thomas 'U'orthfell. Thomas de Pardisliow, fiiles de Orreton. John de Denton, Adam Brighton. Thomas de Pardishow, Giles de On-eton. John de E.Klington, John de Bardgit. Robert Grenesdale, William Fitz Ivo. Thomas Baron, Tlioraas de Fresington. John Fleming, Adam Crofton. WilUam Fitz Henry, Henry le Spencer. Thomas Hardgil, John Fleming. John Chapel, William Chapel. Adam Crofton, Robert Tebay. Adam Crofton, Thomas Appleby. Robert Tebay, John de Haghton. William ^Vrture, Thomas Stanley. Thomas Alaynby, William Spencer. John de Thorneton, Adam de Aglionby. William Arthureth, William Spencer. Adam Halden, William Spencer. William Anhureth, Richard London. Richard Orfenr, William Clifton. Adam Aglionby, William de Clifford. William Arthuret, John de Waverton. John de Whitlawe. .... William Raughton, William Carlisle. Thomas Tayleur, Richard Denton. Richard Denton, John de Burgh. Richard Denton, John de Burgh. Richard II. Robert Carlisle, John Levington. Robert Carlisle, — Parker. William Osmnnderlaw, John Skelton. Richai-d London, John de Appleby. Stephen de Cai-lisle, Thomas Bolton. Richard London, John Blennerhasset. "(VilUam Aglionby,' John Gemot. Adam de Denton, Robert de Bristow. Robert de Carlisle, William Aglionby. John de Corkeby, Nicholas Leveston. Adam de Kirkbride John Monceaux, Robert Briston'. John Roddesdale, John de Wek. John de Erugham, John Monceaux. John Helton, John Brugham. Robert Bristow, John Bristow. Henry IV. John Helton, Robert Bristowe. Tliomas Bolton, Robert Bristowe. Thomas de Darle, WiUiam Mulcastre. Henry V. Robert de Carlisle, Ralph Blennerhasset. Robert de Cai-lisle, WiUiam de Cardoyll. Robert Lancastre, William Bell. Robert Cariisle, William Cardoyll. WilUam Manchestre, John Thompson. Henry VI. Robert Cardoyll, Richard Gray. John Helton, William Camherton. Thomas Derwent, Adam Haverington. Everard Barwick, Robert Clerk. Richard Bristow, Richard Bawleke. William Northing, Nicholas Thompson. Richard Thornburgh, Rowland Wherton. Robert Mason, Thomas Marescall. John Blennerhasset, William Buckler. Thomas Stanlaw, George Walton. Robert Carlisle, Richard Alanson. Richard Cliatlerley, Thomas Chatterley. Richard Alanson, Alured JNIaleverer. John Skelton, Rowland Vaux. John Bere, Thomas Derwent. 1450. Richard Berveriey, Thomas Ruldn. Edward IV. 1407. Henry Denton, Richard George. 1473. Robert Skelton, John Coldale. Henry VIII. 1541. Wilham Stapylton Edward VI. 1547. Edward Aglionby, Thomas Dalston, 1552. Edwai-d AgUonb^, John Dudley. Map-y. 1553. John Aglionby, Simon Bristow. Robert Whitley, Richard Mynsho. Philip and JIaey. 1553. Richard Whitley, Richard Jlynsho. 1554. William Middleton, WilUam Warde. 1555. Richard Asheton, Robert Dalton. Elizabeth. 1558. Richard Asheton, William Jlulcasti-e. 1502. Richard Asheton, William Mulcastre. 1570. Robert Bowes, Christopher Musgrave. 1571. Thomas Pattinson, Thomas Tallentyre. 1584. Edward Aglionby, Thomas Blennerhasset. 1585. Henry Mc.WiUiam, Thomas Blennerhasset. J 588. Henry Scroope, John Dalston. 1592. Henry Scroope, Edward Aglionby. 1596. Henry Scroope, Thomas Stanford. 1000. Henry Scroope, John Dudley. James I. 1003. Thomas Blennerhasset, WiUiam Barwick. 1014. Henry Fane 1020. Henry Fane, George Butler. 1623. Henry Fane, Edward Aglionby. Charles I. 1025. Henry Fane, Edward Aglionby. Henry Fane, Richard Graham. 1027. Richard Barwick, Richard Graham. 1G30. ■\VilIiam Dalston, Richard Bai-wick. 1040. WUliam Dalston, Richard Barwick. COJIIIONWEALTH. 1055. Col. Thomas Filch. 1C57. Col. George Dowoing. Ili50. Col. George Downiu-, Thomas Craister. 1000. AVUliam Briscoe, Jeremy Tollinrst. Charles II. 1061. Philip Howard, Christopher JMusgrave. 1070. Philip Howard, Christopher Musgrave. 1080. Edward Lord Morpeth, Christopher Musgrave. James II. 1085. Christopher Musgrave, James Graham. William III. 1089. Christopher Musgrave, Jeremiah Bubb. 1600. Jeremiah Bubb, Christopher Musgrave. W'illiam Lowther. .... James Lowther 1604. William Howard, James Lowther. 1697. William Howard, James Lowther. 1090. Philip Howard, James Lowther. 1700. Philip Howard, James Lowther. Axke. 1702. Christopher Musgrave, Thomas Stanwix. 1705. Thomas Stanwix, James Montague. 1708. Thomas Stanwix, James Montague. 1710. Thomas Stanwix, James Montague. 1713. Christopher Musgrave, Thomas Stanwix. George I. 1714. Thomas Stanwix, WUUam Strickland. Henry Aglionby 1721. James Bateman, Henry Aglionby. George II. 1727. Charles Howard, John Hylton. 1733. Charles Howard, John Hylton. 138 CUMBEELAND WARD. 1740. Charles Howanl, .Tohn Hylton. . John Stanwix. 1717. Charles Hnwaril, John Stanwix, 1754. Chai-les HownrJ, Jolin Stanwix. GEonoE ni. 17C(l. Piaby Vane, Henry Curwen. 17U7. Lord Edward Uentinck, George Musgrave. 1774. Fletcher Norton, Anthony Storer. Walter Stanhope. 1780. Earl of Surrey, William Lowther. 1784. Earl of Surrey, Edward Xorton. 17SG. J. CLristian, on the elevation of the Earl of Surrey to the peerage. 17S7. Rowland Stephenson, on E. Norton's demise. 17aO. J. C. Curwen, Wilson Bradyll. 170(i. J. C. Curwen, Sir F. Fletcher Vane, Bart. 1802. J. C. Curwen, Spencer Stanhope. 1800. J. C. Curwen, Spencer Stanhope. 1807. J. C. Curwen, Spencer Stanhope. lSl-2. Sir .T. Graham, Bart. (Edmond Castle), Henry Fawcett. 1810. J. C. Curwen, on the death of H. Fawcett. 1818. Sir James Graham, Bart., J. C. Curwen. George IV. 1820. Sir James Graham, Bart., J. C. Curwen. 1820. William James, on Mr. Curwen's election for the conntv. 1825. Sir Philip Slusgrave, Bart., on the death of Sir James Graham, Bart. 183C. Sir P. Musgrave, Bart., Right Hon. Sir J. E. G. Graham, Bart. 1827. Col. Lusliington, on Sir P. Jlusgi-ave's decease. 1820. Sir William Scott, Bart., ou Sir J. Pv. G. Graham's elec- tion for the county. Wir.LlAJi IV. 18:;n. (-■>L I,:,-l,,n ■Ion. P. H.Howard. l^:;l : :l M.>:i:.l, William James, lb".; I ,: i'..:inl, William James. .lb:U. ;\...4, Ji. 11" v:,r.l, Willi;im Marsliall. 1835. Piiilip H. Howur.l, Willi,,.,. ?.;arsLaU. Vi,-r,-,r:iA. 1837. Philip Henry Hi iwar.l, ^Villin,ii :\rarshall. 1841. Philip Henry Howard, William Mai-shall. 1847. John P)ixon, W. N. Hodgson.i 1848. Philip Heni7 Howard, W. N. Hodgson. 1851. Sir James Graham, Joseph Ferguson. 1857. Sir James Graham, W. N. Hodgson. FOOR LAW U^■ION. Carlisle Poor Law Union is divided into si.x sub- districts, viz., St. Cuthbert's, comprising tbe townships of Carleton, High Blackwell, Low Blackwell, Harraby, Uppcrby, Brisco, Botcherby, Botchergate, English- street, and AVreay Chapelry; St. Mary's, embracing Scotch-street, Fisher-street, Castle-street, Abbey-street, Rickergate, and Caldewgate townships, with the extra- parochial place called Eaglesfield Abbey; Burgh, including the parishes of Beaumont, Giinsdale, Kirk- andrews, and Burgh-on-Sands, with the townships of Boustead Hill, Lougburgh, and Moorhouse ; Dalston. which contains the township of Orton, Baldwinholme, Cuinmersdalc, Dalstou, Buckabank, Baugbtou and (iatesgill, Ivegill, Hawkesdale, and Cumdevock ; Stan- wix, comprising the townships of Stamvix, Rickerby, Linstock, Tarraby, Houghton, Etterby, Staintoii, Cargo, 1 Election declared void March, 1818. Church Town Quarter, Castle Town Quarter, and the extra-parochial place called lungmoor ; Wetheral, con- sisting of Walby, Brunstock, Low Crosby, High Crosby, Aglionby, AVarwick, Warwick Bridge, Great Corby, Wetheral, Coathill with Cumwliiutou, and Scotby townships. The area of the union is 70,810 statute acres. Its population in 1851 was 41,557, of whom 20,138 were males, and 21,419 females. The number of inhabited houses at the same period was 6923, of uninhabited 105, and 57 were in course of erec- tion. This union possesses three workhouses, viz., St. Mary's, for the reception of infirm paupers ; St. Cuth- bert's, for able-bodied paupers ; and Caldewgate, for children. St. Mary's Workhouse, situated near Irish Gate Brow, was erected in 1 785, for the reception of the paupers of the four townships of St. Mary's parish within the city ; it is a large building, with a spacious yard attached. St. Cuthbert's Workhouse, on Harraby Hill, was built in 1809, at a cost of about i;4,000, iuoluiling furniture, &c. It is a large structure, cover- ing an area of ground, which was purchased with a bequest of J£20 aided by parish money. Caldewgate Workhouse, on Coal Fell Hill, is a plain brick building, erected in 1829, at an expense of £750, aud has since been enlarged and otherwise much improved. The following statement of accounts shows the re- ceipts, expenditure, and balances for the year ending 25th March, 1858. Balance in favour of parishes last year, £2,011 3s. 3Jd. ; payments and workhouse rents during the year, £14,821 Os. 4d.; balance against parishes at the end of this year, £223 3s. 8^d. ; total, £10,255 7s. 3Jd. Averages, £06,874; number of paupers, in-door, 1050; out-door, 6653; balance against parishes last year, £40 13s. 45d.; in-niaintenanco, £1,299 lOs. 2J-d.; out-relief, £2,419 9s. 3d.; relief to irremovable poor, £4,972 7s.: lunatics in asylum, £458 Is. 9d.; extra medical fees, £13 10s.; vacci- nation fees, £54 J 2s. 6d.; registration fees, £135 IGs. Od.; county and police rate, £1,867 8s. Id.; establish- ment charges, £1,714 lis. 6d.; collectors' salaries, &c.; £326 lis. 9d.; total expenditure this year, £13,133 6s. 1 Hd.; total expenditure for the year ending March, 1857, £12,243 Us. IJd.; increase £1,032 Os. lOid.; diminution, £142 5s.; balance in fevour of parishes, £2,940 12s. 4d.; total, £16,225 7s. S^d. The ave- rage weekly number of in-door paupers for the first half year was 236, for the second half-year, 237. The weekly cost per head was as follows : — first half-year, food and necessaries, 2s. 7id.; clothing, 3id.; total, 2s. lid.; second half-year, food and necessaries, 2s. 9id.; clothing, 5}d.; total, 3s. 2Jd. THE CITY or CAELISLE. 139 ASTIQUITXES. In giving au account of the antiquities found in Carlisle, it must necessai-ily 'prove brief and imperfect, from the limited space at our disposal. A parti- cular account of all the Koman remains wliich have been found in this city, would alone fill volumes. Car- lisle may indeed be said to be Roman in its soil and foundation, since no search can be made beneath the surface witliout turning fi-om its resting place of nearly two thousand years some valuable relic of antiquity, the cunning workmanship of the imperial masters of the world. Many centuries have elapsed since the Eomans left Carlisle, and during that time the spade and axe have been continually bringing to light some of the concealed proofs of their having had a residence in the city ; and yet the store is unexhausted ; year after year some fresh memorials are continually dug up, and additional relics brought to light to be preserved in the cabinets of the curious. A labourer who was excavating some ground in Fisher- streot, in 1782, met with a large quantity of silver coins, within a few feet of the surface. They were in a state cf high preservation, and consisted of those of Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Hadrian, Antoninus Pius, Commodus, and the Empress Faustina. In the year 1787, in making a drain in Scotch- street, two Roman altars were found, one of which had figures in bas-relief, but without any inscription, and was much mutilated. The other altar, an account of which was sent by Mr. Piooke to the Society of Antiquaries, was in better preservation. It has a figure in bas- relief, which that gentleman supposed to represent Silvanus, or some other rural deity, holding a ram in his right hand ; but the Messrs. Lysons suppose it to have been intended for a goat ; the left hand holds what appeal's meant for a. patera or cup. At the latter end of the last century, some workmen discovered, near the West Walls, between the citadel and the deanery, the top of a stone arch ; and on removing some of the stones, they gained an entrance into au arched room, thirty feet in length, twelve feet in breadth, and fifteen feet high in the centre. The end was not so lofty, and rather naiTower : it was sup- posed to have had communication with other similar rooms, the entrance to which was walled up. A circular funnel of stone-work rose from one side of the room to the footpath on the walls, where it was covered by a large flat stone. Another funnel, nearly square, ex- tended from the middle of the arch towards the city ; this was about two feet broad, and three feet high. Search was made into it, but it was found to be choked up with rubbish. A vase, and the thigh-bone and pai-ts j of the ribs of a bison, were found in this curious cavity. The ribs were about four inches broad. In 1804, an accidental discovery was made in Sewell's Lane, Scotch-street, of a small aperture in the ground, having the appearance of a communication with a sub- terraneous passage. This excited curiosity, and it was found there was a wall beneath, of the depth of twenty- seven feet, twenty-four of which were water. The earth was removed, and the workmen then found them- selves on the brink of an abyss, whose depth no light could render visible, and into which the rubbish fell with a hollow reverberation. After this large opening was emptied of the water, they found a loosa bottom, composed of clay, and mixed with the bones and oSal of animals, among which was the head of a bullock or cow, -tt-ith the horns as perfect as when slain. Amidst this heterogeneous mixture, they brought up two Roman sacrificial vases, of beautiful workmanship, with carved handles, ornamented with figures in alto-relief. One of these vases was very perfect, and measured above eleven inches in height, and twenty-one inches in circum- ference. They were both very elegant in their form, and resembling Etruscan vases. From the number of bones found, it was conjectured that this had been a place where the Eomans had been accustomed to offer their sacrifices, and from the style and workmanship displayed in the vases, they were attributed to the period between the reigns of Nerva and Mai-cus Aurelius. Xo inscription, however, was discovered to attach any certainty to these conjectures of their probable date. This description of vase, generally known by the title 2irmfericulum, was appropriated for containing the in- cense used in sacrifice. The two vases are formed of metal, appearing to be a composition of brass, or a kind of bronze, refined to a degree capable of being exqui- sitely wrought and of bearing a high polish. Their tops and bottoms have evident marks of having been turned and finished in a lathe. The bandies contain four dis- tinct tiers of figures or groups in bas-relief, iUusti-a- tive of sacrificial rites. The upper tier represents two persons preparing a bullock for sacrifice ; the second, a bear held for a similar purpose ; the third, a priest, habited in sacerdotal robes, holding a victim on au altar ; and the lower one, the most beautiful of the four tiers, represents on one side, a man in armour, holding a knife, and another person presenting a sheep or lamb for slaughter; on tlie other side is a priest with a knife or sword. These most curious vases were sold as old brass by the labourers who discovered them, for the sum of eighteen-pence ! But they were eventually secured from being melted down, and purchased by the 140 CUMBERLAND WAED. late Mr. Townley, the antiquarian. They arc now pre- served in tlie Britisli Museum. Horsley describes a lloinau inscription which lie saw at Carlisle : — G. I'. R. F. which he reads, — Legio se.via rictyix pia fidclls Gcnio PopuU Romani fecit. Camden speaks of it in his time as being " in the garden of Thomas Middleton," but it appears to have been destroyed or removed, and Hutchinson says it was unknown -what had become of it. In 1808, some men employed in digging a cellar, also in Fisher street, discovered the handle of a Eoman vase, made of stone and highly ornamented, with a small hand-mill, also of Roman origin. These remains of antiquity were found beneath two distinct pavements, which were exposed in excavating the earth. Pave- ment has been frequently discovered at the depth of from ten to eighteen feet below the present surface of the city; proving beyond doubt the devastation com- mitted by the Picts and the Danes. In digging the foundations for the new gaol, many spe- cimens of Eoman antiquities were found on the site of the convent of the Black Friars. At the depth of fifteen feet from the surface, a tank was discovered, composed of oak frames and boards of very rude workmanship, and stuffed all round with a light blue clay rarely to bo met with in this neighbourhood. They found two pitchers in the tank ; and also several fragments of red earthen- ware, bearing ornaments in bas-relief; coins of Vespa- .sian, Trajan, Antonius Pius, Tacitus, &c. ; various urns containing bones ; and two sandals, or shoe-soles ; these were embedded in a stratum of rubbish, of the depth of from twelve to twenty-seven feet, which covered the natural soil. These antiquities are now in the valuable collection of Mr. C. Hodgson. On excavating the earth on Stanwix bank, in 1812, in a field belonging to the Earl of Lonsdale, preparatory to building the bridge over the Eden, the workmen found at about four feet from the surface of the ground, the capital and part of a pillar of the Tuscan order, which was fifteen inches in diameter, and lying horizontally. -Vn aqueduct was also discovered, formed of large stones laid with cement, and several pieces of hewn stone and large bricks. The base of a massive column with pedestal were dug up, about five feet below the surface, near the same place, in 1815. In the following year, on widening and improving the road at that place, a very large quantity of human bones was discovered in a vault about eight feet long and four in breadth, which was flagged at the bottom, lined with clay, and covered at the top with earth about a foot in depth. A fragment of Roman pottery was found at the time, with this in- scription on the rim — s a r e i, which may probably mean, Sevcrus Awjustus Bestitutor Bomanoruni Imperii, in allusion to the services rendered to the Roman empu-e by Severus, in checking the irruptions of the northern barbarians. In 1829, during the excavations made at Gallow Hill, near this city, for the purpose of levelling the turnpike road, a considerable number of interesting remains of antiquity were found. GaUow Hill is an extremely interesting place, not only from its having been the place selected for the execution of the rebels of 17-l.j,' but also from its being on the line of the great Eoman road from Lugubalia to Voreda, and from the evidences of its being a place of sepulture during the Roman period. AVhen the road was levelled through this hill, many Roman urns, lamps, jet rings, lachrymatories, and coins, were found, and also the head of a statue, the capital of a Corinthian column, and a well executed sepulchral stone, in good preservation. This latter represents a female, in alto-relievo, three feet long, and one foot two inches and a half broad. The stone itself is a red freestone, five feet four inches long, two feet nine inches and a half in width, and about seven inches in thickness. The figure is holding a flower in her left hand, and underneath is the following inscription, in letters an inch and a half in length : — ■ ar • AVE • AVKELiA • vrx • sir ssos xxxxi VLrrvs • =OLINAEIS • CONJVGI • CAEISSI3IE The following reading has been suggested as correct: — Diis Manibus Aurelia. Aurelia vixit annos 41. Ulpius Apolinaris conjugi carissimm posidt; or, To the Dii manes of Aurelia. .\urelia lived 41 years. Ulpius Apolinaris placed (or consecrated) this to his most dear wife. The same year a silver buckle, or fibula, with the inscription, "jhesus sa.," — Jesus Nazarenus, was found in a garden in Botchergate. In 1830, when the workmen were digging for the foundation of the Newsroom and the adjoining houses, in Devonshire street, they found a great quantity of Roman antiquities, particularly the remains of a bath ; also some portions of the pillars Nvhich were supposed to have belonged to the convent of Grey Friars. A part 'Gallow Hill is commeinornteil by SirWnltcr Scott, in tlie "Heart of Mid Lothian," as the scene of ih"! executions in 17-l(i. Until ucaily the end of last century the remains of the gibbet were to be seen ; and at the foot of it, the ashes of the fire used in burning the bodies of those who suffered for high treason. THE CITY OF CARLISLE. 141 of a Roman jug was also found, most singularly orna- mented with grotesque faces, which is now preserved in the collection of Mr. Christopher Hodgson, of this city. A large numhor of curiosities was discovered in various parts of Carlisle wliile the workmen were en- gaged in the recent operations connected with the sewerage of the city.' CHAPJTIES. Eidley's Cliarit;/. — The sum of fifty shillings is paid out of the funds of the corporation of Carlisle, as Eid- ley's Charity, but the origin of it is unknown. The corporation fix upon some day in the month of Septem- ber yearly, when the sum is distributed by the mayor, amongst fifty poor women, who attend at the Town Hall to receive it. Woodle's Charity. — The sum of forty shillings yearly is also paid out of the funds of the corporation, and dis- tributed in the month of December, in like manner, amongst forty poor women, as Woodle's Charity. The origin of this is also unknown. Pott's Charity. — Mary Potts, who died in 1814 or 1813, bequeathed to the corporation of Carlisle £36, the interest thereof to be distributed annually at Christ- mas, amongst six poor widows of freemen of Carlisle, and six spinsters, daughters of deceased freemen, of the age of forty years and upwards ; the said widows and spinsters to be nominated by the mayor for the time being. This legacy, after the payment of the duty thereon, was paid to the corporation in 1815, but they agreed to pay the interest of the full sum of £30 out of their funds, notwithstanding the deduction above men- tioned. One moiety of the interest has been distributed annually by the chamberlain to six poor widows. Lord Whartons Bible Charity. — This city is entitled to receive a certain number of bibles from Lord 'Whar- ton's Bible Charity. They are usually sent to tlie Dean of Carlisle, and disposed of by him. EMtSEST MEN. We subjoin an alphabetical list of those eminent men, who, having distinguished themselves in their several pursuits, have lent a lustre to the place of their birth, and have become the pride of their fellow citizens : — lOn applying to Sir. CartmeU, city treasurer, for an account of these antiquities, he kindly informed us that they had heen out of his hands for some time, for the purpose of classiticatioo, and had not yet been returned ; but he promised that as soon as he received them we should hear from him. We therefore hope to be able to give some account of them in a subsequent portion of oni work. Aglionby, ,Tohn, D.D., divine and linguist, one of the eminent men enga!;ed in the translation of the New Testament by James I., in 1601; born about ISB."); died, 1009. Anderson, Eobert, poet, the " Cumberland Bard ;" died in Carlisle in 1833. Bacon, John, anther, writer of a number of essays tending to promote public and patriotic institutions, and, in 1786, of a larger work entitled "Liber Eegis, vel Thesaurus Kemm Ecclesiasticarum." Best, William Thomas, musician, celebrated organist; bom, 1826. Bell, John, engineer, who made several improvements in the art of gunnery. Bowman, Eobert, mathematician, who, though blind from infancy, made considerable progress in the various depart- ments of science and literature. Carlyle, Joseph Dacre, divine, traveller in the East, Arabic scholar, and poet; died, 1804. Harrington, Eobert, physician, and author of several works on chemical subjects. Gilpin, Sir Joseph Dacre Appleby, physician, who rendered great sen-ice to the army, with which he was connected for a lengthened period. Gilpin Sawrey, E.A., artist, superior painter of animals, and engraver; bom, 1783; died, 1807. Head, Grey, eminent painter; died, 1800. Jefferson, Samuel, historian. Sec. ; died in London a few years ago. Morris, Capt. Thomas, song writer and biographer; died, 1732. Mulcaster, Eichard. M.A., divine, poet, linguist, and master of Merchant Tailors' School; died, 1611. Stephenson, Joseph, landscape painter ; bom, 1756; died, 1792. Thompson, William, mathematician, about the beginning of the present century. Strong, Joseph, mechanic, lived in King's Arms-lane. He was blind from infancy, yet he made a fine-toned organ and other musical instruments, altogether with his own hands. He was also tailor to his family, and made part of his own furni- ture ; died, 1803. Tullie, Thomas, learned divine and controversialist; bora, 1620; died, 1675-6. Wilkinson, Eev. Joseph, author. AMUSEMENTS, CUSTOMS, ETC. The principle amusements of the people of Carlisle, as well as those of the whole country, are wrestling and quoits. They know nothing of bowls, football, or cricket. The last-named is played mildly by boys of the middle and upper classes. The best attended ceremony is that of a funeral. At one time the bellman went round, to announce that on a ceitaiu day and hour so-and-so would be buried at such a place. This custom still lingers. Perhaps one or two hundred persons may accompany the corpse of a neighbour to church, most of whom never attend a place of worship at other times. They attach great importance to the churchyard where their relatives have been buried ; and the middle class, and some even of the upper, will attend a church chiefly for the reason that their departed relatives are interred in the church- yard adjoining. It is also a custom for ladies to attend the interment, wearing black silk scarfs over their bon- nets, with the broad ends hanging down, not unlike the-head dress of the Swiss peasantry. U2 CUMBERLAND WAED. PARISH OF ST. CUTHBERT. This parisli, as at prcsant constituted, consists of English-street township, comprising the principal shops of the city, and numerous lanes and courts closely packed together, with the residences of a few gentry and professional men. The majority of the inhabitants arc hand-loom weavers, who arc, for the most part, generally in veiy straitened circumstances, in consequence of the variable rate of wages. The area of English-street township is 1,542 acres. Its population is given at page 83. The parish has been much improved by the sewering and draining of the city. Since the passing of Lord Blandford's Act, in 1856, the outlying townships have been severed from the mother church, and now form two separate and distinct parishes, formerly ecclesiastical districts, called respectively Christ Church and Upperby parishes. The corporation of Carlisle are lords of the manor and lords of the soil within the ancient bounds of the city ; lords of the soil meaning of the open places, such as streets, lanes, and squares. There are two banks within this parish, Messrs. Head and Co. and the City and District Bank. The county gaol post-office, Athenreum, &c. are also in the parish, through which run the Lancaster and Carlisle and the Caledonian railways. The rateable value of St. Cuthbert's Within, hi 1 848, was £9,220 8s. lOd.; in ] 857, £11,303 6s. 8d.; that of St. Cuthbert's Without, for the same years was respectively £9,129 Ts., and £15,404 7s. 8d. register — " 1783. N.B. By Vertue of an Act of Par- liament which commences this daj^ viz. y" Second Day of October, 1783, a Stamp Duty of Threepence is granted to His Majesty for every future Entry in yc Register of any Christening, Burial, &c." Inoujibents. — Henry Richardson, 1751 ; D. Carlyle, profes- sor of Arabic at Cambridge, 1785 ; Joha Fawcett, 1800 ; Clement Moody, 1851 ; B. A. Marshall, 1853. A parsonage of modern style, was erected in 1816, at the e.xpense of the congregation of St. Cuthbert's Church, as a testimonial of affection to their beloved pastor, the Rev. John Fawcett. Over the garden door is inscribed on a stone, in Hebrew, " The gift of my people. J. F. 1815." Connected with this parish is a District Visiting Society, for distributing tracts, giving reUef by bread tickets, and reporting the cases of sickness, &c. to the incumbent ; as also a Female Visiting Society, for the relief of the aged and indigent, founded in 1803, which gives a small sum weekly to each pensioner, besides supplying blankets to the most necessitous — it is sup- ported by voluntary subscriptions. CHAT-IIIES. Ucv. George Ritscheirs Gift.— By will dated 14th June, 1717, the Rev. George Ritschell bequeathed £500 to liis sister, and directed her to purchase therewith a real estate of the yearly value of £20 or thereabouts, and pay thereout, amongst other charities, forty shillings a year to the minister and churchwardens of Carlisle, to be by them distributed to forty poor widows, inhabiting within the same city, on the feast day of St. Thomas, to every one a shilling. The estate out of which this pay- ment is made is called Xunbush, and is situate in the parish of Warden, near He-xham, from which place The church, which is dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is situated in Blackfriars-street, on the south side of the cathedral. The original church of St. Cuthbert was erected at a very early period ; but having been destroyed by the Northmen in the ninth centurj-, remained in ruins for a considerable time, and was rebuilt shortly after the Conquest. It continued till the seventeenth century, •when the steeple, being in a very decayed state, was taken down, and a large quantity of Anglo-Saxon coins discovered. The church was rebuilt at the expense of the inhabitants, in 1778. It has no pretensions to architectural elegance, but is large and commodious, capable of accommodating about 1200 persons. The tower is low and square, and possesses one bell. The church contains a number of mural tablets, and a monu- ment inside the communion rails, to the memory of the Rev. John Fawcett, who was incumbent of the parish for fifty years, and died in 1851, at the advanced age of eighty-two. The monument contains a well executed bust of the deceased, with an appropriate inscription. The living is a perpetual curacy, to which the dean and chapter of Cariisle have the right of presentation, the lands and tithes of which body have passed into the hands of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. The gross annual income of the living is £155 10s., made up in xhe following manner: — rent of fields, £58; cottages, £7 16s.; (Jueen Anne's Bounty, £33 18s. lOd.; Eccle- siastical Commissioners, £33 ; railway stock, £9 Os. 4d.; dean and chapter as impropriators, .£5 Os. 8d.; fees, £8; total, £155 10s. lOd. Deductions and allowances amount, in round numbers, to £15 ; nett income £140. The parish registers extend from 1093 to the present time. A tax, now extinct, was laid upon registers of burials and baptisms ; thus notified in the parish PARISH OF CHEIST CHURCH. M3 twenty shillings are annually received by the clergyman of St. Cuthbert's, who distributes the same to twenty poor widows in the parish. Blacklock's Charity. — Thomas Blacklock, by will, about the year 17i22, left to the parish of St. Cuthbert £■20, the interest to be distributed every year, at the dis- cretion of the overseers of the poor. " The name of Blacklock," say the Charity Commissioners, " was not known in this parish, as a benefactor, at the time of our inquiry ; but there was in the church chest an indenture, dated 1st March, 1736, whereby in consideration of the sum of £20 an acre of ground at a place called Gallow Hill, was conveyed to four persons therein named, churchwardens and overseers of the poor, and trustees of the said parish, to hold to them and their successors in trust, for the use of the poor of the parish of St. Cuthbert for ever. It was also understood that this piece of land was purchased with some money left totjie parish. From these circumstances it appears, most probable, that this land was purchased with Blacklock's legacy." This land was formerly let at S.-i a-year, and the rent carried to the churchwarden's account. But a workhouse was subsequeuty built upon part of the land, and the rest was turned into a garden for the use of the workhouse, and for some time no rent was allowed for it. Since the inquiry of the Charity Commissioners, a vestry has been held, at which it was agreed that i'4 rent should be paid for this acre of laud, of which £.% was to be given to poor persons of the city townships of the parish, not receiving relief, and the same to poor persons in the out-townships yearly, between. Candlemas and Easter. PARISH OF CHRIST CHURCH. This parish consists of the township of Botchergate, which, until the passing of Lord Blandford's Act in 1856, was comprised in St. Cuthbert's parish. For the most part it is densely peopled by the labouring classes, there are, however, a few respectable houses and shops. It contains three cotton mills, one woollen factory, and three foundries, which afford employment to a large portion of the population, many of whom are engaged on the railways. Botcher- ,gate township contains 840 statute acres. For population, see page 83. Like the other parts of Carhsle, tliis parish has been improved by sewerage, a good water supply, and the erection of a better class of dwellings for the poor. The manor of Botchergate, formerly belonging to the prior and convent of Carlisle, and now to the dean and ■ chapter, extends over the greater part of the old parish of St. Cuthbert. This township is said by some to owe its name to one Botchard, a Fleming, who formerly possessed extensive property here. THE CHtlKCH. Christ Church is a neat building, in the early English style, erected fi-om designs furnished by Mr. Hickman, and will seat about 1,000 persons. Its exterior appearance is ' handsome, and it possesses a neat spire. The amount subscribed towards its erec- tion by the parishioners was £2,140, the remainder being defrayed by the Commissioners for building new churches. The church contains a mural tablet, to the memory of the late Mr. Eothwell, of the ]Mains. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the dean and chapter of Carlisle; gross income about £125, derived chiefly from pew rents. The church was con- secrated in 1831, when the Rev. B. Ward, the first and present incumbent was appointed. The parsonage, a plain brick structure, was erected by subscription and a grant from Queen Anne's bounty, in 1833, on a site given by the dean and chapter, in Eaglesfield Abbey. There is a District Visiting Society in this parish. Hardwick Lodge, the property of G. H. Head, Esq., now the residence of the Rev. J. H. Burton, chancellor of the diocese ; and the Mains, the residence of Miss Rothwell, are in the parish. 144 CUMBERLAND WARD. iNCtunjENTS.— George Broithwaite, ; Kobert Simpson, 1754 ; John Bird, 1783 ; Michael Wheelwright, 1801 ; Samuel E. Hartley, 1809 ; Wilham Eees, 1819. TARISH OF ST. MARY.' This parish comprises tbe townships of Abbey-streot, Castle-street, Fisher-street, Scotch-street, Rickergate, Middle- sceugh and Braithwaite, Caldewgate, Cummersdale, and Wreay, the latter of which is a chapelry. Caldewgate and Cummersdale form the ecclesiastical district of Holy Trinity. The Port Cadisle and Silloth railway runs through a portion of the parish. The rateable value of St. Mary's Within, in 1848, was£Il,971 7s. 9d.; in 1857, .£1^,037 10s. 2d. That of Rickergate, for the same years, was ±*5,900 10s. 5d., and £8,654 15s. 5d. respectively. The manor of John de Capella, belonging to the dean and chapter, extends over a great portion of this parish. Hutchinson, quoting from Milbourne's additions to John Denton's MS. gives an account of the manor of Cald- coats, or Harrington House, afterwards called Coldale Hall, which belonged successively to the Canterelle, Semen, Coldale, Brisco, Sibson, Dacre, and Foster families. The manors of Caldoats, Newbiggiu, New Laithes, and Botchardgate, which, previous to the sup- pression of the religious houses by Henry VIII. be- longed to the priory of Carlisle, were granted by that monarch to the dean and chapter. The three first named manors seem to have merged into what is now termed the manor of John de Capella. The parish also seems to have included the ancient manor of Shaddongate, which was gi-anted by Henry I. to Morvin, whose grand- daughter brought it in marriage to Gwercius Flan- drensis, and which afterwards became the property of the Dentons, from whom the demesne, called Denton's Holme is said to derive its name. This property was purchased about the close of the seventeenth century, by Mr. Norman, from whom it passed to the Dixon family. Most of the lands at Shaddongate are now held under the manor of I-ow Dalston, or that of John de Cappella. The Soccage manor of Carlisle comprises the whole of Scotch-street township, and extends over 500 acres of land in the neighbourhood. It was demised by Queen Elizabeth to Henry, Lord Scrope, and next to George Clifford, earl of Cumberland, sub- sequently coming into the hands of the Howards, earls of Carlisle; but the Duke of Portland having succeeded in his claim to this manor, as part of the forest of Ingle- wood, it was included in the Duke of Devonshire's pur- chase in 1787. THE CnUBCU. The parish church of St. Mary is within what remains of the ruined nave of the cathedral, in our notice of which it will be found described. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the dean and chapter, to whom the great tithes are appropriated, and is worth about £79 per annum. CHAKITIES. Rev. Gforge EitschelVs Gift.— The parish of St. Mary is entitled to twenty shillings, left by the Rev. George Eitschell, to be given annually to twenty poor widows, as stated in the account of St. Cuthbert's parish. This is received regularly, and distributed as directed. Kirk MicheU's Gift. — The interest of the sum of £10, supposed to be a legacy from a Mr Kii-k MicheU, formerly of Carlisle, is annually distributed to poor widows of the parish. MIDDLESCEUGH AND BRAITHWAITE. This township, though ecclesiastically in St. Mary's parish, is locally situated in Death Ward, at a distance of from nine to ten miles south of Carlisle. It is bounded on the north by Dalston, on the west by Castle Sowerby, on the south by Skelton, and on the east by Hesket-in-the-Forest and Sebergham. Its area is 2010 acres, and rateable value £1,553. The population in 1801 was 150; in 1811, 107; in 1821, 221 ; in 1831, 105; in 1841, 181; and in 1851, 1G3; who are located in single houses dispersedly. Agriculture is the chief employment, and Penrith is the market usually attended. The soil is a strong ai-able, with a portion of meadow land, resting on a strong clay subsoil. The manor of Middleseeugh belongs to Sir H. F. Vane, Bart., and, that of Braithwaite to Lord Brougham. The common was enclosed under the act of 1803 for enclosing the forest of Inglewood. The principal landowners are Sir H. F. Vane, Bart., Mrs. Wilson, James Atldnson, Mrs. Price, John Pollock, William Pollock, Mrs. Foster, and Messrs. Wakefield. The inhabitants attend the chapel at Ivegill or Ilighhcad, and marry and bury at Seberg- ham, for which privilege they keep in repair a hundred yards of road near the church ; they support their own poor. Middleseeugh Hall is at present a farmhouse. Middleseeugh Fore_st or Wood is a noted place for fox hunting. t Eaglesfield Abbey. — Exlra-Parochial Place. — This is on extra-parochio] place, tbe returns for which, up to 1811, those of St. Mary's parish. It comprises ten inhabited houses; its popiUation in 1811 was 03, and in 1851, (JO. included in HOLY TMNITY ECCLESIASTICAL DISTRICT. 145 HOLY TRINITY ECCLESIASTICAL DISTRICT. The district attached to the church of Holy Trinity includes the townships of Caldewgate and Cummersdale, part of the parish of St. Mary, Carlisle. The soil here is of a heavy clay, partly mi.xed with gravel, upon a wet subsoil, except in the vallfey of the Eden and Caldew, where it is of a red sandy alluvium. The habits of the people are similar to those of any other manufacturing district. The Port Carlisle, Silloth, and Newcastle and Carlisle railways run through this district, in which are situated the Infirmary and Fever House. black mould incumbent upon a red clay subsoil, gene- C.\LDEWG,\TE. This township comprises an area of 1,564 acres ; its population will be found at page 83. It was enclosed by act of parliament in 1786. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the various branches of the cotton manufacture. The Roman wall passed through part of the township of Caldewgate upon the banks of the Eden. The manorial rights are vested in the dean and chap- ter. The rateable value of Caldewgate, in 1848, was £9370 16s. 2d.; in 1857, £13,968 7s. 9d. THE CHURCH. The District Church of Holy Trinity was begun in September, 1828, and opened in 1832. It is in the Early English style, from a design by Rickman, and will seat about 1,000 persons. The cost of erection was about £6,000, towards which the £1,890 was subscribed by the parishioners ; the remainder of the required sun being furnished by the Commissioners for building new churches. There is a handsome painted window in the chancel, presented by Mrs. Ann Thwaytes. The living, a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the dean and chapter, is worth about £100 per annum. Incumbents. — Edward Salkeld, 1831; James Thwaytes, 1&39; James Tasker, 1845. The parsonage is in Eaglesfield Abbey. CHAKITV. Davison's Charity. — John Davison, who died De- cember 2nd, 1774, bequeathed £000, the interest of which, after paying a small sum to a person for keeping the accounts, was to be distributed amongst eleven or twelve poor housekeepers, who had not been in receipt of parish relief. The money was invested, in Februaiy, 1776, in the purchase of £692 8s. stock, in the 3 per cent. Consols, and the dividends are divided annually, amongst eleven or twelve poor persons of Caldewgate township. CDMMEESDALE. This township contains an area of 1,911 acres.and its rateable value is £2,800. Its population in 1801 was 382; in 1811, 462; in 1821, 512; in 1831, 488; in 1841, 620 ; and in 1851, 659. The soil is a light rally well drained by tiles, and from its proximity to Carlisle in a high state of cultivation. The Carlisle and Maryport railway intersects the township. The prin- cipal landowners are the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, Joseph Ferguson, Esq.; Dr. Barnes; Colonel Sowerby; John Dalton, Esq. ; Gustavus Gall, Esq. ; George Thompson, Esq. ; Messrs. John Birket, Thomas Arm- strong, Thomas Dalton, and William Ni.xon. The tithes have been commuted for £27 18s. The Bishop of Car- lisle is lord of the manor. A large cotton factoiy (spinning) and flour mill are can-ied on here by Messrs. John Dalton and Sous ; and at Holme Head, which is partly in this township, and partly in that of Caldewgate, are the extensive dyeing and bleaching works of Messrs. Ferguson, Brothers. Here are also situated the printworks of Messrs. T. and H. Mc.Alpin, Stead, & Co. This place was erected in 1801, by Mr. John Forster, banker, Carhsle, and commenced business under the name of Forster, James, and Co. (afterwards Forster, James, Wastell, Donald, and Co.), under the management of Mr. David Donald. The garment prints produced by this firm were in great request, and considered second to none at that time for good workmanship and fastness of colours. The works were continued by the above firm until the year 1817, when they ceased, and for seventeen years remained totally unoccupied. At the end of that time the place, then in a most ruinous state, was taken by Thomas Mc.Alpin & Co., who put it in thorough repair, and having laid down new machinery, moved by a large and powerful water-wheel, commenced working on the 31st of August, 1835, since when, up to the present time, under the able management of Mr. H. Mc.Alpin, the works have been successfully carried on. Some years after commencing, the firm underwent a change, it is now T. and H. Mc.Alpin, Stead, & Co. There are several distinct branches in the business, each presided over by its own foreman ; the number of hands altogether employed being about two hundred and twenty. The work produced is of the liighest class of block chintz furniture printing, and for many years the firm has stood unrivalled in this important branch of 14C CUIIBEELAKD WARD. trade. Of the many print works formerly existing in Cumberland, this is the only one now left. The village of Cummcrsdalo is two miles south-west of Carlisle. Newby is another vilkge in this townsliip, about one and a half miles north-west of Cummersdale. Hero is a school for children of both se.xes, erected by subscrip- tion in 1833, aided by a grant from the National Society. There is also a school at Holme Head, erected in 184 J, by Messrs. Ferguson Brothers, for the education of the children of their workpeople. The average attendance is about TO. Carlisle Cemetery. — The new cemeteiy, which has been provided as the last resting place of the inhabi- tants of the old border city, is situated in this township, about a mile south-east of Carlisle, and comprises an area of thirty-five acres, purchased from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. It was opened for interment ou the 20th of Jlay, 1855, and the present Bishop of Carlisle, Dr. ViUiers, consecrated that portion, sixteen acres, allotted to the members of the Established Church, on the 23rd of June, 1850. The cemeteiy is beauti- fully situated on elevated ground, which commands an extensive view of the Scottish, Northumbrian, and Cumbrian mountains. In the foreground appear the cathedral and other churches, the grey keep of the castle built by Eufus, the ancient priory, and the only remaining portion of the wall by which the city was formerly surrounded. There are two handsome chapels in the Early English style, built of brick, with white stone dressings and buttresses. Each chapel is sur- mounted by a belfry and cross. The floors of the inte- rior are laid with encaustic tiles, by Minton, and have a veiy pleasing effect. The lodge- and entrance gateway form a neat structure in the same style as the chapels. The ground was laid out and the chapels and lodge erected from designs furnished by the Messrs. Hay, of Liverpool ; Mr. J. Creighton, of Carlisle, was the con- tractor. The cost amounted to £14,000. Several handsome monuments ornament the cemetery. Outside the boundary wall, but in the neighbourhood of the cemetery, are the remains of some ancient wells, at the foot of a gentle eminence, called in the ancient writings " Seven Well Bank," and on which tradition reports there formerly stood an ancient chapel, the foundation of which may still be traced. Ou the principal re- maining well, of a circular form, is an inscription in IVIedioeval Latin, which, divested of its contractions, reads as follows : — Purgatum, dedicatumque, Ubeskud, die quinto Decembris, Frater, de sub rape lapidem venerabili Sancto Eedo3, ore rotundo. Venerable Bede, to whom this well seems to be dedi- cated, was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, to whom, as has been seen at page 84, a grant was made of all the land within fifteen miles of Carlisle. The Burial Board of Carlisle have therefore placed a copy of the golden cross worn by the saint, sculptured of a beautiful white stoue, on the eastern gable of the Church of England chapel, and have adopted the device for their common seal. It appears also alternated with the sacred mono- gram in the diamonds of Hartley's patent glass, with which the windows are filled. This interesting relic of antiquity was found upon what was considered by many to be the saint's body, when his stone coffin was opened at Durham, in 1827. The following is the statement of interments in the cemetery, for the year ending 31st December, 1857: — 31st March. riOthJime . 30th Sept. . 31st Dec. .. 14 lU'Jf 111 I 14^ li .v;p: ',1 •-: I (' .i .-^ ■- l.VJ;! Iii4 U 2|:i!)|ail 38 I :V43'84'U73l~C6 "WREAY CHAPELRY. This chapelry, whoso mother church is that of St. Mary, Carhsle, is bounded on the north and west by the new parish of Upperby, on the south by High Ilesket, and on the east by the river Pctteril. The inhabitants who reside in the small villages or hamlets of AVreay and Foulbridgc, and some scattered houses, arc principally engaged .in agricultural pursuits ; they attend the Carlisle and Penrith markets. There is a tile manufactory carried on by Mr. Howo, of Carlisle. The soil here is good and fertile, with a portion of meadow and arable land resting on a clayey, and in some parts a sandy subsoil. The Lancaster and Carlisle Railway runs through the chapelry, and there is a station close to the village. WRKAY CHAPELEY. u: The population of Wreay township in ] 801 was 118 ; in 1811, 104 ; in 1821, 130; in 18:31, 166 ; in 1841, 151 ; and in 1851, 149. Its area is 1,088 acres. The manorial rights of the township are vested in the Eccle- siastical Commissioners. James Losh, Esq., William S. Losh, Esq., Miss Losh, Joseph Scott, Esq., Wilham Carrick, Esq., John P. Fletcher, Esq., John K. Saul, Esq., and Mr. AVilliam Thomlinson, are the principal landowners. The village of Wrcay occupies a pleasant situation, five miles south bj' east of Carlisle, at the southern extremity of Cumberland Ward. THE CHASEL. The chapel was entirely rebuilt in 1843, at a cost of about £1,200 ; the whole of which sum, with the excep- tion of a small donation from the patrons of the living, and the contributions of a few friends, was defrayed by ]\Iiss Losh, of Woodside. It is in the Xorman style, consisting of nave and chancel, with turret, crowned by a Eoman eagle, and containing, in two niches, statues of Saints Peter and Paul. The western doorway, which i,i arched, is much admired, being ornamented -n-ith flowers of the water lily, &c. The interior is very neat, and all the windows being of stained glass, the " dim religious light," adds much to the impressiveness and solemnity of the sacred edifice ; the three in the west end are richly executed. The chaucel, which is semi- circular in form, is very beautiful, and its windows are cut to represent antediluvian flowers. Here are seven lamps, apparently lighted, intended to represent the seven spirits mentioned in the Book of Ptcvelations. Two eagles in brass, support the communion table: another, richly carved in wood, serves as a reading desk; and numerous figures of angels, birds, etc. ornament the interior of the structure. The oaken roof of the chapel is also beautifully carved, and was furnished from the well wooded lawn of Woodside, the seat of Miss Losh, whose prolific mind furnished the various devices for this splendid little edifice, which is fitted up in the style of some of the Itdiau churches. In the adjoining churchyard, there is a beautiful monu- ment, by Dunbar, to the memory of the late Miss Catherine Losh. It consists of a figure of the deceased in white polished marble, and occupies an antique Druidical cell, near to which stands a stone cross, eighteen feet high, a copy of one in Bewcastle church- yard, with a Latin inscription to the memory of the late John Losh, Esq. and his wife. The cemetery, at a short distance from the chapel, as also the sexton's house, was the gift of Miss Losh. The former contains a neat oratory, a copy of one at Perranzabuloe, Cornwall. The chapelry of Wreay existed at least as early as the reign of Edward 11., but how much greater its antiquity may be, we have no means of ascertaining. In J 319, Bishop Halton allowed a chaplain to it, to celebrate the divine ofiiccs and administer the sacraments, on condition that he constantly resided within his chapelry. In 1T39, the old chapel was con- secrated by Bishop Fleming, and the incumbent's salary was made into £20 a year, with a house. Wreay had no other endowment than the interest of a chapel stock of £200, till augmented in 1737, by Queen Aune's Bounty. The living, a perpetual curacy, is in the patronage of the dean aud chapter of Carlisle, and is now worth £86 per annum. The tithes were commuted in 1839, for £30 lis. 7d. IxcDJiBENTS. — Philip Robinson, 1738; David Graliam, 1731; John Parker, 17,33; Joseph Parker, 1738: ■William Gaskin, 17S3 ; John Barnes, 1832 ; Richard Jackson, 1835. The parsonage is a neat building, in the Elizabethan style, erected by the present incumbent, in 1846, on the site of the old parsonage, at a cost of £056. CHAEITIES. School. — John Brown, Esq. of Woodside, by will dated 27th March, 1763, left to certain trustees, £600 in trust, to pay the interest of £200, part thereof for and towards increasing the salary of the schoolmaster of .Wreay School. A part of the money was laid out soon afterwards in the purchase of land in Wreay, amounting to rather more than ten acres. The land is now let by the school trustees for the benefit of the master. The school-house was built by subscription in 1760. In 1830 Miss Losh built a new school, near the site of the old one, and endowed it with thirty acres of pasture land, which now lets for about £10 a year, which sum is applied to the education of poor children of the adjoining townships. The master's house erec- ted by the same lady, is on the model of one discovered among the ruins of Pompeii. The school is now under government inspection, supported by the quaiter pence of the children, and has an average attendance of 60 pupils. There is also a girl's school, attended by about 20 scholars. The^late Miss Margai-et Losh be- queathed to each of the above schools £30, which is invested in the Newcastle and Carlisle railway, and the interest applied as du'ected. Lou-thian'g Gift. — Pdchard Lowthian gave £50 to the minister and twelve men of Wreay, to be distributed, or otherwise invested, as they should think proper. This legacy was received in the year 1786, and is in the hands of the family of Losh, by whom the interest is 148 CUArBERL.\ND WARD. regularly paid. Tbe amount, £3 5s. is given away at Candlemas, to three or four poor persons not receiving parochial relief. "Wreay Working Men's Reading Room was established in 185G. It is well supplied with periodicals, and com- prises a library of nearly 400 volumes. The members pay a subscription of two shillings per annum. Foulbridge is a hamlet in the township, about a mile south-west of Wreay. BEAUMONT PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by the river Eden, on the west by Burgh-upon- Sands, on the south by Moorhouse, and on the east by Grinsdale. It has no dependent townships. The inhabitants are located in the village of Beaumont, and in a few scattered houses and farms. Agriculture is their principal employment, and they attend the markets at Cai'lisle. The soil here is rich and fertile. style. The chancel arch has at some time been removed, otherwise the church is in a fair state of preservation. The Earl of Lonsdale is patron of the united livings of Beaumont and Kirkandrews-on-Eden. Among those who have exercised the right of presentation to Beau- mont, we find the name of Robert de la Ferete, lord of Beaumont, in VM6 ; in 1300, Sir Richard de Bruu, Knt., presents; in 1339, Matilda Brun, lady of Beau- mont; in 1360, Wilham Beauchamp, rector of Kirk- oswald, Thomas de Tughall, %-icar of Torpenhow, and Robert Page, chaplain, present; in 1380, Sir Hugh de Dacre ; in 1569, Sir "Wilham Dacre, Knt.; in 1581, the Earl of Arundel; in 1611, Anne, Countess Dowager of Arundel, and again in 1615; in 1010, Bishop Snowdon. The living, a rectory, valued in the King's Book at X'8 Is. 8d., is worth about £13-1. The tithes were com- muted for £134 2s. 9d., in 1827, by special act of parhament. The parish register commences in 1692. Eecioks.— Elias de ThirlwaU, 1200 ; Walter de Artlinret, 1336 ; Wm. Bronne, — ; Richard Bronne, 1339; Thomas de Sourby, 13fi5; Adam de Caledbeck, — ; Walter de Ormsheved, 13GG; Robert Croft, 1380; Robert Chapman, 14n0; John Thompson,! — ; Henry Haslehead, 1562 ; Lancelot Wilson, iriSl; Edward Johnston, — ; Thomas Thompson, 1011; John Wilson, 1C15; Thomas Robinson, 1016; Tliomas Warwick, 1625; Andrew Smith, 1634; Patricius Hume, 1663; Richard Wilson, —; Sir John Lowther, 1692; Gabriel Trant, 1703; Thomas Lewthwaite, 1705; George Bowness, 1762; Richard Bum, sen., — ; Richard Bum, 1815 ; William Benn, 1817 ; John Brown, 1852. IMonkhill and New Sandsfield are hamlets in this parish. The single houses having particular names Beaumont township comprises an area of 1470 acres, and its rateable value is £1,288. The population in 1801 was 219; in 1811,270; in 1821, in consequence of many labourers being employed in this and the ad- joining parishes, in the construction of a canal, it was 323; in 1831, 276; in 1841, 288; and in 1851, 294. A portion of the township is intersected by the CarHsle and Port Cai-lisle railway, formerly a canal. The Roman wall passed through this parish, and some traces of it, as well as of the vallum, are still to be seen. The course of the wall was as follows : — It entered the parish at Beaumont Beck, near the Eden, and proceeding in a direct line to the church, went thence in a westerly direction to Burgh-upon-Sands. The manor of Beaumont was held in ancient times by the Bruns, lords of Bowness, who were also the p.atrons of the living. Previous to 1380 it became, by purchase, the property of the Dacre family, and has since continued anne.Ked to the barony of Burgh, now held by the Earl of Lonsdale, who is therefore lord of Beaumont. The principal landowners, in addition to the lord of the manor, are, John Hodgson, Esq. ; Rev. J. Hodgson ; Robert Faulder, Esq. ; G. H. Oliphant, Esq. : William Jackson, Esq. ; Mary Wilson ; George Gill Mounsey, Esq. ; Wilham Daud, Esq. ; Christopher EUiot, Esq. ; — Rothwell, Esq. ; and Ehzabeth Brown. The village of Beaumont occupies a gentle eminence on the west bank of the Eden, about four miles north- west of Carlisle, and commands beautiful views of that city, as well as of the Solway Frith, and the irregular country about Rocldiff. Here arc a tile manufactory and a corn mill. THE cmmcn. The church, which since 1092 has been common to the parishes of Beaumont and Kirkandrews, is dedicated to St. Mary. It is a plain structure in the Norman arc. Priest Hill; Casson Dyke; Kinney Garth, anciently Coney Garth, now a place for cattle to shelter in ; and Holmes MiU. 1 Dcpriv( supremacy. iu lUe reign of Elizabeth for refusing the oath BOWNESS PARISH. 149 OHAKITIES. raUlnson's Charity. — Thomas Pattinson left the interest of £50 to the schoolmaster of this parish, lurkandrews-upon-Eden, aud Grinsdale, share and share alike, if more than one, for teaching the children of those parishes who should not receive parish relief.' There is no school at Beaumont, but the inhabitants subscribed to the building of one at lurkaudrews. the master of which receives the interest of Mr. Pattiu- son's bequest. Mrs. Hodgson's School. — The children of parents, within the parish of Beaumont, not possessed of a real estate of £13 per annum, are entitled to free instruc- tion at the school founded by Mrs. Hodgson, at Wig- gonby, in Aikton parish; but the distance between Beaumont and AViggonby is too far to render this privi- lege of much value. BO^YXESS PARISH. BowNESS occupies a lai-ge headland stretching eastward into the Solway, and extends about six miles in length from east to west, and two miles in breadth from north to south. It is bounded on the north by the Solway, on the west by the Solway and the river AVampool, on the south by the Wampool and Aikton parish, aud on the east by Aikton, Kirkbampton, and Burgh-on-Sands. It comprises the townships of Bowness, Anthorn, Drumburgh, and Fingland, whose united area is 1794 acres. Carlisle and Wigton are the mai-kets usually attended by the inhabitants. A large track of moss-land, containing several hundred acres, called Bowness Flow, situated near the river Wampool, in Bowness aud Anthorn townships, has been recently drained and reclaimed. BOWN-ESS. The population of this township in 1801 was 230 ; in 1811, 318; in 1821, in consequence of the presence of labourers employed in the construction of a canal, it had increased to 171 ; in 1831, it was 388; in 1811, U21; and in 1851, 508. Its rateable value is £2,053 1 5s. The soil here varies from a good reddish clay or marl to a light gravelly soil resting on blue clay. The Carlisle and Port Carlisle railway runs through an angle of the township. On Bowness Flow there is a chemical works, carried on by Mr. David Dick, of Burgh-on-Sands ; and an asphalte manufactory, carried on by Mr. John Hollingworth, of Carlisle. " Bowness," says Coilingwood Bruce, " is the name of the bow-shaped ness, or peninsula, at the extreme point of the left bank of the Solway Frith. It is slightly elevated above the surrounding countrj-, as is plainly seen when it is viewed from a distance. A little to the east of the site of the station (Roman), the Solway is easily fordable at low water; but no one in the memory of the inhabitants of these parts has forded the estuary westward of the town. This circumstance would render Bowness a fit place to terminate the bar- rier wall. With difficulty the antiquary may see some slight traces of the walls of the station, its southern lines near the church being those which are most apparent. Xo quarry being within several miles of the ■ See Bowness pai-ish. spot, the wall and station have furnished the materials of which the church and most of the habitations of the town are composed. A small altar built up in the front of a barn in the principal street, has an inscription importing that it was dedicated to Jupiter, the best and greatest, by Sulpicius Secundianus, the tribune of the cohort for the safety of our lords the emperors Galbus aud Volusianus. Bowness may be the Gabrosentum of the Notitia ; Horsley reckoning Watchcross among the stations of the hue, conceives it to be Tunnocelum." Bowness appears to have been at a veiy early period parcel of the barony of Burgh, and was given by oue of its first barons to Gamel le Brun, or Broyne, as the family afterwards spelled the name. The Bruus, or Broynes, continued to possess Bowness for several gene- rations, aud had their seat at Drumburgh, generally sup- posed to have been one of the stations on the Pioman Wall, which ran through this parish, and'from its con- tiguity to the wastes in this district, the family was sometimes called De la Feritate. Richard le Brun, and after him Robert le Brun, enjoyed it in the reign of Edward I. In the year 1307, the first year of the reign of Edward II., Richard le Brun obtained the king's license to crenellate " his house at Drombogh, in marchia Scotim ;" aud a similar license was given to Thomas Dacre, baron of Burgh, as lord paramount. Robert le Brun occurs in the reign of Edward HI., and John Brun in that of Richard II. The last of this 160 CUMBEnLAND -WARD. name and family at Bo\vness was Eichard le Bruu, who died about the latter part of the fourteenth century, and his co-heiresses having married into the Curwen, Harrington, aud Bonett families, Bowness appears to have been re-united to Burgh Barony, as it still con- tinues, being now tlie property of the Earl of Lons- dale, the lord paramount ; besides whom, W. Hodgson, Esq. ; Mrs. "Wood ; John, Daniel, and Thomas Lawson ; John Topping ; Robert llobinson ; Pattinson Lawson ; Mrs. Reed ; John Lawson, seur. ; aud John Wills, are the principal landowners. The village of Bowness is pleasantly situated on a rocky promontory, overlooking the Solway Frith, four- teen miles west-by-uorth of Carlisle, and ten miles north-by-west of Wigtou. THE CHUECH. Bowness church, dedicated to St. Michael, is an an- cient building, the date of whose erection is unknown, but the materials employed are generally said to have been brought from the Roman station. The living, a rectory, has always been appendant to the manor, and is conse- quently in the patronage of the Earl of Lonsdale. The benefice is valued in the King's Book at £'31 13s. lid., but is now worth about £'4.")0 a year, arising from the tithes, commuted for £32(3 5s. Od. in 1838 ; 57 acres of glebe; 72 acres of land on the west common, let for £43 a year; and 191 acres of uncultivated land. The parish register commences in 1648. Eectop.s.— Roald de Richmond, 1300; Reginald de North- burgh, 1307 ; "Walter,— ; William de KirkbyThore, 1342; William de Hall, LOSl; Thomas de Barton, 1381 ; William de Bowuess, 1399; John Eobiiison, — ; WiUiam Talleutyre, 150 j; Arthur Caye,157a; James Taylor, — ; Leonard Lowtlier, 1.580; Richard Sibson, 1097; William Orbel, li;]: ; llMini i, W^irwick, IGi!); Mr. Watwict, — ; George Troutli> 1., I I'l: II nry Aglionby, 1091; Gerai-d Lowther, 1697; llemy I.owtlin-, 1731; Hugh Eobinsoi), 1753; James Watson, 17C3; Erowne Grisdale, 1784 ; Harrison Shaw, 1814 ; William M. Preston, 1823 ; Andrew Hud- dleston, 1828; John Jenkins, 1852; John Robinson, 1855. The old rectory is about to be rebuilt; the rector resides at present (1858) ia the village. The parish school is a stone building, enlarged in 1835, with an average attendance of 40 pupils. It is under inspection, and is supported by quarter pence, donations from Pattinson 's charity (as below), and William Hodgson, Esq. Pattinsons Chaiilij. — Thomas Pattinson, by will, dated the 10th of March, 1783, gave all his personal estate, after] a few specific legacies, in trust, to bo put out at interest, and the interest of £100, part thereof, to be paid annually, on the 1st of May, to the master teaching school at the new school-house at Easton, as an encouragement for teaching the children of the poor inhabitants of Drumburgh Quarter, not receiving alms, such children to be chosen by the trustees. And the testator declared his will to be, that in case the school- house should be vacant, or the trustees should not approve of the incumbent, in that ease the interest of the money should accumulate for the benefit of a new incumbent. And that the trustees should pay the interest of £20 more for supplying fires for the school ; and that the interest of other £100 should be paid annually, on the 1st of May, to the schoolmasters teaching school in the quarters of Bowness, Anthorn, aud Whitrigge, to be divided equally among them, share aud share alike, if more than one ; and the interest of £20 towards instructing the poor children of llie parish of Bo\vuess in singing psalms. He also directed that the interest of another £100 should he paid annually to the schoolmaster of Burgh, Long- burgh, and Moorhouse, in the parish of Burgh-on- Sauds, as an encouragement for his or their teaching poor children of the parish of Burgh aforesaid, who should receive alms of the said parish. Also, the interest of another £100 to a schoolmaster of the parish of Orton, for teaching children of the parish not receiving relief. Also, the interest of another £30 to the schoolmasters of the parishes of Beaumont, Kirkandrews-on-Eden, and Grinsdale, share aud share alike, if more than one, for teaching the children of these parishes who should not receive relief. Also, the interest of other £50 to the schoolmaster teaching school in the townships of Harraby, Carlton, aud Brisco, share and share alike, if more than one. Also, the interest of other £100 to the schoolmaster of Blackball. The several sums above mentioned were invested in the year 1787, by the trustees, in the purchase of stock in the Three-per-cent Consols, at 77J, thus producing, for every £100 so laid out, £3 17s. yearly, which rate of interest is paid regu- larly every year, on the 1st of May, to the diflerent parishes entitled to receive the benefit of these dona- tions. Troiitheck's Charity. — Robert Troutbeck, by will, proved Cth June, 1700, gave to the poor of Bowuess £30, the interest thereof to be distributed every year by a Troutbeck or the minister and churchwardens for the year. This sum was laid out in the purchase of about three acres of land at Wigton, which produces about £13 a year. The rent is distributed about Easter, every year, by the minister and church- wardens, amongst poor persons not receiving parish relief. BOWXESS PARISH. 151 Port Carlisle, formerly Fisher's Cross, is a village within the township, situated near the junction of the Eden and the Esk with the Solway Frith, twelve miles north-west of Carlisle. Less than thirty years ago it contained only two houses, Kirkland House, and a small inn, called the " Binnacle." It has now grown to a respectabh'-sized village, and possesses an hotel, inns, and good accommodation for sea bathers, by whom the place is much frequented. It is connected with Carlisle by a railway, an account of which will be found at page 03 ; previous to the construction of the railway a canal joined the two places. The Solway Frith has been well buoyed and lighted, and a consider- able trade is carried on with Belfast, Liverpool, and other ports. The depth of water at the entrance of the port is 18 feet 6 inches. There is a private school in the village, under the direction of the rector of the parish. At Port Carlisle is a mound resembling an ancient British Barrow, called Fisher's Cross. About half a mile to the westward of it is another, which has been somewhat encroached upon by the road that runs along the margin of the Solway, and is denominated Knock's Cross. The proverb is common throughout Cumber- land, "As old as Knock's Cross." In the front of the Steampacket Hotel, Port Carlisle, is built up the frag- ment of a small Roman altar, bearing the inscription, " Svis Matribus." It is one of the numerous instances that we meet with along the line of the Roman wall, of altars dedicated to the Dea Matres. Between Port Carlisle and Bowness the site of the Roman wall may be traced nearly the whole way ; not imfrequently the foundations of it and its fosse may be discerned. In one place some large stones resembling those used in forming the gateways of the mile castles will be noticed. Anthorn township contained in 1801, 170 inhabi- tants; in 181 1,101; in 18'31, 203 ; in 1831, 230; in 1841, 207 ; and in 1851, 211. The soil here is chiefly of a gravelly nature, with a large tract of moss ; 410 acres are called " Ancient land," the rest was enclosed in 1826. This township forms part of the manor of Bowness, of which the Earl of Lonsdale is lord para- mount. The principal landowners are Messrs. John R. Donald, George Donald, John Messenger, John Pape, Thomas B. Topping, John Pattinson, Mrs. Backhouse, and Mrs. Wilson. The village of Anthorn is situated on the north bank of the estuary of the Wampool, about four miles south- west of Bowness. Carduraock is another village in this township, four miles west-south-west of Bowness, on the verge of a tongue of land which terminates the parish. Longcroft is also a vUlage in this township, three miles south by west of Bowness. Hero there is a school, a small plain building, with an average attendance of thirty children. It is under inspection and supported by quarter pence. DEUMBUEGH. The rateable value of this township is £2,3U 10s. 6d. Its population in 1801 was 299; in 1811, 299; in 1821, in consequence of the formation of the canal, it had increased to 418 ; in 1831 it was 384 ; in 1841, 470; and in 1851, 430. The soU is partly fertile, with some mossy barren laud. The Port Carlisle, and Carlisle and SiUoth railways run through this township, and have a station at this village. The principal land- owners here are the Earl of Lonsdale (lord paramount), Mrs. Anua Lawson, Miss T. Lawson, and Messrs. William Borridaile, Edward Barnes, Thomas Lawson, John Lawson, Faulder Lawson, William XLxon, Chris- topher Watson, Thomas Pattinson, John Norman, .John Watson, Joseph Pattinson, Jeremiah Sharpe, and Tho- man Sanderson. Drumburgh contains distinct remains of a small sta- tionary Roman camp. This, if Watch Cross be rejected, I was the sixteenth station of the wall, and consequently the Axelodunum of the Notitia, which was garrisoned by the first cohort of the Spaniards. The camp is on the ground of Richard Lawson, Esq. The ramparts are well defined, as well as the ditch which surrounds them. The whole area is covered with a luxuriant sward, and its northern margin is shaded by some thriving ash trees. No portion of the wall remains in its vicinitj', but its present proprietor remembers witnessing the removal of the foundation. The northern rampart of the station did not come up to the wall, but was removed a few yards from it ; probably, the militaiy way ran between the station and the wall. The station at Barr Hill, on the Aatonine Wall, is similarly situated. South of the station is a well, enclosed by a circular wall of Roman masonry. It is stUl in use, though the water is drawn up from it by a pump. Drumburgh Castle, the ancient seat of the Bruns, lords of Bowness, is a fine specimen of the ancient fortified manor-house. It is built of Roman stones, and now serves as a farmhouse. It appears to have been rebuilt in the reign of Henry VIII. by Thomas, Lord Dacre. John Aglionby, Esq., purchased the demesne of Drumburgh, m the year 1078, of Henry, Duke of Norfolk, and, according to Denton, repaired the castle, which was then in ruins ; some years afterwards he conveyed it to Sir John Lowther, in exchange for Nunnery. 152 CUMBERLAND WARD. The village of Druinburgh occupies a pleasant situa- tion, on an eminence, 3i mile? south-east of Bowness, at the junction of the Port Carlisle and Carlisle and Silloth lines of railway. Hero is a school, erected b\' subscrip- tion and a grant from the National Society, in lft34, at a cost of ±150. It is under government inspection, and is supported by quarter pence and an annual grant of £•20 from W. Hodgson, Esq., of Bowness. The average attendance of children is about 70. In 1849, the Earl of Lonsdale gave £10 for the erection of a gallery, ven- tilation, &c., a part of which -was given to Bowness School. AV. Hodgson, Esq., is about to erect a school here at his own expense. Easton is a hamlet in Drumburgh township, four and a half miles east-by-south of Bowness. The school here, which receives £0 18s. 8d. a year from Thomas Pattin- son's charity, has been closed for some time. Glasson is another hamlet in this township, two miles south-east of Bowness, where there is a small Primitive 3Iethodist chapel, which was erected in 1844, at a cost of about £80. A subterraneous forest was cut through in the e.xcavation of the canal, near the banks of the Solway Frith, about half a mile north-west of this village, and e.'itending into Kirkland. The trees were all prostrate, and they had fallen with little deviation, in a northerly direction, or a little eastward of it. Some short trunks of two or three feet in height were in the position of their natural growth ; but, although the trees, with the exception of the alburnum and all the branches, were perfectly sound, yet the extremity of the trunks, whether fallen or standing, were so rugged, that it was not discoverable whether the trees had been cut down, or had fallen by a violent storm. The level upon which the trunks lay was a little below that of high tides, and from eight to ten feet above the surface of the ground they were embedded in ; which, excepting the super- ficial soil, is a soft blue clay, having the appearance of marine alluvion Although the precise period when the forest fell is not ascertainable, there is a positive proof that it must have been long prior to the building of the wall, because the foundations of the wall passed obliquely over it, and lay three or four feet above the level of the trees. Arch. ^1. ii. 117. The forest extends over a considerable tract of ground. It is probable that it was overthrown by a tempest from the south or south-west, at a time when the sea occupied a lower level than it does at present. The wood was so sound that it was used in common with other oak tim- ber in forming the jetties at the outlet of the canal into the Solway Frith. FISGLAXD. The area of this township is 1801 acres, and its rateable value £1,-524 2s. 6d. The number of inhabi- tants in 1801 was 136; in 1811, 129 ; in 1821, 128; in 1831, 194; in 1841, 187; and in 1851, 236. The Carlisle and Silloth railway intersects the township. The landowners are Mrs. Hodgson, Messrs. William Nixon, Eobert Pattinson, John Hallifax, William and James Corry, William Carr, John Story, Nathan Flolli- day, and William Beaty. Fingland forms part of the manor of Bowness. Whitrigge, in this township, was anciently the property of a family to whom it gave name, one of whose co-heiresses carried it by marriage to the Skeltons. The village of Fingland is five miles south-south-east of Bowness. The hamlet of Whitrigge is situated on the north bank of the Wampool, three miles south-by-east of Bowness. The school is a neat stone building, erected by sub- scription and a grant from the School Building Society about the year 1844 ; it is under government inspection, supported by quarter pence and private subscriptions, and has an average attendance of forty pupils. BURGH - UPON - SANDS PARISH .' This parish is bounded on the north by the river Eden and PioekcliiT parish, on the west by Bowness, on the south by Orton and Kirkbampton, and on the east by Beaumont. It includes the townships of Burgh-upon-Sands, Long- burgh, Bonstead Hill, anciently Burghstead Hill, and Moorhouse and Thurstonfield, whose united area is 7,830 acres. Burgh Marsh is a stinted pasture of about 1400 acres of alluvial soil, extending from Old Saudsfield to a brook called Fresh Creek in the township of Boustead Hill. Also Burgli-le-Souils, and Burgli-by Snuds. BURGH-UPON-SANDS PARISH. 153 BURGH-UPON-SANDS. ' The population of this township in 1801 was 320; in 181], 357; in 1821, 499; in 1831, 457; in 1841, 512; and in 1851, 541. The inhabitants are princi- pallj yeomen, who reside in the village of Burgh-upon- Sands and a few detached dwellings. They attend the Carlisle markets. The soil here is very fertile, con- sisting of good vegetable mould. The township is intersected by good public roads, and by the Carlisle and Silloth and Port Carlisle railways, a station on which is situated at Burgh, and also a depot for coal and lime. In Horsley's day the remains of the ramparts of the Roman Wall were to be seen at a place called Oldcastle, a little to the east of the parish church. He says, "On the west side these remains are most distinct, being about six chains in length ; and Severus"s Wall seems to have formed the north rampart of the station. I was assured by the person to whom the field belonged that stones were often ploughed up in it, and lime with the stones. Urns have also frequently been found here. T saw, besides an imperfect inscription, two Roman altais lying at a door in the town, but neither sculptures nor inscriptions are now visible upon them. If, besides all this, we consider the distance from the last station at Stanwis, I think it can admit of no doubt but there must have been a station here, though most of its ramparts are now levelled, the field having been in tillage many years. I shall only further add, that it was very proper to have a station at each end of the marsh, which, if the water flowed as high as some believe, would make a kind of bay." At present little meets the eye of the inquirer to inform him of the spot where the station stood, but when the surface of the ground is broken, the traces of a Roman city are still sufficiently distinct. The churchyard is filled with fragments of red sandstone blocks. At the depth of two feet it contains several distinct lines of foundations. Entire lachrymatory vessels, and fragments of unglazed jars and uits, and glazed bricks for the pavement of baths, have repeatedly been dug up. A small bronze figure was recently found. When the canal was cut, blocks of stone, blackened by smoke, were dug out of the soil to the south-east of the church. A few in- scribed stones have been found since Horsley's day, but none of them name the cohort which was stationed in the camp. Hence we have no means of knowing whether Burgh is, as Horsley states it to be, the A.xelo- dunum of the Notitia, or Congavata, according to the iThis township comprises Burgh Head and West End, formerly two independent townships, but owing to the difficulty of defining the boundaries of each, they are now united. opinion of Hodgson. Among the Roman altars which have been found here there is one inscribed " deo belatvca;" another, "dec belatvcadro posvit araii PEG SE ET svis ;" a third, " alatvn . . kpo s. CENSORINVS SALVTE SVA . . ES ET POS." Near to Burgh is the site on which the castle of Sir Hugh de ilorville formerly stood. The adjoining field is called " Hang-man-tree," doubtless because the lord had his gallows here always ready for use. A neigh- bouring enclosure bears a designation not less ominous, " Spillblood Holme." After the Conqueror had given the county of Cum- berland to Ranulph de Meschines, the latter divided the same into seven baronies, of which Burgh is one, and comprises the parishes of Burgh, Bowness, Aikton, Thursby, Orton, Kirkbampton, Kirkandrews-on-Eden, and Grinsdale. It was given by Ranulph de Meschines to his brother-in-law, Robert D'Estrivers, or Trivers, who married a sister of the said Ranulph, and received from his brother-in-law the office of chief forester of Inglewood, which dignity with its liberties and privileges continued to be held by the successive lords of Burgh until Thomas de Multou of Gilsland forfeited the same by joining in the insurrection of Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, in the reign of Henry III. Ibria, the heii-ess of Robert, manied Ranulph Engayne lord of Isell, and with her husband gave Harraby, near Carlisle, to the prior and convent of that city, which gift was confirmed by Hugh de Morrille. Their grand- daughter Ada brought this barony in marriage to Simon de Morville, son of Hugh de Morville, who in the thii-d year of Iving Stephen (1188) was one of the witnesses to the charter of protection then made by David king of Scotland to the monks of Tynemouth. This Simon de Morville, in 1187, gave fifty marks for Engayne's lands. He had issue by his wife two sons, Roger and Richard, the latter of whom in 1069 gave 200 marks to Henry II for liveiy of those lands which he claimed with the daughter of William de Lancaster, and left issue Helena his daughter and heir manied to Roland de Galway. Roger de Morville, the eldest son of Simon, had issue a son and heir, Hugh de Morville, who was one of the four knights who, on December 29th, 1170, assassinated Thomas a Becket, archbishop of Canterbury, before the altar of St. Bene- dict, in his cathedral church,^ "which done," say ' The body of the archbishop was hastily buried in tie ciypt on the 3l3t December. There it remained until the year 1220, when it was transferred with solemn pomp to a splendid shrine, which had been prepared immediately behind the high altar. St. Thomas was canonised by Pope Alexander III., March 3rd, 1173; and although his shrine was destroyed, and his name erased from the Anglican calendar by Henry VIII., no less than sixty-four churches still eiist in England dedicated to him. 154 CUMBEELAND WAED. Nioolson and Burn," they entered the archbishop's stables, and taking his liorses, rode to Knaresburgh iu Yorksliire, (a town belonging to this Hugh,) where they stayed till all the inhabitants were weary of them. Mr. Denton says, the sword that killed Becket was iu his father's time at Isell, which place belonged to the Mornlles as heirs of Engayne ; after that, the said sword remained with the house of Arundel." This Hugh de Jlorville espoused Helewise de Stute\-ille, with whom he received the manors of Kirkoswald and Lazonby ; and in 1 200 he obtained license to enclose the woods in Kirkoswald, as likewise to crenellate his manor house and have a fair once every year with a weekly market. "He also," say the writersjust quoted, "gave the King (John) fifteen marks and three good palfreys to enjoy bis court, with the liberties of toll, theam, infangtheof, fire and water ordeal and all other such privileges as belong to the crown, during the continuance of Helewise his wife in a regular habit." Hugh died without male issue leaving two daughters, Ada and Joan, the former of whom was married twice, the first time during her father's life to Richard son of Eegi- nald de Lucy, lord of Egremont, and afterwards to Thomas de Multon. Joan, the younger, was married after her father's death, to Richard Gernou. Upon the division of Hugh's estates, in 1804, between these his daughtei-s and co-heirs, Richard de Lucy paid a fine of 900 marks and five palfreys for the share of Ada his wife, and the forestership of Cumberland, as fully as the said tenure had been enjoyed by Hugh de Morville ; and Richard Gernon gave 600 marks for liberty to maiTy Joan, with the share belonging to her of the land of which her father had died seised. Two daugh- ters, Amabil and Lucy, were the fruit of Ada's marriage with Richard de Lucy. To her second husband Tho- mas de Multon, she bore a son Thomas de Multon, who became heir to her portion of the Morville estates. This Thomas, in 1231, had hvery of his lands, for which he paid a fine of £10 ; and the forestership of Cumberland also descending to him from his mother, he, in 1252, paid for that dignity 400 marks. He married ilaud, daughter and heir to Hubert de Vaux, baron of Gilsland, and in 1253 obtained for himself and his wife a charter of free warren in all his demesne lands in Cumberland, Yorkshire, Norfolk, and Suffolk ; and that " they and their heirs, after the decease of Maud de "V'aux her mother (then the wife of William Everard) should have free warren in all the demesne lands they held in the counties of Somerset and Devon, being of the dowry of the said Maud the mother, and of the inheritance of Maud the daughter." In 1258 ho was summoned to attend with horse and arms, and to march with the other barons of the north into Scot- land for the purpose of rescuing the King of Scots, who was then a minor, and said to be kept in restraint by his own subjects ; and by another summons he was required to be at Chester on the Monday before the feast of St. John the Baptist (June 24) to restrain the incur- sions of the 'U'elsh. He died in 1268 or 1269, leaving a son and heir Thomas de Multon, who performing homage came into possession of his lands. This Thomas received a considerable accession to his pro- perty on the demise of Helwise de Levingtou, widow of Eustace de Baliol, in 1271, vrhen he was found to be her heir as to the whole manor of Aikton, and the other moiety of Burgh-on-Sands, Kirkoswald, and La- zonby ; all which Eustace de Baliol (having had issue by her which lived for some time) held of her inheri- tance as tenant by the courtesy of England till his death, which happened in 1274, when Thomas de Multon came into possession. He died in 1293, and the estates devolved upon his son and heir Thomas de Multon, who at that time was in the twenty-sixth year of his age ; but be did not enjoy them long, for he died two years afterwards, being then seised of the manor of Denham in the county of Norfolk, as also of the manors of Burgh-upon-Sands and Kirkoswald, also of the barony of Gilsland, and lands iu Santon, Irton, Bolton, and Gosforth, leaving Thomas, his son and heir, thirteen years of age, and Isabel his wife sur- viving, who had for her dowry the manor of Denham, which had been made over to her by transfer of title. Thomas de Multon paid JEIOO for relief, and in 31 Edward I. (1303) served in the wai- with the Scots, and again in 1306. The following year he was ordered to fit himself with horse and arms, and join John de Lan- caster and lugleram de Gysnes, in resisting the incur- sions of the Scots under Robert Bruce. Two years later we find him in the Scottish wars, and again in 1310. In 1310 he obtained for himself and Margaret his wife a special charter fi'om Edward II., by which he was empowered to hold a market weekly on "Wed- nesdays, and two fairs every year, one on the eve, day, and morrow after the festival of Our Lady, the other on the eve, day, and morrow after the festival of Sts. Simon and Jude at Ayshall in Somersetshire ; as also free warren in all his demesne lands at Seven Hampton iu the said county of Somerset, and Pynho iu the county of Devon. He was summoned to ParUament amongst the barons of the realm, from 1297 to 1314 inclusive, and died afte rthe last-named year, lea^'ing issue Margaret, married to Ranulph de Daere, who performing fealty to Edward II., liis wife making proof of her age, came into possession of her estates. Her BURGH-UPON-SANDS PAEISH. 155 uncle William, tbe brother of her father, was, however, the heir male, and held the manor of Lazonby during his life ; but on his death in 1341, the whole of the Multoa estates became centred in her, and by this means became the property of the Dacres, which family received a further large addition of fortune by maniage with the heiress of Greystoke. The eldest branch of the Dacre family terminated in a daughter, to whom descended, with some others, the original estate at Dacre. The other estates, Greystoke, Gils- land, Burgh, &c., were settled upon " a younger branch of the Dacres of the male line, which continued in that name for four descents further, and then that branch ended in coheirs ; for George lord Dacre, in the 1 ] thyear of Queen Elizabeth (1 5G9), dying without male issue, was succeeded by his three sisters, one of whom dying unmarried, the estate came to the two other sisters, Anne the elder, married to Philip earl of Ai-un- del, and Elizabeth the younger, married to the lord William Howard, both of them sons of Thomas duke of Norfolk. The barony of Burgh, in the partition, was allotted to the lady Anne, whose descendant in the fourth generation, Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk. sold the same about 11589, to Sir John Lowther, of Lowther."^ The barony is now held by the Earl of Lonsdale, the present head of the house of Lowther. The customs of the manor of Burgh, as confirmed by a decree of Chancery in 1674, are as follow: — Upon every general fine or change of tenant by death, the tenants pay a twentypenny fine, or two years im- proved value, at the option of the lord : and a thirty- penny fine, or three years improved value, upon every change of tenant by sale or alienation, at the like option. Customary courts are occasionally held here by the Earl of Lonsdale. Most of the tenements are now enfranchised. An ancient and singular custom of holding races on the death of the lord of the mauor is still preserved, when a sUver prize cup is given by the new lord ; the race being restricted to horses bred in the barony. The last of these sports was in 1844, on the accession of the present Earl of Lonsdale. Li addition to the lord of the manor, the landowners ai'e, Mr. George Blaylock, Miss Aglionby, G. H. Oliphant, Esq.; Mr. Johu Norman, Mrs. Moffatt, Mr. Matthews Hodgson, Mrs. J. Hodgson, Mr. Johu Hodgsou. Mr. Samuel Blaylock, Mr. W. Tinnion, Mr. E. LiddeU, and others. The village of Burgh-upon-Sands occupies a fine situa- tion five miles west-by-north of Carlisle, near and along I Nicolson and Bum's Hist Westmorelaud and Cumberland, vol. ii., pp. 216, 219. Hutchinson says the estate was sold in 1685, while Messrs. Lyson state in 1684. the site of the celebrated Roman Wall. In and around the village is a large number of boulder stones, some of them half a ton in weight. They are of granite, and in some distant age have been torn from the summit of Criffel, the hill which lends so much beauty to the land- scape on the northern side of the Solway. On Burgh Marsh, about a mile north of the village, is a monument to the memory of Edward I. — "Malleus Scotorum" — who died there in 1307. It was erected by the Earl of Lonsdale, in 1803, upon the site of an old one, and bears the following inscription : — " omni veneratione PROSEQDENS INCLYTAM EDWARDI PRIlir FAMAM, OPTIMI ASGLI.E REGIS, COLUMNAM HANC HUMIFDSAM DIRUTAMQHE, mC HEPONENDAM CURAVIT GULIELMTIS VICE-COMES DE LOWTHER, Asxo sALUTis MDCccni." Camden tells us that Burgh Marsh, or rather the very estuary of the Solway, was the scene of a fight between the English and Scots. THE CHURCH. Burgh Church, dedicated to St. Michael the archangel, is very ancient, but having undergone great alterations in the course of ages, presents many different styles of architecture — the north entrance is Saxon. The tower is very strongly fortified, the walls on three sides being from six to seven feet thick. The vaulted chamber ou the ground floor is only ten feet by eight, and the en- trance to it from the church is secm-ed by a ponderous iron door, sis feet eight inches in height, with two large bolts e-xactly resembling one remaining at Nawortli Castle. On the north side of the chamber is a very nan-ow opening, or arrow slit, at the end of the recess in the wall, six feet three inches deep ; and on the west side are two such openings, (one of them only three inches wide), with steps leading up to them. At the south-west angle is a stone staircase, leading to the upper chamber, the dimensions of which are 10 feet 9i inches by 11 feet 7i inches. On the east side of the room is an opening into the upper part of the nave of the church, and on the south and west sides ai-e small narrow windows. This tower was probably built in the reign of Edward I., and there can be no doubt that it often served as a place of refuge dming the bor- der w'ars. Man}- hewn stones appear in different parts of the building with the e.xterior surface reticulated, evidently taken from the Roman Wall, or the station the site of the churchyard and church. The church, which was anciently rectorial, was granted by Sir Hugh de Morville, one of the lords of Burgh, to the abbey of Holme Cultram, " for the finding of lights, wine, and other necessaries for the ornament of the church of Holme Cultram. and the service of the altar there." This grant was confirmed by Richard de Lucy, fii'st 156 CUMBERLAND WAHD. husband of Ada, daughter of Hugh de Morville, and afterwards by Thomas de Multon, her second husband, who granted further to the abbot and convent common of pasture in the village of Burgh after the hay and corn should be carried off, and two acres of arable land in Burgh Marsh, and a fishery in Eden, with two nets for every carucate of land which they had in Burgh. Joan de Morville, second daughter of Sir Hugh, confirmed the said grant, for the health of her soul and of the soul of her husband Richard de Genion, of her father, Hugh de Morville, and all her ancestors and successors. The same was likewise confirmed by Pope Innocent IV., who granted to the abbot and convent liberty to apply the revenues of the said church to the use of their own house, for hospitahty and maintenance of the poor, reserving a competent portion for a chaplain to officiate at Burgh. The living is a vicarage, in the patronage of thecrown. Itis valued in the King's Bookatl'5 Is.lljd., hut was certified to the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, at £13 8s., after which, m 1758, it was aug- mented by Joseph LiddeU and Queen Anne's Bounty, with J£400, with which land was purchased. In 1843, the Ecclesiastical Commissioners granted to it £'30, and in the same year the tithes were commuted for a yearly rent-charge of £23, so that the benefice is now worth about £120 per annum. The rectorial tithes, which formerly belonged to a number of lay impropriators, were redeemed by the landowners in 1829, except that portion belonging to Doveuby School, which was also purchased by the proprietors of the soil in 1846, for the sum of £500, so that the whole is now merged in the land. The parish register commences in 1653. Vicars.— Peter, t23i ; Hugh de Hayton, 133T; John de Kerby, 13C8; Kudes de Bavenstonedale, ; John LakessoD, 1369; John de Kane, ; Eichard Garth, 1381; WiUiam Kicholson, 1473 ; Thomas Langton, 1535 ; William Blane, 1581 ; Thomas Story, 1C81; Thomas Ismay, 1739; Harrison, 1786; Robert Walker, 18U0; Wilhara Mark, 1820; John Lowrj-, 1838. The Vicarage is a plain building, adjoining the church. CnARITLES. Vattinson's Charity. — Thomas Pattinson, by will, in 1785, directed that the interest of £100 should be paid annually to the schoolmaster of Burgh, Long Burgh, and Moorhouse, in this parish, as an encouragement for his or their teaching poor children of Burgh, who should not receive alms of the parish. ' The sum of £3 17s., as interest of £100, is paid in equal proportions to two schoolmasters, one at Moorhouse, and the other at Burgh. The trustees send to each school as many ' For the particulars of this charily, see Bowness, page 150. poor children of the parish as the interest will pay for at the usual rate of quarterage. Mrs. Hodgson's School. — The children of parents within the parish of Burgh, not possessed of a real estate of £12 per annum, are entitled to free instruction at the school founded by Mrs. Hodgson, at Wiggonby, in Aiktou parish. ' Hodgson's Charity. — Richard Hodgson, who died about 130 years ago, left £100 to the parish of Burgh, one moiety of the interest thereof to be distributed amongst poor householders of the parish not receiving rehef, and the other moiety to be applied for the edu- cating of poor people's children. The interest of this sum, £4, is divided annually, on Easter Monday, as directed by the testator. Liddle's Charity. — John Liddle, who died in 1804, left £50 in trust, for poor people of the parish of Burgh not receiving parish relief. The interest of this sum, £2, is distributed annually, on Easter Monday, amongst poor householders not receiving assistance from the parish. Mrs. French, Chelsea, grand-daughter of the Rev. Thomas Ismay, has for some years transmitted £3 10s. to be distributed according to her direction at the dis- cretion of the vicar. There are schools for boys, girls, and infants in the parish. There is also a subscription library, supported by about twenty members, and also a Sunday-school library. John Stagg, the author of some poetical pieces in the Cumberland dialect, was a native of this place. At West End, in this township, is a chemical works, about to be removed to Drumburgh Moss, Bowness parish, carried on by Mr. David Dick, who manufac- tures copperas, acids, sulphate of ammonia, &c. BODSTEAD HILL. Boustead Hill township contained, in 1801, a popu- lation of 84 persons; in 1811, 65; in 1821, 80; in 1831, 63 ; in 1841, 74 ; and in 1S51, 73. Its rateable value is £021 18s. The acreage is included in the parish returns. The principal laudowuers are Messrs. Samuel Rigg, W. Nixon, W. Morton, John Faulder, Thomas Rigg, and John Beattio. The village of Boustead Hill is beautifully situated on a rising ground overlooking the Solway Frith, and on the south side of the Carlisle and Port Carlisle Rail- way, two miles west of Biu-gh. LONO BUEGU. The number of inhabitants in this township in 1801 was 106; in 1811, 111; in 1821, 154; in 1831, 118; 1 See Wiggonby School. CROSBY-UPON-EDEN PARISH. 157 in 1841, 124; and in 1851, 127. The rateable value is £857 1 7s. The Roman Wall ran through part of this township. The principal landowners are G. H. Oliphant, Esq.; Messrs. John Hodgson, Robert Hodgson, and Samuel Blaylock ; Miss Robson ; and M. Hodgson, Esq. The soil here is a rich loam, and partly gravel. Long Burgh is intersected by tiie Port Carlisle Radway. The village of Long Burgh is situated one mile west of Burgh, south of the Port Carlisle Railway, and con- tains two private schools. Dykesfield, a hamlet in this to^raship, north of Long Burgh, was long the seat aul property of the family of Dykes, who removed thence to Dovenby. It is now the residence and property of Matthew Hodgson, Esq. On the western side of the hamlet is a common wiiich contains several earthen ramparts and temporary camps. MOOBHOUSE. The population of the township of Moorhouse in 1801, was 264; in 1811, 135; in 1821, 254 ; in 1831, 277; in 1841, 203; and in 1851, 343. Moorhouse possesses light but good soil, and its rateable value is £1,168 10s. The principal landed proprietors here are Major Ewart, I\Iessrs. John Ostell, John Galloway, William and Thomas Stordy, and Robert Lamonby. There are three corn mills in the township and a tannerv. The village of Moorhouse is pleasantly situated about two miles south of Burgh, and contains several neat houses. The school, which is entitled to a moiety of Pattinson's Charity, is in ruins. Moorhouse Hall is a neat structure, the property of Mr. John Galloway, who purchased it of 3Iajor Ewart, and is now the residence of bis son, ]Mr. J. Galloway. The Society of Friends have a meeting house here, a brick building, erected in 1733, adjacent to which is their burial-ground, enclosed by a brick wall, and over the entrance to which is a slab bearing the date 1694.' Thurstonfield is a hamlet in this township, one mile west of Moorhouse, where there is a tannery. 1 Thomas Stordy, who died in 16H4,ana Jonathan Ostel],who died in Ho-O, were natives of this parish, and zealous members of the Society of Friends. Being by law entitled to the impropriation of certain tithes, tliey demised them to the several owners on whose estates they arose, irr. Stordy suffered many persecutions for his attachment to the principles of the society. In 16G2, being at Carlisle Assizes, he went to see some of his friends then in prison in that city, when he was illegally detained by the gaoler, and next day brought before the court. As he refused to take the oath of allegiance then tendered to him, he was committed to prison, and next day sentence of prenmnire passed upon him, which entailed the loss of all his real and personal estates. In consequence of this sentence he was kept a close prisoner at Carlisle for ten years, but was at length released by the king, in ltJ72, and, through the inter- cession of the Earl of Carlisle, his real estate was restored to him. A few years afterwards he fell a victim to a statute of the 23rd of Elizabeth, and, for absenting himself from public worship, was cast into prison, where he died in 16S4. CROSBY-UPON-EDEN PARISH. This parish comprises the townships of High Crosby, Low Crosby, Brunstock, and Walby, whose united area is 3590 acres. It is bounded on the north by Scaleby, on the west by Stanwix, on the south by the river Eden, and on the east by Irthington. A survey has recently been made for the commutation of tithes, but not completed. It may be worthy of remark that a curious boundary, or double fence, exists on the east side of the parish, adjoining the parish of Irthington, known by the name of the " Baron's Dyke," being a division between the barony of Gilsland and the barony of Linstock. The inhabitants, who are engaged entirely in agricultural pursuits, are industrious, cleanly, peaceable, and contented. They generally attend the Carlisle markets. The quality of the soil in the parish is various. Adjoining the river Eden is a rich dry loam, on a gravelly subsoil ; in other parts there are portions of a strong clayey soil, with a portion of moor and meadow. The rateable value of the parish is, at the present time, £'3,392. The military road between Newcastle and Carlisle intersects the parish, and runs nearly parallel \rith the old Roman Wall, which was on the northern side of the parish. This road was formed and completed soon after the rebellion of 1745, for the purpose, according to an old act of parliament, " of keeping a free and open communication between the city of Carlisle and the town of Newcastle-upon-Tyne ; and for the passage of troops, horses, and carriages at all times in the year." A great part of the labour required in the making of this road is supposed to have fallen to the lot of General Wade's army. There are also distinct remains of a Roman road running through the middle of this parish, in a direction of nearly east and west, the same as the present military road, and at a short distance from it. Many old coins have been discovered at various times, but none particularly worthy of notice. This parish possesses no ancient edifices or other objects of antiquarian curiosity, except that a grange is said to have been erected here after Linstock was given to the Church of Carlisle, and that it was called Crosby, on account of its belonging to the Church. It may be remarked that Linstock Castle, in the neighbouring parish of Stanwix, was formeriy the residence of the bishops of Carlisle. 158 CUMBERLAND WARD. I.nw CROSDY. The population of Low Crosby township in 1801 was 150; in 1811, IGl ; in 18-21, 181 ; in 1831, 204; in 1841, 133 ; and in 1851, 148. The soil here is a rich loam. The manor or barony of Crosby, which has always been annexed to Linstock, and which includes the whole of the parish of Crosby -upon -Eden, is vested in the Bishop of Carlisle, to whose predecessors it was assigned by Gualo, the papal legate, on a partition of the estates of the bishop and priory. The other claimants are the Earl of Carlisle ; Mr. Maude, of Sellaby, in Yorkshire ; and the Vicar of Crosby. The Earl of Carlisle's claim would exist during the last ceutury, and long befoi-e, — the vicar's from time immemorial. The other small manor, held by Mr. Maude, has not been long in his possession. Small sums, or lord's rents, are paid an- nually to the lords of the manors just named. The land in tliis manor is nearly all held by customary tenure, except a little of leasehold and freehold. The bishop's court was formerly held in this parish four times a year, but recently only once. The court rolls extend through a long period of time. The principal landowners in the township are Mrs. Saul ; Richard Carruthers, Esq. ; William Nicholson Hodgson, Esq. ; and Thomas Phillips, Esq. The village of Low Crosby stands upon the gently sloping banks of the river Eden, about four miles east- north-east of Carlisle. THE cnnr.cH. The church, dedicated to St. John, occupies the site of the ancient church of Crosby. It was erected in 18.54, at a cost of £1,800. It is a beautiful and sub- stantial structure, in the Gothic style, consisting of nave and chancel, with gallery for organ and choir, and contains about 200 sittings, the greater part of which are free. The living is a vicarage, in the patronage of the Bishop of Carlisle, who has been im- propriator and patron for a long period. It is valued in the King's Book at £7 lis. 4d., but is now worth upwards of £150 per annum. The vicar receives, under commutation, the annual value of the hay and small tithes, together with the rental of the glebe. The whole tithes, great and small, have lately been com- muted for £375. The parish registers commence in 1659. Vicars. — William de Insula, \S03; John Waschip, 1310; Thomas ile Dalston, 1337 ; Robert Merkc, 1353 ; Roger de Ledes, l:!D7; John de Grandon, ; Thomas de Kirkland, 1302; John Fitzroger, ; Robert Caylles, 1379; Elias, ; Simon Gate, 1.077; Thomas Twentyman, ; Tliomas Wil- son, 1585; Thomas Sliaw, 101^; Thomas Milburn, l(i27 ; Richard Welshman, 1035; William HudysoD, ](:39; John Theckston, 1661; Philip Fleming, 166B; Robert Hume, 1670; Nathaniel Bowcy, 1680; Richmond Fenton, 1713; William Gibson, 1730 ; Henry Shaw, 1758 ; Thomas Lowry, U.D., 17!U ; Edward Salkeld, 1832; Joseph Thomlinson, 1838. The Parsonage is a plain structure, situate at High Crosby, rebuilt upwards of fifty yeai's ago. CHARITIES. Jackson's Charitij. — Joseph Jackson, by will proved 13th November, 1773, bequeathed to the overseers of the poor of the parish of Crosby-on-Edeu, £10, the interest of which was to be given to the poor annually in Easter week, at the discretion of the overseers. The interest, amounting to £2, is distributed as directed. Patrickson's Charity. — This is another bequest left by the late Miss Patiickson, the interest of which is distributed to the poor at Christmas. The parish school is a neat stone building in the Elizabethan style, erected by subscription in 1844, at a cost of £350. It is under government inspection, has an average attendance of upwards of 50 scholars, and is supported by voluntary subscriptions, with the interest of a legacy bequeathed by the late Miss Patrickson. Eden Grove, a delightfully- situated villa in this township, is the seat of Richard Carruthers, Esq. Several houses in this parish take their names from the Roman wall, viz.. Wall Head, Walby, Wall Dub ; and fields also bear the names of walls. BRUNSTOCK. Brunstock township contained in 1801, a population of 65; in 1811, 63; in 1821, 53; in 1831, 108; in 1841, 75 ; and in 1851, 70. The land here is fer- tile and good, but rather cold, on a clayey subsoil. The principal landowners are Mrs. Saul, R, S. Dixon, Esq., and Mr. John Forster. The village of Brunstock is about three miles north- north-east of CarUsle. Here stands Brunstock House, the beautiful seat of Mrs. Saul. It is a fine building in the Gothic style, surrounded by excellent grounds, and adds very much to the general appearance of the landscape. Crosby Lodge is also the property of the same lady. HIGH CEOSBT. The population of this township in 1801 was 102 ; in 1811, 134; in 1821, 130; in 1831, 133; in 1841, 146 ; and in 1851, 102. The soil here is partly rich good laud, with some poor, on a gravelly subsoil. The principal landed proprietors are Mrs. Saul, W. X. Hodgson, Esq., M.P., and Rev. Joseph Hudson, Messrs. John Nicholson, Robert Bell, and Mrs. Wright, DAXSTON PAKISH. 159 The village of High Crosby is about half-a-mile east of Low Crosby. Here are the Vicarage House, Crosby Lodge, and Crosby House, the latter of which was erected by the late Rev. Dr. Lowry, vicar of this parish, aud now belongs to his grandson, the Eev. Joseph Hudson. Newby Grange in this township, the seat of William Nicholson Hodgson, Esq., J. P. and M.P., is a handsome building in the Elizabethan style. WALBY. The number of inhabitants in 1801 was 30 ; in 181], 52; in 1821, 40; in 1831, 52; in 1841, 49; and in 1831, 33. The landowners are Messrs. John Jameson, John Thompson, and John Dixou, and Mrs. Saul and Miss Heward. The village of Walby is about four miles north-east of Carhsle. DALSTON PARISH. The parish of Dalston extends about six miles in length by three in breadth. It is bounded ou the north by portions of the parishes of St. Mary and Upperby, on the west by that of Tbursby and Westward, on the south by Sebergham, and on the east by Leath Ward. The soil in general consists of a dry loam, except near the village of Dalston, where it is gravelly, and is mostly " laid down to grass for pasturage and meadow ;" but all kinds of grain thrive well in every part of this .extensive parish. A great part of the arable land lies rather low, with a gentle inclination to the river Caldew. Besides this river the parish is watered with the Piaugh, Ivegill, and Shalk rivulets, and is remarkable for its ancient mansions, foremost amongst -which stands Rose Castle, the seat of the bishops of Carlisle for many centuries. Dalston parish comprises the townships of Dalston, Buckhowbank, Cumdevock, Hawkesdale, Ivegill, and Raughton aud Gatesgill, whose united area is 15,(572 statute acres. other shall have such liberty without their permission ; and shall hold the said manor as a forest, as the king held the same before the said grant. The said bishop and his successors to find one canon regular to say mass every day in the Church of St. Mary, Carlisle, for the souls of the king, and of his father, and all his ancestors and successors." And, by another charter, the same monarch further grants, " that if they, or any person with their permission, shall chase any game within their forest of Dalston, and the said game shall liy into the king's forest, they may pursue aud take the same within the king's forest, and return without the moles- tation of the king's foresters, or other officers." In the reign of Edward I. this manor was claimed against the bishop, in a writ of right, by Michael de Hercla, who grounded his pretensions upon his descent from an heiress of the elder branch of the Dalston family, but without success. The barony of Dalston comprises the parish of Dalston, and the manors of Great Dalston, Little Dalston, Cardew, High Head, and Raughton and Gatesgill. The north part of the barony, which is in the parish of St. Marj', Carlisle, was assigned to the prior, and now forms the manor of John de CapeUa, belonging to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, who have succeeded to the manors, &c., of the dean and chapter of Carlisle. The manor of Great Dalston com- prises the principal portion of the parish, and is a mixed manor, consisting of freehold, copyhold, aud customary The population of this township in 1801 was 701 ; in 1811, 914; in 1821, 953; in 1831, 1109; in 1841, 1024; and in 1851, 1022. Its rateable value is £1783 15s. 9d. The Maryport and Carlisle Railway intersects the township. The barony of Dalston was given by Eanulph de Meschines to a brother of Hubert de Vallibus, of Gils- land, named Robert, who thereupon assumed the name of Dalston, and it continued in the possession of his descendants till King Stephen gave Cumberland to David of Scotland, when the latter gave it to Henry Morison. It was, however, subsequently seized by Henry II. as an escheat, and remained in the posses- sion of the crown till the year 1228, when Henry III. gave to Walter, Bishop of Carlisle, and his successors in the see for ever, " the manor of Dalston, with the advowson of the church there, with sac and soke, and woods and mills, and all other appurtenances ; to hold the same disafforested, with power to assart "^ and make enclosures, and dispose of the wood at their will and pleasm-e, without the view and interruption of his foresters, verderers, regarders, or other officers ; and that they shall be free from suits, and summonses, and pleas of the forest ; and have liberty to hunt and take deer and other game within the said manor, and no > From the old French assarter, to grub up trees. ICO CUMBERLAND WARD. tenements, with some leaseholders for life. The wife of a copyhold or customary tenant in this manor cannot be deprived of her dower by the husband selling or sur- rendering his estate, unless she join in such surrender. On the failure of male issue, the daughters of tenants inherit equally as coparceners. The principal land- owners here are Mrs. Pdchardson, Jlrs. Cowen, Joseph Piichardson, &c. The village of Dalston is large and populous, occu- pying a pleasant situation on the picturesque banks of the Caldew, about four miles south-by-west of Carlisle, and has a weeldy market for flesh on Fridays. An ancient cross, raised on several steps, and bearing several coats of arms, formerly stood at the east end cf the village ; it was, however, removed in 1815. THE CHtJBCH. Dalston Church, dedicated to bt. Michael, is a neat and substantial structure, consisting of nave, chancel, and small transept, on the south-east. It contains a handsome font by BiUinge, and a flue organ presented by George Cowen, Esq., in 1847. In the chancel there is a handsome marble monument to the memory of the late Rev. AV. Fletcher, M.A., for thirty-two years chan- cellor of the diocese of Carhsle, and vicar of this parish for fifty-three years. He died April 1st, 1856, aged 79. The monument is by Watson of Loudon, a native of this place, and contains a fine bust of the deceased. There is also a handsome tablet to the memory of the late Mrs. Salkeld, of Holm Hill. In the churchyard there is a monument to the late bishop of Carlisle, Dr. Percy, who died in February, 1856, and was buried here. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the King's Book at £S 18s. l^d.; but after the Restoration, it was augmented with corn tithes to the amount of £30 a year, and with a legacy of £300 left by Bisliop Smith, which was expended in the purchase of land adjoining the Vicarage, so that the living is now worth about £300. The great tithes of Dalston are appro- priated to the Bishop of Carlisle, who is patron of the living. Eectoks.— Amerio Theotald, 3203; Robert Pickering, 1204; John de Drockenford, 1292. VicAKs.— Gilbert de Derington, 1300 ; John de Carlisle, 1310; Henry Hand, ; Richard Asklaby, 130C ; Roger de Ledes, 1358; John Middletou, 1309; John del Marsh, J37I; John de Alanby, 1378 ; John Mayson, 1378 ; George liewley, ; Mark Edgar, 1570; Thomas Nicholson, 1&80; Robert Collier, 1598; Willinm Griffith, ; Edward Baker, 1812; Richard Garth, 1001; John Walker, 1083; Thomas Benson, J714; William Nicholson, 1727; John Story, 1731; William Paley, archdeacon of Carlisle, 1770; Walter Fletcher, 1793; John ■\Voodham Dunn, 1818; R. H. Howard, 1853. The Vicarage is a plain but neat building, close by the church, and has lately been enlarged and improved. The Wesleyan Association Methodist Chapel is a small building, erected in 1851, at a cost of £250. It wiU accommodate about 300 hearers, and is attended by local preachers and the Carlisle ministers. There is a Sunday-school held in connection with this chapel. The Grammar School was erected by subscription in 1815, and is open to all the children of the parish at a low quarterage. This school appears to have been founded at an early period, but part of the original en- dowment was lost during the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. From an account entered in a book belong- ing to this parish, called the School Book, it appears that there was, in 1663, the sum of £108 15s. 6d., the interest of which was applied as the salary to a school- master. In the year 1673, the school stock is entered as £110 15s. 6d.; and the following additions have sub- sequently been made by benefactions given expressly for the increase of that stock: — 1078, by Bishop Ptainbow, £10 ; 1684, Mrs. Elizabeth Rainbow (widow of the bishop), £5 ; 1085, John Rayson, £2 ; 1094, 1095, two gifts made by Bishop Smith, £30 ; 1703, Madam Rainbow, £10 ; making in the whole, £167 15s. 6d. About the year 1703 there appears to have been paid towards the expenses of recovering part of this school stock, wliich was in the hands of one George Denton, £29 15s. 6d., leaving a balance of £138. This sum was afterwards reduced by expenses in repairing the school-house to £110, which was invested in the funds. In 1808 the stock was sold out for £120 10s. 4 jd., and out of that money £10 10s. 4id. was e.xpcnded in enclosing an allotment made to the school, and £50 was added to a sum amounting to nearly £300, raised by subscription for the building of a new school-house. These expenses reduced the school stock to £00, which was placed out at interest. In addition to tlie £30 above mentioned. Bishop Smith, by indenture, dated March 22nd, 1096, gave to this school a cottage, and about seven acres of land in Hawkesdale, in this parish, and he also built a scliool-room at his own expense. About the year 1 800, on the enclosure of the common land, in this parish, an allotment of two acres was made to the school, in pursuance of a clause in the enclosure act, which directed that a parcel of ground should be set out for the erection of a school-house for the parish and manor of Dalston. In 1847, the sum of £200 was left to this school by Mrs. Fletcher and Mrs. Hodgson, executrixes of the late Chancellor Fletcher, who was the surviving trustee to the will of John Tiffin of Brownelson, whereby a sum of money was at his disposal for charitable purposes. The National School is held in the old Methodist Chapel, erected in 1825, and is under the patronage of DALSTON PARISH. 161 the vicar, who rents the chapel for the purpose. It •will accommodate over 100 scholars, the average atten- dance is about 90. There is a Working Men's Readiug-Koom here, which was established in 1848, and numbers about fifty mem- bers, who subscribe one penny per week, for which sum they have the use of a library containing about 400 volumes, and a daily and local newspapers. The entire management is in the hands of working men. CHABIIIES. Benson's Charity. — Dr. Benson, who died about the year 17a6, bequeathed £50 to the poor of this parish. The legacy was received in the following year, and, about 1798, it was invested in the funds. In 1808, this stock was sold for £54 IGs., which sum was placed out at interest. It amounts now to £65 19s. 4d., three-per-cents, which is distributed annually by the minister and churchwardens amongst poor persons of the parish. Strong's Charity. — Mary Strong, who died in 1814, left by will to the Rev. Walter Fletcher, and his suc- cessors, vicars of Dalston, £100, to be placed out, and the interest to be for ever applied to the instruction of poor girls of the parish. It has been since increased to £171 5s. 3d. The vicar is trustee for this charity. There are two other charities, viz.: — Thomlinson's Charity {or the poor, £27 13s. 5d. three-per-cents; and Tiffins Charity for the poor, £100 three-per-cents, — the interest of which is distributed at Christmas. Hutchinson tells us " there was a hermitage near Dalston ; the recluse, in 1343, who occupied it, was called Hugh de Lilford ; but where his cell was, or when, or by whom it was iirst constructed, there is no record or tradition to point out." It seems that there was a chapel appertaining to it, dedicated to St. Wynemius the Bishop, and indulgences were granted by Bishop Kirby, about the year 1343, to all such as should give any money, books, or vestments for the repair, &c., of the chapel. At some distance from the parish church, in a deep and romantic part of the vale of Caldew, surrounded by rock and hanging woods, there is a field called Chapel Flat, which is commonly sup- posed to have been the site of this chapel. There was formerly a circle of rude stones, ten yards in diameter, near the village, supposed to have been the remains of a Druidical temple ; and, at a little distance from it, was a tumulus, three yards high and eight in diameter. In the rich vale of Dalston there was a large earthen embankment, called a bar, or barrow, extending from Dalston Hall to Cumdevock, a distance of three miles, raised for the purpose of protection against the incursions of the moss troopers. Near this embankment several " bar houses " were erected, and occupied by people whose duty it was, on the approach of the enemy, to give an alann by the ringing of bells and blowing of trumpets, on the sound of which the inhabi- tants drove their cattle, &c., behind for safety. The manor of Little Dalston belonged, from an early period, to the ancient family of Dalston, descended by a younger branch from Robert de VaUibug, to whom the barony of Dalston had been granted by Ranulph de Meschincs. Sir William Dalston, the immediate descen- dant, a zealous royalist, was created a baronet in 1640. The title and the male line of the elder branch of this ancient family became extinct by the death of Sir George, the fifth baronet, in 1765. Four years before his death he sold his estate at Dalston to ilonkhouse Davison, Esq., after whose demise it was purchased, in the year 1795, by John Sowerby, Esq., and is now the property of Colonel Sowerby. Dalston Hall, at present a farmhouse, is a very ancient castellated structure, but the date of its erection cannot be ascertained ; the chapel is now used for some of the purposes of the farm. Dalston Hall was the head quarters of General Lesley during the siege of Carlisle in 1644 and 1645. BUCKHOWB.iSK. This township contained in 1801, 493 inhabitants; in 1811, 471 ; in 1821, 570 ; in 1831, 668 ; in 1841, 636 ; and in 1851, 676. Its rateable value is £2,696 4s. The manorial rights of that part of the township in the manor of Great Dalston, are vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, and those of the portion in Little Dalston manor in Colonel Sowerby. The prin- cipal landowners are Thomas Salkeld, Esq., Colonel Sowerby, Rev. Mr. Parker, Mr. George Robinson, and Mrs. Richardson. Here are two com-miUs, one carried on by Mr. Bewley of Carhsle, the property of Mrs. Cowen, and the other by Mr. Gibson, the property of Colonel Sowerby. There are three cotton-mills, two carried on by J. Cowen and Sons, and the other by Messrs. Johnson and Dover. There are besides a saw-mill and iron-forge, the pro- perty cf G. Cowen, Esq., and carried on by Mr. John Dover; at this forgo, which was established in 1756, are manufactured agricultui'al implements of a superior description. There is also a flax-mill, carried on by Mr. Arthur Parker, who is also a canvas manufacturer. Brownelson, two farms in this township, were for- meriy given to the priory of Cailisle by Henry Dalston, the second of that family who resided at Dalston Hall. Unthank and Lingley Close Head are two small hamlets in this township. 162 CUMBERLAND WARD. This township, a suburb of Dalstou village, is partly oa the east side of the Caldew, and partly on the west side. ICMDEVOCK. The population of Cumdevock in 1801 was 283 ; in 1811. 815 ; in 1821, 333 ; in 1831, 348 ; in 1841, 361; and in 1851, 337. The soil here is generally good loamy land, and the rateable value is £2, 1 90. The principal landowners are the Earl of Lonsdale, Mrs. Thomliuson, Messrs. Robert Blamire, John Guard- house, WiUiam Dobinson, T. K. Atkinson, — Dixon, John lliclurdson, John Armstrong, and several small owners. The manor of Cardew in this township belonged, at an early period, to a family who took their name from the place. In the reign of Edward I. it became the property of John Burdon, who in default of issue from Ids son of the same name, entailed it on John Denton and his wife Ivan, the heiress of Kirkbride and his heirs. This John Denton is said to have distinguished himself in the service of Edward BaUol, who gave him as a crest, a castle burning with a flaming sword in a lion's paw, which was afterwards borne by his family, for defending a castle in Annandale against Robert Bruce. In 1686 George Denton, Esq., sold the manor of Cardew to Sir James Lowther, Bart., from whom it has descended to the present Eai'l of Lonsdale. The customary tsnants of the manor were enfranchised iu 1672, by George Denton, Esq., who reserved only a small quit rent and the royalties. Cardew Hall, long the seat of the Dentons, is now a farmhouse. Here resided Mr. John Denton, whose voluminous MS. History of Cumberland has proved of the greatest service to all those who have taken an interest in the history and antiquities of this county. The village of Cumdevock is about one and a half miles south-west of Dalstou. Cardew Lees is a hamlet in this township, one and a half miles north-west of Dalstou, and is included in the manor of Parton. The Gill, another hamlet, is jiartly iu this and partly iu Hawkesdale township, cue mile south-west of Dalstou, near to which is Thomliuson Lodge, a neat buildmg iu the Elizabethan style, erected about twenty years ago. Sbalkfoot is also a hamlet iu this township, two and a half miles west of Dalston. In this hamlet there is a school for boys and girls, built by the parishes of Wcstwai-d and Dalston, iu 1780. It is a small stone building, capable of accommodating about thirty chE- dren. The brook, at the foot of which this place stands, aud which is variously called Shulkbeck, Shawkbeck, Chalkbeck, and Chokebeck. runs into a level bog, two miles long, and a quarter of a mile broad, formerly consisting of reeds aud bulrushes, but latterly, by a judicious system of drainage, converted into arable and pasture land. The rivulet rises on Warnel Fell, aud divides this parish from that of West- ward, and, joining Loughbeck, they together take the name of Wampool. On its rugged and rocky banks are the Shalk quarries, where three different beds of stone are wrought, viz., one of red freestone, of an open grit ; another of very white freestone, of a close body ; aud a seam of limestone. The extent of the workings, the quality of the stone, and an inscription on one of the cliSs, clearly prove that the Romans obtained materials here for the erection of that part of the wall westward from Carlisle. There is, on an overhanging cliff, seven or eight yards above the rivulet, the following Roman iuscription : — LEG. n. AVO. . MILITES PE. . . . coH. m. coH. nn. which has been read, " legionis secundjs adgust.e MILITES POSDEECNT COHORS TERTIA COHOES QUARTA." The cliff formerly rose several yards above the inscrip- tion, and was called Tom Smith's leap, from a person of that name having thrown himself over the precipice to avoid being taken prisoner, and was killed on the rocks beneath. Christ Church, Carlisle, has been buUt of stone from these quarries. About a quarter of a mile south from this place, is a sulphurous spring, rising from a bed of grey Umestone. The Green Quar- ries have yielded large quantities of excellent red slates. Lady's Hill Quarry is on the west side of the stream, in 'Westward parish ; and here are extensive old work- ings, in which there were once a few stones with Roman names upon them. Cunning-garth appears to have been a Roman intreuchment, and near the quarries are several ancient barrows, one of w-hich bore the name of Toddle Hill ; it was forty yards in diameter, aud seven yards high. Several urns, containing ashes, skulls, bones, &c., have been found on this hiU, which has been entirely taken away for the reparation of the roads and for building purposes. HAWKESDALE. The population of Hawkesdale township m 1801 was 321 ; in Isll, 376 ; in 1821, 336 ; iu 1831, 427 ; in 1841, 411; aud iu 1851, 353. The rateable value is .£3,437 10s. 8d. The soil here is chiefly loam by the river side, on the high ground clayey iucumbeut on a red sandstone. The manorial rights are vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, who, with Thomas Salkeld, Esq. ; 'Wm. Blamire, I'^sq. ; J. J. Watts, Esq. ; Messrs. DALSTON PAEISH. 163 Robert Twentyman, and John Bunting, are the prin- cipal landowners. The township extends along the west side of the Caldew, from one to three miles south of Dalston. Rose Castle, the episcopal palace of the see of Car- lisle, is situated in this township, in a pleasant vale near the river Caldew, about seven miles south by west of Carlisle. From having been repaired at different times, according to the prevalent architectural taste, it has assumed a somewhat incongruous appearance, when compared with its original castellated style. The castle presents a fine mass of towers built on the north side of the vale, suiTouuded by hanging gardens that rise, terrace above terrace, up to the level lawn upon which it stands. It is not certain that this castle occupies the site of the ancient baronial mansion of Dalston, though there is every probability that it does, and such is the generally received opinion. In 1300, Edward I., while prosecuting his claim to the Scottish crown, resided for a few days at Rose Castle, and after the termination of the siege of Carlaverock, we find him here again, when he was joined by his queen. During his residence here, he received a communication from the Pope respecting the affairs of Scotland, which seems to have been the principal cause of his summoning his parliament to meet him at Lincoln, in the following February. The writs for this parliament are dated Apud la Rose, September 25th and SOth, 1800. In 132'2, the baronial mansion of Rose, in which the bishops of Carlisle now occasionally resided on account of the numerous attacks to which Linstock was exposed, was burnt by the Scots under Bruce. Some years later it again suffered from the same enemy, in consequence of which Bishop Kirby, in 1336, obtained a royal license to casteUate his manor-house at Rose; and from this time it is known in all documents, &c., as Rose Castle. As built by Bishop Kirkby, the castle formed a quadrangle, encompassed by a rampart and ditch, and such continued to be its form till the seventeenth cen- tury, numerous additions, however, having been made to it in the interval, by successive bishops. These additions consisted of a tower, built by Bishop Strick- land, another by Bishop Bell, and a third by Bishop Kyte. " The north side of the quadrangle," says Jeffer- son, "consisted of the Constable's Tower, the chapel, Bell's Tower, a chamber called the council chamber, with one chamber under it, denominated Great Para- dise, and Strickland Tower, containing together sixteen rooms. On the east side were situated the great dining-room, kitchen, buttery, with lodging rooms and cellars. The south side contained a long gallery lead- ing to the hall, and a variety of store rooms and domestic offices, with two or three little tuiTCts. The west side contained Pettenger's Tower,' and Kyte's Tower, and various other rooms; the total number of apartments appears to have exceeded sixty. The stables and coach-house were enclosed within the mantle wall or rampart, in the outer court; this wall was defended by a number of turrets placed at intervals upon it. In the centre of the inner court or quad- rangle, was a fountain, which conveyed water to aU the offices of the house. No historical events of any interest in reference to the castle are recorded between the time of Bishop Kirby and the period of the parlia- mentary wars, during which few fortresses remained unscathed, and Piose being held in 1643, by Mr. Lowther, the constable of the castle, with about twenty or thirty men, was attacked and taken by a party of Colonel Heveringham's regiment, and for some time served as a prison for the royalists. In 1648 it was again garrisoned by a company of royalists, amounting to forty men, and was attacked by a detachment of General Lambert's army. The governor, though twice summoned, would not surrender, being determined to hold out as long as possible : but after sustaining an assault of two hours, the castle was taken by stoi-m, and was afterwards burnt by order of Major Cholmley, who appears to have been in command of the detach- ment. A few weeks after this event, the army of the Duke of Hamilton, which had been raised in Scotland for the King's service, was here joined by Sir Marma- duke Langdale's forces. The survey of Rose Castle, made by order of the parliament in 1649 or 1650, describes it to be in a state of great decaj', and values the materials for sale at £425. Mr. Heveringham, who possessed a moiety of the manor during Cromwell's time, fitted up the office for his own residence. When Bishop Rainbow came to the see in 1664 no part of the house was habitable. He built a few rooms for immediate use, and was obliged to rebuild the chapel, which had been insufficiently built by his predecessor. Bishop Smith built the tower adjoining the staircase, and by him and his immediate successor- the house was again rendered a comfortable habitation. Bishop Lyttleton repaired Strickland Tower, built a new kitchen and other offices, and made great improvements in the habitable part of the house. Several alterations conducive to comfort and convenience have since been made, and the external and internal appearance of the castle much improved. In ancient times every bishop of Carlisle was obliged to leave for his successor a certain number of books of cUvinity and canon law, ■ "There is a tradition that one Pettenger hanged himself in this tower, hence its name." — Nicokon and Bum. 164 CUMBEllLAND WARD. 104 oxen, 10 heifers, and other live stock in proportion." The castle, as it appeai-s at present, occupies only the north and west sides of the quadrangle, the other two sides not having been restored since their destruction in the civil wars. Its present state is owing iu a great mea- sure to the exertions of the late bishop. Dr. Percy, who made every effort to restore the castle to a complete state, and to render it worthy of its ancient name. Notwithstanding the repairs which had taken place under his lordship's predecessors, the edifice was in a very dilipidated state when Dr. Percy was raised to the see in 1827 ; the floors were rotten, the roofs gave little or no protection against the weather, and the exterior presented a strange mixture of styles, according to the periods at which the several portions were erected or restored. The bishop, in 1829, commenced a complete renovation of the entire edifice, and under the guidance of Messrs. Rickman and Hutchinson, the castle was com- pletely restored in the style that prevailed when Strick- land's Tower, the oldest part of the castle remaining, was erected. With the exception of this tower, together with those of Bishops Bell and Kyte, and Pettenger's tower, which form an inconsiderable part of the buil- ding, the castle was entirely renewed. A new range of offices was also erected on the western side, to supply the place of those which existed previous to the wars of the pai-liament. A new tower, called Percy's Tower, was also added to the north-west angle of the main building. The ancient gateway and mantle wall with its turrets still remain. The entrance door of the house, is at the point where the Constable's Tower stood, and is secured by a large and curious lock, presented to the castle by Ann Countess of Pembroke, which bears the inscription A. P. 1673. The stair- case is an elaborate and extremely elegant structm-e, composed of polished oak, with a private balustrade, consisting of cinque foils, charged iu the centre with the armorial bearings of the see, and those of the bishop alternately. On the staircase is a full length porti'ait of Bishop Smith, and a half-length of Ann Countess of Pembroke. The chapel, which occupies the north side of the house, and has beneath it the bishop's libraiy and study, is 44 feet iu length, by 22 in breadth. It is hghted by four large windows on the south side, and one at the east end, all filled with tracery in the Perpendicular style ; the carved panels of the stalls were brought from Lambeth Palace, where they had been used for a similar purpose by Cardinal Pole in the sixteenth century. At the north-east angle of the chapel is a door con- ducting to the chaplain's apartment, in Bell's Tower, which contains the small library belonging to the see. To the east of the chapel was formerly the apartment called Great Paradise, covered by a massive curtain wall uniting Bell's Tower with Strickland's. The latter is a square tower now detached, situated at the north-east angle of the house, and was formerly the keep or donjon of the castle ; its form is similar to most of the border peel -houses, consisting of three apartments; of these the lower one is vaulted, aud has walls seven ! feet thick; the staircase leading to it commenced at ! the end of a narrow passage, ou a level with the first floor. The apartments on the first floor, which, from its ruinous state, is open to the roof, has, at its south- east gable, a piscina which renders it probable that the apartment was used as a chapel. In a closet at the same angle of the second floor, which is reached by a dilapidated staircase, is a small opening about a foot square cut or left in the substance of the wall, running down to the dungeon, and supposed to have been used either for conveying food to the prisoners there con- fined, or for overhearing their conversation. The west side of the building contains the principal apartments of the castle. The dining and drawing- rooms are spacious and elegant, the two mantle-pieces in each of them contain some fine carving, and the oriel windows, looking into the quadrangular court, towards the river, command an extensive prospect, and on the exterior have a very fine appearance. The older portions of the castle are thickly mantled with ivy, and on the cornice of the tower erected by Bishop Bell, is just visible, the emblematical device of a bell with the initials, r. b. Hawkesdale Hall, many years the property and residence of the Nicolson family, is now in a very dilapidated state. A monument on the outside of the chancel of the parish church of Dalston, commem- orates several members of this family. Holme Hill, many years the residence of the family of Holme, passed to George Holme Summer, Esq., M.P., and having been since sold, is now the property of the Salkelds. Sttatfs flf ^:ibhcsbale gjnll. This family claims descent from the old Yorlishire house of Le Fleming, of AValh. From an ancient pedigree it appears that Sib John i.e Flemino, lord of Wath, on Deam, co. Yort, who died 14 Edward 11., left, by Joan his wife, daughter of Walter de Fauconberg, three sons, viz., Thomas, of Wulh and Dearn, ancestor of the Flemings of Wath, whose eventual heiress married Savillc, of New Hall. Eaineb, of whose descendants we treat. Lambert, a Knight Templar, nut to death at Paris, with the Grand Master, by order of Philip le Bel. DALSTON PARISH. 165 The second sod. Raineb I.E FLEjnxo, called " Eainer de Wath, Chevalyr," was in the Scottish wars in the retinue of Lord Percy. He married Ada, daughter and heir of Thomas de Bethune, and had, with other issue, a second son, Simon de Wath, who married Alice, daughter and coheir of John de Eston, and was father of John de Wath, or Wathes, who possessed, jure inatris, a moiety of Eston, co. Worcester, and considerable landed pro- perty in Yorkshire, temp. Edward III. He married Emran, daughter of Sir Hugh Golofre, and was succeeded by his son, William Wathes, of Eston, living l-SOT, who married Blanche, daughter of William de Wellesburne, and had a son, Sm Thomas Wathes, of Eston, who served in the French wars, and is frequently mentioned in the Acts of the Parliament of Paris as " Sir Thomas Wathes de Eston," and as " Sir Thomas d'Eston, Chevalier Anglaise." He had a grant from Henry V. of the seigneury of Langeais, on the Loire, and other property in France, the forfeited possessions of the Vicomte de Brosse, who had deserted the English faction. Sir Thomas married Isabeau, daughter of Bertrand Goyon, seigneur de Jlatignon, and widow of Amhoise, Vicomte de Thouars; and dying 1424, left a son, Simon Wathes, of Eston, 7 Henry \1., 1428. He married Margery, daughter and heir of Thomas de Stotesbury of \lihit- field, CO. Northampton, and left a son. Sir Richard Wattys, who fought under the banner of York at Wakefield, where he fell, or died soon after the conflict, of his wounds, leaving by his wife Isabel Stafford, a son and heir, Thomas Wativs, who was plaintiff in an action-at-law against William de Stotesbury, William de Lovett, and others, for the recovery of the manor of Whitfield, in the last year of the reign of Henry VI., 1401. By his wife, Alice, heiress to an estate at Beby, co. Leicester, he had issue, I. John, heir. II. Richard, who had a son, Richard, and two daughters, Mary, the wife of George Gage, of Raundes, in the co. Nortliampton, and Joan, die wife of Gervas Astley. III. Thomas, the father of John, from whom descended tlie family of Watts, seated in Norfolk. I. Elizabeth, the wife of Richard Osborne. t The eldest son, John Wattes, of Beby, co. Leicester, married twice. By his second wife he had issue John and Francis. By his first wife, Magdelaine, daughter and heiress of Thomas Berkeley, of the city of Worcester, John Wattes had a son and heir. Thomas Wattes, Esq., of Beby, who had a grant, a.d. 1560, of the lands and lordship of Blakesley, co. Northampton. By his first wife, Anne, daughter and co-heir of Sir John Crouch, of Crouch, CO. Kent, he had a son and heir William. His second wife was Catharine Sulyard, of Essex. Mr. Watts died in 1593, and was succeeded by his son, WiLLLiM Watts, Esq., of Blakesley, who died 16 June, 1614. He married Mary, daughter of the famous Lord Chief Justice Sir Edward Montagu, Knt. of Boughton, co. Northampton, and had issue, i. Edward his heir; n. Montagu, barrister- at-Iaw ; and Mary, wife of Anthony Palmer, Esq., of Stoke-Doyley. The elder son and heir, Edward Watts, Esq., of Blakesley, married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Ralph Coningsby, Knt., of North Mymms; Herts, and had issue, William ; ii. Edward, a royalist, whose only daughter and heu-, Mary, maiTied Rev. John Pettyfer ; m. Coningsby, of whom presently . rv. Amphilus ; v. Ralph ; I. Mary ; and n. Ehzabeth. The third son, CoNTNGSBY Watts, early embarked in the royal cause, and suffered in consequence, both in person and property. By his wife Barbara, daughter and eventually sole heir of George Danet, Esq., of the city of London, he had I. Montagu, who died young. II. John, who removed into Leicestershire, and purchased a con- siderable estate there, which had originally belonged to the ancient family of Danet, his mother's house, built Uanet's Hall, and took up his residence lliere. He held tlie office of Receiver-General for the county, projected and nearly com- pleted the water-works for supplying the city of Leicester wiUi spruig-waier, and was also of considerable sen-ice to the early manufacturers of Leicester, by lending them money in the infancy of the hosiery business. It is said he had the honour of handing the first cup of liquor to William III. on his landing in England. He died in 1742, aged 80. Mr. Watts married Cadierine, daughter of — Carter, Esq., of Leicester, and niece of Sir Lawrence Carter, one of the barons of the Court of Exchequer, and had issue, John Watts, jun., of Danet's Hall, who was a barrister-at-law, and sunk a considerable forttme in the South Sea scheme. He died in 1728, aged 32. He married ElizabeUi, daughter of Nicholas Moslev, Esq., and niece of Sir Oswald Mosley, Bart., of HoUeston. By this lady (who died in 1736, aged 35) Mr. Watts had issue. The Rev. William Watts, M.D., who was educated as a physician, and practised at Leicester. He subsequently entered the church. Dr. Watts was chiefly instrumental in the establishment of the Leicester Infirmary, of which he was one of the governors. He married the daughter of George Whalley, Esq., of Norton, and had by her John Mosley Watts, who married Sarah, daughter of Samuel Bolton, of Fair Mile, near Hen- ley-on-Thames, and had issue, WiLLiAJt Mosley, of whom hereafter. Alaric Alexander, the distinguished poet, married Zillah, sister of the late J. H. Wifl^en, Esq., the translator of Tasso, and has had issue Alaric Wil- liam, who died young ; Alaric Alfeed ; Francis Coleridge, who died yomig; and Zillah-Emily- Frauces. Anastasia. The elder son, William Mosley Watts, of Byfield House, Barnes, CO. Surrey, bom 12 September, 1780, married Mary, daughter of Thomas Fitter, Esq., of Craw- ley, and died 7 October, 1845, having had issue, William Power, who died Young. Frederick Mosley, M.A., of Lincoln College, Oxford, in holy orders, bom 11 March, 1825. Mary, who died in 1832. III. Georgb, of whom hereafter. I. Barbara, wife of George Bentley, Esq., of Monmouth. The third, but second surviving son, George Watts, a Turkey merchant in the city of Bristol, mai-ried twice. By his first wife Mary, daughter of George Dennis, Esq., of Bideford, he had a daughter Mary, who mar- ried Andrew Nelthorpe, Esq. By his second wife. Miss Anne Harrington, he had I. Charles, of whom presenUy. II. Montagu, who inherited the greater part of his father's for- tune, which he lost by embarking in the South Sea bubble. He married Miss Jane Seymour, and left issue. III. William, M.A., in holy orders. I. Florence, died young. II. Anne, wife of Captain Frazer. III. Elizabeth, wife of Sir Samuel Goodyer, Bart. The eldest son, Charles Watts, a captain of the Royal Life Guards, offended his father, and was disinherited. He married Katherine, daughter of Robert Scrope, Esq., colonel in the French service, and Chevalier of St Louis, descended from the Scropes of Hameldon, Bucks (by his wife Katherine Middleton, of the family of Stockeld), and dying 1745, left a son. The Rev. Wlluam Watts, A.M., rector of Moresby, Cum- beriand, J.P., who mainly assisted Joseph Nicolson, Esq., in his arduous undertaking of compiling the History of Cumber- 166 CUMBEELAND WARD. land. He maiTied Mary, daughter (by Mary his wife, daughter of Bellingham Maulevorer, Esq., of Arncliffe) of John Nicol- son, Esq., and sister aud eventually sole heir of John Nicolson of Hawkesdale Hall, in Cumberland, and great-niece of Dr. Wlliam Nicolson, bishop of Carlisle, altenvards of London- derr}-, and eventually archbishop of Cashel, by which lady he lea issue a daughter, Marj-, wife of the Eev. William Brisco, of Langrigg, co. Cumberland, and a son. The Rev. Clemexi Waits, M.A., vicar of Holme Cultram, CO. Cumberland, J.P.; married Mary, daughter of William Benn, Esq., of More Eow, and only sister of Sir John Benn Walsh, Bart., of Ormathwaite Hall, by whom (who died 1818) he had issue. The eldest son, JoHH Nicolson Watts succeeded, on the death of his great micle, John Nicolson, Esq., of Hawkesdale, to that and other estates in Cumberland. Mr. Watts went out to India early iu life, in the Company's civil service, on the JIadras establish- ment, where he died iu 1810, at the early age of 35. He mar- ried in 1800, Ann Pitt, daughter of James Dodson, Esq., of Eeading-hill, Berks, by Sarah his wife, daughter and coheir of John PhiUp Carey, Esq., of Compton, co. Gloucester, and by her (who died 17 July, ISQri) had issue, I. John James, his successor. n. Montague, Lieut. -Colonel Madras Horse Artillery, born 5 March, 1808 ; married Jaue, daughter of John Bird, Esq., Madras Civil Service. III. Henry, Lieutenaut in the Madras Engineers, bom 26 Janu- ary, 1810, died unmarried in India, in 18.J8. I. Helen Cramer, married 1826, Henry Dickinson, Esq., of the Madras Civil Service, and died 29 May, 1831. II. Mary Anne, married 1830, Henry Briggs, Esq., of the Madras Light Cavidry. Mr. Watts died June, 1S15, and was succeeded by his son, John James Watts, Esq., of Hawkesdale Hall, born 15 March, 1803. Arms — Quarterly: 1st aud 4th, arg., a fesse, and iu chief, two cross-crosslets, gu; and and 3rd, erm., on a chief, gu., a bezant, between two billets, or. Cret^ts — 1st, a dexter arm, embowed, in armour, ppr., grasping in the gauntlet au araohisbajua, (or a snake with a head at each ex- tremity), or, langued, gu. ; and, a lozenge, gu., between two wings, elevated, or. -Seat — Hawkesdale Hall. IVEOILL, OR HIGH HEAD. The township of IvegUl, or High Head, contained iu 1801 IIG inhabitants; in 1811, 109; iu 1821, 129; iu 18;]1, 141; in 1841, 194; and in 1851, 154. The rateable value is £1437 6s. The population, whose principal employment is agriculture, is very much scattered over the the township, aud in the small village of Ivegill. Carlisle and Penrith are the markets attended. In the immediate neighbourhood of the township, though not iu the township itself, are the remains of a Roman camp, but they are not veiy distinct. In a field, near to this place, a few Eoman coins, one a gold piece, have been discovered. The manor of High Head, in this township, belonged ' iu the reign of Edward II. to John do llercla, who ' was attainted for being concerned in rebellion with his I brother, the Earl of Carlisle. In 1342, William I L'Anglcys, or English, had the king's license to crenel- ' late his mansion at High Head, yet it appears there ' had been a castle there before, belonging to the crown, for inthe year 1326, Ralph Dacre had a grant of the custody of the castle of High Head, for ten years, and the next year the custody was granted for life to William L'Angleys, who took possession under that grant, whereupon Ralph Dacre, in 1330, petitioned parliament to be reinstated for the remainder of his term. In 1338 the sou of William above mentioned had a hceuse from the bishop to build a chapel here, aud to have a chaplain to officiate therem. About the year 1550, High Head Castle was purchased of the family of Eestwold, by John Richmond, Esq., in whose posterity it continued till the demise of Chris- topher Richmond, Esq., when it became the property of two of his daughters. Isabel, the eldest daughter, born 1679, married S. GledhiU, Esq., whose descen- dants sold their half of the estate to Lord Brougham. Margaret, the seventh daughter, bom 1089, was married to W. Gale, Esq., merchant, of Whitehaven, whose descendants took, in 177G, the name of BraddyU. Colonel BraddyU, born 1776, is their representative. Lord Brougham's family is connected with the Rich- mond family, through Ehzabeth, second daughter of the Christopher Richmond above mentioned, born in 1680, who married Peter Brougham, Esq., of Skelton. Their eldest son, Henry Richmond Brougham, Esq. of Scales aud High Head Castle, was high sheriff of Cumberland in 1 749, and died unmarried in that year. This family connection accounts for the purchase of the por- tion of the estate now iu the possession of Lord Brougham. The mansion belongs to that noblemau, who sliares the manorial rights, Ac, with Colonel BraddyU, in addition to whom, Messrs. John Knight, Thomas Knight, Isaac, and Christopher Williamson, John Deunison, and Christopher Hudson, are the principal landowners. High Head Castle, the manor house, is a substantial buUding, but at present unfit for residence, having been aUowed to go out of repair. It has, however, been some- what restored lately, and is now occupied as a farm- house. There was formerly a good deal of carved wood- work about the building, but this has been removed to Brougham Hall. The house occupies a most picturesque situation, on a steep rock overlooking the neighbouring scenery, backed up by the range of Skiddaw Forest in the distance, whUe the little river Ive winds its way immediately beneath, through a rocky channel com- pletely overshadowed with timber. grabbjill ^;imilii. JoHK V.ttjx, of Catterlen, manied Mabel Musgrave in lOlC, and by her had issue, Mabel, who was married to Christopher Kichmond, of High Head, to whom she bore two sons and a DALSTON PAEISH. ipr daughter, Cup.istopher, of whom presenlly, John, aDd Mag- dalen. Mr. Eichmond married 2ndly Magdalen, daughter of A. Huddleston, of Hulton John, and by her had issne. Christopher Richmoxb, married tirsllv Mand, daughter of Sir W. Lftwson, Bart., of Isell Hall, by whom he liad one son and two daughters. His second wife was Isaliell, daughter of Thomas Reynolds, of London, by whom he had issue, I. Erasmus, bom 1684, died an infant ]i. Henry, the only son surviving infancy, who bequeathed High Head estate to liis mother on his death, 17 IB. in. William, who died an infant. I. Isabel, born 1670, who moi-ried S. Gledhill, Esq. II. Elizabeth, born UiSn, married Peter Brougham, of Skelton, collector of excise, and had issue, 1. Henry Eichmond Brougham, of Scales and High Head Castle, high sherifl' of Ciunberland, 1749, who died im- married, in ."ipril, 1749. 2. John, who died unmarried. 3. Mary, who died young. in. Sarah, born 1681, married G. Simpson, of Thackwood, gent. rv. Anne, died young. T. Mabel, married Henry Brisco, vonngest son of J. Brisco, of Crolton HaU. Ti. Susannah, to whom High Head Castle was bequeathed by her mother's will, as well as Catterlen m fee. vn. Margaret, bom 1689, married W. Gale, of Whitehaven, merchant, and had issue, 1. John Gale, of Whitehaven and of Cleator Hall, who married Sarah, daughter and coheir of Christopher Wilson, of Bardsev Hall, Lancashire, bv Margaret, aunt and heir of Thomas BraddyU, bom 1728, died 1774. Mr. Gale had issue, William Gale, of Conishead Priory, Lancashire, baptised 24th Febraary, 17.56, took the name of BraddyU in 1776. He married in the latter year, Jane, daughter of Matthias Gale of London, mer- chant, and by her had JoHS Gale Braddtll, Esq., of Conishead Priory, bora 14th November, 1776, who took the surname of Eichmond before that of BraddyU, and the arms of Eichmond and Gale quarterly with those of BraddyU, by license, 6th October, 1819. WilUam Gale, Esq., died 9di November, 1^18. vill. Martha. The village of Ivegill is eight miles south of Carhsle. High Head chapel, in the immediate neighbourhood of the castle, and one mile distant from Ivegill, is a chapel-of-ease to Dalston. It is a plain and somewhat mean-looking building, with small bell turret, erected in 1836, upon the site of an older building. The interior is better than the exterior. The font is hex- agonal, and is tlie gift of the late iliss Blamire, of Thackwood Nook. The chapel contains a memorial ■window to that lady by O'Connor, — subject. Our Lord bearing the Cross ; two other wiudows are also by the same artist, and the remaining four are filled with the stamped quarries of Messrs. James Powell, &c. AU are the gift of the present incumbent. The dedication of the chapel is unknown. The to^vllships of Ivegill, Mid- dlesceugh, in the parish of St. Mary's Without, Carhsle, and Itonfield, in the parish of Hesket-in-the-Forest, have seats in the chapel and are united for educational pur- poses. The living, a perpetual curacy, was only endowed ■with f 300, which has been since augmented from Queen Anne's Bounty, and Parliamentary grants, &c., the whole present value is about £9i 13s. 6d. There are no tithes. Baptisms only are solemnised in the chapel. The register commences in 1705. Incujibests. — John Hudson, 1752; Thomas Eobinson, 1770; Joseph Ashbridge, 1771 ; James Maws, 1777; Joseph Hudson, 1781; Samuel Hudson, 1790; Joseph Hudson, 1S2G'; Hugh Elliot, 1840 ; Bichard Dugdale, 1843 ; Anhur Emilias Hulton, 1853. There is a small school at Ivegill, erected in 1835 ; for the townships of Ivegill, or High Head, Itonfield, and Middlesceugh. Chapel Stock. — It is stated in a tender of this chapelry, dated 1777, that there was then the sum of £300, called ancient chapel stock. By reference to the will of Isabella Miller, dated 1st May, 1736, it appears she directed that those who, after her decease, should become possessors of the castle, manor, demesne lands of High Head, should pay yearly, and every year for ever, out of the same, the sum of 20s. to such person as should be reader and schoolmaster at High Head chapel. Provided always that the reader and school- master should be nominated and appointed by or with the consent of the said possessor or possessors, and their successors, and that the school should be taught in the parish of Dalston as formerly. The interest of the £300 and the 20s. yearly, is paid to the incumbent of the chapehy. There is a corn-mill close to High Head Castle, the- property of Lord Brougham, and earned on by Mr. George Piayson. There are two bridges in this township; one over the Roe, called High Bridge, the other over the Ive, immediately below High Head Castle. The people here are very general in their invitations to funerals, which all in the neighbourhood or laiting- are expected to attend ; and much unnecessary expense is consequently often incurred. R.iCGHTON AND GATESGILL. The population of this township in 1801 was 206: in 1811, 184; in 1821, 294; in 1831, 330;- in 1811, 318 ; and in 1851, 302. Its rateable value is £2,320 6s. Id. "Gatesgill and Piaughton," say Nicolson and Burn, "were at the Conquest all forest and waste ground, and were first enclosed by way of pui-presture by one Ugthred, to be holden of the king in fee by serjeautry for keeping the eyries of hawks for the king, which bred in the forest of Inglewood. Gateskale, being a whiney place, where the inhabitants of Piaugh- ton made scales or shields for their gates (or goals) 1 Joseph Hudson, non-resident. Hugh Elliot, his successor, was 168 CUMBERLAND WARD. from thence took its name, as Raughton did from the beck or river, called Raugh (or Raghe), which signifies a rough rapid water. The posterity of Ugthred took their surname of the place, and gave the sparhawk for their cognizance. It continued in this name and family for several generations: till the last of the name settled it upon bis wife Margaret (Stapleton), and she dying without issue, her brother William Stapleton of Eden Hall succeeded to the inheritance. In like manner the Musgraves succeeded the Stapletons by a female heir, and towards the end of the fourteenth cen- tury settled it upon a younger son, whose chief seat was at Hayton, in which house it still continues." The principal landowners are the representatives of the late George Cowcn, Esq., Thomas SalkclJ, Esq., the executors of the late John Bond, Esq., Lord Brougham, Robert Mounsey, Esq., and William Bond, yeoman. GRINSDALE PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north and east by the Eirkandrews, and on the south by the parish of St. Mary The area of Grinsdale is about 7?0 acres (890 in the Census returns), and its rateable value £580. Its population in 1801 was 86; in 1811, 118; in 182], 138; in 1831, 135 ; in 1811, 115 ; and in 1851, 95. It is now about 100, inhabiting 23 houses. Their occupation is entirely agricultural. The land here is well cultivated, and the houses clean and comfortable. The village of Grinsdale is the only collection of houses. There are three separate farm-houses situated at Millbeck, where there is a corn-mill moved by water- power ; Cornhill and Knockupworth Hall. The quality of the soil near the river Eden, comprising about one-fourth part of the parish, is a deep rich deposit ; and in the highest part near the borders of it, is situate the village of Grinsdale, so that the inhabitants are near their good land, and yet out of the reach of the water, when in the highest flood they are nearly surrounded. On going from the village to the southern part of the parish, the land becomes poorer. Pre- vious to the year 1808, nearly the whole of this part (450 acres) was a wet unproductive common, but it was divided and enclosed in that year, and is now under good cultivation, and produces most excellent crops. The subsoil is of a red gravelly nature, with bands of clay ; and the surface varies from good loam to blacktop earth towards the south. Carlisle markets, held on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, are those attended by the inhabitants. The Roman wall and vallum ran through this parish. The wall as it entered the parish on the cast, came a little south of the footpath, which now leads from Car- lisle to Grinsdale by the river side. Instead of bending with the footpath when it reaches the south end of the island, it held its direct course, and sought the high river Eden and the parish of Stanwix, on the west by Carlisle. It possesses no dependent townships. ground where the footpath now is between Grinsdale and Kirkandrews ; and this footpath is the site of the wall, except where it passes through the Bleachhouse- field, and here it was a little diverted from it a few years ago by Mr. Thomas Sibsou, who in straightening the path, removed the only remaining foundations of the wall. It leaves this parish here, and enters Kirk- andrews at Sour Milk Bridge. The traces of the vallum or ditch are not distinct in this parish. The pai-ish of Grinsdale is a manor in the barony of Burgh, and gave name to a resident family who lived here during the reigns of Henry I., Stephen, Henry II., and John. In the reign of the latter monarch the manor came to two daughters of the Grinsdales or Greeusdales, called Marriott and ^Margaret. In the time of Henry III., when Thomas de Multou was lord of Burgh, Thomas de Newton, a descendant of one daughter, held a moiety ; and William de la Sore, a descendant of the other daughter, held the other moiety.' In the reign of Henry IV. the two moieties were sold to the Dentons of Cardew, a daughter of whom married Sir Thomas Dacre of Lanercost. In Queen Elizabeth's time the estates of the Dacres were forfeited to the crown by the rebellion and attainder of Leonard Dacre, whose sisters (Anne and Elizabeth) marrying the Earl of Arundel and Lord William I In 12!).'), and again in l.SM, Robert de Grinsdale represented the city of Carlisle in Parliament. This Robert was the son of Gil- bert, whose father Robert de Grinsdale, a citizen of Carlisle, and an inheritor of lands both at Grinsdale and Paiton, was a second brother of Asketill de Grinsdale, one of die first of that family con- nected with this manor. The said Robert hod a son Alan de Grins- dale, who was member for CarUsle in 130.'> and 1301!, and one of the representatives for the county in 1312. After him was Robert de Grinsdale, who represented Carlisle several times iu the reigns of Edward II. aud Edward III. KINGMOOR KXTRA PAROCHIAL PLACE. 169 Howard, the sons of the Duke of Norfolk procured the estates to be granted to them again by the crown. This manor being in the barony of Burgh came thus into the hands of Philip, earl of Arundel, who died in 1595 ; and in 1085 his descendants sold the barony to Sir John Lowther for il4,000, who in 1090 was created Baron Lowther and Viscount Lonsdale. The present Earl of Lonsdale is lord of one part of the parish, and Joseph Dacre, Esq., of Kii-klinton Hall, of the other part. The principal landowners are Mr. Thomas Sibson, Miss Jane Robson, Mr. Sibson Gra- ham, Mr. Richard Burn, and Mr. John Graham. The village of Griusdale is two-and-a-half miles north-west of Carlisle. THE cnuncH. The church, dedicated to St. Keutigem, is a small but neat building, delightfully situated on the banks of the river Eden, and from its quiet and secluded posi- tion, its graveyard is a most fitting depository for the remains of the dead. It was formerly rectorial, and belonged to the lords of the manor of Grinsdale, up to the reign of Henry II., when Hugh de Monille, lord of the barony of Burgh, and Richard de Newton and Robert de la Sore, coparceners in the manor of Grins- dale, granted and confirmed the church of Grinsdale, with all its rights, to the canons of Lanercost Priory At the dissolution of this priory, the rectory and ad- vowson passed to Sir Thomas Dacre by the grant of Edward VI. ; and his descendants have always ap- pointed a curate with a salary of forty shillings yearly, though the church lay in ruins for many ages. It was rebuilt by Joseph Dacre, Esq., at his own expense, in 1740. The living has been several times augmented by grants from Queen Anne's bounty office, with which lands have been purchased at Dapley Moor, in the parish of Stapleton, and at Mildburnhead, &c., in the parish of Kirklinton. Its present value is about £'115 per annum. The tithes were paid in kind previous to the j-ear 1751, when they were purchased by the land- owners of the late Joseph Dacre, Esq., the patron and lay impropriator, for the sum of £1,090, passed by fine and recovery, Hilary Term, 20 George II. The patron is Joseph Dacre, Esq., Temple, London, who appoints a perpetual curate, with a stipend of £2 annually, to maintain his ecclesiastical right, paid by the parish. The parish register commences in 1738, and is con- tinued till the present time. There is an entry made on a small fly-leaf of a pocket-book by the late jNIr. Thomas Sibson, — " On Sunday, April y" 19th, 1741, service first performed at Grinsdale church by Rev. Mr. Stamper, the te.xt was in y« 122 Psalm and vers y« first, viz., ' I was glad when they said unto me, we will go into the house of the Lord.' " Grinsdale is not mentioned in the King's Book, nor is there any presen- tation or other account of it in the bishop's registers. Incumbents. — John Stamper, 1738; William Baty, 1780; Thomas Pattinson, 1776; Jonathan Wilson, )829; Henry Gough, Fellow of Queen's College, Oxford, 1848 ; John Bui-ton Norman, 1855. There is no parsonage house. The present incum- bent living at Kirkandrews, about a mile from the church. This parish is entitled to a third of Pattinson's charity for the education of poor children. There is no school in the parish, but the inhabitants subscribed towards the erection of that at Kirkandrews-on-Eden, the master of which receives the interest of £50. ' ' See Bowness parish, p. 150 ; aud Kirkandrews-ou-Eden, p. 172. KINGMOOR EXTRA PAROCHIAL PLACE. KiKGirooR is an extra parochial place, nearly encircled by Stanwix parish. It is bounded on the north by Rockliffe parish, on the west by Cargo township, on the south by that of Stanwix, and on the east by Houghton. Since 1841 it has been included, for church pmiMses, in Houghton Ecclesiastical District. crown, the citizens, or corporation of Carlisle, having a prescriptive right to depasture their cattle, and get turves thereon, which right was confirmed to them by the charter of Edward III., aud the subsequent ones granted by most of the other kings and queens of Eng- land, down to Charles II. In the year 1 082 the cor- poration leased out a part of this moor for then: lives. The area of Kingmoor is 1,110 statute acres, and its rateable value £1,004 2s. 6d. Its population in 1801, was 103; in 1811, 132; in 1821, 102; in 1831, 420; in 1841, 412; and in 1851, 502. A light blackish soil, incumbent on a red clay, prevails in the district, which is intersected by the Caledonian railway. " King- moor," says Hutchinson, " was formerly vested in the 170 CUMBKKLAND WAKD. at a small rent ; and so from time to time granted other parts thereof in like manner, which leases were regularly renewed on the dropping of one or two of the lives, on payment of 20s. as a fine for every new life. The whole of the moor hath been thus held ever since, except Mr. Lamb's, the principal estate, of which the corporation granted the fee about fifty years ago. In the year 1799, some of the freemen of this corporation being disposed to revive the exercise of their rights of common pasture and turbar^^ on this moor, an action- at-law was commenced in consequence thereof, which was argued at the assizes held at Carlisle the year fol- lowing, and determined in favour of the occupiers or lessees of the corporation.'' The principal landowners at present are George G. Mouusey, Esq., Charles J. Lamb, Esq., Richard Ferguson, Esq., Mi-. C. Arm- strong, with some small proprietors. Charles J. Lamb, Esq., possesses the manorial rights and privileges. The village or hamlet of Ivingmoor is on the high road to Scotland, about two miles north of Carlisle. The freemen of the city have for a considerable period held their guild races here on a small waste. KIEKANDREWS-ON-EDEN PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by the river Eden, the south by the parish of Ortou, and on the east by that Kirkandrews comprises an area of 1,050 statute acres, and its rateable value is £620. The number of its inhabitants in 1801 was 98 ; in 181], 100 ; in 1821, 141 ; in 1831, 107 ; in 1841, 142 ; and in 1851, 131, — living in the village of Kirkandrews, and two or three farm-houses in other parts of the parish. Hoskett Hill is a small hamlet situated on the side of the common. This is a well-cultivated paiisli ; the north-eastern part, lying alongside .the river Eden, is a fine rich holme, with the drawback of being occasionally flooded by the river. The middle part is divided from this holme by the eminence which forms the site of the Eoman wall, and is a stepp about twenty feet higher than the holme. This part contains the village of Kirkandrews, with its crofts of strong productive loam and clay subsoil. Higher still is the third part, divided from the middle part by the eminence called Bracken- hill Brow ; this is of a variable quality of soil, from the loamy to the blacktop with red roachey subsoil. I Here is situated the yet unenclosed common ; but the division of it under the Enclosure Acts has just been completed, and a few years will materially improve this part of the county. This common contains about 130 acres. The remainder of this third part, about 250 acres, are ancient enclosures, which have been granted to the tenements of Kirkandrews from time to time by the lords of the manor. The inhabitants are chiefly en- gaged in agriculture. There are no mines or minerals. The Port Carlisle railway passes through this parish, touching the village at the west end, where there is a station. Carlisle is distant about three miles, and is the market town on Wednesdays and Saturdays. on the west by Beaumont and Burgh-on-Sands, ou of Grinsdale. It comprises no dependent townships. The Roman Wall and Valium pass through this parish, entering on the east side at a place called Sour Milk Bridge, where they are about 200 paces apart, and continue in a westerly direction. The wall, fol- lowing the top of an eminence which bounds the holme land, passed through where the cimrchyard now is, on the north side of the village, and entered Beaumont parish where Beaumont Beck empties itself into the river. The ditch, pursuing a similar direction, passed on the south side of the village, and entered the parish of Beaumont where the same beck crosses the Monkhill road, and here it is distant from the site of the wall about 500 paces. On the higher parts, tow\ards the south of this parish, there are several traces of Boman earthworks. At a place on the common near Janet Hill, where the plough has not yet stirred the surface, there are three mysterious circular ditches on the high- est part of the ground of no great dimensions, being respectively five, seven, and nine yards in diameter. Here it is said some urns were found about eighty years ago. These circular ditches are deep, and their interior spaces are a little elevated. Apparently they are very aniiient, and the purpose for which they were made has belonged to a period now long gone by. There are also on this same common most curious traces of what tra- dition says was an aqueduct to bring water from the river Caldew down into Beaumont Beck for some pur- poses of water-power. It is first seen in this parish on the Far Moor, where it winds round the south and east side of this brow ; thence it jjroceeds in a northerly direction through Lammonby Close plantation, and behind Maxwell Cottage, thence to the southern side of KIRKANDRKWS-ON-EDEN PARISH. 171 the brow on which stands Hoskett Hill ; and still pro- ceeding in a northerly direction, as it finds its desired decline, it enters the parish of Beaumont at a place called Cowper Nook, and bending to the east runs in that direction to Beaumont Beck: at Cowper Nook, where there is some uncultivated ground, the traces arc very distinct. In this parish, Kirksteads deserves the attention of tlie antiquarian. It is situated on the south side of the farm-house called Cobble Hall. Here tradition tells us a church once stood to serve the parishes of Ku-k- andrews, Beaumont, Grinsdale, and Orton. Yet we cannot find, eitheijfrom internal evidence, or from any ancient documentf whatever, that the building which once stood here was dedicated to Christian worship. Many Roman remains have been dug out ; an altar, with many sculptured stones now in the garden of ]\[rs. Norman of Kirkandrews, and illustrated in Bruce's Eomau Wall,' many Roman coins, and some beautiful specimens of Roman decorations of the vine tracery cut in reUef in stone, now in the possession of Mr. Norman of Bow, and Mr. Stordy of Thurstonfield. Remains of human bones have also been exposed here, but still no traces of medifeval architecture. But the strongest evidence against this tradition is, that the churches in Beaumont and Orton, as well as whnt recendy remained of the old church which stood in Kirkandrews' churchyard, all bear evidence that they have been erected during the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. And previous to that time it is not likely that the inhabitants here would be either so numerous or so wealthy as to maintain a separate church. No doubt the human bones that have been dug up, and the sculptured stones that have been removed, led our fore- fathers, who were not skilled in Roman remains, to think that this was the site of some " auld kirk," and therefore they named the field " Kirksteads." About 300 paces from Kirksteads, in a field called Hainings, the property of Mrs. C. Norman, there was found, in the summer of 1855, in the northern angle of the field, and a very little way beneath the surface of the ground, an earthenware vase containing about 1,100 Roman denarii. The coins were of bronze, and principally of the reigns of Constantine and Diocletian. ' The altar bears marks of having been cut down to suit the purposes of some comparatively modern builder. The focus of the altar is unusually large, the boldness of its lettering indicating an early date. Dr. Bruce reads it as follows: Lucits Junius Victo- BiNUs ET Caius jElianos Legati Augcstales Legionis VI. TicTRicis Pis. et Fidelis ob Res trans vallum pkqspeke gestas. Lucius Jmiius Victorious, and Caius jElianus, Augustal Legates of the sixth legion, nctorious, pious, and faithlul, on account of achievements beyond the wall prosperously performed. The discoverer of this treasure was a labouring man who was hedging at the place, and cutting some fresh sods for an adjoining fence. On his spade coming in contact with this buried treasure, his wits were sorelj- tried as to how he could conceal them and convert them into real money. Often and often he paid a visit to this treasured angle, and bore away some prize every time ; but one day he had filled his pockets too full, and some of the coins were found by his master on the barn floor at Cobble Hall, where they were living. To his enquiries the man turned a deaf ear. But the master was a "vary canny Scotchman," and collected all the coin he could find, and throwing his plaid over his shoulders set off to the silversmith's at Carhsle to make as good a bargain as he could. When he offered them he was sadly crestfallen to find that the silversmith would not buy them, as he had already pui-- chased at a good price more than he wanted ; and when lie learned that they had all come from a place which he recognised as his own home, and brought by his own servant, he wended his way back again, and dis- missed his " fa'se and knavish loon of a servant." TbLs parish forms part of the barony of Burgh be- longing to the Earl of Lonsdale. T. Denton says that it was for a while severed from Burgh, and made parcel of the barony of Levington, but afterwards was re- annexed to Burgh. It is now nearly all freehold. The landowners are Mrs. Dorothy Norman, Mrs. Caiheiine Norman, Rev. .John Burton Norman, Mr. John Hind, Mrs. Ruth Graham, and the INIisses Blamire. It is enclosed with the exception of 130 acres on the com- mon, which has just been divided under the Enclosure Acts, and will be enclosed in another year. The village of Kirkaudi-ews is situated three miles westnorth-west of Carhsle. THE CHOECH. The church which formerly stood here was dedicated to St. Andrew, from which the parish takes its name. No part of it is now in existence, nothing save the undulations in the green sward remain to show the site where it stood. There are some persons yet living who recollect the old chancel arch which remained for many years after the other portions of the church had been removed. It was used to perform the burial service under, and from what we can learn it was a Norman arch, and the church, in all probability would be in that style of architecture. Bishop Nicholson, in his Itinerary through this diocese in a.d. 1703, says, '•The church here at Kirkandrews is quite demoUshed. The parishioners bury their dead in the churchyard, and the late rector (Mr. Hume) lyes buried, sub Dio, in y^ Quire; but the divine service is at Beaumont, 172 CUMBERLAND WARD. about half a mile off. The parsonage-house is a long row of low buildings of clay, improved by the late incumbent, who also was at about £10 charges in walling in an orchard. The glebe is about four acres of good land. The value of this and Beaumont (jointly) not above £30. I moved the parishioners here to a compliance with the men of Beaumont, rather than run the hazard of being put upon the expence of re- pairing their own church; offering, that, towards the making all things the more easy to them, the old timber in that church should be brought for the improvement of the parsonage house here. They seemed to like the proposal well; and, I believe will peaceably comply. They have a tradition that the three little neighbouring churches (of this town, Beau- mont, and Grinsdale) were built by three sisters, who, I must say, were not too generous in subsisting their chaplains, I rather think they have been small oratories supplied by y^ religious of Carlisle." This parish is still united with Beaumont in ecclesiastical matters, and the church in the latter place is used by the parishioners of Ivirkaudrews, precisely as if it stood in their own parish, contributing towards its repairs, &c. The advowson and right of presentation is in the hands of the Earl of Lonsdale, to whose family it has belonged since 1092, when George Hume was presented to this living and that of Beaumont,' on the annexation of the two parishes by Sir John Lowther, Bart. The present value of the living, which is a rectory, is £270. The great and small tithes of these united parishes were abolished by a private act of parliament, dated 14th June, 1827, and compensation in lieu thereof was made amounting in Kirkandrews to £57 3s. 3d., and in Beaumont to £134 2s. 9d. Previous to this time the 1 The following have exercised the right of presentation to this living :— The Prioress and Convent of Marrig, or Maryke, in York- shire, in 1361; Qneen Elizabeth, in 1576; Bishop May, in 1587; George Eumney, in 1611; and Sir John Lowther, in 1692. living was of very small value. It was augmented in 1740, by a grant of £200 made by the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, which in the year following was laid out in the purchase of two dwelHng-houses, and out-buildings called Upper Town and seventy acres, part of a tenement called Dapley Moor in the parish of Stapleton. In 1772, land was purchased near Sedberg in Yorkshire with £400 (half of which was given by the Countess Dowager Gower,) to the value of £14 per annum, but now let at £9 per annum. There are also about seven acres of good glebe, situate near the rectory at Kirkandrews. The parish register com- mences in 1746, and is very imperfect at the commence- ment. Eectors. — John Palmer, — ; John de Bampton, 1301 ; Thomas Watson, — ; Christopher Lowther, 1570 ; 'WilUam Witton, 1587; George MiUikin, ICU ; Piichard Wilton, — ; George Hume, 1092 ; Gabriel Trant, who was schoolmaster at Lowther, 1703; Thomas Lewthwaite, 17051; George Bowness, 1703; Richard Burn, the elder, 1780; Richard Burn, the younger, 1811; William Benn, 1846; John Browu, 1852. There is a most excellent parsonage-house adjoining the churchyard which commands a beautiful view to the east and north over the rich and fertile vale of the Eden, whose winding course may be traced to a con- siderable distance. The house was erected in 1847 by the Rev. Mr. Benn, rector, at a cost of £800, bor- rowed of the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty. It is a plain substantial building of brick, and the interior accommodation appears to have been more aimed at than any architectural beauty. There is a small school, with an endowment of £1 18s. 6d. from Thomas Pattinson's Charity, for which two children are instructed free. It was erected in 1817, by the contributions of the inhabitants of Kirk- andrews, Beaumont, and Grinsdiile, and has an average attendance of fifty children. 1 His descendants are now receiving relief from this parish. KIRKBAMPTON PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north by Burgh-upon-Sands, on the west by Aikton and Bowness, on the south by Aikton, and on the east by Burgh-upon-Sands and Orton. It comprises the townships of Bampton Great, Bampton Little, and Oughterby. The parish was surveyed for the purposes of the tithe commutation, and there are maps deposited in the different townships. The population, who arc principally employed in agri- culture, are located in the villages of Kirkbampton, Little Bampton, and Oughterby, and the hamlets of Flat, Longrigg, Ploughlands, and Studholme, and a number of detached farm-houses. The state of the parish as to cleanliness and comfort is generally good, and as regards the village of Ivirkbampton remarkably so. A con- siderable portion of the parish, viz., the lauds near the three principal villages, consists of good vegetable KIRKBAMPTON PARISH. 173 earths, resting on gravelly clays ; another considerable portion consists of poor soils resting on cold clays ; and there are some mossy lands. The soil varies much and abruptly, hence improvement has been effected of late years by draining. The residents here attend the Carlisle and Wigton markets, — chiefly the former. Almost all th'j parish is enclosed, but not under any Act of Parliament. The lands not enclosed are nearly all sub- divided, and assigned to their several owners. KinKBAMPTON, OU B.4MPT0N GREAT. The township of Kirkbampton comprises an area of 1,260 acres, and its rateable value is about JE1,178. The population in 1801, was 149; in 1811, 175; in 1821,193; in 1831, 192; in 1841, 193; and in 1851, 220. The manor of Kirkbamptou is within the barony of Burgh, and seems to have anciently included the whole parish. Its first recorded possessor was Hildred de Carlisle, who had his seat here in the reign of Henry II. After his death, it was divided by his descendants, Richard and Robert, children of his son Odard. In the year 12i7, Eudo de Carlisle, tenant of Kirkbamp- ton, gave four carucates in Oughterby and' Little Barapton to Walter de Bampton by filie, which by an inquisition taken in 1295 was valued to £20 laud, and to be held of the manor of Burgh. Another part was held in 1252 by Elizabeth Montacute, Countess of Salisbury, as of the inheritance of William Montacute, earl of Salisbury ; and in the same year Sir Brian Stapleton of Bedale in Yorkshire, held it (by purchase, as it appears) whose posterity sold it in the reign of Henry III. to the Dacres of Lanercost, whose son Christopher sold it in severalties to the tenants. In 1582, Thomas Brisby, gentleman, in consideration of £200 conveyed to John Southaick, Esq. and Richard Tolson, their heirs and assignees, the manor or lordship of Little Bampton, whicli four years later was again sold to John Dalston, Esq., who sold it in the following year to the respective tenants. Some lands in this parish are held by Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; in respect of which courts are held at Orton. There seems to have been numerous defensive works in this parish, against the predatory incursions of the moss-troopers. The remains of the most considerable of these are situated south of Kirkbampton \-illage, on a rising ground commanding an extensive view- along the shores of the Solway. It consists of a stroTig enclosure covering more than an acre of ground. The greatest portion of it appears to have been defended by a double rampart of earth and a double ditch, the other portion, which probably was appended to the principal work, was surrounded by a single rampart and ditch. Tradition says that the cattle of the district were driven to this place for protection, on the appearance of the moss-troopers ; and, in consequence, 30 a the work is commonly ascribed to the time of these free- booters. The irregularity of the work favours this supposition, but the discovery of a stone, with the following Latin inscription on it, in the adjoining field, in the year 1843, seems to connect the Romans with this locality. YES. (Rest defaced.) Further examination may probably establish a con- nection between this and works of a similar character in the neighbourhood ; or, at all events, may show that a line of defence, consisting of an earthen rampart and a ditch, extended from it to a considerable distance, as they can be clearly traced in the adjoining field, which is called " Foldsteads." Not far from this a notorious moss-trooper, called Bootbill, was killed in a singular manner. He was found asleep on the ground, by a person of Kii-kbampton, called Hody, who, determined not to let the opportunity slip of freeing himself and neighbours of a formidable enemy, coolly drew the free- booter's sword out of its scabbard, and with it severed his head from his body. The Scot lies buried in Kirk- bampton church-yard, and his grave is covered with a stone, on which is engraved a sword. No feasts or wakes are at present observed in this parisli ; formerly, it is said, there was annually a bon- fire near Kirkbampton. It is stated to have been on the evening of the day before Midsummer Day, but it was probably in reality on the eve of St. John the Baptist's day. The children and young people ran through the flames and smoke of the bonfire, singing, " awake, awake, for Sin Gal's (St John's) sake." The village of Kirkbampton is pleasantly situated about six miles west of Carlisle, and seven north-north- east of Wigton, and commands beautiful and extensive views of the surrounding country. THE CHURCH. Kirkbampton church, dedicated to St. Peter, is an ancient structure, the great arch and doorway of which are in the Saxon style : within the latter there is a rudely-sculptured bas-relief, representing two animals, and what seems to have been designed for an abbot. The benefice, which is a rectory, valued in the King's Book at £14: I7s. lid., pays a pension of 3s. 4d. to 17-4 CUMBERLAND WAED. the Bishop of Carlisle. A moiety of the rectory was giveu in the reign of Henry II. by Adam, son of Robert, to the hospital of St. Nicholas at Carlisle, and is now held by the dean and chapter. 'Ihe right of presen- tation to the second moiety, long called the rectory of Kirkbampton (the other moiety having no concern with the cure) has been disputed ever since the reign of Queen Elizabeth. There were then three claimants, Cuthbert Musgrave, Esq., William Brisco, Esq., and Christopher Dacre, Esq. In 1710 those families joined in a presentation. In 1710, on the death of the Eev. Thomas Story, who had held the incumbency for six years, and who is said to have buried every one of the parishioners who were living at the time of his induc- tion. Henry Viscount Lonsdale presented the Eev. Michael Burn, who died in 1786, after which the living seems to have been vacant for some years, owing to the disputes regarding the right of presentation. Ulti- mately the Eev. John Wheatley was presented by the Earl of Lonsdale ; and since that period the advowson is understood to be jointly in the Earl of Lonsdale and Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. The living was augmented some years ago by £459 19s. 4d. from the " Parlia- mentary Fund," reJuced three-per-cents, now yielding a half yearly dividend of £(> 1.5s. 9d., so that the benefice is now worth about ilOO per annum, including seven acres, three roods, twenty f erches of glebe. The tithes were commuted in 1840 for a yearly rent charge of £9i 4s., viz., Kirkbampton township £10 8s. Id. ; Little Bampton, £67 8s. 8d. ; and Oughterby, £10 Os. 3d. A rent-charge of £58 6s. 6d. was awarded in lieu of the moiety of the great tithes of Little Bampton, which formerly belonged to the dean and chapter of Carlisle. This rent-charge was transferred with the capitular estates to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, who have bought the lease of James Losh, Esq., and who are in consequence in full possession thereof. The parish register commences in the year 1695. Eectors— Walter de Balyler, ■ ; John de Culgayth, 1205 ; John Grainger, 1341 ; John de Appleby, ; William do Appleby, 134-3 ; Thomas de Bampton, 135!) ; John de Thornton, ; Kobert de Gayton, 13(il ; Kichard Damysell, -— ; Wil- liam df Civssop, 13(i7 ; Edwai'd Mitchell, ; John Alicton, [ ISni ; K,,l,inil Ilauxbie, l-OSli ; Joseph Lowden, 1508; Cuthbert '. Roper, !6I(): Robert Brown, ; Olho Polewheele, 1639; ] John Bell, ; Thomas Story, 1070; Michael Burn, 1740;' | John Wheatley, 17!)0 ; Joseph Stordy, 1809 ; Robert Fallowfield, 1835 ; William Pattinson, M.A., 1815. 1 In consequence of the disputes about Ihe right of presentation, 1 no rector appears lo have been appointed from 1740 to 1705, during which period we ftnd the following curates :— George Rickerby, ofll- I ciuting minister from 1786 lo 1789; Thomas Shepherd, curate (Vom j I7M) to 1808; George Bickerby, curate 1808-9. The Rev. John I Wheatley, when rector, was non-resident. | There is a neat rectory, but the date of its erection is not known. There is a parish school here, as also a Sunday school, the latter of which is supported by voluntary contributions, and is attended by about fifty children. Haverlands House and Bank House (the last name is applied to the neighbouring detached houses) are in this township. Longrigg is a hamlet in this township about a mile west of the village of Kirkbampton. The lands here and in some other parts of the parish are in the lord- ship of the rector. Flat is another hamlet one and a half miles south- east of the village. BAMPTON LITTLE. Little Bampton township contains 1,337 acres, and its rateable value is £929. The number of its inhabi- tants in 1801 was 190 ; in 1811, 176 ; in 1821, 172 ; in 1831, 213 ; in 1841, 212 ; and in 1851, 210. This manor formed originally a part of the manor of Kirk- hampton ; hut in 1227 Eudo de Carlisle gave four carucates of land here and in Oughterby to Walter de Bampton by fine, which hy an inquisition taken in 1295, were found to be worth £90, and to be held of the barony of Burgh. This estate appears to have passed to the Musgraves of Crookdake, the coheiresses of which family enfranchised the lands. We find also, that in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Thomas Brisley conveyed an estate called the manor of Little Bampton, to Messrs. Sotithaiok and Tolson : the latter conveyed it to John Dalston, Esq., by whom it was sold in severalty to the tenants. The village of Little Bampton is situated two-and-a- half miles west-south-west of Kirkbampton, and five miles north of Wigton. There is a spring on the edge of Little Bampton Moss, the waters of which are col- lected in a well, and are used for the dressing of sores, being considered to have a healing power. New Bampton, Westfield House, Windmill House, and The Building are single houses having particular names in this township. Ploughlands is a hamlet in the township of Little Bampton. OUClIITEItUY. The area of this township is 905 acres, and its rate- able value £700. In 1801 it contained 117 inhabi- tants; in 1811, 107; in 1821, 105; in 1831, 118; in 1841, 131; and in 1851, 116. The village of Oughterby is one mile south-west of the parish church, and six miles north-east of Wigton. OKTON PARISH. 175 The Rev. William Hodson, D.D., fellow, tutor, and finally master of St. Peter's College, Cambridge, was born here. He died in 1847. Studholme is a hamlet in this towuship three miles west of the village of Kirkbampton, and is separated from the rest of the township by the hamlets of Plough- lands and Longrigg and their lands. ORTON PARISH. The parish of Orton is bounded by those of St. Mary, Burgh-on-Sands, Kirkbampton, Kirkandrews, Aiktoti, Thursby, and Dalston. It comprises the townships of Great Orton and Baldxvin Holme, whose united area is 4,277 acres. The soil is chiefly clayey with a mixture of gravel ; several attempts have been made to discover coal here, but without success. The rateable value of the parish is £3,580. holden of Edward Musgrave, gentleman, as of bis OHTOK. The population of this township in 1801 was 173 ; in 1811, 205; in 1821, 208; in 1831, 210; in 1841, 204 ; and in 1851, 285. They are principally engaged in agriculture, and attend the Wigton and CarUsle markets. The manor of Orton, held under that of Levington, belonged at an early period to a family to whom it gave name. The first of the name that is recorded is Simon de Orton, who had issue Alan, and received from Henry III. a grant of free warren in Orton. He was succeeded by John, his son, to whom was granted, in 1340,' a license for making a park here. John de Orton was succeeded by his son Giles, whose daughter and heir Joan was married to Sir Clement de Skelton, who by her had four daughters, coheirs, one named Agnes, married to one of the Leighs of Isell, another to a member of the family of Bellasis, a third to one of the Ridleys, and the fourth to a Blennerhassot. The manor was thereupon divided into three parts, which came into the possession of the Leigh, Piidley, and Blen- nerhasset families; and the land was charged with a rent of £S to Bellasis, who sold the same to a Mr. Coldale, a merchant in Carlisle, and it afterwards came by marriage to a younger branch of the Briscos. Sub- sequently John Brisco purchased Leigh's part of Wil- frid Lawson and Maud his wife, and of Thomas Blenner- hasset the other portion. Accordingly, in 1588, it was found by an inquisition that " William Brisco, of Crofton, son of the said John, died seised of the manor of Orton, with 20 messuages, 400 acres of land, 40 acres of meadow, 200 acres of common, 100 acres of wood, in Orton aforesaid, togetlier with the donation and right of patronage of two parts in three to be divided of the parish church of the aforesaid manor of Orton, iCart Rot. U Edward III. 33. When John de Orton was caUed upon to prove his right to free warren iu 1300, he alleged that this charter was destroyed when the town of Orton was burnt by the Scots. The claim was not allowed. Quo Warranto EoU, 29 Edward I. manor of Levington, by two parts of one knight's fee. And that the third part of the said manor of Orton, late the inheritance of Nicholas Ridley, Esq., deceased, and all and every the messuages, lands, tenements, and hereditaments, to the said third part belonging, were holden of the queen in capite by the service of the third part of one knight's fee ; and that the said two parts were worth by the year abov.e reprizes £,h 6s. 8d., and the said third part £2 13s. 4d." Not long after Ridley's portion came into the same family by purchase. For in 1025, John Brisco, son of the William above mentioned, claimed the entire patronage, which being appendant to the manor, was, when it was severed and divided into three parts, enjoyed alternately by all the three ; but ever since that time it has remained in the Brisco family, and is now enjoyed by Sir Wastel Brisco, the present lord of the manor, who holds a court here annually, and receives about £40 a year as lord's rent. The manor of Wiggonby, iu this parish, long ago anni- hilated, belonged to the Ortons, and was divided among their representatives. The principal landowners in the township are Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; Messrs. George Robinson, George Blaylock, William Lowtbcr, John Stordy, the trustees of the late John Moore, Thomas Wannop, William Nixon, and Thomas Norman. The village of Orton is five miles west-by-south of Carlisle. From an adjacent enclosure called Parson's Thorn, no fewer than fifteen churches may be seen iu Cumberiand, and several in Scotland, with beautiful views of Carlisle, Gretna, and many other places. From the many Roman causeways and other foundations which have been from time to time dug up near the village, it is evident that Orton was at one time a place of some consequence, and most probably a market town. At the extremity of a lane that extends 300 yards northward of the village, is a large foss or double ditch, where an iron chain went across the road, and was locked every night, called Barrass Gate, made as a defence against the frequent incursions of the Scots or 176 CUMBERLAND WARD. Moss Troopers. The entrance from the east had a similar defence, and the whole parish was surrounded with a ditch and an embankment, called the llingfence, within which was found several years ago, a very curious and neat sandal, buried in the peat moss. Tradition says, that on one occasion, a trooper, while reconnoi- tring near Barrass Gate, was nailed to his saddle by an arrow discharged from a great distance by a yeoman of the name of Wilson. THE CHURCH. Orton church, an ancient structure, situated near the centre of the parish, is dedicated to St. — The living, a rectory in the patronage of Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart., is valued in the King's Book at £9. In 1795 it was valued at £140, and is now worth about £370, including seventy acres of glebe land. The tithes have been commuted. The parish register commences in 1509. Rectors.— John, 1303 ; John de Whitrigg, 1337 ; William de Arthureth, 1337; Richard de Langworthy, 1376; Thomas de Raaghton, U07; Richard Place, — ; Leonard Lowlher, 1578; William Mey, 1585 ; Mr. Burton, 1013 ; John Pearson, 1C6.5 ; Oaven Noble, — ; Rowland Noble, 1693 ; David Bell, 1709 ; John Brisco, 1730; William Taylor, 1771; James Brisco, 1772 ; John Mason, 18i5 ; Robert Pearson, 1845; Frederick Paget Willnnson, 1857. The parisli school is a stone building, situated near the church, and has an average attendance of forty children. The master receives £3 17s. 6d., the interest of £100, left by Thomas Pattinson, in 1785, for which eight children are taught at half the usual quarterage.^ About a mile from Orton is another school, built in 1836. New schools are just about being built by Sir Wastel Brisco, on a beautiful site, at the south entrance to the village. Bishop Nicolson was a native of this parish; an outline of his life will be found in the annals of the Bishop of Carlisle, page 111. Richard Di.Kon was master of Orton school for nearly fifty years, and styled himself " Happy Dick," an appel- ' See Bowness parish page l-OO. lation which was ever afterwards bestowed upon him by the parishioners, most of whom he educated. He died in 1811, and his long and faithful life is commemorated by the following inscription on his tomb : — " Seven times se^ And canvassed i Five times seve He served iiere ?n years lie taught this school, jany a tedious rule ; years, as you may mark, is parish clerk. I just i ad upright man, life could scan, :s beneath this clod. Till called upon to meet his God." Bow is a hamlet in this township, one and a half miles north of the village. B.^LDWIN HOLME. The number of inhabitants in this township in 1801 was 205; in 1811, 217; in 1821, 234; in 1831, 235; in 1841, 278; and in 1851, 234. The soil here is similar to that of Great Orton, clayey with a mi.xture of gravel. Baldwin Holme forms part of the manor of Orton, and as such its manorial rights and privileges are possessed by Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. The princi- pal landowners are Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; Messrs. Twentyman, James Hayes, Mrs. Pattison, John Hind, Robert Blamire, John Newton, Mrs. Bowes, Joseph Railton, Robert Story, Joseph AVood, John Mc.Knght, and Arthur AVestmoreland. The hamlet of Baldsvin Holme is one and a half miles south-by-east of Great Orton. Baldwin Holme is not far from the line of the ancient Roman road from Lugubalia, Carhsle, to Olenacum, Old Carlisle. The other hamlets are Little Orton, one and a half miles north-east ; Orton Rigg, one mile south, and Wood Houses, one and a half miles south of the same place. Hylton Castle, about two and a half miles south-east of Orton, is also in this township. It is an elegant man- sion, erected a few years ago by Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart., for his son, Hylton Brisco, Esq., an officer in the army. Near to Little Orton is a spring of excellent water, never known to run dry. ROCKLIFFE PARISH. RocKLiFFE parish is bounded on the north by the estuary of the rivers Esk and Line, on the west by the Solway Frith, on the south by the river Eden and Stanwix parish, and on the cast by Kirklintou parish in Eskdale Ward. The name is derived from the conspicuous red sandstone chff on which the village stands. It was anciently written Routheclive, and sometimes Redeclive. The manor of Rockliffe, which was coextensive with the parish, was anciently a fee or appendage of the Barony of Burgh, though not within the boundary of that barony. It was granted by Hugh de Morvill, liaron of Burgh, in the reign of Henry II., to John de Routheclive ; to hold of his Barony of Burgh by render of homage, service, and 2s. rent. William de Routhe- clive, sou of John, in the year 1205 sold and conveyed ROCKLIFFE PAniSII. 177 the ' Vill of Koutbeclive ' to Radulf de Bray, who was one of the king's maishaUs for England. He granted the rectory to John, prior of Saint Mary's, in Cariisle, who appropriated the same to the Priory. Richard de Bray, son of Radulf, had an only child, Matilda, who married William de HardreshuU. In the 33rd year of Henry IK,, W. de Hardrcshull and Matilda his wife (with the concurrence of John de Ladhrook and Joan his wife, which Joan was widow and dowress of Richard de Bray) conveyed the manor to John le Fraunceis. To him succeeded Gilbert le Fraunceis, who died in 1278, leaving a son Richard, aged sixteen years. A dispute ensued concerning the wardship of this manor. Tho- mas de Multon, baron of Gillesland and Burgh, claimed it in virtue of Rockliffe being held of his barony of Burgh. The crown claimed on an assertion that the manor was held of the king in capite. A writ of diem clansit extremum was issued, and an inquisition found that the manor was held of Multon, by payment of 2s. rent, and by payment of 13d. cornage to the king's exchequer at Carlisle. How this cornage payment arose it does not appear. Meantime, Michael de Hercla took possession of the minor, and married him to his daughter : iu consequence of which the king seized Michael's lands and lined him. The real name of this family was Vernouu — Fraunceis, or Francigena being an appellation given in consequence of their French origin, as Denton says. Thus, in the 18th year of Edward I., Richard Vernoun surrendered the manor to the king — and in the 22nd Edward I. took a fresh grant of it to himself for life, with remainder to his son Richard and Alienor his wife, and the heirs of their bodies, remain- der to the heirs of Richard in fee. Isabella, daughter and heiress, carried it in marriage to Thomas DanyeU, who died 1349, leaving an infant daughter, Margaret, who afterwards married John de Radchff. In 1368, they created an entail of the property on collaterals, having then no issue themselves. It was subsequently sold by a Radclifif to the Dacres ; and so became re- united to the barony of Burgh. The precise date of this reunion does not appear, but it certainly was in possession of Ranulf Lord Dacre in 1460. Camden informs us that here was " a Uttle castle built not long since by the Dacres for their own private defence." It stood on the chff, commanding a fine view of the Scot- tish border, and was admirably placed as an outpost for the defence of Burgh against the Scots. It was seized and garrisoned by Leonard Dacre, on his rebellion in 1569, and soon afterwards demohshed. Nothing remains of it save some foundations. On the partition of the Dacre estates Rockliffe fell to the Countess of Arundel, and from her to the Duke of Norfolk. The castle and demesnes, and most part of the customary tenements, were sold, in 1682, by the Duke, to the Rev. Charles Usher, a descendant of Archbishop Usher, who erected a mansion on the site of the castle. His granddaughter, Madam Usher, in 1745, was there residing, and is said to have been visited there by the young Pretender, Charles Edward, who, with the Highland clans, crossed the river Eden at Rockliffe, on their march to Carlisle. Mrs. Usher devised to William Strong, Esq., who, in 1760, enfranchised most of the customary estates, and his descendant sold the demesnes and remaining cus- tomary tenements to Robert Mounsey, Esq. The village of Rockliffe occupies a pleasant situation on a long chff above the Eden, five miles north-north- west of Carlisle, and commands a beautiful view of the surrounding country. A little below the village, within reach of the tide, there is a remarkable mineral spring ; there is another in one of the farmyards. The parish contains two townships, viz., Rockliffe Castletown and Rockliffe Churchtown; but for all prac- tical purposes of rating, maintenance of poor, highways, itc, they are conjoint. nOCKLIFFE CASTLETOWN. The population of this township in 1801 was 296; in ] 811, 338 ; in 1821, 360 ; in 1831, 422 ; iu 1841, 471 ; and in 1851, 400. Its area is 5,225 statute acres, and its rateable value £2,289. The principal landowners are, George G. Mounsey, Esq. ; Rev. John Hodgson ; the Misses Lowry ; Mrs. Skelton, John Ni.xon, and Robert and William Edgar. The soil in the neighbour- hood of the Eden is a rich loam, with a large extent of alluvial salt marsh ; in other parts there is arable land of a cold clay description, and also of black peat soil. The Caledonian railway runs through this township. At Castletown is the mansion of George Gill Mounsey, Esq., beautifully situated on the north bank of the Eden, and surrounded with woods, shi-ubberies, &c. ^transtg of CasilclofBn. The Rev. Robeet Mounsey, perpetual curate of Ravenstone- dale, CO. Westmoreland (sun of George ilounsey, of Heltondale, Westmoreland), married Mary Winter, of Tebay.in the same couLty, and had issue, Geoeoe; Robert, of London; Mary Elizabeth ; and Anne. The elder son, Geokge Mounsey, Esq., of Carlisle, married, in 175a, Mar- garet, daughter of John Stephenson, of Carlisle, and by her (who died 1807) had issue, I. George Stephenson, major E. I. Co.'s service. II. EOBEBT, of whom presently, ui. John, who died unmarried. IV, William, post-captain R.N. T. Thomas. Ti. Henry, of London, died unmarried. Tii. James, married Anne Ewart. 178 CUMBERLAND "WARD. I. Barbara, married to Thomas Ramsliay, o( Nanorili. n. Mary, died unmanied. III. llargaret, married to Janies Dundas. IV. Elizabeth, married to Johu Gray. V. Ann, died unmarried. VI. Dorothea, marri'jd to Christopher Thornhill. The second son, Robert Mounsp.t, of Rockliffe Castletown, married 23rd Kovember, 1789, Mary, daughter of Captain Joseph Gill, and by her (who died 1810) had issue, I. George Gill, his heir, now of Castletown. II. William lienrj-, late capt. 4th Kegt. liJantry. I. Margaret. II. Juliana, married to John Lambert, Esq., of Alnwick. III. Miu-y, died unmarried. IV. Anna, married to Thomas Brown, Esq. V. Elizabeth. Mr. Mounsey died 26th July, 1842, and was succeeded by George Glll Mocnsey, of Kockhffe Castletown, bom 27th May, 1797, married Gth September, 1837, to Isabella, daughter of John Heysham, M.D., and by her (who tUed lith May, 1618) has issue, I. Robert Hetsham, born 20th July, 1828. II. George William, born 3rd April, 1831. III. John Giles, bom 22nd August, 1832. IV. Augustus Henry, born 27th August, 1834. V. Charles James, bom 13lh December, 1835. I. Elizabeth Mary, died 9th June, 1850. II. Isabella Dorothea. Cresl — \ demi-grifiSn, with a wreath of oak round the neck, and bearing, with three claws, a banner, erect. Molto — Semper paratus. Eodhill, Floristown, Garistown, Cross, Croft End, Tod Hills, and Wetheral, are hamlets scattered over this township at various distances from Eockliffe Church. ROCKLIFFE CHUHCHTOWN. This township contains 1,347 acres, and its rateable value is £1,061. Its population in 1801 was 222 ; in 1811, 250; in 1821, 302; in 1831, 463; in 1841, 353 ; and in 1851, 535. The soil is rich and loamy near the Eden. The Caledonian railway interseo.ts the township, and there is a station within half a mile, or thereabouts, of the village. THE CUUKCH. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a small but neat structure of hewn stone, in the Decorated style, erected in 1848 at a cost of d£l,400, raised partly by subscription, but chiefly by the liberality of George Gill Mounsey, Esq., of Castletown. It consists of nave, chancel, north transept, and a handsome spire at the south-west corner. The windows are filled with stained glass, of beautiful colours and design. The eastern window contains the Crucifixion, Resurrection, and Ascension, while the west one contains figures of the Blessed Virgin, St. Peter, and St. Paul. The church contains sittings for 170 persons, the whole of which are free and unappropriated. The benefice is now a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the dean and chapter of Carlisle, to whom, on the dissolution of the priory, the appropriate rectory was granted by Henry VIII. It is worth about £100 per annum, arising from Queen Anne's Bounty and a money payment by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, in whom the tithes of the parish (commuted for a rent charge of £2t)4) are now vested. There is no glebe nor house of residence. Incumbents. — William Robinson, 1754; Jeremiah Reed, 1780; George Topping, 1S33. Previously to 17S4 it seems not to have been a benefice, but a mere curacy under the dean and chapter of Carlisle. There is no parochial school. A school is maintained by Mr. Mounsey capable of accommodating seventy scholars ; the average attendance is about sixty. CHAKITIES. Griersons Gift. — Mr. John Grierson, about a cen- tury ago, left the sum of 26s., payable yearly out of his lease of the tithes of Fiickerby, in the parish of StanwLx, to be distributed weekly in bread to poor persons in this parish. This payment was regularly made, and seven penny loaves given away every Sunday, until the lapse of the lease within a short time past, when it was lost. Ushers Gift. — Mrs. Hannah Usher, by her will, dated 24th September, 1747, gave to the minister and churchwardens of Piookliffe £20, the interest to be dis- tributed yearly amongst poor housekeepers. This money is in Mr. Mounsey's hands, and 20s. are yearly distributed according to the bequest. Harker is a hamlet in this township, situated at the I eastern extremity of the parish, three miles north-by- I west of Carlisle. I Harker Lodge is the seat of Richard Ferguson, Esq. I J^rgusmv of |5arbr fobgt. I RiCHAitD Feequson, grandfather of the present possessor of j Harker Lodge, left, by Mary his wife, a daughter, Mary, and five ! John, Richard, Robert, Joseph, and George. Of tliese, the third, i RoBEUT Ferguson, of Carlisle, married 27th December, 1782, Anne, daughter of Jolm Wood, of Maryport, and had issue, I. RicuARD, now of Ilarker Lodge. II. John, ilied 8th December, 1829. in. Joseph, married Maria Isabella, daughter of John Clarke, Esq., of Bebside, co. Northumberland, and has issue, John, Robert, Joseph Selby, Richard WiUiam, EUzabcth, and Maria Isabella. I. Mary. II. Sarah, married to George Henry Uewit, Esq., of Burgh, III. EUzabelh. Mr. Ferguson died 14ih Norember, 1816, and was succeeded by bis eldest son, RiouAUD Feuocson, Esq., J.P. and D.L., born 20lh May, STANWK PAEISH. 179 1781; high sheriff in 1835; married 25th May, 1 809, Margaret, third daughter of Captain William Giles. Crest— \ dcmi lion, holding in its paw a thistle, ppr. Motto — Marte el arte. The Hill, three miles north of Carlisle, is the seat of Sir James Robert Grant, Knt., inspector-general of army hospitals. The principal landowners in this township are George Gill Mounsey, Esq. ; Sir James Grant ; Richard Fer- guson, Esq.; Edmund Graham, Esq.; Rev. M.James; Mrs. Twcntyman ; and Mr. J. Donald. STANWIX PARISH. This parish is bounded on the north and north-west by the parishes of Scaleby, Kirldinton, and Rockhffe ; on the south by the river Eden ; and on the east by Crosby-upon-Eden and Waxwick. It is divided into the townships of Cai^o, Etterby, Houghton, Linstock, Rickerby, Stainton, Stanwix, and Tarraby. A survey with a map or plan has been made for the purpose of tithe commutation, and other parochial purposes ; the plan is deposited in the parish church. The inhabitants, who are located in the villages, and in single houses here and there scattered over the parish, are generally employed in agriculture, and are industrious and cleanly in their habits, and comfortable. The quality of the soil is various, some of it being very good, some of middling quality, and a portion much inferior. Much of it rests upon a clay subsoil, and is well adapted for the growth of wheat and other grain ; a considerable portion, especially near the river Eden, is a rich loam, naturally dry, a part of which consists of excellent permanent pasture ; in other parts of the parish the soil is poor, a portion being black soil, resting upon a poor sandy or gravelly moorband. The land is generally well cultivated and very productive, and along the banks of the Eden, and to some distance backward is extremely rich and beautiful, the views from different points being highly picturesque and interesting. The Caledonian railway passes through the parish. Carlisle being close at hand, the inhabitants attend that market town. The Rolnan Wall and Vallum passed through this parish, entering it on the north-east at Walby, in the parish of Crosby-upon-Eden, and running in a south-west direction through the townships of Linstock, Tarraby, and Stanwix, where they cross the river Eden. In many places their site, with the ditch, can be distinctly traced : the latter passing through the farmyard of Drawdykes, while the former runs along the ridge of high ground to the north of the other. A Roman road, or trackway, can be traced running parallel to the Wall, a few hundred yards to the south. There was a Roman station at Stanwix. Several Roman monuments have been found, which have been described by different antiquaries ; amongst others one btult in the garden wall of Drawdykes Castle. Another has- very recently been brought to light in making a doorway between the farmhouse and the castle, where, on removing the plaster from the wall, a stone with a Roman inscription was found built into the wall, but no reading of the inscription has as yet been given, it having been discovered so very lately. of the city reside. "The chm'ch and churchyard," says Collingwood Bmce, " occupy the site of the station which guarded the northern bank of the Eden. Recent explorations have displayed distinct remains of ancient edifices. In pulling down the old church, to make way for the present structure, a very fine figure of Victory, somewhat mutilated, was disclosed, which is now in the museum at Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The name of the place indicates that, whilst the dwellings in the vicinity were made of clay, as many of them are yet, by reason of the plunder of the Roman station, it could boast of being a toini of stones. The situation is one of great beauty. To the east, at a considerable distance, the Nine-nicks of Thidwall rear their rugged peaks ; and to the south and south-east appear the beautiftd grounds of Rickerby House, the river Eden permeating a rich STANWIX. This township comprises an area of 425 acres, and its rateable value is £;3,025. The number of its inha- bitants in 1801 was 337; in 1811, 400 ; in 1821, 400; in 1831, 545 ; in 1841 , 789 ; and in 185 ! , 882. Stanwix is parcel of the manor of the socage of the castle of Cariisle, and the lands are all freehold. The principal landowners are the Duke of Devonshire, Cap- tain Watts, Richard Ferguson, Esq., and George H. Head, Esq. The village of Stanwix is delightfully situated on the north bank of the Eden, across which there is a fine stone bridge, connecting it with Carhsle, of which it may be considered as forming a large and populous suburb. It contains several well-built houses and ter- races, where several of the merchants and tradespeople 180 CUMBERLAND WARD. and well-wooded country, the ancient city of Carlisle crowued with its venerable cathedral, and tlie long vista of country terminating in the Cumbrian mountains. Between the station and the north bank of the Eden, the fosse of the Wall is distinctly marked, and a hollow line, formed by the excavation of the foundation of the Wall itself, shows its track to the water's edge, near to the Hyssop Holme Well. We are told by Camden ' that the Wall passed the river over against the castle, where, in the very channel, the remains of it, namely, the great stones, appear to this day.' That the Wall on the other side of the river clambered up that part of the castle bank which projects most boldly forward, is rendered probable by the appearance of masonry, resembling its foundations, beneath the grassy surface. At this point, however, we lose all sight of the great structure, until we get beyond the boundaries of the famous border city of the west." ' THE CHUnCH. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, is a cruciform structure, in the Early English style, consisting of nave, aisles, transept, chancel ornamented with crosses, and fine tower surmounted with pinnacles. It was erected by subscription in 1841, at a cost of £3,030, includiug about £300 for an organ, and occupies the site of the old parish church, which was built on the place, and partly out of the ruins of the Roman station of Congavata. On the 21st December, 1843, the church was partially burnt; and the pews, windows, and organ, were completely destroyed. It was insured for £'000, which, wiih £100 collected by subscription, were expended on its renovation, and in the purchase of its present large and splendid organ, built by Hill, of London, which is considered one of the finest in the north of England. The eastern window is filled with stained glass, containing figures of our Saviour, St. Michael, and St. John the Evangelist. The tower contains a fine clock, with three dials, pre- sented by Richard Ferguson, Esq., of Harker Lodge. The church will accommodate about 800 persons. The living is a vicarage, valued in the King's Book at £9, but now worth about £300 a-year, including £51 6s. 8d. from the bishop and dean and chapter, Easter dues, &c. The tithes were commuted in 1840 for a rent-charge of ' About three years ngo, in cutting the main sewer for the Carlisle scwerngc works, tlie workmen came upon the foundation of the Roman Wall, in the low grouiul, between where it crosses to the west of Slanwix nn-l the high grnnml to the west of Carlisle castle, known by the name of Davidson's Banks, and in a straight line with tlie foundation of the Wall at Stanwix. As this is a consiilerable dis- tance to the norih of the costle, this takes away the supposition "that ilu' Wall on the oiher sirle of the river clambered up ihat part the casilc bank which projects most boldly forward." £200 a-year. The benefice was formerly a rectory ; but being given by Walter, chaplain to Henry I., to the prior and convent of Carlisle, was soon afterwards ap- propriated thereto ; and the corn tithes have been shared between the dean and chapter and the bishop, the latter of whom appoints the vicar. The parish register com- mences in 1050. VicAEs.— Adam, 1300; Gilbert de Derlyngton, 1300 ; Johnde Appleby, ; Thomas Hagg, 1316; Richard de Caldbeck, ; Richard de Aslacby, 1358 ; Thomas de CuUerdone, 1359 ; William Byx, 1405; Thomas Best, 1473; Edward Rothion, 1477; Thomas Boyet, 1487; Henry Brown, ; Richard Phayer, 1577; Mark Edgar, 1579; John Braythwaite, 1585; Thomas Langhorn, ICO'i ; John Robinson, 1614; John Jaekson, ; Robert Brown, 1G35 ; Richard Welshman, 1639; George Buchanan, 1661; Henry Marshall, 16C0; Jeremiali Nelson, 1667; John Tomlinson, 1676; Hugh Todd, 1685; Nathaniel Spooner, 1688; George Fleming, 1703; Thomas Benson, 1705; John Waugh, 1727; James Parish, 1765; William Paley, 1793; John Farrar, 1795 ; Joseph Hudson, 1S08; Thomas Willdnson, 1840. The vicarage house, erected about thirty years ago, is pleasantly situated adjoining the churchyard. There are two schools here, one erected in 1840, the other in 1855. There are eight pupil teachers. In one school there are about iiOO children in average attendance, in the other about CO. There is a reading-room in the village, which is sup- ported by about 70 members, and possesses a library of about VO I volumes. Here is a Reformatory for boys convicted of petty theft, which is open to criminals from the counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland, Lancashire, and the North Riding of Yorkshire. It was established in 1854 by George H. Head, Esq., of Rickerby House, by whom it is entirely supported. The boys work eight and a half hours per day, devote three hours to school, one hour to religious instruction, and two and a half hours to meals and play. No specific time is allotted for their residence here; the object being the moral and social reformation of each boy; his thorough instruction in the habits of order, cleanliness, and industry, so that they may become as it were a portion of himself, and thus fit him for returning to society a new being, with every rational guarantee of his becoming a useful citizen. None but boys who have been in prison are elegible for admission, and they must be recommended by the magistrates, or chaplain of the gaol, and other persons interested in the reformation of juvenile offen- ders. The course of instruction embraces reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, and grammar. Mr. Head attends regularly and takes part in the instruc- tion of the boys. The Reformatory is under the super- intendence of Mr. and Mrs. Council. STANWIX PARISH. 181 CHABIIIES. Benson's Charity. — Dr. Benson, who died about the year 1720, bequeathed £50 to the poor of this parish, to be disposed of iu tlie same manner as a similar legacy left by him to the parish of Dalston. Graham's Charity. — Monkhouse Graham, by will dated [17th June, 1805, directed his e.xecutors to pay ^100 to the rector of Stanwix, to be placed out by him, and the interest thereof to be laid out on every 24th December, in the purchase of bread, to be dis- tributed amongst sober, honest, and industrious poor housekeepers, or labouring individuals, without distinc- tion of communions, residing within the said parish, iu such shares as the rector should think proper. In con- sequence of the failure of a bank in Carlisle, some years ago, the benefactions are now reduced to £100, the interest of which is distributed in bread at Christ- mas. Gowland's Bequest. — There was also another bequest made by William Gowland, in 1792, but it was never received. Miss Patrickson's Charity. — Miss Patrickson, who died 3t Houghton-town-head, January 15th, 1854, be- queathed the sum of £100 to the vicar and church- wardens of Stanwix for the time being, the interest to be applied for the benefit of poor and indigent persons resident in the parish. She also bequeathed the further sum of £100 to the vicar and churchwardens of Stanwix, the interest to be applied for the purposes of the school then recently erected there. Sowerhy's Charity. — William Sowerby, who died at Stanwix in 1835, bequeathed £200, the interest to be applied for the benefit of poor persons resident in the township of Stanwix ; and also a further sum of £200, for the purposes of the school at Stanwix. The area of Cargo township is 1,196 statute acres, and its rateable value £1,675. Its population in 1801 , was 237; in 1811, 243; in 1821, 274; in 1831, 242; in 1841, 259; and in 1851, 293. The township is intersected by the Caledonian railway. The tithes of Cargo were commuted in 1841, for£173. The first recorded possessor of Cargo is John de Lacy, constable of Chester, who held the same imme- diately of the King, by cornage. This John de Lacy granted Cargo and Criugledyke to WUliam de Vescy and his heirs, lords of Alnwick, in Northumberland, to be held of the donor and his heirs, for a mewed hawk yearly, in lieu of all services. William de Vescy, in his turn, granted it to Sir Ewan Carlisle, but reserving to himself and his hours similar services. Li 1274, Robent de Eoss, lord of Wark, in Tyndalc, died seised of this manor, having held the same of William de Carlisle the younger, rendering yearly a hawk or mark in lieu of all services. It continued in the family of de Ross for many generations, until 1 338, and shortly after, when Elizabeth de Ross, the heir general, trans- ferred the inheritance to the family of the Parrs of Kendal, with whom it remained till Ellen, Marchioness of Northampton, widow of WUliam Law, gave it in exchange to Queen Elizabeth. It was subsequently granted by King James to the Whitmores, by whom it was possessed in 1 088 ; it was afterwards bouglit by the Dacres, who sold it, in 1793, to Joseph Lamb, Esq., of Newcastle-upon-Tyne; it is now the property of Charles John Lamb, Esq. The principal landowners are Messrs. Thomas James, William Robinson, Richard Ferguson, Francis Holland, John Norman, Mrs. Twenty- man, William Lowry , Charles Conway, John and Thomas Bone, and the Rev. John Lowry. The village of Cargo is about three mUes north- north-west of Carlisle. At the entrance of the village there is a substantial, commodious, and well-arranged school, with a house for the master, erected in 1856, according to plans approved of by the Lords of the Committee of Council on Education, at a cost of £258, on a site kindly given by T. James, Esq. It is under government inspection, conducted by a certificated teacher, and has an average attendance of about sixty children. During the summer mouths divine service is held in the school-room every Sunday afternoon. ETTERBV. This township comprises an area of 297 acres, and its rateable value is £1,254 14s. 4d. In 1801 it con- tained 49 inhabitants; m 1811, 51; in 1821, 67; in 1831, 110; in 1841, 152; and in 1851, 204. The Caledonian railway runs through the township. The soil here is strong, and incumbent upon a strong clay subsoil. " Etterby " say Nicolson and Burn, " in old writings is called Arthuriburgum, which seems to imply that it had been a considerable village. Some affii-m that it took its name from Aithur lung of the Britons, who was in this country about the year 550, pursuing his victo- ries over the Danes and Norwegians. But there are no remains of antiquity at or near this place to justify such a conjecture." Etterby is parcel of the manor of Westlinton and barony of Burgh, under the Earl of Lonsdale. The chief landowners are Messrs. John Saul, John and Thomas Allison, John Fawcett, and Henry T. White. 182 CUMBERLAND WARD. LINSTOCK. This township comprises an area of 1,133 acres, and its rateable value is £1,665. In 1801 it contained 167 inhabitants; in ISll, 192; in 1821, 231; in 1831, 228 ; in 1841, 220 ; and in 1851, 220. The soil here is alluvial, on a clay subsoil, and some with a sandy bottom. Linstock was granted by Henry I. to his chaplain Walter, and by him given to the prior and convent of Carlisle. After the creation of the see, the bishop and convent held their lauds in common, till a partition was made by Gualo, the papal legate, by which, among otlier manors, Linstock was appropriated to the bishop, and Linstock Castle was for a long time the only seat of the bishops of Carlisle. Bishop Irton died at the castle in 1292, and the next year Bishop Halton entertained Johannes Romanus and his suite of three hundred per- sons. In the year 1307, Edward, with his queen and court, were at Linstock from the Cth of March till the 12th, when he removed to Carlisle. The castle was repaired and modernised about a century ago, by John Nicolson, the lessee of the estate. The ancient square tower, probably the donjon or keep, still remains. It is of red freestone, with walls of great thickness and strength ; a portion of the moat with which the struc- ture was formerly surrounded still exists. There is no record of the date of the erection of the castle, which must have been at one time much more extensive than its present remains would lead us to suppose, from its having for so long a period been the residence of the bishops, and from the many royal and other visitors who were from time to time entertained within its walls. The Bishop of Carlisle is lord of the manor of Lin- stock, which includes the parish of Crosby-upon-Edeu. The principal part of the estate of Linstock Castle was held by lease under the bishop, but is now held in a similar manner under the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. The landowners are John James Watts, Esq., Thomas Donald, Esq., James Boustead, Esq., George Baiubridge, Esq., Mrs. Saul, the Misses Coleman, AVilliam Bou- stead, Esq., with several small proprietors. The village of Linstock is situated near the Eden, about two and a half miles north-east of Carlisle. Here is a small place of worship, erected by G. H. Head, Esq., in which prayers are read on Sunday evenings. BICKERBY. The rateable value of Rickerby township is £1,046, and its area 560 stitute acres. It contained, in 1801, 85 inhabitants; in 1811, 108; in 1821, lOS; in 1831, 74; in 1841, 92; and in 1851, 02. Rickerby, or Richardby, is a mense manor under Linstock, formerly belonging to the Tilliols, afterwards to the Pickerings and Westons, from the latter of whom it was purchased by Sir Edward Musgrave. From the Musgraves it passed by sale to the Studholmes, then to the Gilpins, in which family it continued three generations ; Mr. Richardson afterwards purchased what had not been sold off to the tenants. From the Richard- sons it passed to the Grahams, and is now all enfran- chised. The principal landowners are George H. Head, Esq., and Miss Aglionby. The village of Rickerby is about one and a half miles east-by-north of Carlisle. It contains a school, a neat stone buUding, erected in 1830, by G. H. Head, Esq., and capable of accommodating about eighty children ; average attendance about fifty. Rickerby House, the residence of George H. Head, Esq., is a fine mansion, occupj'ing an eligible situation about a mile east of Carlisle. ST.UNTON. The population of Stainton in 1801 was 63 ; in 1811, 64; in 1821, 71; in 1831, 67; in 1841, 69; and in 1851, 55. The area of the township is 585 statue acres, and its rateable value £1,046. The soil here is rich and loamy, with a partly clayey subsoil. The Caledonian railway intersects the township. Stainton is a mense manor, being parcel of tlic manor of Westliutou and the barony of Burgh. It be- longed to the Musgraves of Crookdake, in this county, from whom it was transferred by sale to the Earl of Lonsdale, the greater part of it being previously enfran- chised; it is now held under the barony of Burgh, as above. The principal landowners are Mrs. Allison, Thomas K. Atkinson, Esq., William James, Esq., Messrs. John Norman, Nanson, and Young ; William Robinson, Miss Andrew, and Joseph Johnson. The tithes were commuted in 1839, the corn tithe for £74 lis., and the vicar's for £8 Is. Id.; total, £82 12s. Id. The village of Stainton is two miles west-north-west of Carlisle. Tliis township comprises an area of 484 acres, and its rateable value is £895. The number of its inhabi- tants in 1801 was 110; in 1811, 131; in 1821, 153; in 1831, 138 ; in 1841, 135 ; and in 1851, 150. The manor of Tarraby was conveyed by John Aglionby, Esq., in exchange, to Sir John Lowther, who again exchanged it with the Dalstous for an estate in West- moreland. It was sold to the tenants about the year HOUGHTON ECCLESIASTICAL DISTRICT. 183 1764, by Sir William Dalston. The principal land- owners are Charles Fetherstonhaugh, Esq., Joliu Fer- guson, Esq., Thomas Graham, Esq., and George Eobin- son, Esq. Drawdykes Castle, in this township, is a mansion of the Aglionbys, on the site of au ancient castle, which was taken down in the seventeenth century, and rebuilt in its present fonn by John Aglionby, Esq. This castle, which had been among the earliest possessions of the Aglionbys, in Cumberland, upon the demise of Christopher Aglionby, Esq., the last heir male in 1789, passed under a decree of chancery to John Orfeur Yates, Esq., of Skirwith Abbey, who married Mary, the youngest daughter of the coheiresses. The Drawdykyes estate is free of toll of the city of Carlisle, a privilege which was confirmed to the tenants at the assizes in 1775. Many Roman inscribed stones &c. have been found here; among others a Roman inscription " coh iin pro ros nx viT.\LES." which Horseley read " Cohortis quartae Pretoriana; posuit centuria Julii Vitalis." HOUGHTON ECCLESIASTIC .\L DISTRICT. The ecclesiastical district of Houghton was formed out Kingmoor, by an order in council, dated November 2'2nd, HOrGHTON. The area of Houghton township is 1478 acres, and its rateable value is £1,795. Its population in 1801, was 226 ; in 1811, 243 ; in 1821, 288 ; in 1831, 384 ; m 1841, 372; and in 1851, 381. The soil here is good and strong. The manor of Houghton and Tarraby came anciently by marriage to the Aglionbys, who were lords thereof for several generations, until John Aglionby, Esq., ex- changed it with Sir John Lowther, Bart ; who in his turn exchanged it for the manor of Melkinthorp, in AVestmoreland, with Christopher Dalston, Esq., whose heir, Su- WiUiam Dalston, sold the same about the year 1764 to the tenants. The landowners are Messrs. John Dixon, Richard Ferguson, John Forster, John Ferguson, Thomas H. Hodgson, Robert Patrickson, Clement S. Sutton, John F. Anderson, with some small proprietor's. The village of Houghton, which is small and irregu- i larly built, is about two miles north-by-east of Carlisle, j THE CHURCH. Near to the village is St. John's District Church, erected chiefly by subscription in 1840, and contain- ing accommodation for 300 persons. It is of white freestone from the Shalk quarries, near Dalston, and consists of nave, chancel, and tower. The church is I endowed with land yielding £'40 a year. The tithes were commuted, in 3 842, for £138 8s., viz.: the corn tithe for £128 7s. 6d., and the vicar's tithe for - £10 8s. 6d. John DLxon, Esq., is the patron, and the Eev. J. Buck, D.C.L., incumbent. The parsonage house is a plain but neat building. of Stanwix parish and the extra - parochial place of 1841, and comprised in 1851 a population of 502. The school is a small stone structure, close to the church. It was rebuilt in 1841, wiU accommodate seventy children, and has an average attendance of forty. CUAPJTY. Miss Patrickson's Charity. — Miss Patrickson, who died at Houghton-town-head in 1854, bequeathed the sum of £200 to the resident clergyman and church- wardens of Houghton, to apply the interest for the benefit of poor and indigent persons resident in the township of Houghton ; and also a further sum of £200, to be applied for the purposes of the school at Houghton, so long as such school shall be under the superintendence of the National School Society. The Knells is a beautiful mansion, the seat of John DLxon, Esq. ^mn of Jlnills- Peter Dixon, Esq., son of John, and grandson of Cliristopher, of Edmond Castle, married 2nd September, 1783, 3Iary, daugh- ter of Richard Ferguson, Esq., of Carlisle, and had issue, I. JoHK, now of Knells. II. Richard Ferguson, deceased. HI. Peter, married Sarah Rebecca, daughter of Lieut.-Geueral Clarke, E.I.CS., and has issue, Peter Sydenham, Henry Hall, F. Clarke, .John, Joseph, Edward, Sarah Rebecca, Au- gusta Jane, and Catherine Anne. IT. George, married M;u^-, yonngest daughter of the Rev. Jona- than Boucher, vicar of Epsom, Surrey. V. Robert, deceased. VI. Joseph, married Anne, daughter of WUson Perry, Esq., of Whitehaven, and has issue Peter Wilsou, and Joseph. I. Frances, died unmarried in 1818. II. Mary, died unmarried in 1&32. John Dixon, Esq., of Knells, J.P., high sheriff in 1838, and mayor of Carlisle in 1839 and 1840, born Q6th October, 1785, 184 CUMBERLAND WARD. married 22nd November, 1814, Mary Tirzali, daughter of the late Captain Stordy, 31st regiment, and has issue, I. Peter James. u. Bobert Stordy, iUh Lancers. in. Kicbiu-d Ferguson, died 3rd November, ISIO. IT. George Hodgson. T. William Giles, died in 18311. 1. Mary Sarah, died (Hh February, 1821. n. Saroli, married to Charles W. Thompson, sou of Colonel T. Perronett Thompson. ni. Jane Kleanor, married to James Robert Grout, son of Sir James Grant. IV. Mary Tirzah, died in April, 1827. V. Elizabeth, died iu 1824. TI. Henrietta. TU. Maria Rebecca. chief. bees, volant, < Arms—Az., a dove, statant, ppr. ; a chief, of the last, thereon three pall Crest— In fn^nt nf an anchor, in bend sinister, sa., a dexter cubit arm ereit, ppr., iu the hand on olive branch, also ppr. 3/o(/o — Peace. Houghtou Hall is the seat of Peter James Dixon, Esq. Houghton House is the seat and residence of Thomas Houghtou Hodgson, Esq. pobgson of pougbtoit |ious£. William Hodgson, Esq., son of George Hodgson, Esq., by Jane his wife, and granddaughter of Joseph Hodgson, by Eliza- beth, his wife, married in 1707, Elizabeth, daughter of Joseph Stordy; and had, besides, the late William Hodgson, Esq., of Houghton House, another son and two daughters, viz., II. Joseph, married Sarah Nicholson, of Bat House, parish of Crosby, and has issue. Willi.; Nicholson, iiianied Mary, daughter of Thomas Irwin, Ksq, J.F 2. Joseph Stordy, I holy orders, married 6th August, 1840, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Thomas Dahymple Hesketh, Bart., of Eufford Hall, and has issue. 3. Sarah Grace, married to JohnFawcett, Esq., of Petterill Bank, barrisler-at-law. I. Isabella, married to Thomas Atkinson, Esq., of Carlisle, J.P. u. Elizabeth, married to David Douald, Esq. William Hodgson, Esq., of Houghton House, J. P. and D.L., five times mayor of Carlisle, bom 9th February, 1773; married 17th June, 180(1, Anne, eldest daughter of Thomas Young, Esq., and by her (who died 22nd December, 1851) he left at his decease, 14th January, 1854, I. Thomas Houghton, now of Houghton House. II. William Henry, born lOUi June, 1815. III. Joseph Lowlher, bom 27th September, 1818; married Jane Eleanor, widow of James R. Grant, Esq., and daughter of John Dixon, Esq., and has issue Annie and Mabel. IV. George Courteney, bom 25th December, 1821, married Elizabeth, daughter of John Bircham, Esq., and has William George Courtenay, Henry Bernard, and Annette Isabel. v. Charles Bernard, bom 2l3t May, 1821, I. Annette, married first, Lieutenant-Colonel Cowper,C.B.; and secondly, the Rev. William Deacon Isaacs, of Harts Hill, n. Elizabeth, married to the Rev. William M. Thompson, of Woolwich. Mr. Hodgson died as above, and was succeeded by his son, Thom.\s Houghton Hodgson, Esq., born 2nd January, 1813, married 19lh April, 1842, Elizabeth, eldest daughter of the Rev. Robert Gutch, of Seagrove, Leicestershire. ^rms— Sa., a chev., between three martlets, or. Crest— A dove, close, az., holding in his beak a sprig of laurel, ppr. j)/o/(o— Dread God. UPPERBY PARISH. This parish, comprising the several townships of Upperby, Harraby, Botcherby, Blackwell High, Blackwell Low, Biisco, Carleton, and a small portion of Botchergate, was formed into a legal district for ecclesiastical purposes in the year 1 846, the cure of souls in these townships being assigned to the church of St. John at Upperby, and the incumbent thereof for ever, according to the provisions of an act passed in the second and third years of the reign of Queen Victoria, entitled " An act to make better provisions for the assignment of ecclesiastical districts to churches or chapels augmented by the Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, and for other purposes." Again, by the 1 8th Victoria, 1855, better known by the name of "Lord Blandford's Act," the ecclesiastical district thus formed became a new and independent parish, free from all claims, rates, payments, or dues of any kind or degree to the mother church of St. Cuthbert, Carlisle. UPPERBY. Upperby township comprises an area of 449 acres. The population in 1801 was 119; in 1811, 228; in 1821, 340; in 1831, 393; in 1841,471; and in 1851, 551. The land here is generally leasehold, under the dean and chapter's manor of Botchergate. The land- owners are John Fawcett, Esq., William Lamb, Esq., Samuel Waldie, Esq., John Harrison, Esq., John Slater, Esq., the executors of .Jackson Pears, Esq., and several small proprietors. The soil is a rich loam on a clay and partly gravel subsoil. The Lancaster and Carlisle railway intersects the township. The village of Upperby is situated on the west side of the Petteril, two miles south-east of Carlisle, and con- sists of poor-built cottages, inhabited chiefly by weavers, with two or three good farm houses, and two inns. rPPERBY PAPJSH. 185 THE CHURCH. Upperby church, dedicated to St. .John, stands a little east of the village. It was erected by subscription in 1840, on a site given by John Fawcett, Esq., and was consecrated in 18-lG. The living is only partially endowed with £M per annum, assigned to it by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners in the year 1849, and the interest of .£695 ] 3s. 8d. reduced Banlv Annuities, in the hands of the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, with a small payment from the pewholders of two-thirds of the pews in the church, the remaining one-third being free sittings. The dean and chapter of Carlisle are patrons; incumbent, the Rev. William Cockett, M.A., who was instituted in the year 1846 ; and it is to his great and untiring exertions that the neighbour- hood is indebted for the formation of the ecclesiastical district, the obtaiumg of the small endowment possessed by the church, the purchase of two acres of glebe land, and the building thereupon in the year 1848 of a suitable and commodious parsonage, and the erection and formation of large and elegant national schools. Up to the year 1828 there was no school at Upperby. At that period several of the inhabitants solicited sub- scriptions, with which they built a small one, with two rooms over the same for a residence. The funds were inadequate for the completion of the work, and there was left a mortgage upon the building ; the interest of this sum was paid by the schoolmaster or schoolmistress, as such happened to be. In the year 1847 this debt was paid by the National Society, on condition that the rooms were conveyed by deed to the minister and church- wardens as trustees for the parochial schools. During the year 1 854, the schoolroom becoming too small for the increasing number of scholars, and the residences of the teachers being found inconvenient and prejudicial to health, the incumbent of the parish and the church- wardens resolved to build upon the village green a new school in two parts, one for the boys, and the other for the girls; and to add the room then used as a school to those immediately over it to form a permanent and suitable residence for the master. For this purpose a grant of £147 was obtained from the Committee of Privy Coun- cil on Education, another of £45 from the National Society ;■ and the late Miss Losh, of Woodside, left a legacy of £130. The cost of the erection of the school was £434 8s. 7d., the residue of which was made up fi-om smaller private subscriptions. The schools are under government inspection, and have ah-eady conferred great benefits upon the neighbour- hood. Here is a skinnery, the property of Mr. S. Waldie, and carried on by Mr. Brown. Joseph Robinson and i Co., of Carlisle, have a place here for the manufactory of plaster of Paris. BIACKWELL, HIGH. I The tomiship of High BlackweU contains 3,459 ' acres, and its rateable value is £1,565 10s. The num- I ber of its inhabitants m 1801 was 265 ; in 181 1, 253 ; ill 1821, 283; in 1831, 268; in 1841, 315; and in 1851, 370. The manor of BlackweU, or Blackball , formed anciently a parcel of Inglewood Forest, and was granted by Henry I. to Odard dc Logis, lord of Wigton, in whose family it contmued till the reign of Edward III., when Margaret de Wigton, heir'ess of this baronial house, gave it to Sir Robert Parvinge, the king's ser- jeant-at-law, as a recompense for the ability he displayed in defending her title to the barony of Wigton, which title had been called in question by the heir-at-law. Sir Robert de Ivirkbride, on the ground of her mother's incontinency. From the Charter Rolls of the 13th Edward III., we learn that Sir Robert Parvinge, who had attained the dignity of lord chancellor, and lord high treasurer, obtained a license to enclose his woods at this place in 1339. His representatives sold Black- j hall to Sir William Stapleton, who in his turn sold it ! to Lord Daere, from whom it subsequently passed to I the Earl of Sussex, by whose co-heiresses it was con- veyed, in 1716, to Sir Christopher Musgrave, the I ancestor of Sir George Musgrave, Bart., of Eden Hall, the present possessor of the manorial rights and pri- vileges. The landowners are Colonel Sowerby, Messrs. Joseph Robinson, AV. OsteU, Richard Standish, Joseph Scott, and others. The township is intersected by the Maryport and CarUsle railway, and possesses a strong clayey soil. The tithes were commuted in April, 1840, for £65 lis. 3d. There is a school near to BlackweU High village, and another at Stoneraise in this township, both of which are closed. Here are two stone quarries, worked by Mr. John Pearson, which yield white and red freestone of a good quality for building purposes and grindstones. The following hamlets are in this township : — High and Low Burnthwaite, consisting of a few fai-m houses and cottages, four miles south of Carlisle; Durdar, three miles south of Carlisle ; Ratten Raw, three and a half miles south of the same place; and Stoneraise. CHARITIES. Loicn/s Charities.— Thomas Lowry, by wiU dated November 22nd, 1779, bequeathed £200 to his execu- tors, to be placed out, and the interest of £100, to be 186 CUMBERLAND WARD. paid to the master of the school at Blackhall (if one should be built withia two years after his death), he teaching gratis seven or eight poor children belonging to Blackball quarter, if so many ; and if fewer, or none, to be nevertheless paid ; and the interest of the remain- ing £100 to be paid to the poor widows within the said quarter who should not get parochial relief. A school was built at Blackhall within the time appointed, and since that period the chanty has been distributed as directed. Pattmsoyi's Chariltj. — Thomas Pattinson, in 1785, left the interest of £'10 to the schoolmaster of Black- hall. (See Bowness parish). The sum of 7s. S+d. is paid to the schoolmaster of Blackball on account of this donation. This donation and the one preceding, are not paid to the master of the school at Durdar, but to another school in Blackwell township. Durdar School. — ]Mrs. Grace Graham, by will dated ]7th March, 1798, gave £100 in trust, the interest of which was to be applied to the schoolmaster of Durdar, for which he should teach gratis, in reading, writing, and accounts, not fewer than eight children, residing within the "division of Blackhall High." BLACKWELL, LOW. Low Blackwell township comprises an area of 941 acres. In 1801 the number of its inhabitants was 103; in 1811, 149; in 182], 124; in 1831, 150; in 1841, 181; and in 1851, 189. This township is included in the manor of Blackhall. The principal landowners are Sir George Musgrave, Bart ; the Misses Lowry, F. L. B. Dykes, Esq., Edward Rowlands, Esq., Mr. W. Martendale, Mrs. AVilson, and Mr. Jonathan S. Bell. The soil of the township is partly a heavy loam, with some good land near the river, and a portion of heavy wet land. The Mary port and Carlisle railway intersects the township. The village of Low Blackwell is two and a half miles south of Carlisle. Fleshes and Scugger Houses are hamlets in this township. BOTCHEREY. The township of Botcherby, or Botchardby, contains 495 acres, and its rateable value is £1,058. Its popu- lation in 1801 was 94; in 1811, 118; in 1821, 125; in 1831, 144; in 18ll, 125; and in 1851, 155. The soil here is generally a strong loam, on a sandy bottom. The principal proprietors are Major Sped- ding, John Norman, Esq., Mathews Hodgson, Esq., Rev. John Norman, Miss E. Lowry, and John Hodg- son, Esq. The village of Botcherby is pleasantly situated one mile east of Carlisle. On the north side of the village is a small school for children of both sexes, which will accommodate about fifty pupils; average attendance about forty. It is supported by the quarter-pence of the scholars. BRISCO. The population of this townsbip in 1801 was 224; in 1811, 300; in 1821, 308; in 1831, 303; in 1841, 303 ; and in 1851, 293. The area of the township is 1,904 statute acres, and its rateable value £2,193 2s. 1 Od. The soil is generally good, incumbent on a strong clay. The Lancaster and Carlisle railway runs through the township. Brisco is included in the manor of Botchergate, the rights and privileges of which are vested in the Eccle- siastical Commissioners, but about £3 a-year are paid to Sir Wastel Brisco, of Crofton Hall, whose ancestors held this place, and took their names from the township. The landowners are the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, James Losh, Esq., Messrs. Joseph SneU, William Lamb, Thomas Lowthian, Jonathan Fallowfield, General Martin, Dr. Hutchinson, Joseph Nixon, and Messrs. Howe and Backhouse. The village of Brisco occupies a pleasant and airy situation about three miles south of CarUsle. Woodbank is a hamlet in this township, where are the extensive iron works of Messrs. Cowan, Shed- don, and Co., who carry on the business of engineers, founders, and iron manufacturers. And at Quarry Gate is a red sandstone quarry. Brisco Hill and Newbiggin Hall are two neat man- sions in this township ; the latter appears to have been an occasional residence of the Prior of Carlisle, who fortified it against the incursions of the Scots ; its walls are about nine feet thick, and the whole of the first floor has a plain vaulted roof. Woodside, the seat and property of the Losh family, is a large handsome structure, surrounded by beautiful and well-wooded grounds. The Woodside estate has been long in the possession of the family of the present proprietor. CARI.ETON. The number of inhabitants in Carleton township in 1801 was 183; in 1811, 173; in 1621, 201; in 1831, 189; in 1841, 175; and in 1851, 188. The area is returned with that of English-street township, Carlisle; its rateable value is £1,011. This township is also in the manor of Botchergate. The principal landowners here are Messrs. Joseph Railton, David Nelson, William James, Richard Fergusson, Charles Rivaz, Miss Sewell, Thomas Little, Rev. John S. JIulcaster, Mrs. W.vnWICE PAPJf 1S7 Cooper, Mr. Hodgson, Mr. Calvert, John Lowthian, Esq., Samuel James, Esq., the Cumberland and West- moreland Asylum, John Kobinson, and the Ecclesias- tical Commissioners. The Cumberland and Westmore- land Lunatic Asylum is in this township. The village of Carleton is situated on the Penrith road, three miles south-by-east of Carlisle. Here is a beautiful willow tree, raised from a cutting taken from a tree which overhung the grave of Kapoleon at St. Helena. There are several neat houses in the village. Near to the Roman road is a farmstead called Scales- ceugh, upon the land attached to which Roman coins have been found. There is a flour-mill close to the river Petteril. CHAKITT. Pattinson's Charity. — Thomas Pattinson, by will dated 16tli March, 1785, left £50, the interest to be paid to the schoolmasters teaching school in the town- ships of Harraby, Carleton, and Brisco, share and share alike, if more than one. The interest of this money. £,1 18s. Gd., is now paid to a schoolmaster at Carleton, there being no school in Harraby or Brisco.' IIAERABY. Harraby contains an area of 601 acres. Its popu- lation in 1801 was 47; in 1811, 58; in 1821, 40; in 1831, 66; in 1841, 55; and in 1851, 82. The town- ship is included in the manor of Botchergate, and the landowners are IMessrs. George Blamire, William Hodgson, John Fawcett, the executors of Admiral Taylor, Mrs. Fairbairn, and Miss Lowry. The New- castle and CarUsle railway runs through the township. Here is a corn-mill. The village of Harraby is situated on the Penrith road, one and a half miles south-by-east of Carlisle. Han-aby Grange was formerly known as the manor of Henderbye, but it is now included in the same manor as the rest of the township, and is held under the Ecclesiastical Commissioners by leasehold tenure. Harraby Green is principally in this to\\Tiship. 1 See Bowness parish, p. 100. WARWICK The parish of Warwick is bounded on the north and east ' of Wetheral, and includes the townships of Agliouby and cipally of sand or loam. ■WARWICK. The area of this township is 1,280 acres, and its rateable value £2,373 7s. 7d. The population in 1801 was 241; in 1811, 214; in 1821, 257; in 1831, 266; in 1841, 225 ; and in 1851, 216. The manor of Warwick was given by Hubert de Valhbus aud Piobert his son to Odard, firet lord of Corkeby, or Corby, to be held of his barony of Gilsland. At the visitation made by Sir William Dugdale, in 1665, Thomas Warwick, Esq., certified a pedigree, in which this Odard is stated to be Odard de Logis, first baron of Wigton, but the pedigree does not agree mth that of the family of the lords of Wigton, hence we may reasonably conclude that there must have been another Odard, of whom aud of his descendants we have the following account : — Odakd, first lord of Corby anil of Warwick, hail issue Osbert and William, to the former of whom he gave Corbj, to the latter Warwick. Osbert, the elder son, dying without issue, both manors became the property of his brother William. William, with other children, Iind issue John and Robert ; Wai-- wick was given to John, the eldest, and Corby to Eobert. JoHX appeai-3 to have lived in the reif^ of Richard I. William de Warthwvke occurs in IVdi Henry III. (1232.3). He was knighted in lltV. year of the same reign (1259-60). KoBEET DE W.UITHWTKE is mentioned in 1301. PARISH. ly the river Eden, on the west and south by the parish Warwick. Its soil is rich and fertile, consisting prin- William de Waethwyke in temji. Edward II. JoHS DE Wabthwtke, Knt., son of W illiam, died without issue and was succeeded by bis nephew and heir, John de Warthwyke, sou of Edmund de Warthwick deceased. He lived temp. Edwai-d III. George de Warthwvke occurs in the reign of Eichard II. John de Wartdwyke in the same reign. John de Warthwyke temp. Edward IV. Lancelot Warwike in the reign of Henry VII. KicHARD Warwike is next mentioned. He, in 3.">th Henry VIII. (1043-4) held the manor and vill of Warwike of llie King, in capite, by knight's services and comage. He was succeeded by his son, Christopbeb Warwike, who married Frances, daughter of Sal- keld, of Corby. His son, Richard Warwike, married twice. His first wife was Frances, daughter of Salkeld, of Whitehall, by whom he had issue, Thomas, and a younger son, George, who died widiout issue. ' His second wife, whose name is not known, bore him a son, John Warwike, of Lockwait, near Hartley Castle, co. Westmorehmd. This Richard died about 1031. Thomas Warwick married a daughter of Gawin Bratbwaite, of Ambleside, and died in his father's lifetinife. Thomas Warwick, of Warwick, married Frances, daughter of John Skelton, Esq., of Armatbwaite, and had issue, John, who died unmarried; Thomas; Mary, mai-ried to Rowland Nichols, rector of A:kton ; and Caiherme. He died in 1C51. Thomas Warwick, aged 22 at the time of Dugdale's visitation, married Frances, daughter of John Dalston, Esq., of Acorn Bank, CO. Westmoreland, and bad issue, John- Warwick, who married Mary, daughter of Francis Howard, Esq., of Corby, and by her had i=sue. 188 CUMBERLAND ■ft'AIlD. Wakwick, Esq., who married Jane, daughter of ' Howard, Esq., of Corby, by Biu'bara, daughter of John, Viscount Lonsdale, who died without issue in I7"2, nud was succeeded by his only surviving sister and heir, Mrs. Anne Warwick, after wliose decease the estate became the property of Kalph Maddisou, Esq., of Gateshead, Newcastle-on-TTOe, in pursuance of tlie will of Francis Warwick, Esq. On the death of Mr. Maddison the property passed to his brother John, who dying without issue, it devolved on the next heir of tlie testator, Robert Bonner, Esq., son of Sarah Mad- dison (sister of Kalph and John just mentioned) by Thomas Bonner. This Thomas took the surname of Wai-wick in 1792. The present laudowiiei-s are the executors of the late William Parker, Esq., James Heald, Esq., and "William Eichardsou, Esq. The village of Warwick is pleasantly situated four miles east of Carlisle, on the west bank of the EJen, which is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of three arches. Near this bridge is an eminence, upon which are the remains of a breastwork, supposed to have been raised to guard the river, during the days of the moss- troopers. THE CHUHCH. The church, dedicated to St. Leonard, is an ancient stnicture, in the Norman style, the date of its erec- tion is very uncertain. It possesses an apsis, or semi- circular recess at the east end, a form comparatively rare in England. On the exterior, this semicircular termination of the chancel of the church has thirteen narrow niches, measuring ten feet eight inches high, and one foot five inches wide, reaching almost to the ground ; three of them have small windows inserted. This edifice is at present 70 feet long, but once extended twenty-one feet more to the west ; there being still at that end a good rounded arch, now filled up. The bene- fice was a rectory, and was given by Ranulph de Mes- chines to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, but was granted, after the dissolution of the religious houses, to the dean and chapter of Carlisle, who united the living to that of Wetheral, and have since continued to appoint a curate to the joint livings. There is here a substantial stone building, erected for a Sunday-school, by the late Thomas Parker, Esq., who endowed it at his death with £500. The late William Parker left £250 for the support of a day- school. The building is now used as a chapel by the Wesleyan body, and is attended by the Carlisle minis- ters and local preachers. Warwick Hall, erected in 1828, the seat of the Parker family, is an elegant structure, of red freestone, situated four miles east of Carhsle. The grounds are beautifully disposed, and neatly laid out. AGLIONET. Aglionby township comprises an area of 559 acres. Its population in 1801 was 92 ; in 1811, 73 ; in 1821, 91 ; in 1831, 107 ; in 1841, 137 ; and in 185] , 147. The manor of Aglionby was the ancient inheritance of the family of that name, who are said to have been settled here from the time of the Conquest. The last heir male of the family, Christopher Aglionbj', Esq., died in 1785. P. H. Howard, Esq. of Corby, claims the manorial rights of a portion of this township. The principal landowners are Messrs. James Tod- hunter, John Jackson, John Bond, John Bouch, Christopher T. Dawson, George Rayson, Joseph Bob- son, William Bobson, Messrs. Atkinson, Mrs. Euth Jackson, Joseph Hope, and John NLxon. WETHERAL PARISH. Tins parish is bounded on the north by Warwick, on the west by Upperby and St. jMary's, on the south by Wreay and Hesket, and on the east by Hayton and Cumwhitton. It includes the four townships of Great Corby and War- wick Bridge, Cumwhitton and Coathill, Scotby, and Wetheral. The soil here is in general fertile. In Scotby and Wetheral there is a mixture of clay and sand, suitable for any kind of grain ; in Coathill there is a strong loamy soil ; Cumwhitton is more sandy ; and in Great Corby and Warwick Bridge township the soil is a mixture of sand and loam, e.xcept part of the enclosed common, which is cold and wet. WETIIElt.U.. This township contains 4,458 acres, and its rateable value is £4,370 7s. 2d. The population in 1801 was 370; in 1811, 349; in 1821,451 ; in 1831, 007; in 1841, 586; and in 1851, 635. The Newcastle and Carlisle railway intersects the tonnship. The manor of Wetheral was granted by Banulph de Meschincs to the abbey of St. Mary, at York, in 1080, when the priory of Wetheral was founded, and con- tinued to be held by that house till the time of the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII., at which period it was granted to the dean and chapter of Carlisle, in whose possession it continued till 1650, when it was sold by the commissioners of Oliver Crom- well to Richard Banks, of Cockermouth : but on the restoration of the regal power the dean and chapter recovered their property. One of the customs of the manor seems to have been, that each of the tenants of V.-ETHERAL PARISH. 180 Wetheral shoulj carry the abbot's corn one day in autumn, find one reaper, plough one day for the abbot yearly, carry wood for the fishguard and mill, repair the wear and the mill, and grinding corn there, pay a thirteenth portion for muloture. The manorial rights are now vested in the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, in addition to whom Messrs. George Graham, William Eobinson, Thomas Wannop, Isaac Lawsou, George Elliot, John Nicolson, Joseph Slack, Dr. Graham, Rev. John Graham, Miss Collins, Mrs. Graham, Rev. J. French, and Miss Graham, are the principal land- owners. The village of Wetheral occupies a picturesque situa- tion on the west bank of the Eden, four and a half miles east south east of Carlisle, in the neighbourhood of a splendid bridge, on the Newcastle and Carlisle railway. TUE CHur.cn. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is a neat Gothic structure in the Early Englisli style, con- sisting of nave, aisles, chancel, tower, and gallery at west end, and calculated to seat about 600 people. The '■olumus of the nave are circular and octagonal. In the windows of the clerestory some portions of ancient stained glass may still be seen. In the first window on the right is a representation of the Blessed Virgin, with the Divine Infant, and two other figures, with the badges of some guild. The first window on the left contains tv.-o figures, and some heraldic devices. The east window is of three-lights, and contains some small portions of painted glass, as does also the small window on the right of the chancel. Round the arch of the door leading to the vestry, is an inscription to the following effect : — oea peg anijia liicHAUDi WEDDEEHALL. Over a window iu the vestry is this inscription : — ora rno anima willi'mi tmorxton, ABBATis. On the north side of the chancel is an altar tomb sculptured with armorial bearings, on which are the mutilated effigies of Sir Puchard Salkeld and his j lady, the possessors of Corby Castle, in the reign of | Henry VII. On the opposite wall is a neat marble tablet to the memory of the Misses Waugh, of Carhsle, granddaughters of iJishop Waugh. The Howard mauso- leum is entered from the chancel, on the north side of which it is situated. It was erected in 1791, by Hemy | Howard, Esq., on the foundation of his family place of \ sepulture, and here are interred the mortal remains of Sir Francis Howard, second son of Lord William Howard, of Naworth, and all his successors and their irives, down to the late Henry Howard, Esq. The mausoleum contains an east window of four lights, and has a fine groined and vaulted ceiling springing from !il a slender pillars. It contains several monuments, among which we may mention a cast by Westmacott, to the memory of Adeliza IMaria Howard, the wife of Henry Petre, Esq. ; behind which there is a mural tablet to the memory of Philip, second son of Philip and Anne Howard of Corby. The ne.^t arch contains two more mural monuments ; and at the end of the mausoleum there is a fine group in marble, to the memory of the Hon. JMaria, daughter of Andrew Lord Archer, first wife of the late Henry Howard, whom it represents supported by Religion, and sustaining in her arms the infant to which she has just given birth. This exquisite work of art, executed by the celebrated sculptor, NoUekens, excites the admiration of every visitor, and has been declared by competent judges to be the finest piece of modern sculpture in England. There is also a splendid monumental brass, erected in 1856 to the memory of the late Henry Howard, and Catherine Mary his wife, a daughter of Sir Richard Neave, Bart. As stated in our account of Warwick parish, this living and that of Warwick are united in the same patronage and incumbency. The tithes were com- muted in 1844, for a yearly rent-charge of £1,002, and the united curacy is worth about £150 per annum, arising out of land piurchased with £1,300 parliamen- tary grant, £52 given out of the tithes, and £48 given by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. The parish register commences in 1074. iNcroiBESTS. — George Gillbanlcs, 17i2; EJinuncl Stanger, 178S ; Charles Yansittart, 1840 ; Joseph L. Hodgson, 1S4S. The parsonage is a modern red stone building, in the vicinity of the church : the original building was erected in 1714, by the Rev. Edward Toug, the patrons and impropriator contributing only £25 towards its erection. The present building was commenced by the Rev. Charles Vansittart in 1847, and completed by the present incumbent, the Rev. J. L. Hodgson, in 1848-9, at an expense of about £800, towards which the patrons and impropriator contributed nothing ! The school is a handsome stone structure, built by subscriptions obtained by the incumbent, and by the help of a bazaar held in Carlisle in 1854, at a cost of £300. It will accommodate about seventy pupils, and has an average attendance of fiftv. CIIAr.ITY. S(.7i 00?.— Thomas Graham, who died in 1700, loft £00 for educating poor children of Wetheral township. The interest of the sum is given to the schoolmaster, for which he insti-ucts three or four poor children. A little to the south of the village stands a solitary tower, which is all that now remains of the ancient 190 CUMBERLAND W'Ar.D. priory of Wetheral ; the other portions beiiig demolished many years ago, by the dean and chapter of Carlisle, who erected a prebendal house with the materials, although the late Thomas Howard, Esq., generously offered sufti- cient compensation if they would allow the venerable ruins to remain as they stood. "The priory of "Wetheral," says Dr. Todd, " was first founded at the instance of Stephen, first abbot of St. Mary's, at York, the first yeai- of William Eufus, anno Domini 1080, by the Earl Randolph do Meschines, who gave his manor of Wetheral to this Stephen, with other lands thereunto belonging, in pure alms to the said abbey of York. Stephen dedicated the same to God, under the invocation of St. Mary and St. Constantino, and gave all such things as the said abbey held iu Westmoreland and Cumberland to the said cell or priory of Wetheral, as the fishing iu the Eden, and the mill there ; the two churches of St. Lawrence and St. Michael in Appleby, all of the gift , \siiich grant was couHrnied by Simou de Morvilk. W .....i.u ,;. (....„lui (i.e. of Little Croglin) gave two ox-gangs and two acres of land at Croglin, and also his bond- men, Ralph and his son ; and also Alan and his wife Alice, with all their families and chattels— confirmed by Robert de Vallibus. Alex- ander de Creuquer gave part of Kirkandrews wood, with half the nlill, and pasturage throughout the fields and woods of Culgaith ; Alexan- der, son of Swain, gave the other half of the mill ; ond both the grants were confirmed by David, king of Scotland. Uchtred, son of Lyulph, gave half a carucate of land at Cuniwhintmi, confirmed by William de Heris, witli common of pasture ; Eudo de Carlisle gave the dead wood and liberty of cutting oaks which were dry in the cropping at tlie WETHERAL PARISH. 101 In the compromise of a dispute between the bishop of the diocese and the abbot of St. Mary's, it was deter- mined that the abbot should present the prior, and the bisliop should institute, and the abbot should have the guardianship of the house upon a vacancj% upon con- dition that the abbot and convent should make over to the bishop and his successors two marks and a half-yearly, which was payable to them out of the church of Denton. In the year 1539 Ealph Hartley, then prior, surrendered this house to Henry YIII. It was rated, 26th Henry VIII., at £117 lis. lOd. according to Dugda'e, or £128 5s. 3d. according to Speed, and was granted in the 33rd yeai- of the reign of the same king to the dean and chapter of Carlisle. The possessions were ample, and consisted of all the site of the priory or cell of Wetheral, with the church- steeple, church-yard, and all other lands and pos- sessions in and about the same ; and also the manor of Wetheral, and sundry parcels of land there. St. Anthony's Chapel, with two enclosures, the water-miU and the fishery at the bay of Wetheral ; and also all those manors, messuages, lands, and tenements, iu the several same place, confirmed by Robert de Leversdale; Adam, son of Roger de Carlisle, gave 8s. yearly rent out of certain lands tbere, and also the heath where his shields stood, under a rent of 6d. to him and to his heirs, which rent, Eudo, his grandson (son of WilUam), changed to a rose on midsummer-day ; John, son of Game], verderer of Cumivhinton, gave four roods of land aud a toft there. Adam ae Cumrew, son of William de Eavenwick, gave two oxgangs of land at Cumrew, with pasture for sixty sheep, eight cows, and four oxen ; and also gave Roger, son of U cbired, with all his goods and chattels. Robert de Buet gave the church of Denton with the glebe land there- unto belonging, and eight acres more of his own— this grant was equally between the priories of Wetheral and Lanercost. Uchtred, sou of Lyulph, gave two bovates of land at Easton. Solomon de Farlam gave sixteen acres of land in several places witliin the territories of Farlam ; two acres more in the field called Eutliwait, were given by Richard, son of Bernard de Farlam. Robert de Vans confirmed to them all the lands that had been given to tliem in Gilsiand. Gervas de Lascells gave twenty-one acres aud one rood of laud, in Hedresford, with pasture for 300 wethers, three hundred ewes, nine oxen, and four horses, and the use of his mUl at Levingtou, mulctre free. John de Ermine, son of WilUam, gave two oxgangs of laud at Kaberth, to which Henry de Ulverlhwaite added tLe meadow of Smallwaths, lying between Kaberth and Croglin. Ralph de Hoff, for the healih of the soul of his lord Hugh Morville, gave certain lands in Huddlescough, iu the parish of ffirkoswald. William, son of Gilbert, gave a loft at Kirkbythore. Maurice de Man gave license to erect a salt-pan on Man island, with the like conveniences as had been formerly given to the monks of St. Bees. Eaniilph de Mes- chines gave two parts of the tithes of his demesne at Meabum ; and John, son of Walter de Ravensby, gave a small pai-cel of ground to build on, in King's Meabmii. Gervase de Melmerby gave one osgang iu the town- fields of Melmerby, and one acre aud a half in anotlier part of the territories ; and Adam de Mora gave two oxgangs there. Ketel, son of Eldred, gave the church of Morland and three carucates of land Uaere. Hemy de Legat (iu the time of Walter, bishop of Carlisle), gave all his lands at Morelaud, reserving a yearly rent of half a pound of cummm payable to the bishop, at Carlisle Mi; and Peter de Legat, (brother of the said Heniy) gave other lands. Walter, porter of the priory, gave with his body two oxgangs of land witli a toft and croft at Newby ; and Anselm de Newby gave parishes or hamlets of Corby, Cumwhintou, Botcherby, Morehouse, Holmehouse, Frodelcrooke, Penreithcottys, Bridgend, Ci-yngledyke, Ainstable, Armathwaite, Brod- wall in Gilsiand, Xewby, Farlam, Kaybridge, Gallow- field, Ruke, Skallmelock, St. Mary's and St. Cuthbert's, Carlisle ; also, the rectories and advowsons of the churches of Morland, St. Michael's, and St. Lawrence's, in Appleby; also the tithes of corn and hay iu the vills of Bolton, Mykelstry, Relaud,Thorneby,Thurneby Grainge, Morland, Sleagill, Xewby in the Stones, King's Meabum, Little Strickland, Skytergate, Laugton, Crackeuthorpe, Hilton, Bondgate, Moreton, Drybeck, Fallowfield, Bar- wis, Eutter, aud Coleby ; and a pension of los. out of the rectory of Great Salkeld. By another charter of the same king, the advowsons of the churches of Wetheral and Warwick, and the chapels of St. Anthony and St. Severn thereto annexed, were granted to the dean and chapter. At a short distance from the ruins of the priory, further up the vale, are the caves of St. Constantine, or Wetheral Safeguards. They are three in num- ber, deeply e.xcavated in the face of the perpendicular fifteen and a half acres (being two oxgangs) in the same viU— con- firmed by others of his name and family. Adam, sou of Alan, gave half a ploughland in Ormesby field, at Ormesby ; and Adam, son of Robert, gave another half, called Muiaud, to which Eudo de Carlisle added other lauds. Robert de Robertby gave ilu-ee acres and a half iu the town fields of Ousby, with right of common and other appur- tenances, saving the mulcture of the 20th dish due to the mUl there. Raimlph de Jfeschines gave two parts of the tithes of the demesne lands at Salkeld ; and Waltheof, son of Gospatric, aftenvaids gave the whole. David, king of Scots, gave one mark of silver yearly out of the rent of his mill at Scolby, and also the tidies of the nil of Scolby; and Uchtred, son of Lyulph, afterwards gave the mill. David, earl of Dunbar, gave the town and chm-ch of Karkarevil in Scotland. Gilbert de SleygUl gave oue messuage with the appurtenances at Sleagill. Uchtred, sou of Lyulph, gave the whole tithes of the demesne lauds at Sourby, and half a carucate of land. Ahce and Mabel, sis- ters and heirs of E. Beauchamp, gave right of common at Stafible, and other privileges. Walter de Strickland, KnL, gave four acres in Strickland fields at Stricldand, whose grant was couiinned by Su- William de Stiickland. John, son of WilUam de Thrymby, gave four perches and a half of land at Thrunby. WilUam, son of Odard, gave three oxgangs ot land, aud the tithe of his mill at Warwick ; John, son of the said WilUam, gave a toft and croft; Alaa de Lang- wayt gave all his lands there, and fireboot in his woods at Laugwayt, with pasture for theu' horses or other cattle in carrying wood, Ume, or stone; aud Henry Birkenheved and Beatrice his wife gave three acres m the Holme, near the bridge. Besides the grants at Wetheral above specified, Robert, son of WilUam, son of Odard, remitted the eighth fish, which he and his ancestors had out of the coup of the monks; aud John Spendlowe and Mai-gai-et his wife, gave a house aud four acres of land, and granted a lease for sixty years to the prior aud convent of an oxgang more, m consideration of tlu-ee m.-u-ks of silver given them in their great need ; which said Margaret and her children soon after quitted claim for ever to the said oxgang. Ketel, son of Eldred, gave the church of Workington. John de Vetenponl, for the good of his soul and of the soul of Sibil his mfe, gave twenty- cartloads of firewood yeai-lv, out of his forest of WynfeU. The whole of these grants were confirmed by the kings, bishops, and popes, and continued to be possessed by the convent tiU the period of the Dissolution. 192 CUMBERLAND WAED. rock, forty feet above the water of the Eden, and are said to have been formed by Constantine III., King of Scots, who for a thne retired here, and afterwards became a monk, and died at Meh-os Abbey. They are protected by a breastwork of masonrj-, in which is a fireplace and three small lights. Subsequently they acquired the name of " safeguard, " from the neighbouring monks and other inhabitants, who frequently fled to them as a place of refuge, during the forays of ^ the inoss-troopers. These cells are divided into three apartments, each of v.hich has a separate window. A stratum of rock, about eight feet below the floor of the cells, serves as a foundation for the wall which is built before them, and which makes the gallery, and reaches a little above, with the door at one end through which iu former times the cells are supposed to have been approached by a ladder or plank drawn up after them by the refugees for greater securit}-. It is even now diflScult of access, though a flight of steps has been made to communicate with the narrow path beneath leading to the cells. The follow- ing inscription is still ou the same rock, a little higher up the river : — ji.-vximvs sckipsit . . . lexx. y. v. cosd. C.4SS1VS. Opposite to the cells, ou the Corby side of the river, is a full-length figure, carved in stone, of St. Constantine, standing on a pedestal, and looking to- wai-ds the caves. This figure was placed here by Mr. Howard, in 1843. A little up the river stands Wetheral Tower, built in the Gothic style, with turrets, by the late Misses Waugh, of Carlisle, as a summer house. GREAT COHBY AND WARWICK BEIDGE. Great Corby and Warwick Bridge form a jomt town- ship, comprising an area of 2,747 acres, and its rateable value is £4,250 Cs. 4d. The population of Great Corby in 1801 was 344 ; in 1811, 326 ; in 1821, 803 ; iu 1831, inclusive of Warwick Bridge, 1,285 ; in 1841, 31G; and in 1851, 297. The manor of Corby, on the east side of the Eden, was granted by Ilenry II. to Hubert de Vaux, who g.ive it to Odard, whose posterity assumed the name of De Corby, or Corby. Odard Avas succeeded by his son Osbert, who, dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother William. The latter had issue by his wife Os- winx two sons, John and Robert. John, the elder, seated himself at Warwick, and Piobert, the younger, at Corby. After Robert, Adam de Corby occurs, as, also, a William de Corby, son of Roger and Osanna his wife, who granted to Wetheral priory the dead wood in the wood of Corby, in the reign of Edward I. la the same reign it came into the family of Richmond, who conveyed it to An- drew de Hcrcla, Earl of Carlisle. After his attainder it was granted in 1335, to Richard Salkeld, " for his good services in taking Andrew de Hercla, earl of Carlisle, prisoner."^ His descendant, of the same name, who died in the reign of Henry VII., left two daughters, co-heir- esses, one married to Salkeld of Whitehall, and the other to one of the Blenkinsop family. The imme- diate descendants of these famihes sold their moieties of Corby to Lord WilHam Howard; Blenkinsop in 1G06, Salkeld in 1624. Lord AYilliam gave Corby to his second son. Sir Francis, the immediate ancestor of Philip Henry Howard, the present proprietor. The principal landowners are Philip Henry Howard, Esq., Peter Dixon, Esq., Mr. Bowman, Messrs. Jeremiah Lawson, the trustees of the late J. E. Hall, Robert Peascod, George Hodgson, George Howe, Thomas Wanuop, and Fergus Watson. The village of Corby is pleasantly situated, on the east side of the Eden, about five miles eastward of Carlisle. Here is a school which was endowed in 1720 with twenty-five acres of land, now let ioT Mil 2s. Gd. a-year, besides which the master has a house and garden, the former being erected by the trustees in 1845. The late Henry Howard Esq., endowed this school with two i:LO0 shares in the Newcastle and Carlisle Railway, now yislding about five per cent ; so that the endow- ment of the school at present amounts to about £38 a year, for which the children are instructed at a small quarterage. Corby Castle, the beautiful scat of Philip Henry Howard, Esq., is situated on the summit of a precipitous cliff, overhanging the river Eden, near the village of Great Corby, and is " tosom'd high Iu nature's sylvan majesty." The present elegant mansion occupies the site of a more ancient castle, and, in part, consists of the very walls of a large square tower of one of the border fortresses. The surrounding country is very beautiful. The lofty hills which descend precipitately on every side, clothed with stately trees, the thousand beauties which here adorn the Eden, where, amidst the hanging shades and groves of oak, bold rocks put forth their shades of rugged fronts and lift up their prominent brows with imposing dignity, and where every turn and avenue affords a rich sylvan scene, are the delight and admira- tion of every visitor to this part of the kingdom. The beautiful scenery of the grounds has been most admi- rably kept up by plantations and other improvements, while fresh charms have been elicited by the taste and 1 Kot. pat. 0 Edwai-J III. port 2. 18. Chron. Lauercost. WETHEP.AL PARISH. 193 judgment of its successive proprietors, who have greatly enriched the beauties of this dehghtful spot, where, at almost every step the visitor is struck with some new object, particularly in the walks ou the margin of the Eden, which retain as much of their originality as could be preserved, and are shaded with lofty trees, where a number of caves, &c., have been excavated with consider- able labour and great taste. The walks e.^tend for a consideral)le distance along the Eden, and afford a great variety of rich prospects and pleasing solitudes. To the north-west of the house a terrace is stretched along the summit of the chff, overlooking the thick groves which adorn the declivities aud brink of the river, and com- manding a fine view of its course. Among the sylvan ornaments of this romantic spot are many venerable oaks, with a variety of foreign trees and shrubs. The public are admitted to the grounds during the sum- mer months, aud strangers at all times. ^ Part of the old mansion was taken down in 1812, and a fine Doric front, with a superb suit of rooms, rebuilt by the late Henry Howard, Esq. The parapet in two of the fronts, has in the centre a pedestal surmounted by a lioii statant guardant, the crest of the Howards. All the old walls of the castle are upwards of si.^ feet thick. The apartments are elegantly furnished, and contain many fine paintings and relics of bygone days ; amongst the former, we may enumerate the following: — St. Catharine, with two angels, by Luini (one of the most admired paintings at the recent Manchester exhibition) ; St. Agnes, by Carlo Dolce, which was also there ; Ma- donna and Child, by Sasso Ferrate ; Holy Family, with St. Catharine, by Corregio ; Portrait of Canova ; curious 1 We subjoin the following extract from a letter written by Sir ■Walter Scott to Mr. Morritt, of Eokeby, 2nd October, 1815, in which Sir Walter refers to Corby: — " We visited Corby Castle on our reiiirn from Scotland, which remains, in point of situation, as beautiful as when its walks were celebrated by David Hume in the only rhymes he was ever known to be guilty of. Here tliey lU'e, from a pane of glass in an inn at Carlisle : — ' Here chicks in eggs for breakfast sprawl, Here godless boys God's glories squall. Here heads of Scotchmeu guard the wall; But Corbie's walks atone for all.' Would it not be a good quiz to advertise the poetical worts of David Hume, with notes, critical, historical, aud so forth ; with an historical enquiry into tlie use of eggs for breakfast — a physical discussion ou theu: being addled— a history of the English church music, and of the choir of Carlisle in particular— a full account of the affair of 1745, with the trials, last speeches, aud so forth, of the poor Plaids who were lashed up at Carlisle— and lastly, a full aud particular description of Corby, with' the genealogy of every family who ever possessed it. T think, eveu without more than the usual waste of margin, the poems of David would make a decent twelve shilling touch. I shall think about it when I have exhausted mine own century of inventions." The pane of glass on which the lines alluded to above are written, is now in possession of Mr. Bell, solicitor, of Brampton. Portrait of a Spanish. Princess, unkno\vn ; Emperor Charles V. and his Empress Isabella of Portugal, by Titian; David triumphing over Goliah, by Kicholas Poussin ; Tliomas, second Dulve of Norfolk, the victor at Flodden Field, by Holbein ; Lady Anne Vere, wife of Henry, Earl of Surrey, the accomplished poet ; Thomas, the fourth Duke, his son, in miniature, by I Sir Antonio More ; PhUip Howard, author of Theory of the Earth and other v,orks, by Clarke ; Ann, wife of Philip Howard, by Gainsborough ; another by Piamsay ; Henry Plowavd, the late possessor of Corby, by Hoppuer ; Catherine JMary, daughter of Sir Piichard Neave, the wife of the late Mr. Howard, by Hoppner ; Philip Henry Howard, the present possessor of Corby, and his sister Catherine, when children, by Northcote ; Lady Emma Agnes Petre and Miss Adela Howard, by Jack- son ; Lady Petre and her sister Adela, by Enders ; Lady Petre's eldest son and daughter, copied by her ladyship from Hurlston's ; Passage at Isella on the Simplon, by the Hon. Mrs. Philip Stourton; a full-length portrait of Lord William Howard when about sixty years of age ; Sir Francis Howard, the second son of Sir William, to whom he gave Corby ; Colonel Thomas Howard, second son of Sir Francis ; William Howard, of Corby ; Sir Francis Howard, and his wife Jane Dalston, of Acora Bank; Thomas Howard his son, and Barbara Mus- grave his wife ; Charles, Duke of Norfolk, by Hoppner; Charles II., given at the Restoration by himself; James II. as High Admiral ; James, son of the above, and Prince Charles Edward aud his sister. There are also portraits of Sir Piichard and Lady Neave ; of Henry Howard, by Clark; and of a lady of the House of Colonna, by Maria de Tiori. The ornaments, relics, &c., consist of the Grace Cup of St. Thomas a Becket, archbishop of Canterbury, bequeathed by will by the high admiral. Sir Edward Howard, to Henry VIII. 's queen, Catherine of Arragon, who, dying first, it came by descent to Bernard, Duke of Norfolk, who gave it to the late Henry Howard — it is of ivory, mounted in silver gilt, and set with precious stones ; the cele- brated group of the Lion and Horse, in bronze, inscribed Anioxio Sossixo Floeenxini opus; a very curious Cup, formed of a NautUus Shell, mounted in silver, aud set with stones and pearls of very ancient workmanship, certainly as old as Edward III.'s time ; a massive gold Rosary and Cross, said to have been worn by Mary, Queea of Scots, when brought to the scaffold, and bequeathed by her, through Melville, to the Earl of Arundel ; a square Tablet, dug out of the ruins of Hyde Abbey, near Win- chester, inscribed Alfi:edcs Rkx, dccclxx.-^i ; and the Claymore of Major MacDonald, the Fergus Maclvor of Waverley. There is also a Roman Altar, which was 19i CUMBEKLAND WARD. found at Burdoswald, iind bears the following decayed inscription : PRO SALVTE D. N. MAXIAN.T3 FOUT. IMP. CAES SI. AVEEL. . . . It appears to have beea more perfect when it was seen by Horsley, ^Ybo read it thus, " Pro Salute Domini Nostri Maximi ac fortissimi Imperatoris Caesaris Marci Aurehi [ilaximiani] .... cedificant," and suggests the words which filled the hiatus to have been " templum erectum a solo." gofcrarb of forbn.' This is a distinguished branch of the illustrious house of Xorfulk. SiK Francis Howaed, Knt. of Corby Castle, Cumberland, bom 20th August, 1588, second son of Lord William Howard, " Belted Will," (second son of Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk) by Elizabeth his wife, sister and coheir of George, Lord Dacre, of Gilsland, was next brother of Sir Philip Howard, ancestor of the Earls of CarUsle. He was colonel in the service of Charles I. and in the royal cause raised a regiment of horse, and sold two estates (Newsham, Co. Durham, and Bereton near York) for its support. He married first Margaret, daughter of John Preston, Esq., of the manor of Furness, of Lancaster, and by her (who died in 1025) had issue, I. Thomas, colonel of his father's regt., who fell at Atherton Moor, in 164:). I. Elizabeth, married to Edward Standish, Esq., of Staudish, CO. Lancaster. Sir Francis married, secondly, Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Widdrington, Knt., of Widdrington Castle, co. Northumberland, by Mary his wife, daughter of Sir Richard Curwen, Knt, and by her had issue, I. Frascis his hen-, ii. Willi.vm. I. Mai-garet, mairied to Thomas Haggerston, Esq., of Hag- gerstou. II. Alethift, died unmarried; believed to have been a nun at Antwerp. m. Catherine, died unmarried. IV. Anne, died unmarried in 1083. Sir Francis died 11th April, 1059, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Feancis Howaed Esq., of Corby Castle, born aoth June, 1035, captain in the army, and governor of the city of Cai'Usle ; who married first Ann, daughter of William Gerard, Esq., of Bi7n, and had by her (who died in 1079), Elizabeth, married first to William Errington, Esq., of Walwick Grange ; and secondly, to Michael Ann, Esq., of Bramanbiggin ; and Mary married to Francis Warwick, Esq., of Warwick, county of Cumberland. ' This family is descended in a direct line from King Edward I., being entitled to quarter the Plantagenet arms. The subjoined pedigree clearly shows the descent from Edward I. to Lord William Howard, from whom to Philip H. Uowaed, Esij., the present owner of Corby, the lineage is given in the text. Margaret, dan. of Philip III. = Edward I. King of Rugland. = Eleanor, dan. of Fei-dinand, France, ri. in 1317. Thomas de Brotherton, Earl of Kor-= Alice, folk, and Marshal of England, d. of I in 1338^^ c Eoger Halys, Knt. Thomas Mowbray. Earl of Notting-=^ ham, Dolce of Norfolk, and Earl Marshal of England, K.G., d. in I, dan. of Richard Fitzalan. and sister and coheir of Thomas Fitzalan, Earl of Ainindel. Margaret, dan. of Thomas, and=Sir Robert Howard, Knt., eldestson cousin of John, Buke of Norfolk. I of Sir John Howard, Kut., by Alice, his wife, dau. and hiiir of Sir William Tarding, of Tardiug, Sir John Howard, K.G , created=Katherine, dau. of William, Lord Duke of Norfolk in Ub3, and slain Molines, ri. in 1452. at Eoswortb Field. rhomas Howard, Earl of Surrey,=Elizabeth. dau. and heir of Sir created Duke of Norfolk, and Earl I Frederick Tilney, Knt., of Ash- Marshal, 1 Feb., 1514, K.G., d. 21 well Thorpe, co. Norfolk, and May, 1524. widow of Sir Edward Bourchicr, K.B., sou of Lord Beruers. I Kiogof Castile, (f. Ling of=pEDWaBD II,, ICing of England. Edward III., King of England, Founder of the Most Noble Order of the T Eleanor, eldest dau. and co-heir of~Thomas Plantagenet, of Woodstock, Hurophrev de Bohun, Earl of Earl of Buckingliam, Duke of Hertford, &c., Constable of Eng- Gloucester, K.G.,d. in 13D9. land, <;. in 1399. | Edmund Stafford, Earl of Stafford,=Anne, dau. and co-heir of Thomas, K.G. Duke of Gloucester. - , ille. Earl of Westmoreland, li.G. Catherine, dau. of Richard Widville,^ 1 ' Eari Rivers, K.G., and sistor to st: Elizabeth, Queen of Edwau lleanor, dan. of Henry of Northumberland. Eleanor, dan. of Henry Percy, Earl==Edward, Dnke of Bnckingham, -'"-"■"'—'--'' K.G., beheaded on Tower llill, I 1521. Thomas Howard, Duke of Noi-folk, Bail Marshal, K.C^ElIzabetb, dau. of Edward, Duke of lluckingnam, second I the lifotime=Frances, dau. of John Vere, Earl of Oxford. Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, K.G., beheaded lT,7i. Lord William Howard, of Naworth Castle, Co. Cumberland, ^=Elizabeth, dau. of Thonia.^, and sister and co-hoir of George q., of Carlisle, who has a country residence here. The school, which is under government inspection, is carried on at the sole expense of Jlr. Dixon. It is conducted by a certificated master, with an assistant mistress, and is attended by about seventy children. There will probably be a pupil- teacher in the course of the present year (1858). Blencogo Hall, formerly the residence of the Thom- linsons, uow a farmhouse, is the property of Mrs. George Reay. There is a good residence here belonging to George Dixon, Esq., above-mentioned ; it was erected by the Rev. Jonathan Boucher, whose daughter is now Mrs. Dixon. The Rev. Jonathan Boucher, a divine, a political wTiter, a general scholar, an English philologist of the last century, and the writer of the best portions of Hutchinson's Hi-story of Cumberland, was a native of Blencogo, being born here in 1737. He died at Epsom in 1804. A biographical notice of him will be found in the English Cyclopaadia, vol. i., p. S.Jl. DUNDIIAW. Dundraw township contains 2,883 statute acres, and its rateable value is i:2,54'2 5s. 6d. In 1801 it con- tained 198 inhabitants; in 1811, 236 ; in 1821, 316 ; in 1831, 337 ; in 1841, 329 ; and in 1851, 332. The soil in this township is a deep strong loam, in a high state of cultivation. Dundraw has been surveyed, and the map deposited with the clergyman of the parish. As we have seen, when spealdug of Blencogo, Dun- draw manor was given by Waltheof to Odai'd de Logis, who in his turn gave it to Gilbert his son, who, assu- ming the local name, styled himself Gilbert de Dundraw. This Gilbert was succeeded by his son, also of the same name ; and after him, according to Denton, there was a Simon de Dundraw, who lived m 1232 or 1233 ; but we have no evidence that the latter held the manor, for the four daughters and co-heirs of the second Gilbert de Dundraw inherited his lands iu Dundraw, Crofton, Thackthwaite, and Distington. These daughters were Ciceley, the wife of Jordan Clopell, who gave her part by fine to WUliam Cuudall, iu whose right succeeded Ptalph Cundall ; Matilda, the wife of William Multon, who gave her part of Distington to Thomas, son of Lambert de Multon, lord of Egremont, and her part of Thackthwaite to Thomas Lucy, the son of Alice and of Alan ]\Iulton ; Isold, the wife of Adam de Tin- mouth, who sold her part of Thackthwaite to Thomas Lucy, and of Distington to Thomas, son of Lambert de Multon ; and Ada, the wife of Stephen de Crofton, whose part descended by the Croftons till the time of Henry IV., when it came to the Briscos, who still enjoy the same in Dundraw and Crofton ; and she gave her part in Distington to Thomas Moresby and Mar- garet his wife and to the heirs of Thomas ; and her part of Thackthwaite to Margaret, sister of Thomas Lucy, and wife of Thomas Stanley. Iu 1543, Robert Lamplugh held a moiety of the town 'of Dundraw of the king as of his manor of Wigton, by knights' ser- vice, rendering for the same Os. 8d. coruage, lOd. sea- wake, puture of the Serjeants, witnessman, and suit of court from three weeks to three weeks ; and Robert Brisco held the other half by like services. In April, 1578, " John Brisco, Francis Lamplugh, and Anthony Barwis, Esqs., held the town and manor of Dundraw, saving certain of the lord's laud there, and cei-tain lands holden there by William Osmotherley and John Blennerhasset, as after appeareth, by knights" service, coruage, seawake, puture, suit of court, rendering per annum for coruage 6s. 8d., seawake 6d. ut supra. William Osmotheriey holdeth a tenement there called Whayrigg Hall, by knights' service, the part of a knights fee, homage, fealty, and suit of court, and rendereth per annum. John Blennerhasset holdeth a hamlet there called Kell Sike, sometime the land of WilUam Mai-tmdale, by knights' service, homage, fealty, suit of court, seawake, and witnessman, and renders per annum two geese and 3d." The same MS. further informs us that " the tenants of the town of Dundraw pay yearly to the lord for comage, 13s. 4d., seawake, 2s., and tumsilver, 7s. 6d. ; in toto per annum 22s. lOd." According to the regis- ter of the abbey of Holme Cultram, quoted by 216 ALLERDALE - BET.OW - DEUWENT WARD. Nicolson and Burn, in their account of this manor, Roger de Lyndeby gave with his body seven acres of arable land in ths territory of Dundiaw to the abbey of Holme Cultrum, under the yearly rent of 2s. 4d. to the lord of Dundiaw for all services. Dundraw and the two neighbouring hamlets of Wheyrigg and Moor-row are now the property of Sir Wastcl Brisco, Bart. When this township was enclosed by act of parliament in 1813, the Earl of Egremont claimed the royalties of this manor as parcel of his barony of Wigton. The prin- cipal landowners are Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; Messrs. John Barnes, John Watson, Rev. Thomas Dand, Wil- liam Lightfoot. John Jefferson, John Barnes, John Tim- peron, John Wood, William Ross, William Messenger, Joseph Nelson, Thomas Messenger, George Rigg, George Wilkinson, John Colliuson ; Mrs. Ross, Mrs. Ritson, Mrs. Wood, and the Misses Pearson. The village of Dundraw is situated about three miles west of Wigton. Besides Dundraw, the township com- prises the hamlets of Kelswick, or Kelsick, formerly Kelsyke, four miles west-by-north ; Moor-row, three miles west ; Wayrigg, or Wheyrigg, four mUes west ; and Waverbridge, two miles west of Wigton. Sir Was- tel Brisco, Bart., holds^his manor courts at Wayrigg. LANGRIGG AND MEALRIGG. The area of this township is returned with that of Bromfield ; its rateable value is £1,951 4s. S^d. The population in 1801 was 198; in 1811, 913; in 1821, 194: in 1831, 269; in 1841,262; and in 1851, 281. The township was enclosed by the act for enclosing Aspatria Common, 52 George III. The manor of Langrigg, which was anciently de- mesne of Allerdale, was given by Waltheof, lord of the barony, to Dolphin, son of Aylward, with Applethwaite and Brigham, whose posterity possessed it for some descents, but the family became extinct in the time of Henry III. It was afterwards held by a family bearing the local name. In 1281, Agnes, wife of Gilbert de Langrigg, demanded against John Crookdake, twenty-five acres of land, fifteen acres of meadow, and 2s. 5d. rent there ; and against Thomas de Langrigg, thirty acres of land and fourteen acres of meadow. From the registers of the abbey of Holme Cultram, we find Agnes, wife of Ralph de Osmunderley, and Alice, wife of Thomas de Laithes, daughters and heirs of Thomas de Langrigg. In the year 1305, John de Bromfield and Thomas de Lowther held lands in Langrigg, rendering for the same Cs. 8d. cornage, and 7d. seawake, being of the yearly value of £5. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the Porters were possessed of the manor, and the Osmun- derleys, or Osmothcrleys, of the demesne. It appears that the latter had then been a considerable time in pos- session. William Osmunderly, of liangrigg, was sheriff of Cumberland in the reign of Henry IV., and in the preceding reign the same person, or a person of the same name, was one of the knights of the shire. From an inquisition taken in 1578, we learn that the free- holders at that period were as follow: — "Thomas Hul- ton, Esq., in the right of his wife holdeth certain lands in Langrigg, late Christopher Martindale, by homage, fealty, suit of court, from three weeks to three weeks, and rendereth. William Osmotherley, gent., holdeth certain lands at Langrigg aforesaid, late the lands of Richard Osmotherley, by like services, and rendereth. The same William holdeth there a tenement, called Langrigg Hall, by like services, and rendereth per annum. Robert Barwis, gent., holdeth there the third part of the lands of the said Clement Skelton, and ren- dereth per annum. Anthony Brisco, gent., holdeth there another third part of the lands of the said Clement Skel- ton, and rendereth per annum. Adam Lathes holdeth there another third part of the said Clement's lands, and rendereth per annum. The whole town of Lang- rigg aforesaid paieth yearly to the lord at the feasts of St. Martin and Pentecost, for cornage 6s. 6d., seawake, 8d., for turnsilver, 3s. lOd. in toto lis. 6d. Adam Lathes holdeth at Langrigg aforesaid, two tenements by like services, and rendereth per annum, Id." By an inquisition, post mortem, of Cuthbert Osmunderley, 4th Oct. 41 Elizabeth (1599), it appears that at that date the Porters held the manor and old rent, and the Os- munderleys the demesne and six tenements. This Cuthbert Osmunderly, first mentioned, in addition to his other possessions, died seised of six tenements in Wheyrigg, one in Moorrow, one in Blencogo, two in Bewaldeth, one in Armathwaite, six iu Oughter- side, four in Meldrigg, seven in Waverton, and four in Southwaite. At a subsequent period the Porters sold the manor to the Osmunderleys, the last of which family, the Rev. Salkeld Osmunderley, sold the manor and demesne, in 1735, to Thomas Barwis, Esq., in whose family they still continue ; William Barwis, Esq,, of Langrigg Hall, being the present lord. The abbey of Holme Cultram had possessions in Langrigg, which, after the suppression of the monastic institutions, were granted (amongst others), to Thomas Dalston, Esq. The present landowners of the township are Hugh J. Percy, Esq. ; Messrs. Johu Younghusband, John Wilkinson, Benjamin Barwis, the trustees of the late Joseph Miller, the trustees of the late W. Rudd, John Barnes, John Stamper, John Barnes, John Car- ruthers. John Pearson, Isaac Glaister; Mrs. Barwis, Mrs. Pearson, and Mrs. Clarke. WEST NEWTOX ECCLESIASTICAL DISTRICT. 217 The village of Langrigg consists of several good houses, pleasantly situated on a long ridge of laud, pointing eastward from Bromfield, six and a half miles west-by-south of Wigton. Here is a tile manufactory, carried on by Mr. J. Lucock. On Langrigg Bank is a Hour mill, worked alternately by water and steam. Langrigg Hall, a commodious mansion, occupying a delightful situation, a little north of the village, is the residence of Mrs. Carwis, widow of the late John Carwis, Esq. '§nibh of 3rait£]rigg |jall. This family was originally of Dearliam, which estate they acquired at an early period, by marriage with the heiress. The senior line merged into the family of Lamplugh. A branch, settled at Isle Kirk, in Westward, became extinct about the latter end of the seventeenth century, the co-heiresses marrying into the Fetherstonhaugh and Khkley families. TuoMAS Barwis, Esq., married Elizabeth Osmotherley, a descendant of a family which had settled in the parish of Brom- field, temp. Edward I., and had pnrchnsed Langrigg in the reign of Richard II., and by her, with three daughters, and another son, was father of Joiix Bahwis, Esq., of Langrigg, who married Elizabeth Brisco, and had Thomas, John, William, and Elizabeth. The third son, WiLLUM Baewis, JI.D., of Devizes, born 2 jth June, 1740, married Sarah, daughter of the lute Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart., of Brayton, and by her (who died 10th October, 1802), left at liis decease, November 29*, 791, John Baewis, Esq., J.P., of Langrigg Hall, bom 18lh August, 177.'5, married, "1st August, 1S18, Frances, youngest daughter of the Eev. John Gutcli, M.A., registrar of the University of Oxford, and had issue, William Cuthbebt, present representative. Thomas Osmotherley, bom Cth April, IH-ii. Sarah Jane, married, 7lh November, 1850, to the Eev. Charles Frederick Booker. Elizabeth Fanny, died unmarried, 1845. On the demise of Mr. Barwis, he was succeded by his son, The Eev. Willum Cuthbeet Baewis, M..\., incumbent of Christ Church, Leeds, boi-n 10th July, 1821; married 3rd January, ISOO, Maiy, youngest daughter of the late Benjamin Hogton, Esq., of Waltham Abbey, Essex, and has a daughter. Amy. Anns — Arg., a chevron, between three boars' heads, couped, sa., muzzled, or. Crest — A bear mn^zlecl. Motto — Bear and Forbear. WEST NEWTOX ECCLESIASTICAL DISTRICT. The Ecclesiastical District of West Newton is bounded on the north by St. Cuthbert's parish, Holme Cultram ; on the west by Allouby ; on the south by Aspatria ; and on the east by Langrigg. It comprises the township of West Newton, and ilealrigg, part of Langrigg and Mealrigg township ; as the parish of Bromfield is now to be divided into three. West Newton will shortly be constituted a separate and distinct parish, under Lord Blandford's Act. WEST KEWTOX. The area of this township is returned with that of Allonby ; its rateable value is £2,066 12s. lOd. Its population in 1801 was returned with that of Allonby ; in lv«ll, it was 223 ; in 1821, 309 ; in 1831, 322 : in 1841, 335 ; and in 18-51, 347. The mhabitants, who are entirely engaged in agricultural pursuits, reside principally in the village of West Newton, some of them however reside in the hamlets of Howrigg and Yearn Gill, or Urn Gill, and a few scattered houses. Although the houses generally are very clean, yet the people have not been remarkable either for good morals or for keeping their village in commendable order. This was owing, in a great measure, to the want of reli- gious and secular education. Within the past year, however, this want has been supplied, and there is already a marked improvement. The soil here is gene- rally fertile. Cockermouth, Wigton, and Marj'port, are the markets usually attended. The manor of West Newton was given by Alan, second Lord of Allerdale, to Odard de Wigton, who gave it to Kctel, his fourth son, father of Adam de Newton, who 23 first took that name. This Adam was succeeded by his brother Eichard, who gave lands at Newton to the abbey of Holme Cultram, which grant was confirmed by Adam de Newton, his son. This Adam had a son, Richard, who also confirmed the grant of his grand- father. Richard had a son, Thomas, who in his tm-u had a son, Thomas, whose daughter and heir became the wife of Roger Martindale, and brought West Newton to that family, who continued to possess it for fom- or five generations, until the family ended in daughters. Amongst the knights' fees in Cumberland, in 1543, it appears that Cuthbert RadclilTe, John Blennerhasset, Anthony Barker, Richard Dacre, and Humphrey Dacre. in the right of their wives, daughters, and heu-s of James Martindale, co-parceners, held jointly and undivided the manor of Newton-upon-the-Sea, with the appurtenances and the vill of Newton, of the king, in capite, by knights' service, cornage 13s. 4d., seawake, and suit of com-t. They also held the manor of Ormesby ; with lands and tenements in Langrigg, Bromfield, Mealrigg, Crook- dake, Kelsyke, and Lovmthwaite, by like services. After the partition of the estates, Newton came to the 218 ALLEUDALE - BELOW - Di'KWENT -WARD. Musgraves, by the marriage (as it appeare) of one of the co-heirs of Jlartindale, after the death of her first hus- band : for Denton, who was contemporary, says, — " Xcwtou in Allerdale is now the inheritance of Edward Musgrave, second son to William and his wife, one of tlie co-heirs of Martindale, last of that name, lord of Newtou." Eleanor, daughter and heiress of Sir Richard j\lusgrave Hylton, Bart., brought West Newtou in mar- riage to William Joliffe, Esq., M.P., from whom it has descended to its present owner, Charles Jolifl'e, Esq., who succeeded Hylton Jolifife, Esq. The landowners, besides the lord of the manor, who owns above 1,000 acres, are, John Richmond, John Todd, John Richard- son, Mrs. Worsley, William Cape, J. Wilson, Miss Aglionby, and the trustees of the late Joseph Wise. The lands are held here by customary tenure, subject to :i fine of two years' rent on the death of the lord, or change of tenant ; the remainder is freehold. The lord holds a court annually. The castle stood at the west end of the village, but the ruins have now entirely disappeared, and ii little hillock in the centre of a grazing field alone marks the site. Aspatria common was divided by act of parliament in 1824, and a portioi%of it assigned to West Newton. The landowners of the township purchased their tithes more than 100 years ago. The village of West Newton is pleasantly situated at the junction of two small rivulets, three and a half miles east-by-north of Allonby, and eight miles north-east of Maryport, and west-by-south of Wigton. The small streams just mentioned run through the village, and though useful are certainly not ornameutal, though they might easily be made so. The want of church accommodation had long been felt in the parish of Bromfield, and Mrs. Barwis, of Langrigg Hall, undertook some time ago to raise sub- scriptions towards building and endowing a church, and great praise is due to that lady for the strenuous efforts •she made for that purpose. There seemed, however, little likelihood of raising the sum required until John Todd, Esq., of Manchester, a native of West Newton, carae nobly forward and offered to build, at his own cost, a church, parsonage, school, and teacher's house. Such an offer was not to be refused, and Mrs. Barwis readily consented to invest for an endowment the sum she had collected, which amounted to i"3,300. Besides build- ing the above, which cost JB3,000, Mr. Todd also gave f 500 towards the endowment. He is also a large con- tributor towards the stipend of the incumbent and the schoolmaster, and at his death intends endowing both church and school. This is an example worthy the imitation of our merchant princes, and is a substan- tial proof that Mr. Todd has not forgotten his native village, which he left more than thirty years ago. West Newtou Church, dedicated to St. Matthew, was erected in 1857. It is a neat structure, in the Early English style, consisting of nave and chancel, and pos- sesses four beautifully-stained windows, by Wailes, of Newcastle. That in the east end of the chancel con- tains a representation of the Crucifi.tion, Resurrection, and Ascension, with the symbols of the four Evange- lists ; the west window, erected by Mrs. Barwis, in memory of her daughter, has for its subject, St. Mat- thew and St. Barnabas ; the third, on the north side of the chancel, The Woman Anointing the Feet of Jesus ; the fourth, on the south side of the chancel, Mary sit- ting at the feet of Jesus. With regard to the internal fittings of the church, there is no country church in the county that can be compared with it, — everything is good, useful, and beautiful. The cost of erection was about ±a,000. All the rites of the English Church are performed here. The church is endowed with £2,300 ; the value of the living is about £100 a-year. With the joint consent of the Rev. C. H. Wybergb, vicar of Bromfield, John Todd, Esq., and Mrs. Barwis, of Lang- rigg Hall, the right of nominating the incumbent was conveyed to the Bishop of Carlisle. The Rev. John Bone is the first and present incumbent. The Parsonage, a neat building in the Early English style, is situated at the west end of the village. It was erected in 1858, at a cost of about £1,000. A good school and master's house were erected in 1858. They are situated near the church, and are in the same style of architecture. The school is under government inspection, and supported by the children's pence and John Todd, Esq., by whom it was built, at a cost of £1,000. Howrigg and Yearn Gill, or Urn Gill, are two ham- lets in this township, both within a short distance of West Newton, aud may almost be considered a part of it. Warwick Hall is situated a little to the south-west of the village ; it is occupied by Mr. Richard Jackson, the principal tenant of the lord of the manor. John Todd, Esq., son of Joseph Todd, Esq., left his native village more than thirty years ago, and went to Manchester, where he became a very influential mer- chant, and to his honour has now become a liberal beneHictor to his native place. ALLONBY CIUPELRY. 219 ALLONBY CUAPELRY. AixoNHY CHAPELnY, which is uow (October, 1858,) about to be constituted a separate and distinct parish, is bounded on the north by the parish of Hohne St. Cuthbert and the Ecclesiastical District of West Newton, on the west bv the Solvray Frith, and on the south and east l)y the townships of Hayton and Melay in Aspatria parish. This chapelry comprises the towuship of Allonb; of the poor, itc. ALLONBT. The ai-ea of the towuship of Allonby, inclusive of that of West Newton, is 1,794 acres, and its rateable value j£4,020. Its population in 1801, with that of West Newton, was 720 ; iu 1811, Allonby alone, 655 ; in 182], 709; in 1831, 783; iu 1841, 811; and in 1851, 749; who are all collected in the village of Allonby. The principal employment of the people is agriculture ; a few are engaged as fishermen or boat- men ; and there are also a few handloom weavers, working principally for a firm at AVigtou. The inha- bitants chiefly attend Maryport market; a few, how- ever, go to Wigton. The soil here is sandy, some loamy, and iu parts there is a mixed quality, resting chiefly on a clayey subsoil. There are two red free- stone quarries, one on the property of Charles Joliffe, Esq., and the other on that of General Wyndham ; both of which are worked by Mr. Henry Graves, of Aspatria. The manor of Allonby, or Alanby, is said to have received its name from Alan, second lord of Allendale, " who being a melancholic man, was pleased with the lo\ ely situation of the place, and the rather as it was near the abbey of Holme, which he had undertaken to rebuild." This Alan is stated by Nicolsou and Burn to have given AUonby " to some of his kindred, who took their name therefrom, and were called De Alanby." There appears to have been a John de Alanby, and an Edward de Alanby, and these are the only members of the family with whose names we are acquainted. In the reign of Edward III. a Do Lacy occurs as proprietor. Soon after this the male Hue of the Alanbys appears to have failed, and a female heir brought it in marriage to William de Flimby. From the FUmbys the manor passed in a similar manner to the Blennerhassets. John Blennerhassett, Esq., of Carlisle, lord of Allonby, having married Janet, one of the five daughters of James Martindale, lord of New- ton, the latter family continued to hold Allonby till the year 1700, when they sold it to William Thomlinson of Blencogo Hall, who hi 1701 or 1702 sold the lands in Allonby to the tenants, reserving a small quit-reut. This gentleman was succeeded by his son William Thomhnson, and the male line failed in John Thom- linson, Esq., of Brisco Hill, CarUsle, who, dying bich is united with that of West Newton for the support without issue, the manor and other possessions were left in trust for the two daughters of his brother W'il- liam, who lived iu Ireland. The eldest daughter mar- ried Captain Samuel Wyndowe, and the younger Robert Swann, Esq. On a partition of theu- possessions, Samuel Wyndowe, Esq., became lord of the manor. He -was succeeded by his son, Oliver Thomlinson Wyndowe, Esq., who died in London ; and the manor is now held by JMrs. George Reay and her sister. Ormesby, in this parish, was anciently a small manor held by the lords of Dearham, who gave lands out of Ormesby to the abbey of Holme Cultram. The manor passed from the lords of Dearham to the Martindales, lords of West Newton, with whom it continued till the demise of James Martindale, when it was divided among his daughters. One part, coutiining Melay, Crook- hurst, and other lands, called Ormesby lands, became joined to the manor of Allonby, being the jointure of Janet Martindale, wife of John Blennerhasset. The other part, containing Melay Hill and Bowscale, with other lands, became the property of William Musgrave, Esq., of Hayton Castle, who married Isabella, one of the five daughters of James Martindale above-men- tioned. An inquisition taken iu the 20 th year of the reign of Queen Elizabeth (1578), informs us that " W^Uliam Musgrave, Esq., boldeth three parts of five parts of the manor of Ormesby, late the lands of George Martindale, by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, from three weeks to three weeks, and payeth yearly for cornage, seawake, and fee-farm, at ye feasts of St. Martin and Penticoste, 2s. 5d. John Blennerhasset holdeth one part of five parts of the manor aforesaid by like services, and payeth for cornage, seawalte, and fee- farm, Qid. John Radclifi' holdeth another part of the said five parts of the manor aforesaid, by like service, and pa3'eth for cornage, seawake, and fee-farm, 9id." Ormesby manor has since passed with the manors of Allonby and Hayton. The principal landowners are ^Messrs. William Wil- liamson, Thomas Williamson, William Beeby, John Saul, John Osborne, Peter Nicholson, Thomas Bouch ; Sirs. Bragg, and Mrs. Dickinson. The village or town of Allonby is situated on the coast, five miles north-north-east of Maryport, and com- mands a fiue view of the Solway and the Scottish coast 220 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. and mountains, among which Criffel stands conspicuous. The town, which contains some good houses, has a neat appearance, is much resorted to for sea-batliing, for wliicli it is well adapted, the sands being smooth and firm, and the inclination of the beach to the sea so gradual that bathing may be easily enjoyed at all times of the tide. The herring-fishery here, at some seasons, is very productive ; but, at others, the shoals of this fish, after remaining in the channel ten years, are said to leave the coast, and after an absence for the same length of time, to return again. Allonby contains a hotel, several good inns, besides capacious boarding and lodging- houses. Baths were erected in 1835, and in the same building are news and assembly rooms. A meat and vegetable market is held here every Satui'day. THE CnCECH. Allonby Church or Chapel, called " Christ Church," was erected and originally endowed by Dr. Thomlinson, vicar of Newcastle-on-Tyne, and canon of St. Paul's, London,' in lTi4, but was rebuilt by subscription about eleven years ago. It is a cruciform structure, and probably one of the worst specimens of churchwardens' architecture to be found in the county. It will accom- modate about 400 persons. There is a splendid mural tablet to the late Captain Joseph HudJart, F.E.S., I The following letter of Dr. Thomlinson, gives an account of the foundation of Allonby Church, and is interesting from the account which tliewritergivcsof himself and his various charitable works: — Mv GOOD Lord, — Your judicious and learned labours are so ser- viceable to all impartial and unbiassed readers, and your advices upon emergent difBculties are so useful to your friends, that I, who have tasted of both, cannot but earnestly wish that this may €nd you in as perfect health, as I enjoy, who am advanced -ivithin a few months of 7li. I have been eight years blind, and by the blessing of God, am not only easy and contented, but cheerful and as well dis- posed as ever to works of piety and charity, in which, for five years past, I have bestowed more than the neat produce of my living, pre- bend, &c. I go nowhere but to ths house of God, which, when I entered in 1712, was in a sorry condition, covered over with green mould, but is iinw btiiutifiil aii.l alcinnil, with three galleries, two of my erciii ■ r :,arity school; a handsome chancel, wiiii i windows; and tlie commu- nion tabli- ; I ii iinaments as no country church I kii... . i .... :,. .. i . l ,,.„! :..^:ii. I delight to be present on prayer days, and esptciiUly on Sundays, when we have constantly full congregations ; and at monthly sacraments, when I always con- secrate the elements, and give the bread. When I drew near to the common term of man's life, my mind was frequently filled with tm~ common apprehensions of the uncertainty of life, the iirst importance of charity, of laying up treasure in heaven, and the awful and endur- ing speech of the Great Judge to the sheep on his right hand, and the day of judgment, which then inspired inc n-ith a resolution to devote the income of my spuitual preferments, to the finishing such chari- ties as I had then in view, and to act the wise merchant, who, before he removes to a foreign eountij, sends his effects before him. That wise resolution, which moved me as a divine impulse, produced the building of two charity schools, one here, and the other, for fifty children, at Bellinghnm, in the parish of Simonbum, which is com- puted twenty-four miles in length, and twenty in breadth, besides one of the Elder brethren of the Trinity House, and a distinguished navigator, who was born in the village. It is of white marble, and was e.xecuted by Fontano, of Carrara, and cost ^500. The incumbent is a perpetual curate or vicar, presented by the vicar of Bromfield, in richt of his vicarage. Allonby will shortly be made a distinct parish, under the provisions of Lord Blandford's act. The tithes are at present paid to the motlier church of Bromfield. The founder of the chapel. Dr. Thomlinson above-mentioned, endowed it with .£900, which, with £200 obtained from Queen Anne's Bounty, were vested in a rent-charge to be paid out of an estate in Abbey Holme. The living subsequently received another augmentation, which was expended in purchase of land at Carlisle ; it is now worth about £'90 a year. I I Incumbents. — Thomas Wilson, ; John Cowan, ; William Graham, M.A., ; Gilfrid Hartley, M.A., 1823, ; James Carter, 1850 ; John Eitson, M.A., 1851 ; J. Ponsonby Steel, M.A., 1858. There is a parsonage house. The Society of Friends and the Independents have each a place of worship in this village. Allonby School is a plain stone building, rebuilt in 1837, on the site of the old school, adjacent to the church. It is endowed with some land purchased with £100 left in 17.53 by Mrs. Thomlinson, relict of Dr. the library at Newcastle, of which your Lordship had a particular account in 1841. I mention these, my Lord, not byway of vanity, for I disclaim all merit, and do know that in me tliere is nothing 1 can call my own, but the abuse of mercies, my follies, failings, and imperfections : if there be anything in me that is good, it is from God, to which I owe all my good thoughts and dispositions, and my very abilities to do good, for I was the youngest of ten children, and God's providence was mine inheritance. This, my Lord, I presume to offer as the best apology I can make, for my neglect in your Lord- ship*3 cathedral, where for many years 1 have been an unwortliy member, and I hope you will he so favourable as to conclude that, though I cannot labour in the vineyard, as I did now fifty years, before the loss of sight, yet 1 am now not altogether useless and un- profitable. A half a year ago, when I had erected three small monuments and memorials of my gratitude to the Divine bounty, and had intended to put an end to my public chwities, I met witli such a melancholy account of the want of a chapel at Allonby, in Cumberland, as engaged me in building one tliere, with a school annexed, which will be finished tliis week, of which 1 will give a full account to your Lordship. Allonby is situated on the banks of the Solway Frith, ten miles west of Wigton, where, in 1724, I put six clergymen's widows into a college of matrons, whose stamtes your Lordship was pleased to revise. There, a yeiu' or two after, 1 built a school, with a dwelling-house for the master, one fabric of ashlar work, with hewn door-case, windows, and rustic coins, twelve yards long ; that is accounted a handsome building; but this which I have built here, two years ago, exceeds it in size and beauty. I beg your Lordship's pardon for trespassing so long upon your patience, and remain, my good Lord, Your most obedient and obliged Humble Servant, lioBEKT Thomlinson, Rector of Whickham. To the Eight Rev, Edmund Lord Bishop of London. CALDBECK PARISH. 221 Thomlinson, aud now producing about £.^ 10s. per annum, for which ten free scholars are taught by the master. The number of children in attendance is about forty. The British School was erected by subscription in 1810. It possesses an endowment of X'oO a rear, arising from the proceeds of a sum of money invested iu the Darlington railway, by Thomas Eichardson, Esq., of Stamford Hill, near London, who transferred it to the use of this school, the master and mistress of which receive £'25 each, or an equal share of the profits. CALDBECK PARISH. The parish of Caldbcck is bounded on the north by the parishes of Westward, Bolton, and Sebergham ; on the west by Bassenthwaite, Uldale, and Ireby ; on the south by Bassenthwaite and Skiddaw ; and on the east by Castle Sowcrby and Greystoke parishes.' Its area is 24,280 statute acres, of which about 12,000 are commons and fells, ■which afford good pasturage to numerous flocks of sheep, and abound with vai'ious kinds of game. The lands seem to rise by a gentle ascent from the vale of the Caldew up to the mountains. The soil near Caldbeck and Hesket is fertile, but the western part of the enclosed land is cold aud heavy. The minerals found in this parish are lead, copper, coal, and limestone — there is an almost boundless variety of the former; and while the surrounding rocks attract the eye of the geologist, few districts of a similar extent contribute more to the pleasure and cmiosity of the tourist, aud the cabinet of the mineralogist. The parish is divided into the townships of Low Caldbeck, High Cald- beck, Caldbeck Haltcliff, Mosedale, and Swineside. The inhabitants attend the Wigton, Carlisle, and Peurith markets. They reside in several small villages, but the majority are dispersed in single houses for agricultural purposes, and are engaged iu agriculture and mining. The rateable value of the whole parish is £6,073 per annum. It is evident a Eoman road has passed through the parish from the station near Papcastle to another near Plumpton. Entering the parish at the boundaiy near Uldale, it proceeded over the common to Pikeless Gate, thence by AVath to Hesket Newmarket, along the road now called Street, and from Hesket to MiUhouse, in the parish of Castle Sowerby, in the direction of the station Petriana. The commons belonging to the various townships in this parish are not enclosed, and contain by admeasurement 12,033 acres. LOW CALDBECK. The population of Low Caldbeck township in 1801 was 505; in 1811, 635 ; in 1821, 720; in 1831, 738; in 1841, 646 ; and in 1851, 683. Its rateable value is £2,014 lis. 8d. The manor of Caldbeck is divided into two divisions, called Caldbeck Uppertou, or Uppertown, being that part which lies near the church ; and Caldbeck-under- FeU, the part near the mountains. The whole lordship or manor was held by the lords of Allerdale, tiU the sixth Earl of Northumberland gave it to Henry VIII., who granted Caldbeck Uppertown to Thomas Dalston, Esq., and Caldbeck-under-Fell to Thomas, Lord Whar- ton, the latter of whom soon became possessed of the ■whole, having purchased Mr. Dalston 's moiety. From a survey taken iu 1587 we learn the following par- ticulai-s relatmg to Caldbeck: — "The heirs of Henry Denton hold four messuages of the barony of Allerdale, and other lands and tenements in Caldbeck Upton and Caldbeck-uuder-Fell, by cornage, homage, &c., ren- dering per annum 7s. 6d. Phihp, Lord Wharton, holdeth Caldbeck-under-Fell, being of the ancient pos- sessions of the said earl, and of the yearly value of £20, granted amongst other things by Henry, late Eai'l of Northumberland, uncle of the earl that now is, to one Thomas Wharton, controller of his household, to him and to his heirs male, paying therefore yearly £20. The same Lord Wharton holdeth Caldbeck Upton, being of ancient possessions of the said earl, aud of the yearly value of £8 10s. 4d., purchased of the said late King Henry VIIL, by one Thomas Dalston, to be holden of the king by knight's service, viz., the — part of a knight's fee, and by the yearly rent of 3Gs. 8id., of which lands and tenements the said Thomas Dalston ' The boundary line commences near the chm-ch, and extends northwoads along Bowten Beck to the angle of the road to Carlisle, from thence in a straight line to Thornthwaite GUlhead, tlieu to near Folds, and from thence by Thomey Stone to Pin GUI, then to Elpha Well, from thence to Greenah ■Well, near Uldale, dien to a stone chau- near Bagray Gate, then to a stone called Fallen Gruel, then to a cmder bed near Longlands, thence to a boundary stone adjoming the river Ellen, from thence to a stone near Coppock, thence to the road and enclosed lands to Dash and Caudlesieve bog, end to Dead Beck foot, and to the river Caldew at Scot's Fold, aud along the river Caldew to ilickleheck, near Hesket Hall, and along Micklebeck to the commencement near the church. 222 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. iufeoffed Thomas, Lord Wharton, grandfather to the said Philip, Lord Wharton, by the rents and services to the said Earl of Northumberland due, 36s. 8id." The following are the free tenants in Caldbeck Uppertown and Caldbeck-under-Fell at the period of the survey : — " The heirs of Edward Blennerhasset holdeth there two messuages, twenty acres of land, with appurtenances, by knight's service, viz., for cornage, homage, feallie, and suit of court of Allerdale, and render Ss. 'M. The heirs of John Sleawright hold there one tenement and eight acres of land, by like services, and render Od. The heirs of Robert Warcop hold certain lands there by like services, and render Is. The dean and chapter of Carlisle hold there certain lands called Sharelands, by like services, and render per annum Is. The heirs of Robert Vaux hold there certain lands, by like services, and render Is. The heirs of Robert Priestman hold there certain lauds called Wardflat, by Hke service, and render Od. The heirs of William Eaglesfield hold there certain lauds, late the lands of John Caldbeck, by like services, and render is. The tenants and inhabitants of the said town of Caldbeck pay to the lord yearly, for cornage, 20s.; for seawake, 2s. Id.; in toto, 22s. Id." The entire manor continued to be held by the Wharton family till the famous Duke Philip, whom Pope calls " the scorn and wonder of our days," and who was the last of the family, was obliged to alieuate this and other estates to four trustees, for the payment of his debts. Being sold by the trustees to Charles, Duke of Somerset, it became again united to the barony of Allerdale, and has descended with that barony to General Wyndham, who is now lord of the soil ; but the minerals, which had been reserved to the crown, now belong to the Earl of Pomfret ; Sir George William Denys, Bart. ; and Sir I'rancis Shuckburgh, Bart. The landowners in this township are Jackson Gillbanks, Esq.; William Jen- nings, Esq. ; John Jennings, Esq.; Lieut.-col. Wilson ; George G. Mounsey, Esq. ; Messrs. Richard Harrison, Joseph Scott, John Smith, and Thomas James, with several small onners and resident yeomen. The village of Caldbeck is situated in this township, at the north-eastern extremity of the parish, near the conlluence of the Caldew and the Caldbeck, one and a half miles north-west of Hesket Newmarket, and seven miles south-south-east of Wigton. Weaving, bobbin- making, fulling, and other manufactures, are carried on here. The origia of this village is said to have been as follows : — " Long after the Conquest this parish was a wild forest and desolate waste, and, being crossed by a high-road which extended from Westmoreland to the western coast of Cumberland, it lay under the imputa- tion of being the resort of dangerjus outlaws, who fre- quently assailed travellers. To prevent this as much as possible, Ranulph Engayue, chief forester of Inglewood, granted a license to the Prior of Carlisle to build an hospital here, for the purpose of entertaining travellers and protecting such as were benighted from the hands of prowling freebooters. On this grant the prior enclosed some portions in the environs of the hospital, when soon afterwards a church was erected, around which a village quickly rose, and the parish of Caldbeck was called into existence. The hospital was dissolved about the time of King John, and the church endowed with its lands, which have since been designated the manor of Kirk- laud." King John was at Caldbeck on the 20 th June, 1218. THE CnUECH. Caldbeck Church is a very ancient fabric, dedicated to St. Muugo, or St. Kentigern, the tutelar saint of the north, and is supposed to have been erected in the year 1112. It consists of a nave, two side aisles, and chancel. Gospatrie, son of Orme, granted the patronage of the rectory to the priors of Carlisle, which grant was con- firmed by William de Vesey, and Burga his wife, and dame Alice Romiley, lady of Allerdale, and also by the kings Henry I. and Edward II. About the year 1223 Prior Bartholomew granted the advowson to the bishop of Carlisle, and his successors have since enjoyed the same, but not without question, for in 1267, Ciceley, Countess of Albermarle, eldest daughter of William Fitz Duncan, is said to have claimed it, but we are not in- formed upon what her claim was grounded. It is added, however, that upon a quare impedit, the bishop recovered the right of collation to the church of Caldbeck. The benefice is a rectory, valued in the King's Book at £45 3s. 6d., and returned in 1845 as of the annual value of £436 ; it is now worth £480 per annum. The Bishop of Carlisle is patron. The tithes have been commuted for £345, and there are nearly 200 acres of glebe. The church has this year (1858) been lighted and heated with gas. The parish register commences for baptisms, April 10th, 1040 ; marriages, April 17th, 1031 ; burials, June 2nd, 1028. Eectoes. — John Franceys, ; Alan, ; Robert de Halgbton, 1.312; Adam de Appleby, ; Robert de Bramley, 1332; Peter Galiciano, 1334; Nicholas de Whitri-g, 1333; William de llagenbill, 1302 ; Thomas de Salkeld, 1309 ; Thomas del Hall, 1379 ; Hugh Sewell, ; Thomas Fairfax, 1383; Frederick Tunstall, 1010; Richard Hutton, 1007 ; Arthur Savage, 1003; Jeffrey Wybergh, 1700; John Waugh, 1727; I'ynsou Wilmot, 170S ; Browne Grisdale, 17S9 ; James Lynn, 1813 ; James Tbwaytes. 1805. There is an excellent rectory house, of large dimen- sions. The entrance hall, which is sixteen feet wide CALDBECK PARISH. 223 bj' thirty-two ftiet long, is supposed to be the old hall of the ancient hospital of Caldbeck. The places of worship in the parish, in addition to the church, are a Methodist chapel at Hesket ; a Friends' meeting-house at Caldbeck High, another near Hesket, and another at Mosedale. The Quakers do not now meet in these chapels, having become absorbed by the church. The school is a neat stone building, in the Eliza- bethan style, erected in 1831, by John Jennings, Esq., of Fell Side, at a cost of £300. It is supported by quarter-pence and private subscriptions. About 100 children are educated here. CnAKITIES. School. — In a terrier of this parish, d.ated November 10th, 1749, it is stated that there is belonging to the parish of Caldbeck a school stock, which was raised by voluntary contribution in the year 10-17, as (it is stated) would further appear by an ancient book kept for that purpose. The principal stock at that time is stated to be £103, then lodged in the hands of the most sub- stantial inhabitants of the parish, for which they paid the sclio'^lmaster interest at lOd. in the pound. It is also added that by one of the articles agreed upon at the first endowment, the contributors to the said stock, and their lineal descendants enjoying the estates of the first contributors, should be free to the school ; but that, for tlie encouragement of the school, in case any of the estates should be sold, neither the seller nor buyer should thereafter be free. The Charity Commissioners state that " A great part of the sum of £103 above- mentioned is said to have been lost long ago, by the failure of a family of the name of Scott ; and all that is now known to remain is the sum of £47 10s. This money was in the hands of sis different persons, all of whom, for several years, paid interest for their several proportions, at lOd. in the pound, to the Rev. Joseph Rogerson, who was schoolmaster for twenty-five years. Mr. Rogerson has now left Caldbeck five or six years, since which time no mterest has been paid." They go on to state that they " suggested to the persons in whose hands the money remains, the propriety of paying in the principal with arrears of interest, in order that the object of the original subscription may, as far as possible, be fulfilled." The following mscripiion was over the door of the school ;— " Ex dono Robert! Vaux de Brownrigge, a.d. 1688 ;" but nothing more could be learnt of its foundation. Poor Stock. — By a terrier dated in 1740, it appears there was a poor stock of £30 (of which £15 had been left by Cuthbert Brown in 1065), which was placed out by the overseers, and the interest divided amongst the poor with the money collected at the sacrament. On examining the overseer's book, it was found that in 1771 the sum of £1 2s. Cd. was received as the interest of £30 poor stock, but no interest has been received for a great number of years. It appears probable that the principal sum was expended in building a poor-house ; and it is stated to have been so disposed of in returns made to parliament in 1786. The rector has a book containing an account of the distribution of the sacra- ment money for upwards of a century, by reference to which it appears that the principal money of several legacies left to the poor have been from time to time disposed of. A legacy of £40 left by John Lamb is stated in the returns of 1780 to have been distributed by the overseers in 1734. On examining the church- wardens' accounts, it appears that 6d. a year has been paid by the family of Nicholson of Hesket, for at least a century, for a property called Marshall Lands. These lands are held by the Nicholsons of the dean and chapter of Carlisle at a small rent, and Od. is paid also yearly to the churchwardens of Caldbeck, when called for, bat it has not been demanded since 1803. In the return of 1780 this was stated to be for the poor, but we could not discover the origin or object of the payment. Eev. Arthur Savage's Charity. — By will, dated Jst November, 1690, the Rev. Arthur Savage gave to the parish of Caldbeck £30, for the binding out poor men's children apprentices, which £50 he directed to be paid by £5 yearly for ten years ; and that the £5 so paid should be disposed yearly, with the advice of the rector and the churchwardens, to that use only and no other. This sum of £30 was paid by the executor to some of the principal inhabitants, and is now secured upon the tolls of the turnpike road between Penrith and Carlisle, the sum of 40s. being paid as interest. This charity is not disposed of in apprentice fees, but is distributed in sums of 4s. or 5s. to poor children when bound out by the parish. An account of the distribution has been regularly entered from 1723 to 1SI8 ; but since that period the interest has not been paid, no application having been made for it. It seems by the terms of the testator's wUl that he intended this legacy of £50 should be disposed of in ten apprentice fees, within ten years after his death ; the principal, however, has not been disposed of, but still remains as a permanent fund. Lord Wharton's Bible Charity.— The parish of Cald- beck is entitled to twenty Bibles from Lord Wharton's charity. The Bibles are regularly received and distri- buted by the clergyman amongst the poor of the parish. Simpsons Charily. — By will, dated 2-th August, 1781, Robert Simpson left the sum of 45s. yeai-Iy to purchase eight Common Prayer Books at 2s. 6d. each. 224 ALLERDALE - BE LOW - DERWENT WARD. to be given yearly to eight poor children of Caldbeck parislij and the remaining part of the money for buying religious books, or small tracts distributed by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, for the use of the children of the poor of Caldbeck ; all wliich said books should not exceed the value of 40s. ; and the remaining 5 s. he directed should be spent in a collation for the trustees when they should meet yearly. This sum of 45s. is regularly paid by the owner of the Fauld's estate, which is subject to this payment. A regular account is kept of the distribution, by which it appears that eight Prayer Books annually, and other books, to the amount in the whole of 40s., are given away in the manner directed by the testator. Bell's Gift. — John Bell, by will, left £40, the interest to be distributed to the poor widows of Caldbeck who do not receive parochial relief. The first disti-ibution was made in January, 1810. The interest, amounting to £1 133. 4d., is distributed in the church by the rector, yearly, about midsummer, amongst the poor widows properly qualified to receive it. Brownrigg, long the seat of a family of the name of Vaux, is a hamlet in this township, as is also Eatten Ptow, at the latter of which the rector of the parish has a small manor, called the manor of Kii-kland, the tenants of which pay £7 1 Ts. 4d. customary fines, and, on alienation, an arbitrary fine, but on the change of a tenant by death, only a God's penny, and on the death of a lord nothing. At Eatten Eow there is a chapel, a small stone building erected in 183-3 by the Indepen- dents. At 'VMielpo is a Friends' meeting-house, erected in 1608, attached to which is a burial ground. A library was established in the parish in 1849. ■which contains about 300 volumes, and is supported by annual subscriptions of two shillings per member. HIGH CALDBECK. The rateable value of this township is £1,017 4s. lid. The number of its inhabitants in 1801 was 239 ; in 1811, 267: in 1821, 272; in 1831, 207; in 1841, 282 ; and in 1831, 308. Tile making is carried on here. The landowners are Thomas Jennings, Esq.: John Jennings, Esq. ; Colonel Benson ; Samuel Sfeny- weather, Esq. ; Messrs. John Scott, Thomas Hudson, and Joseph Jackson, with several small owners and resident yeomen. This township contains the hamlets of Branthwaite, Fell-Side, Hudscales,' Greenrigg, and Nether Eow, with iHudscales has been derived from Old Norse liud, n hide, and skali, a wooilen hut or log house. The first may have reference to tlie skins of wild beasts laid over the roof as shelter, or nailed on the sides as trophies. some scattered dwellings extending from one to three miles west and west-by-south of Hesket Newmarket, being bounded on the south by Caldbeck Fells. Greenrigg is a small village, or hamlet, about three and a half miles west-by-south of Hesket Newmarket. It formerly belonged to the Musgraves of Crookdake, who were long a considerable family, holding several offices of great trust under the Earl of Northumber- land, from whom, it seems, they obtained several grants of sundry parcels of waste ground, all of which they con- verted into tenancies. Sir John Ballantine, who mar- ried Anne, the eldest daughter and co-heir of William Musgrave, Esq., sold these tenancies also to Lord ■\Vharton, from whose trustees they passed by purchase to the Duke of Somerset, and are now held by General Wyndham. CALDBECK HALTCLITF. The rateable value of this township is £2,093 16s. 8d. In 1801 it contained 427 inhabitants; in 1811, 534 ; in 1821, 590; in 1831,573; in 1841,567; and in 1851, 617. The landowners are Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart. : Jackson GiUbanks, Esq.; John Jennings, Esq.; Wil- liam Irving, Esq. ; Eev. J. Hudson : Messrs Eobert Priestmau, Isaac Harper, Joseph Nicholson, J. Young- husband, WiUiam Eobinson, WiUiam Hamilton, John Greenup, Thomas Oldman, C. Hudson, Thomas Eich- ardson, John Williamson, Joseph Scott, and others. In this township is a field called Fell Lodge, near Carroek Fell, which is said to be the first enclosure made in Caldbeck parish for the purpose of catching the deer before the general use of guns. HaltcliiT Hall, in this township, is a very ancient structure, several inscriptions about which denote that it was for a long period the residence of the Bewleys, some of whom were knights of the shire, tL'i7ip. Eichard II., Henry IV., and Henry V.' The elder branch of this family became extinct in the reign of Charles I., when the heiress married one of the Lawson family. The Messrs. Lysons state that they were not able to ascertain the arms of the Bewleys of Hesket ; but a year or two since the present owner of Haltcliff Hall, in pulling down a diy wall, found different armorial bearings, which formed a perfect shield, many of the quarterings being identical with those borne by the titled family of Boileau - (in the south of England) : so there can be no doubt that these families have had the 1 See page 73. * The arms of Sir John Peter Boilcan, BarL, of Tacolnestone Hall, Norfolk, are az., a tower, triple towered, masoned, sa.; in base, a crescent. The crest : a pelican in her piety, ppr., charged on the breast with a saltier, conped, gu., the nest resting on a coronet. The motto : De tout mon cceur. CALDBFXK PARISH. 225 same origin. The Cumberland Bewleys have been Quakers since the time of George Fox, who resided witli them at Woodball, in this parish. Haltcliff Hall has for .some time belonged to Jackson Gillbanks, Esq., of Wliitefield, who lias a large estate here ; it is now occupied as a farm-house. The manor of Hesket, containing 100 acres, in the township of Haltcliff, is a mouse manor, within that of General Wyndham. The heiress of AVilliam Beauly, or Bewley, Esq., whose ancestors possessed it for many generations, brought it, in the reign of Charles T., to the Lawsons, and it is now held by Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart. Hesket Hall, the manor-house, built by Sir Wilfrid Lawson, the first baronet, is a singular struc- ture, with twelve angles so contrived that the shadows give the hour of the day; the roof is circular, the chim- neys running up in the centre. It is now occupied as a fai'm -house. Hesket Newmarket is a small but neat market-town in this township, situated in a quiet spot among the moun- tains, near Caldbeck Fell, and upon the banks of the Caldew, thirteen miles south-west from Carlisle, and fouitaen north-north-west of Penrith. Its name is sup- posed to be a con-uption arising out of the rapid pro- nunciation of East Cote or East Gate ; both this town and tlrnt of Hesket-in-the-Forest having, perhaps, for- merly been the eastern inlets into the forest, on which they are respectively joined. The market, which was held on Friday, is nearly obsolete, or at least of little consequence ; but cattle-fairs are held hei-e on the first Friday in 3Iay, and every alternate Friday till Whit- suntide ; and for sheep and cattle, on the last Thursday in August, and the second Thursday in October. Howbeck forms the southern suburb of Hesket, and possesses a school, which has an endowment of £3 a year left by the late Mr. Richardson, to be paid out of his estate at Wham, for the education of the poor children of the parish. The school was erected by subsciiption, and it has an average attendance of fifty children. Haltcliff village is about half a mile south of Hesket. There is another school here, a plain stone building, with master's house attached, erected by subscription in 1831. It is supported by quarter-pence, and has an average attendance of twenty. In a freehold estate at Gillfoot, about three-quarters of a mile south of Hesket Newmarket, there seems to have been a Druid's grove, consisting of two parallel rows of large oak trees, extending 150 yards in length, and the rows twelve yards distant. In a level field, at the middle of the two rows, was a barrow of stones. The trees were cut down and the barrow the year 1794, when, beneath the barrow, several places where human bones had been burnt and deposited, were discovered, as also numerous pieces of flint and stone beads, and a stone battle-axe. Here is a Wesleyau chapel, a small stone building, erected by subscription in 1839, at a cost of £134. At Gillfoot is a Friends' meeting-house, erected in 1729. At one period this body had a place of worship at Woodball, in this township, the remains of which are yet visible. Woodball, the property of John Jennings, Esq., was formerly the seat of the Bewley family. There is a corn-mill in this township. MOSEDALK AND SWIXESLDE. The hamlets of Mosedale and Swineside, and Stone End pay tithes to the rector of Caldbeck, but support their own poor, who are sent to the Penrith Union Workhouse. Mosedale is looked upon by the inhabi- tants as an independent township and is said to belong to Leath Ward; but the Census Commissioners, though they return it as a separate township since 1841, return it with Allerdale-below-Dcrwent Ward. Its estimated area is about 301 acres, and its rateable value £189 Is. The population in 1841, was .JS ; and in 18.51, 59. The manor of Mosedale and Swineside, containing about 350 acres of enclosed land, belonged anciently to the baronial family of Dacre, and passed by female heirs, with the title, to the families of Fiennes and Lennard ; it was sold by the co-heu:ess of Thomas, Earl of Sussex, to Sir Christopher Musgrave, Bart., of Eden Hall, and by him to Edward Hassell of Dalemaiu, ancestor of E. M. Hassell, Esq., the present proprie- tor. This manor is stated to have been the place where the Dacres, barons of Greystock, kept their deer and wild swine ; but it was afterwards divided into ten- ancies. The landowners are John Jennings, Esq., Messrs. Joseph Wilson, Isaac Hunter, John Wilkinson, Thomas Martin, the trustees of Mungrisdale School, Mrs. Hesket, John Nicholson, and Jane Mitchell. The village of Mosedale is situated near the Caldew, four miles south of Hesket. Here is a meeting-house belonging to the Society of Friends, with burial ground attached, erected, or, as some say, rebuilt and enlarged, in 170'2. The meeting-house is now used but seldom, as the Friends meet at Mr. Pearson's house in Bow- scales village, a short distance from Mosedale. Swine- side lies about a mile to the west. About a mile from the latter place, is a mine in which several kinds of minerals have been found. It was worked in 1854 and 1855, but is now (1858) standing. Caldbeck Fells, including the lofty mountains of 226 AIXEKDALE - BELOW - DEUWENT WARD. Carrock Fell, High Pike, Brae Fell, Cald Fell, Noon Fell, and several smaller eminences, form an extensive Alpine region, comprising the greater part of the parish. At the meeting of the British Association in Dublin, a paper on the geology of Caldbeck Fells, and the lower sedimentary rocks of Cumberland, was read by Professor Harkness. The district alluded to in this communication forms the northern portion of the mountainous area of the lake district of Cumberland. Caldbeck Fells, including the eastern extremity of Carrock Fell, consist of masses of a plutouio and an igneous nature. Ou the southern slopes of these hills there is seen Skiddaw slate, which generally has a soutli dip ; and this Skiddaw slate, as it approximates the granite of Skiddaw Forest, passes into chiastolite slate, chiastolite rock, and a pseudo-gneiss. On the south side of the granite area the same phenomena occur, but on this side hornblende rock and aotiuoHte rock also appeal-. In the metamorphic rocks, and likewise in the ordinary Skiddaw slates which succeed them in position, the strike of the strata is nearly east and west; and the general arrangement of the strata seems rather to indicate that the Plutonic masses of Caldbeck FeUs form the axis of the group, rather than the l^ranite of Skiddaw Forest. With respect to the unaltered roclis of the Skiddaw district, these have been referred by Professor Sedgwick to three groups — black Skiddaw siate, grits seen in the masses of Grass- moor, and grey Skiddaw slate containin;^ fossils described in the Palaeozoic fossils of the WoodwarJian ^luseum. The upper grey slates are the deposits which have liitherto afforded organic remains. Last year the author obtained traces of worms from the black Skid- daw slate, the lowest member of the unaltered series, at Bralkeld, and from a communication which the author had recently from Professor Sedgwick, it would appear that in these low strata graptolites have been lately obtained by Jlr. J. Euthven. With regard to the litho- logical nature of these Skiddaw rocks, it would seem that there is a considerable change accoi'ding to locality. Westward grey slates, with intercalated grits, obtain on the line of the strike of the black Skiddaw slates, leading to the inference that the coarser beds supply the place of the finer black slates on the eastern margin of the area. The lofty mountains of Caldbeck Fells are traversed with numerous veins of lead and copper ore, producing mineral specimens in great variety. It is on record that Lord Wharton was the first mining adventurer in this locality (being lord of the manor), at or near Brandy Gill, in the sixteenth century, and it is supposed that Pioughtengill and Silvergill mines were opened about the same time. Driggeth mine was opened by Mr. Row in 1700, who wrought it by shallow shafts and day levels, and a kind of water engine, to the depth of twenty-five fathoms. He also erected, on the old prin- ciple, small smelting works, near Carrock Beck, the buildings of which still remain. After he left the mine it stood idle for some time, but was again opened in 1810, and worked until 1822, by Messrs. Richardson, Lowrey, and others, who erected a crushing mill to reduce the ore to a proper size for washing and smelting. During the time this company leased the mine, they employed from thirty to forty pickmen, and it is said they raised 500 bings, or 200 tons, of ore, for a period of five years successively, and that every ton of ore made twelve hundredweight of lead, or sixty per cent., and that every ton of lead, when refined, produced from forty-five to fifty, and even as high as sixty-two, ounces of silver to the ton of lead. But the experience of late years shows these figures to be incorrect, for the same vein is producing now the same kind of ore, and, by the improved mode of washing and refining, the ore is brought to seventy-five and seventy-eight per cent, of lead, and from twenty-five to thirty ounces of silver, to the ton of lead, a pretty good proof that the lead was burnt away in smelting, thus causing a serious loss to lessees and lessors, whilst the silver, being less fusible than the lead, remained in the lead that was left. T. R. G. Braddyll, Esq., of Conishead Priory, bought the mine in 1822, and drove up the present sandbed level, working the mine at a considerable loss till about 1834, when John Barrett, Esq., took and worked it four years, after which Messrs. Dickinson and Co. worked it till 1849, when Messrs. Brocklebank and Jeffrey, the present owners, took and commenced to work it in July of the same year, under the management of William Jeffrey, Esq. A more efficient mode of working was now introduced, and by great perseverance both under and above ground (for the machinery is all now erected and of a different kind to any in the country before i, the mine has got its name raised, if not to a good divi- dend paying mine, to one that pays as it goes. It was at this mine that Zenner's rotating briddle was first ei'ected, and it was found to be so elficieut for washing stamped ores that there has since been two more erected by the same company. During eight years ending December, 1857, there were raised 1,950 tons of lead and copper ore, which is close upon an average of S50 per annum, duty at one-tenth included. Employment has been given to thirty-five men and fifteen boys, on an average. The mine is worked by day levels to the depth of sixty fathoms, and a new level now in course of driving will come up thirty fathoms deeper still, and to CALDBECK PARISH. ssr extend these levels uuder the summit of the hill, it would be at least 200 fathoms deep. Driggeth mine is situated on the east side of High Pike, which here is composed of a light colom-ed clay slate. It is siugular that all over the hill is a great number of large blocks of granite, some of which are at least a hundred tons in weight. The nearest granite being Carrock, which is two miles to the south-east, and between which and High Pike there is a deep valley. Roughtengill mine, as above-mentioned, is supposed to have been opened in the sixteenth century, and is now held uuder lease from Earl Pomfrot. About the time that Mr. Braddyll commenced the working of the Driggeth mine, a company of working miners and others took up Eoughtengill ^nd Silvergill mines, which had been unnoticed for some time, and after a struggle of eight years a deeper level becoming necessary to win the mines, many members of the company to sell their shares to others who pos- capital. The late Thomas Dickinson, Esq., of Alston, who purchased one-fourth of the mine, having taken an active part in forwarding the work, a level thirty fathoms deeper was effected, to the extent of 300 fathoms, and a crushing-mill and other apparatus fur washing the ores were erected. During the ten years ending 1845, Pioughtengill mine produced 4,000 tons of lead and copper ore, and the company divided upwards of £9,000 profit, after paying all expenses, with dues at one-seventh included. Their successors have diiveu up a deeper level still, half a mile in length, and at a depth of 200 yards from the surface, and have erected smeltworks with de-silverising and refining apparatus complete, and are now raising large quantities of lead and copper ores. This mine affords employ- ment to about seventy men and boys, and produces annually from 500 to GOO tons of ore. It is worked by levels driven into the mountain more than half a mile in length, and upwards of 100 fathoms deep. The lodes or veins, which run nearly east and west, are of great strength and width, and produce a greater variety of ores than most mines of the same description. The greatest produce is silver lead, but the copper found is very rich, assaying sometimes as much as forty per cent. The average earnings of the men is about three shillings a day — farm-labourers, two shillings and six- pence. There are several other mines that have raised lead and copper ores, which have only been worked to a very limited extent, the dues then beiuj? one-seventh : now the dues are one -tenth only, nearly one -third less.' The mines here are generally let upon lease, at a stipu- lated duty (at present one-tenth) paid in ore in the raw state, in money, or in smelted lead. It is the opinion of practical men that these dues are too high, and that if more liberal encouragement were given to the enter- prising spirit of the present day, so that the various improvements which the science of modem times ha.s introduced into mining operations could be made use of, this manor would yield an increase of royalty hitherto unattaiued, together with gi-eater remunerating profits to the adventurer, and abundance of work to the mining population. Carrock Fell lies wholly in this parish. It is one of the flanks of that mountain group of which Skiddaw forms the crown, and is upwards of 2,000 feet in height, showing a double -pointed summit, on which a space appears to have been once enclosed by a wall. The front of the mountain is strewed with immense masses of rock, and " rivers of debris," which encroach on the way below. About half a mile west from the parish church, in a wild and romantic situation, is that striking curiosity the Howk — a deep waterfall in the bed of the river, over which is a natural bridge of limestone rock. Under this bridge the stream rushes with great impetu- osity, and dashing along over rugged rocks, it empties itself into a basin boiling in whirling eddies, covered with foam. The intertwining branches of oak, ash, and hazel, intercepting the sun's rays, throw a dense gloom over the recess, even at noonday ; whilst the long dark weeds and matted grass hang over the wave-worn rock in rich festoons, interlaced with bright green ferns. On one side is a deep excavation called the Fahy's Kettle, the receptacle, in time of floods, of another cascade that falls about twenty yards down perpendicular rocks ; a little to the right of which is a cavern eighteen yards long, called the Fairy Kirk, in which the noise of the cataract has an imposing efiect. This and the Kettle, which is then filled, are inaccessible at high floods. Not far from CaiTock, at Haltchff Bridge, the river takes a subterranean passage, which it keeps for a space of about four miles, when it emerges opposite to Warnell Hall estate, near Sebergham Bridge, at a place called Spouts Dub. The subterraneous course is formed almost entirely of limestone rock, and, in dry summers, when the water is low, takes in nearly the whole stream. 1 The statistics of the lead and other mines of the county, from the latest published retiu-ns, will be found at page 73. 298 ALLEPiDALE - BELOW - DERWENT MAED. HOLAIE CULTRaM PARISH. Toe parish of Holme Cultram, which, since the passing of Lord Blaudford's Act in 18S0, comprises only the township of Holme Abbe)', is bounded on the north-east by East Waver township, on the north-west by Holme Low township, on the south-west by St. Cuthbert's township, and on the south and south-cast by the parish of Bromfield. The best survey that lias been made of the iiarish is that of the tithe commission, the plans, &e., of which are under the care of the incumbent. Wood was granted to the tenants for maintenance of the sea-dykes. There were salt-pans under demise by indenture. The sea banks had been broken down, and sixty acres of land wasted and covered with sand. Newton Tower, a defence against the enemy in war, was in decay, as were also four bridges. Wulstey Castle mentioned below was also in decay. The inqui- sition which reported these things (and a return made thereto by jurors) stated that if that fortress was not maintained and upheld for the defence of the eastern part of the lordship in time of war, fourteen townships of the )-early rent to the crown of i£120 17s. would be spoiled and destroyed by the enemy. The service on the border was to be one hundred with horse and armour, eighty serviceable men furnished with meaner horses or nags, and footmen furnished with bows or spears, besides men's sons and servants. The salt-pans were washed away by the sea, and many workmen drowned. Those that performed boon service had for every plough for three days' work seventeen white herrings and six red herrings, a quarter of a killin, a quarter of a salmon, three wheat loaves, three loaves of yeoman's bread, and three gallons of ale ; for every sheerbond in harvest, to every person for three days, three loaves of bread, six white herrings and three pints of ale ; besides, at Christmas, every tenant and his wife dined at the abbey. The manor continued in the crown, and was granted as a jointure to Henrietta Maria, on her marriage with Charles I. in 1625 ; it was also granted as a jointure to Catherine of Portugal on her marriage in 1602, with diaries II. In 1693 the manor was conveyed by grant of the crown to Frances Villicrs, of Middlesex, spinster, to be held in free and common socage by fealty at the rate 1 3s. 4d. per annum, under the royal manor of Greenwich. In 1693 the said Frances Villiers sold the manor to Bartliolomew Burton, Esq., of the county of Suffolk, in whose family it continued till 1739, when William Burton, representative of the said Bartholomew Burton, sold it for £11,100 to Edward Stephenson, Esq., of Barfield, in the county of Essex. In 1768 John Stephenson succeeded by inheritance. In 1770 Row- laud Stephenson, of the city of London, succeeded by will, and, in 1788, purchased from the crown the reserved annual rent of 13s. 4d. In 1790 Edward Stephenson succeeded by inheritance, and seven years The manor of Holme Cultram, comprising the whole of the ancient parish of Holme Cultram, was demesne of AUerdale, but King Stephen having given Cumber- land and the earldom of Huntingdon to Prince Henry, eldest son and heir apparent of David, king of Scot- laud, Henry, in the year 1150, gave two parts in three of the Holme to the abbey, and the remaining third to jilan, son of Waltheof, for his hunting there, but Alan at once gave his portion to the abbey, and Waltheof, his son, consented to tlie grant, which was confirmed by Prince Henry of Scotland, as well as by David and Malcolm, kings of Scotland. On the death of Stephen, Henry II. succeeded to the English throne, and re- suming the grant of the county of Cumberland made by his predecessor to the Scots, the community of Holme Abbey acknowledged him as their founder, receiving from him a grant of the whole island of Holme and Baby, with timber and pasture in the forest of Inglewood, which grant was confirmed by the charters of his sons and successors, Richard I. and John. The greater portion of the lands with which the abbey became thus endowed consisted of forest, but the monks soon brought some of it into cultivation, and erected granges for husbandry at Raby, Mawbergh, Skinburn, Culshaw, and Newton Arlosh, and turned all into tillage, meadow, and pasture. They also had several privileges and exemptions granted to them by the kings of this realm, together with a confirmation of all former grants, as particularly freedom from shires, and hundreds, and wapentakes, and toll and theam, and iufangthicf, and assart, and waste (except in the king's forests), and from regard of the forest, and escape, and amerciaments and geld, and danegeld, and assizes, and seaward and eastlcwork, and tallage and cornage, and passage and stallage, and scutage, and aids of sheriffs, and in general all secular exaction. The charters, grants, and privileges of the monastery were confirmed by the bulls of several popes, Alexander III., Clement III., Inno- cent III., Gregory IV., Innocent V., and Honorious IV. The manor continued to be possessed by the abbot and convent of Holme Cultram till the time of the disso- lution of the religious houses. From the year 1540 until 1093 it remained in the crown. In 1572-3 there were no freeholders in the lordship. The tenants were to serve in peace and war on the borders with horee and armour, and to uphold the sea-dykes. >Vedholm HOLME CULTRAM PARISH. 229 afterwards Rowland Stephenson succeeded in a similar manner. In 1807 Edward Steplieuson inherited the manor, wliich he held till 1833, when Roland Stephen- son succeeded by inheritance, and in the following j-ear assumed, by royal license, the name of Standish. In 18 i3 Edward Ferris Standish succeeded by inheritance; and in 181-5 was succeeded by Rowland Edmund Walter Perv Standish, Esq., of Farley Hill House, Berks, the present lord of the manor. The copyhold lands are held by the payment of a j-early fixed rent, and by attendance at the manorial courts. Military service was iu former times required of the tenants. It is the custom of the manor that if, on the demise of a tenant, his lieir-at-law neglects to claim his title within twelve months, the next person iu the line of inheritance may be called and declared tenant. If a tenant wishes to sell or alienate a portion of the land which he holds, the lord can on such severance claim five per cent on the value of the land so severed. The custom of the manor is that there shall be three courts baron and two courts leet held within the manor each year. There is not, and it does not appear that there ever has Xf-en, a manorial seat within the township since the dissolution of the abbey. One part of the ancient con- ventual buildings was called the mansion or manorial place, where all the rents and revenues due to the monastery were formerly paid : of this, however, there are now no certain remains. It may be stated that there are in different localities of the parish lands of very considerable extent called Accursed Lands. The tenants who held them iu former times had, for irregularities, been thus branded by the conventual house, in consequence of which these lands were de- prived of the privilege of paying tithe, but were mulcted in having to pay what was at the time a larger propor- tional share of lord's rent. They have ever since been free from the payment of tithe. ^ All the lands of the township are now enclosed, iu accordance with the pro- visions of an act of parliament passed in the year 1808. The fields throughout the township are enclosed with hedges of thorn, this parish not possessing the stone fences so common in the other portions of the northern counties. From the period of the dissolution of the ' Th(> manner iu which the monastery tithed au extensive rouge of ground called Acredales was pecuUnr. These Acredales were divided into portions, — say A, B, C, D. The portion A was to be tilled for tln-ee years, B and C during these years being in pasture. The portion B was iu tillage daring the three succeeding years, A and C being in pasture. Then the portion C was to be tilled three years, A and B in the meantime remaining in pasture. Dnring the three respective years in which each of these portions was tilled, titlie was taken only for the latter two years, it being considered from the imperfect ciUtivatiou that the small produce of the tirst year's tillage would not allow the payment of tithe. abbey of Holme Cultram, the crown kept up the em- I baukment along the sea coast until the year 1572, when the parish took charge of these embankments on receiving from the crown a grant, as already stated, of 1 the woods of Wedholme, in East Waver. ! HOLME .4EBEY. I The township of Holme. Abbey comprises an area of j 5,330 acres, and its rateable value is £4,937 10s. Od. j About one-seventh part of the land, or 787 acres, is in j demesne. The landowners, beside the lord of the I manor, are the Eail of Lonsdale, Messrs. George I Harrison, James Losh, J. Rooke, W. Ritson, Richard Jackson, and M. Grayson, all non-resident. The j resident landowners who cultivate their own estates \ are Messrs. John Tordifif, John Grainger, John Steel, I John Jackson, John Steel, Wilham Tordiif, John Steel, John Younghusband, Alfred Jefferson, WiUiam Roper, Amos Hayton, jMungo Glaister, John Farlam, Joseph Backhouse, and S. Johnstone. The estates of the resident proprietors are generally of small extent. The population of the township in 1801 was 590 ; in 1811, 600; in 1821, 758; in 1881, S61 ; in ISII, 808 ; and in 1851, 972 ; the greater portion of whom reside in the village of Abbey Town and the immediate neighbourhood; about 250 reside in the various ham- lets of the township, and the remainder in dispersed form-houses and cottages. The employment of the people is almost entirely agricultural, and the agricul- ture within the township is generally arable. There has not been much inducement hitherto to direct the people to other pursuits. The streams are few and small, and having little fall are not adapted for apijlica- tiou as a motive power. There are no woods nor quarries, nor mines of any kind, to employ labour. The coal-field in the neighbouring parishes of Cross Canonby, Aspatria, and Bolton, does undoubtedly extend into this parish, but this coal, from the natural incHnatiou of the seam, is probably at a considerable depth, and no attempt has ever been made to reach it. The fisheries also on the coast are not productive, iu consequence of the large accumulation of sand in the higher part of the Frith, and do not employ more than a few families. The Port of Silloth, now in course of formation, may induce enter- prising men to open out the coal-field. The people are remarkable for plain, blunt manners, and grave deport- ment ; the first may arise from there never having been a gentleman's family resident among them, and the second may in part be the result of their living and working much alone. There is in general among them a desire to raise themselves in the social scale, and so to 230 ALLERDALE- BELOW- DERWEXT WARD. !nve their children educated. The yeomen are in easy circumstances, and the labouring families enjoy a con- siderable degree of comfort, inasmuch as the population being small for the extent and fruitfulness of the laud, agricultural work, at all seasons of the year, at remu- nerative wages, is easily obtained by them. The effect of which is that there is in general among them domestic cleanliness, although too many of the houses are small and poor, in consequence of the distance and expensive- ness, in times past, of all building materials ; this, how- ever, may be materially rectified, in future years, from the facility of carriage by the Silloth and Carlisle rail- way, which runs through the township and has a station at Abbey Town. Within the memory of persons now living, when the country to the east was unenclosed and without roads, the people here were obliged to go to the distant market of Workington, which is upwards of twenty miles from Abbey Town. In later years, Wigton, six miles distant, has been their market-town, on each Tuesday. Since the opening of the above- named railway, many of the farmers attend the market in Carlisle on each Saturday. The village of Abbey Toym is situated on the east bank of the Waver, six miles west-by-north of Wigton, and seventeen west of Carlisle. It had anciently a market on Saturday. Two fairs are held here in the year, for the sale of cattle and the hiring of servants ; one of these is held on the Tuesday before Whitsuntide, and the other on the 20th of October. In the year 1150, Henry, son of David, king of Scotland, being at that time Prince of Cumberland, founded at Holme Cultram an abbey for monks of the Cistercian Order, endowing it with two-thirds of the manor of Holme Cultram, having given the other third to Alan, son of Waltheof, as a chase for hunting ; this third part Alan soon afterwards gave to the abbey. Some writei-s assert that Alan himself was the founder of the abbey; but from the crown rolls of the time of Edward I. the inference is drawn by other writers that it was founded by Henry I., and that Alan merely restored it from some injuries and increased its revenues. Henry II. becoming possessed of the county of Cum- berland, by the cession of Malcolm of Scotland, took the abbey into his special protection, and having con- lirmed the grant of Holme Cultram and other lands, was recognised by the community as its chief patron and benefactor. Ample revenues were afterwards given to this abbey by various persons.' That the abbots 'Among the benefactors of Uie eoaimimity of Holme Cultram iippear the names of Anthony de Lucy, who fpive them denil wood in his woods of Allerdale, for fuel for ihe nbliey, and coal wood for ibeir forges within Holme Cultram, but not to have coal wood for their iron mines without special license of him or his lieirs. liicbard were regarded wth the greatest consideration by the kings of England seems pretty certain, for in the reigns of Edward I., and his sou, Edward II., they enjoyed the rare privilege of being summoned to parliament, and, though not miired, they received from the crown many exemptions that were not enjoyed by others of their rank. It was in this abbey, in the month of October, 1300, that King Edward I., in person, released the Bishop of Glasgow from his imprisonment, and received his allegiance with much solemnity, in the presence of the Bishop of Carlisle, the abbot, and the French envoys.'' We learn from the Chronicle of Mailros that this abbey was pillaged by the army of Alexander, the Scottish king, in 1210, and again, in 1322, by Robert Bruce, notwith- standing, as Harrison, the Scottish historian, observes, his father's body was there interred. According to the rolls of parliament in or about the j-ear 1383, during an inroad not mentioned by any of our historians, the abbot and convent of Holme Cultram were obliged to pay £200 to the Earl of Douglas to save their monastery from being burnt. Notliing further of importance is recorded of the abbey till the year 1538, when Abbot BorrowJale surrendered it to Henry VIII. ; its revenues being then valued at £427 19s. 3d. clear yearly income. Abbot Borrowdale was made rector of the rectory that followed, instead of receiving a pension. Browne Willis informs us that " the abbey was sur- rendered by Gavin Borrowdale, the last abbot, and twenty-five monks, on the Gth March, 1538, soon after which a pension of £100 per annum was assigned to the said abbot, which it is presumed was . . . ante an. 1553, when there remained only £1 10s. 8d. in charge for annuities, and these following pensions, viz.: — To A. Richards and William Simonson, £5 each ; John Idel, £4 ; Robert Clement, £5 ; John ... £5 : John Wise, £3 Os. 8d. ; Thomas Browne, £4 13s. 4d. ; Richard Patison, £3 Os. 8d. ; Nicholas Piugney, £4 ; Thomas Ireby, Richard Adamson, and William Morton, £2 each ; Robert Banks, £3 Cs. 8d.; AVilliam :Marshall, £1 13s. Id.; Richard Wade, £5; Robert Laugton, £6." After the dissolution the monastic buildings were allowed to go to ruin, and a portion of the nave of the abbey chui-ch, with some other remains, are all that is now left of the ancient structure which the piety of kings, and princes, and nobles endowed, and in which many of the noblest of the land found their last resting-place. There is an ancient building very near - Eymer, vol. ii., p. SOS. de Alneburgb, and William, sou of Simon Sheftliug, lords of Alne- burgh,gave them a iishing at the mouth of the river Alne, and William de Holderness gave ihcm a toft ajid croft in Ahieburgh. Alice de Romeley gave Unee acres of land and a quarry at Aspatria, witli com- mon of pasture for ten oxen, ten cows, one bull, and their produce HOLME CULTRAM PARISH, 231 the parish church, now belonging to the Earl of Lons- dale, and understood to have been part of the residence of the abbots. This building contains some architec- tural details worthy of notice, but it is much injured by partial demolitions, alterations, or iieglect, — or, perhaps, all three combined. There are also other houses at some distance from the church towards the south, which dis- tinctly show in die windows, and archways, and general masonry, that they constituted part of the conventual buildings. Long parallel walls of dormitories, of which the foundations were removed within the present cen- tury to be used as building materials for farm-houses. indicated, moreover, the great extent of the conventual buildings. These buildings were fortified against the incursions of the Scots, and there is still remaining, at a short distance on the north side of the site of the monastery, a portion of a mound, and at its foot a broad wet ditch. The present incumbent has found, within the last few years, on the site of the ancient abbey, several ancient monumental stones, with beau- tiful and elaborate crosses in basso relievo, which are carefully preserved. THE CHURCH. The parish church of Holme Cultrara, like all other churches of the Cistercian Order, is dedicated to the for two years ; also for two horses and forty sheep. Galieni, danghter of Richard de Hevi, gave three acres of arable land at Blencogo, and pasture for one Uandred sheep, twenty-eight cows, and their produce for two years, one bull, and two horses, for maintenance of the infirm jioor; and Morjoiy, daughter of Galieni, gave two bovatcs of land there ; and Adam, son of Dolphm de Lanrigg, half an acre. Thomas -ks, Esq., the younger son of Joseph Gillbanks of the above place, who married Miss Elizabeth Sheffield, was born 28th January, 1780. He went to Jamaica in 1800, and liaving amassed a large fortune as a merchant there, returned, in 1814, to England, when he purchased Whitefield House, Orthwaite Hall, Haltclifle Hall, and other estates in the county of Cumberland, which the present owner has since much im- proved and beautified. He married 7th January, 1810, Mary, eldest daughter of Ralph Jackson, Esq., of Normanby, in Cleveland, Yorkshire, and niece of Col. Jackson, of St. Dorothy, Jamaica, and of the Hon. R. Jackson, lord chief justice of that island, which family has held large possessions there for many generations. This lady, by the sudden death of her cousin, W. Thomas Jackson (son of Col. Jackson, of Jamaica), has succeeded to the great bulk of that gentleman's property ; and by this lady, who survives him, Mr. Gillbanks had issue, one son and two daughters, viz. : — Jackson, now of Whitefield House. Mary EUzabeth married, June 1846, to E. M. Lawrance, M.D., and has issue. Maria Josephine, married, 24th January, 1856, to Rev. Henrv Gough, M.A., fellow of Queen's College, Oxford, and rector of Choi'ltou, Oxfordshire. Mr. Gillbanks was for forty years a most active magistrate, and deputy -lieutenant for the county. He died suddenly on the 3rd February, 1853, and was succeeded by his only son, Jackson Gillbanks, Esq., of Whitefield House, J.P., bom 5th November, 1810; B.A., and LL.B. of St. John's College, Cambridge, a barrister-at-law, patron of the living of Uldale. Arms — Az., five hearts, in saltLre, or, on a chief, arg., a rose, gu., between two trefoils, slipped, vert. Crest — A stag's head, or. Mollo — Honore et vu-tule. The Grange is another seat in High Ireby township. It is a handsome building in the Italian style, and serves as a summer residence to Henry Grainger, Esq., a gentleman engaged in commercial pursuits in Liver- pool, and who has a considerable estate here. KIRKBEIDE PARISH. 247 KIRKBEIDE PARISH. KiRKBRiDE parish is bounded on the east and north by the river Wampool, on the west by the Monk's Dyke, and on the south by Wigton parish. It has no dependent townships, but contains the hamlets of Powhill and Longland's Head. The inhabitants arc principally engaged in agriculture. This parish consists of one township, comprising 1,65A acres. Its population in ISOl was 249 ; in 1811, 208; in 1821,308; in 1831, 383; in 1841,372; and in 18-51,340. The Carhsle and Silloth railway runs through the township. The soil of the ancient land is good, resting on sound clay; the common is inferior land, and some of it peaty. The rateable value of the township is £965. The inhabitants are principally located in the village of Kirkbride and the hamlets above-mentioned ; and generally attend the Carlisle and Wigton markets. The manor of Ivirkbride is parcel of the barony of Wigton, from which it was granted in the reign of Iving John, by Adam, son of Odard, second baron of Wigton, to his second son Adam, who took the name of Kirkbride. It continued in this family for several generations, till a co-heiress of George Kirkbride, the last heir male, brought a moiety to the Dalstons of Dals^on Hall. The other moiety was afterwards sold by another co-heir to the Barou of Wigton, in whose possession it remained till the sixth Earl of Northum- berland gave it to Henry YIII., who granted the same to Thomas Dalston, Esq. After this the whole manor continued in the Dalston family, who held it of the king in eapite by knight's service, and the payment of 13s. 4d. for cornage, 22d. for puture of the sergeants, and IGd. for seawake, etc. An inquisition taken in 1578, informs us that "John Dalston, Esq., holdeth half the manor or town of Kkkbride by homage, fealtie, and suit of court at Wigton, and payeth for cornage, 8s. 4d.; seawake, 6d.; puture. Is. lOid.; and for free rent, 2s.; the rest paid by his tenants." A note to this entry further informs us that " The said John Dalston holdeth the other moiety of Kirkbride together with Ulton now in question as after appeareth." From this document we also learn that " John Briscoe, Esq., holdeth a tenement, or capital messuage, called Whin- uow Hall, by homage, fealtie, and renders per annum Is. The tenants of the town of Kirkbride pay yeai'ly to the lord for cornage 13s. 4d. ; seawake. Is. 4d. ; and for turn-silver, 7s. 6d.; in toto per annum, 22s. 2d. John Dalston, for the reserved upon the moiety of Kirkbride, paieth yeariy at the feasts of St. ^Martin and Pentecost, 7s. lOJd. John Dalston, Esq., above-named, holdeth the other moiety of the manor or town of Kirkbride, and the hamlet called Ulton (as is afore noted) which were parcel of the said barony or demesne, and sold by King Henry YIII. to Thomas Dalston, father of the said John Dalston, and were of the yearly rent of over and besides the free rents of certain freeholders in Ulton aforesaid, amounting to the sum of 33s. 4d. per annum, holden of the said barony, which rents and services of the said freeholders the said John Dalston claimeth and detained by colour of his said letters patent (quo jure ignor.) the rents and services of which freeholders hereafter foUoweth: — Robert Dalston holdeth there a tenement and two oxgangs of land, late William Mor- pith's, by fealtie and suit of court, Ac, and renders per annum 10s. John Kay holdeth a tenement called Gamsey Land, by the same senices, and renders 9s. 2d. Robert Vause holdeth certain tenements and lands by like services, and renders 4s. 6d. John Thompson holdeth two tenements and certain land with other appurtenances by like services, and renders 5 s. Robert Dalston holdeth there a parcel of meadow, sometime John Sparrow's, by the Hke services, and renders 9d. The same Robert holdeth another parcel of meadow, late Thomas Pattinsons, by like services, and renders 9d. John Thompson holdeth there three acres of land, late the lands of John Thompson, by like service, rendering Is. 4d. Cuthbert Grainger and Nicholas Allison holdeth there one parcel of meadow, late Nicholas Brown's, by like services, and renders 6d. The heirs of Robert or Thomas Leclie holdeth there three acres of meadow by hke services, and render per annum Is. 4d." The Dalstons remained the possessors of the manor of Kirkbride till 1704, when Sir George Dalston, Bart., the last of the famOy, sold it to Joseph Wilson, Esq., of Pontefract, by whom it was conveyed to WiUiam Matthews, Esq., of Dykesfield, and of him purchased by the Earl of Lonsdale, in whose family it still continues, the present earl being the possessor of the manorial rights and privileges. The landowners are the Rev. Joseph Hallifax; Robert H. Wills, Esq.; S. and J. Saul, Esqs., of Carhsle; Rev. Joshua Clarke; John Clai-ke, Esq. ; Mrs . Hodgson ; John Wills; Robert Piitson ; Chaiies Lightfoot ; Matthewe Hodgson, Esq. ; John Clarke ; A. P. T. C. Somerset ; with some smaU proprietors. The township was enclosed in the year- 18 1 0. The village of Kirkbride is situated on the south side of the estuary of the Wampool, six miles north-by- west of Wigton. The river is here crossed by a wooden bridge leading from Kirkbride to Whitrigg for general ti-affic, which was erected in 1856-7, at a cost of about iOOO, defrayed by subscription. 248 ALLEKDALE - BELOW- DERWENT WARD. THE CHUBCH. The church, dedicated to St. Bride or Bridget, stands on an acclivity a little east of the village, and is said to have been erected previous to the Xormau Conquest, on the site, and there is little doubt with the materials of the Eoman fort or station, \\-hich formerly stood here. It consists of nave and chancel, and coutains an ancient and beautiful font. The church contains several monu- ments to the Metcalfe and Hallifax families. From an inquisition de jure patronatm, taken in 1341, Tve learn that Sir John de Weston, Kut., was the patron of the rectory of Kirkbride, in right of his wife, the Lady Joan de Wigtou. In 15S0 the patronage was vested in the DaJstous, and continued in that family till the Sir George above-mentioned sold the advowson to the Eev. T. Metcalfe, vicar of St. Margaret's, Leicester. It was subsequently purchased from the trustees of the late Rev. Francis Metcalfe by the Rev. Joseph Hallifax, and is now the property of the present rector. The pai-ish registers extend from 16G2 to the present time. Ivirkbride is a rectory valued in the King's Book at &5, and certified to the governors of Queen Anne's Bounty at £44. It is now worth S,ihO per annum. The tithes have been commuted for £145. Rectors.— Robert de Bromfield, 1341; John de Westerton, 1342 ; Cuthbert Fisher, — ; Robert Allauby, M.A., 1580 ; Giles Hemmerford, 1&S6 ; Nicholas Dean, l.'JSO ; Mr. Hudson, 1643 ; Thomas Lumley, 1680; Henry Hall, 1678 ; John Walker, A.T!., 1717; John Cowper, A.B., 1743; George Gillbanks, 1750; Francis Metcalfe, the elder,1797; Francis Metcalfe, the younger, 1822 ; William Flowers, 1835 ; Joseph Hallifax, the elder, 1847 ; Joseph Hallifax, the younger, 1655. The rectory is a large and commodious edifice, in the Tuscan style of architecture, erected between the years 1790 and 1800, at a cost of £'1,GOO, and commands beautiful and extensive views of the surrounding scenery. In its garden wall is a portable Roman altar, with the inscription, deo belatvcadro peisivs. m. solvit votv M. L. M. The village school is small and poor, but on the whole well attended. There is a meeting house belonging to the Society of Friends. There seems to have been a family or two resident here soon after the formation of that body, but there are none now. Beside the Roman altar just mentioned, and the ancient font constructed in the church, few remains of antiquity are visible in this parish. The church, as above stated, is supposed to occupy the site of a Roman fort or station, the upper and lower moats of which may still be traced on the western side of the sacred edifice. There are, however, no less than three ancient roads, at some depth from the present suiface, one of sand, one of gravel, and one paved. This last is about three feet below the surface; and as far as can be traced they all run from south to north. The paved one goes up to the site of the present church, and was first dis- covered while removing some soil from the churchyard. Roman pottery, in the shape of urns, lamps, vases, and vessels of domestic use, have frequently been found in parts of the churchyard, and in the adjoining land. Some ancient British pottery has also been discovered, though less frequently than Roman, and many Saxon beads of glass, and other ornaments, which may be seen at the rectory. Powhill and Langland's Head are two hamlets in this parish. SEBERGHAM PARISH. This parish is bounded on tho north and north-west by Dalston and Westward, on the south and west by Caldbeck, and on the east by Castle Sowerby. Agriculture is the principal employment of the inhabitants — there is a small tile work on the common. The people are very industrious and clean, and as a general rule in easy circumstances. The soil varies much in quality, some land being let as low as ten shillings an acre, and some as higli as £2 lOs. Carlisle and Wigton are the markets usually attended. Sebergham parish comprises the townships of High Bound and Low Bound, whose united area is 5,890 acres, and rateable value, £3,608 19s. The commons were enclosed in irC5. The parish is intersected by the river Caldew, whose picturesque banks are clothed with wood; and tht small stream, the Shalkbeck, is its boundary for a considerable distance towards the west and north-west. SEBERGHAM uiGH BOUND. stauds, which is a hill or rising ground in the forest of Tho population of this township in 1810 was 434 ; Inglewood, whereof the east and south-east parts were in 1811, 474; in 1821, 505; in 1831, 494; in 1841, woodland and dry ground; but the south, west, and 495; and in 1851, 506. " Sebergham," says Nicholson north-west parts were wet springy ground, covered with and Burn, "was so called from the place where it rushes, which the country people call sitTcs ; and there- SEBEEGHAM PARISH. 249 upon the place was called Sievy-buryh, or Sievy Hill. At the time of the Conquest, it was a great waste and wilderness. Afterwards, in the latter end of King Henry II. 's time, one William Wastall, or de Waste- dale, began to enclose some part of it. He was an hermit, and lived there to an extreme old age, by the labour of his hands, and the fruits of trees. He came hither in Henry I.'s time, and died about the end of King John's reign, or in the beginning of Henry Ill's. King John granted him the hill Scbergham, and he left it to the priory of Carlisle," who also possessed the manor of Langholme, in this parish, by the gift of John de Sebergham. These estates are now vested in the dean and chapter as the successors of the prior and convent. The manor of Sebergham belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, as parcel of the forest of Ingle- wood. The manor of WameU, in this parish, was given by Henry II. to Andrew de Hercla, after whose attainder it was granted to Ralph Lord Dacre. William Lord Dacre gave it in exchange to John Denton, Esq., of Denton Hall, in Exchange for Denton, in the year 1496. His immediate descendant of the same name sold it in the year 1774, to the ancestor of the present Earl of Lonsdale. The old mansion of WarneU Hall, an Elizabethan structure, much dilapidated, now serves as a farm-house. It had formerly one of the large square towers common to many of the Cumberland mansions, and intended for defence against the inroads of the Scots. The family of Denton of WameU sprung from Denton in Gilsland — their pedigree was certified at Dugdale's visitation in 1665, as follows: — Seiitmt of S'larncll. Thomas de Denton lived in the reigns of Edward III. and Eichard II. Adam de Denton died 10 Henry IV. Thomas Denton, Esq., married Alice, daughter of Tliomas Moore. Eichaed Denton, Esq., of Gilsland, married Jane, natural daughter of Sir Humphrey Dacre, Knt., Lord Dacre of Oilsland, and died in 2 Eichard III. John Denton, Esq., of Denton Hall, married Agnes Sithe, and died in 27 Henry VII. Thomas Denton, Esq., of Wamell, died in G EHzabeth. THOM.ts Denton, Esq., of Wamell, died in C James, without issue, and was succeeded by his brother's son, Thomas Denton, son of George, by his wife, a daughter of the Lascelles family, in co. York. This Thomas died unmar- ried, and was succeeded by his brother, Henry Denton, who married Elizabeth Oglethoi-p, and died about 1636. Thomas Denton, his successor, was a captain of foot under the Earl of Newcastle, in the service of Charles I., and died of tho wounds he received at Hull in 1643. His wife was Lettice, daughter of John Lowgher, Esq., co. Stafford. Thomas Denton, Esq., of Warnell, barrister-at-Iaw, and 27 recorder of Carlisle and Appleby, married Lettice, daughter of Thomas Vachell, Esq., of Cowley, co. Berks. His successor was Thomas Denion, Esq., who married Margerj', daughter of Mr. Crackenthorp, of N'ewbiggin, in Westmoreland. His sod, Thomas Denton, Esq., married a Miss PattinsoD, of Penrith, and died in 1 730, when John Denton, Esq., of Wamell Hall, succeeded him. The latter married Mary, daughter of Mr. Thomas Wilkin, of Broagh Sowerby, in Westmoreland ; and by her had issue Thomas and Barbara. Mr. Denton, in 1774, sold Warnell to Sir James Losrther, Bart., afterwards Earl of Lonsdale. Arms — Arg., two bars gn., in cliief three cinque foils, sa. The little manor of Hartrigg, which belonged formerly to the Dalstons, is now the property of J. P. Fletcher, Esq., who also owns Sebergham Castle, a large farm- house about two miles west of the village. A court leet Ls held annually here in September. The principal landowners are the Earl of Lonsdale ; J. P. Fletcher, George Dixon, George Gill Mounsey, F. L. B. Dykes, James Heysham, and William Denton, Esqs. ; and Messrs. William Helme, John Studholme, James Connell, John Steele, Hugh McAlpin, and Messrs. Lee. The village of Sebergham, or Sebergham Church Town, occupies a pleasant situation near the river Caldew, two and a half miles uorth-by-east of Hesket Newmarket, eight miles south-east of Wigton, and ten miles south-by-west of Carlisle. the CHtJECH. Sebergham church, which is dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, is a plain edifice, consisting of nave, chancel, vestry at south-west corner, built by the pre- sent incumbent, and western tower. It was repau-ed during the incumbency of the Piev. J. Heysham, now vicar of Lazonby, Penrith. Its foundation dates from the reign of King John, and it is supposed to occupy the site of the cell of the hermit, William Wastell, above-mentioned. Bishop Nicholson, in his MS. " Account of the Present State of the Churches, Par- sonages, and Vicarage Houses, Glebe Lands, &c." in 1703, says of this church, " I found the outside in good repair, and the inside pretty tolerable. The school- master teaches in the west end ; and none but suiters come near the communion table, which is railed in. In the quire are the seats of Sir. Denton, of Wamell ; Mr. Crosby, Mr. Aglionby (for Baxter's tenement), and Mr. Hill, of Ball Bridge. Here is also, against the south wall, a freestone monument, with the following inscrip- tion (in has reUef) on the side : — ' Cumbria Wamellum Thomam deplorat ademptum Deuton, qui si quidem Deltaton alter erat nempe pius, Sapiens, ex omni parte Quadratus qualem vix hodie secula nostra ferunt.' And a httle lower: 'Molliter ossa cubant; mens aurea vivit Olympo, vivet in ^Eternum Chara Deo soboles.' At the 250 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. end, above his coat of arms, ' Thomas Denton de Wamell, Armg' in Artibus M' et dignrc memoria; octaginta expletis An. felicitcr Obijt. 1. die Aprilis A° Dui. ICIO.' " The bishop adds, " the churchyard is miserably fenceless." The living is now a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the impropriators, the dean and chapter of Carhslc, and is worth about £170 per annum, arising from tithes and glebe ; the value of the former being about £110, and of the latter about £60. The tithes were commuted in 1771 for a fixed quantity of wheat, viz., 207 Winchester equal to 89 Carlisle bushels ; and in the same year a modus, or prescription of £9 Os. Hid. was settled by an act of parliament to be paid in lieu of the hay tithes and com tithes of the ancient land, to the curate. The parish register com- mences in 1694. Incchbents. — Samuel Kelph, ITld ; Thomas Denton, 17fi8 ; William Sheepshanks, 1777 ; ■, 1808; John Lynn, 1818 ; John Hejsham, 1823 ; Clement Moody, ISlfi ; N. F. Y. Kemble, 1852. No incumbents resident from 1768 until John Hcysham in 1823. John Stubbs was curate to Thomas Denton and AVilliam Sheepshanks from 1771 to 1805; and was succeeded by John Dodgson, in 1805 ; by George Harker, in 1808 ; C. Thompson, in 1812; J. Lowthian, 1810 ; J. Irving, in 1813; who remained until Mr. Heyshara came into residence in 1823. The present parsonage house was erected on the site of an old one in 1773. It is an edifice without any pretensions to architectural beauty, but has been much improved by the late and present incumbents. There are two parish schools, but without endow- ment ; they are supported by quarter pence. One is situated at Sebergliam Church Town, and the other at nigh Weltou. Average number of children ia attend- ance at the two schools about ninety. Sebergham Circulating Library and Heading Koom, established by the present incumbent and others in .lanuary of the present year (1858), is in a prosperous condition. It is supported by quarterly payments of ninepence to the library, and Is. 3d. to the reading room. It is held in the school-house in Sebergham Church Town. Sebergham Bridge is a hamlet in this township, dehghtfully situated, on both sides of the bridge, which here crosses the Caldew, and which was built in 1689 by Alexander Denton, Esq., justice of common pleas. Bell Bridge, about a mile lower down the river, consists of one lofty arch, erected in 1772, on the site of a previous one, which wivs swept away by a flood in 1770. Newlands and Wamell are two other hamlets in the township, the former one mile north-east of Hesket Newmarket, and the latter one and half miles west-by- north of Sebergham. At a place called Iron Gill, near Wamell, is a chalybeate spring. Brown Top and Monkhouse IIUl are also hamlets in High Bound township. Every farm-house in the parish almost has a distinct name. There is one called Sebergham Castle, hanng, however, nothing worthy of the name but a modern castellated frontage. Wamell Hall was formerly the seat of the Dentons, an old Cumberland family, the representative of which is William Denton, Esq., who lives near Keswick, and is unmarried. There are two com mills in the parish, one at Seber- gham Bridge, the other is called Crookholrae ]Mill. The people here seem to have no amusements. They are never seen playing at cricket, quoits, football, or any of the games so prevalent in the south of England. They are singularly devoted to the public-house. A beHef in supernatural appearances, and a dread of passing the churchyard at night, still lingers : a custom also prevails of sitting at night with a corpse. The incumbent informs us that he never lived in a place so barren of traditions, or documents of local interest. No one seems to have collected any informa- tion interesting to the historian, the antiquarian, or the geologist. The Kev. Josiah Relph, " the past'ral bard of Cauda's Vale," author of a volume of miscellaneous poems in the Cumberiand dialect, was born at Sebergham Church Town in 1712. He was educated at Appleby School and Glasgow University, and was for many years curate and schoolmaster in his native village. He died unmar- ried, in the prime of life (it is said from actual want of the necessaries of life) June 17, 1743, at the jilace of his nativity, and is buried in Sebergham churchyard. The Rev. Thomas Denton, another of the celebrities of Sebergham, was bom here in 1724, and was educated by Mr. Relph. Like him, he pubhshed a volume of poems, besides which he edited the supplementary volume to the last edition of the Biographical Dic- tionaiy. He died in June, 1777, aged 53 years. SEBERGHAM LOW BOUND. This township contained in 1801, 308 inhabitants : in 1811, 307 ; in 1820, 338 ; in 1831, 340 ; in 1841, 358; and in 185), 349.' The hamlets in Sebergham Low are High Welton, the most considerable hamlet in the parish, eight miles south-by-west of Carlisle : and Nether Welton, portion of which is in Dalstou parish. There is a parish school at High Welton. Borrans Hill, the seat of James Heysham, Esq., is in this town- ship, two miles from the parish church. It is a hand- some structure, in a pleasant situation, overlooking the banks of the Caldew. > For landowners, &c., see Sebergham High, THURSBY PAEISH. 251 THURSBY PARISH. Thtrsby is bounded on the north by Aikton parish, on the west and south by that of Wigton, on the south- east by Westward, and on the east by Dalston and Orton. The soil, which consists principally of gravel, with a mbcturo of loam, is tolerably fertile, except on the eastern side, where a cold clayey land prevails. Its situation is rather low, along the river Wampool, where quantities of reed grow, especially on the swamp called Cardew Mires. Thursby parish comprises the townships of Thursby, Crofton, and Parton-with-Micklethwaite. The rateable value of the whole parish is £3,541 . Agriculture is the principal employment of the inhabitants, and Wigton and Carlisle are the markets usually attended. in the 13th century, erected in 184G, on the site of the old church, which is said to have been built by David I. of Scotland.' The* funds for its consti-uction were raised by a parochial rate of 3s. 6d. iu the pound, aided by i.JOO left by the late Sir John Brisco. The cost of the bells was defi-ayed by a separate rate. The interior of the church is neatly fitted up for the requirements of public service, according to the rites of the Church of England. There are four marble monuments to members of the Brisco family, whose last resting place is here. The old font is preserved in the present church. The benefice was a rectory, till about the year 1469, when Sir Robert it to the prior and convent of Carlisle; THURSBY. The township of Thursby comprises an area of 1,382 acres. Its population in 1801 was 242; in 1811, 272 ; in 121, 355; in 1831, 373; in 1S41, 390; and in 1851, 411 persons, resident in Thursby village, Shalk- foot hamlet, and a number of single houses scattered over the township. The manor of Thursby was given by Alan, second lord of Allerdale, to Herbert le Brun, who thereupon assumed the local name, styling himself de Thursby. His female heir brought the inheritance to Guido Boyvill, a younger son of the Levington family. This Guido had issue William, who with his brother John, were knights and foresters iu Allerdale from Shalk to Ellen, which was the west ward of Inglewood Forest — the ofiice of foresters descended to them from the Herbert just mentioned. In 1299, Sir WiUiam Boyvill, Knt., held the same, and seven years later Sir John de BoyviU, Knt., occurs. Soon after this we find Thursby in the possession of Robert de Ogle, whose son Thomas de Ogle, in 1364, being then under age, presented a rector to the church of Thursby. In 1469 it was found by inquisition that Sir Robert Ogle, Knt., then held the manor of Thursby, with the advowson of the church there, of the Lord Dacre or of his barony of Burgh, by Imights' service. The manor came after- wai-ds to the Dacres, who held the same united to and as parcel of their barony of Burgh ; and among the knights' fees in 1543 ftemp. Henry VIII.), William Lord Dacre held Thursby of the king by knights' service, and 25s. SJd. cornage. From that period it has continued to be held by the lords paramount of Burgh barony, and is now the property of the Earl of Lonsdale. The landowners are Su- Wastel Brisco, Bart.; John R. Wilson, Esq., J. P.; and a few resident yeomen. The village of Thursby is pleasantly situated on the Carlisle and Wigton road, six miles south-west from CarUsle, and five miles east-north-east from AVigton. THE CncHCH. Thursby church, dedicated to St. Andrew% is situated ou an elevation a Uttle west of the village. It is a beautiful edifice, in the style of architecture prevalent but IS now a vicarage in the patronage of the dean and chapter of the diocese. It is valued iu the King's Book at £11 10s.; its present value is about £160, exclusive of upwards of twenty-one acres of glebe. The vicar, by prescription, is entitled to all the small tithes of the parish, and the great and small tithes of the two townships of Parton and ilicklethwaite, and Crofton 1 Bishop Nicolson, in 1703, says " I found tile church in tolerable good order ; well paved, and pretty well seated. Mr. Brisco's aisle in much the worse condition, upon props and ready to fall. He pro- mises to put it into a better state immediately. Que of the beUs broken and the chest without a lock npon it I complained to Mr. Waite, the vicar, that I had seen one of Mr. Oley's books ( Hammond on the Psalms) at Rose; and upon enquu^ had found that himself had lent it, contrary to the engagement of his predecessor and his own present obligation, to Mr. Wybergh. He confessed his fault in it; and promised that the hst of books should be forthwith entered in the parish register, and the will of the donor more exactly observed hereafter. Foreseeing that I might possibly meet with the like failures in those other parishes that ai-e concerned in this benefaction, I desh-ed my brother, and secretary, at my return, to look out the papers relative to it ; which he cUd. And they have beeu transcribed :— Books given to ten poor vicarages (Crosby-on-Eden,.Isell, Dalston, Thursby, Wigton, Askham, Ainstable, Deerham, Crosby-Ravens- worth, Burgh-upon-Sands) by Mr. Barnabas Oley, 1685. Dr. Ham- mond's Works, i vols, folio; Bishop Andrews' Sermons, folio; Mr. Jfede's Works, folio ; Bishop Sanderson's Sermons, folio ; Bishop Sanderson's Nine Cases of Conscience, 8vo ; Bishop Pearson on the Creed, foUo; Bishop Usher's Body of Divinity, folio ; the works of the author of the Whole Duty of Man, folio; Bishop Sparrow's Rationale, Svo ; Bishop Sparrow's Collection of Canons, 4to ; Dr. Cave's Primitive Christianity ; Herbert's Country Parson, 8vo ; Izaafc Walton's Lives, Sto." The bishop then gives the articles of agree- ment by the several vicars who received these books for the use of themselves. Some of the parishes received instead of Dr. Hammond's Works, Dr. Jackson's Works, 3 vols, folio, and Dr. Towerson's Works, 1 vol. folio. 252 ALLERDALE- BELOW- DEKWENT WARD. and Whinnow. lu 1838 the tithes were commuted for a yearly rent charge of £354, of which £150 (the rectorial tithes of Thursby township) are leased by the dean and chapter. The parish register commences in 1680. Rectors.— William, 1175; Henry de Burton, 1230 ; Richard (le Abinden, 129S; William de Swindon, 1305; Robert de Boyvill, 131B; Robert Bix, 1304; Robert Paye, 136G; John Thorsyby, U65. ViCAEs. — Richard Walles, alias Brandling, 1570; Thomas Monk, 1570; William Walles, ICOO ; Christopher Peale, 1622; John Hamilton, 1062; Richard Savage, 1673; Thomas Stalker, 1080; George Theobalds, 1681 »Matthew Preston, 16S5; Joseph White,lC99; John Story, 1720; Robert Wardale, 1731 ; Andrew Holliday, 1703; Thomas Nicolson, 1T71 ; Nicholas Robinson, 1774; John Brown, 1788; Joseph Pattinson, 1B03; W. T. Brigs, 1813; James Webster Huntley, 1830. The vicarage house is a good residence contiguous to the church. Thursby School is a handsome stone building, erected in 1740, rebuilt in 1848. The only endowment which this school has acquired is from Thomas Thomlinson, Esq., a native of this parish, who died in America, and by his will, dated 16th April, 1798, bequeathed the residue of his personal property, not otherwise disposed of, to the schools of Thursby, Bromfield, Uldale, and Wigton, to be divided equally amongst them, and to become a part of the funds of those respective schools. The sum of £354 was received as the share of the testator's personal estate, bequeathed to the school at Thursby. It is placed in the hands of Sir Wastel Brisco, one of the trustees, who pays four per cent yearly interest (£14 3s. 4d.) to the master, who, in respect thereof teaches ten poor children at a low quarterage. It is under government inspection, and has an average attendance of fifty children. CHAEITIES. Thomlinson s Charity for the Poor. — The Thomas Thomhnson mentioned above also in the same year bequeathed to the poor of Thursby, Uldale, and Wigton — to the first-mentioned parish £160, and to the two last-mentioned parishes £60 each, to be dis- tributed by the minister and churchwardens for the time being of the respective parishes, amongst the most industrious and deserving objects, and in such manner that their ordinary allowances from the said parishes (if any there should be) should not be lessened thereby. £155 was received for the legacy left to this parish, after the payment of expenses. The interest of this sum, amounting to £7 15s.Jper annum, is distributed annually amongst six or seven poor indus- trious parishioners, as directed by the testator. Gibsons Charity. — Thomas Gibson, by will, dated ]4th November, 1798, gave to the poor of Thursby parish £30 to be divided on the Christmas-day after his decease, as the churchwardens should think proper. He also gave to the industrious poor of the said parish £5 for ever, on the said Christmas-day. The testator died in 1800, leaving personal property insufficient for the payment of the debts and legacies which he had charged thereon, a suit in chancery was in consequence instituted against his e.\ecutors, by the different persons who claimed any interest in his effects. In the course of the cause it was referred to the master to take an account of the testator's personal estate, and to appor- tion the assets according to the amount of the different legacies ; and he was further directed to have the legacy of £5 per annum to the poor of Thursby valued at a gross sum. On the 11th July, 1803, the master reported that there was due to the parish of Thursby, for the legacy of £30, with interest £32 6s. 8d.; for their legacy of £5 with interest, according to a valuation made thereof, £125 ; in respect of which be approved of the following apportionment: — For the former, £17 2s. 7d.; for the latter, £66 4s. 7d. ; total, £78 7s. 2d. The amount of both these legacies was directed by the court to be laid out in the purchase of stock in the three per cent consols, which was accord- ingly done. In the year 1817, the stock was sold out by the trustees, and the produce being £107, was placed in private hands at five per cent interest. By this measure the interest was increased from £4 12s. to £5 7s. per annum, which is given away annually by the minister and churchwardens to about fourteen or fifteen poor industrious persons residing in the parish, whether they are settled parishioners or not. John Studholme, of Moor End, a celebrated essayist, was born in this parish. Evening Hill is a hamlet in this township. Here is the residence of John Knubiey Wilson, Esq., lieut.- col. of the Cumberland Militia. It is a large mansion in the Ehzabethan style, erected about twenty-four years ago, by its present proprietor, and commands some beautiful views of the surrounding country. Moor End and Meal House are also hamlets in Thursby township. CIIOFTON. Crofton township occupies the centre of the parish, and contains 975 acres. The number of inhabitants in 1801, was 69; in 1811, 58; in 1821, 65; in 1831, 106; in 1841, 80; and in 1851, 90, living dispersedly in single houses, and in the hamlet of Whinnow. The first recorded possessor of the manor of Crofton is Sir Gilbert, son of Gilbert de Duudraw, who lived in the time of King John. He gave a parcel of Crofton THIIRSBY PARISH. 263 to the hospital of St. Nicholas, at Carlisle, and bound that land to grind at his mill at Crofton. He had daughters, co-heirs ; one of whom, Ada, was married to Stephen de Crofton; after whom there was John de Crofton, Robert de Crofton, John de Crofton, and Clement de Crofton, who died in 1369-70, and was succeeded by his son. Sir John de Crofton, whose daughter and heir was married about 1390 to Isold Brisco, of Brisco, whereupon Crofton came into the possession of the Brisco family, who have continued to hold it to our own time. Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart., being the present lord of the manor and owner of the township. Crofton Hall, the beautiful seat of Sir Wastel Brisco, occupies a delightful situation on the north bank of the Wampool, about four miles east-by-nortli from Wigton, and one mile west from the parish church. It has been considerably enlarged and improved during recent years, by its present proprietor. At a little distance from the hiJl is a conical mount of considerable size, bearing the name of Torquiu. It is clothed with wood, and is said to have been the residence of two gigantic brothers. Whinnow, a hamlet in this township, is three and a quarter miles east-north-east of Wigton. Many antiquities have been found in this township, amongst others, several old coins, one of which had thp. arms of England and France, on a shield, with the legend E. D. G. Eosa sine spina, on the obverse; on the reverse, Civitas Loudon. gristo of Crafion |)all. The surname of this family was originally De Birk- skeugh, from their abode being at Birkskeugh, or Birkswood, near Newbiggin, in a lordship belonging to the priory of Carlisle, a large portion of which estate is still in their possession. Isold Beisco obtained the manors of Crofton, 'miinnow, and Dundraw, with Margaret, his wife, daiigliter and heir of Sir John Crofton, Knt., of Crofton, and was succeeded by his son, Cheistophee Bbisco, of Crofton. It appears by an arbitra- ment between the prior of Carlisle and this Christopher, con- cerning the manor of Brisco, that the said manor should remain to the prior and his successors, paying to the said Christopher one hundred marks ; and that the capital messuage, with the woods for building, should remain to the said Christopher and his heirs. This Christopher kept fourteen soldiers at Brisco- thorn-upon-Esk. He was takeu prisoner at the burning of Wigton ; and on that and similar occasions was forced to mort- gage a considerable port of Ms estate. He was succeeded by his son, KoEEET Beisco, of Crofton, who married Isabel, daughter of William Dykes, of Warlhole, by whom he had issue, I. Thomas, a priest. II. Robert, who succeeded bis father. III. Isold, who served against the Saracens, and died a hermit. IV. Kdward Brisco, of Westward, from whom the families of Westward and Aldenham, co. Hertford, are descended. V. Alexander Brisco, from whom are descended the Briscos of Yarwell, co. Northampton ; and two daughters, SyUi, mar- ried to Richard Browu ; and Susan, married to Robert Ellis, ofBotliiU. EoBEET Brisco, of Crofton, second son of the last Robert, married Catharine, daughter and sole heir of Clement Skelton, of Petteril Wray, and had isiue. Ke was succeeded by his son, John Brisco, of Crofton, who married Janet, daughter of Thomas Salkeld, Esq., of Corby. Richard Brisco, of Crofton, son of John, married a daughter of Leigh, of Frisington, by who^n he had issue Robert and Leonard ; the latter of whom had a son, Robert, who married the heiress of Coldhall, in whose posterity that inheritance con- tinued for four generations, when that branch became extinct. Robert Bbisco, of Crofton, son and heir of Richard, was slain at the battle of Solway Moss ; in reward of whose services, Henry YIII. remitted the wardship of his infant son for the benefit of the widow and the said infant. John Brisco, of Crofton, son and heir of Robert, married Anne, daughter of AVilliam Musgrave, Esq., of Hayton. He purchased Leigh's part of the manor of Orton, in Cumberland, of Sir Wilfrid Lawson and Maud, his wife, late wife of Thomas Leigh, of Isell ; and another third part of Thorn as Blennerhasset, of Carlisle. He was succeeded by his son and heir, John Beisco, of Crofton, who married Mary, daughter of Sir Thomas Brathwaite, of Burneshead, and by her had sixteen children, viz., tea sons and six daughters. I. Thomas, who died in infancy. II. Thomas, who also died iu infancy. III. WiLLiA.\i, his successor. IT. John Brisco, of Wampool, who married Judith, a daughter of Bewley. V. Edward, a merchant in London, who married a daughter of • Tolsou, Esq., of Bridekii'k, and died without issue. TI. Richard, who died young. VII. Thomas, who died iu infancy. VIII. Christopher, who died in Ireland, unmarried. Lx. Francis, a captain of horse in the civil wars, who died unmarried. X. Nazareth, who died in his travels beyond the sea, immarried. I. Jane, who died unmarried. II. Dorothy, married to Sir John Pousonby, of Hale, colonel of a regiment in the civil wars, who went over into Ireland with Cromwell, and settled there ; and was ancestor of the Earls of Besborough. III. Grace, married to Clement Skelton, of Peltentwray. IV. Mary, who died young. V. Mary, married to the Rev. Joseph Nicolson, father (by her) of William Nicolson, Lord Bishop of Carlisle. TI. Agnes, married to William Bayson, of Dalston. William Bkisco, of Crofton, third son and heir of John, married twice. By his first wife, Susannah, daughter of Sir Randal Crantield, he had issue one son, who died young. By his second wife, Susannah, daughter of Francis Brown, merchant and alderman of London, he had issue, I. John, who succeeded him. rr. William, a merchant in London, who died without issue. UI. Thomas, who married Jane, daughter of Lancelot Fletcher, Esq., of Tallantire, and widow of Major Crisp, by whom he had issue. John Brisco, of Crofton, eldest son and heir of William, married Mercy, daughter of WiUiam Johnson, of Kibblesworth, in county Durham, alderman of Newcastle-on-Tyne, and by her had issue, I. William, who died unmarried. 25 1 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DER'iN'ENT WARD. n. Joux, his Ul. Tbonias, who died unmniried. VI Nathaniel, who also died uumarried. V. Richard, vi. Henry. I. Margaret, who married George Longstaff, Esq. II. Susaiina, who married Rev. David Bell, rector of Orton and Aspatrin. in. Abigail, married to Henry Buseo, of Backborough, in IV. Mary. He was succeeded by hi^ second sou, Jons BRisco,Esq.,ofCroftou, who married Catherine, daughter of Sir Richard Musgrave, of Hayton, and by her had issue, 1. Richard, who married a daughter of Lamplugh, of Lamplugh, aud died before his father, without issue. II. John, who succeeded his fatlier. III. William, rector of Dissington. IV. Musgrave, a captain in the army. V. James, collector of customs at Beaumaris. VI. Wastel, who went to Jamaica. vn. Ralph, who married Dorothy, daughter of the Rev. Jonathan Rowland. I. Dorothy, mamed to Richard Lamplugh, Esq., of Ribton. II. Catherine, married to John Holme, of Carlisle, attorney-at-law. Mr. Brisco was succeeded by his secoud son, The Rev. John Bkisco, of Crofton Hall, rector of Orton and vicar of Aspatria, who married Catherine, daughter of John Hylton, Esq., of Hylton Castle, and had issue, I. John, his successor. II. Richard, an ofScer in the army, killed in Germany. III. Horton, colonel E. I. Co.'s service. IV. William Musgrave, an officer in the army. V. James, in holy orders, rector of Orton. I. Dorothy, married to Jacob Morlaud, Esq. He was succeeded, at his decease, by his eldest son, John Baisco, Esq., of Crofton Hall, who was created a baronet, 11th July, 1782. Sir John married Caroline Alicia,i daughter of Gilbert Fane Fleming, Esq., by Lady Camilla Bennet, his wife, sister of Chai-les, 4th Earl of Tankerville, and by her (who died 37th December, 1823) he had I. Wastel, his successor. II. Fleming John, bom in 1781. I. Camilla Carolme. u. Caroline. III. Augusta. IV. Emma. He died 27th December, 1805, and was succeeded by his eldest son. Sir Wastei. Brisco, Baronet, of Crofton Hall, bom in 1778, married 18th November, 1808, Miss Sarab Lester, and has had issue, I. Robert, bom 17th September, 1808, married 10th July, 1832, Anne, third daughter of George Rinimington, Esq., of Tyneficld House, county Cumberland, and has issue, I. Musgrave Horton, born 11th August, 1833. u. Robert George, born 7th September, 183(5. III. Wastel, bom 2flth September, 1838. IV. Fleming, bom 20th April, 181-0. v. Arthur Hyllon, bom INth September, 1817. VI. Alfred, boni 3rd April, 18.1 1 . I. Annie Camilla, ii. Ada Susan. III. Ella. IV. Frances Dykes. II. Hylton Harvey, bom 24th March, 1810. > Her sister, Camilla Annabella, married Edward Cary, Esq., and was motlier of the present George Stanley Carey, Esq., of FoUatou Park, Devon. III. Wastel, bom 20th October, 1812, died in July, 1830. Creation.— Ulh July, 1782. Arms.— Arg., three greyhounds, courant, in pale, Crest.— A greyhound, courant, sa., hare. PARTON AND MIOELEIHWAITE. This towuship comprises an area of 027 acres. It coataiued in 1801, 98 inhabitants ; in 1811, 110 ; in 1821, 95 ; in 1831, 85 ; in 1841, 104 ; and in 1851, 90 ; who principally reside in the hamlets of Partou and Micklethwaite. The manor of Parton which, besides Parton aud Micklethwaite, includes Nealhouse in Thursby town- ship and Cardewlees in Dalston parish, was anciently held by a family who took their name from the place. From this family it was transferred by marriage to the Mansels, one of whom, Richard Mansel, married the heiress of the Partons, and by her had a son and heir, John Mansel, who sold this manor to Robert de Mul- caster, who granted the same, in the reign of Henry III., to Robert de Grinsdale. This Robert de Grins- dale had issue Gilbert, who had issue Alan and Robert. Alan had two sons, Thomas and Henry, who both died v.-ithout issue, when Parton fell to their sister Margaret, who gave it to Robert de Roos, her second husband, whose nephew and heir, Richard Roos, sold it to John CarUel, incumbent of Kirklaud, aud his nephew Robert, son of Robert Carliel, sold it to William Denton, son and heir of John Denton, of Cardew, in whose family it continued till George Denton, of Cardew, sold the manor to Sir John Lowther iu 1086, and it is now possessed by his descendant, the Earl of Lonsdale.' In 1073, the John Denton just mentioned sold to the tenants, for 01 years' ancient rent, about £330, all rents, fines, heriots, carriages, boon -days, duties, services, aud demands whatsoever ; reserving only one penny rent to be paid at Martinmas yearly, and suit of court, royalties, escheats, and all other matters belonging to the lordship. He also granted them liberty to cut wood for their own use, and to get stones within their own grounds, or the wastes, for their houses and fences. Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart., John Addison, Esq., Thomas Ismay, Esq., and John Hewson, Esq., are the principal landowners. The village of Parton occupies a pleasant situation, two miles north-north-east of Wigton. Micklethwaite is a hamlet in this township, on the road between Wig- ton and Carlisle, two miles north by east of the former place. 1 This must have been the estate in Thuraby, mentioned in tlie Cbronic^le of Lauercost, as given by Edward II. to Sir Richard Denton, for his good ser\'iees iu taking Sir Andrew de Hercla prisoner, in the Castle of Cailisle. See pages 88, S!». TOTtPENlTOW PAEISH. 255 TORPENHOW PARISH. The parish of Torpenhow lies on the south side of the river Ellen, and is about sue miles in length from north to south, by two and a half miles in breadth. It is bounded on the north by the river, on the west by Plumbland, on the south by Isell, and on the east by Ireby. The soil towards the north-west is of a sharp gravelly nature, and in the other parts a strong loam, cold clay, or limestone earth prevails, producing in general good crops of wheat, oats, barley, &c. Limestone is found here in abundance. The parish includes the four townships of Bewaldeth and Suittlegarth, Blennerhasset and Kirkland, Bothel and Threapland, and Torpenhow and Whitrigg, whose united area is 9,070 acres. The inhabitants attend the Wigton and Cockermoutti markets. TOUPEXHOW AND WHITRIGG. The rateable value of this township is £1,319. The population in 1801 was 210; in 1811, 263: in 1821, 256; in 1831, 317; in 1841, 31.5; and in 1851, 349. Torpenhow was enclosed in 1808, under the provisions of an act passed in the previous year. The manor of Torpenhow was given by Alan, son of Waltheof, to his brother-in-law, Ughtred, son of Fergus, lord of Galloway, to be held by him and his heirs by homage, covnage, and other services. Philip de Valoniis held it in the reign of Henry II., in right of his wife, who held the same of Pieginald Lucy, and Amabil, his wife, lord of the moiety of AUerdale. In the time of King John it was held by Robert Estoteville, brother to Nicholas Estoteville, lord of Liddell. In 1247, William, son of William de Ulfby, gave three carucates of land here to Eobert de Mulcaster, and held five parts of the same of Richard Brun ; the other sixth part, which he joined to the manor of Bothel, he held of the lord of Liddell, heir of Estoteville. The five parts, just mentioned, descended to the Mulcasters, and from them to the Tilliols, one of whose co-heirs brought the same to the Moresbys. " The heir general of the Moresbys," say Nicolson and Bum, " was married to Weston, Knevet, and Vaughan. Accordingly in the 35 Henry YIII. (1543-4) it is found that Henry Knevet and Anne his wife, in right of the said Anne, held the manor and town of Torpenhow of the king in capite, by the service of 24s. comage, 6|d. seawake, and puture of the Serjeants. Afterwards, her third husband, Vaughan, joined with her in levying a fine, and thereby conveyed the manor of Torpenhow unto James Salkeld and John Appleby." This estate has passed with Whitehall, in the parish of AUhallows, and is now the property of John W. Charlton, Esq. The paramount manor of Whitrigg was, in ] 804 or 1805, adjudged to belong to Mr. Charlton, who, at the time of the enclosure, had a composition for his manorial rights. This manor is at present held by John W. Chariton, Esq. A subordinate manor of the same name, which passed with one of the co-heiresses of the TilHol family to that of ColviUe, and was after- wards held by the Skeltons, of Armathwaite, is said to have been purchased of the latter by Su: Gilfrid Lawson, in 1 712, and has since passed with the Isell estate. It is now held by Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart. The prin- cipal landowners in the township are Sir Wilfrid Law- son, Bart. : Sur Henry R. Vane, Bart. ; Henry Eailton, Esq.; George Moore, Esq.; William Thornburu, Esq.; John ThiriwalJ, Esq. ; Mr. Thomas Plaskett, and Miss Moore. The village of Torpenhow occupies a pleasant situa- tion, a short distance from the Cockermouth road, about seven miles south-south-west of AVigton, and eight and a half miles north-by-east of Cockermouth. THE CHTJBCH. Torpenhow church, dedicated to St. Michael, is an ancient structure, containing some good specimens of Norman architecture, — the great arch is encircled with chevron mouldings. The capitals of the half pillars on each side are remarkably ornamented ; one of the sides being foi-med by an assemblage of gi-otesque heads, the other by human figures, with interlaced arms. The church of Torpenhow was given by Sibella de Valoniis and Eustachius Estoteville to the prioress and con- vent of Eossdale in Yorkshire, to whom it was appro- priated ; but by an award made in the year 1290, by Bishop Irton, the glebe, &c., of Torpenhow, and the great tithes of Torpenhow, Threapland, Aldei-seeugh, Applewray, Snittlegai-th, Bellasis, and Bewaldeth, were assigned to the vicar for the maintenance of three priests and one^sub-deacon, one of the said priests to assist the vicar in all parochial ofiices, another to cele- brate, daily, the mass of the Blessed Virgin, and another to say mass for the dead, and for the prosperity of the bishop and his successors. Some of these tithes were granted by Queen Ehzabeth, in 1562, to Cicely Pickrell, and the remainder in 1574 to John Sonkey and Percival Gunson. At the enclosure, which was made in 1808, about 650 acres were allotted in heu of all tithes ; those of Torpenhow and Bewaldeth townships belong entirely to the vicar, for which he has about 329 acres, viz. : — 240 for the former, and about eighty for the latter. He has also forty acres for the tithes of Bothel, and twenty, five for those of Blennerhasset ; the great tithes of the foi-mer belong to W. Thomhum, Esq., for -which he 256 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWEXT WARD. has eighty acres ; and for the tithes of Threapland 125 acres have been awarded. The hving is valued iu the King's Book at £33 4s. lOd. ; but is now worth about JE305 per annum. It is in the patronage of the Bishop of Carlisle. Vicars.— Roger Peytenin, 130.3 ; Robert de Halogton, 13!6 ; Alan de Horucastle, 1323; Thomas Roland, ; Peter de Morland, 1355 ; Thomas de Salkeld, 1359 ; Thomas de Enghle, ; Robert de Byx. 1371 ; John Mason, 1380^ John de Car- lel, occurs in 1303 ; William Dobson, deprived 15C8; Thomas Tookie, 1508 ; Anthony Walkwood, 1576 ; Bernard Robinson, 161?; Bernard Robinson, junr., 1032; William Sill, ; William Nicolson, 1081; Thomas Nevinson, 189S ; Thomas Nicolson, 1728; William Fleming, 1735; Thomas Wilson, 1743; Augustus H. Newcombe, 1773; George Law, 1787; J. D. Carljle, 1701; John Fenton, ISOl; Joseph Thexton, 1854.1 There is a parsonage house. In the village there is a memorial Sunday school, a small but ueat building, erected in 1855, by the late Joseph Railton, Esq. It is sometimes used as a place of worship on Sunday evenings. In addition to the school at Bothel, this parish pos- sesses the following charities : — Addison's Charity. — Thomas Addison, by will, dated 14th December, 1702, devised to trustees certain lands and tenements in Torpenhow, that they should lay out the rent of the said premises, for the first year after his decease, in making a convenient place for setting the bread and loaves, thereby directed to be distributed, as thereafter mentioned ; and upon further trust, yearly, for ever thereafter, to divide the rent of the said premi- ses into fifty-two equal parts, to be laid out weekly by the overseers of the poor of the said parish, with the appro- bation of the vicar or curate for the time being, iu such quantities of bread as the said overseers should appoint, to be set in the place thereby ordered to be fitted, every Sunday during divine service, and to be distributed to such and to so many of the poor people of the said parish as the said trustees, churchwardens, and sixteen of the said parish, or any thirteen, or more of them, should judge fit, such poor people to be present in church during the service, unless hindered and kept from the church by some lawful impediment. This charity now pro- duces £10 per annum, and bread to that amount is given away, by weekly distribution, on Sundays, at church, amongst the poor attending divine service. Bewaldeth Quarter. — Simpson's Charity. — John Simpson, by will, dated 20th November, 1753, gave to the poor of Bewaldeth Quarter .CiO., the interest thereof to be paid yearly, on Good Friday. 1 This gentleman was curate from 1m31 till his appointment to the vicarage. Blennerhasset Quarter. — Bouch's Charity. — Richard Bouch, by will, dated August 20th, 1718, gave to the poor of Blennerhasset Quarter, for ever, all the rents and profits of a freehold close, called Gill Bushes, and nominated certain trustees to dispose of the rents at their discretion, to the use of the poor of the said quarter of Blennerhasset, on every 2nd day of November, at tho parish church of Torpenhow ; and he empowered his trustees to lease, alienate, or convey the said close at their discretion, so as the rents or interest of the money should continue to the use and purpose aforesaid ; keeping to themselves a moderate allowance for their trouble. Gill Bushes was sold some years ago to the late George Dawson, Esq., and in its stead a field, about six acres in extent, at Bothel, called Thorubank, has been purchased, the rent of which is £5 a year, which is distributed to the aged poor of the township of Blenner- hasset and Ku-kland. Whitrigg, or Whiterigg, said to derive its name from "the waste ground there fashioned like a cornrig." is a village and joint township with Torpeuhow, from which it is distant one mile south. BEWALDETH AND SNITTLEGAETH. In 1801 this township contained 55 inhabitants; in ISll, G5; in 1821, 97; in 1831, 72; in 1841, 73; and in 1851, 90. The rateable value is £856 16s. 2d. The soil here is good, resting on limestone. The manor of Bewaldeth, or Bowaldeth, was given by Waltheof, lord of Allerdale, to Gilmin, whose posterity, residing at Bothel, assumed the name of Bowett. Having afterwards reverted to the lord paramount, it was granted by Adelaide Piomih, daughter of WiUiam Fitz Duncan, to John de Utterfield. It subsequently became the property of the Mulcasters, in which family it remained for several descents. In the 2nd Edward I. (1273-4) Robert de Mulcaster granted by fine to his son, Walter de Mulcaster, the manors of Bewaldeth, Bolton, Torpenhow, and Blennerhasset; and in the 2nd Henry VI. (1400-1) Robert de ilulcaster granted to Robert de Highmore the vill of Bewaldeth, with the water mill, &c. It continued to be held by the Highmore family till Mr. Benson Highmore sold it to James Spedding, Esq., from a descendant of whom, John Spedding, Esq., of Mirehouse, it was purchased by Sir Frederick Fletcher Vane, Bart., grandfather of Sir H. R. Vane, Bart., the present lord of the manor. From an inquisition quod damnum taken in the 0th Edward II. (1312-J3) we learn that tlie manor was held of the honour of Cockermouth, by the service of maintaining one of the king's servants once for every three weeks. TORPENHOW PARISH. 257 The principal landowners are Henry Railton, Esq.; Sir Henry R. Vane, Bart.; Robert Atkinson, John Bows, and John Birbeck. The village of Bewaldeth is situated behind the lofty mountain called Binsey Fell, two miles north of the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake, and four miles south-south- west of Ireby. Snittlegarth, now the seat aud property of Henry Railton, Esq., is supposed to have been formerly a village of considerable magnitude. BLENNEUHASSET AND KIRKLAND. The rateable value of this township is £1,800. The number of its inhabitants in 1801 was 204; in 1811, 195; in 1821, 221; in 1831, 238; in 1841,294; and in 1851, 241. The commons of this township were enclosed by an act of parliament passed in 1807. The manor of Blennerhasset was given by Alan, lord of AUerdale, to his brother-in-law, Rauulph de Lindsey, from whose family it passed by inheritance to the Mul- casters, one of whom, Robert de Mulcaster, held it in the reign of Henry III. Robert was succeeded in the manor by his son William, who had issue Walter, who had issue WilHam, whose sou Robert had a daughter and co-heir, who was married to Jeffery Tilliol, and brought Hayton, Torpenhow, and Blennerhasset lo the Tilliols. Blennerhasset continued in this family for five generations, when Margaret, the younger sister of Robert de Tilliol, brought it in marriage to Robert Moresby, Esq., who died in the 3Tth Henry VI. (1458-9). The Moresbys held the manor till the demise of Sir Christo- pher Moresby, in 10th Henry VII. (1500-1), when it was brought by his daughter, Anne, to Sir James Pick- ering, Knt., of Killington, in Westmoreland. The heiress of the Pickerings sold it in the following reign to the Salkelds, as we learn from an inquisition taken 3.5th Henry VIII. (1543-4), when it was found that Sir Henry Knevet, and Anne, his wife, daughter of Sir Christopher Pickering, then held the manor of Torpen- how, but she had before sold the manor of Blennerhasset ; for at the same time we find that Thomas Salkeld, of Whitehall, held the manor of Blennerhasset of the king in capitc, by the service of the third part of one knight's fee, 12s. cornage, Cid. seawake, and puture of the sergeants. From another inquisition taken' in the 20ih Elizabeth (1 577-8), we learn that at that time Lancelot Salkeld held the manor of Blennerhasset, some time the land of the Earl of Warwick, by homage, fealty, and suit of court, and paid yearly for cornage 13s. 4d.; seawake, Is.; turn-silver, 3s. lOd.; with ser- geant's food ; in toto. 18s. 2d. The manor of Blen- nerhasset has since passed with Whitehall, and is now the property of William Henry Charlton, Esq., of Hesley Side. Up to the time of the publication of Nicolson and Burn's History, the tenants of this manor paid an ancient annual rent of £23, and arbitrary fines, and also heriots as well upon the widow's death as death of the tenant, and several boons and services, viz.: — "One day mowing, shearing, ploughing, mea- dows dressing, and two days leading coals." The manor of Kirkland, so called from having be- longed to the church, was previous to the suppression of the religious houses, held by the prioress and convent of Rossdale. After the reformation it was given to the Salkeld family, from whom it has come to William Henry Charlton, Esq. Nicolson and Burn state that " the tenants here have an extraordinary kind of tenure, namely, by lease granted to them generally by Mr. Lancelot Salkeld, father of Sir Francis, for 999 years, paying a certain yearly rent for every tenement, amount- ing in the whole to £6 15s. Id. yearly, and every twenty-one years they are to pay a fine to the lord, viz., " a twenty-penny fine, which they called a running gressem, and then take new leases, but pay no general fine upon the lord's death nor upon change of tenant, but they pay an heriot upon the death of every tenant." The principal landowners in the township are Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart.; William Henry Charlton, Esq.; John Dawson, Esq.; Thomas Jennings, Esq. ; Christo- pher Benson; Mrs. Hartness, Mrs. Hodgson, Mrs. Parkings, Miss Moore, Joseph Cape, and the Rev. Joseph Thexton. The village of Blennerhasset is situated on the banks of the Ellen, seven miles south-west of Wigton. Here is an Lidependent chapel, a plain stone building, erected in 1828, at a cost of £240. There is also a school, which is supported by the quarter-pence of the children, and has an average attendance of about fifty pupils. There is a corn-mDl in the township. BOTHEL AKD THREAPLAND. The population of this township in 1801 was 313; in 1811, 302; in 1821, 384; in 1831, 405; in 1841, 453 ; and in 1851, 495. Bothel and Threapland form a joint township for the maintenance of the poor, but are separate for the repairs of highways, &c. The waste lands belonging to the township were enclosed many years ago. The inhabitants are principally engaged in agriculture, and are chiefly resident in the village of Bothel. The township abounds in limestone, and coal is found in various places, but no mines have as yet been opened here. The soil is principally a strong loam. Cockermouth and Wigton are the markets usually attended. On a hill south-east of the village 258 ALLERD.ILB - BELOW- DEEWENT WARD. of Bothel, called Camp Hill, are the remains of a Eoman encampment, favourably situated for giving ■warning in times of invasion, for it commands an extensive vievr of the greater part of the Sclvvay Frith from Marvjiort to Bowness, and from it a signal made from any of the stations near the border would be at once discovered. In the year 1834, whilst some quany- men were at work in the limestone quarry at Bothel, they found several human skeletons about two and a half feet from the surface of the ground. Some of them were entire, but on being exposed for a short time to the influence of the atmosphere they crumbled to dust. A silver finger-ring was found among them. How these skeletons came to be in the place they were found is a mystery ; the most probable supposition is that they were the remains of some of those who fell victims to the marauding Scots during the times of the border forays. The manor of Bothel, otherwise Boald, was given in the reign of Henry I. by Waltheof, lord of Allerdale, to Gamel, son of Brun, whose posterity continued its possessors until the reign of Edward III., when, male issue failing, it came to co-heiresses, by whom it was brought in marriage to the Harrington, Culwen, and Bowet families. The descendants of Harrington sold their share, with the parks and demesne to Thomas Lord Dacre, who conveyed it in exchange to the Dentons. From an inquisition taken in the 20th of Elizabeth (15TT-8) we find that "Anthony Barwise, Esq., lioldeth the third part of the manor of Bothel, late the land of Thomas Culwen ; Thomas Ellis, son and heir of Jo. Ellis, holdeth another third part of the said manor, sometimes the lands of Thomas Bowett, Knight ; and Thomas Denton, of Warnethal, holdeth another third part of the said manor, sometime the land of llicbael Earington, Knight, by homage, fealty, suit of court from three weeks to three weeks, and sergeant's food, and payeth by year for cornage, 8s. lOd. ; and for scawake, 2s.; in toto, 10s. lOd." In 1670 Thomas Denton, Esq., sold the park, &c., to Sir Francis Salkeld, and the manor to Captain Anthony Wilkes. Sir Henry Curwen sold the third part of Bothel, which belonged to his family, to the Barwises of Ilekirk, whose heiress brought it to the Dentons, and the Dentons sold it to the Salkelds. Bowet's share is said to have been conveyed by Sir Nicholas Bowet to William Ellis, whoso grand- son sold it to the tenants ; but in 1807, William John Charlton, Esq., representative of the Salkelds, claimed to be solo lord of the manor, and his claim was allowed by the commissioners. The manorial rights are now claimed by AViUiam Henry Charlton, Esq.; Jlr. Brown, of Tallantire Hall ; and Mr. Turner, of Derwcnt Hall, near Keswiek, have also some trifling claims. Bothel Hall is now a farrn-hoase . The manor of Threapland was granted by Alan, second lord of Allerdale, to his steward, Ketel, from whose descendants it passed in the reign of Edward I. to the family of Hercla, one of whom, Michael de Hercla, in the reign of Edward II. conveyed it to William de Mulcaster, whose brothers, Thomas and John do Mul- caster, held it successively, the latter granting it in the reign of Edward in., by fine, to Sir Henry Multon and Margaret his wife, whose daughter and co-heir brought it in marriage to the Skeltons. In 1578 AVilliam Skelton held Threapland by homage, fealty, suit of court, and other services, paying yearly for cornage 4s. 6d. ; seawake, 8d. ; free rent, 20s. ; and for sergeant's food and turn-silver, 2s. ; in toto, 27s. 2d. It subsequently passed by sale to the Salkeld family, and from them to the Greggs of IMirehouse, one co- heiress of whom married the Rev. John Story, and the other Roger Wilkinson, Esq. R. Jackson, Esq., is the present lord of the manor. Threapland Hall is now- occupied as a farm-house. The principal landowners of the township are Messrs. Richard Jackson, William Thornburn, Jonathan Harri- man, John Smithson, John Penrice, Thomas Falcon, Robert Miller ; the trustees of the late Wilson Jackson, the trustees of the late WLUiam Brisco, the trustees of the late Joseph Strong, the trustees of the late Thomas Moore; Miss Pearson, Elizabeth Hodgson, and Mrs. Spratt. The village of Bothel is pleasantly situated on the side of an eminence, one mile south-west of Torpenhow. At its east end is a remarkably large boulder stone, probably drifted here from Norway, or it may have been tossed over the fells from Wastdale Crag, or Sliap Fells, in Westmoreland. Here are chapels belonging to the Wesleyans and Primitive Methodists. That belonging to the former body was erected by subscrip- tion in 1 840, and that of the latter in 1 836. THE SCHOOL. The only account we have of the foundation of the school at Bothel is derived from an entry in one of the parish books, dated May 12th, 1086, which states that a subscription was raised amongst the pai-ishioners towards the founding of the school at Bothel into a free school for all the parish. The school stock raised in this manner is entered in 1088 at £55, in 170G at £H. Part of this appears afterward to have been laid out in the purchase of a freehold close, called Nicol Flatt, situated at Bothel ; JCIO (other part thereof) was put out at interest till about 1811, when it was laid out as hereafter mentioned. There is also the following entry ULBALE PAEISH. 25i in the parish book, under the date 12th of May, 1686, and immediately preceding the names of the inhabi- tants who subscribed to the raising of the school stock: — "Henry Salkeld, Esq., pays yearly the sum of 508., at the two terms of May 1st and November 1st." It does not appear whether this was a charge existing before that time, or whether Mr. Salkeld then first agreed to pay 50s. annually towards the support of the school, nor have we been able to ascertain whether that payment was ever paid upon land. It has, however, been considered as a rent charge upon Mr. Salkeld's property.- In the parish book, under the date of 1680, it is mentioned as " Salkeld's charge on Threapland, £2 10s.," and in a terrier dated 1777 it is described as payable out of Threapland Hall. As long as the pro- perty belonging to the Salkelds remained in the family ■undivided, the .503. was regularly paid. Previous to the year 1768, thu estate was divided into two parcels : Threapland Hall, with its appurtenances, came to Eoger WOliamson, Esq., and Bothel Hall, with its appurte- nances, to Mr. Story. The payment was then appor- tioned between these two persons, the former paying yearly £1 18s., and the latter l-2s. About 1708 Mr. Story ceased to pay his proportion, and about 1816, or 1817, Mr. Williamson became embarrassed, and since that time the payment of his share has also been dis- continued. The rents of two closes, the one called Cuskeld and the other Witherigge, have also been carried to the school account from the time when the subscription was raised, in 1080, up to the present time. Before 1686 those rents had been carried to the account of the parish ; but it is not known how they became possessed of this property, nor by what aiTangements the rents were transferred to the school. A further endowment appears to have been left by Eichard Smith- son, as we find that, in 1701, John Brisco and Barbara his wife re-leased to the schoolmaster and sixteen of the parish two acres of land in Lang Flatt, described as being one moiety of the land left to the free school by Richard Smithson. And also that two acres of land lying in the same place, and also described as being a moiety of the land left by Kichai-d Smithson to the free school, were re-leased to the same person by William and Jane AUason. There is also a close called the Low Field, or the parisli close, the rents of which have been applied to the use of the school as long as can be remembered ; but by whom this property was given cannot now be ascertained. The only other source of income to the school is a piece of land allotted to it about the year 1811, upon the enclosure of certain common lands in the parish. The £10 residue of the school stock above-mentioned was laid out in fencing this allotment. These lands are seve- rally let by auction, in public, by the sixteen of the parish (every seven years), in whom the management of the school affairs is vested. The whole of the rents are regularly paid to the master. The repairs of the school, when required, are generally provided for by the parish : except when there has been no schoolmaster the rents have been retained and applied to that pur- pose. The schoolmaster is appointed by the sixteen at a select vestry ; and he takes all the children of the parish that apply, without any charge, and teaches them English, writing, and arithmetic. A regulation has been made by the sixteen that no children shall be admitted under the age of five years. The average number of scholars is now about seventy-five. In this township there is a small saw-mill, carried on by John and George Messenger. There is also a white freestone quarry, worked by the inhabitants, and from which the houses in Bothel have been built. There are in addition two limestone quarries. The village of Threapland, in this township, is seven miles north-north-east of Cockermouth. ULDALE PARISH. The parish of Uldale is bounded on the north by Bolton, on the west by Ireby, on the south by Bassenthwaite, and on the east by Caldbeck. It is said to derive its name from the river Ellen, which has its principal source here from two small lakes, one of which. Over-water, is about a mile and a haK, and the other, Little Tarn, about half a mile in circumference. About a mUe and a half to the south of these lakes there is a fine cascade.' called White Water Dash, where a brook is precipitated from a lofty mountain ; and, after a great fall of rain, its foammg down the rocks, which may be seen at a considerable distance, is grand and imposing. The parish coutams three divisions, viz., Uldale, Aughertree, and Above Ouze, whose united ai-ea is 5,500 acres, but comprises only one township and manor. Cockennouth, Wigton, and Keswick are the markets usually attended by the inhabitants. 260 ALLERDALE - BELOW- DEKWENT WARD. The population of Uldale in 1801 was 284 ; in 1811, 279; in 18-21, 343; in 1831, 344; in 1841, 330; and in 1851, 388. Its rateable value is i21,8 15. The soU about the village of Uldale is a clay, or strong loam, and produces excellent crops of barley, oats, turnips, lie, and the Uldale Hall estate has long been known as one of the finest grazing farms in the county. The division Above-Ouze, which is more mountainous and much colder, is not so fruitful, the crops there being generally hght ; but it affords good pasturage for sheep, of which between four and five thousand are kept in the parish, which, like Caldbeck and other adjoining parishes, is famed for the Herdwick breed. Large quantities of limestone are obtained here, and a small seam of coal has also been met with. There are also some veins of copper, which were wrought, but with indifferent success, about seventy years ago. On Uldale common are some ancient ruins, apparently the remains of two Koman stations, and in a field near Orthwaite Hall is a very perfect Roman camp ; a tripod and other tilings have been lately dug up in its vicinity. The manor of Uldale was given by Waltheof, lord of Allerdale, to Adam, son of Lyulph, brother of Phorn, son of Lyulph, baron of Greystoke, together with the manor of Gilcrux. From this Adam it descended by a daughter to the Bonekills, who granted Gilcrus to a younger brother, Robert Bonekill, whose sons, Thomas and AValter, gave away then- inheritance in Gilcrux to the abbey of Calder — this grant was confirmed by Sir Ranulph Bonekill, lord paramount of Uldale and Gil- crux. Sir Ranulph had issue Alexander, whose son Adam gave Aiverthwaite, now Aughertree, parcel of his manor of Uldale, to the priory of Carlisle. The said Adam had issue another son, Alexander, whose daughter and heir was married first to John Stuart, kinsman of the King of Scotland, and afterwards to David Brigham, a Scottish knight renowned for his prowess and bravery, and by this marriage the manor of Uldale passed to the Brigham fiimily. "This David Brigham," say Nicolson and Burn, "was a companion of William Wallace that was executed at London for treason committed against Edward I., by resisting that king's attempt for the superiority of Scotland, and the Ealiol's right to the crown of Scotland, taking part with Robert Bruce. Wallace was a man of extraor- dinary strength, and David Brigham an exceeding good horseman, whereupon the Scots made this rhyme, — The man was ne'er so wight nor geuJ, But worthy Wallace durst him bide ; Nor ever horse so wild or weud. But David Brigham durst him ride." On the attainder of Alexander Senescall, this manor was given to Anthony Lord Lucy, in 1337, as we learn from the patent rolls of the reign of Edward III. From this time it continued attached to the barony of Allerdale until Henry, the sixth earl of Northumber- land, gave it to Henry VHI., who, by letters patent bearing date 15th of July, 1543, granted to Thomas Dalston, Esq., together with other possessions, the manor of Uldale, for which he was to pay yearly 47s. 3^d. This Thomas Dalston, two years later, by fine, settled the manor upon himself and his second wife Eleanor for life, with remainder to his son Chris- topher Dalston (by bis said second wife) and the heirs of his body, with remainder to his own right heirs. Uldale continued to be possessed by the Dalstons till the demise of Sir William Dalston, Knt., of Acorn Bank, Westmoreland, when it was sold to John Gaff, Esq., and by his son to the Earl of Egremont, from whom it has descended to General Wyndham, the present lord of the manor. The principal landowners are Jackson Gillbanks, Esq. ; Henry Railton, Esq. ; Henry Grainger, Esq. ; Sir Wilfrid Lawson, Bart. ; Messrs. Jonathan Cowx, James Burn, Richmond Fell, Henry Norman, Christopher Taylor, Joseph Scott, and Mrs. Parkin. The village of Uldale is situated six miles west-by- south of Hesket Newmarket, nine miles south-by-west of Wigton, and one mile south-by-east of Ireby. A sheep fair was estabhshed here in 1791, and continues to be held annuaUy on the 29th of August. THE CHDP.CH. Uldale church, which stands about half a mile from the village, is a small structure, being only twenty-two yards in length, by eight in breadth. It was built, at the e.xpense of the inhabitants, in 1730, and is kept in good repair. The living is a rectory, in the patronage of Jackson Gillbanks, Esq., whose father, Joseph Gill- banks, Esq., purchased the advowson of the Rev. Jona- than Cape ; he also rebuilt the chancel, and added a vestry to the church. The chancel contains a good stained glass window. The tithes were commuted in 1839 for a yearly rent charge of £130, exclusive of surplice fees and Easter dues. The glebe land consists of upwards of twenty-two acres. The living is valued in the King's Book at £17 18s. lid., and is now worth about £150 per annum. The parish register com- mences in 1642. Rectors. — Robert do Depjng, ; Hugh do Roucestre, 1305; Adam de Eglesfield, ; Hugh, ViW; Richard de Askeby, 1354; William Aykhoved, ; Thomas de Etton, 1369; Robert Mairays, 1375; John FryseU, 1385; John Shayres, ; Thomas Harrison, 1576; James Carlisle, 1583 ; George Hudson, 1624; Henry Fallowtield, ; Wilham Walker, 1665; Henry Guy, 1677; Thomas Nevinson, 1684; I'eter Gregory, 1097; Edward Backhouse, 1719; Richard ULDALE PARISH. 261 Machel, 1752; Andrew HoUday, 1770; Joseph Cape, 1780; JoDathan Cape, 1830; Joshua Clark, 1833. CHABITLES. The Grammar School. — The establishment of this school originated in an agreement dated the 30th of January, 1720, between Matthew Caldbeck, Esq., of the one part, and the inhabitants of Uldale of the other part. By articles drawn up of the date above-mentioned, reciting that the said Matthew Caldbeclc has paid into the hands of trustees £100 towards the maintenance of a master in the grammar school to be erected in Uldale for the teaching of the children of the parishioners of the said parish, parties to the said agreement, and the children of those who should succeed to their respective estates, and of such poor persons as the trustees for the time being should think tit, in the rudiments of grammar and other useful learning, and in the princi- ples of the Christian rehgion according to the doctrine of the Church of England ; and further reciting, that the parties thereto had agreed to raise, amongst them- selves, the further sum of £100 for the same purpose, it was agreed that certain persons therein named should be trustees for the building and ordering the said school- house, and laving out the said monies on sufBcient security for the maintenance of a schoolmaster, and that the said trustees should have the nomination and displacing of such schoolmaster; and it was further agreed, that the school-house should be repaired by the parties thereto and out of the said fund. Indorsed upon the said articles is an agreement, that certain other persons who had subscribed to the school, but were not of the parish of Uldale, should also have the benefit of the freedom thereof The fuU sum of £100 appears soon afterwards to have been raised amongst the inhabitants, and to have been added to the £ 1 00 given by Matthew Caldbeck. In the year 1736 £31 10s., part of the £200, was laid out in the pur- chase of about six acres of land in Uldale town fields ; and in 1759 a further sum of £150 was laid out, together with £41 5s. advanced by the trustees, in the purchase of about fifteen acres of land in the parish of Ireby. The sum of £41 5s. advanced by the trustees, continued as a charge upon the property in Ireby until sometime after the year 1798, when it was paid off. Thomas Thomlinson, Esq., by will, dated April 16tb, 1798, as stated more fuUy in our account of the parish of Thursby, left part of the residue of his personal property to the trustees of this school. The share received by them was £354, of which there was ex- pended £41 OS. in paying off the money due to the trustees on account of the purchase of the Ireby estate ; about £ 1 0 lOs. in erecting a marble tablet in the church to record the benefaction of the testator; and £300, being the remamder of the sum, after payment of some expenses that v,-ere incuiTed, was placed out at interest. The entire income of the school at present amounts to £40 ] 9s., the whole of which is paid to a schoolmaster, who teaches free as many poor children of the parish as the trustees send to him, and the children of the representatives of the original subscribers. For other scholars he takes a quarterage. The average attend- ance is about seventy. Dalston's Charity. — The Charity Commissioners were not able to ascertain the particulars of the bequest of John Dalston, but they state that " by indenture dated 3rd November, 1719, Jennett and Joseph Atkinson, in consideration of £20 which it was therein recited was bequeathed by John Dalston to the poor^of the parish of Uldale, conveyed two acres of land, at Birkmire, in the parish of Uldale, with the houses thereunto belong- ing, to the minister, churchwardens, and overseers of the said parish (whom they directed should be trustees for the said charity, for the poor) for the remainder of a, term of 3,000 years." The property now belonging to this charity is a field of about two or three acres, without any buildings upon it. It is let at a yearly rent of £4 4s., which is distributed every Good Friday, in the church, after divine service, amongst six or eight poor persons who do not receive parish relief. Cape's Charity. — Thomas Cape, by will dated 13th March, 1771, left £200 in trust, to be disposed of for the use and benefit of such poor persons and children of Uldale as should not receive parish relief. This legacy was paid over by the representatives of the testator to trustees, who secured it upon a mortgage of land, which produces about £8 4s. per annum, which sum is distributed annually on the 14th September amongst six or eight poor persons who do not receive parish relief. The same persons who receive the benefit of Dalston's charity above-mentioned generally receive this also. Thomlinsons Charity. — Thomas Thomlinson, by will dated IGth April, 1798, left £00 to the poor of Uldale, as more particularly mentioned in our account of his charity to the poor of Thursby. The sum received on account of this legacy for the parish of Uldale, after the payment of expenses, was £54, which yields £2 8s. a year interest. That sum is distributed annually by the minister and churchwardens amongst such of the poor of the parish as are considered the most necessi- I tous and deserving. It is not confined to those who j do not receive parish rehef. ! In adcUtion to these charities there is a fi-ee quit-rent 1 of 4s. 6d. a yeai", purchased with £5 left by Mr. Cows, S62 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DEEWENT WARD. There are two corn mills in the parish, one situated near the church, and the other at Mirkholme. Aughertree is one mile north-by-east of Uldale. It was granted to the prior of Carlisle bj Adam Bonekill, as above stated, and at the Dissolution came to Thomas Dalston along with the manor of Uldale. Longlands is one mile east-by-south of Uldale, and Orthwaite two miles south. Orthwaite Hall is a fine old building, which has been the residence of many old Cumberland families, among whom were the Simpsons, Richmonds, and Brownes of Tallan- tire. The last owner of the latter name was the cele- brated African traveller, from whose representatives it was purchased by the late Mr. GiUbanks, of Whitefield, father of the present owner, Jackson GiUbanks, Esq. About the stable are the armorial bearings of the Sa'.kelds of High Head Castle, and the Eichmonds, who married heiresses of Vaux, of Catterlen. The old mansion is now occupied as a farm-house. WESTWARD PAEISH. The parish of Westward is bounded on the north by Thursby, on the west by Wigton, on the south by Bolton and Caldbeck, and on the east by Sebergham and Dalston. The soil, which is in a high state of cultivation, consists chiefly of a strong fertile clay, with a portion of sand, and produces excellent crops of wheat, oats, &c., except towards the south and south-east parts, where it is rather cold and wet. The higher grounds abound with Umestone ; and the Shawk and How Rigg quarries have long been noted for the production of red and white freestone, slate, flags, &c., esteemed the best in Cumberland. In the parish are also several seams of cannel and other coal. Westward contains the townships of Stoueraise, Woodside, Rosley, and Brocklebank, whose united area is 13,120 acres. Wigton is the market usually attended. At the period of the Norman Conquest of England, Westward was forest ground of Allerdale, and was con- veyed by Alan, second lord of that barony, to Henry II., ■who annexed it to, and incorporated it with, his forest of Inglewood, and from thence it received the name of the Westward.' Subsequent to this, King John granted the hermitage of St. Hilda within the boundaries of Westward to the monastery of Holme Cultram, and the monks of that house erected a chapel in the neighbour- hood of the hermitage, wliich chapel or oratory, in pro- cess of time obtained the rights and privileges of a parish church, but was then, as all forests were, extra- parochial. In the 18th Edward I. (1290), a memora- ble case occurred concerning the tithes of Louthwaite and Curthwaite, both of which were within the bounds of the forest. The tithes were claimed by the king as of common right, he being entitled to all those of extra- parochial places ; they were also claimed by the bishop as being within the parish of Aspatria ; the prior and convent of Carlisle also claimed them by grant from Henry n., as of an assart within the forest of Inglewood; and, finally, tbe parish priest of Thursby claimed them I Tbe statement in tlic text is given on the authority of Nicolson and Bum ; but in the survey made in 1578, to which we have so often referred, we find it stated that " It appeaietli that the said Westward is not within the limit of the forest of Inglewood, for that in a peram- bulation of the said forest made the 0th of August, iii the ninth year of the reign of King Bichard II., the Westward is not included." as being within his parish — the case was decided in favour of the monarch. The same king, in the twenty- second year of his reign (1294), by his charter setting forth the settlement of the case just mentioned, and his recovery of tbe tithes, granted unto the prior and con- vent of Carlisle not only the tithes of the places above- mentioned, but also all tithes accruing in all lands and places in the forest of Inglewood, that should be after- wards assarted, not being within the limits of any parish, without the impediment of the king or his heirs, his justices, foresters, verderers, or other officers, of the forest. Since the granting of this charter the tithes of Westward l^ave been enjoyed by the church of Carlisle, during Catholic times by the prior and convent, and since the Dissolution by the dean and chapter. The forest having been granted to Henry II., as we have seen above, it continued to be held by the crown till the reign of Edward III., who, in the seventeenth year of his reign (1313), granted it to Thomas Lord Lucy and Agues his wife, under the name of " Solimi ct herbngium dc Allerdale." These possessions were afterwards in- creased by Robert TiUiol, who, by deed, dated 17th February 1305, gave certain lands adjoining to "Hasil Spring (in Bosco de Allerdale) to the said Thomas Lord Lucy and Agnes his wife." Their daughter and last surviving heir, ilaud, conveyed this property to her husband, Henry Percy, first Earl of Northumberland, WESTWARD PAJIISH. 263 ia whose family it continued till Hemy, the sixth Earl, gave it, with others, to Henry VTII. Queen Mary granted these possessions to Thomas Percy, brother to the last Henry, but they reverted to the crown, on his attainder during the reign of Elizabeth Nicolson and Burn tell us that after this forfeiture, in the 14th Eliza- beth (1571-2), a commission was issued to Richard, Bishop of Carlisle: Henry Lord Scrope; Thomas Lord Wharton; Simon Musgrave, Knt. ; Henry Curwen,Knt.; Francis Slingsby, Cuthbert ilusgrave, John Penruddock, Anthony Barwise, Thomas Leigh, and Robt. Highmoor, Esqs., to enquire upon certain articles to the said com- mission annexed ; and accordingly an inquisition was taken at Westwai-d January 9th and 10th, 1573, iqpon the oaths of Richard Salkeld, Francis Lamp- lugh, Roland Vaux, John Richmond, Anthony Curwen, Esqi-s., Alexander Highmoor, John Southahe, John EUis, Thomas Bewley, Robert Vaux, Robert Dalstou, Richard Kirkbride, John Skelton, Richard Stanwix, John Pattin- son, and Robert Mulcaster, gentlemen, as follows, viz : — ■" Articles and inteiTOgatives to be ministered and in- quired upon, for and in behixlf of the tenants and inhabi- tants that claim common and pasture within the forest of Westward :" " First, how the said common and pasture hath been used before the late attainted Earl of Northumberlancl's restitution to the same by the late sovereign lady, Queen Maiy?" " To this it is answered, that the tenants of the bishop of Carlisle and of the dean and chapter of the cathedral church of Carlisle, inhabitants at Great Dalston, Little Dalston, Hawkesdale, Cumdevock, Cardew and Cardew- lees, Biickhowbank, Northank, Caldewgate, and Caldew- stones, Caldcoats, Newby, Great Cummersdale, Little Cummersdale, Brownelson, New Laythes, and Harring- ton Houses: the tenants and the manor of Crofton and Parton, Micklethwaite and Whjmey ; the Queen's Majesty's tenants, and the tenants of her Majesty's free- holders of the barony of Wigton ; the manor and town- ships of Waverton and Xyket, W^oodside, EJrkland, Eoshewen, Moorthwaite, Dockwray, Moorhouse, Ulton, Lassenhow, Kirkbride, Caldbeck and Kirkthwaite, have always used time without memory ibefoi'e the restitution of the late attainted Earl of Northumberland by the late Queen Mai-y) to have common and pasture within the forest of Westward. " The second article : "\^^lat inclosurcs the said late Earl of Northumberland hath made within the said Westward : what quantity of ground the same inclosure doth contain ; and how the same hath been used ; and what yearly rent hath been paid, and answered since the same inclosure ?— Answer : Since the restitution of the said late attainted earl, there have been made and im- proved sLx score and seven inclosures, containing twenty- seven score, five acres, half acre, one rood, one half rood ; of which sis score and seven inclosures there be newly inhabited, and houses builded upon thirty-two, which thirty-two contain ten score, five acres, half acre, one rood and half rood of ground ; the residue of the said six score and seven inclosures, which be four score and fifteen in number, and contain seventeen score acres, are rejoined and annexed to the tenants that have an- cient farmholds besides : And they find, that the rents in hand or reserved upon the said enclosures (as they learn and understand by the late receiver-general of the said late attainted Earl of Northumberland) do amount to the sum of £9 19s. 5d. " The third article : How many of the inclosures may remain in what state they be, without annoyance and hurt to the tenants and inhabitants that claim com- mon and pasture there within the same '? — To this they find and present, that none of the said improvements and inclosures may remain in the same state they be, without annoyance to the said tenants and inhabitants specified in the firet article, and that claim common and pasture within the same. " To the several following articles, they give one general answer, as follows, viz: 'Art. 4. What number of tenants and inhabitants there be, that claim or ought to have common there, and in what lordships, baronies, parishes, towns, and villages the tenants and inhabitants that claim to have the said common and pasture do dweU and be ? Art. 5. Whether any of them that claim the said common and pasture be the Queen's Majestys ten- ants ; if they be, then what number is there of them, and in what lordship, barony, town, or parish they do inhabit ? Ai't. 6. What annoyance, hurt, or hindi-auce would the said inclosures be to such as claim the said common and pasture, if the same should still remain; and whether may any thereof remain inclosed without their hurt'? Art. 7. To what yearly rent do the said inclosures amount ; and if the said inclosures should be- laid open and unclosed, how should the Queen's Majesty be answered of the same rent, or what yearly rent or money should or ought she have yearly of or by the said tenants and inhabitants that claim the said com- mon, if they should enjoy the same, or what other service or considerations should they do, or have they heretofore done, in respect of or for the same ? Art. 8. Wliether have tlie said tenants and inhabitants that claim the said common and pasture had the same time out of mind of man before the said inclosure ; or how long, and at what time have they had the same? Answer: To these articles they find and present, as before they have found and presented; and further, 264 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DEEWENT WARD. that they, the said tenants and inhabitants aforesaid, claiming common for the said grounds inclosed to be laid open and prostrate, will submit themselves and stand to her grace's order for the rent thereof.' " From the inquisition taken in 1578, we learn the following particulars relative to Westward, which are now printed for the first time, and will no doubt be acceptable to our readers : — " Within the bounder is contained the whole chase called the Westward, being all of th' inheritance of the said Earl, Saving one parcel of ground called Cleofleld, and certain tenements called East Kirthwate, West Kirthwatc, and Starthwate Lees, of the inheritance of the Queen's Mnjesty; and also three tenements in Starthwaiterigg and one tenement lying in Kirthwate, of the inheritance of the late Lord Dacre, and also two tenements in Starthwaiterigg of the inheritance of John Starthwaite and Edward Hewet, and one tenement at Fosterfolde of the inheritance of John Robinson. " The said earl hath, within the said Westward, by charter dated at Westminster the 18th day of June anno tertio Richardi Secundi (1380), free chase and free warren throughout the whole grounds within the limits and bounds before specified, and also court barrens from three weeks to three weeks, with view of frank pledge and court leet two times in the year, viz., within one mouth ne.\t after Easter, and within one month next after the feast of St. jMichael the Archangel, and also within the said chase all goods, waives, strays, goods of fellones, fugitives, of men outlawed and put in exigent, the goods of fellons of themselves forfeited, and also iufangtheof and outfangtheof, the punishment by amerciament and all frays and violent drawing of blood, e.'cecution of presses, the forfeiture by amerciaments of the breach of the assize of bread and ale within the whole limits of the said Westward, and also the chattels or goods of any person not the lord's tenant witliin the said Westward within the same do pasture or be found there, the officers of the lord do and may im- pound the same and present the offenders at the court there, in the which court the said offences are punished and is punishable by way of amerciament, and in the same there hath been a great store and yet remains some part of fallow deer, for the preservation whereof the M'- of the same, bowbearers, foresters, keepers, and rangers, are by the lord appointed and have certain fees and allowances, all which lilierties, royalties, and privileges, with divers others, the said earl and his ancestors (whose estate he hath in the said chase) have peaceably used and enjoyed, the time whereof tho memory of no man is to be had to the contrary. " There is no advowson of benefices appendant or belonging to the said chase, for that the whole grounds and compass thereof are of the parish of St. JIarie's at Carlisle, distant from thence five miles at the least, in consideration whereof, Thomas late Earl of Northum- berland (brother unto the said earl) procured the erec- tion of a church there, now called the new Kirk in Westward, whereunto the whole inhabitants of the said chase resorte, and all the sacraments there administered unto them by a curate or stypendarie priest, found of their own charges, saving for his mansion-house and certain grounds thereto adjoining, which he hath of benevolence, and at will and pleasure of the said earl, as hereafter appeareth among the tenants at will. " There is within the said chase one house called the New Hall, near and about the which there is certain pounds which have been inclosed, and are convenient to have been inclosed for preservation of the game and woods then not or yet rented or employed to any other use, which said grounds contain by estimation 180 acres, and in compass or circuit by measure 1,063 roods, of which compass the hedges of Rethwate, Hasilspring, and other do inclose — roods, the residue being — roods at 8d. the rood, will amount to — within which said ground, where the ancient frith hath been and now needful to be inclosed, as well for the pre- servation of deer, as also for th' increase of woods as is aforesaid. Cuthbert Musgrave and Anthony Barwis, Esqrs., hold a great parcel of ground, where as is now the fittest place for deer and the best growth for wood, called Tongthwate ; and the said Anthony Barwis holdeth another parcel of ground adjoining to the same, called Longmire ; and Richard Studholme holdeth there a close adjoining to the same called Waver Banks, or Waver Riggs ; all which said parcels are now remaining in the lord's hand for the cause before declared, and not demised. " There is at this present within the said forest or chase the number of four score and twelve fallow deer, or thereabouts, which, if the frith and grounds afore- said, were inclosed and preserved would soon cncrease and plenish to a convenient number, and without the same provision there can never be any encreaso by reason the grounds be suffered and used as common are depastured so bare in summer that the deer, especially the fawnes and old deer, die and perish in winter (so maney sometimes more) as commonly encreaso iu the summer. " Tbe tenahts of the Bishop of Carlisle, of Dalston, John Dalston, Henry Denton of Cardcw, the tenants of Thorsby, Crofton, and certain tenements of tlio barony of Wigton, being all foresters or borderers of the said chase called Westward (have by suffering) WESTWARD PAEISH. 265 had pasture there for their cattle, aud have sometimes license to grave turfes, and take wood for their neces- sities, and paid for them certain small amerciaments, by reason of which continuance the said tenants or parties do challenge to enjoy the same of right, which is much hurtful to tho inheritance of the said earl, and must be provided to bo reformed, or otherwise it will be to his lordship's great disinlieritance. " The grounds aforesaid lying about the New Hall were immediately upon the tailing of this present survey included in two several parks, as followeth, viz. : — " The North Park is inclosed with a ditch and quickset hedge, and the whole compass and circuite of the same, as the riug-ditch goeth, is by measure one thousand three score and two roods, allowing seven yards to the rood, and five score to the hundred ; aud the lenth of the said North Park from the west part thereof, called "VVysa Water, up to the east end, called "Water Spring, contains by like measure 336 roods ; and the bredth of the said North Park, from the foot of the Day Platts on the south side, to a place called the Prince's Gill ou the north side, ] 02 roods ; and the whole park contains by estimation in which said North Park standeth the said New Hall, now used for the keeper lodge ; aud there is in the said North Park and South Park following, to the number of four score and twelve fallow deer, or thereabouts, as aforesaid. " The South Park is, in like manner, inclosed with a ditch and quickset hedge; and the compass of the same, containing by like measure 1,071 roods by estimation, containeth in all . In which said South Park the said game hath recourse as well as in the other." The following is in a different hand : — " The inhabitants and Ten'»- at Westward claim a certain custom of ten'- right, which (it seemeth) they cannot prove to be any Interest for them, for that y° gi-ound (being a Chase or Forest) was at y" first grant thereof (as appeareth) not much inhabited with dwellers or Ten"- aud a great number of y° Tenants that are now placed there, have built houses upon y= grounds, improved within time of memory . . And also in y'^ 26th year of K. Hen: 6; it appeareth in a book of accounts that one Henry Fenwick, Knt., held all y* same grounds of y^ said earl his ancestors for a • certain rent, by lease for a term of years ; and y» Tenants there are in all Piecords and Precedents named Tenants at WUl, and so remain." The MS. then gives a list of the tenants at will, with an account of their respective tenements, &c., and concludes by giving the " Sum general and total of the rents and yearly receipts within the Westward, besides the profits of parks, and perquisites of courts now payable — £Ao 4s. 7d." From this sum there were several deduc- tions made, and the residue amounted to £37 17s. 7d., besides the profits of parks and the perquisites of courts. Westward shared the fate of the possessions of the Percy family, passing from them to the Earls of Egre- mont, coming ultimately to General Wyndham, the present lord of the manor. STONERAISE. The number of acres in Stoneraise township is 3,471, and its rateable value £4,390 15s. Its population in 1801, was 434 ; in 1811, 475 ; in 1821, 621 ; in 1831, 603; in 1841, 440; and in 1851, 436. This town- ship, which has no village of its own name, is the largest and most fertile in the parish. The principal landowners are General Wyndham, Charles Feather- stonehaugh, Esq.; Miss Aghonby ; F. L. B. Dykes, Esq. ; John Barnes, Kobert Jefferson, and Mrs. Peat, with many resident yeomen. THE CHURCH. The parish church of Westward is situated on an elevated piece of ground, overlooking a deep ravine, in the hamlet of Churchbill, and township of Stoneraise, three miles south of Wigton. The church of West- ward is supposed to have taken its origin from the hermitage of St. Hilda mentioned above. It contains monuments of the Barwis family, particularly that of Pachard Bar(vis, Esq. (commonly called the Great Barwis, from his gigantic stature) of Ilekirk Hall, and his wife Frances, who died in 1648. The benefice is a curacy certified to the governors of Queen Anne's bounty at £23, and returned, in 183.5, as of the average value of £99, but is now worth about £120 a year. There are five acres of ancient glebe, together with forty acres allotted at the enclosure of the commons in 1822 (the act for which was passed in 1811), the rent of which, with the interest of a parliamentary grant of £1,200, £22 a year from the ecclesiastical commissioners, £4 a year for performing service every Sunday afternoon at the chapel of ease, Easter dues, surplice fees, &c., make up the sum named above. At the enclosure 1,408 acres were awarded to the dean and chapter, the patrons of the living, in lieu of all tithes, viz., 893 i acres for the tithes of the common land, 360 acres in lieu of the tithes of the ancient land, 67 acres as a modus for the tithe of meal 38^ acres for the tithe of geese, and 49 acres in lieu of the tithe of wool and lamb. The parish register commences in 1 605. Incumbents. Pitney, occurs in 1578; William Hayton, died 1752; James Currie, 1753; John Pape, 1764; Samuel Hallifax, 1777; J. Kogerson, 1814; Kobt. "iS ood, licensed in 1822. There are schools at Church Hill and the Craggs. 266 ALLE RD ALE - BELOW - DEEWENT WARD. CHARITIES. Bamis's Charity. — Frances Barwis, in 1C57, gave to the poor of Westwai-d and Wigton a parcel of ground near Wigton, called Stankbauk, or a rent-charge of 40s. yearly therefrom, whereof aOs. to Westward on the 21st December, and 10s. each to Westwai'd and Wigton on the Sth April, yearly. Trustees : The heirs of Hekirk, the minister of Westward, the heirs of Mungo Dalton, of Swinsty ; and of John Watson, of Stoneraisc. John Jefferson's Charity. — John Jefferson, of Brack- enthwaite, left by will, in 1747, £00 for teaching six poor children belonging to tlic parisli of Westward. With this sum a cottage and two acres of land were purchased near Dalston. Kent JEO per annum. Trustees : The per- petual curate and sidesmen of the parish. Tapes Charity. — The Eev. Mr. Pape, perpetual curate of Westward, left by will, in 1778, £20 for teaching one poor child at the church school, when the incumbent is not master. Otherwise the interest to be given to poor persons. Deposited in Carhsle Savings Bank. Interest 12s. a year. Trustees : Minister and sides- men of Westward. Robert Jefferson's Charity. — Robert Jefferson, of Chalkside, left by will, in 1793, £100 for the stipport of poor persons in Westward not receiving parochial I'elief, or the education of their children. Invested in bank annuities. Interest, £8 17s. 2d. per annum. Trustees : Minister and churchwardens of Westward. Hodge's Charity.— Joseipli Hodge, of Highmoor House, left by will, in 1844, £000 for the clothing or main- tenance of poor -women in Westward, or the education of poor children. Interest, £21 per annum. Trustees ; William Banks, Joseph Rook, AVilliam Rook, Jane Pattinson, William Henderson, and John Banks. Hodgson's Chanty. — Joseph Hodgson, of Bracken- thwaite, left by will, in 1851, £50 to the poor of West- ward for their maintenance, or the education of their children. Nett sum £45, deposited in Carlisle Savings Bank. Interest, £1 7s. per annum. Trnstees : Per- petual curate and churchwardens of Westward. Stoneraise township includes the hamlets of Church- hill, Foresterfold, Red Dial, and Warblobank, with several dispersed and pleasantly situated dwellings bearing different names, among which are Greenhill House, Forest Hall, Rays Lodge, Stoneraise Place, Greenrig, Cunning Garth, Westward Parks, itc. At Westward Parks referred to above as the ground lying about New Hall, is a mansion belonging to General Wyndham, M.P. for West Cumberland, where he generally resides a few weeks in each year. Green- hill House is a large mansion, re-built about fifteen years ago, two miles south of Wigton, and the others arc from one and a half to two and a half miles from the same town. At Red Dial hamlet, which is about one mile and a half south of Wigton, fairs are held annually on the 1st of August, for sheep and wool, and on the 21st of September for sheep only. At the Red Dial Inn the manor courts are held, and here the magistrates meet monthly for the appointment of the surveyors of highways, overseers of the poor, the granting of licenses to publicans, and the transaction of other Ilekirk, in this township, had its name from the hermitage of St. Hilda, the foundation of which is now- unknown. It appears to have existed and been well known in the twelfth century, for King John granted "the hermitage of St. Hilda, which had before belonged to Roger the Hermit, to the abbey of Holme Cultram." On the suppression of the monastic institutions, Heniy VIIL, in 1543, granted the hermitage of Hildkirk or Ilekirk, with all the lands thereto belonging, to Thomas Dalston, Esq., who the next year ti-ansferred it to Anthony Barwis, gentleman, and it continued to be held by his descendants for some generations. One of the Barwis family, Richard Barwis, of whom we have spoken above, was famed for his gigantic stature. It is said he used to display his great strength by walking round the court yard of Ilekirk Hall, carrying, at arm's length, his wife on one hand, and a stone of prodigious size on the other. There is also a tradition that he once walked along Eden Bridge, Carlisle, with his fair spouse seated on his band, and elevated over the battlements. There is still to be seen at Ilekirk, a large stone, which it is asserted he could throw with ease the whole length of the court yard, though there are now few men who can raise it from the ground. About the latter end of the seventeenth century, the last of the Barwis fiimOy left two daughters, co-heiresses, the elder of whom married Major Foatherstonhaugh and died without issue ; the younger mai-ried Mr. Kuby, of a Lancashire family, and sold Ilekirk to Lancelot Emerson, from whom or from his daughter, it came to the Postlethwaites and Sleet families, and from them by purchase to Joshua Lucock, Esq., of Cockermouth ; and is now the pro- perty of Charles Featherstonehaugh, Esq. Ilekirk Hall, now a farm-house, is situated in a deep valley, near a small stream, about a mile west of the church. Old Carlisle, the ancient Olenacum, is situated in this township, nearly two miles south of Wigton. The station is a largo one ; the ruins of its ramparts and exterior buildings are boldly marked. A double ditch with intervening vallum seems to have surrounded the fort. The small river Wiza runs in a deep ravine WESTWARD PARISH. 267 immediately below the station on its west side, and at remoter distance, on its south also, thereby lending to it additional strength. The remains of suburban buildings may still be seen outside the walls, on the south, east, and west. Within the fort a street may be distinctly traced from the north to the south gate, and another from the east towards the west. Near the centre of the station is a moist spot of gi'ound where we may conceive a well to have been. Up to a recent period, the Koman roads leading from this station on the one hand, to Carlisle, and on the other to Maryport, were distiuctly visible. From this station the view is very extensive, especially towards the west, where it reaches to the sea, which is distinctly visible. Numerous remains of the Koman period of our history have been discovered here from time to time, consisting of sacrificial instruments, statues, altars, coins, inscrfp- tions, &c., several of which are in the possession of the gentry in the neighbourhood. The Messrs. Lysons give no less than thirteen inscriptions found here. In 1845 a Roman altar was dug up here, three feet two inches high, one foot five inches broad, and five inches thick, bearing the following inscription, which records its dedication to the goddess Bollona, by Rufinus, prefect of the cavalry of the Augustan Ala (or wingj and his son Lainianus : — DEAE BEL I.ON.E . V.TFI NVS. PKAE It now stands at the Red Dial Inn, in this parish. Of the many inscribed stones dug out of this station, one found in the year 1775, about 200 yards east of the camp, and now in the collection at Netherby, is pro- bably the most interesting. It bears the inscription — I[ovi] 0[ptiino] M[aximo] Pro salvt[e Imp[eratoris] L. Septim[ii] Severi Aug[vsti] nostri Eqvites Alae Avg[vstffi] cvrante Egnatio Vere Cvndo Pra ef[ectvs] posvervnti BEOCKLEBAKK. This township, which forms the southern extremity of the parish, comprises an area of 2,894 acres, and its rateable value is £1,685 5s. Its population prior to 1841 was returned with that of Stoneraise township; I To Jupiter best and greatest, for the safety of the Emperor Lucius Septimus Severus our Augustus; the cavidiy of the wiug sti/led the Augustan under the duection of Eguatius Verecundus Prefect placed this. in that year it was 171, and in 1851, 148. The principal landowner is General Wyndham. Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. ; Messrs. Thomas Milton, Joseph and Robert Coulthard, George Johnstone ; Miss Baty, Mary Todd, Mrs. Lumley, and some few others have also estates here. Brocklebank is a hilly district, bounded on the south by Caldbeck Parish. Clea HaU is situated in this township. This place was the seat of a younger branch of the Musgraves of Crookdake; by intermarriage with the female hen-, the inheritance passed to the Fletchers of Dearham; and is now the property of Sir Henry Fletcher, Bart. JUttbtrs Df Clfa iail. This family is descended from the Fletchers of Cockermouth. Henry Fletcher, Esq., of Cockermouth Castle, son of William Fletcher, Esq., of Cockermouth, by Ms wife, a daughter of Swinburn, of Huthwaite, had the trust of Mary Queen of Scots, when that princess journeyed from Workington. Mr. Fletcher treated his royal charge with all deference due to her regal stanon, and received from her a letter of thanks for the presentation of a robe of velvet. This gentleman died in 1574, leaving, with other issue, a son, Thomas Fletcher, Esq., of Cockermouth, who married Miss Jane Boleen, and had, with other issue, Eichartl, whose son, Sir Henry Fletcher, was created a baronet in IGIO, aud fell fighting for the house of Stuart, at the sku-- mish of Eowton Heath, in 1015, leaviug a son, George, 2nd baronet, father of Henrv, 3rd and last baronet, and of three daughters; the you'ugest of whom, Catherine, was married to Lionel Vnue, Esq., of Long Newton, ancestors of Sir Francis Fletcher Vane, Bart. PHiLn' The younger son, Philu' Fletcher, Esq., was grandfather of Eichard Fletcher, Esq., whose son. Major Phtt.tp Fletcher, died in 1744, at a very advanced age, leaving issue, I. John, his heir. II. Philip, surveyor-general of the province of Ulster; married Mary, daughter of the Eev. Mr. Twigg; and died in 170S, having had issue, 1. Philip, died unmarried. 2. Tliomas, killed at Detticgeu. o. Eichard, who mai'ried Anue Eleanor Scott, daughter of Aichibald Edmoustone, Esq.; aud died m 1782, leaving Philip, M.D. ; bom in 17D7. 4. Edwai-d of Lisbum, m holy orders; who died in 1777, leaving by Jane MmTay, his wife, three sous, Philip of Lisbum, in holy orders ; bom in 1751. Edward, in the East India Company's civil service ; born in 1763. James, born in 170^. I. Elizabetli, married to Humphrey Pearson, Esq. The elder son, John Fletcher, Esq., of Clea HaU, married 1st Mary, daughter of Evan Christian, Esq., by whom he had no sur- surviving issue; and 2ndly, Isabella, daughter and co-heir of John Senhouse, Esq., of Netherhall, co. Cumberland, by whom he had, I. Phihp, capt. in the army, died in 1712. IL John, also capt. in the army, died in 174S. 268 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. ni. George, cnpt. of Grenadiers, killed at Quebec iu 1709. IV. Lowther, heut. R.A., lost at sea in I75ti. T. Henkv, the first baronet. VI. Charles, capL of Murines. I. Grace, married to William Taylor, Esq. II. Jane, married to Thomas Benson, Esq. The fifth son, Henry Fletchee, Esq., of Clea Hall, liaTing been en- gaged in the sea servica of the East India Company, and subsequently chosen a member of its court of directors, was created a baronet 20th May, 1782. He married in 17C8, Catherine, daughter and sole heir of Henry Lintot, Esq., of South ^Vater, co. Sussex, by whom ho had a son and daugliter, Henbv and Catherine. Sir Henry represented the county of Cumberland in parliament for thirty-four years, from 17G8 to 1803. He died 'JOth March, 1807, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Henry, 2nd bai'onet, who manied 10th March, 1801, Frances Sophia, 4tli daughter of Thomas Wright Vaughan, Esq., of Woodstone, by whom he had surviving issue, Henry, lute baronet. John Philip, lorn in 1815. Sir Henry died 10 Aug., 1821, and was succeeded by his son, Sir Henry, .3rd baronet, born 18th Sept., 1807 ; who married 26th June, 1834, Emily Maria, 2nd daughter of George Brown, Esq., formerly member of council, Bombay, and had issue, I. Henry, present baronet. II. George Philip, bom in 1837 ; died in 1815. III. Edward, born iu 1841. IV. Lancelot, born iu 1S4(3. V. PhiUp, bom iu 184S. Ti. John Lowther, born in 18-51. 1. Emily, died m 184.5. II. Frances Sophia, died 1845. in. Edith. iv. Adelaide Maria. v. Alice, died 185]. Sir Henry died Cth Sept., 1851, and was succeeded by his eldest son. Sir Henry, 4th baronet, an officer in the Grenadier Guards born 24th September, 1835. C;-fa(Mn.— 20th May, 1782. Arms. — Sa., a cross, engrailed, arg., between four plates, each charged with an arrow of the first. Crest. — A horse's head, arg., charged with a ti-efoil, gu. Motto. — Martis non Cupidinis. Seat.— AsUey Park, Wolton-on-Thames, Surrey. The hamlet of Brocklebank is about five miles south- south-east of Wigton. Clea Green and Reathwaite are also hamlets iu this township. Clay Hall is now a farm-house. BOSLEY. The area of Rosley township is 2,947 acres, and its rateable value £2,851 10s. The united population of Eosley and Woodside in 1801 was 484 ; in 1811, 527 : of Rosley alone in 1821, 302 ; of Rosley and Woodside, in 1831, 050; of Rosley alone in 1841, 279; and in Rosley alone in 1851, 295. The principal landowners here are the Ecclesiastical Commissioners for England, General Wyndham, and Sir Wastel Brisco ; but Messrs. Joseph Jefferson, John Richardson, Joseph Rook, — Lea, Thomas Dockray, William Hodgson, Thomas Hodgson, William Rook, Thomas Hayton, William Pearson. Christopher Armstrong, John Roper, and George Wood have also estates. The village of Rosley occupies a delightful situation on the southern acclivity of an eminence, five miles east-south-east of Wigton, and nine south-by-west of Carlisle. It has long been noted for its large horse and cattle fairs, which are held on Whit-Monday, and on every alternate Monday after till Laminas-day. Two other lairs for cattle, horses, and sheep, established here iu 1845, are held on the 21st of April, and on the third Monday in October. Mr. T. Denton, writing in 1088, says, " that Rosley fair was then the best in all the north for Irish and Scotch horses, cattle, and sheep." Rosley Hill is a large piece of common. Brockenthwaite and Craggs are two hamlets in this township, the former being two and a half and the latter three miles south-east of Wigton. There is a school at Craggs. Woodside township contains 2,443 acres, and its rateable value is d£3,331. The number of its inhabi- tants was returned with Rosley till 1831, when it was 304; in 1831 it was again returned with Rosley; in 1841 it was 415; and in 1851, 404. Sir Wastel Brisco is the principal landowner ; besides whom John Taylor, Esq., Rev. Mr. Hewson, Messrs. John Jefferson, John Hewit, J. T. Cowen, Thomas Light- foot, Kelicker and Barnes, William AVood, John Gibson, Thomas Turtal, John Thompson, Robert Jefi'erson, Mary Todd, and Eliza Lowry, have also estates here. Here is a manor called Twenty Houses, the joint property of Sir Wilfrid Lawson and Sir Wastel Brisco. A meal tithe was levied on this manor by one of the lords of Inglewood Forest, for the support of the hounds which were kept at Forester Fold, and the inhabitants were subject to its payment till the enclosure of the commons, when land was allotted in lieu thereof. They are toll free at Rosley, Wigton, and Penrith. Westwoodside, Eastwoodside, East and West Curth- waite, Howrigg, and the Heights, arc all hamlets in this township, extending from two and a half to five miles east of Wigton. At the Heights there is a chapel of ease to Westward church, erected in 1840, at a cost of about .£700, raised by subscription, aided by a dona- tion of £70 from the Incorporated Society for Building Churches. It is endowed with £100, the interest being £4 a year. The site was given by the late Mr. Hodge. Previous to the enclosure of the common land, several trenches and other vestiges of encampments could be traced in this parish, particularly near the Heights, but most of them have been levelled, and large quanti- ties of stone removed from their sites. WESTWARD PARISH. 269 FLORA OF THE PAEISH OF WESTWAKD AND ITS IMMEDIATE NEIGHBOUEUOOD. There arc two circumstauces -n-bich materially influ- ence the growth and number of plants in any particular district — the quality of the soil and its elevation above the level of the sea. In both these respects the parish of Westward presents a considerable variety. On the north side, the ground along the river Wampool rises little above the sea level ; while on the south side, above Brocklebank, it attains the height of 800 or 900 feet. Between these extremes there is of course no little variety of surface. The quality of the soil is not less varied. Soil, we know, is but the worn-down parts of the subjacent rocks, mixed up with animal and vege- table organisms; and within the district of which we speak we have three great geological formations, the lower series of the new red sandstone, the coal measures, and the mountain limestone. There is also a small band of millstone grit crossing the higher part of the parish, but it is too small to influence the nature of the soil ; and at one or two places, as at Low-ling and at Shawk-beck, a limestone crops out strongly impregnated with, magnesia. This, however, is not the magnesian limestone, as appears from the fossils imbedded in it ; the limestone here mentioned containing very fine specimens of the beautiful fossil called by Mo'Tis " Strombodes floriforme," whicb does not extend beyond the mountain limestone. The sandstone lies on the north and east of the parish ; and e-x^celleut quarries have been opened at different points, particularly at Howrigg and Shawk, where some beautiful wliite freestone strata have been worked, supplying building stones to many parts of the county. The coal measures run from Ilekirk by Clea Hall and across Broadmoor, where many shallow pits have formerly been opened. It seems probable that a good band might be found at a greater depth, and many seams of cannel coal are yet unwrought. The mountain limestone composes the highest part of the parish. The difterence of these three great divisions is very well marked by the three kinds of primulsB found growing in the locality. On banks overlj-ing the sandstone we have the common primrose in abundance ; on the limestone soil the cowslip is equally abundant : and between these, on the wet clayey soil of the coal measures, the beautiful primula farinosa, (bird's-eye primrose,) grows in great numbers. There are not many plants of great rarity within the district ; per- haps the most uncommon is the toothwort, (lathrcea squamaria,) which is occasionally found in a wood near Ilekirk. We may also mention the tufted loosestrife, (lysimachia thyrsiflora,) growing on the Penrith road, through Eosley; the herb Paris, (Paris quadrifoha,) which grows abundantly near Clea Hall, a very pretty flower, with its four egg-shaped leaves, and golden anthers contrasting with the green petals ; the beauti- ful little pyrola minor, less winter green, with its slender cluster of drooping pale rose-coloured flowers, so very wax-like and delicate; the three different kinds of sun-dew, the round-leaved being very common but well worthy of close examination, its peculiar-shaped leaves are covered with glandular hairs from which e.xudes a viscid fluid shining like dew, and by which fhes are entangled, and supposed, though probably without reason, to contribute to the sustenance of the plant. Chicory grows near the Wi^a, at Church Hill. The greater bind-weed, (convolvolus sepium,) near Crof- ton toll-bar. In other places may be found the yellow asphodel, the enchanter's nightshade, the wild teasel, the mountain globe flower, the broad-leaved heleborine, the hemp agrimony, the sand garlic, the dwarf elder, and the great bell flower. Another beautiful flower, and in some places rare plant, is the grass of Parnassus, (Pamassia palustris.) The more we examine it, the more we are struck with the beauty displayed in its formation; its pure white flower leaves streaked with lines of green; its nectaries placed alternately with its stamens, and opposite the petals, each covered with a httle yellow globe, like the balls on an earl's coronet; its slender graceful stem and heart-shaped leaves point it out as one of the most elegant of our native plants, and forcibly remind us how exquisitely beautiful and how faultless are the works of the Almighty. The following list of plants growing in the parish, in addition to those above-mentioned, is subjoined not on account of their rarity, but in hopes that persons who have a taste for botany, one of the most innocent and entertaining of pursuits, may, in other localities com- pare it with the plants in their own neighbourhood and observing what additions can be made, in a short time a complete flora of the county might be compiled. We will first enumerate the grasses which have been ob- served growing naturally in the district ; and then the flowers arranged under the months in which they com- monly may be found in perfection. It is not easy to say what is the exact number of British flowers, be- cause some writers enumerate as species what others consider merely as varieties. Macgillevray, in his last edition of Withering, describes 1,462 species. If from them we deduct the trees, 52; the willows, 64; and the sedges, 61 ; we have remaining 1,285 : hence it will be seen that fully one-fourth of this number may be found in the small district of which we speak. 270 ALLERDALE - BELOW- DER'R'ENT WARD. The whole number of British gi'asses is 123. The followiug list contains 40. Almost all the rest are rare, growing only on high mountains, on the sea-shore or other particular places : — AnihoxaTithum odoraUim, sweet-scented spring grass. Phalaris arundinacea, reed Canary grass. Phleum pratense, cat's tail or Timothy. Alopecurus pratcnsis, meadow fox-tail. „ ajrestis, slender do. „ geniculatus, floating do. Milium ejfusupi, spreading millet grass. Agrostis canina, brown bent grass. „ vulgaris, fine do. „ alba, marsh do. Aira caspitosa, turfy liair grass, „ Jlextiosa, wavy do. „ cari/ophyllia, silver do. Solcas avenaceus, oat-like soft grass. „ mollis, creeping do. „ lanatus, meadow do. Melica uniHora, wood melic grass. „ ccerulea, pm-ple do. Glyceriajluitam, floating sweet grass. Briza media, common quaking grass. Poa trivialis, rough meadow grass, „ pratensis, smooth do. „ annua, annual do. Dactylys glomerata, code's foot. CynosuTus cristatus, crested dog's tail. Festuca ovina, sheep's fescue. „ duriuscula, hard do. „ gigantea, great do. „ loUucea, spiked do. „ pratensis, meadow do. „ elatior, tall do. „ sylvatica, slender wood fescue. Bromus mollis, soft brome grass. „ asper, hairy wood do. „ sterilis, barren do. Lolium perennc, rye grass. Avena pratensis, narrow-leaved oat grass. „ flavescens, yellow do. Triticum repens, couch grass, j's wheat. A few of these grasses grow only in marshes or watery places ; as the reed Canary grass, the floating fox-tail, the floating sweet grass. Others in woods, as tlie millet and melic grasses, the great, the tall, and the wood fescues, and the hairy brome grass. The agrostis alba is called by some the famous florin grass, said to be the most productive grass ever cultivated. The rest are excellent pasture grasses. Three are troublesome on account of their creeping roots, called twitch, the holcus avenaceus, mollis, and triticum repens. All are perennial except the annual meadow grass, slender fox-tail, silver hair grass, and bromus sterilis. Those flowers are omitted which, though growing wild in some places, are here found only in gardens, as the snowdrop, tulip, and such like. In February it can scarcely be said that any plants commence flowering, because those which arc then to be found in flower are such as flower throughout the whole year, as chickweed, groundsel, and deadnettle. In ilarch appear the pile wort, or less celandine, coltsfoot, dog's violet, wild strawberry, butter bur, shep- herd's purse, hairy cardamine, and a few others. In April, mosohatel, wall cress, wood anemone, water starwort, bitter cardamine, lamb's lettuce, ground ivy, wood sorrel, goldilocks, spurwort, rue-leaved saxifrage, early orchis, and dog's mercury. In May, bugle, rampsons, cuckoo pint, woodruff, earth nut, gout weed, wood saniole, crosswort, corn gromwell, wood loosestrife, mercury, beaked parsley, sweet cicely, water parsnip — the least of the umbeli- ferous order — harebell, golden saxifrage, meadow saxi- frage, stitchwort, sandwort, common avens, celandine; ivy leaved, bulbous, and ivater crowfoot ; several speed- wells, bilberry, marsh marigold, toadflax, lady's smock, gariick, hedge mustard, bush vetch, birdsfoot, meadow orchis, cow berry, and sweet gale. In June, marsh speedwell, butterwort, valerian, several bedstraws, lioary, sea-side, and buckshorn plan- tain, forget-me-not, bogbean, sheepsbit, pansy, night- shade, wild carrot, arrow grass, cranberry, bistort, com cockle, red and wliite campion, agrimony, water avens, creeping cinquefoil, spearwort, henbit, lousewort, yellow toadflax, water cress, meadow wood, jagged and dove's foot cranebill, fumitory, milkwort, broom, rest harrow, kidney vetch, bitter vetch, goat's beard, hawkweed, hawk's beard, carline thistle, mountain cudweed, com marigold, feverfew, butterfly orchis, frog orchis, spotted orchis, and aromatic orchis, twayblade, orache. In July, common stonewort, yellow iris, bristle- stalked club rush, reed, wild teasel ; small, field, and bitter scabions ; vipers, bugloss, centaury, marsh penny, fool's parsley, hemlock, hemlock dropwort, burnet saxifrage, water purslane, water plantain, several willow herbs, sea campion, red sandwort, wild wood, stone bramble, rook rose, betony, hemp nettle, wound- wort, red bartsia, eyebrigut, cow wheat, figwort, Pep- perwort, musk mallow, wood vetch, hairy and smooth tare; common, trailing, mountain, hairy, square, and upright St. John's wort, wall lettuce, rough and autumn hawlcbit, cat's ear, nipplewort, sawwort, hemp agrimony, wormwood, mugsvort, golden rod, sneezewort, knap- weed, blue bottle, and burreed. In August, marsh bodstraw, curled pondweed, pepper saxifrage, autumal gentian, yellow saxifrage, purple WESTWAED PAEISH. 271 loosestrife, marsh woundwort, wild basil, Liglilaiid cud- weed, and bornwort. In September, biting persicaria, perennial knawel, and dwarf whin. HOSSES. These form a numerous family of the cryptogamic class, and present very interesting objects of contempla- tion with a microscope. The beautifully dotted leaves of the thread moss, and the seed vessels of all the different kinds, are well worthy of inspection. Fii-st we find a slender stalk surmounted by an egg-shaped cup, and this cup surrounded generally with one or two sets of fringes : then a neatly fitting lid, and over all a fairy like umbrella, altogether forming a receptacle for the almost invisible seed that must excite our admira- tion. It is curious to observe that the number of teeth in the fringes is always either four or eight, or sixteen, or thirty-two or sixty-four ; no intermediate number is ever found. The number of British mosses is about 3^0. Some of these are found only in the highest mountains. Eighty-five have been observed in this locality. Of these, about twenty-three sorts belong to the hypnums, or feather mosses ; some of which are very fine, as the triquetrous, the prcelongus, the proliferous, the tree- like, and several others. The water moss, abundant in streams, with its dark three-cornered stems, is anoth?r fine moss ; so is the curled neckera, which is found near Clea Hall, the same kind of moss which grows so luxuriantly on rocks overhanging the mouth of the cave on the braes of Lochaber, in which the Pretender took refuge after his defeat at CuUoden. Perhaps the most beautiful of our mosses is the apple moss, with its light green leaves and perfectly round capsules on tall slender stalks. Several of the bryums, or thread mosses, are very fine, particularly the bryum ligulatum, with its long strap-shaped leaves and several seed stalks springing from the top of one stem. The bryum argenteum looks hke a catkin of the hazel frosted with silver. The bristle mosses grow principally on trees : the hygrometric cord moss where charcoal has been burnt. Then we have several kinds of hair moss — the dwarf, the urnbearing, and the great broom hair moss — all with two veils, or umbrellas, instead of one. The lattice moss, with its bright red teeth netted together ; the screw moss, with its twisted fringe ; the fork moss ; the fringe moss, with greatly divided teeth : the twin toothed moss ; the hoary grimmia, covering our moun- tainous pastures ; the extinguisher moss, with its veil so exactly resembling the extinguisher of a caudle ; the four-toothed moss ; the branched beardless moss : the bog moss, and the earth moss. Some of the last are so small as scarcely to be visible to the naked eye ; and, lastly, the split moss, the capsule of which opens so differently from most other mosses, being divided into four valves perpendicularly instead of having its top cut off hoiizontally. FERN'S. In the splendid volume of Nature-Printed Ferns, by Bradbury, the number of British species is reckoned to be forty-five. Of these, we have in this parish twenty. Some of the specimens grow most luxuriantly, and attain a very large size. The moonwort, one of our prettiest ferns, is found in great numbers in the grounds belonging to General Wyndham, at Hill Top ; and the oak fern, a handsome species, with its three delicate light green branches, is common in shady places. The foUowing is the list of species : — Common polybody, beech fern, oak fern, parsley fern, lobate shield fern, broad buckler fern, prickly toothed fem, mountain fern, male fern, lady fem, black spleenwort, green ditto, maiden hair ditto, rue-leaved ditto, hard fem, common brakes, brittle fern, hart's tonge, moon- wort, adder's tongue. OENITHOLOGT OF WESTWARD. Birds, with respect to any given locality, may be divided into four classes — constant residents, summer visitants for the sake of breeding, winter visitants for food, and occasional visitors or stragglers which some chance had diiven to the place. There may be dif- ference of opinion as to the birds to be included in any of these classes ; nor need we be surprised at this ; it is the same in all classification whatever devised by the art of man. Every class has its transitional forms which run into some adjoining class. Even the line which separates the great kingdoms of nature is invisi- ble; and men of the highest attainments in natural science have disputed whether certain objects which lie on the boundary between the animal and vegetable kingdom do really belong to the one or the other. Among our birds this remark applies to the wagtails ; they evidently increase in numbers about tlie breeding season, yet some are found at all times. of the year. They are partly migrant, therefore, and partly resident. Then, again, with regard to the common guU and the heron, they neither breed in the district, nor are they driven from more northern climates for winter food, and yet they may be found occasionally at all times. The whole number of British bh-ds, according to Yarrel, is 337. Of these 125 are residents, 50 sum- mer visitants, 88 winter visitants, and 124 stragglers. Leaving out this last class as of no value iu inquuing into the ornithology of any district, we have m West- ward 49 of the first class, 25 of the second, and sLx of 272 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. the third, or 80 birds in all. The greatest diflference is in the winter visitants, and this arises from the parish being at some distance from tlie sea, and without any lakes or fens, so that we derive no accession either from the swimming or wading class of birds which are so numerous in other places in winter; while it may be noticed that of fifty birds that migrate to Great Britain in summer, twenty-five are common to this neighbourhood. In the recollection of the writer, one or two very noticeable changes have taken place as to the number of particular kinds of birds. Forty or fifty years ago starlings were very rare birds indeed ; now they are very common. The goldon-crested wren, too, has increased very much of late, while the bittern or mire drum, once not uncommon, is now entirely ban- ished, and the buzzards, or gleads, as they were called, are only occasionally seen. Of the birds of prey we have seven residents, merlin, kestrel, sparrow hawk, common buzzard (now rare), common harrier, white or barn owl, and tawny owl. Of perching birds thirty-two are residents, water ousel, missel thrush, song thrush, blackbird, robin, gold- crested wren, blue titmouse, greater titmouse, coal tit- mouse, long-tailed titmouse, hedge sparrow, pied wag- tail, yellow wagtail, crow, jackdaw, rook, magpie, jay, starling, greenfinch, goldfinch, grey linnet, less redpole, house sparrow, chaftinch, common bunting, yellow bunting, reed bunting, skylark, bulfinch, wren, king- fisher. Twenty summer visitants : Wheatear,whiuchat, stonechat, redstart, blackcap, whitethroat, sedge warbler, grasshopper warbler, wood warbler, willow warbler, titlark, tree pipit, spotted flycatcher, common creeper, cuckoo, goatsucker, common swallow, martin, land martin, swift. Three winter visitants : Fieldfare, red wing, and snow bunting (frequently.) Of the rasores, or scraping birds, we have five resi- dents : Wood pigeon, black grouse, red grouse, par- tridge, and pheasant. One summer visitant : The quail. Of wading birds, four residents : Heron, snipe, golden plover, and water hen. Four summer visitants : Sand piper, corncrake, curlew, and lapwing. Two winter visitants : Woodcock and jacksuipe. Of the swimming birds we have only one resident, the common wild duck, and two that occasionally visit us at all seasons, the teal and the gull. WIGTON PARISH. The parish of Wigton is bounded on the north by the parishes of Kirkbride and Holme Cultram, on the west by Bromfield, on the south by Bolton and Westward, and on the east by Aikton and Thursb}'. It is about five miles in length by three in breadth, and consists generally of low, dry, and fertile land, the soil varying from loam, clay, and gravel. Plenty of red freestone is found here, but no coal or limestone. It is intersected by the Wiza, and several small brooks and rivulets, and contains a small lake called Martin Tarn, in which pike, perch, &c., are found. AVigtou parish comprises the townships of Wigton, Oulton, Wavertou, and Woodside, whose united area is 1 1,800 acres. The Mar3'port and Carlisle railway runs through the parish. Adam had issue Odai'd the second, whose son and heir, WIGTON. The population of the township of Wigton iu 1801 was 2,450; iu 1811, -2,977; in 1821,4,056; in 1831, 4,885; in 1841, 4,738; and in 1851, 4,568. The rateable value is £10,528. The barony of Wigton was anciently demesne of Allerdale, until Waltheof, son of Gospatric, earl of Dunbar, gave it to Odard do Lucy, whose posterity took their name from the place. At that time the barony contained Wigton, Waverton, Blencogo, Dun- draw, and Kirkbride, with Oulton, each of which town- ships is still a manor within itself, known by metes and bounds, and lies in the barony of Wigton. Henry I. confirmed Waltheof 's grant to Odard, who lived until the reign of King John, so that he must have attained a respectable old age. This Odard had issue Adam, and Adam the second, dying without issue, the inheritance came to his brother Walter, who had issue Odard the third. The latter died without issue, as did also another Odard, upon which their brother, John de Wigton, son of Walter, came into possession. This John had an only daughter, who was married to John Gernon, and in the reign of Edward IH. was impleaded for her birthright, in consequence of which, her mother, Idonisa Lovctot, was for a time kept out of her dower, but she afterwards regained it. Shortly after the demise of the wife of John Gernon, Wigton barony came to Thomas Lucy, lord of Allerdale, "and thereby," say Nicolson and Burn, " in right the seigniory of Wigton was extinguished, and became again part of the ancient barony of Allerdale, though it is still taken and reputed WIGTON PARISH. 273 83 a distinct barony." From the Lucies Wigton came to the Pcrcies, earls of Northumberlaud, together with the rest of the estates of that family. When Henry Percy, carl of Northumberland, was attainted in J 578, a survey was made of the barony of Wigton, when it was found tliat Wigton was an ancient barony, and " hath been of long time the inheritance of the ancestors of the said earl . . . and was of ancient time holden of the kings of this realm by knight's service, cornage, &c., and is now holden by the last letters patents, together with all the lands belonging to the said earl- dom by part of a knight's fee." From the same MS. we learn that the barony at that time comprised the towns of Wigton, Waverton, Dundraw, Kirkbride, and Oulton, " the which two last-named are accompted both for one town ; and there is also the hamlets of Rosenen, Kirkland, Woodside, Aiton, and others, within which circuit the said earl hath the liberties, royalties, and privileges of court barren from three weeks to three weeks ; a court leet at two times in the year, viz., within one month next after the feast of Easter, and -within one mouth after the feast of St. Michael the Archangel ; and also by a charter bearing date at West- minster, the third day of February, anno regni Henrici Tertii 40 (1202), one market weekly at the town of Wigton on Tuesday, with one fair there every year, to endure for three days, viz., the even, the day, and the morrow after the feast of the nativity of our Saviour, with all things to a market and fair belonging: And also the lorJs of the said manor and barony have bad and used within their limits and bounds, free- warren and all things thereto belonging ; and also have bad and used, through all the wastes and commons within the said barony according to the limits thereof before set down (excepting Dockwray Moss and Mon-es Moss), free search and drift yearly ; and all goods and chattels found there by the said search of any foreigner and other persons not having liberty or interest of com- mon there were taken, distreyned, and impounded, or detayned until such times as the owners thereof did compound and agree and make amends for their depas- turing there, to the use of the lord of the manor. And all trespasses committed upon the said wastes or com- mons by any person by improving or taking up any part thereof, without license of the lord, or in digging of turfe, pulling of hng, or any such like offence there committed, have always been inquired of and presented at the courts of the said manor or barony, and there punished by the way of amerciament or otherwise, as the offence required." The following list of the freeholders of Wigton at this period, extracted from the same inquisition, now printed for the first time, will no doubt be interesting to our readers : — AT WIGTON. "Leonard Dykes holdeth two tenements at Tufos- thwaite, in socage tenure and rent at the feast of the nativity of our Lord, pr. ann. 13s. The same Leonard holdeth six acres of land at Guildrigg by like services, and payeth yearly at the feast abovesaid, 8d. " Anthony Curwen holdeth two tenements at High- moor by homage, fealtie and suit of court, and payeth by year at the feast of St. Martin and Pentechost, 8s. The same Anthony holdeth ten acres of meadow in Coldmire, late the lands of John Lamb, by like services, and rend. pr. ann. 5s. "Jo. Thompson and Tho. Thompson hold certain lands at Wigtou by like service, late the lands of Robert and Michel Thompson, viz. ; two acres, 2s. ; four acres of land lying at the foot, Ss. lOd. ; six acres of land at Howrigg, 3s. O^d. ; three acres of land at Coldmire, 3s. ; two crofts. Is. Od. ; a tenement and certain lands, called Longmoor, Is. 2d. ; and one tenement, Od., late the lands of John Thompson, and rend. pr. ann. 15s. 6id. " Cuthbert Grainger holdeth there a tenement with an acre of land, late the lands of Alexander Highmoor, by like services, and rend. pr. ann. 2s. 4d. "Jo. Tifin holdeth there a tenement called the Longmoor, late the lands of Michael Thompson, by like services, and the 13th mulcture, and rend. pr. ann. Is. 8d. " Bartholomew Lamplugh, William Scot, and Wil- liam Han-ison, hold there two tenements, one acre of land, and two acres of meadow, rend. 5s. 5d. " Jo. Daker holdeth at Wigton aforesaid an acre of meadow in Broading, late the lauds of Adam Perts, by like services aforesaid, and rend. pr. ann. Id. " The same Jo. Daker holdeth there two tenements in p'tiu', late Adam Perts' by the like services, and payeth for the one 7s., and for the other 2s., in toto, pr. ann. 9s. " Cuthbert Studholme holdeth two parts of one tene- ment, and Helen, late wife of Robert Tifin, holdeth the third part, late the lands of Robert Highmoor, by like services, the sd. Cuthbert payeth 2s. 4d., and the sd. Helen Is. 2d., in toto, 3s. 6d. " Jo. Dogeson, holdeth there a tenement late William Lydall's by like services, and payeth by the year at the said feasts. Is. Od. " Anthony Barwis, Esq. holdeth there a tenement, late Robert Highmoor, by like service, and rend. pr. ann. 2s. "Jo. Tifin holdeth there a toft and certain lands 274 ALLERDALE - BEIOW - DERWKNT WARD. called Brekenlands, late the lands of Jo. Adamson, liy like services, and rend. 2s. 9d. "Michael Jackson boldeth there a tenement, late William Morpitb, by like service, and reud. pr. ann. 5s. 8d. " Anthony Barwis, Esq , holdeth there a tenement or tofte in p'tiu' by like services, and rend. pr. ann. 9s. 9d. "Edward Rook holdeth there au acre of land at the Longmoor by like service, and rend. pr. ann. 8d. " The heirs of Henry Painter holdeth there a mes- suage and seven acres of land, late the lands of the said Henry by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, and by the service, IJd. to cornage, and payeth free rents at the feasts aforesaid, Is. " The heirs of William Aiked holdeth a messuage, a cottage, and two crofts, by like service as is aforesaid, and by the service of lid. cornage, and the twenty- sLx moulture, which said lands were sometimes the lands of William Aiked, and payeth yearly at the feast aforesd. 8d. " The heirs of Tho. Barwis holdeth an acre of land in the south end of Wigton, late the land of Nicholas Lowther, by like services, and payeth by year 2s. " The heirs of Cuthbert Briscoe holdeth there a tenement called Longmoor, late the lands of Nicholas Lowther afsd., by like services, and rend., pr. ann., 8d. " Richard Studholme, jun., holdeth a messuage called the West End, and forty acres of land, late the lands of Nicholas Lowther afsd., by like services, and rend, pr. ann. Id. "The same Richard holdeth four acres of land, sometimes the land of Alex. Lowther, and late the lands of Nicholas Lowther afsd., by like service, and rend. pr. ann. 5s. Od. " The heirs of Tho. Barwis holdeth three acres of land lying at Lideat, alias Galabar, and another acre there by like sen'ices, rend, per ann. at the aforesaid feasts for the said three acres Is. 2|d., and for the said one acre 3s. 9d., in toto pr. ann. 4s. 4^d. " Richard Richardson holdeth there one tenement and one acre of land, late the lands of the said Nicholas Lowther by like services, and payeth yearly at the feast afsd. Is. " The heirs of Cuthbert Brisco holdeth there a tene- ment called Longmoor, late the lands of Nicholas Lowther by like services, and rend. pr. ann. 6s. 2d. " The heirs of Leonard Brisco holdeth there a parcel of land called the Black Acre, in the east end of Wigton, late the lands of the said Nicholas Lowther, rend. pr. ann. at the feast afsd. Is. 4d. " The heirs of Tho. Barwis holdeth there at Wigton six acres of land, called the Untlauds, late the lands of Alex. Lounde, and late the lands of Nicholas Lowther afsd., and rend. pr. ann. Is. 4d. " Richard Studholme, jun., holdeth there a messuage and twelve acres of laud, late the lands of William Barker, and late the lands of the afsd. Nicholas Lowther, by like service, and payeth by year at the feast before named for cornage 1 Jd., for free rent 8s. 4d. " The heirs of William Carpenter holdeth a messuage and six acres of land, late the lands of William Car- penter, and late the lands of the said Nicholas Lowther, by like services, and rend. pr. ann., at the feast above- named, Id. " Richard Studholme, jun., holdeth there a messuage and three acres of land, late the lands of Jo. Crosby and Nicholas Lowther, by like services, and for coraage l^d., and thirteen moulter, and payeth for free rent pr. ann. at the feast aboveraentioned, 4s. 4d. " The heirs of Nicholas Lowther holdeth there one acre of land, late the land of the said Nicholas by the like service, and payeth yearly ad fest., 6d. " The heirs of Robt. Gothieson holdeth a messuage and one acre of laud, late the lands of the said Robt. Gothieson, by like service, and payeth by year ad fest. before named for cornage l^d. the thirteen moulter, and for free rent, 4s. 4d. " The heirs of Nicholas Lowther holdeth two acres of arable land and half an acre of meadow, late the lands of the said Nicb., by like services, and payeth by year at the feasts aforesaid, 2s. 7d." A few pages further on we find that the tenants of the town of Wigton pay yearly to the lord for corn- age, 13s. 4d ; seawake, 2s. ; and for turnsilver, 7s. 6d. : in tnto pr. ann., 23s. 4d. From the Lucies, Wigton passed by marriage to the Duke of Somerset, from whom it has come by inheri- tance to its present proprietor. General Wyndham. The principal landowners in the township of Wigton are Miss Aglionby, Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; Jlessrs. John Martindale, John Glaister, John Taylor, Joseph Henderson, Edward Fidler, Joseph Skelton, John Hodgson, and John Mandriel. TUE TOWN OF WICTOX. The town of Wigton is situated near the right bank of the river Wiza, in 51° l!l' north latitude, 3° 9' west longitude, distant eleven miles south-west from Carlisle, 303 miles north-north-west from London by road, and 312 by the North-Westeni and Lancaster and Carlisle railways. Its population in 1851 was 4,244, of which 2,011 were males and 2,233 females, inhabiting 957 houses, besides which 52 houses were uninhabited, and two were in course of erection. WIGTON PARISH. 275 Wigton consists cliiefly of one long and tolerably wide street, which is lighted with gas, and contains many well- built houses. The principal manufactures are checks, ginghams, and calicoes ; some linen is also made. Tanning, nail making, brewing, and malting, are carried on, besides several other branches of industry. The market, which is held on Tuesday, is well supplied with com and all kinds of provisions ; a great market for butchers' meat, apples, and honey, is held on St. Thomas' Day. Fairs are held on the 20th of February and 5 th of April, the former for horses, and the latter for cattle and merchandise, &c. Wigton is one of the polling places for the eastern division of the county. Petty sesions are held every alternate Tuesday, at the police station; a county court for the recovery of debts under £50 is also held here. THE CHUECH. Wigton parish church, dedicated to St. IMary, is a handsome structure, containing about 1,000 sittings, and was erected in 1788 on the site of a former edifice, said to have been built by Odard, first baron of Wigton, with materials taken from the Roman station of old Carlisle in the neighbourhood of the town. It contains monuments to the memory of Colonel Thomas Barwis, who died in 1048; the Rev. John Brown, vicar of Wigton, 1763 ; and the Rev. Lowther Yates, D.D., master of Catherine Hall, Cambridge, who died in 1798. A splendid organ has recently been pre- sented to this church by G. Moore, Esq., of London, a native of this neighbourhood. It cost £320, and was opened on the '20th January, 1859. Margaret de Wigton gave the church to the abbey of Holme Cultram, to which it was soon afterwards appropriated, that the com- munity might find " four chaplains, monks of their own house, to perform divine service in the chiu'ch of the abbey, and two secular chaplains to officiate in a chantry of the church of St. Mary, at Wigton, for the soul of the said Margaret, and of her husband, John Gernon, and of her ancestors, and of all faithful people." Shortly after the church of Wigton was granted to the abbey, upon the petition of Thomas de Talcane, then abbot of Holme Cultram, and his convent to Bishop liirkby; the bishop and his commissaries, Robert de Soulhayke and John de Burden, confirmed the appropriation, and ordained that there should be a perpetual vicar, who should have an annual stipend of twenty -six marks of silver, to be paid by the abbot and convent, and one messuage and ten acres of arable land in the vill of Kirkland, and one acre of land in the vill of Wigton, near to the mansion- house, but reserving to the bishop the collation to the benefice, in recompense of the diminution of the episco- pal right occurring by such appropriation. After the dissolution of the monastic institutions of this country. Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent, dated February 9th, 15S8, granted the corn tithes of the villages of Wigton, Waverton, and Oulton, to Edward Downinge and Miles Dodding, who assigned the same to Robert Petrie, whose heu'. Sir John Petrie, disposed of them to Richard Fletcher, of Cockermouth, for £6D0. James I., by letters patent, granted the remainder to the rectory, with the exception of the tithes of eggs, geese, and apples, to Francis Morice, Esq., and Francis Philips ; who, in the year 1015, assigned the same to the Richard Fletcher above-mentioned. The same monarch, in 1607, granted the tithes of eggs, geese, and apples to Lewis Owen and William Blake, from whom they passed to the house of Crofton. These tithes have since been commuted. The rectorial tithes belonged to Sir Frede- rick Fletcher Vane, Bart., as impropriator; but he obtained an act of parliament to convert them into other property, and sold them to the proprietors of the land. The benefice is a vicarage, valued in the King's Book at £17 19s. 9d., and having been augmented with £450, obtained from Queen Anne's Bounty, and a yearly rent charge of £13, left by the Rev. John Thompson, is now worth about £150 a year. Efforts are now being made to further augment the living. The Bishop of Carlisle is patron. Rectors.— James de DaUIegh, 1308; WiUiam de Hilton, ].317; Adam de Stayngrave, ; Gilbert de Wyggeton, 1333. VicAKS.— Henry de Appleby, 1336 ; Thomas de CuUerdane, ; Richard de Aslacby, 1359; William de Cressop, ; Richard Damysell, 13G7; William de Hayton, 13G3; John de Welton, 13G0; John King, ; William Lowden, 1572; William Lowson, 1592; Thomas Warcoppe, 1612: John Cham- bers, 1601; Henry Geddis, lU7i; John Brown, 171i; "Wilfrid Clarke, sen., 1705; Wilfrid Clarke, jun., 1802; John Dodd, 1801; J. Ii-ving, 1826 ; W. Lyde, 1857. There was a free chapel at or near Wigton attached to the hospital of St. Leonard, the lands belonging to which were granted by Edward VI. to Thomas Dalston and William Denton. This hospital is supposed to have been at a place called Spital, nearly a mile east of the town, now the property of Sir Wastel Biisco, Bart. CHAEITIES. The School. — Wigton Free Grammar- School, situated in Market Hill, was erected about the year- 1 730. It is stated in a memorandum added to a list ot the principal inhabitants of Wigton, in the year 1714, that a free school should be erected, with convenient lodgings for a master and usher, towards which each inhabitant should contribute £1 for every Id. they paid to the purvey ; and that those who would not pay, and their heirs, should be excluded from having any more benefit in the school than foreigners. From the same list it 276 ALLERDALE- BELOW- DERWENT WARD. appears that the family of Thonilinsons subscribed very largely to this establishment. The original endowment of the school also appears to have been raised by con- tribution. In a deed of re-lease, dated 21th August, 1724, it is recited that an agreement had been here- tofore made between the Rev. John Thomlinson, rector of Rothbury, then deceased, and the parishioners of Wigton, whereby the latter had bound themselves to raise a sum of £417 5s. Od. to be laid out in a rent charge of £20 6s. 8d., for the endowment of a free school or charity school at Wigton, and that in pur- suance of such agreement the said sum had been paid into the hands of the said John Thomlinson. He died, however, before the said rent charge was settled ; and by his will, dated 12th February, 17 19, after leaving to the vicarage of Wigton for the time being £13 per annum out of that part of his rent-charge paid by Robert Smith, of Haughton, in Northumberland, he left to the churchwardens of Wigton, and their successors, for the use of the free school, such a further sum as should answer what he had of them, at the rate of five per cent. It appears that previous to the 24th of August, 1724, the executors settled a rent charge of £20 Os. 8d. upon the free school, payable out of the Haughton estate iu Northumberland. Since the first establish- ment of the school several persons have purchased their freedom, and the following bequests have been made : — John Allison, by will, dated 20lh April, 1787, £1,000 stock at three per cent, reduced, to the ministers and churchwardens of Wigton, the interest thereof to be by them paid to the two schoolmasters of the free school at Wigton, share and share alike, upon condition that they should constantly teach four boys that should not belong to the parish of Wigton. Thomas Thomlin- son, Esq., by will, dated 16th April, 1798, bequeathed to this school a third part of the residue of his personal property.' The sum received by the trustees in respect of this legacy amounted to £353. The only additional property belonging to the school is a small parcel of land consisting of two roods thirty perches, which was allotted to it on the enclosure of a common in the parish. The income is now upwards of £70 a year, about £28 of which is paid to the usher, and the remainder to the master. According to the rules and orders for tho regulation of the school, " the head master shall teach in Latin and Greek, gratis, the children of all such, as by contributing to raise the salary of the school, have made their houses free. And that the school may not be burdened with a number of foreigners, he shall not teach any but who are free for a less sum than five shillings a quarter. The under > See Thursbj parisli, page 202, for a more detailed account. master shall teach all the children of such as are free to read, write, cypher ; and those that intend to advance to the head master, he sliall teach them the accidence ; and all these gratis ; nor shall he take any foreigners under his care for less premium than 2s. 6d. per quar- ter, or any whatever till they can read the Testament." The rules further ordain that the under master " shall be paid out of the income of the school ; the fourth part of the school income, and all the rest of that income, together with the dwelling-house, to belong to the head master." Whenever a vacancy happens, the head master and usher are to be elected by a majority of all such as are free to the school, and appear to that pur- pose, when due notice of their meeting has been given in the church. Four boys are taught free under the will of John Allison. They are appointed according to the directions of the testator, by the heir of the late Henry AUisou, of Aspatria, to whom the nomination of the first four boys was assigned. All the children, boys or girls, of the occupiers of the tenements that belonged either to the original contributors, or to those who have since purchased their freedom, are admitted into the school upon the payment of a certain quarterage. Until about six years previous to the publication of the report of the Charity Commissioners, they were all taught free, but the occupiers of the free tenements then agreed that the master should be permitted to demand 3s. a quarter for each of the children learning Latin or Greek, and the usher 2s. 6d. for every one learning reading, writing, or arithmetic. Widoiv's Hospital. — This institution was founded iu 1724 for six indigent widows of Protestant beneficed clergymen, by the Rev. John Thomlinson, M.A., rector of Rothbury, Northumberland, who endowed it with a yearly rent-charge of £45. 12s., to be paid out of lands at Haughton, in that county ; £6 a year out of lands near Gateshead, in the county of Durham ; and £0 per annum out of lands at Bleucogo, besides a yearly rent- charge of £3. lO.s., which was purchased in the latter estate, with the £100 left by Mrs. Read, of Carlisle, sister to Dr. Thomlinson, one of the e.\ecutors to the will of the founder. The hospital is incorporated by the name of the Governors and Sisters of the College of Matrons, or Hospital of Christ, iu Wigton. Widows of clergymen in the diocese of Chester, also those of the parish of Rothbury, in Northumberland, and Whick- ham, in the county of Durham, are eligible to this charity. Widows of clergymen who have served as curates in any of the above places for two years, are, according to the tenor of the regulations, also eligible : but those of a beneficed clergyman are to have the preference. No widow is aduiitted under forty-six WIGTON PARISH. ayr years of age. £0 a year is paid to eacli of the six inmates, aud 10s. extra is paid to the eldest, who is appointed governess. They have each three apartments in the hospital, which is a neat edifice on the north side of the church. The chancellor of the diocese, the rectors of Aikton aud Caldbeck, and the vicars of Brom- field aud Wigton, are the governors. Barwis' Charity. — An account of the origin and history of this charity is given in our account of West- ward Parish. The annual sum of ten shillings, as therein stated, is paid over to the vicar of Wigton, and by him distributed as directed. Thomas Thomlinson's Bequest for the Poor. — Thomas Thomlinson,by will, dated IGth April, 1798, bequeathed to the poor of Wigton £00, to be distributed by the ministers and churchwardens for the time being, amongst the most industrious and deserving, in such a manner that their ordinary allowance from the parish should not be lessened thereby. The charity is distri- buted by the -vicar, according to the expressed wishes of the donor. John Thomlinson's Gift to the Vicar. — John Thom- linson, by will, dated 12th February, 1719, left to the vicar of Wigton £13 per annum, part of a rent-charge, payable out of the Haughton estate, in Northumber- land. Wigton and Oulton Quarters, Barnes' Charity. — John Grainger, by will, reciting that his brother, John Barnes, had bequeathed to him £30, to be laid out for raising the sum of -IDs. a year, to be distributed by the churchwardens and overseers of the poor of Wigton and Oulton quarters, amongst the poor of the said quarters, on the 25th May and the 25th December, yearly, two-thirds thereof to the poor of Wigton aud one-third to the poor of Oulton ; and reciting that he had not met with an opportunity of laying out the same, charged all his free and customary lord's rents issuing out of several laads and tenements in the town- ships of Oulton, Kirkland, Longtbwaite, Lowhouses and Waverton, in the parish of Wigton, with a pay- ment of 40s. yearly, to be distributed as aforesaid, until £50, or sufficient to raise the sum of 40s. yearly should be otherwise laid out. The money received on account of this charity is divided into three parts, two of which are paid over to the overseers of Wigton quarter, and the third part to those of Oulton quarter, and distri- buted as directed. Sanderson's Charity. — Eichard Sanderson, Esq., of Norbury House, Croxton, in the county of Surrey, merchant and citizen of London, but a native of this neighbourhood, by will, dated September, 1S36, be- queathed £5,000 bank stock, three per cent, consols, upon trust, to the vicar, churchwardens, and overseers for the time being, after the death of Honor Thompson, the interest thereof to be distributed by them on the iiOth December, in each year, amongst twenty poor persons, of either sex, born and resident in the parish of Wigton, who shall have attained the age of fifty years; each person to recejpe not less than £3, nor more than £10. Hodye's Bequest. — Mr. Joseph Hodge, manufacturer, of Wigton, who died 27th March, 1846, bequeated to trustees £1,500, bearing interest at three and a half per cent, for the education of the poor children of the parish of Wigton and Westward, viz. : £900 to the former and £600 to the latter; and directed the residue, if any, to be given in clothing to poor women. Upon the demise of the last survivor of the first trustee the money is to be placed in the funds, stocks, or other government security ; and on the death of a trustee the remainder are to elect one to fill up the number. The trustees are not to be ministers, curates, or parish clerks, either of the Established Church or of dissenters ; schoolmasters, or teachers. The benevolent donor has also left several small sums, vai-ying from 2s. to 8s. a week, to some of his old workmen. CHUr.CHES, CHAPELS, AND SCHOOLS. St. Cuthbert's Catholic Church is a neat Gothic structure, consisting of nave, chancel, and one transept, tlie nave being erected in 1835-6 from designs by Bo- nomi, aud the other portions in the spring of 1857, when stone mullions were inserted in all the windows, and the entire edifice otherwise much improved and ornamented, in accordance with the requirements of Catholic worship. Vestries were also added, and a neat and commodious presbytery, or priest's house, erected, which is connected with the vestry by an ornate cloister. Another cloister unites the south transept with the adjoining schools and convent. The school is in the same style as the church, and is sixty-seven feet long by eighteen broad. It is lighted by three elegant triple laucet windows at each gable, and has two doors opening on the south to the ample play ground in front. Internally as well as externally it is complete in every respect, and presents a very neat appearance. Adjoining the school is the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, a branch house of the well-known Order of Mercy, founded for the express purpose of educating youth, relieving the sick and distressed, and adminis- tering to the spiritual wants of the poor. It is the only estabUshment of the kind in Cumberiand and Westmoreland, and is the first religious house erected 278 ALLERDALE - BELOW - DERWENT WARD. in these counties since their suppression at the period of the Reformation. It is in the middle-age style of conventual architecture, and consists of.two wings of two stories high, and excellent attics, with triangular dormer windows. With the south-east transept of the church, and school on the south, and the cloister (connecting the convent with the transept) ou the west, it forms a quadrangle, embracing recrea- tion grounds of some fifty yards by forty yards. Ou the north and east sides there are ample kitchen gardens. Five ladies, from the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy at Bermondsey, Loudon, took possession of this convent on the third of September, 1857. Two of these kdies formed part of that noble band who, headed by their superioress, Mrs. Moore, went forth amid the rage of battle and the strife of cruel warfare to tend our sick and wounded soldiers on the ensanguined fields of the Crimea, and in the pestiferous hospitals of Varna and elsewhere, sharing all the dangers and suflerings of the campaign, to which some of their companions fell victims.^ The year 1858 saw the first reception of a nun in Cumberland since the time of the Reformation, when a young lady, of London, re- ceived the white veil of a novice from the hands of the Rigbt Rev. Dr. Hogarth, Bishop of Hexham, in whose diocese the Catholics of Cumberland and Westmoreland are included. From the period of the Reformation till the year 1830, the Catholics of W^igton and neighbourhood possessed no resident priest, and had to go from time to time to Carlisle to receive the sacraments, but ia the year just named the Rev. John Dowdal, a gentleman of considerable talents and attainments, and an eloquent preacher, founded a mission in the town, where he laboured zealously and successfully for several years, during which period his retired and unassuming manner, and kindness of disposition, secured the friend- ship and esteem of all parties. Mr. Dowdall was subse- quently removed to St. Patrick's Church, Manchester, and afterwards to Bolton-le-Moors, where he died, in 1848, universally beloved and regretted. Ilis successor, the Rev. Edmund Kelly, was appointed to Wigton in 1838, where he continued till 1852, when he was trans- ferred to South Shields and the Rev. Canon Nicholas Brown, the present incumbent, succeeded. Mr. Brown's 1 General Sir W. Codringlon, commander-in-chief in the Crimea, in a IcUer, requested Sir John Ila 1, chief of the medical stalF, " to assure the superioress of the Sisters of Mercy of the high estimation in which her services and those of the nurses were held by them all, founded as was tha opin upon the experience of himself and the medical ofMcers of the hospital, and of the many patients, both wounded and sick, wljo, during fuin*teeu or fifteen muiitlu past, bad been benefitted by their tare," ka. first care was to improve the education of the children of the poor, and the beneficent munificence of a good lady (Miss Aglionby, daughter of the late Major Aglionby, M.P.), whose many charities are but partially known, soon enabled him to purchase a large portion of an adjoining field, and to erect the present elegant buildings as above named. All the several buildings are of stone. The whole group, church, convent, schools and presby- tery, gardens, &c., occupying an area of little less than two acres, present a very pleasing and attractive feature ou entering the town from the east. The congregation numbers about four hundred persons. The Friends Meeting House, situated in Allonby Road, to the west of the town, is a handsome structure (if red freestone, erected in 1829, upon the site of a previous meeting house, built in 1700, and will accommodate about 500 persons. For many years previous to the erection of the old meeting house, the Society of Friends had a congregation in Wigton, but the date of its first formation cannot now be ascer- tained. The Independent Chapel, Wiiter Street, was erected in 1834, at a cost of il,900, inclusive of the adjacent burial-ground and minister's house. It is a largo commodious edifice of three stories, and contains sittings for 600 persons. The lowest story serves as a Sunday school, and also a British day school. The first cha^jel possessed by the Independent body in Wigton was erected in Market Hill in 1819, when the congregation was placed under the care of the Rev. John Walton, previous to which period they had met for worship in a school-room in Strong's Lane. Mr. Walton was succeeded by the Rev. Edward Leighton, in 1896, and he by the Rev. Jonah Reeves in 1837. Two years later the Rev. Mr. Kelsay became pastor, and in 1815 the Rev. George Young, who was suc- ceeded, in 1858, by the Rev. Henry Perfect, the pres- ent minister. The Presbyterian (United) Church is situated in Market Hill. It was erected in 1810, by the Indepen- dents, who upon the completion of their new chapel in 1834 sold it, and it is now private property, rented by the present congregation. It will seat about 300 persons. The Presbyterians first formed a congregation in Wigton, about seventy years ago, and had for their first minister the Rev. Mr. Davis, holding their meet- ings in Meeting House Lane, from which they removed to their present place of worship. The congregation was for some time without any regular minister. Tha flev. Alexander Leitch has been minister lor the last few years. The Wesleyan Chapel is a plain but substantial >VIGTON PARISH. 279 building in George Street, erected by subscription in 1828, at a cost of £600, and contains SOD sittings. This body was established about the year 1819, when they occupied the school-room in Strong's Lane, after the Independents bad left it. Afterwards they re- moved to Meeting House Lane, where they continued to assemble for worship till the erection of their pre- sent chapel — Rev. Edward C. Woolmer, minister. The Primitive Methodists formed a small congre- gation in this town for a short time, but they have long since ceased to exist, as such. MECHANICS' IHSTITUTION, &C. Wigton Mechanics' Institution, situated in Allouby Eoad, is a handsome building, erected in 1850, from designs furnished by the late Mr. John Walker and Mr. W. Henderson, at a cost of about j£400. It is of red freestone, with a portico in front, above which is a group of three figures, the centre one representing Fame. The institution comprises first and second- class reading-rooms, and a library ; in the first-class reading-room there is a bust of the late Sir Ro- bert Grairke, who was bom in a small cottage which formerly stood opposite the site of the institution. The bust and pedestal of scagliola were presented to the members by Mr. Sydney Smirke, a son of the cele- brated painter. Both reading-rooms are well supplied with newspapers and periodicals, &e., and are orna- mented with maps, globes, &c., which have, at various times, been presented to the institution. The library occupies a room to the rear of the first-class reading- room, and comprises upwards of 1,400 volumes in the various departments of literature, science, and art. The subscription to the library and reading-rooms is one guinea per annum, to the library alone eight shillings — the subscribers to the latter are principally ladies. Me- chanics are admitted for a subscription of eight shillings per annum to the library and second-class reading-room. The affairs of the institution are managed by a com- mittee of thirteen members, who are chosen annually. Lectures are frequently given in connection with the institution. A working men's reading-room was established iu the year 1858 in a room on Market Hill. The National School, situated in the South End, is a plain stone building, with girls' school over the boys', conducted by master and mistress and two pupil teachers. Average attendance, 120 boys and 80 giris. In addition to the school mentioned at page 273, and the Catholic schools, and National school just mentioned, there are several other schools ; well-attended Sunday schools are attached to all the places of worship in the CEIIETEET. Wigton Cemetery is handsomely situated about a mile north-west from the town. It was opened on the 1st of August, 1855, and consecrated by the present bishop of Carlisle on the 11th of July 1856. The ground, which covers an area of five acres, was given by the late Miss Matthews, of Wigton Hall ; £2,000 was expended upon it previous to its being used for inter- ments. It is divided into three parts or divisions, one of which is reserved to the members of the Church of England, another for Catholics, and the third for Nonconformists. There are two chapels, situated to the right and left of the entrance, with a house for the registrar ; these are of red freestone. A wall seven feet high encloses the entire cemetery, with the exception of the space between the chapel of the Church of England and the registrar's house, which is palisaded. GAS WOEKS. The Gas Works,, situated in Tenters Field, was erected in 1831, by a company of shareholders of £10 each. It was rebuilt and considerably enlarged in 1854, at a cost of £3,000, twelve retorts being added, and room made for fifteen more, in all twenty-seven. There are two gasometers, one of which is capable of containing 8,000, and the other 2,500 cubic feet. The gas is sold to consumers at six shillings per thousand cubic feet. The annual consumption is about 2,500,000 cubic feet. The affairs of the company are managed by a committee of resident gentlemen ; and the esti- mated value of the works is now about £5,000. rOOIl LAW UNION. The Poor-law Union is divided into three sub-districts, viz., Wigton, comprising Thursby, Crofton, Parton and Micklethwaite, Oughterby, Kirkbampton, Little Bamp- ton, Fingland, Drumburgh, Bowness, Anthorn, Kirk- bride, Wampool, Aikton, Biglands and Gamblesby, Wiggonby, Oulton, Wigton, Woodside, Waverton and Holme-east A^'aver ; Abbey Holme, embracing Holme St. Cuthbert, Abbey Holme, Dundraw and Kelsick, Blencogo, Bromfield, Langrigg and Mealrigg, West Newtou and AUonby, Hayton and Melay, Aspatria and Brayton, Blenncrhasset and Kirkland, Torpenhow, and Whitrigg, and Allhallows ; Caldbeck, including High Bolton, Low Bolton, Stoueraise, Woodside, Rosley, Brocklebank, Low Sebergham, High Sebergham, Low Caldbeck, High Caldbeck, Caldbeck Haltcliff, Low Ireby, High Ireby, and Uldale. The ai-ea of the union is 176,529 acres.^ Its population in 1851 was 23,661, 1 This area, given from tlie census returns, includes vrater, or the sea coast, the aiea, according to the return furnished hy the clerk to the guardians is 138,210. 280 ALLERDALE- BELOW- DERWENT WARD. of whom 11,781 were males, and 11,880 females. The number of inhabited houses at the same period was 4,718, of uniuliabited 3'31, and there were 29 building. The rateable value of the union amounts to £110,174. The following statement of accounts shows the receipts and expenditure for the year ending 23nd March, 1858. The receipts were, from poor-rates, £7,461 Is.; in aid of poor-rate, £203 15s.: total, £7,66-3 16s. The expen- diture amounted to the following : — For in-maintenance, £559 9s. 3|d.; out-relief, £1,901 6s. 6d.; maintenance of lunatics in asylums, £360 17s.; e-xtra medical fees, £13 5s.; vaccination fees, £53 lis.; registration fees, £73; county rates, £191 ISs. 4d.; building expenses (instalment and interest of loan), £155 7s. 3d.; lunatic medical visits, £5 ; conveyance of lunatics to and from asylum, school fees, &c., £19 6s. lid. ; common charges, including salaries, rations, relief of irremovable poor, in-door and out-door, &c., £2,148 17s. S^d.: total, £5,480 13s. 7Jd. E.xpeuditure of year ending March, 1857, £5,259 9s. 0|d.; increase, £221 4s. 6*d. Num- ber of paupers reheved in the union on the 1st of January, 1858, in-door, 134; out-door, 910: total, 1,044. Average weekly cost per head of in-door paupers, 23. 5d. Aikhead, a small hamlet in Wigton township, about one and a half miles west-by-north of that town, was long the residence of John Rooke, Esq., one of the last of the English Neptunian geologists. He was author of a Geology of the Lake District, and many papers on his favourite science. He died in 1856, and is interred in the Cemetery at Wigton. Dockray is another hamlet, one and a half miles east- by-north of Wigton, near the confluence of the Wiza and Wampool. It contains the old farm-house called Dockray Hall. Moorhouse hamlet is two miles north of Wigton, where there is a large farm-house called Moorhouse Hall. Standing Stones is another small hamlet, occupying an elevated situation above the railway station, half a mile north of Wigton. The rateable value of this township is £1,840. The number of its inhabitants in 1801 was 291 ; in 18)1, 321 : in 1821, 336; in 1831, 379; in 1841, 406 ; and in 1851, 421. The Maryport and Carlisle railway runs through the township. A great portion of the laud here consists of a kind of moss, producing nothing but peat. Martin Tarn, a small lake about a mile in circumference, is situated in this township. The manor of Oultou was anciently held by the Dalstons, and we learn from an inqusition taken in 1578, that "John Dalston, Esq., holdeth the other half of Kirkbride, and the hamlet of Ulton (as is afore- noted), which were parcel of the said barony (Wigton) in demesne, and sold by King Henry VIII. to Thomas Dalston, father of the said John Dalston, and were of the yearly rent of over and besides the free rents of certain freeholders in Ulton aforesaid, amounting to the sum of 33s. 4d. per annum, holden of the said barony, which rents and services of the said freeholders the said John Dalston claimeth and detaineth by colour of his said letters patent (quo pire ignor.) The rents and services of which freeholders hereafter followeth : Robert Dalston holdeth a tenement and two o.xgangs of land, late William Morpith's, by fealtie, suit of court, and moult, to the 13th moult, rendering per an. 10s. John Kay holdeth a tenement called Gamsey land, with the same service and moult., and renders per an. 9s. 2d. Robert Vause holdeth certain tenements and lands by like services and moult., and renders per an. 4s. 6d. John Thompson holdeth two tenements and certain lands, with other appurtenances, by like services and moult., and renders per an. 5s. Robert Dalston holdeth there a parcel of meadow, sometime John Spar- row's, by the Uke services as aforesaid, 9d. The same Robert holdeth another parcel of meadow, late Thomas Pattiuson's, by like services, and renders per an. 9d. John Thompson holdeth there three acres of land, late the lands of John Thompson, by like services, rendering Is. 4d. Cuthbert Grainger and Nicholas Allison holdeth there one parcel of meadow, late Nicholas Brown's, by like services, rendering 6d. The heirs of Robert or Thomas Leche, holdeth there three acres of meadow, by like services, and renders per annum Is. 4d." At the same time " Richard Barwis holdeth four acres of demaine in Ulton, rendering 5s. 4d." After the extinction of the Dalston famUy, this manor was sold to — Watson, Esq., from whom it came to William Taylor, Esq., of Greenwich, and is now held by John Taylor, Esq., who holds customary courts from time to time. The landowners of the township are Messrs. John Barnes, Daniel Barnes, William Cape, H. J. Percy, John Todd, John Gibson, John Lightfoot, John M. Watson, John Taylor, John Ismay, and a few other small owners. The village of Oulton is pleasantly situated, two miles north-by-west of Wigton, and contains a small chapel, erected by the Baptists in 1722, but rebuilt in 1832. It is now used on week nights by the vicar of Wigton. Eskrigg, Lawrence Holme, Tarnrigg, and Wedholme Hill, are hamlets in this township, situated from one to two miles north and north-west of Oulton village. WIGTOX PARISH. 281 WAVERTOS. The population of Waverton township in 1801 was 375; in 1811, 409; in 1831, 477; in 1831, 487; in 1841, 543; and in 1851, 545. Its rateable value is £4,548. The Maryport and Carlisle railway runs through the township. We possess no information relating to Waverton previous to 1578, in which year a survey of the barony of Wigton was made, and from it we transcribe the following particulars: "Leonard Dykes holdeth the foui-th part of the town or manor of Waverton of the said Earl (Northumberland) by the third part of a knight's fee, and suit of court at Wigton, from three weeks to three weeks, comage, seawake, puture of the Serjeants, and for free rent yearly Ss. 8d. The said Leonard Dykes holdeth certain other lands there of another fouith part of the said town, by like services, and payeth for free rent by year 2s. 8d. The said Leonard holdeth a pai-cel of ground there called the Parke, by homage, fealtie, &c., rendering per an. Is. 4d. The said Leonard holdeth there two acres of land by homage, fealtie, suit of court &c., and renders per an. Is. William Osmotherly holdeth a third part of a fourth part of Waverton afore- said, by the twelfth part of a knight's fee, and other services as is aforesaid, rendering per annum 3Jd. The heirs of William Pennington holdeth another third of a fourth part of Waverton aforesaid, by like ser^'ices, and renders Sjd. Anthony Curwen holdeth another third part of a fourth part of Waverton aforesaid, by like services, rendering 3Jd. John Blennerhasset holdeth in Waverton aforesaid one tenement, sometime William Bowett's, and late the lands of Pvoger Dent, by the like serrices, rendering per an. 3s. The heirs of Roger Lathes now holdeth the fourth part of Waverton by like service as is aforesaid, and render per an. Ss. Id. William Osmotherly holdeth four acres of land there in Waverton, called the Marshalftat, by the like service as is aforesaid, and renders per an. Is. 4d. Robert Vaux holdeth one acre of land in Waverton by fealtie, suit of couit, and other services aforesaid, and renders per annum 8d. John Plumer holdeth certain land and tenements in Waverton at Aikbank, by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, rendering ." A few pages further we find that "the tenants of the town of Waverton pay yeariy to the lord for cornage 13s. 4d., seawake 2s., and for turnsilver 7s. Cd. : in toto per annum 22s. lOd." The manorial rights of Waverton are now vested in General Wyndham as lord paramount of the barony of Wigton. The landowners are the Rev. WiUian Hewson, Messrs. Charies Ray, John Stamper, John T. Jefferson, Joseph Barnes, Pattison Hayton, John Dixon, William Manduel, Richard HaU, John JMartindale, the trustees of the late John TifEin, Robert Glaister, Thomas Dand, John Swan, the trustees of the late Christopher Gloag, John Dand, — Bragg, Messrs. TifRn ; and Mrs. Donald and Miss Messenger. The village of Waverton occupies a pleasant situation two miles south-west of Wigton. Aikbank, a hamlet a mile west from Wigton, was long the residence of Joseph Rooke, who was interred here in his own garden. Lesson, or Lasson's Hall, originally Lassell's Hall, from one of its remote pro- prietors, is described as being an independent manor in the successive possession of the Waverton, Multon, Mulcaster, or Pennington families. It was purchased of the latter by the Dalstons, having from that time been esteemed parcel of the manor of Oulton, which was enfranchised by Sir George Dalston, Bart, in 1747. Lesson Hall is a neat village, two and a haK miles west-by-north of AVigton, where Chai-les Ray, Esq., has a commodious residence. The other hamlets are Barugh, Blaithwaite (High and Low), Parkgate, Woodrow, from two to three miles south-west of AVigton. Hawkrigg House is the resi- dence of John T. Jefferson, Esq. ; Blaithwate House the residence of Mrs. Donald. WOODSIDE. The rateable value of this township is £3,270. In 1801 it contained 238 inhabitants; in 1811, 344; in 1821,587; in 1831, 750; in 1841, 743; and in 1851, 095. It is intersected by the Maryport and Carhsle railway. From the survey quoted in our notice of Waverton township we derive the following information relating to Woodside in 1578 : — " William Osmortherley holdeth at Lownthwaite four tenements, late in the tenures of the said William, 8s. Thomas Calvert, 3s. 6d. ; Thomas West and Thomas Calvert, lis. 8d.; and one piece of land there late in the tenure of Thomas Wilkinson, 2s., by fealtie and suit of court, and renders per annum, at the feasts of St. Slartin and Pentecost, 25s. 2d." In the margin is noted, in a different hand, "Wm. Calvert, lis. 2d.; Stubbs, 16s. 2d." The survey continues " John Piadchffe holdeth four tenements, with the appurtenances at Lownthwate, by fealtie and suit of court, and payeth at the feasts aforesaid, per annum, IDs. 4d. Anthony Barwis holdeth certain acres of land there in Kayrigg, by fealtie and suit of court, and paieth at the said feasts Is. Gd. John Aylne holdeth one acre of land at Kayrigg aforesaid, by like services, and paieth by year, ut supra, 9d. Edward Adamson holdeth one acre of land there by like service, and payeth by year, at the feasts aforesaid, 9d. The same Edward holdeth there a tenement and three acres of land by like service, 382 ALLEEDALE-BEIOW-DERWENT WARD. and renders per aninim, at the feasts aforesaid, 2s. lid. John Thompson holdeth at Briggbank a tenement and three acres of land, late John Dayes', by like service, and renders per annum, at the said feasts, 3s. John Timperon and Edward Bai-wis holdeth there two messuages and five acres of land, late John Dayes' aforesaid, by hke services, rendering at the said feasts 10s." The manorial rights of this township, like those of Waverton, are vested in General Wyndham. The landowners are Sir Wastel Brisco, Bart. ; F. L. B. Dykes, Esq.; John Taylor, Esq.; Wm. Banks, Esq., the trus- stees of Brookfield Academy ; Messrs. John Martindale, George Studholme, Joseph Carruthers, Joseph Barnes, Thomas Hay ton, John Richardson, the trustees of the late John Robinson, John Spencer, the Misses Stock- dale, Miss Aglionby, and Jane Cowan. The hamlet of Kirkland, one mile east ; Lownthwaite (High and Low), one mile south-by-west, and Moor- thwaite, two miles east of Wigton, are in this township. High Moor House, the seat of W. Banks, Esq., stands on a gentle eminence commanding an extensive prospect of the surrounding country, about half a mile south of Wigton. Brookfield Academy, belonging to the Society of Friends, occupies a substantial building in this town- ship, about a mile west from AVigton, erected in 1826, at a cost, inclusive of the purchase of land and master's house, of £6,100. The institution was previously at High Moor House. The number of pupils is limited to thirty boys and thirty girls, from the age of eight to fifteen years. Children attending this school from any part of Cumberland are taught partly at the expense of the society should they require such assistance. This establishment is supported partly by subscription, and the interest of endowments valued at £13,000. The number of scholars taught in the school since its com- mencement in 1815, amounts to 761. Among the eminent natives of the parish of Wigton we may mention Mr. Ewan Clarke, the Cumberland poet ; R. Smirke, Esq., R.A., the eminent historical painter ; George Barnes, a celebrated mathematician : and Joseph Rooke, who, from the rank of a poor weaver, became, self-taught, a mathematician and philosopher, excelling also in music, optics, and botany. Jn'toi^nt Mm^. Debwent Waed is bounded on the north by Allerdale-below-Derwent, on the north-west by the Irish sea, on the west by AUerdale-above-Derwent, on the south by Bootle Ward, and on the south-east and east by Westmoreland and Leath Ward. It is about twenty-two miles in length by eleven in breadth, and contains the market towns of Maryport, Cockermouth, and Keswick. This ward, formed for magisterial purposes in 1833, and for U.xes in 1843, is a highly picturesque and interestiug district, embracing, as it does, every variety of scenery which mouatain and valley, lake and river, can impart to the landscape. It contains the lakes of Derwontwater, Bassenthwaite, Wast- water, Buttermere, Thirlmere, Crummock, and Loweswater; and the rivers Derwent, Wythbui-n, Marron, and several smaller streams, whose waters augment the various rivers and lakes. Coal, limestone, and plumbago are the chief mineral productions. Derwent Ward comprises the parishes of Bassenthwaite, Bridekirk, Brigham (including Cockerinouth,) Cammerton, Cross Cannonby (including Maryport), Crosthwaite (including Keswick), Dean, Dear- ham, Flimby, Gilcru.f, Isell, and Plumbland, and the chapelry of Loweswater. BASSENTHWAITE PARISH. This parish is bounded by the parishes of Crosthwaite, Isell, Torpenhow, Ireby, Uldale, and Caldbeck. It com- prises no dependant townships, but is divided into the two constablewicks of Highside, and Hawes or Lowside, and its area is 0,930 acres ; the rateable value d£3,109 19s. lOd. whose posterity assumed the name of De Bassenthwaite. The last heir male of this family was Sir Adam de Bassenthwaite, who died in the reign of the second Edward, and left two daughters, co-heiresses, the elder of whom having married twice, settled her moiety of the manor, that called Low Bassenthwaite, upon her second husband, one of the Lawsons of Northumber- land, in whose posterity it has since continued, and is now held by Sir Wilfred Lawson, Bart. The other co-heh'ess married one of the Martuidale family, whose descendant having been attainted of treason, it was granted by the crown to the Earl of Derby. A survey of the barony of Allerdale, taken in 1578, informs us that " Henry Earl of Derbie holdeth the moiety of the manor of Bassinthwaite, by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, from three weeks to three weeks, and payeth yearly for cornage, Serjeant's food, seawake, and turn- silver, 4s. 7d. Richard Irton, Esq., holdeth the other moiety of the manor aforesaid, by like service, and The population, which is scattered over the parish, numbered in 180], 450; in 181], 497; in 1821, 537; in 1831, 549; in 1841, 536; and in 1851, 557. Agri- culture is the principal employment. The Eobin Hood mine, which produced antimony, has been tried several times, by various parties, but without effect, the quan- tity obtained not being sufficient to pay the cost in- curred. The mine has been laid up for the last twelve years. Cockermouth and Keswick are the markets attended. The parish includes the beautiful lake from which it takes its name, as also Skiddaw and other mountains, which will be found described at page 48. The soil on the north-west part of the parish is of a wet and sterile nature, but since the enclosure of the commons, it has been much improved. Near the moun- tains and lake it is mostly high and gravelly — in some parts loamy, but in general fertile. The manor of Bassenthwaite was given by Alan, the second lord of Allerdale, to his bastard brother, Gospatric, 284 DEEWENT WARD. payeth yearly for cornage, seawake, turn-silver, and Serjeant's food, 4s. 7d." In 1714 this estate, called the manor of High Bassenthwaite, passed in marriage with Henrietta Stanley to John Lord Ashburnham, •who, in the following year, sold it in parcels to the tenants for the sum of £1,825. The manorial rights and privileges of the manor are consequently vested in Sir Wilfred Lawsou, Bart., and the landowners; but General Wyndham, who is lord paramount, is proprietor of the fine lake of Bassenthwaite, and has the sole right of navigation and the whole fishery, with the exception of three draughts, called Ewen Bridge, Stone AVall, and Elars Stile, in which Sir H. E. Vane, Bart., has a right to fish. General Wyndham receives a quit-rent of J£3 4s. lOd. from the parish. The principal landowners are Sur Henry Ealph Vane, Bart. ; Thomas Story Spedding, Esq. ; Abraham Fisher, Esq. ; and Messrs. John Eooke, John Ewart, Mrs. Smith, and others. This parish possesses no village of its own name. The commons were enclosed in 1771, in pursuance of an act passed in the previous year. THE CnUHCH. The parish church, dedicated to St. Bridget, is an ancient structure, in Highside Constahlewick, near the margin of the lake, about five miles north-north-west of Keswick. It is of the transition period between the Early EngUsh and Decorated styles, and consists of nave, aisle, chancel, north porch, and turret, with one bell. There is an ancient brass in the south aisle and the Vane family has a tablet in the chancel. It was formerly rectorial, and was given to the Abbey of Jed- worth by AValtheof, son of Gospatric, and appropriated to that monastery. The dean and chapter of Carhsle are now the appropriators, and patrons of the perpetual curacy, which is worth about £160 per annum. The tithes were commuted at the period of the enclosure of the commons in 1771, when 215 acres were allotted to the incumbent of the parish in lieu of all tithes. There are also about eleven acres of glebe. A lec- tureship was founded in this church in the beginning of the seventeenth century, by Matthew Cape, a mer- chant of Carlisle, who endowed it with a lease of the tithe of corn and hay in Levington, or Linton Holme, and Harper Hill. The parish register commences in 1574. Incumbents. — Joseph Sim, 1704; John Hewer, 1793; A. Turner, 1800; John Dunlinson, 1803; John Dodgson, 1803; WUliam SeweU, 1805; John Hallifax, 1807; John Brown, 1814; John Monkhouse, 1824 ; John Barnes, 1S35 ; EJward B. Wch- Bter, 1853; Tliomas Simpson, 1855; Eussel Shurlock, 1856. The parsonage house is a substantial stone building, situated on the Keswick road, between the church and Chapel. It was erected in 1858, at a cost of £800, of which £200 was a benefaction from Queen Anne's Bounty, the remainder being raised by subscription. The school is situated close to the chapel, and is entirely supported by subscriptions and the donations of a few gentlemen, who contribute £25 per annum for that purpose. The average attendance is about forty. A small estate appears to have been left for the use of the poor of this parish, but by whom, or at what time, is unknown. It consists of a close of about four acres of laud in the paiish of Crosthwaite, with an aUottment of common, and two closes in Bassenthwaite, which bring in about £14 a year. There is also a house, an orchard, about four acres of land, and about one acre of woodland, supposed to have been left for the use of the parish clerk; for the time being, by one Mr. Grave, who was himself formerly clerk of this parish. Hawes is a small village in this parish, in the vicinity of Hawesbeck, six and a half miles north-by- west of Keswick. A feast, with sports, is held here in the early part of August, which is attended by a con- siderable number of persons. Chapel is another small village, or hamlet, near the Chapel-beck, in Lowside constahlewick, sis miles north- by-west of Keswick, where there is a chapel-of ease to the parish church, and a school. Armathwaite Hall, the seat of Sir H. E. Vane, Bart.,' occupies a delightful situation at the northern extremity of the lake, of which it commands a fine view, eight and a half miles north -north -east of Keswick. It is sur- rounded with beautiful grounds, and when viewed from the lake, with its trees, single or in clumps, spread over the sloping lawns, the rising grounds behind enrobed with woods, adds very much to the gratification of the tourist. Mirehouse, the seat and property of Thomas Story Spedding, Esq., is a beautiful mansion, situated between Skiddaw and the lake. There are two corn-mills in this parish. iFor genealogy of this family see Hutton paiish, LcatU ward, at a subsequent page. BRIDEKIRK PARISH. 285 BRIDEKIRK PARISH. Bbidekirk parish extends along the Derweut, which separates it from Brigham, and is about seven and a half miles long. It is bounded on the other side by the parishes of Camerton, FUmby, Dearham, Gilcrux, and Isell ; and comprises the townships of Bridekirk, Broughtou Great, Broughton Little, Dovenby, Papcastle and Goat, Kibton, and Tallantire. BRIDEKIRK. The area of this township is 916 acres, and its rate- able value £960. Its population in 1801 was 94 ; in 1811, 115; in 1821, 144; m 1831, 111; in 1841, 181 ; and in 1851, 113. The inhabitants, who attend the Cockermouth market, are principally collected in the village of Bridekirk ; there are also a few scattered houses. Agriculturo is the only employment. The manors of Bridekirk and Appleton, with the church of Bridekirk, were given by Waltheof, first lord of AUerdale, to Gisborne priory, in Yorkshire, which grant was confirmed by Alan, son of Waltheof, and after- wards by two several charters by Alice de Komely for the health of her soul, and the souls of her father and mother, and all her ancestors and successors, and her husbands, GUbcrt Pypard and Robert de Courtney, and the same were confirmed and appropriated to the mon- astery by Ralph de Irton, bishop of Carhsle. The manor continued to be held by the priory of Gisborne, till the dissolution of the religious houses by Henry VIII., who, by letters patent, in the thirty-fifth year of his reign, granted it to Henry Tolson, to be held in capite by the twentieth part of one knight's fee and 26s. yearly. The manor has long been enfranchised, and pays the fee-farm rent of 26s. to the crown. The lands here are aU freehold. The principal landowners are Mrs. Dykes, Major Andrew Green Thompson, John Cowley Fisher, and — Dawson, Esqs. The village of Bridekirk is about two miles north of Cockermouth. THE CHURCH. The church, dedicated to St. Bridget, is a very ancient structure, the tower of which was rebuilt about the year 1720, at which time several of the windows were enlarged. It contains a carved font which, the Messrs. Lysons say, is " the best entitled to notice in this county, and probably the most curious one in the king- dom." The sides of this rehc of antiquity are all enriched with sculptures in bas-relief, the style of which alone, independent of a Eunic inscription which it bears, clearly indicates it to be the work of an age antecedent to the Norman Conquest. The south side of the font contains the inscription, which was read by Bishop Xicolson thus— "Er Ekard ban men egrocten, and to dis men red wer Taner men brogten;" which was interpreted "Here Ekard was converted, and to this man's example was the Danes brought." The late Mr. Kemble, in the Archceologia, vol. xxviii., supphes the following reading: — " Herigar thegn gewrohte, Utiel thegn Irmunricys gebrohte," — '•' Herigar the Thane wrought it, Utel Eormanrics Thane brought it.' " This interpretation," he adds, " I fairly confess is anything but satisfactory to myself. AU that I can claim for it is that it is Anglo-Saxon, which no explanation hitherto pubUshed is." Professor Munch has been only able to make out "... me iwrogte, and to this ... me brogte." It has been more recently read " Eicard he me iwrocte, and to dis merth gernr me brocte ;" which may be interpreted, " Richard he me wrought, and to this beauty carefully me brought." The scroll on which the inscription is cut rests ou two pUlars, one of which is clustered. Above the inscrip- tion is a scroll of vine branches, proceeding from a gro- tesque head, with the figure of a man at the opposite end, eating one of the bunches of grapes ; beneath it is introduced the figure of a sculptor, with his mallet and chisel, executing a scroll, and supposed to represent the maker of the font. In the upper part of this and the north and east sides, are introduced various grotesque animals and fohage, with a sort of cross floree on the west side. The east side bears a representation of the Baptism of Our Saviour by St. John, with the dove descending. On the west side is a circular ornament, supported by two grotesque animals, within a border of foliage. The sculpture on the lower part of the north side is supposed to refer to the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise. The benefice, as has been seen above, was granted to Gisborne Priory. After the Dissolution, the advowson of the vicarage w^s granted by Queen Mary to George Cotton and William Manne, to hold as of the manor of East Greenwich, by fealty only, and not in capite. After this peiiod we find the presentation in the Lamplugh family, from whom it has descended to Mrs. Dykes, in whom it is now vested. James I., by letters loatent, in the second year of his reign, granted to Job Gillett and William Blake, among others, the tithe of corn and grain of Little Broughton, Great Broughton, and Papcastle, to hold to them and their heirs for ever, of the kiug, as of his manor of East Greenwich, in free socage, and not in capite. DEEWENT WAED. The great tithes of Bridekirk township belong to John Cowley Fisher, Esq., of Wooclhall ; those of Great and Little Broughtou were sold several years ago to the landowners by the late Sir F. F. Vane, Bart. ; those of Dovenl)y and Papcaslle belong to Mrs. Dykes ; those of Hameshill, Ribtou, and Goat, to the Earl of Lonsdale ; and those of Tallautire to William Browne, Esq. ; the latter belonged to Gisborne Priory, and were granted by Queen Elizabeth to George Fletcher, Esq., of Tal- lantire. The present amount of tithe rent-charge for Dovenby is about £56 ; Mrs. Dykes is the owner, but a considerable portion of original award has been given in exchange for common right, at the enclosure of Dovenby and Papcastle commons in 1842. The living, valued in the King's Book at £10 8s. Od. is now worth about £240 a year, upon which there is a charge of £22 per annum, to repay the sum (£375 j borrowed from Queen Anne's Bounty for the enlargement of the vicarage. In 1839 the tithes of Dovenby were com- muted. The great tithes, which belong to Mrs. Dykes, were awarded as £ 1 08, and the vicarial to the vicar, £20. In 1820, on the enclosure of the commons, 171 acres were given to the vicar, in lieu of small tithes for Great and Little Broughtou townships. The parish registers commence in 1585. TicAEs. — Roger de Eboraco, ; Robert Urry, 1.307 ; Robert (le Wilton, 1316; John de Thwenge, 1320; William de Crathom, ; Peter de Delymgton, 1380; George EUetson, 1553; Percival Wharton, ; William Robinson, 1563; John Wheel- right, 1581; John Williamson, 1025; Nicholas Beeby, 1034; George Benson, ; Samuel Grasty, lOCO; Thomas Belman, 1664; Richard Tickell, 1680; David King, 1685; John Har- rison, 1701; John Harrison, 1720; John Bell, 1735 ; Humphrey A. Hervey, 1795; Joseph Ballantine Dykes, 1844; Joseph B. Steel, 1848; John Fothergill, 1819; James Carter, 1851. The Vicarage is a good substantial building, close to the church, and was considerably enlarged in 1851, at a cost of £375, borrowed from Queen Anne's Bounty. 'W'oodhall, in this township, formerly the seat of the Tolsons, has been much improved by J. C. Fisher, Esq. It stands in a beautiful situation, commanding a view of the windings of the Derweut, Cockermouth Castle, and the mountains in the neighbourhood of Keswick. A handsome mansion in the village of Bridekirk is the property and seat of Major A. G. Thompson. BROUGHTON CEEAT. The population of this township in 1801 was, 408; in 1811, 423; in 1821, 435; in 1831, 523; in 1841, .562; and in 1851, 019. Its rateable value is £3,371. lis. 5d., and its area, inclusive of that of Little Brough- ttm, is 2,743 acres. The Cockermouth and Workington railway skirts the south of the township. On Broughton Moor there is a coal mine, worked by the Broughton Moor Colliery Company, the property of John Harris, Esq., of Darlington. It has one shaft 50 fathoms deep, and another of about 10 fathoms. The seams of coal worked at present are the "Ten Quar- ters Seam," about 6 feet thick; and the "Canal and Metal Seam," about 25 fathoms below the former seam. These seams are of the same thickness wherever found in this part of Cumberland. The coUiery employs about 200 persons, and produces annually about 00,000 tons of coal, the whole of which is shipped at Maryport. The manor of Broughton, which includes the two townships of that name, was given by Waltheof, lord of AUerdale, in marriage with his sister, to Waltheof, son of Gilmin, whose posterity took the name of Broughton, and resided here for several generations. This family becoming extinct about the reign of Henry VI., the manor appears to have reverted to the earls of Northum- berland as lords of Allerdalo. Henry, the sixth earl, conveyed it to Sir Thomas Wharton. From a survey taken in 1578 we leam the following particulars: — " Philip Lord Wharton holds Little Broughton of the ancient inheritance of the earls of Northumberland, of the yearly value of £3 14s. 8d., granted, among other things, by Henry late Earl of Northumberland, uncle to the said earl that now is, to one Thomas Wharton, then controller of his household, to him and to his heirs male, paying therefore yearly £3 14. 8d. The tenants of the town of Little Broughtou pay yearly to the said earl for cornage, 6s. 8d. ; seawake, 8d. ; and for turnsilver, 2s. 8d, ; in toto, J Ob. The heii-s of AVilliam Eaglesfield hold certain lands in Little Broughtou by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, and render per annum 6d. Philip Lord Wharton holds Great Broughtou, being of the ancient possessions of the Earl of Northumberland, of the yearly value of £22 4s. 2d., granted, amongst other things, by Henry, late earl of Northumberland, uncle to the earl that now is, to Thomas Wharton, then con- troller of liis household, to him and his heirs male, &c., and renders £22 4s. 2d. The tenants of the said town of Great Broughtou pay yearly to the said lord in two parts divided for cornage, 13s. 4d. ; seawake, 4kd.: and for turn-silver. Is.; in toto, 14s. 8^d." It was subsequently purchased of the trustees of the Duke of Wharton, by Charles, Duke of Somerset, from whom it has descended to its present possessor, General Wyndham, who holds a court baron annually about Michaelmas at the Punch Bowl Inn in the village of Great Broughton. The tenure here is copyhold subject to a nominal charge of one penny; but on the change by death, &c., of either lord or owner a tenpenny fine is paid. The principal landowners are Mrs. Sewell, Messrs. BRTOEKIRK PAPJSH. 287 William Paisley, John Robinson, John Harris, and Isaac Sibson. The common was enclosed in 1820, in pursuance of the provisions of an act passed in 1810. In Spencer's mill-field, in this township, are the remains of an ancient chapel. The village of Great Broughton is situated on the southern acclivity of a hill above the Derwent, three miles west-by-north of Cookermouth. Here is a Wes- leyan chapel erected in 1846. Between this village and that of Little Broughton there is a chapel of ease to the parish church, opened in 1856. There is also a school, which was built in 1846, at a cost of £200, towards which government granted £70 ; the remainder being raised by subscription. It possesses an endowment of £20 19s. a year, left in 1735, by Mr. Joseph Ashley, for the education of the children of the two Broughtons. An almshouse was founded here in 1735, by the Mr. Ashley just mentioned, for " four poor persons, men or women, out of the poor of Great or Little Broughton, and if not four persons there, out of any other villages within the parish of Bridekirk," which he endowed with £8 a year. Four poor women are appointed by the trus- tees. These also share in Lord Wharton's Bible Charity. Broughton Hall, situated in the village, was, about sixty years ago, the property and residence of the Hoskins family ; it is now a farm-house, and the pro- perty of Mr. Isaac Sibson. BEOUGHTCS LITTLE. The area of this township is returned with Great Broughton. In 1801, it contained 243 inhabitants ; in 1811, 231; in 1821, 237; in '1831, 297; in 1841, 344; and in 1851, 439; who are principally collected in the village. Coal mining is the principal employ- ment; some, however, are engaged at the brick and tile works of Mr. Joseph Lucock, on Broughton Moor. The common was enclosed at the same time as that of Great Broughton, in 1820. The village of Little Broughton is about a quarter of a mile from Great Broughton. Here are a Friends meeting house, erected in 1059, and a Baptist chapel, erected in 1072 ; the Rev. John Collins is the present minister of the latter. The foundation of this congrega- tion is ascribed by tradition to the officers of Cromwell's army when engaged in the siege of Cockermouth Castle. DOVEMBT. Dovenby comprises an area of 1,886 acres, and its rateable value is £1,099 10s. Its population in 1801 was 153; in 1811, 209; in 1821,214; in 1831, 247; in 1841, 246 ; and in 1851, 261. To the north-west of this township is Dovenby Close Colliery, carried on by John Steele, Esq. The mine has one shaft, with two air shafts — the firsrt is forty-six fathoms deep. The Little Main Seam extends about 1,000 yards south-east of the shaft, and 600 north-west, and is one foot ten inches thick. Rattle Seam, which is now- worked out, e.^tends eighteen fathoms above the Little Main Seam. These seams drift in about 170 yards, and come in with a down-cast fault, and strike in with the Kendal and Nettle Seam, which is eight feet thick, but mixed with many bands. This colliery affords em- ployment to about 100 hands, and produces, on an average, when working, about 13,000 tons per annum. There are nine coke ovens, burning about thirty tons weekly. There are two rather remarkable appearances of very ancient earthworks close to Dovenby Hall and the vil- lage,— one is in the park in front of the hall, of an elliptical shape, the greater diameter being about 112 yards, the lesser about seventy-two yards. At one, or perhaps two points, in the ellipse, the line has a sort of a shoulder or bastion shape given it. There is part of a well defined fosse visible, three or four yards wide at the bottom, with the slopes well marked. The perpen- dicular height of these (from bottom of ditch to top of platform) must still, in some places, be five or six feet. There is another in a direct line west about 350 yards, in an old grass field belonging to Mrs. Dykes, called the " Guards." It is nearly circular, and about fifty- eight yards in diameter. One or two, of the same peculiar shoulder shapes as in the other, are also visible j in this. There is again a smaller circular one directly [ between these two, in the wood adjoining the hall. As i usual in these works, all three are on the edge of the I stream, no doubt for the convenience of water. All are I very near the Roman line of road, which itself, as in i other cases, might have been formed on a more ancient line. The work in the Guards is quite close to the point of junction described below of the track through the fields and the old high road. The ground is on the rise here, and the field has a remarkable appearance of foundations all over it. At a distance of about 200 yards from the hall, in the grass land around it, is the visible track of the Roman road from Glanoventa (?), Ellenborough, near Maryport, to Derventio, Papcastle. It was cut through in draining (at least the thickness that remained) at about eighteen inches or two feet from the surface. Further on, through some wood, the remains appear exposed on the surface for a short distance. This track is in a direct line with, and joins part of, the high road formeriy used between Maryport and Cock- ermouth, which is itself undoubtedly on the very line of the Roman road, as evident remains of the materials, 288 DERWENT WAED. in many places, show. At this point a deviation was made from the old Roman line iu the more modern direction of Cockerraouth, througli the adjoining village of Dovenby, and at this spot in particular, many of the immense paving stones are still lying ahout the hedges, &c. The track traceable through the fields and the old line of high road which it joins would together form a perfectly straight and direct line of communication as used by the Romans between these stations. The large boulder stones, which formed the pavement of the Eoman road, have evidently been led from the part lying near the ball, and made use of in the building of the old tower and part of the house, where they appear in the walls on removing the cement or rough -cast. The same was done generally in the construction of ancient dwellings and mediieval castles near the Roman works, the walls, &c. What was called the Old Cross, formerly stood on the common, when unenclosed, sixteen or seventeen years ago. A piece of the shaft and base was all that remained. There used to be a tradition that markets ■were held there durmg the prevalence of the plague. It is still in the same state, and was removed, on the enclosure of the common, by Mrs. Dj'kes, as lady of the manor, into a suitable situation for its security and pre- servation. In the Dovenby manor book, date 1690, mention is made of " the Old Thorn Cross on the moor," ■which, no doubt, refers to the cross in question ; the inference being that it was of a religious description, and either bore, in Roman Catholic times, a representa- tion of the Crucifixion, or only the appendages of the Passion, a crown of thorns, inscription, The crest and arms (the first erroneously given in Moidc's Heraldry of Fish as a "crayfish") have reference, no doubt, to the original location of the family, " tlie more than primeval beach" at Dykesfield, as described by Mr. Bruce in his Roman Wall. The lobster indi cates the then presence of sea, in ages past, though now far removed, and tlie dark-coloured marsh cinquefoil ("sable") would flourish in the more or less submerged low ground adjacent, which anciently gave the name " de Fcritate " to its possessors. BRIDEKIRK PARISH. 293 PAPCASTLE. The ai-oa of this township is 1,216 acres, and its rateable value j£3,G09 9s. 3d. The number of in- habitants in 1801 was Q83 ; in 1811, 311 ; in 1821, 381 ; in 1831, IGl ; in 1811, SGS ; and in 1851, 632. The inhabitants of the townships are principally located in the villages of Papcastle and Goat, the former of which contains many respectable residences. A linen thread manufactory was commenced at the Goat mill, near Cockermouth, in 1820 ; and in 1835, Messrs. Harris erected the Derwent Side Mills, also near Cockermouth, which were enlarged in 1840 to three times the former size. They now contain 11,000 spindles, and afford employment to about 750 persons. The first recorded possessor of the manor of Pap- castle, is Waltheof, lord of Allerdale, who appears to have resided here previous to his removal to Cocker- mouth. It was afterwards successively held by the Lucies, Multons, and Dacres, and on the attainder of Leonard Dacre, became vested in the crown. From a survey taken in 1578, we leam that WOliam Lord Dacre held Papcastle of the ancient possessions of the earls of Northumberland, of the yearly value of £17 2s., pur- chased of the late king, Edward Vl., to be holden of the said king by sergeantry. The same document also states that the co-heirs of Lord Dacre held Papcastle, and paid yearly for cornage, 6s. 8d. ; seawake, Is. Gd. ; and for free rent, in toto, 8s. 2d. Anthony Barwis, Esq., held one tenement at Papcastle, called Hameshill, and paid yearly for free rent, Ss. It was granted by Queen EHzabeth in 1595, to Lancelot Salkeld, Thomas Braithwaite, and Piichard Tolson, from whom it ap- pears to have been subsequently purchased by the Lamplughs, and is now possessed by Mrs. Dykes, of Dovenby. The principal landowners are Messrs. John Steel, John S. Mawson, and William Thornburn. The principal part of this manor has been enfranchised, only £3 Gs. 2Jd. of customary, or manorial rents, remaining, and including out-tenements in Bothel and Ireby, Mb Is. lOJd. Mrs. Dykes is also the owner of the great tithes, but some part has been eschanged with the landowners for common right. The remaining commutation, or awarded rent chai'ge, is d£20 8s. Gd. The township was enclosed by act of parliament, passed in 1841. The village of Papcastle occupies a pleasant and elevated situation on the north bank of the Derwent, one mile west-north-west of Cockermouth, and is said to derive its name from one Pipard, its owner, in Saxon times. On the summit of a hill hero are the traces of a Komau station or castrum, supposed to be Derventio, where a body of troops, called the Numerus Derven- tionensis, was quartered. This station is connected with that at EUenborough by a Pioman road, traces of which are still visible. A great number of coins and other interesting relics have been discovered at this place and in the neighbourhood. The castrum was subsequently the residence of the above-mentioned Waltheof, by whom it was demolished, and the materials used in the construction of Cockermouth Castle. The new road from Cockermouth is cut through a portion of the field where the castrum stood. The large edible snail (Helij; pomatia} is said to be common in the adjoining hedges, and may have been introduced by the Romans as an article of diet. Goat, a village in this township, forms the north-west suburb of Cockermouth, with which town it is connected by a stone bridge. Here are two corn mills. Derwent Bank, the seat of John Steel, Esq., is a handsome mansion, erected in 184G, on an elevation about a mile north by west of Cockermouth, overlook- ing the vale of the river from which it derives its name. CHAEITT. WhiiiHuifs Charitij.—^Slr. John Whiuuay, in 1802, bequeathed £6 a-year to the poor of this township. SlicUoit of luptastU. The family of Skelton, of Armathwaite Castle, was one of great antiquity ; and so far back as the time of Pachard II. we find by a deed dated 14th November, in the fourteenth year of that monarch's reign, that Sir Robert de Mulcastre then granted to Sir Clement de Skelton " totam terram meam a Threpland.'' Richard Skelton, Esq., son of John Skelton, Esq., of Armathwaite, and grandson of Richard Skelton, Esq., of the same place, sold the casde and estate of Armathwaite to William Sanderson, Esq., in 1712. Jlr. Skelton left a numerous issue. The Skeltons of Branthwaite Hall were a junior branch of the Skeltons of Armathwaite, derived from RiCHAP.D Seelton", who was present at Aginconrt with Henry v., and served the office of high sheriff of Cumberland. He was younger son of John de Skelton, who married m 1432 the heu-ess of the Branthwaite estates, and acquired that property, where his descendants continued to reside till about 1727. Its then possessor was Henry Skelton, Esq., of Brantliwaite Hall, general in the army, and governor of Portsmouth. This officer ■was engaged in Flanders, and also in Scotland, in 1745 ; in the former country his life was saved by his aide-de camp. Captain James Jones, who shot a dragoon as he was on the point of cutting down the general. The latter, who died 1757, did not forget this, for on the opening of his will, it was found that he left Branthwaite Hall and estate to his friend, Captain James Jones, of the 3rd Guai'ds, who then became of Branthwaite. He was son of James Jones, who descended from General John Jones, by Catherine, his wife, sister of Oliver Cromwell, and reUct of Wheatstone. Captain Jones married, 994 DERWENT WARD. 1749, Jcraima, daagliter of Colonel TuUekens, wlio camo from Holland with TOUiam Princo of Orange, and by this lady had a son, Aenoldus, and a daughter, Jemima, who married, 17C8, Chai-les, first Marquis of Cornwallis. The son, AiiNoi.DDs Jones, of the 3rd Guards, horn 1750, assumed the surname of Skelton, 1774. He married, October, 1770, Eliza- beth, daughter of William Hicks, Esq., of Whitehaven and Papcastle, and by her (with whom he acquired Papcastlc) had four sons and five daughters, I. Henbt, major 19th Lancers, sold ths Branthwaite Hall estate, 1797,to John Christian Curwen, Esq., and diedaOth August \ifS6, having had no issue by his mfe Maria, eldest dnnghti of William Betty, Esq., of Dublin, bai-rister-at-law, LL.D, II. Daniel Jones, present representative. m. Charles Cornwallis, lieut. K.N., killed in action, unmarried. IV. William, Ueut. R.N. died unmarried. I. Jemima TuUekens, married to Thomas Foster Gunter, Esq. lieut. in the army. II. Elizabeth, married to Willinm Birmingham, Esq. m. Maria, married to William Eudd, Esq. of Cockermouth. IV. Priscilla Sarah, mairied first to Edward Penruddocke, Esq of Fyfield, Wilts, and secondly to James Walker, Esq., rear- admiral, K.N. V. Mary, died onmarricd. Mr. Jones Skelton died 1782, and was succeeded by his son Daniel Jones Skelton, Esq., of Papcastle, county Cumber land, late a captain. Royal Art., born 1785 ; married, 10th De- cember, 1810, Mary Anne, daughter of Thomas Theed, Esq., oi London, and has issue, I. Henry Charles Cornwallis, H.E.I.C.S., died 28th May, 1836 II. Henbt Jones, bom 4th July, 1824, deceased. I. Anne Eliza, married, 28th February, 1844, to William Browne Ponsonby, Esq.,an officer H.E.I.C.S., who died June, 18.55, leaving issue. ii.Maria, married 1st January, 1814, to the Rev. James Barrow. incumbent of Ashford, Bakewell, nephew of Sir Bichard Fleming, Bart., and has issue. in. Mary Dorothea, married Henry Grove, Esq., formerly lieut col. 23rd Lancers, and has issue. IV. Frances, married George Hutchins Bellasis, Esq., late majo: H.E.I.C.S., and has issue. V. Sophia Henrietta. Arms. — Az., a fesse, between three fleurs-de lis, or. Creit. — A chough's head, erased, in the beak a slip of oak, ppr., fructed, gold. iS'ca^.— Papcastle. EIBTON. Thfi area of Kibton township is 500 acres, an J its rateable raluc £512. The number of its inhabitants in 1801 was 47; in 1811, 51 ; in 1821, 30; in 1831, 20; in 1811, 25; and in 1851, 19, who occupy two farm-houses and two cottages. The Cockermouth and Workington railway skirts the south of the township. The manor of Ribton belonged to a family of that name, descended from a younger son of Waltheof, son of Gilmin. It continued in possession of the Ribtou family for several generations, and, in the reign of Edward III., we find that John Ribton held it by the service of 2s. 8d. coruage, 8d. seawake, puture of the sergeants, and suit of court at Papcastle, from three weeks to three weeks. The Ribtons occur as owners as late as 1578, for in that year William Ribton, though under age, held Ribtou by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, paying yearly for cornage, Cs. 8d.; for seawake, 7^d.; and for sergeant's food, in toto, 7s. 3id. It was subsequently purchased by Thomas Lamplugh, Esq., of Beverley, in the county of York. His grand- son, Richard Lamplugh, Esq., eldest son of Richard Lamplugh, Esq., of Dovenby and Ribton, sold Ribton to Sir James Lowther, Bart., from whom it has descended to the Earl of Lonsdale, who is also proprietor of the lands in the township. There are no corn-tithes in Ribton ; the small tithes are £i 6s. Ribton Hall, a large stone building, formerly the seat of the Lamplughs and Lowthers, is now a farm- house. From an old chair found in the building, bearing date 1638, that year has been conjectured to be the time of its erection. The township is about five miles west of Cocker- mouth. TALLANTIRE. The township of Tallantire contains 1,913 acres, and its rateable value is iil,C72 7s. Cd. In 1801 it con- tained 183 inhabitants; in 1811, 213; in 1821, 244; in 1S31, 237; in 1841, 246; and in 1851, 250. The inhabitants reside partly in the village of Tallantire: their principal employment is agriculture. The manor of Tallantire was granted by Waltheof, sou of Gospatric, to Odard, son of Liulph, whose de- scendants assumed the local name, and continued to hold Tallantire tiU a short time previous to 1578; for, from a survey of the barony of Allerdale taken in that year, we learn that the heirs of John Radchffe hold Tallanture with Castlerigg and the Isle of Derwent- water by homage, fealtie, and suit of court, paying yearly for cornage, 91s. lOd.; for seawake. Is. 4d. ; for sergeant's food, turnsilver, and free rent, 2s. ; in toto, 25s. 2d. It afterwards came by purchase to the Fletchers of Cockermouth, from which family it was transferred, by marriage, to that of the Partis of New- castle. In 1776 it was purchased of Henry Hopper, Esq., devisee of Fletcher Partis, Esq., by William Browne, Esq. ; in whose family it still continues. The landowners arc William Browne, Esq. ; Messrs. John Smith, Thomas Smith, and Richard Hai-board. The tenants are all enfranchised. The township was en- closed and allotted in 1812. The village of Tallantire is three and a half miles north by west of Cocliermouth, and about a mile and a half north-west of Bridekirk. BEIGHAM PARISH. 296 grobnc nf fallanlirt fall. The family of Browne was settled at Woodball, in the parish of Caldbeck, for many generations. ■yViLLiAM Bbowne, Esq., bom 19th Sept., 1732, a younger sou of 'William Browne, Esq., of Woodhall and Orthwaitc Hall, both in this county, purchased the lordships of TaUaniire, Dovenby, and Papcastle, and served as high sheriff in the 30lh George III. He married, 23rd September, 1779, JIary, relict of Hichard Lancaster, Esq., and died in 1802, leaving a son, Wil- T.iAM, the present possessor of the estate, and three daughters, Mary Dorothea, man-ied to John Pembeiton, Esq., of Sherbum Hall, CO. Durham ; Elizabeth, married to Capt. John Ponsonby, E.N. ; and Isabella, married to John Smith, Esq. iir. Browne, on his demise, was succeeded by his son, AViixiAM Beowne, Esq., of Tallantire HaU, J.P., and D.L., high sheriff in J817, born 3rd December, 1780; married 11th October, 1803, Catherine, daughter of the late William Stewart, of Castle Stewart, co. Wigton, N.B., by his wife, the Hon. Euphemia Mackenzie, and has issue, I. William, bom 9th Jnlv, 1810, married in 1817, Isabella Midford. u. John Stewart, bom inth October, 1811. I. Catherine. II. Jane Euphemia. II. Caroline, married in 1838, to Lord Teignmonth. IV. HarriettE. artlets in pale, sa., between two (launches, of the ;d with a liou, passant, or. Arms.— Th] second, each c Cresl. — A grlfiiu's bead, vert, between two wings. Motto. — Traducere a;vum lenitur. BRIGHAM PARISH. Tms parish, which extends about twelve miles from north to south, and about nine miles from east to west, is bounded by the rivers Derwent and Marron, and by the lakes of Loweswater, Crummock, Buttermere, and Bassen- thwaite. It contains the ancient borough, parochial chapelry, and township of Cockermouth; the parochial chapelries and to7?nships of Embleton, and Lorton; the chapelries and townships of Buttermere, Mosser, Setmurthy, and Wythop ; and the townships of Brigham, Blindbothel, Eaglesfield, Greysouthen, Whinfell, and Brackenthwaite. The inhabitants attend the markets at Cockermouth. BEIGHAM. Brigham township, inclusiye of that of Eaglesfield, contains 6,066 acres; its rateable value is ^3,5122 9s. 9d. The population in 1801 was 238; in 1811, 277; in 1831, 390 ; in 1831, 508 ; in 1841, 490 ; and in 1851, 446. The inhabitants chiefly reside in the village of Brigham. They are principally engaged in agriculture, but many of the labouring classes are employed in the quarries and coal mines which adjoin this township. The limestone quarries, which are extensively worked, at Brigham Low Houses, are said to be the finest in Cum- berland. There is a small earthenware manufactory in this township. The soil here is a rich, fertile loam, and a dry gravelly clay earth; it is very productive. The Cockermouth and Workington railway runs through the township on the s(Jnth bank of the Derwent, and has a station near the church, a short distance from Brigham, and another at Broughton Cross. The river Derwent flows through part of the township ; it is spanned by a fine bridge, called Broughton Bridge, built in 1835, which unites the township of Broughton ■with that of Brigham. The manors of Brigham, Eaglesfield, and Grey- southen, were given by AVilliam de Mescbines, to Wal- theof, son of Gospatrio, who gave Brigham, together with the manors of Dean and Clifton, to Dolfin, son of Ailward, in marriage with his sister. After a few descents it was divided into moieties between the co- heirs of the Brigham family ; one moiety, after remain- ing for some time in the possession of the family of Twinham, and afterwards in that of Hercla, was for- feited on the attainder of Andi-ew de Hercla, earl of Carlisle, and given to a chantiy in the church of Brig- ham, by Thomas de Burgh, in 16th Edward H. ; this moiety, after the suppression of the religious houses, was granted to the Fletchers of Moresby, and was sold to the tenants. The other moiety was held, 8th Edward I., by Gilbert Huthwaite, from whose family it passed to the Swinburues, one of whom, John Swinburne, in Soth Henry VIII., "held a moiety of the vill of Brig- ham of the king, as of the honour of Cockermouth, by knight's service, 2s. coruage, puture of the sergeants and witnessman, with suit of court at Cockermouth from three weeks to three weeks." In 1578, the vicar of the parish church of Brigham held there one tene- ment, with the appurtenances of the Earl of Northum- berland, as of his honour of Cockermouth, by homage, fealty, suit of court, and other services. At the same date John Swinbourne, gentleman, held a moiety of the town of Brigham, and paid yearly for cornage 2s. 6d. Anthony Barwis held the other moiety by like service ; and AViUiam Walker held one tenement by fealty and suit of court, rendering per annum lis. The Swin- bumcs sold their moiety, in 1099, to the Hon. Goodwin Wharton. In 1 727 the trustees of the Duke of Whar- ton sold it to Mr. WOfrid Grisdale, after the death of 296 DEEWENT WARD. whose daughter and granddaughter it passed under his will to Mr. William Singleton, who died in 1767 ; on his death this and other estates became vested jointly in several persons under Mr. Grisdale's will, and having been divided by virtue of a commission of partition issued out of the Court of Chancery, this moiety of the manor of Brigbam was allotted to Joshua Lucock, Esq., and is now the property of his trustees. General Wyudham is lord paramount, and the tenants of this manor render suit and service at his honor courts, held at Cockennouth Castle. The principal landowners are the Earl of Lonsdale ; William Lumb, Esq.; J. E. WUson, Esq.; Mrs. Fawcett ; Messrs. J. Fawcett, and L. and F. Grave. The common was en- closed in 182], under an act of parhament passed in 2nd George IV. The village of Brigham is about two and a quarter miles west of Cockermouth. It is irregularly built, but has long been famous for the salubrity of its atmos- phere, and the longevity of its inhabitants. Middle class houses are much wanted here, and as there is plenty of lime and stone in the vicinity, and sites easily obtainable, it is not easy to explain their absence. THE CHUKCH. The church, dedicated to St. Bridget, is an ancient structure, supposed to have been erected in the eleventh century, and consists of nave, chancel, aisle, porch, and square tower; but is much in want of renovation and improvement. It is now a vicarage, but was formerly j rectorial. The advowson was conveyed by Thomas de Huthwaite to Isabel, Countess of Albermarle, in the [ reign of Henry III., and in 1439 it was appropriated I to the coUegiate church of Staindi-op, in the county ! of Durham. In 1579 the Bishop of Carlisle assumed the patronage, and in 1018 Sir Kichard Fletcher, and one Hodgson presented. The Earl of Lonsdale is the present impropriator and patron. The living, which is valued in the King's Book at £20 10s. Did., is now worth £190 per annum. When the commons j were enclosed in 1821, there were 202 acres allotted j to the Earl of Lonsdale in lieu of corn-tithes. The | parish register commences in 1.'304. , Incumbents. — John Tierson, KiCl ; John Martin, 100."); Henry Stephenson, 1074; Roger Fleming, 1705, Joseph Dixon, 1736 ; William Henry Leech, 178d ("the Rev. Pearson Simpson officiated as ornate for Mr. Leech till 182:5, when the Rev. William Henry Leecli, jun., officiated as curate for his father up to the latter's death in 1834); John Wordsworth, 1834. The Vicarage is a commodious house, near the church, erected in 1847, by the Cockermouth and Workington Railway Company, who purchased the site of the old vicarage. Brigham Parochial School, situated to the south-east of the village, is a small stone building, capable of accommodating about forty-five children, the average number in attendance. At the enclosure of the com- mons in 1821 the school received an allotment of two acres, which are now let for £3 a year. The vicar and churchwardens for the time being are trustees. Brigham Sunday-school, a small building at the church gates, was erected in 1839. A rich pasture field near the church, known by the name of Chantry, contains a fine spring, and a mound supposed by some to cover the ruins of some ancient religious edifice. The Wesleyans have a chapel in the village, which was erected in 1856, at a cost of £120, and is the first dissenting place of worship that has been built in the township. It is a small stone structure, capable of seat- ing upwards of one hundred persons. For thhty years previous to the erection of this chapel the congregation met at a house in the village. Fitz House, within about half a mile of Cocker- mouth, is the property of Humphrey Senhouse, Esq. CHARITIES. Susannah Slater's Charity. — About the year 1711 Susannah Slater left £100 to the parish of Brigham. The Charity Commissioners inform us that it is under- stood in the parish that on the death of Mrs. Slater, £55, being a moiety of the principal, with one year's interest thereon, was distributed by the then vicar. The remauiing £50 has been secured on the toUs of the road between Cockermouth and Workington. Such parts of the parish as formed distinct chapelries at the time this legacy was left, and were thus separated from the rest of the parish of Brigham, have been considered as not having been intended to partake of the benefit of this charity. The interest paid upon the £50 above- mentioned, amounting annually to £2, has accordingly been given away on the 14th of February yearly, by the churchwardens of the following divisions, viz., of Brigham, Greysouthen, Eaglesfield, Mosser, Blind- bothel, and AVhinfell, amongst poor persons of their divisions who receive no parochial rehef. Sawrcy's Charity. — Myles Sam-ey, by will dated 17th March, 1774, bequeathed £400, upon trust, to apply the yearly dividends amongst eight poor widows of the Church of England, not receiving parochial relief. The trustees of this charity, in 1770, purchased £500 stock. New South Sea Annuities, out of the dividends of which, amounting to £15, there is given to each of eight poor and aged women £7 16s. Od. ; the remaining sum is expended in procuring the dividends and other charges. Brown's Charity. — Frances Brown, in 1770, left £10 ERIGHAM PARISH. 297 to the poor of the township of Brigham. This money is invested at four per cent., and the interest, amounting to 8s., is distributed by the churchwardens amongst poor persons of the township not receiving parochial relief. John Askew, a native of this township, is the author of a Voyage to Australia and New Zealand, a work which gives an interesting account of those far-off lands at a time when the utmost excitement prevailed, owing to the discovery of the Australian gold fields. BLINDBOTHEr,. The area of this township is 1,915 acres, and its rateable value £871. The number of inhabitants in 1801 was 82; in .1811, 06; in 1821, 112; in 1831, 106; in 1841, 100; and in 1831, 128. Agriculture is the only employment of the inhabitants, who are scattered over the township. The manorial rights of the commons are vested in General Wyudham, who is also lord para- mount of the ancient land, which is freehold, and sub- ject only to a peppercorn rent. In 1578 the following persons occur as freeholders here: — William Fawick, William Fearon, John Fletcher, Robert Yoward, the heirs of Cuthbert Nicholson, John Nicholson, Miles Pearson, the heira of Matthew Addison, Thomas Head, Christopher Wilkinson, and John Fearon. The land- owners at present (1858) are the trustees of the late — Timperon, Esq. ; Mrs. Senhouse ; Messrs. John Nicholson, William Paisley, Fletcher Norman, Thomas Loathes, Isaac Nicholson, and a few small proprietors. The township was enclosed in 1818, in pursuance of the provisions of an act of parliament passed in 1812, when twenty acres of land were awarded for the educa- tion of the children of the poor of this and Eaglesfield township. The Earl of Lonsdale received 264 acres in lieu of tithes for the same townships. Blindbothel, where the school is situated, is about two and a half miles south of Cockermouth. CHARITY. School. — The land awarded to the school at the enclosure of the commons as above mentioned, pro- duces now about £16 per annum, which is paid over to the schoolmaster, who takes all the children of Eaglesfield and Blindbothel at a small quarterage, as fixed by the trustees. The master is allowed to take children from other townships on his own terms. He has upon an average between sLxty and seventy children in the school. At a place called Green Trees, in this township, James Dickinson, one of the earliest propagators of the doc- trines of the Society of Friends, was bom in 1657. EAGLESFIELD. The area of the township of Eaglesfield is returned with that of Brigham ; its rateable value is £1,332 2s. 2d. In 1801, it contained 310 inhabitants ; in 1811, 333 ; in 1821, 405 ; in 1831, 411; in 1841, 371 ; and in 1851, 309. The population, whose employment is agriculture, are chiefly located in the village, and attend the markets at Cockermouth. A paved Pioman way, seven yards in width, has been discovered at several places in this township, leading from north to south ; and in removing the surface for the purpose of quarrying the limestone which abounds here, several human bones, teeth, and instruments of war have been found from time to time, at a place called Endlaw, from which circumstance, it is supposed to have been the site of a Pioman station. The manor of Eaglesfield was given by William de Meschines to Waltheof, son of Gospatric. It afterwards came into the possession of a family who took the local name, one of whom, Piobert Eaglesfield, was confessor to Philippa, queen of Edward III., and founder of